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All content in this area was uploaded by Dr. S. Aishwariya on Mar 30, 2020
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Volume 8 • Issue 3 • 1000356J Textile Sci Eng, an open access journal
ISSN: 2165-8064
Research Article Open Access
Aishwariya, J Textile Sci Eng 2018, 8:3
DOI: 10.4172/2165-8064.1000356
Review Article Open Access
Journal of Textile Science & Engineering
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ISSN: 2165-8064
Keywords: Perfume; Fragrance; Aroma; Fashion accessory; Perfume
types
History
Humans always loved good smell and associated it with cleanliness,
good health, clean spirit and a sign of prosperity and luxury. Until
fourteenth century, bathing was seen as danger for health and soon aer
the bathing they wrapped them with scented cloth. Chewing specic
herbs for bad breathe; spraying of aromatic powder for hair was part of
beauty regime. But the ancient humans did not appreciate bathing or
getting rid of bad odour for a very long time. In fact, the fear of water
and bathing was prevalent. Hygiene was maintained through public
bathing in river, ponds or by upper class people in the washtubs or royal
public bath mostly involving olive oil as a key ingredient. Good smell
was rst used in the home to keep the living space enriched with good
smell (Figure 1) followed by invention of aroma oils and perfumes for
human use. at led to perfumery in the later stage.
Perfumes were used in very old times in the history. In the bible,
it was said that three wise men brought myrrh and frankincense to
see and bless baby Jesus. On the other hand Mohammed, the moslem
prophet comments that perfumes are like foods to reawaken one’s spirit.
In India, the Mughalian period fragrances was irony to be used in the
court room, during special moments and also to get rid of evil spirit in
spiritual performances. Married women had a tradition of taking up the
smoke in between the legs to ensure good odour and any germs that can
cause illness. Even today the new borns aer giving a hot bath are shown
in avoured smoke that is said to dry out the water accumulated in the
Abstract
Fashion in a meeker way will be enumerated as the science of appearance. The phrase is inclusive of the
factor that it is combination of how the person is and in terms of his personality along with the aroma he chooses
to wear based on his traits. In the olden day’s good smell and personality: or in specic, the type of person and the
choice of fragrance have been given as special eye to judge a person. Perfumes are extremely signicant in the
eld of fashion, since it’s expels the reection of glamour and luxury of that individual. Twentieth century is raising
more professionals in all elds and perfumes are getting more into limelight by serving as an essential accessory in
fashion. This paper is crafted with an objective to cover the history of perfumes, the trends in each country, the raw
material used in perfume making, methods to apply the perfume and ways to store the perfume to ensure longer life
and better impact.
Voyage of Fragrances and Fashion
Aishwariya S*
Department of Textiles and Clothing, Avinashilingam University, Coimbatore, Tamil Nadu, India
*Corresponding author: Aishwariya S, Assistant Professor, Department of
Textiles and Clothing, Avinashilingam University, Coimbatore, Tamil Nadu, India,
Tel: 0-87549-03069; E-mail: aishu55@gmail.com
Received April 12, 2018; Accepted April 19, 2018; Published April 29, 2018
Citation:
Aishwariya S (2018) Voyage of Fragrances and Fashion. J Textile Sci
Eng 8: 356. doi: 10.4172/2165-8064.1000356
Copyright: © 2018 Aishwariya S. This is an open-access article distributed under
the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License, which permits unrestricted
use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original author and
source are credited.
facial regions and to eradicate germs. Muslim prophets visit shops
in India, where ignited charcoal with fragrance granules sprinkled
over it releases a therapeutic smoke which is alleged to eradicate any
malevolent spirit in that space and also bring in good fortune.
Egyptians and perfumery
Ancient Egyptians had a great passion for aroma. Even aer so
many centuries, the tombs still hold the same aroma it had when it
was packed and sealed. Cleopatra and her vibrant perfume collection
was also a remarkable one in the history. Men, women and priests
had the tradition of wearing perfume oils on them during rituals and
special occasions. ree drops of perfume were worn with prayers by
the Egyptians. One drop on the centre of forehead and one drop each
behind the ears, seeking blessing for love, happiness and immortality
[1] (Figure 1).
Traditionally they used ‘Kyphi’, small incense which was a
combination of henna, myrrh, cinnamon, and juniper burned as part
of religious oering to their Gods. e art of making essential oil and
aroma therapy was explored in every manner by them which made
them the masters of the perfume world till date. Body lotion was made
by soaking aromatic wood, gum, resin, oil and water which was used by
the kings and queen in Egypt. ey perfumed perfumes were the key to
open the soul both when alive and aer dead [2].
e popular Egyptian tradition called mummication is a ritual
done for the dead, where the body is processed and prepared for
aerlife. Perfumes played an imperative role in sealing the skin,
masking the odour and holding the moisture of the skin for a longer
time [3]. During the process layers of linen cut, soaked in the aromatic
oils and wrapped on the dead.
e tradition of perfumes has distinct history in each region.
