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The sustainability word challenge: Exploring consumer interpretations of frequently used words to promote sustainable fashion brand behaviors and imagery
Abstract
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to examine user perceptions toward consumer-facing words used by fashion brands to stimulate sustainable consumption and post consumption behavior.
Design/methodology/approach
A self-completion, survey based matching exercise was administered to 100 active fashion-shoppers in Hong Kong aged between 18 and 35 years old. A probability sampling method was used for on-street intercepts to ensure a random selection within the defined population. This was accompanied by 20 individual ethnographic interviews.
Findings
A lack of understanding and comprehension of key green language terminology used frequently in user facing communications is problematic for fashion brand marketers as the impact of their messages is often unclear, distributed and more likely to lead to user frustration rather than positive engaged consumer decision making and action. Further, there is an emerging indication that this approach is highly unlikely to enhance knowledge, engagement and action or to influence brand loyalty.
Research limitations/implications
Data were collected in Hong Kong and is culturally bounded, so while providing a good indication of the findings in situ this can also be replicated in other locations.
Practical implications
Recommended outcomes from the findings suggest that brand messages should be delivered that are intended to stimulate sustainability behaviors that are core to one key brand theme so that user outcome decision making and actions fit with the core brand values. This suggested approach will have a greater likelihood of leading to brand trust, responsible business action and greater clarity about the issue of sustainability and related action to be taken on behalf of the user.
Originality/value
The paper raises concerns about the effectiveness and outcomes of fashion brand marketing communications and findings provide insights into the confusion of understanding and the rise in frustration among targeted fashion shoppers 18-35 years, despite the use of frequently used words in brand communications to promote sustainable fashion consumption behaviors.
... The materiality of fashion was grasped by reference to textiles, products that fit (or not) and the system of sustainable fashion. Materiality represents the relationship of people to a given social reality through objects, thus the framing of products plays an important role in understanding the discourse around sustainable fashion Introducing the core terms such as eco-clothing occurred in a groundbreaking article by Beard (2008), while 'ethical concern', or 'fair trade concerns' regarding clothing choice were first explored by Shaw et al. (2006), framed as a marketing problem The results of the text identified that ethical fashion belongs to the cluster of marketing primarily, but is closely connected to the attitude-self dimension, while the words 'landfill site,' are far a less explored aspect The content analysis of this period identified three areas: Moral, consumer, and brand, in which the dimension of the moral consumer was explored and studied in connection with clothing disposal (2), purchase behavior (2), and through the study of attitudes to consumer segmentation (2) (Joergens, 2006 (15) Citation weight of authors revealed fundamental studies on consumer perceptions 1) to luxury (Joy et al., 2012) 2) to slow fashion (Pookulangara & Shephard, 2013) Fashion involvement; ethical concern, perception, ethical purchasing decisions, cycle, brand, and cultureclusters of co-occurrence analysis Tensions related to second-hand, vintage, and luxury (Ferraro et al., 2016;Keim & Wagner, 2018); vintage and slow fashion (Ferraro et al., 2016;Jung & Jin, 2016b, 2016a)results of content-analysis The post-purchase behavior of consumers emerged (Evans & Peirson-Smith, 2018), including recycling and waste management. ...
... SF offered by fast fashion brands has been embraced by consumers, who willingly adopted the idea of consumption framed within mainstreamed sustainability marketing (Chang & Jai, 2015;Neumann et al., 2021;Visser et al., 2015). Consequently, the positive shift in consumer attitudes toward affordable sustainability has further shaped green marketing and branding strategies (Evans & Peirson-Smith, 2018;Peirson-Smith & Evans, 2017;Vehmas et al., 2018). ...
... As an outlook for the future of policy and industry interaction, it can be concluded, that the institutional pressure, or a legal push may drive, outweigh, or complement market-driven adjustments. To develop multilayer societal interventions and to integrate circularity into the fashion system (Bauwens et al., 2020;Domegan et al., 2016) it is important to consider, that regulatory frameworks for circular business models (Wasserbaur et al., 2022), production (Pal et al., 2021) and the fashion market (Blasi et al., 2020;Colasante & D'Adamo, 2021;Evans & Peirson-Smith, 2018;Khitous et al., 2022) are expected to significantly impact and scale up sustainable practices (Pal et al., 2021;Sandberg & Hultberg, 2021). Unquestionably, circularity approaches of integrated strategies across supply chains (Brydges, 2021), and advancements in waste management are crucial growth areas (Xie et al., 2021). ...
Background
Circular fashion presents a new challenge in understanding consumers and marketing. There is a gap in research connecting the different layers of consumer behavior, sustainable fashion, with a systemized view on social marketing.
Focus
This systematic literature review adds value by drawing on the richness of evidence of consumer behavior and sustainable fashion research. The novel, combined method maps out the six key themes, time periods and focal points of the evolution of the field to identify barriers to change and inform social marketing strategies (Action Goals) for a new circular fashion system. Finally, it unpacks the challenges from a systems approach to suggest Research and Policy Recommendations for a circular fashion system, linking the macro, meso and micro levels.
Importance to the Social Marketing Field
This systematic review has applied a systems social marketing approach to set the agenda for future research avenues and identified action goals for social marketing benchmarking.
Research question
This review seeks to investigate existing research to seek for the controversial interpretations and messages about sustainability in the fashion market and the evolving conflicting values of different stakeholders. It unpacks CB in SF, to look for barriers to change.
Method
The study advances the systematic review method by combining scientific mapping and a multi-phase qualitative thematic coding techniques. Quantifying the research trends, along with uncovering the thematic and relational structures has enriched the results and findings.
Result/Recommendations
By unpacking consumer behavior and sustainable fashion to inform about the barriers to transition, this study adds value by embedding fashion into a systems perspective. This study has laid the foundations to support the transformative process for a circular fashion system with Action Goals for Social Marketing, and Research and Policy Recommendations.
... The first aspect, environmental sustainability relates to the impacts caused due to a large amount of energy usage and water consumption; greenhouse gas (GHG) emission; hazardous waste generation; and discharge of toxic effluent containing dyes, finishes and auxiliaries to the eco-system during garment manufacturing [32]. Fashion manufacturing has been recognized as one of the largest environmental polluters as several processes use large quantities of chemicals, water, and auxiliaries [33]. ...
... Similar to the HPLBs; waste generation, excessive usage of natural resources, and negligence of the workforce are some of the major challenges that LBFBs needed to deal with [53]. Many LBFBs are reluctant to incorporate sustainability concepts into their business model due to consumers' demand for good quality and stylish clothing at cheaper price [33]. Therefore, LBFBs were claimed for not caring of the TBL of sustainability that has negatively impacted to their stakeholders [36]. ...
