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Keratin‐based particles for protection and restoration of hair properties
Abstract
Objective
Human hair is an element with unquestionable relevance in society both for women and men. Therefore, it is of great importance to develop new cosmetic products for hair care capable to restore and improve hair's characteristics. Here we explore the potential of keratin‐based particles in the protection and recovery of hair mechanical properties and thermal stability.
Methods
Keratin‐based particles were obtained by high pressure homogenization (HPH) using keratin and silk fibroin. The particles were characterized regarding size, superficial charge and polydispersity index. Their safety to cells was assessed using human skin keratinocytes. Virgin and over‐bleached Asian hair were treated with eight keratin‐based formulations. The effect of particles on hair's mechanical properties was evaluated in terms of stiffness and tensile strength. The impact of treatments in hair thermal performance was studied using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC).
Results
Keratin‐based particles were capable to recover and/or improve the mechanical properties of virgin and over‐bleached hair. Virgin hair treated with K80SF20P particles presented an improvement of the mechanical properties around 40%. An increase in keratin α‐helix denaturation enthalpy and in surface smoothness for both types of hair was also verified after treatment. These particles demonstrated stability over time and proved to be safe when tested in human keratinocytes.
Conclusion
The keratin‐based particles here presented have the potential to be incorporated in the development of new and effective hair care cosmetic formulations.
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... Hair represents an essential component in terms of a person's physical appearance, with a high social impact on both women and men. For this reason, to make it as visually pleasing as possible, the hair is often subjected to thermal or chemical treatments affecting its structure (Tinoco et al., 2018). ...
... Keratin is a protein found in the structure of the hair and is directly involved in maintaining its resistance, flexibility, and durability by ensuring a proper degree of hydration and a shiny appearance (Basit et al., 2018, Tinoco et al., 2018. Collagen, as essential protein for the human body, is also found in the connective tissue surrounding hair follicle. ...
... To incorporate proteins with role in hair regeneration (keratin, collagen) into an emulsion component, they must be soluble in water and have a reduced ability to aggregate the peptides in its structure (Dănilă et al., 2019b). Thus, the use of protein hydrolysates in the formulation of cosmetic products is indicated due to their ability to prevent damage to the hair strand or to repair the already damaged one (Tinoco et al., 2018, Dănilă et al., 2020. ...
The study aimed to develop and characterize some O/W emulsions, designed as nourishing hair masks. The cosmetic formulations based on collagen hydrolysate, keratin, and natural ingredients (essential and vegetable oils) were organoleptically evaluated. The pH, morphological, superficial, and rheological properties were assessed as a physicochemical background. The rheological measurements were performed at 23 and 32°C, and the shear stress versus shear rate ascending and descending rheograms were built, together with the flow profiles of viscosity as a function of shear rate. The cosmetic emulsions were stable at temperature variation and the pH values were considered physiologically acceptable for the skin, indicating that formulations can be safely applied for cosmetic purposes. Results from the optical microscopy analysis showed that all emulsions presented a creamy and non-greasy appearance. The superficial profiles, quantified through contact angle at solid/liquid interface, were specific for hydrophilic formulations. The emulsions showed pseudoplastic and thixotropic behavior, facilitating the formulations’ flow and the topical application. The Power law model was used to quantify the flow properties, and the thixotropic analysis was conducted using particular descriptors, namely thixotropic area, and thixotropic index. The designed emulsions presented appropriate physicochemical properties for cosmetic applications in hair care.
... Hair represents an essential component in terms of a person's physical appearance, with a high social impact on both women and men. For this reason, to make it as visually pleasing as possible, the hair is often subjected to thermal or chemical treatments affecting its structure (Tinoco et al., 2018). ...
... Keratin is a protein found in the structure of the hair and is directly involved in maintaining its resistance, flexibility, and durability by ensuring a proper degree of hydration and a shiny appearance (Basit et al., 2018, Tinoco et al., 2018. Collagen, as essential protein for the human body, is also found in the connective tissue surrounding hair follicle. ...
... To incorporate proteins with role in hair regeneration (keratin, collagen) into an emulsion component, they must be soluble in water and have a reduced ability to aggregate the peptides in its structure (Dănilă et al., 2019b). Thus, the use of protein hydrolysates in the formulation of cosmetic products is indicated due to their ability to prevent damage to the hair strand or to repair the already damaged one (Tinoco et al., 2018. ...
The aim of the paper is to obtain new byproducts based on surfactants (gemini – polymethylene-α, ω-bis (N, N-dialkyl-N-deoxy-d-glucitolammonium iodides or bolaform – demecarium bromide) and protein hydrolysates (keratin and collagen) with micro and macro nutrients for applications in agriculture. A method was developed to include micro and macronutrients in keratin and collagen hydrolysates, in order to obtain new byproducts-bioemulsions (stable because of surfactants), with final goal of application as a new class of root fertilizers for cereals (e.g., corn). The newly obtained byproducts (bioemulsions based on surfactants) were characterized by: dynamic light scattering measurements, contact angle, optical microscopy and microbiological tests against fungal attack of Fusarium spp. and Botrytis cinerea. Better results were obtained for gemini surfactant based on sugar – polymethylene-α, ω-bis (N, N-dialkyl-N-deoxy-d-glucitolammonium iodides) due to the properties such as: biodegradability, nontoxicity and adherence to surfaces. The new fertilizer created in this research – bioemulsions based on surfactants, can support the general structure of the grains as well as the chlorophyll content, increasing the growth yield. The fertilizer is indicated for any type of crops and soils, with recommended use as additional fertilizer for plants (cereals) in the vegetation and growth phases, with a maximum need for nutrients.
... Keratin, is the most abundant component of wool, hair, nails, and hooves [18,19]. This protein shows great biocompatibility in a wide range of biomedical and biotechnological applications, including films [20][21][22], sponges [23], and fibers [24,25]. ...
... Recently, keratin-based drug carriers, such as nanoparticles [26,27], micelles [28], nanogels [29,30], and films [31], have also been explored. Keratin can be easily extracted from feathers [32] and human hair [19]. These are common waste products from the poultry industry and hair salons, respectively. ...
... These are common waste products from the poultry industry and hair salons, respectively. Moreover, when developing formulations with keratin extracted from human hair we can explore the natural affinity of this protein towards keratinaceous appendices [19]. ...
Onychomycosis is the most common nail fungal infection worldwide. There are several therapy options available for onychomycosis, such as oral antifungals, topicals, and physical treatments. Terbinafine is in the frontline for the treatment of onychomycosis; however, several adverse effects are associated to its oral administration. In this work, innovative keratin-based carriers encapsulating terbinafine were designed to overcome the drawbacks related to the use this drug. Therapeutic textiles functionalized with keratin-based particles (100% keratin; 80% keratin/20% keratin-PEG) encapsulating terbinafine were developed. The controlled release of terbinafine from the functionalized textiles was evaluated against different mimetic biologic solutions (PBS buffer—pH = 7.4, micellar solution and acidic sweat solution—pH = 4.3). The modification of keratin with polyethylene glycol (PEG) moieties favored the release of terbinafine at the end of 48 h for all the solution conditions. When the activity of functionalized textiles was tested against Trichophyton rubrum, a differentiated inhibition was observed. Textiles functionalized with 80% keratin/20% keratin-PEG encapsulating terbinafine showed a 2-fold inhibition halo compared with the textiles containing 100% keratin-encapsulating terbinafine. No activity was observed for the textiles functionalized with keratin-based particles without terbinafine. The systems herein developed revealed therapeutic potential towards nail fungal infections, taking advantage of keratin-based particles affinity to keratin structures and of the keratinase activity of T. rubrum.
... Studies using functional keratin proteins demonstrated that these proteins were able to protect hair from the damaged caused by chemical treatments (relaxation and perming), while improving the mechanical strength of the hair fibers and decreasing the fading of color from dyed hair (Roddick-Lanzilotta et al., 2007). In the last years, our group has developed keratin-based particles for the improvement of the stiffness, tensile strength, thermal stability and smoothness of virgin and overbleached Asian hair (Tinoco et al., 2018a). ...
... The extraction solution was then centrifuged at 4000 rpm for 10 min, and the supernatant was filtered using paper filter to remove remaining hair fragments. The keratin solution was dialyzed for 5 days against distilled water using a dialysis membrane with a 14 kDa of cut-off (Tinoco et al., 2018a). ...
... Before the tensile test, the paper template was cut across so the measurements could be performed in the middle section of the hair fiber. The stretching measurements were performed at a rate of 1.5 mm/min, with a 0.01 N preloaded force, until the fiber broke (Tinoco et al., 2018a). The data are presented as a mean ± SD of twenty samples. ...
Hair perfumes are becoming a trend all over the world and new cosmetic formulations have been developed to address this recent need. In the present study, we developed a system for the controlled delivery of perfumes on hair, based on zein, a protein derived from maize, and on keratin. The Keratin:Zein particles, obtained using different strategies and proportions of zein and keratin, presented a high stability along storage, related with the presence of keratin on the particles’ formulation. When applied on hair, the particles formed a film-like structure over the fibers. Fragrance diffusion from the hair-coated particles was dependent on the temperature, the method of particles’ preparation and the fragrances’ physicochemical properties (melting point and vapor pressure). The particles formulations showed also the capacity to improve hair’s mechanical properties and hydration degree. The new system based on Keratin:Zein particles revealed high potential for the development of personalized hair cosmetic products allowing adjustments depending on the personal sensory preferences.