Figure 1: Egyptian lady using vapours for her house to awaken good spirits
in the house.
Citation: Aishwariya S (2018) Voyage of Fragrances and Fashion. J Textile Sci Eng 8: 356. doi: 10.4172/2165-8064.1000356
Page 2 of 4
Volume 8 • Issue 3 • 1000356J Textile Sci Eng, an open access journal
ISSN: 2165-8064
Romans were having a rage for rose petals and rose water that every
room in the palace had a bowl with rose petals that helped in serving as
an air diuser. e lunacy went high were the guests in the dining area
were greeted by the falling rose petals from the ceiling that did result in
accidents and an unpleasant scenario (Figure 2) [4-6].
Rome and Europe
Romans had applied the perfumes to all their pets so the fragrance
is taken throughout the locality. Crushed strawberry and perfume milk
bath was a huge trend. Hungary water, the rst perfume was made
by distilling rosemary with brandy. e distillation of rose in conical
condensers began in the sixteenth century. In Europe, the rst perfume
with alcohol was designed for Queen Elizabeth. She thought the good
smell can kill diseases and ordered the public places to be scented as
part of health regime [7,8].
France
Queen Victoria of France during her sovereignty had a strong
aversion for anything loud and strong. is applied to the fragrance
industry as well. Milder notes of Jasmine, lavender, roses, honeysuckle,
marjoram, thyme, rosemary, and clove were used among the royal
family [9,10]. Perfumed gloves were a huge trend.
Louis XIV of France was named as the sweetest smelling king of
all times, due to his ideas in application of perfumes during his reign.
It is said that he had a great fear for water since those days the major
means of diseases being spread was water. e king is also said to have
bathed only thrice in his entire life time. It is also alleged that he was
the rst person to introduce “Aqua Angeli” fabric conditioners that was
a mixture aloe wood, nutmeg, storax, cloves, benzoin, orange ower
water, jasmine and musk soaked in rose water. It is so enchanting to
know that his palace was ordered to have a specic smell every week. It
is believed that his guests were insisted to be bathed with a perfumed
liquid which was a combination of goat’s milk and rose water [11,12]
(Figure 3).
France people always had a huge anity towards perfumery. e
story of the great warrior Napoleon Bonaparte tells us how much he
loved the smell of jasmine/rosemary, that he uses at least sixty bottles
per month. Leather industry was getting popular in France. e foul
odour of the workers made them sick, and to escape that smell started
wearing perfumes [13].
Perfume made popular by Americans
American deodorant companies had a major role in promoting the
perfume business in the early nineteenth century. eir advertisement
campaigns started annexing beauty and good smelling as very basic
attributes of women (Figure 4).
Sources for Making Perfume
Until 18th century, the perfume industry used naturally available
sources like leaf, ower, bark, root and animals tissues were collected,
processed and let to age for a particular time. e commonly available
sources include thyme, lavender, peppermint, cedar, rose, almond oil,
aloe, cinnamon, ox fat, cedar oil, myrrh, cassia, camphor oil, lemon,
daisies, menthol and myrrh [14,15].
With the growth of population and developments in industrial
revolution the chemical formulations that replicate the naturally
available products take a lead. ese are mostly derived from
petrochemicals and has proven to be harmful to health. Today more
than 500 types of fragrances are in the world.
However, Egypt holds the top rank (80%) in exporting the raw
materials (naturally available) to the world perfume centres like Paris,
London, New York and Moscow. e iconic perfume made from the
national ower of Egypt, namely Lotus, is unique in the country and a
special attraction for tourists to buy and own one.
Figure 2: Roman tradition of using rose petals from the walls of the court room
to enhance the aroma in the room and greet the guests with the sweet smell
of rose.
Figure 3: Louis XIV, France was named as the sweetest smelling king of his
era. His rose petal scented furniture, wall, clothing, tableware were iconic.
Figure 4: Advertisements showcasing the women fashion sense is incomplete
without use of good fragrance.
Citation: Aishwariya S (2018) Voyage of Fragrances and Fashion. J Textile Sci Eng 8: 356. doi: 10.4172/2165-8064.1000356
Page 3 of 4
Volume 8 • Issue 3 • 1000356J Textile Sci Eng, an open access journal
ISSN: 2165-8064
Types of Perfumes
Replicating musical notes, fragrances are also referred as top,
middle and base notes. e perfume bottles are given much importance
in designing to reect the contents it hold: light, owery, dark or musky.