... The more popular is the LBFB in the marketplace, the more vulnerable is the brand towards public criticism over their operation. Since many of the HPLBs have adopted new technologies, using sustainable products and processes; and taking care of their employees in the drive of sustainability [33], it is essential for the LBFBs to follow sustainable models by simultaneously delivering products manufactured with a proper consideration of the TBL of sustainability. ...
This study investigated the current practices and challenges for the sustainable fashion of luxury boutique fashion brands (LBFBs) in Vietnam. A series of in-depth interviews with 20 founders and managers of LBFBs in Vietnam was conducted. Findings show that sustainable practices improve ethnic cultures, strengthen the usage of local resources, promote sustainable lifestyle, and thereby contributing to sustainable development of the boutique fashion brands. However, the brands face some challenges while dealing with their stakeholders such as shortage of available internal resources, bias in consumer perception and purchase behaviors, and legal barriers to achieve accredited environment certification that, in turn, weaken the sustainable practices in the local context. Results also provide some insightful information for small & medium sized enterprises (SMEs) to adjust their sustainability practices in order to improve their competitive advantages in the marketplace.
... (1) upcycled products and (2) products from recycled waste. Upcycled products are made from parts of used clothing, deadstock, or from textile wastes, which can be reassembled and redesigned together to obtain new and unique clothing items (Evans & Peirson-Smith, 2018;Park & Lin, 2020;Soyer & Dittrich, 2021). The second type concerns fashion products made from textile fibers wastesfor example, wool, cotton, synthetic, polyester (Papadopoulou et al., 2021;Roozen et al., 2021)or other wastesfor example, ocean plastic (Kumagai, 2020) or plastic bottles (Kumagai & Nagasawa, 2020;Nguyen, Tran, et al., 2020). ...
... Downcycling (also mentioned as Repurpose) refers to the reuse of an old clothing item, which has reached the end of its life, for a different aim (e.g., use it as a rag) (Evans & Peirson-Smith, 2018;McQueen et al., 2021;Zhang et al., 2020). In this case, consumers can directly recycle their used garment, either in its entirety or by utilizing its specific parts, repurposing it for a different function than originally conceived. ...
The fashion industry accounts for large impacts on the environment and social welfare, both on the consumers' and companies' sides. This study systematically reviews the literature on sustainable consumption in the fashion industry, clarifying sustainable fashion's meaning. Existing sustainable fashion solutions are investigated from consumers' behavior perspective and classified into three consumption phases, that is, (pre‐)purchase, use, and post‐use. 187 articles are included, and twenty‐six sustainable solutions are identified across the consumption phases. These include techniques, features, services, and behaviors able to increase garment sustainability by mitigating negative impacts and ensuring product circularity by recycling and/or reusing at the product's end of life, representing promising strategies for fostering a transition toward sustainable fashion consumption practices. An innovative and comprehensive framework of sustainable fashion solutions is developed. Future research agenda and a sustainable offering inventory for marketers are provided.
... Concrete information, in this context, refers to specific details about the product's sustainability features, making it easier for consumers to understand and evaluate the brand's commitment to sustainability (Evans & Peirson-Smith, 2018;Kim & Hall, 2015;Lim, 2019;Pracejus et al., 2003;Thomas, 2008). This could be signaling the materials used, the manufacturing processes employed, or the environmental certifications obtained (Williams & Hodges, 2022). ...
... One group received concrete product information (see Figure 2), in which concrete material and production process was described (Williams & Hodges, 2022). The other group got abstract product information (see Figure 3), where abstract terms like "environmentally friendly" and "green" (Evans & Peirson-Smith, 2018) were used to describe the material and production process. The respondents were roughly equally distributed among the two groups. ...
This study examines the relationship between trust and pride and their collective influence on sustainable consumption within the fashion industry. We hypothesized that concrete marketing communications would enhance consumer trust, which in turn would directly, and indirectly via increased pride, encourage sustainable consumption intentions. Through an experimental design involving 199 participants, we tested the effects of concrete versus abstract sustainability claims on trust, pride, and sustainable consumption intentions such as word-of-mouth endorsement and the willingness to buy sustainable products. Our findings show concrete (as opposed to abstract) marketing information significantly strengthen trust, and that trust directly encourage sustainable consumption intentions and indirectly promotes them by boosting pride. This dual pathway underscores the crucial role of trust in sustainable fashion marketing, serving as both a direct motivator of consumption intentions and a catalyst for generating pride. Our study offers valuable insights for marketers on effectively communicating sustainability and fostering genuine consumer engagement with sustainable fashion.
... The fashion industry has seen profound changes in the digital era, opening new avenues for influencing public opinion, particularly regarding sustainable fashion. Evans & Peirson-Smith (2018) [25] highlight how the vague use of 'green' terminology in marketing often leads to consumer confusion and dissatisfaction, which can undermine efforts to foster sustainable behaviors [25]. This complexity underscores the critical need for clearer communication and authentic engagement strategies to effectively shift consumer attitudes and promote sustainability. ...
... The fashion industry has seen profound changes in the digital era, opening new avenues for influencing public opinion, particularly regarding sustainable fashion. Evans & Peirson-Smith (2018) [25] highlight how the vague use of 'green' terminology in marketing often leads to consumer confusion and dissatisfaction, which can undermine efforts to foster sustainable behaviors [25]. This complexity underscores the critical need for clearer communication and authentic engagement strategies to effectively shift consumer attitudes and promote sustainability. ...
The limited understanding of how digital platforms, especially the Metaverse, influence public perception and attitude towards sustainable fashion in large scaled markets such as China highlights a critical gap. This study aims to examine the perspectives and perception of the Chinese public regarding sustainable fashion in the Metaverse. Through content analysis, this study evaluated 3,889 Weibo posts from Shanghai Fashion Week 2024 to identify key sentiments and discussions on sustainable and digital fashion. Results indicate that 76.08% of the conversations centered on sustainable fashion, reflecting strong public commitment to environmental issues. The findings highlight characteristics of public perception towards the utilization of immersive technologies and underscore the Metaverse's potential as a platform for fostering environmental consciousness in the fashion industry. This research provides crucial insights for fashion brands looking to integrate sustainability into their digital strategies, addressing a significant gap in current literature and offering practical guidance for leveraging digital platforms to promote sustainable consumption.
... The role of socio-cultural elements, such as altruism and social influence, on consumers' purchase intention has been studied [4], [13], [18], [20]. Recent studies on consumer environmental awareness and buying behavior indicate that those who prioritize environmental concerns are more likely to buy products from eco-friendly businesses [10], [20], [24]. ...