... Particles composed by keratin and silk fibroin were proven to recover asian hair stiffness and tensile strength while improving hair smoothness for virgin and overbleached hair (Tinoco et al., 2018). Water-soluble silk proteins, when applied on skin or hair, are able to form a durable film that improves skin and hair smoothness while protects against environmental, chemical and grooming associated damage (Fahnestock and Schultz, 2006). ...
... Then, the baseline and the bandwidth were fixed and fitted again, and finally, the baseline and center peaks were fixed and fitted once more. In the end, the frequencies determined for the deconvoluted peaks were appointed to the respective protein secondary structure: β-sheet, β-turns, random coil, and α-helix (Tinoco et al., 2018). ...
... pressure: 1 bar), at a temperature range from 50 to 265 • C (heating rate: 5 • C/min). The DSC instrument calibration was performed using high-purity indium and zinc and all samples were measured in duplicate, with the mean value and standard deviations calculated and presented (Tinoco et al., 2018). ...
Styling hair with straightening irons is a popular daily hair routine that significantly damage
the hair keratin fiber due to the high temperature applied. In this study, we investigate
the effect of two fusion proteins based on the human eye gD-crystallin conjugated with
a keratin-based peptide (KP-Cryst Wt and KP-Cryst Mut) on hair exposed to thermal
damage. The mutant form was designed to improve protein stability and promote
interaction with the hair. Through the study, it was demonstrated the protection of Asian
and Caucasian virgin hair’s structure by the pretreatments with the KP-Cryst fusion
proteins. After hair thermal exposure, a higher water content was quantified by TGA
on the hair fibers pretreated with the fusion proteins (about 38% for the KP-Cryst Wt
and 44% for the KP-Cryst Mut). Also, negligible alterations in hair fibers’ stiffness were
observed after iron application, demonstrating the proteins capacity to effectively prevent
the conversion of keratin a-helix structure into b-sheets. The results proved the capacity
of the fusion proteins to bind to hair and protect it against high temperatures’, supporting
the development of new formulations based on the KP-Cryst proteins.
... Particles composed by keratin and silk fibroin were proven to recover asian hair stiffness and tensile strength while improving hair smoothness for virgin and overbleached hair (Tinoco et al., 2018). Water-soluble silk proteins, when applied on skin or hair, are able to form a durable film that improves skin and hair smoothness while protects against environmental, chemical and grooming associated damage (Fahnestock and Schultz, 2006). ...
... Then, the baseline and the bandwidth were fixed and fitted again, and finally, the baseline and center peaks were fixed and fitted once more. In the end, the frequencies determined for the deconvoluted peaks were appointed to the respective protein secondary structure: β-sheet, β-turns, random coil, and α-helix (Tinoco et al., 2018). ...
... pressure: 1 bar), at a temperature range from 50 to 265 • C (heating rate: 5 • C/min). The DSC instrument calibration was performed using high-purity indium and zinc and all samples were measured in duplicate, with the mean value and standard deviations calculated and presented (Tinoco et al., 2018). ...
Styling hair with straightening irons is a popular daily hair routine that significantly damage the hair keratin fiber due to the high temperature applied. In this study, we investigate the effect of two fusion proteins based on the human eye γD-crystallin conjugated with a keratin-based peptide (KP-Cryst Wt and KP-Cryst Mut) on hair exposed to thermal damage. The mutant form was designed to improve protein stability and promote interaction with the hair. Through the study, it was demonstrated the protection of Asian and Caucasian virgin hair's structure by the pretreatments with the KP-Cryst fusion proteins. After hair thermal exposure, a higher water content was quantified by TGA on the hair fibers pretreated with the fusion proteins (about 38% for the KP-Cryst Wt and 44% for the KP-Cryst Mut). Also, negligible alterations in hair fibers' stiffness were observed after iron application, demonstrating the proteins capacity to effectively prevent the conversion of keratin α-helix structure into β-sheets. The results proved the capacity of the fusion proteins to bind to hair and protect it against high temperatures', supporting the development of new formulations based on the KP-Cryst proteins.
... Keratin is the major protein forming hair responsible for strong locks (Velasco et al., 2009;Fernandes et al., 2012). Any damage in hair strands or low keratin content can be rectified by application of silk proteins (Tinoco et al., 2018(Tinoco et al., , 2022. Silk protein contains amino acids such as cysteine is a low molecular weight which helps to boost kertain production . ...
... It can easily penetrate the hair strands to promote growth of hairs and makes hair strands softer (Tinoco et al., 2019). Silk protein in cosmetic formulations was found to rejuvenate and strengthens the weakened hair strands (Tinoco et al., 2018;Alves et al., 2020). It penetrates into the bulb of hair strand and nourishes it from the roots. ...
Synthetic and inorganic chemical ingredients in cosmetic products pose serious health impacts on skin and hair. Much emphasis has been laid on the development of cost-effective, eco-friendly and user-friendly cosmetic products from time to time. Manufacturing cosmetics using natural ingredients is considered as a viable alternative to overcome the side effects of synthetics. Silk is a natural biopolymer obtained from cocoons of sericigenous insects like silkworms. It constitutes two proteins, viz., fibroin and sericin. Fibroin is the central core protein glued with sericin protein forming silken cocoons together. Both the proteins possess remarkable attributes viz, anti-microbial, anti-oxidant, anti-tyrosinase activity, efficient UV resistance, kinase activity, excellent release and absorption of moisture. The silk protein attributes are advantageous for body skin, hair and nails. It possesses a wide range of cosmetic applications such as facilitation of hair growth, improvement in softening and lustre of hair, rejuvenation of body and skin cells, UVB protection, prevention of chapping and brittleness of nails, and skin brightening. Due to its low molecular weight, easily penetrates the hair strands and skin cells, binds the keratin in hair and forms a protective layer to prevent moisture loss. A wide range of products have been developed for use in cosmetics viz., SILKPRO, SILKALL, SILKPRO 1000. These products are used as natural ingredients due to their potent applications in cosmetics. The cosmetic industry can be developed by proper utilization of silk in its organic products while promoting value addition to sericulture industry.
... This result is thought to be related to the thickness of newly generated hair and so it is necessary to extend the observation period. In relation to the status of scalp, functionless hair follicles full of hyperkeratotic plugs [22], assumed incapable of making new hair grow, showed more significant improvement in the score for the keratin of the scalp in the treated side as compared to the nontreated side (P = 0.032). ...
... In case of minoxidil, hair loss inhibition is not appeared to all patients and there is dissatisfaction with sense of use. Other technologies such as hair follicle transplantation and medical devices have been developed, but there are some limitations such as cost burden and somewhat weak effectiveness [22][23][24][25][26]. ...
Background
Alopecia refers to a condition developed by gradual reduction of hair loss by various abnormal causes such as endocrine system, genetic factors, and stress. Stromal vascular fraction (SVF) isolated from the fat is one of the latest innovative solutions in the field of regeneration therapy. We focused on presenting effectiveness of clinical cases to improve AGA through transplantation of autologous SVF into the scalp.
Objective
To confirm the efficacy of the autologous SVF usage to the patients with AGA.
Methods
Nine patients (age range 43–64 years; 4 men, grade IV to V and 5 women, grade I to III), who are suffering from androgenic alopecia (AGA), were treated with single transplantation of autologous SVF in the upper scalp. Autologous SVF was isolated and characterized prior to the injection of live 7–9 × 10 ⁶ cells into the patients’ treatment site. The hair loss improvement effect was assessed by three test criteria: hair skin quality, hair thickness and hair density 3 and 6 months after post-injection compared to pre-injection status.
Results
Hair density of SVF-treated side was significantly increased after 3 and 6 months of transplantation compared to non-treated side ( P = 0.01 and P = 0.009 per each). And significant improvement in the score of the keratin on the scalp was seen in the injected area as compared to the non-injected area 6 months after transplantation ( P = 0.032). Although thickness increase was observed at 3 and 6 months after transplantation, there was no statistical significance ( P = 0.142 and 0.155, respectively).
Conclusions
One transplantation of autologous SVF for the AGA patients, hair density and score for the keratin were significantly increased within 6 months. This study shows that SVF is a very effective way to treat hair loss and most of subjects are satisfied with the result after treatment.
... Furthermore, nonfunctioning hair follicles lled with hyper-keartotic plugs 22 , up to today assumed incapable of forming new hair, showed more signi cant improvement in the score of keratin of scalp in the treated side as compared to the nontreated side (p = 0.032). No side effects were noted after treatment. ...
... Currently, only a few FDA-approved agents for AGA treatment are available 22 . Finasteride and minoxidil, either as monotherapy or in combination, are recommended as the gold standard treatment for AGA 23 According to recent data, promotion of hair growth via ADSCs can be enhanced by combining it with minoxidil, which stimulates the motility of ADSCs and increases the secretion of growth factors and paracrine signaling 29 . ...