Fragrance wheel consist of oral, oriental, woody, aromatic and fresh
notes which basically is the kind of smell one can sense [16] (Figure 5).
e strength of the fragrance is based on the concentration of
perfume oil in it. Based on this the perfumes are classied into Parfum
(20-30% of perfume), Eau de parum (15-20% of perfume), Eau de
toilette (5-15% of perfume), Eau de cologne (2-4%) and Eau fraiche
(1-2%). e above express the concentration of the fragrance and their
names. Parfume is the costliest since it has more of frgraence oil in it.
e remaining percentage is usually the base which is alcohol. Eau
Fraiche is an exceptional that uses water instead of alcohol. Cologne is
usually used by men and Fraiche by women. EDP is the commonly used
every day type of perfume [17] (Figure 6).
Application of Perfumes
Perfumes are usually applied in pulse points where the skin is thin
and once applied creates a natural heat that enable release of aroma. e
points behind the ears, nape of the neck, insides of wrists, base of the
throat, cleavage, elbows and knees. Application of perfume in the comb
and running through the hair was followed by Cleopatra and Marlin
Monroe. While checking the perfume in stores, it is not advisable to
rub the perfume and check the smell as it may break the fragrance
molecules. In case of too much aroma locked up one can smell a cup of
coee beans which eventually clears the nose for testing another new
fragrance [18,19].
Intake of spicy food, being under medication, physiology of the
person, oily/dry skin aects the perfumes quality on a person.
Storing and Maintenance of Perfumes
Glass and aluminium bottles are the best for storing perfumes. A
temperature of 3-7 degree is ideal temperature for storing. Heat, light
and organic substances will aect the perfume while storing.
Current Scenario
Perfume or perfume is derived from Latin which means smoke.
e type of perfume used is seen as a reection of sex, personality,
status and wealth. e application of aroma is not just to the perfume
industry but to various allied industries, that keep the fragrance used
as a trade secret. Certainly, it is the only product that is not necessary
to be listed in the ingredients list of a product cover. Facial wipes, aer
shave lotions, toys, deodorants, diaper, candles, room fresheners, air
diusers to body butter, shower gel and various beauty care products,
the application of aroma in fashion industry is endless.
Figure 5: Classication based on notes.
Figure 6: Perfume classication (Based on the concentration).
Citation: Aishwariya S (2018) Voyage of Fragrances and Fashion. J Textile Sci Eng 8: 356. doi: 10.4172/2165-8064.1000356
Page 4 of 4
Volume 8 • Issue 3 • 1000356J Textile Sci Eng, an open access journal
ISSN: 2165-8064
Conclusion
Sense of smell is a right brain activity. Good smell aects all the
activities done using the right side of the brain namely, creativity and
emotional wellbeing. Aroma oils are used in as part of psychotherapy.
In the world of fashion, certain accessories are listed to be mandatory
among which are perfumes elementary. It can be the life of a model or
a designer, a professional is expected to look and be good during an
interaction. Good odour is seen as an important element in condence
and grooming.
References
1. https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/features/scents-and-
sensibility-the-history-of-perfume-2066108.html
2. https://www.bustle.com/articles/101182-the-strange-history-of-perfume-from-
ancient-roman-foot-fragrance-to-napoleons-cologne
3. https://bespokeunit.com/fragrance/history/
4. https://allgoodscents.com/history-perfume/
5. https://about-france.com/tourism/french-perfume.htm
6. https://perfumesociety.org/discover-perfume/an-introduction/history/
7. https://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/body-fashions/history-perfume
8. McCoy A, Homemade perfume, Page Street Publishing, 2018.
9. Brian M (2011) Fragrances and Perfumes. In Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress
and Fashion. West Europe, edited by Joanne B. Eicher. London: Berg 8: 2-14.
10. Herbalist E, Miller J (2017) History and Traditional Uses.
11. Shrivastava AK (2017) Jaggery in Making Perfumes in Ancient India. Asian
Agri-History 19: 337-340.
12. Sikka SC, Bartolome AR (2018) Perfumery, Essential Oils, and Household
Chemicals Affecting Reproductive and Sexual Health. In Bioenvironmental
Issues Affecting Men's Reproductive and Sexual Health pp: 557-569.
13. https://www.fragrantica.com/notes/
14. https://dappercondential.com/the-history-of-mens-fragrance/
15. www.fashion-era.com/perfume_history.htm
16. www.perfectpotion.com.au/news/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/A4_
MyrrhMonograph_151117.pdf
17. https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=29&v=v71b9BIzrd0
18. https://www.vagabomb.com/Cant-Find-the-Right-Perfume-Heres-an-Easy-
Guide-to-Perfume-Notes-and-Picking-Whats-Best-for-You/
19. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Xl2d3RQMPU