... In addition, [20] found that consumers who actively pursue self-improvement and willingly confront the associated difficulties often have a high level of awareness of environmental (ecological) concerns and adopt an ecologically responsible way of life. Moreover, customers that are environmentally aware are more inclined to participate in eco-fashion buying habits [10]. To comprehend customers' inclination to purchase environmentally sustainable products, it is essential to be cognizant of the environmental obstacles [24]. ...
Indonesia is responsible for the generation of approximately 2.3 million tonnes of textile waste, which accounts for approximately 12% of the total household waste produced in the country. The emergence of a multitude of eco-friendly clothing brands in Indonesia is indicative of the growing development of the eco-friendly fashion industry in the country. There have been expressions of concern pertaining to the variables that contribute to the inclination to acquire environmentally friendly textile products. The objective of this research is to assess the influence of altruism, social influence, and environmental concern on the purchasing intentions of Generation Z towards environmentally friendly clothing within the Greater Jakarta area. The methodology employed for data collection involved the distribution of a questionnaire to a sample of 188 Generation Z consumers residing in the Greater Jakarta area. Subsequently, the collected data was subjected to analysis utilizing the SPSS software and a multi-regression analysis technique. The findings of the study indicate that purchase intention is significantly influenced by altruism and environmental concern, whereas social influence does not have a significant impact. One potential consequence of this finding is the potential for the environmentally conscious clothing industry to advance through more effective marketing campaigns aimed at bolstering customer purchase intention. This study is able to provide practical insights for businesses, with a specific focus on the production of environmentally sustainable clothing items.
... The impact of fashion brand marketers' messages is frequently ambiguous, dispersed, and more likely to result in user frustration than positive consumer decision-making. It occurs due to a lack of knowledge and grasp of key green language terminology often used in fashion marketing communication [65]. This, in turn, affects brand knowledge and brand loyalty. ...
... In contrast, SF brands lack such brand recall. Future research can focus on key green language terminology for the efficient branding of SF [65]. ...
The fashion industry is one of the largest contributors to greenhouse gas emissions and climate change. Sustainable fashion (SF) aims to address this issue by designing, creating, and marketing socially and environmentally responsible products. This paper provides a broad overview of the extant literature on SF marketing to understand the trends and future directions. The paper starts with a discussion on sustainable consumption and marketing in the particular context of fashion and ends with potential research gaps, which have scope for further work. For the analysis, 97 research papers were selected based on a structured, systematic search with a particular set of keywords. The review finds that marketing SF from a customer’s perspective has been emphasized in the existing literature. Widely studied topics include consumer behavior, purchase behavior, and the attitude–behavior gap. Further research is required to explore how SF can gain from B2B marketing, circular economy, sustainability-oriented innovations, and subsistence markets, particularly in emerging economies. This paper contributes to theory and practice by providing state-of-the-art sustainable fashion marketing research, identifying research gaps, and providing future research directions.
... Media discourse surrounding fashion and the environment tends to focus on the negative, emphasising the problems that exist across the various stages of the lifecycle of a garment [1,2]. Although consumers are increasingly aware of at least some of the issues, research suggests that the scale and complexity of the problem can lead to detachment and uncertainty around how to adapt our own behaviour in response [3]. However, in the last year, there has been a shift in fashion media coverage towards exploring some of the sustainable solutions that exist, e.g., in Vogue [4] and Marie Claire [5]. ...
... This would provide insights into people's feelings and motivations. Content and textual analysis are common forms of primary data collection when carrying out research in the areas of communication [3,14], particularly in relation to social media [26] and fashion [35]. ...
Media discourse surrounding fashion and sustainability tends to be negative, emphasising the problems that exist across the various stages of the lifecycle of a garment. Although consumers are increasingly aware of at least some of the issues surrounding fashion and the environment, research suggests that the scale and complexity of the problem causes them to feel detached and uncertain about how to adapt their own behaviour in response. This research positions Instagram as a digital media platform through which sustainable fashion is communicated and experienced through augmented fashion content. Instagram is recognised for its significant impact on visual culture, particularly within aesthetic sectors such as fashion. Recent research reveals that users have begun engaging in more serious subjects and debates on Instagram, including political, social, and environmental issues. This has brought about opportunities for new voices who are championing sustainable fashion in its variety of manifestations. An open qualitative analysis was carried out using the hashtag #SustainableFashion to uncover themes relating to the types of content, stakeholders, and mechanisms that are being used to augment sustainable fashion on Instagram. The findings reveal a positive community of content creators—including vintage enthusiasts, designers, makers and brands—who are using the hashtag regularly to share proactive content in the form of specific, targeted messages around sustainable fashion solutions. The aim was to uncover the discussions that are taking place right now and provide grounding for future work in this area.
... In response to these concerns, brands have begun to move toward the manufacture of more eco-friendly products . Meanwhile, the trend toward ethical fashion has persuaded retailers to engage in the field and take action (Karadayi-Usta, 2022) to manage the planet's resources using sustainability strategies (Evans and Peirson-Smith, 2018). These developments have also led to a growing interest in studying PIEF as a major research line. ...
... In addition, Sadeghi et al. (2022) found that the consumers who make an effort for self-improvement and enjoy the challenges they face in this effort are often aware of environmental (ecological) issues and follow a lifestyle sensitive to the environment. Further, consumers who tend to have eco-friendly behavior are more willing to engage in eco-fashion consumption behavior (Evans and Peirson-Smith, 2018). Therefore, knowledge of environmental concerns is a prerequisite to understanding consumers' willingness to purchase eco-friendly products (Sobuj et al., 2021). ...
Purpose
This study aims to examine the effect of social influence, environmental concerns and altruism on consumer purchase intention of eco-fashion (PIEF). In addition, this study, exploring the essential behavioral outcomes influenced in marketing, seeks to deepen the existing insight in this area.
Design/methodology/approach
To obtain the required data, the authors surveyed a group of people with previous experience in the purchase of eco-friendly apparel. The research hypotheses were tested using the structural equation modeling technique.
Findings
According to the results, social influence had the most significant impact on PIEF. Also, environmental concerns and altruism had a significant effect on PIEF. The results further indicated that eco-fashion purchase intention, in turn, influenced consumer willingness to engage in eWOM and pay a price premium.
Practical implications
The results of the present study guide marketing practitioners for the segmentation of target consumers, as the information on consumers’ natural needs and desires in a socio-cultural context is of significant use to fashion managers to understand their customers deeply. This information also helps them discover better ways of designing their marketing campaigns.