Background
Androgenetic alopecia (AGA) is characterized by progressive reduction of hair density on the scalp through gradual conversion of terminal hairs into vellus hairs. Stromal vascular fraction (SVF) cells harvested from fat cells are one of the latest breakthroughs in the aesthetic field. This study aimed to present clinical cases for the treatment of alopecia areata by transplantation of SVF into the scalp.Objective To evaluate the efficacy of the use of the stromal vascular fraction (SVF) in androgenetic alopecia patients.Methods9 patients (age range 43-64 years; 4 men, grade IV to V and 5 women, grade I to III), who are suffering from AGA, have been treated with a single injection of autologous SVF in the upper scalp. Autologous SVF was generated and characterized before the injection of 7-8 × 10 ⁶ cells into the scalp of the patient. Hair regeneration was assessed by three clinical tests: hair skin quality, hair thickness, and hair density at 3 and 6 months post-injection and compared to pre-injection results.ResultsHair density was significantly increased after 3 and 6 months post injection (P = 0.01 and P=0.009). The increase in thickness was notably seen at 6 months post injection (P = 0.02). Furthermore, a significant improvement in the score of keratin of scalp was seen in the treated side as compared to the nontreated side (p=0.032). No side effects were noted after treatment.ConclusionsA single treatment of SVF injected into the scalp of patients with AGA significantly increased hair density within 3 to 6 months. The obtained results prove the efficacy and the safety of the treatment, and satisfaction of the patients confirm the quality of the results.
... Bleaching process. The bleaching of black Asian hair was performed according Tinoco et al., 2018 21 The hair tresses were washed before and after treatment with a classic commercial shampoo (Pantene Basic). ...
... Bleaching process. The bleaching of black Asian hair was performed according Tinoco et al., 2018 21 The hair tresses were washed before and after treatment with a classic commercial shampoo (Pantene Basic). ...
The present research relates to a fusion protein comprising a chromogenic blue ultramarine protein (UM) bound to a keratin-based peptide (KP). The KP-UM fusion protein explores UM chromogenic nature together with KP affinity towards hair. For the first time a fusion protein with a chromogenic nature is explored as a hair coloring agent. The KP-UM protein colored overbleached hair, being the color dependent on the formulation polarity. The protein was able to bind to the hair cuticle and even to penetrate throughout the hair fibre. Molecular dynamics studies demonstrated that the interaction between the KP-UM protein and the hair was mediated by the KP sequence. All the formulations recovered the mechanical properties of overbleached hair and KP-UM proved to be safe when tested in human keratinocytes. Although based on a chromogenic non-fluorescent protein, the KP-UM protein presented a photoswitch phenomenon, changing from chromogenic to fluorescent depending on the wavelength selected for excitation. KP-UM protein shows the potential to be incorporated in new eco-friendly cosmetic formulations for hair coloration, decreasing the use of traditional dyes and reducing its environmental impact.
... This prominence is attributed not only to its readily available nature, but also to its chemical similarities with the keratin found in hair, which confers a higher compatibility and affinity with the hair's own protein structure. Many studies have demonstrated that the inclusion of hydrolyzed keratin into hair care product formulations can markedly enhance the tensile strength of hair, efficiently prevent hair from breaking, and ameliorate the hygroscopic nature of hair, rendering hair more manageable [23,24]. However, the UV protection performance of hydrolyzed keratin has been rarely explored. ...
Photoaging is common and represents one of the primary pathways for hair damage in daily life. Hydrolyzed keratin, which is usually derived from wool and consists of a series of polypeptide molecules, has been investigated as a UV damage prevention ingredient for hair care. Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) and fluorescent penetration experiments verified that hydrolyzed keratin can deposit on the hair cuticles to form a film and partly penetrate into the hair cortex. This film played as a UV reducer and helped hair resist surface damage and maintain a sleek and healthy morphology after UV radiation. Surprisingly, it was found that hydrolyzed keratin treatment combined with subsequent UV radiation could significantly improve the tensile properties of hair. For hydrolyzed-keratin-treated hair, tensile strength was maintained after UV radiation, while, as a comparison, it decreased by 14.32% for untreated hair. This phenomenon is explained by a UV-induced degradation–penetration mechanism. During UV radiation, an increase in free amino acid content and conductivity was observed for the hydrolyzed keratin solution, demonstrating photodegradation into smaller peptides and amino acids. The degradation of hydrolyzed keratin allowed it to more easily enter the interior of the hair cortex, thereby enhancing its tensile properties by enhancing the chemical bonds.
... A film of keratin applied on the skin offers a silky sensation [271]. Keratin particles are proficient as components of cosmetics for hair care [272]. Thus, keratin is successfully used in lotions, shampoos, and conditioners, and for skincare products [273,274]. ...
The environmental invasion of plastic waste leads to, among other things, a reassessment of natural fibers. Environmental pollution has shown the importance of the degradability, among other properties, of the raw materials used by the textile industry or other industrial fields. Wool seems to be a better raw material than the polymers that generate large quantities of micro-and nano-plastics, polluting the soil, water, and air. However, the usual processing of raw wool involves a number of chemically very polluting treatments. Thus, sustainable procedures for making wool processing environmentally friendly have been considered, leading to the reappraisal of wool as a suitable raw material. Besides their applications for textile products (including smart textiles), new directions for the valorization of this natural material have been developed. According to the recent literature, wool may be successfully used as a thermal and phonic insulator, fertilizer, or component for industrial devices, or in medical applications, etc. In addition, the wool protein α-keratin may be extracted and used for new biomaterials with many practical applications in various fields. This review makes a survey of the recent data in the literature concerning wool production, processing , and applications, emphasizing the environmental aspects and pointing to solutions generating sustainable development.
... At the molecular level, hair damage generally indicates the destruction of keratin configuration and chemical bonds in the hair, such as ionic bonds, disulfide bonds and intermolecular hydrogen bonds [5][6][7][8][9]. This destruction consequently results in a decrease in the mechanical properties of hair [2,3,10]. ...
Chemical treatments of hair such as dyeing, perming and bleaching could cause mechanical damage to the hair, which weakens the hair fibers and makes the hair break more easily. In this work, hyaluronate (HA) with different molecular weight (MW) was investigated for its effects on restoring the mechanical properties of damaged hair. It was found that low-MW HA (average MW~42 k) could significantly improve the mechanical properties, specifically the elastic modulus, of overbleached hair. The fluorescent-labeling experiments verified that the low-MW HA was able to penetrate into the cortex of the hair fiber, while high-MW HA was hindered. Fourier transform infrared spectrometry (FT-IR) results implied the formation of additional intermolecular hydrogen bonds in the HA-treated hair. Thermos gravimetric analysis (TGA) indicated that the HA-treated hair exhibited decreased content of loosely bonded water, and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) characterizations suggested stronger water bonding inside the HA-treated hair, which could alleviate the weakening effect of loosely bonded water on the hydrogen bond networks within keratin. Therefore, the improved elastic modulus and mechanical strength of the HA-treated hair could be attributed to the enhanced formation of hydrogen bond networks within keratin. This study illustrates the capability of low-MW HA in hair damage repair, implying an enormous potential for other moisturizers to be used in hair care products.
... The Na 2 CO 3 solution was changed several times until complete fragmentation of the cocoons. The degummed silk fibroin (SF) was dried at 40 • C and solubilized with a solution of 9.3 M lithium bromide at 60 • C. The soluble SF was filtered to remove undissolved fibers and dialyzed for 5 days in distilled water using a dialysis membrane with a 14 kDa cutoff [26]. ...
The perming of hair is a common styling procedure with negative impact on the overall properties of the hair fibers. Usually, this process uses harsh chemicals to promote the disruption of disulfide bonds and the formation of new bonds to change the shape of hair. Here, we explored bovine serum albumin (BSA), silk fibroin (SF), keratin and two fusion recombinant proteins (KP-UM and KP-Cryst) as new perming agents. A phosphate buffer prepared at different pH values (5, 7 and 9) was used to apply the proteins to virgin Asian hair, and a hot BaByliss was used to curl the hair fibers. To assess the potential of the protein formulations for hair styling, the perming efficiency and the perming resistance to wash were measured. Furthermore, the fiber water content was evaluated to assess if the proteins protected the hair during the styling process. Despite all of the proteins being able to assist in the curling of Asian hair, the best perming efficiency and perming resistance to wash results were observed for BSA and keratin. These proteins showed perming efficiency values close to that measured for a commercial perming product (chemical method), particularly at pH 5 and 9. The increase in the hair’s internal and external water contents revealed a protective effect provided by the proteins during the application of heat in the styling procedure. This study shows the potential of proteins to be used in the development of new eco-friendly hair styling products.
... This is interesting because peptides are added to hair formulations with the intention of increase hydration, brightness, smoothness and improve mechanical properties of the hair fiber, such as strength and resistance. 19 However, with this result, it was possible to observe the action of this active substance on the internal structure of the capillary fiber (cortex). 9 Figure 8 showed the results of hair gloss analysis. ...