Originality/value
This paper contributes to research by advancing an understanding of how consumers make eco-fashion consumption decisions in purchasing apparel and provides businesses with managerial insights into devising marketing strategies to promote eco-fashion consumption, which facilitates fashion companies’ development of a sustainable fashion supply chain.
... The factors for this gap were listed as the price of goods, considerations about design, and lack of access to sustainable choices (Tey, Brindal, & Dibba, 2018). Additionally, studies suggested that lack of sustainability literacy and credible information about the sustainability of fashion products reduce consumers' willingness and ability to pursue their favourable inclinations about sustainability (Evans & Peirson-Smith, 2018;Magnuson, Reimers, & Chao, 2016;Noh & Johnson, 2019). ...
... Specifically, technical details on sustainability parameters and procedural knowledge such as production methods, material and substances were often found to be too complex for the average consumer. Consumers considered complex sustainability information to be exhausting and reported that such information reduces their motivation to seek sustainable options (Evans & Peirson-Smith, 2018). ...
The hazardous impact of the fashion industry has prompted institutions, manufacturers, and brands to provide more sustainable conditions. However, many consumers have little of knowledge about sustainable fashion products and procedures. This study provides findings on fashion consumers’ informational needs on sustainability, and strategies for communicating sustainable fashion product information. The data comes from six focus group meetings and two conference workshops. The findings indicate that consumers generally think of sustainability in fashion as related to five criteria: material and procedure, environmental impact, animal welfare, human welfare, and product care. Furthermore, the findings underscore four related but distinct consumer personas (named by the researchers: romantic optimists, egocentrics, confused Alecs, and gloomies) based on their informational needs, motivation to increase sustainability literacy, and sustainability-related behaviour in fashion. These personas and criteria can be utilised to segment consumers and tailor communication and marketing strategies to enhance fashion consumers’ sustainable behaviour.
... The resource-driven perspective in the literature addresses consumers' knowledge and awareness and can be located by exploring sustainable, luxury, branding, supply chain and socially responsible practices. Within the area of sustainable luxury, the literature argues that consumer awareness and knowledge about sustainable products are limited (Evans and Peirson-Smith 2018), and this psychological imbalance (attitude-intention gap) needs to be addressed to turn pro-environmental personal norms (PN) and sustainability concerns into practice (Han et al. 2017). Unsustainable consumption (in the area of luxury brands) is shown as the outcome of the power given to product designers and the practices of retailers and brand marketing (Athwal et al. 2019). ...
... Second, using DJPK as a construct to define consumers' persuasive psychological factors to adopt luxury fashion (denim jeans) is an additional novel attribute of this study. Consumer knowledge about the supply-side had previously been researched, for example, by Evans and Peirson-Smith (2018), who emphasised the role of brands in enhancing consumers' knowledge while mapping sustainable consumption. Moreover, De Angelis et al. (2017) suggested that luxury brands should adopt more innovative designs to increase green consumption since consumer knowledge is limited. ...
Every pair of denim jeans produced contributes 33.4 kg of CO2 into the atmosphere, consumes 3781 L of water, and occupies 12 m² of land to support its production. The consumption patterns and consumption behaviour of consumers are both vital determinants of their environmental performance and impact. This paper examines the environmental concerns, production knowledge, and related cognitive measures of consumers by mapping their intentions in the process of buying denim jeans. Consumers of denim jeans in mainland China were taken as a sample to achieve our research objective. Specifically, 1392 respondents were quantitatively investigated. The empirical results indicate that production knowledge, the ascription of responsibility, buying attitude, and personal norms are dominant factors in explaining consumers' buying intentions when purchasing denim jeans. Furthermore, we find that the relationship between cognitive factors and buying intentions is mediated by affordability. This study highlights the immediate need to measure the denim industry's ecological footprint (during the production phase) and communicate this to critical industry stakeholders (i.e. macro-level forces, environmentalists, current and potential consumers). The intention is to redefine the purchasing behaviour of future consumers of denim jeans.
... upcycling scenario , autonomy allows consumers to make decisions aligned with their personal values and preferences, promoting the intention to adopt more sustainable practices (Wilson, 2016). Empowerment derived from the ability to rethink, redesign and reuse materials can increase consumer intention to practice upcycling , as they realize their active role in promoting sustainability (Evans & Peirson -Smith, 2018). ...
Objective: The aim of this study is to investigate the predictors that influence consumer intention to adopt upcycling practices in Brazil. Theoretical Framework: Upcycling emerges as an innovative consumption approach, standing out as a more sustainable alternative compared to traditional methods of goods production. Method: The research adopted a quantitative methodology, using a survey to assess consumers' perceptions of upcycling. Multivariate data analysis and structural equation modeling were applied to identify correlations between the proposed constructs and gain insights into participants' perspectives. Results and Discussion: The results indicate that the factors positively predicting consumer willingness to engage in upcycling are, in order of influence: behavioral intention, followed by the role of beliefs and perceived facilitating conditions, which include skills, knowledge, and inspiration. Research Implications: The research makes a theoretical contribution by providing valuable insights, derived from primary data, into consumers' perceptions of their willingness to engage in upcycling. Practically, the study offers significant implications for management and public policies by promoting a more sustainable consumption approach, raising environmental awareness, and generating tangible social benefits. Originality/Value: The study advances the development of the proposed theoretical model by including and analyzing the influence of predictive factors such as autonomy, empowerment, and entrepreneurial opportunities in the creation of new businesses. The results demonstrate that these factors play crucial roles and make significant contributions to the advancement of consumer behavior theory, deepening the understanding of this phenomenon in practice and promoting more sustainable consumption practices.
... Gray (2010) observes treating "social responsibility" as a synonym means sustainability "becomes a term that offers no threat to corporate attitudes and activity." The flipside is mounting greenwashing accusations presenting business risks by threatening to decrease consumer trust (Evans and Peirson-Smith 2018;Kim and Oh 2020;Thomas 2008). note: the table contextualizing publication of academic papers with policy responses to global environmental changes, media reporting, and launches of industry-sustainability initiatives. ...
... Sustainable fashion includes slow, ethical, and eco-friendly fashion but is a relatively new term in the consumer lexicon of green words because the media has not popularized it [1]. Slow fashion is the slowing of the manufacturing-consumption loop by enhancing sustainability and conserving local resources; it requires longer lead times, reduced workloads, and processes producing high-quality apparel to prolong product life [2]. ...
The fashion industry represents a significant source of consumerism within the global economy and requires substantial funding, eco-friendly practices, and ethical attitudes towards human capital, which are the triple bottom line of sustainability. Conscious customers are the key to reshaping the fashion industry by shopping and supporting fashion brands that adopt sustainable practices. Thus, the purpose of this study is to extract the factors affecting the decision-making process of conscious customers in selecting fashion brands adopting ethical and sustainable implementations, to present a case study covering alternative fashion brands, and to evaluate them in terms of sustainability measures. A bibliometric analysis is conducted within the scope of this research to address the most suitable and original decision-making technique; hence, a novel neutrosophic set-based ORESTE approach is proposed to rank the alternative brands. Next, after reaching the case study findings, a sensitivity analysis is conducted to illustrate the parameter changes’ impact on the result in order to validate the findings’ outcomes. Thus, this paper contributes to the literature by proposing a novel approach as an alternative to Besson ranking, extracting sustainable and ethical fashion practices of brands, and identifying the related reports and websites as references to measure sustainability in the fashion industry. The practitioners and managers can comprehend the factors to be taken into consideration by assessing the sustainability status of the particular fashion enterprises and can examine their positions in the global market within their competitors.
... Sustainable marketing activities need to take cultural variables into consideration in order to strengthen customer-organization cooperation and boost contact with society. This is necessary for the achievement of sustainable development (Evans & Peirson, 2018). Organizations prioritize sustainability in order to ensure consistent market development. ...
Today customer retention is considered one of the most eminent drivers for the overall escalation of business enterprises. Besides, the fundamental shift in customer psychology also makes conducting sustainable marketing activities for the business more challenging. In order to address critical knowledge gaps, the present study aims to examine the impact of sustainable marketing activities on customer retention. Sustainable marketing activities include economic, social-cultural, environmental, and legal aspects. The study employed a deductive approach, causal-comparative research methods, and convenience sampling techniques for its operation. The total number of customers related to food and beverage products in the Surkhet district was taken as the target population. The study included 425 customers as a sample size. The structured questionnaire was used to collect and analyze data through descriptive and inferential statistics. The study found a significant positive impact of economic, socio_cultural, environmental, and legal sustainable marketing activities on customer retention. Therefore, business organizations should consider more sustainable marketing initiatives. The study results will serve as a source of information for stakeholders like business people, customers, researchers, and academicians.
... As a result, many companies started to change their habits (like the fashion industry) and turn to sustainable products to satisfy the consumers' needs. Leading fashion industries are now changing their behaviors by aligning their social and environmental actions by adopting a more sustainable behavior (Evans and Smith, 2018). ...
This paper is driven by the Theory of Fashion Adoption, Self-Identity Theory, and Theory of Planned Behavior. Its purpose is to investigate the relationship between concern for eco-fashion, knowledge of eco-fashion, and the initiatives of green promotion on the willingness to pay more along with the mediation effect of environmental concern and eco-conscious consumer behavior. Additionally, their effect on purchase intentions will be examined. A non-probability convenience sampling technique was used to collect data from 561 participants. The data which was analyzed using the statistical packages, Amos and SPSS. The tests conducted
were confirmatory factor analysis and path analysis. The findings showed that the eco-conscious consumer behavior partially mediates the relationship between concern about eco-fashion, knowledge of eco-fashion, and green promotion and consumers’ willingness to pay more. However, this was not the case for environmental concern. There is also a significant positive relationship between willingness to pay more and purchase intentions. Implications of these findings for theory and practice are discussed with special reference to the context of the Covid pandemic.
Citation: Elmanadily, D., & El-Deeb, S. (2022). A Study on Consumers’ Purchase Intentions and Willingness to Pay More towards Eco-fashion Clothes. South Asian Journal of Management, 29(3), 161–190.
... Barriers to purchasing sustainable clothing include price, design considerations, lack of accessibility, and lack of awareness of sustainable options (Tey et al., 2018). Furthermore, while consumers may favor sustainability, they may not have enough knowledge or information about it to pursue sustainable clothing purchases (Evans & Peirson-Smith, 2018;Noh & Johnson, 2019). ...
This study explores consumers' perceptions of sustainable clothing and motivations for purchasing it. An analysis of 682 Generation Z and Millennial consumers shows both similarities and differences in their perceptions as well as their perceived importance, value, and need for sustainable clothing consumption. Descriptive statistics, t ‐tests, and text mining were used for analysis. Respondents were aware that sustainable clothing plays an important role in the overall environmental movement and has ecological benefits. However, researchers, educators, and businesses need stronger communication on other aspects of sustainable clothing. Understanding consumers' priorities and knowledge gaps can help the industry encourage sustainable clothing consumption.
... Furthermore, the fast-fashion phenomenon, which works with many brands producing multiple collections per year and encouraging customers to buy and dispose of clothing quickly, is driving the growth of the textile and fashion industry's environmental most varied topics were identified, such as the circular behavior of consumers [8], circular business models [22], key performance indicators for CE [23], circular technologies [24], and collaborative and decision-making support approaches [3,25]. Although [3,25] argued for decision support approaches that direct efforts to transition businesses to the CE in the textile-fashion industry, they do not contemplate assessing the attractiveness of a business as to its receiving investments that support its transition process. ...
Excessive and often compulsive consumption has given the textile–fashion industry the reputation of being one of the industries causing the most pollution in today’s world. For this reason, there is a necessity for a transition from a linear to a circular approach in the textile–fashion industry. However, this is not an easy task, especially when considering the investments that must be made to put a circular economy structure into practice. In this sense, the transition to a circular economy in the textile–fashion industry presents a unique opportunity for businesses to attract investments to support this transition by leveraging creativity and innovation to reduce waste, minimize resource consumption, and increase the longevity of products and materials. Therefore, this study sets out to develop a multicriteria decision support model to measure the attractiveness of businesses to receive investments that aim at aiding the transition to the circular economy. The model uses the “play card” from Simos’ procedure and the Normalize software that provide a comprehensive, consistent, and transparent approach to decision making, which can help investors to evaluate the attractiveness of investment opportunities and identify businesses that have the potential for long-term success in the circular economy. Hence, catalyzing and obstructing factors of the circular economy discussed in the literature were selected to underpin the analysis model and to draw up robust investment recommendations to the investors. In addition to the scientific contributions of the model, indications are also provided to the private sector, public policy makers, and society on how sustainability can be driven by the circular economy.
... First, a review of existing literature reviews related to sustainable fashion and their keyword search strings was conducted to generate an initial list of keywords. Then, words frequently used by brands about sustainable fashion were compiled, as it is believed that consumers are most familiar with terms used by brands that highlight the sustainable aspects of their products (Evans and Peirson-Smith, 2018;Fletcher, 2010). This process resulted in a final list of 10 keywords: addict (includes addiction and addicted), documentary, environment (includes environmental), ethic (includes ethics and ethical), fast fashion, sustainable (includes unsustainable), plastic, pollution, sweatshop and waste (includes wasteful). ...