Cold Atmospheric Plasma (CAP) is a novel method for biomaterial fabrication, inducing physicochemical changes in biomolecules. Keratin, an industrial waste product valued for its biocompatibility and biodegradability, formed self-assembled structures under CAP treatment, as revealed by SEM. Zeta analysis showed increased surface charge, while TGA and XRD confirmed enhanced crystallinity with sharp-edged nanocrystalline structures. Unique self-assembly behaviors were observed in un-dialyzed and dialyzed keratin. CAP modified keratin's self-assembly through reactive oxygen and nitrogen species (RONS), inducing physical changes without altering its chemical structure or native conformation. This highlights CAP's potential to tailor keratin properties for specific applications.
Nutrional Supplements: Necessity or Overhyped?
This study presents the development and optimization of keratin peptide-loaded nanostructured lipid carriers (KP-NLCs) as an advanced formulation for hair repair and protection. The objective was to restore keratin integrity in damaged hair while achieving enhanced stability, controlled release, and biocompatibility. The optimized KP-NLCs were formulated using a composition of 7.5 % (w/w) total lipids, 1.5 % (w/w) liquid lipids (1:1 ratio of argan and castor oils), and 3.5 % (w/w) Tween 80 as a surfactant. Under these conditions, the nanoparticles exhibited a hydrodynamic diameter of 100 nm, a polydispersity index (PDI) of 0.3, and a zeta potential of −34.5 mV, ensuring colloidal stability. The encapsulation efficiency and drug loading were determined to be 82 % and 13 %, respectively. The in vitro release profile demonstrated an initial burst of 60 % KP release within 3 h, followed by sustained release over 9 h. Cytotoxicity studies on NIH-3 T3 fibroblast cells revealed the biocompatibility and efficiency of the KP-NLCs, with a significantly lower IC50 value of 3,201 µg/mL compared to free KP (15,473 µg/mL) and blank NLCs (10,926 µg/mL). This notable reduction in IC50 highlights the synergistic effect between KP and the natural lipids, which enhances cell viability, minimizes toxicity, and ensures improved therapeutic performance. Structural repair analyses demonstrated that KP-NLCs effectively improved the mechanical strength and flexibility of damaged hair by facilitating keratin repair through disulfide bond reassembly. The synergistic interaction of keratin peptide with natural oils not only enhanced the formulation’s stability but also contributed to its superior protective and restorative effects. These findings underscore the potential of KP-NLCs as a biocompatible, eco-friendly solution for advanced hair care applications. The optimized formulation demonstrated enhanced keratin repair, controlled peptide release, and synergistic efficacy, offering a promising alternative to conventional hair treatments. Future studies should further investigate the effects of KP-NLCs on hair growth and real-world applications.
Silk, a remarkable biopolymer that boasts a wide range of application in various sectors like textiles and pharmaceuticals, has gained significant attention in recent years for its potential in the cosmetic industry and this is attributed by the versatile nature of silk proteins. The possibilities that silk offers for cosmetic applications are examined in this chapter, along with the fibre’s structural details, constituent proteins (fibroin and sericin), and the potential cosmetic advantages of using silk proteins. The commercial availability of products made from silk is also addressed, emphasizing the extent of the utilization of silk as an adaptable and powerful element in the cosmetics sector. A SWOT analysis of the cosmetic application of silk biopolymers is presented, serving as a comprehensive tool that assists companies in optimizing the possible advantages of silk biopolymers while tackling its drawbacks and difficulties in the cosmetic sector. In order to foster innovation, satisfy consumer demand and advance sustainability and health in the cosmetics sector, it is imperative that researchers examine the cosmetic uses of silk and silk proteins.
Vulvovaginal candidiasis (VVC) is characterized as a very common fungal infection that significantly affects women’s health worldwide. Essential oils (EOs) are currently being evaluated as an alternative therapy. The development of efficient techniques such as micro- or nanoencapsulation for protecting and controlling release is essential to overcome the limitations of EO applications. Therefore, the aim of this study was to develop and characterize oregano EO-loaded keratin microparticles (OEO-KMPs) as a potential treatment for VVC. OEO-KMPs were produced using high-intensity ultrasonic cycles and characterized in terms of morphological and physicochemical parameters. In vitro evaluation included assessing the toxicity of the OEO-KMPs and their effect against Candida albicans using microdilution and agar diffusion, while the activity against biofilm was quantified using colony forming units (CFU). The efficacy of the OEO-KMPs in an in vivo VVC mouse model was also studied. Female BALB/c mice were intravaginally infected with C. albicans, 24 h postinfection animals were treated intravaginally with 15 μL of OEO-KMPs and 24 h later vaginal fluid was analyzed for C. albicans and Lactobacillus growth (CFU mL–1). The results showed the stability of the OEO-KMPs over time, with high encapsulation efficiency and controlled release. This nanoparticle size facilitated penetration and completely inhibited the planktonic growth of C. albicans. In addition, an in vitro application of 2.5% of the OEO-KMPs eradicated mature C. albicans biofilms while preserving Lactobacillus species. In in vivo, a single intravaginal application of OEO-KMPs induced a reduction in C. albicans growth, while maintaining Lactobacillus species. In conclusion, this therapeutic approach with OEO-KMPs is promising as a potential alternative or complementary therapy for VVC while preserving vaginal microflora.
The recalcitrant heap of chicken feathers is one of the most hostile environmental pollutants. It has been estimated that about 8.5 billion tons of chicken feathers are discarded per annum globally, while India alone contributes 350 million tons in a year. These knave heaps of chicken feathers, being the high sources of proteins, contains about 90% (w/w) of β-keratin along with phenylalanine, glycine, arginine, glutamate and cysteine. Keratinolytic microorganisms often secrete a hydrolytic enzyme; keratinase that have the ability to degrade the disulfide and peptide bonds of keratin. Potent keratinolytic microorganisms can convert recalcitrant feather waste into protein hydrolysate which can be used to generate high-quality vermicompost. In addition, it can be effectively used in cosmetic sector, leather industry, textile industry or as livestock feed. It may also provide a sustainable alternative approach to produce renewable energy. The study aims to focus on different methods of valorization of feather waste by keratinolytic bacteria, bioconversion processes and widespread applications of feather hydrolysate.
Cosmetics for perming hair are commonly used but have negative impacts on hair fibers. Repairing damaged hair with conditioners, hair oil, and hair masks can provide relief but cannot prevent injuries. Recent research has shown that proteins and amino acids can remodel hair's disulfide bonds. However, the permeation ability of proteins is limited, and amino acids may disrupt the secondary structure of hair keratins. Our study demonstrates that peptides can be safely, efficiently, and promisingly used for hair perming. A bioinspired peptide, PepACS (PepA-PepC-SPB), was designed through bioinformatics. It can interact with keratin's sulfhydryl group in situ to remodel disulfide bonds without affecting hair fiber's tensile properties. The potential of PepACS to repair cuticle injuries is also observed through scanning electron microscope visualization. Besides, linking PepACS with mCherry enables hair dyeing. This research suggests that biomaterials can be applied in the hair care industry. STATEMENT OF SIGNIFICANCE: Chemical perming products can have negative impacts on people's health and hair fibers, making it essential to explore alternative methods. Peptides treatment is a promising option, but synthesizing sulfur-rich short peptides for hair perming has not been demonstrated before. In this paper, we utilized bioinformatics to design bio-inspired peptides that can interact with hair keratins and form curled shapes. Our study demonstrates that bioinformatics tools can be utilized to design bioinspired peptides with unique functions. Sulfur-rich short peptides can be heterologously expressed with fusion strategies, and PepACS can securely bind hair fibers through disulfide bonds. Importantly, perming hair with 0.01% PepACS maintains the mechanical properties of hair, and dyeing hair with the fusion protein PepACS_mCh can be facilitated by ethanol. These findings suggest that the strategy of perming and dyeing hair through peptides is non-injurious, and the peptides used for repairing hair damage show tremendous potential.
The waste stream of low-grade wool is an underutilized source of keratin-rich materials with appropriate methods for upcycling into high value-added products still being an open challenge. In the present work, keratins were precipitated from their water solution to produce hierarchical keratin particles via isoelectric precipitation. Matrix-assisted laser desorption/ionization coupled with time-of-flight tandem mass spectrometry analysis (MALDI-TOF/TOF MS/MS) showed the presence of the amino acid sequence leucine-aspartic acid-valine (LDV) in the extracted keratin. This well-known cell adhesion motif is recognized by the cell adhesion molecule α4β1 integrin. We showed that keratin particles had this tripeptide exposed on the surface and that it could be leveraged, via patterns obtained with microcontact printing, to support and facilitate dermal fibroblast cell adhesion and direct their growth orientation. The zeta potential, isoelectric point, morphological structures, chemical composition, and biocompatibility of keratin particles and the influence of the surfactant sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) were investigated. An appropriate ink for microcontact printing of the keratin particles was developed and micron-sized patterns were obtained. Cells adhered preferentially to the patterns, showing how this strategy could be used to functionalize biointerfaces.
Cosmetics procedures and products combined with environmental insults and daily routines induce irreversible changes in hair. As result of damage, the hair loses some of its properties like strength, elasticity, and smoothness. Recent studies revealed the positive effects of protein-based cosmetics in providing protection to hair. Additionally, these cosmetic products have also shown a great ability to modify hair fibers. We review the effect of protein-based cosmetic formulations on hair properties like color, scent, strength, shape, and volume, highlighting the potential of keratin-based particles and keratin-fusion proteins. In the future, incorporating multifunctional proteins and peptides in the development of alternative hair formulations will result in advanced, sustainable, ecofriendly cosmetic products with a great impact on the cosmetic industry.
The photoprotective properties of exogenous melanin extracted from cuttlefish ink on human hair was assessed. Melanin extracted from cuttlefish ink was applied on black hair and irradiated using a solar simulator. The extent of photodegradation was determined by microstructural, morphological and mechanical testing. The UV–Vis spectra of melanin extracted from cuttlefish ink indicated strong absorption at UV region and moderate absorption in visible region. The melanin‐coated samples indicated significant protection to hair cuticle against UV radiations, as indicated by microscopic images (SEM). Conversely, visible cracks were evident on uncoated hair shafts, when exposed to UV‐radiations. Also, the melanin‐coated hair samples indicated negligible alterations in disulfide linkages, free sulfhydryl group content, water retention index and swelling index on UV exposure, as compared to that of uncoated samples. Similarly, the mechanical strength of the uncoated hair fibers was far compromised by UV irradiation compared to that of melanin‐coated hair fibers. The observations of the present study postulate cuttlefish melanin as a potential photoprotective agent in hair‐care formulations, which is otherwise considered as a process discard from cephalopod processing industry.
Background
There is currently a great interest not only in developing products for the protection and recovery of chemically damaged hair, but also in developing effective protocols to investigate the impact of chemical treatments and attest the efficacy of innovative hair care products. Among the most relevant cosmetic treatments for hair are bleaching and coloring, which have been shown to significantly impair mechanical and structural properties.
Objectives
This study aimed to characterize the damage induced by hair bleaching and coloring and to evaluate the protective effects of a hair care treatment based on integral silk proteins (fibroin and sericin) and vegetable‐derived polysaccharides from linseed (Linum usitatissimum L.).
Methods
Hair swatches were subjected to different treatment protocols in order to evaluate the protective effect of proposed and benchmark products during bleaching and coloring processes. Tensile tests were performed to assess mechanical properties and improvement in resistance to breakage. Goniophotometric measurements were applied to determine improvement in luster. Hair fiber surface and relief were evaluated by SEM image analysis.
Results
Swatches bleached and treated with both evaluated products had a significant increase in resistance and reduced structural damage. Swatches colored and treated with both evaluated products showed reduced structural damage, and a significant increase in resistance and luster after the 1st and 5th washes.
Conclusions
The proposed product was effective in protecting and repairing bleached and colored swatches, improving resistance and luster and reducing structural damage. By applying complementary techniques within a reliable evaluation protocol, it was possible to attest the protective properties of the product under study.
Hair mechanical properties are primary indicators of hair integrity. Here we describe a methodology based on hair's resistance to mechanical wear to evaluate cosmetic treatments. Using a vibrational vortex cycle, we developed a protocol that relies on the plastic deformation and degradation of hair, due to frictional forces between hardened steel balls and hair fragments. We demonstrate that the balls when in contact with the hair fragments promoted extended hair degradation. The degree of degradation was related to hair's resistance to mechanical wear. Lower degradation rates reflect high resistance to mechanical wear. We found differences according to hair ethnicity and type of treatment. This methodology shows great potential for the screening and evaluation of the effect of cosmetic treatments on hair.
Ohmic heating is a thermal processing method based on the application of electric fields directly into a semi-conductive medium. In this study, we explored for the first time the use of ohmic heating to obtain keratin films. The properties of the films prepared by ohmic heating and conventional heating were evaluated and compared under similar thermal profiles. A lower increase in free thiols' concentration was obtained for the keratin solutions and keratin films submitted to ohmic heating (16% increase for the keratin solution extracted from virgin hair, pH 9, submitted to ohmic heating and 23% when submitted to conventional heating). Significant differences in the swelling results were observed for the films prepared with keratin extracted from virgin hair, with a swelling decrease in about 55% for the films prepared by ohmic heating. Generally, the keratin films obtained by ohmic heating showed distinct properties comparatively to the films produced by conventional methods. The application of a fusion protein on the keratin films demonstrated their capacity to be used as substitutes to hair fibers when evaluating the potential of new cosmetic products. This work suggests that ohmic heating show potential to tailor keratin films properties depending on an intended application or functionality.
Hair is a significant indicator of health and can have a major impact on an individual’s cosmetic appearance. Research within the cosmetics industry has revealed that when nanomaterials are engineered into hair care, they can enhance the benefits of active ingredients in order to improve hair cosmesis. Within the cosmetics arena, the unique size and intrinsic properties of nanoparticles can be tailored to target the hair follicle and shaft. This review aims to provide an overview of cosmetic nanocarriers that can be employed to improve the appearance of hair.
Nanoemulsions have attracted great attention in research, dosage form design and pharmacotherapy. This is as a result of a number of attributes peculiar to nanoemulsions such as optical clarity, ease of preparation, thermodynamic stabil-ity and increased surface area. Nanoemulsions also known as submicron emulsions serve as vehicles for the delivery of active pharmaceutical ingredients as well as other bioactives. They are designed to address some of the problems asso-ciated with conventional drug delivery systems such as low bioavailability and noncompliance. The importance of de-sign and development of emulsion nanocarrier systems aimed at controlling and/or improving required bioavailability levels of therapeutic agents cannot be overemphasized. Reducing droplet sizes to the nanoscale leads to some very in-teresting physical properties, such as optical transparency and unusual elastic behaviour. This review sheds light on the current state of nanoemulsions in the delivery of drugs and other bioactives. The morphology, formulation, charac-teristics and characterization of nanoemulsions were also addressed.
Synopsis--A SCANNING ELECTRON MICROSCOPE study of the morphological changes in human HAIR has revealed that these changes may be entirely attributable to the ABRASION normally associated with hair grooming. In particular, SHAMPOOING and BRUSHING can produce all of the observed changes detected in virgin hair. These changes are more deleterious in some cosmetically altered hairs. This appears to be attributable to a decrease in the disulphide bond content of these fibres, this decrease being brought about by the cosmetic treatment.
The nature of the bimodal denaturation endotherm, which has been observed for some α-keratin materials, was investigated in order to evaluate the validity of the two conflicting theories to interpret the phenomenon. Ortho- and para-cortical cells were isolated from Merino wool and subjected to measurements by differential scanning calorimetry in water at elevated temperatures (80–170°C). The results show for the isolated cell fractions denaturation peaks at 138°C (ortho) and 144°C (para) that are with respect to their location and temperature difference in good agreement with the results obtained for the whole fiber material. The denaturation enthalpy of the para- (21 J/g) was found to be higher than of the ortho-cortical cells (17 J/g) in contrast to expectations from electron diffraction studies. The fact that both of these values are higher than for the whole fiber (15 J/g) is attributed to the removal of the cuticle prior and to the enzymatic digestion of some further material during cell separation. The results give unequivocal evidence for the validity of the ortho/para-hypothesis for the interpretation of the endothermic denaturation doublet of keratins. © 1998 John Wiley & Sons, Inc. J Appl Polym Sci 68: 1991–1995, 1998
Aim: Poloxamer a block copolymer is well known for its thermoreversible property also has several other properties used in several formulations for its advantage over optimising the drug release from its formulation with a sol-gel transition property. Methods: Poloxamer exhibits in a sol state at less than room temperature and gets converted to a gel state at body temperature (37.2°C) thus modifying drug release characteristics. Poloxamer formulations were also evaluated for other therapeutic properties for both in-vitro and in-vivo based on its specific property. Poloxamer is frequently used polymer, which showed a good solubilisation capacity and an enhanced release profile of many poorly soluble drugs for several route of administrations such as oral, topical, ocular, rectal, vaginal, nasal and parenterals. Even inclusion of active ingredients in liposomes, micro and nano formulations were performed and showed more satisfying results. The recent inventions gave a good breakthrough in Poloxamer market due to its agreeable application in gene therapy and cytotoxicity studies. Conclusion: This work extensively concentrates on the different grades of Poloxamer for its physical and biological applications.
TG and DSC analyses were carried out in this work to evaluate the changes in the denaturation of human hair keratin submitted to different chemical effects. Hair bleaching and chlorinating treatments caused changes in the denaturation temperatures and denaturation enthalpies of hair keratin. Bleached hair and hair kept in a chlorinated solution presented a lower denaturation enthalpy and a higher denaturation temperature compared to the control hair sample. The TG and DSC analyses allowed to quantify the degradation level of hair fibers after the chemical treatments. AFM was also utilized to characterize the morphological alterations in the hair fiber surfaces caused by the chlorinating and bleaching treatments.
Background
Hair is composed mainly of keratin protein and a small amount of lipid. Protein hydrolysates, in particular those with low molecular weight distribution have been known to protect hair against chemical and environmental damage. Many types of protein hydrolysates from plants and animals have been used in hair and personal care such as keratin hydrolysates obtained from nails, horns and wool. Most of these hydrolysates are obtained by chemical hydrolysis and hydrothermal methods, but recently hydrolyzed hair keratin, feather keratin peptides, and feather meal peptides have been obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis using Bacillus spp in submerged fermentation.