Purpose
This study aims to examine YouTube comments relevant to sustainable fashion posted on fashion haul videos over the past decade (2011–2021). It is guided by two research questions: (1) How have sustainable fashion-related comments posted on YouTube fashion haul videos changed over time? and (2) What themes are relevant to sustainable fashion in the comments posted on fashion haul videos?
Design/methodology/approach
A data set of comments from 110 fashion haul videos posted on YouTube was refined to only include comments with keywords related to sustainable fashion. Leximancer, a machine learning technique, was employed to identify concepts within the data and co-occurrences between concepts. Linguistic Inquiry and Word Count software was employed to assess the prevalence of concepts and identify sentiment over time.
Findings
Over the decade, the authors identified increased comments and conversations relevant to sustainable fashion. For instance, conversations surrounding sustainable fashion were linked to “waste” and “addicted” between 2011 and 2013, which evolved to include “environment” and “clothes” between 2014 and 2016, to “buy” and “workers” between 2017 and 2019 and “sustainable” between 2020 and 2021, demonstrating the changes in conversation topics over time.
Practical implications
With increasing engagement from YouTube viewers on sustainable fashion, retail-affiliated content that promotes sustainable fashion is proposed as one approach to engage viewers and promote sustainable practices in the fashion industry, whereby content creators can partner with retailers to feature products and educate viewers on the benefits of sustainable fashion.
Originality/value
The findings suggest that consumers are becoming more aware of and responsive to sustainable fashion. The originality of this research stems from identifying the source of this interest.
... We assert that developing a comprehensive understanding of the attitude-behaviour gap (Han, 2018) for green products requires extensive investigations into the cognitive and ecological concerns that drive consumers' behaviour. For example, one specific inhibitor of green apparel purchases may be consumers' limited knowledge and information (Evans & Peirson-Smith, 2018;Muduli et al., 2020). In other words, consumers' knowledge-i.e., their ability to analytically process product-related information for green apparel production-may indirectly affect the mechanisms that underlie their purchase decisions. ...
The apparel industry's sustainability is gaining scholars' attention amidst increasing concerns about its environmental impacts. However, to ensure that the industry's efforts in environmental preservation succeed, it is crucial to identify the factors that can positively influence consumers' purchase or buying intentions for green apparel. However, at present, this topic is relatively understudied. Assimilating the norm activation model (NAM) and the stimulus–organism–response (SOR), we investigate economic, cognitive and ecological factors as antecedents to consumers' green apparel buying intentions. Additionally, we adapt the model to consider consumers' knowledge about apparel production as a moderator. Empirically analysing data from 478 apparel consumers from the USA through structural equation modelling, we found significant roles for affordance, ecological concerns and ascription of responsibility as stimuli influencing an individual's cognitive state through green self‐efficacy, green attitude and personal norms. The latter, in turn, affects the individual's buying intentions. Our findings entail several suggestions to help scholars, policymakers and business managers positively influence consumers to make green purchase decisions. We contribute significantly to the literature by explaining the nuances of driving factors that promote green apparel buying, and practitioners can leverage them to devise appropriate strategic tactics supporting such consumption practices.
... Although these five macrotrends are highly interconnected, "circular economy" has become the most popular trend for both the fashion and design industry, promoting the rising idea of "circular fashion" and extensive design practices. Having recycling and upcycling as its drivers for sustainable innovation, circular fashion emphasizes a closed-loop system of "design, produce, use, and recycle" [9]. Under the global trend of sustainable fashion, the majority of fashion and apparel companies have started to involve clothing reuse and upcycling practices in their business models to reduce the negative environmental impacts and excessive resource use of their brands [10]. ...
With the rise of the circular economy, recycling, and upcycling is an emerging sustainable system in the fashion industry, emphasising a closed loop of “design, produce, use, and recycle”. In this context, this paper will explore community-based approaches to scale up clothing reuse and upcycling under a social innovation perspective. This study aims to establish community-based practice models, which contribute toward promoting a greater understanding of sustainable fashion and achieving collaborative cocreation frameworks for community stakeholders. This paper, therefore, takes a social innovation perspective to conduct design studies helping with the technical (problem-solving) and cultural (sense-making) barriers that clothing reuse and upcycling face. The research was conducted in the context of the Shanghai community, and a large amount of first-hand research data were obtained through field research, expert and user interviews, and participatory workshops. Finally, this research establishes a platform proposal which combines strategic service design and practical toolkit design. It is a new community-based service model highlighting a significant advancement in the degree of collaboration and cocreation in traditional community service models. Additionally, it dramatically demonstrates the potential of socially innovative design thinking in promoting circular fashion and the closed-loop fashion system.
... Past studies (Kong et al. 2016;Hur and Cassidy 2019) show that most consumers have limited knowledge of sustainability in fashion. Public-facing communications for promoting SFC are usually ambiguous and misdirected, resulting in consumer frustration rather than pro-environmental action (Evans and Peirson-Smith 2018). There is limited guidance on how to improve the infrastructure of the fashion industry or alter consumer behavior. ...
Sustainability has been one of the most salient issues in the fashion industry in recent years. The COVID-19 pandemic has prompted a reawakening of the environmental and ethical issues in garment production and consumption. Young consumers are actively raising their voices on the currently unsustainable state of the fashion industry system. Despite this, their perspectives on policy intervention in sustainable fashion are often overlooked. This study focuses on the challenges associated with sustainable consumption behaviors among young consumers and reveals the enabling factors that leverage sustainable actions via policy intervention. In-depth interviews were conducted to investigate the potential effectiveness of proposed policies in creating effective behavioral change within the UK market. The study found that eco-labelling and educational policies have particularly high levels of consumer support. Eco-labelling is considered a critical educational and awareness-raising tool for supporting sustainable fashion consumption; however, the existing labelling approach is inadequate due to the complexity of current terminology, lack of eco-literacy, and consumers’ distrust of industry claims about eco-products, flagging a need to ensure industry transparency. New attention-grabbing labelling, universal eco-terminology and more effective and transparent green communication strategies using a combination of physical and other digital communication are required.
... Previous research shows that a lack of understanding of the key terminology of the sustainability discourse used by fashion companies can confuse consumers. Evans and Peirson-Smith (2018) suggest that greater clarity about sustainability issues and related actions to be taken by consumers can enhance sustainable fashion marketing communications. Vehmas et al. (2018) emphasize the importance of using multiple marketing communication channels in providing consumers with more visible and clear information about circular clothing and its positive impact on the environment. ...