Results
Keratin peptides were obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis of keratinases using Bacillus subtilis AMR. The microorganism was grown on a feather medium, pH 8.0 (1% feathers) and supplemented with 0.01% of yeast extract, for 5 days, at 28°C with agitation. The supernatant containing the hydrolysates was colleted by centrifugation and ultra filtered in an AMICON system using nano–membranes (Millipore – YC05). The Proteins and peptides were analyzed using HPTLC and MALDI-TOF-MS. Commercial preparations of keratin hydrolysates were used as a comparative standard. After five days the feather had been degraded (90-95%) by the peptidases and keratinases of the microorganism. MALDI-TOF mass spectrometry showed multiple peaks that correspond to peptides in the range of 800 to 1079 Daltons and the commercial hydrolysate was in the range of 900 to 1400 Da. HPTLC showed lower molecular mass peptides and amino acids in the enzymatic hydrolysate when compared with the commercial hydrolysate . A mild shampoo and a rinse off conditioner were formulated with the enzymatic hydrolysate and applied to hair fibers to evaluate the hydration, with and without heat, using a Corneometer® CM 825. The hydration was more efficient with heat, suggesting a more complete incorporation of hydrolysates into the fibers. Scanning Electron Microscopy showed deposits of organic matter in the junction of the cuticles that probably collaborates to the sealing of the cuticles, increasing the brightness and softness.
Conclusions
These results show that the enzymatic method to produce keratin peptides for hair care products is an attractive and eco- friendly method with a great potential in the cosmetic industry.
A biomimetic approach of composition and natural function of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) with the amino acid content of silk fibroin was advantageously used to reconstruct the skin moisturizing system. The isolation of silk hydrolysate with water and sodium chloride treatment was complete in one hour. Lithium ion from LiBr effectively penetrated crystal domains of fibroin and gave desired solubility. Silk fibroin from Bombyx mori cocoons was non-allergic and biocompatible in skin and rabbit eye tests. The concentration dependent moisturizing efficacy of fibroin (1-5% w/v) in solution and cream form has been demonstrated by TEWL in vitro and in volunteers. As compared to dry and normal skin the fibroin containing cream revealed increased substantivity. The increased hydroxproline content was responsible for retaining higher moisture in the skin. This in turn maintained the skin in soft and supple state. The significant drop in impedance was observed within 1 hr of the application of fibroin and the effect was sustained for more than 6 hrs. Thus, increased hydration level in stratum corneum was achieved by fibroin treatment. The SEM of fibroin treated skin replicas showed a desired attribute of soft, smooth skin texture and improved flexibility. The increased state of hydration caused interdigitating of cell edges as evident in microphotographs. The rapid and sustained moisturizing efficiency observed with silk fibroin was well substantiated by the results of skin substantivity and impedance tests.
This research aimed the effect on Caucasian hair tresses treated with oxidative hair dye, either incorporated or not with
conditioners agents, analyzed by Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC) and Thermogravimetric analysis (TG). The formulations
of hair dyes were emulsions oil-in-water with light blond color containing or not the conditioners agents: silanetriol and
panthenol; PEG-12 dimethicone; hydrolyzed silk, hydrolyzed milk protein, and lactose. Each dye (1.5g) was applied in the
hair tress (2.0g/20.0cm of length of Caucasian light-brown), previously treated, more 1.5g of hydrogen peroxide 20 vol
during 40min. Evaluation of mass loss of the different hair sample demonstrates that these chemical hair treatments impair
the hair fibers, reduced their moisture content with respect to the untreated hair. The incorporation of conditioners agents
(silanetriol and panthenol; PEG-12 dimethicone; hydrolyzed silk, hydrolyzed milk protein, and lactose) in oxidative hair dyes
types did not decrease the damage caused on the tresses by the coloring process quantified by TG/DTG. However, the DSC curves
demonstrated those conditioners agents (silanetriol and panthenol; PEG-12 dimethicone) dislocated the beginning of the third
event in 20°C and they inhibited the presence of the fourth event, having characterized thermal protection to the hair.
KeywordsOxidative hair dye–Conditioners agents–Hair properties–Thermal analysis
Protein-based composite biomaterials have been actively pursued as they can encompass a range of physical properties to accommodate a broader spectrum of functional requirements, such as elasticity to support diverse tissues. By optimizing molecular interfaces between structural proteins, useful composite materials can be fabricated as films, gels, particles, and fibers, as well as for electrical and optical devices. Such systems provide analogies to more traditional synthetic polymers yet with expanded utility due to the material's tunability, mechanical properties, degradability, biocompatibility, and functionalization, such as for drug delivery, biosensors, and tissue regeneration.
Advances in the extraction, purification, and characterization of keratin proteins from hair and wool fibers over the past century have led to the development of a keratin-based biomaterials platform. Like many naturally-derived biomolecules, keratins have intrinsic biological activity and biocompatibility. In addition, extracted keratins are capable of forming self-assembled structures that regulate cellular recognition and behavior. These qualities have led to the development of keratin biomaterials with applications in wound healing, drug delivery, tissue engineering, trauma and medical devices. This review discusses the history of keratin research and the advancement of keratin biomaterials for biomedical applications.
The Cell Line Data Base (CLDB) is a well-known reference information source on human and animal cell lines including information
on more than 6000 cell lines. Main biological features are coded according to controlled vocabularies derived from international
lists and taxonomies. HyperCLDB (http://bioinformatics.istge.it/hypercldb/) is a hypertext version of CLDB that improves data accessibility by also allowing information retrieval through web spiders.
Access to HyperCLDB is provided through indexes of biological characteristics and navigation in the hypertext is granted by
many internal links. HyperCLDB also includes links to external resources. Recently, an interest was raised for a reference
nomenclature for cell lines and CLDB was seen as an authoritative system. Furthermore, to overcome the cell line misidentification
problem, molecular authentication methods, such as fingerprinting, single-locus short tandem repeat (STR) profile and single
nucleotide polymorphisms validation, were proposed. Since this data is distributed, a reference portal on authentication of
human cell lines is needed. We present here the architecture and contents of CLDB, its recent enhancements and perspectives.
We also present a new related database, the Cell Line Integrated Molecular Authentication (CLIMA) database (http://bioinformatics.istge.it/clima/), that allows to link authentication data to actual cell lines.
Many authors recognize the beneficial effects of using protein-rich substances in formulations of various topical applications. Proteins quickly were considered useful ingredients for creating a suitable environment for healthy skin and hair because of their ability to bind water with the horny layer of skin and its annexes. Most protein derivatives that are used for cosmetic purposes are obtained from simple proteins, whereas conjugated proteins are used far less frequently. In this article, the role and efficacy of proteins used in cosmetics are reported and discussed.
Spider silk has outstanding mechanical properties despite being spun at close to ambient temperatures and pressures using water as the solvent. The spider achieves this feat of benign fibre processing by judiciously controlling the folding and crystallization of the main protein constituents, and by adding auxiliary compounds, to create a composite material of defined hierarchical structure. Because the 'spinning dope' (the material from which silk is spun) is liquid crystalline, spiders can draw it during extrusion into a hardened fibre using minimal forces. This process involves an unusual internal drawdown within the spider's spinneret that is not seen in industrial fibre processing, followed by a conventional external drawdown after the dope has left the spinneret. Successful copying of the spider's internal processing and precise control over protein folding, combined with knowledge of the gene sequences of its spinning dopes, could permit industrial production of silk-based fibres with unique properties under benign conditions.
Hair is an important component of body image and has immense psychological importance for both men and women. Women, in particular, over the ages have modified their appearance through changing their hair colour or style. Hair can be straight, wavy or curly, blonde, black, brown or red. These natural variations are an important part of our identity that can be manipulated according to the dictates of fashion, culture or society.
Different types of hair have varying affinity for the different colouring and waving methods. Damaged hair also has a different affinity for hair products than normal healthy hair. The hair shaft is remarkably strong and resistant to the extremes of nature. Hair cosmetics are widely available and manipulate the structural properties of hair. Whilst most procedures are safe, there is considerable potential for damage to the hair and hair problems of acute onset, including hair breakage, hair loss and loss of condition, are frequently blamed on the last product used on the hair. Hair problems are particularly prevalent among people who repeatedly alter the natural style of their hair.
Abstract Introduction Interaction Forces and Their Combination Self-Assembly Structures in Cosmetic Formulations Structure of Liquid Crystalline Phases Driving Force for Formation of Liquid Crystalline Phases Polymeric Surfactants in Cosmetic Formulations Polymeric Surfactants for Stabilization of Nanoemulsions Polymeric Surfactants in Multiple Emulsions Polymeric Surfactants for Stabilization of Liposomes and Vesicles Conclusions References
In this work, keratin was extracted from chicken feather waste via an environment-friendly method, sulphitolysis method, by using various sodium metabisulphite contents (0.0-0.5 M). Percentage yield and molecular weight of the extracted keratin were characterized by gravimetry and gel electrophoresis (SDS-PAGE), respectively. It was found that the yield increased, with the increase of sodium meta-bisulphite content, to the maximum value of 87.6 % yield, by using sodium meta-bisulphite content at 0.2 M. Molecular weight range of the product also decreased with the increase of the sodium meta-bisulphite content. The extracted keratin, with highest molecular weight ranged between 12 and 20 kDa, was further used for fabricating into fibers by using the electrospinning process. It was found that pure keratin solution could not be electrospun into fiber. However, by blending keratin with more than 10 wt% PLA, the fibers can be prepared. Results from FTIR and DSC also reveal that the crystal structure of the keratin changed from the β-sheet structure (rigid and small displacement characteristic) to the α-helix structure (elastic and large displacement characteristic) after keratin/PLA blends (10-50 wt% keratin) were prepared by the electrospinning method.
The paper reports on the synthesis and characterization of domesticated Bombyx mori silk fibroin (SF) micro- and nanoparticles used for controlled drug delivery systems. SF micro- and nanoparticles were obtained by precipitation in different organic solvents. The fibroin samples were characterized by FTIR-ATR spectroscopy and SEM analysis. The use of such SF particles may range from the controlled delivery of drugs and protein therapeutics to their use as a platform for the delivery of growth factors for regenerative tissue repair.
Hair cosmetics are an important tool that helps to increase patient's adhesion to alopecia and scalp treatments. This article reviews the formulations and the mode of action of hair cosmetics: Shampoos, conditioners, hair straightening products, hair dyes and henna; regarding their prescription and safetiness. The dermatologist's knowledge of hair care products, their use, and their possible side effects can extend to an understanding of cosmetic resources and help dermatologists to better treat hair and scalp conditions according to the diversity of hair types and ethnicity.
Complementary neutron- and light-scattering results on nine proteins and amino acids reveal the role of rigidity and secondary structure in determining the time- and lengthscales of low-frequency collective vibrational dynamics in proteins. These dynamics manifest in a spectral feature, known as the boson peak (BP), which is common to all disordered materials. We demonstrate that BP position scales systematically with structural motifs, reflecting local rigidity: disordered proteins appear softer than α-helical proteins; which are softer than β-sheet proteins. Our analysis also reveals a universal spectral shape of the BP in proteins and amino acid mixtures; superimposable on the shape observed in typical glasses. Uniformity in the underlying physical mechanism, independent of the specific chemical composition, connects the BP vibrations to nanometer-scale heterogeneities, providing an experimental benchmark for coarse-grained simulations, structure/rigidity relationships, and engineering of proteins for novel applications.
A novel solution-enhanced dispersion by supercritical CO2 (SEDS) was employed to prepare silk fibroin (SF) nanoparticles. The resulting SF nanoparticles exhibited a good spherical shape, a smooth surface, and a narrow particle size distribution with a mean particle diameter of about 50 nm. The results of X-ray powder diffraction, thermo gravimetry-differential scanning calorimetry, and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy analysis of the SF nanoparticles before and after ethanol treatment indicated conformation transition of SF nanoparticles from random coil to β-sheet form and thus water insolubility. The MTS assay also suggested that the SF nanoparticles after ethanol treatment imposed no toxicity. A non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug, indomethacin (IDMC), was chosen as the model drug and was encapsulated in SF nanoparticles by the SEDS process. The resulting IDMC–SF nanoparticles, after ethanol treatment, possessed a theoretical average drug load of 20%, an actual drug load of 2.05%, and an encapsulation efficiency of 10.23%. In vitro IDMC release from the IDMC–SF nanoparticles after ethanol treatment showed a significantly sustained release over 2 days. These studies of SF nanoparticles indicated the suitability of the SF nanoparticles prepared by the SEDS process as a biocompatible carrier to deliver drugs and also the feasibility of using the SEDS process to reach the goal of co-precipitation of drug and SF as composite nanoparticles for controlled drug delivery.
Genetically engineered spider silk‐like block copolymers were studied to determine the influence of polyalanine domain size on secondary structure. The role of polyalanine block distribution on β ‐sheet formation was explored using FT‐IR and WAXS. The number of polyalanine blocks had a direct effect on the formation of crystalline β ‐sheets, reflected in the change in crystallinity index as the blocks of polyalanines increased. WAXS analysis confirmed the crystalline nature of the sample with the largest number of polyalanine blocks. This approach provides a platform for further exploration of the role of specific amino acid chemistries in regulating the assembly of β ‐sheet secondary structures, leading to options to regulate material properties through manipulation of this key component in spider silks.
magnified image
Synopsis--The color of mammalian HAIRS is due mainly to the inclusion of discrete, darkly colored MELANIN granules in the keratinized cytoplasmic protein of the fiber-forming cells. During BLEACHING the melanin pigment undergoes irreversible physicochemical changes which result either in the toning down or complete elimination of the original fiber color. The modification of the fiber protein (KERATIN) attendant upon bleaching is largely confined to the oxidation of combined CYSTINE. The cysteic acid residues formed in this reaction cause a significant change in the distribution of electrostatic cross links.
Objectives:
The objective of this work was to develop a new strategy to physically 'repair' chemically damaged hair. Hence the human eye γD-crystallin, a protein from the superfamily characterized structurally by the Greek key motif, was studied. The human γD-crystallin was chosen based on the ability of proteins belonging to this superfamily to be involved in the coating of specific structures. Two crystallins were used on the study, the wild type (Protein Data Bank ID: 1HK0) and the mutant protein. The mutant form was intended to induce a strong and quick protein polymerization as well to have new possible points of anchorage to hair.
Methods:
The ability of both crystallins to bind to damaged hair and even penetrate into its cortex was checked by fluorescence microscopy, confocal microscopy and scanning electron microscopy. Furthermore the reinforcement of hair mechanical resistance, the potential cytotoxic/inflammatory effect of crystallins were studied in order to have a fully comprehension about the protein based formulation.
Results:
Although the chemical over-bleaching treatment induced a decrease of 20% on the resistance of the hair, the crystallins which bind and penetrate the hair fibre were able to recover and even to improve its mechanical properties when compared to the virgin hair. Moreover none of the crystallins displayed a toxic effect in fibroblasts for all the range of tested concentrations upon 72 h of exposure. The active aggregation process of mutant crystallin induced an inflammatory response in fibroblasts in the first 24 h of contact, measured by the amount of released pro-inflammatory cytokine IL-6 to the medium. In contrast contact with wild type crystallin did not lead to significant inflammation.
Conclusion:
Outcome from protein formulation characterization supports the hypothesis that the γD-crystallin it is able to recover and improve the mechanical properties of chemical damaged hair. Therefore it can be considered as a very promising strengthening agent for the development of new restorative hair care products.
Tribological properties are useful in the study of human hair and other biological materials. Major sources of investigation for conditioner treated hair includes localization of conditioner, mechanisms related to changes in surface roughness, friction, and adhesion on the nanoscale due to conditioner agents, and how the products change the microstructure of the cuticle. The paper presents nanotribological studies investigating surface roughness, friction, and adhesion using atomic force/friction force microscopy (AFM/FFM). Test samples include virgin and chemically damaged hair, both with and without commercial conditioner treatment, as well as chemically damaged hair with experimental conditioner treatments. Friction force mapping provides insight into the localized change in friction caused by the application of hair care materials. Adhesive force maps to study adhesion on the cuticle. surface provide information about localization and distribution of conditioner as well. A discussion is presented on these properties of hair as a function of relative humidity, temperature, durability, and conditioning treatments. (c) 2005 American Vacuum Society.
Human hair is a nanocomposite biological fiber. Hair care products such as shampoos and conditioners, along with damaging processes such as chemical dyeing and permanent wave treatments, affect the maintenance and grooming process and are important to study because they alter many hair properties. Nanoscale characterization of the cellular structure, mechanical properties, and morphological, frictional, and adhesive properties (tribological properties) of hair are essential to evaluate and develop better cosmetic products, and to advance the understanding of biological and cosmetic science. The atomic/friction force microscope (AFM/FFM) and nanoindenter have become important tools for studying the micro/nanoscale properties of human hair. In this review article, we present a comprehensive review of structural, mechanical, and tribological properties of various hair and skin as a function of ethnicity, damage, conditioning treatment, and various environments.
Progress in understanding the mechanisms of skin sensitization, provides us with the opportunity to develop in vitro tests as an alternative to in vivo sensitization testing. Keratinocytes play a key role in all phases of skin sensitization. We have recently identified interleukin-18 (IL-18) production in keratinocyte as a potentially useful endpoint for determination of contact sensitization potential of low molecular weight chemicals. The aim of the present article is to further exploit the performance of the NCTC 2544 assay. NCTC 2544 is a commercially available skin epithelial-like cell line originating from normal human skin, which posses a good expression of cytochrome P450-dependent enzymatic activities. Cells were exposed to contact allergens (2-bromo-2-bromomethyl glutaronitrile, cinnamaldehyde, citral, diethylmaleate, dinitrochlorobenzene, glyoxal, 2-mercaptobenzothiazole, nickel sulfate, 4-nitrobenzylbromide, oxazolone, penicillin G, resorcinol, tetramethylthiuram disulfide), to pre- pro-haptens (cinnamyl alcohol, eugenol, isoeugenol, p-phenylediamine), to respiratory allergens (ammonium hexachloroplatinate, diphenylmethane diisocyanate, glutaraldehyde, hexamethylenediisocyanate, maleic anhydride, trimellitic anhydride) and to irritants (benzaldehyde, cholorobenzene, diethylphtalate, hydrobenzoic acid, lactic acid, octanoic acid, phenol, salicylic acid, sodium lauryl sulphate, sulfamic acid). Cell associated IL-18 was evaluated 24 later by ELISA. At not-cytotoxic concentrations (cell viability higher of 80%, as assessed by MTT reduction assay), all contact sensitizers, including pre-pro-haptens, induced a dose-related increase in IL-18, whereas both irritants, with the exception of sulfamic acid, and respiratory allergens failed. A total of 33 chemicals were tested, with an overall accuracy of 97%. Overall, results obtained indicated that cell-associated IL-18 might provide an in vitro tool for identification and discrimination of contact vs. respiratory allergens and/or irritants.