Purpose
Detrimental impacts on social and ecological well-being of excessive fashion consumption and production practices are posing threats on future generations. Therefore, the need for sustainable solutions and endorsing them through social marketing efforts is more urgent than ever. From the consumption angle, this study aims to explore the driving forces behind consumers’ restless desire for the new and the growing need to consume sustainably.
Design/methodology/approach
This paper is conceptual in nature, and through a review of the literature in fashion, consumer, sustainability and social marketing studies, it examines why consumer desire for the new is so profound and how it conflicts with sustainability goals of the fashions industry. With a macrosocial approach, it reveals how multiple constituents of the fashion system can contribute toward sustainability goals.
Findings
This study explains consumers’ psychological and social needs driving their restless desire for the new and the role of fast fashion companies fuelling this desire. It also discusses the consequences of excessive fashion consumption and presents social marketing solutions at micro, meso and macro levels with upstream and downstream effects toward sustainability goals.
Practical implications
Considering the increasing consciousness about the negative impacts of excessive fashion consumption, this study suggests both practical and social implications that are associated with multiple stakeholders including consumers, fashion companies and public policymakers.
Originality/value
This study reveals in detail the challenges and potential social marketing solutions at micro, meso and macro levels, concerning the conflict between consumers’ restless desire for the new and the pressing need to consume more sustainably.
... Sustainable fashion has inherent controversies worth noting. For instance, there are many definitions of sustainability (Evans and Peirson-Smith, 2018;Ritch, 2021). This, according to Ritch (2021), presents a daunting challenge in terms of harmonizing its practice. ...
Purpose
This study applies the modified brand avoidance model to examine factors that influence sustainable fashion avoidance behaviour among millennial shoppers in South Africa.
Design/methodology/approach
A positivistic approach and a web-based online survey were employed to collect cross-sectional data from 423 millennial fashion shoppers. Standard multiple regression analysis was used to test proposed hypotheses.
Findings
Unmet expectations, materialism and symbolic incongruence emerged as major predictors of millennials' intention to avoid sustainable fashion. Sustainable fashion avoidance intention was found to have a positive effect on sustainable fashion avoidance behaviour.
Research limitations/implications
This study relied on self-reported data collected from millennial shoppers. Future studies may improve the generalizability of this study's results by conducting a comparative study with other cohorts such as baby boomers and Generation X who espouse different shopping values. Future studies may benefit from the use of longitudinal data in order to understand how millennial shoppers relate to sustainable fashion as it evolves.
Practical implications
The results of this study suggest the importance of developing value propositions that align sustainable fashion with cultural, personality and symbolic cues valued by millennial shoppers. Consumer education on the benefits of sustainable fashion is recommended as a long-term behavioural change strategy.
Social implications
The purchase behaviour of sustainable fashion should be encouraged as it enhances environmental sustainability including safeguarding the livelihoods of future generations.
Originality/value
This study contributes to literature on sustainable fashion avoidance behaviour. This is one of the pioneering studies to empirically examine the influence of unmet expectations, symbolic incongruence and ideological incompatibility in the context of an emerging market, such as South Africa.
... Furthermore, because there is no unified, single system to vet the labels on products, consumers are hesitant to trust label information (Case, 2009). While technical jargon and confusing symbols, frequently used on labels, may make labels difficult to understand (Van Der Merwe et al., 2014;Evans & Peirson-Smith, 2020), opting for simple presentations may reduce the overall effectiveness of the environmental claims on the label (Horne, 2009). ...
The fashion industry is characterized by unsustainable production and consumption. However, a consistently noted barrier to sustainable and responsible apparel consumption is a lack of consumer knowledge. A potential solution to mitigate this barrier is to use apparel labeling to signal the sustainability of an item to consumers. Thus, the purpose of this study is to employ signaling theory to explore the aspects of sustainability that resonate with consumers and why, the modes of communication preferred by consumers, and how such information would affect their apparel consumption decisions. In-depth interviews were conducted with a diverse sample of twenty participants. Analysis of the data resulted in the identification of three emergent themes related to communicating information about sustainability that were used to structure the interpretation: Its Importance is Relative, Signal Mode vs. Message, and Increasing the Interest Level. Overall, participants preferred simple, yet detailed messages on apparel labels to communicate aspects of an apparel item’s sustainability. Ultimately, such labeling signals sustainability to consumers, enabling them to differentiate between sustainable and unsustainable apparel.
... Due to shifting consumer demands, apparel companies began using sustainability as a brand marketing tool to differentiate themselves from competitors (Shen, 2014). Supply chain partners define sustainability as serving individual agendas from raw material producers to consumers (Evans & Peirson-Smith, 2018). This miscommunication and multiple directions to sustainability are critical issues that still need to be solved regarding students by teaching them, which will bridge the gap between industry and academia. ...
Sustainability adoption in the collegiate athletic uniform market, while gaining popularity, remains a significant concern. The purpose of this project was to engage students in a problem-based learning assignment focused on sourcing collegiate athletic uniforms and training gear from 100% sustainable or regional (within 100 miles) sources. Student teams selected a sport and met with coaches, equipment managers, and players to design and develop uniforms and training apparel to be sourced from Oeko-Tex certified manufacturers or regional producers. Post-production interviews were conducted with teams to evaluate their understanding of sustainability and its impact on sourcing decisions. Overall, student teams reported the difficulty with sustainably sourcing materials, which provides the industry an opportunity to ease this process. In doing so, future product developers will choose to source sustainably. ARTICLE HISTORY
... This lack of disclosure has significant implications for the working conditions of those employed in garment-making and processing facilities. Brands are well known for making vague, oblique or what FR (2021: 13) terms 'fluffy' statements about their human rights commitments (Evans and Peirson-Smith 2018;Segran 2019). Yet, despite this, statements about hollow 'commitments' continue to proliferate as part of marketing strategies directly targeting Western consumers increasingly aware of and concerned about the unethical production practices upon which the industry relies. ...
This article investigates the role of the Australian Modern Slavery Act 2018 as a reporting mechanism aimed at preventing the use of forced labour in global supply chains. In the fashion industry, modern slavery legislation pursues the ambitions of activist movements that have long campaigned for increased knowledge about supply chain practices to improve the labour conditions of garment workers, especially for those in the Global South. In recent years, such campaigns against the entrenched opacity of the global fashion system have given rise to a transparency industry built on practices of auditing and supply chain management, including in relation to modern slavery legislation. This article analyses 10 modern slavery statements submitted to the online Modern Slavery Register by fashion brands operating in Australia in the 2019–2020 reporting period to explore how the Modern Slavery Act 2018 participates in colonial relations of power. It focuses on three aspects of the statements: factory reporting and third-party auditing, corporate grievance mechanisms, and risks associated with COVID-19. Finally, the article argues that while improved transparency can generate positive outcomes for workers, the reporting required by modern slavery legislation is often more concerned with providing assurances about labour standards to consumers and stakeholders in the Global North than with the needs or experiences of workers in the Global South.