The first modern approach to relate fundamental research to the applied science of colloids, this series bridges academic research and industrial applications, thus providing the information vital to both. Written by the very best scientists in their respective disciplines, the five volumes are edited by an internationally recognized expert on this topic. This volume describes the role of colloids in cosmetics and personal care, highlighting the importance of fundamental research in practical applications. Of interest to electrochemists, physical and surface chemists, materials scientists, and physicists.
Silk fibroin has been successfully used as a biomaterial for tissue regeneration. To prepare silk fibroin biomaterials for human implantation a series of processing steps are required to purify the protein. Degumming to remove inflammatory sericin is a crucial step related to biocompatibility and variability in the material. Detailed characterization of silk fibroin degumming is reported. The degumming conditions significantly affected cell viability on the silk fibroin material and the ability to form three-dimensional porous scaffolds from the silk fibroin, but did not affect macrophage activation or β-sheet content in the materials formed. Methods are also provided to determine the content of residual sericin in silk fibroin solutions and to assess changes in silk fibroin molecular weight. Amino acid composition analysis was used to detect sericin residuals in silk solutions with a detection limit between 1.0 and 10% wt/wt, while fluorescence spectroscopy was used to reproducibly distinguish between silk samples with different molecular weights. Both methods are simple and require minimal sample volume, providing useful quality control tools for silk fibroin preparation processes.
Wool and silk were dissolved and used for the preparation of blended films. Two systems are proposed: (1) blend films of silk fibroin and keratin aqueous solutions and (2) silk fibroin and keratin dissolved in formic acid. The FTIR spectra of pure films cast from aqueous solutions indicated that the keratin secondary structure mainly consists of alpha-helix and random coil conformations. The IR spectrum of pure SF is characteristic of films with prevalently amorphous structure (random coil conformation). Pure keratin film cast from formic acid shows an increase in the amount of beta-sheet and disordered keratin structures. The FTIR pattern of SF dissolved in formic acid is characteristic of films with prevalently beta-sheet conformations with beta-sheet crystallites embedded in an amorphous matrix. The thermal behavior of the blends confirmed the FTIR results. DSC curve of pure SF is typical of amorphous SF and the curve of pure keratin show the characteristic melting peak of alpha-helices for the aqueous system. These patterns are no longer observed in the films cast from formic acid due to the ability of formic acid to induce crystallization of SF and to increase the amount of beta-sheet structures on keratin. The nonlinear trend of the different parameters obtained from FTIR analysis and DSC curves of both SF/keratin systems indicate that when proteins are mixed they do not follow additives rules but are able to establish intermolecular interactions. Degradable polymeric biomaterials are preferred candidates for medical applications. It was investigated the degradation behavior of both SF/keratin systems by in vitro enzymatic incubation with trypsin. The SF/keratin films cast from water underwent a slower biological degradation than the films cast from formic acid. The weight loss obtained is a function of the amount of keratin in the blend. This study encourages the further investigation of the type of matrices presented here to be applied whether in scaffolds for tissue engineering or as controlled release drug delivery vehicles.
Human hair is a nanocomposite biological fiber with well-characterized microstructures. Nanomechanical characterization of human hair can help to evaluate the effect of cosmetic products on hair surface, can provide a better understanding of the physicochemical properties of a wide variety of composite biological systems, and can provide the dermatologists with some useful markers for the diagnosis of hair disorders. The paper presents systematic studies of nanomechanical properties of human hair including hardness, elastic modulus and creep, using the nanoindentation technique. The samples include Caucasian, Asian and African hair at virgin, chemo-mechanically damaged and treated conditions. Hair morphology was studied using scanning electron microscopy (SEM). Indentation experiments were performed on both the surface and cross-section of the hair, and the indents were studied using SEM. The nanomechanical properties of hair as a function of hair composition, microstructure, ethnicity, damage and treatment are discussed.
Infrared spectroscopy is one of the oldest and well established experimental techniques for the analysis of secondary structure
of polypeptides and proteins. It is convenient, non-destructive, requires less sample preparation, and can be used under a
wide variety of conditions. This review introduces the recent developments in Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy
technique and its applications to protein structural studies. The experimental skills, data analysis, and correlations between
the FTIR spectroscopic bands and protein secondary structure components are discussed. The applications of FTIR to the secondary
structure analysis, conformational changes, structural dynamics and stability studies of proteins are also discussed.
The management of trauma-associated nerve defects is difficult because of the absence of autologous donor motor or sensory nerves. Pre-clinical development and clinical experience has shown that damaged nerves can be surgically repaired using a tubular conduit interposed across the defect. Acceptable patient outcomes are achieved so long as the gap distance does not exceed a few centimeters. Although research in animals has demonstrated that nerve repair can be facilitated across slightly larger gaps by introducing a biomaterial filler into the conduit lumen, these biomaterials are not typically "neuroinductive" (i.e. capable of acting directly on regenerative cells to enhance nerve tissue formation beyond clinical limits). Moreover, their use does not often result in functional recovery equivalent to nerve autograft, the clinical gold standard. Here we show that a biomaterial gel made from the proteins found in human hair can mediate a robust nerve regeneration response, in part through activation of Schwann cells. In vitro, keratins extracted from human hair enhance the activity of Schwann cells by a chemotactic mechanism, increase their attachment and proliferation, and up-regulate expression of important genes. Moreover, these characteristics translate to improved functional nerve recovery in an animal model. These results suggest that a biomaterial derived from human hair keratins is neuroinductive and can facilitate an outcome comparable to autograft in a nerve injury model.
The palmitoyl pentapeptide palmitoyl-lysine-threonine-threonine-lysine-serine (pal-KTTKS) is a synthetic material that was designed as a topical agent to stimulate collagen production and thus provide a skin anti-wrinkle benefit. To determine if pal-KTTKS is effective, the clinical study reported here was conducted. Caucasian female subjects (n = 93, aged 35–55) participated in a 12-week, double-blind, placebo-controlled, split-face, left–right randomized clinical study assessing two topical products: moisturizer control product vs. the same moisturizer product containing 3 ppm pal-KTTKS. Pal-KTTKS was well tolerated by the skin and provided significant improvement vs. placebo control for reduction in wrinkles/fine lines by both quantitative technical and expert grader image analysis. In self-assessments, subjects also reported significant fine line/wrinkle improvements and noted directional effects for other facial improvement parameters.
Le pentapeptide palmitoyl-lysine-thréonine-lysine-sérine (pal-KTTKS) est un composé synthétique décrit comme agent topique stimulant la production de collagène et possédant donc des propriétés anti-rides. L'efficacité du pal-KTTKL a étéévaluée dans l’étude clinique faisant l'objet de cet article. Des femmes de type caucasien (n = 93, de 35 à 55 ans) ont participé pendant 12 semaines à un test en double aveugle avec placébo, en apparié par demie face comparant deux produits topiques: un produit témoin hydratant et le même produit contenant 3 ppm de pal-KTTKS. Bien toléré par la peau, le pal-KTTKS a montré par rapport au témoin, une amélioration significative dans la réduction des rides et ridules que se soit par des techniques quantitatives et par l'analyse d'image quantifiée par un expert. Dans le cadre d'auto-évaluations, les sujets ont fait état d'améliorations significatives et attiré l'attention sur des effets pouvant servir de pistes pour d'autres paramètres d'amélioration faciale.
Poloxamer: a novel functional molecule for drug delivery and gene therapy
- D R Devi
- P Sandhya
- B N Hari
Devi, D.R., Sandhya, P. and Hari, B.N.V.
Poloxamer: a novel functional molecule for
drug delivery and gene therapy. J. Pharm.
Sci. Res. 5, 159-165 (2013).
Role of polyalanine domains in b
- O S Rabotyagova
- P Cebe
- D L Kaplan
Rabotyagova, O.S., Cebe, P. and Kaplan,
D.L. Role of polyalanine domains in b-.
Macromol. Biosci. 10, 49-59 (2010).
The Science and Engineering of Materials, 6th edn
- D R Askeland
- P P Fulay
- W J Wright
Askeland, D.R., Fulay, P.P. and Wright,
W.J. The Science and Engineering of Materials,
6th edn. Cengage Learning, Boston (2010).
- A Vasconcelos
- G Freddi
- A Cavaco-Paulo
Role of polyalanine domains in b-
- Rabotyagova