... Sustainable is often correlated with eco, eco-fashion, fair trade, green, ethical, organic, recycled, upcycling, environmental, and sustainability. However, no sole definition can cover sustainability as it is perceived differently for each person (Evans & Peirson-Smith, 2018). It goes the same with the term sustainable fashion. ...
The continuous growth of the fashion industry leaves tons of discarded clothing and garments. One way to address this issue is by upcycling or assembling worn or leftover garments into a new piece of clothing. With the growing sustainable awareness in Indonesia, consumers have started to look for clothing brands applying a sustainable practice. The research investigated the external and internal factors that could affect sales as well as brand awareness and identified the marketing strategy of a new upcycling clothing brand in Indonesia, Kawan. The research was conducted by understanding the external and internal factors using qualitative and quantitative methods. The internal data were from interviews with the owner of Kawan, customers and potential customers of Kawan. They were analyzed by the Valuable, Rare, Imperfectly Imitable, Organization (VRIO) and Marketing Mix (Product, Price, Place, and Promotion (4P)) framework. Meanwhile, the external factors were examined by the Political, Economic, Sociocultural, Technology, Ecological, Legal (PESTEL) framework and benchmarking. The data for PESTEL analysis were derived from news, reports, and an interview with the owner of Kawan. A survey was also conducted to women in Indonesia to formulate the marketing strategy using Marketing Mix framework. The results show the product characteristics for upcycling clothing brand and essential types of information for the promotion. They are essential in value creation and delivery for upcycling fashion brands. It is expected to contribute to the sales issue that Kawan has experienced and generate the marketing strategy for the issue.
... The findings from the study indicated notable differences in consumers' perception of ethical fashion between the three countries in terms of representation and appeal of this fashion segment, as well as the perceived availability. Lastly, four studies were identified using mixed-methods (e.g.,Evans & Peirson-Smith, 2018;Joyner Armstrong et al., 2016;Moon et al., 2015). ...
During the last decade, sustainable fashion has attracted increasing attention from policymakers, firms, and consumers. This interest is also reflected in consumer behavior research in this area. Notwithstanding this, there are few systematic literature reviews from a consumer behavior perspective. The purpose of this paper is to systematically review and critically assess the studies on consumer behavior in sustainable fashion to identify the research gap in this context and inform a future research agenda. A total of 167 journal articles were identified, and a final sample of 88 articles synthesized. A descriptive analysis was performed to examine the research methods, research trends, and theoretical underpinnings. Separately, a synthetic analysis was performed using the Stimulus‐Organism‐Response (S‐O‐R) framework. Findings reveal a significant increase in the volume of publications since 2009. Qualitative, experimental, cross‐cultural, and longitudinal studies are significantly less represented in the literature. No evidence of research using big data techniques were identified. Much of the research published is not adequately grounded in theory. The findings also suggest that the consumer attitude‐behavior gap requires further exploration. This review fills a need to summarize the current state of consumer behavior in sustainable fashion literature and provides valuable insights into the existing marketing corpus on the topic. Moreover, the review identifies a number of outstanding research gaps that can inform future research.
Purpose
This qualitative study explores the dynamics of communicating Australian cotton’s on-farm sustainability to actors throughout global value chains. The research is guided by two objectives: first, to understand how sustainability in Australian cotton is perceived by value chain members, and second, to pinpoint strategies for cultivating a shared understanding of on-farm sustainability within the Australian cotton value chain (ACVC).
Design/methodology/approach
Employing qualitative research methods, the study conducts interviews with 21 participants from two distinct ACVCs.
Findings
Effectively communicating the sustainability of clothing fibre demands thoughtful consideration of how knowledge is translated from farmer to retailer. The diverse nature of cotton production practices leads to varied understandings of sustainability, making it challenging to establish a consistent narrative. The study found that clear information and visual storytelling of on-farm practices enhance stakeholders’ understanding. The use of complex technical information was a barrier to effective communication, and there was general scepticism among retailers regarding industry-funded sustainability credentials. These findings underscore the importance of building trust through two-way communication between retailers and farmers.
Research limitations/implications
This study highlights the need for more collaborative efforts to foster a shared understanding of sustainability across the value chain. The findings of this study may not be broadly representative of the entire Australian or global cotton industry, but the depth of insights and methodological approach may be applied to other value chains.
Originality/value
This research advances the literature on sustainability communication in the context of fashion production and consumption. It takes a unique perspective by focussing on how sustainability is communicated by different stakeholders working with Australian cotton.
Purpose
An increasing number of fashion firms face criticism for “greenwashing” due to the industry’s longstanding negative environmental and social impacts. This experimental study, in the fashion industry context, evaluated consumers’ perceptions of hypocrisy, demonstrated by false labeling, vague information and downsizing negative environmental impacts in corporate social responsibility initiatives. This study also investigated how these perceptions influence consumers’ evaluations of the firm’s moral inequity and their likelihood of engaging in complaint behaviors.
Design/methodology/approach
An online survey company recruited Chinese consumers to participate in a between-subjects experimental study. Three types of news articles were developed – false labeling, vague information and downsizing of negative aspects – reporting on a fictitious fashion firm’s greenwashing practices. Participants were randomly assigned to one of the stimuli and completed a corresponding survey.
Findings
Analysis of the 210 collected responses revealed that false labeling had the highest level of corporate hypocrisy perceptions, whereas the downsizing of negative aspects resulted in the lowest level. Moreover, perceived hypocrisy increased moral inequity, which subsequently influenced consumer complaint behaviors. Specifically, when consumers’ expectations toward a firm’s morality were violated – whether through false labeling, vague claims or selective omission – they felt deceived, leading to perceptions of moral hypocrisy. Upon detecting hypocritical behavior in corporate greenwashing, consumers felt moral inequity and took various complaint actions.
Originality/value
This study’s findings provide valuable insights into greenwashing within the fashion industry, addressing industry-specific issues. Academically, this study suggests new classifications of customer complaint behaviors by relating the current circumstances of customer complaints to previous classifications.
Purpose
The purpose of this study is to provide a comprehensive overview of sustainable fashion consumption from a consumer behavior perspective, combining scientometric analysis and the SPAR-4-SLR protocol to identify trends, key contributors and research gaps in the field.
Design/methodology/approach
The study analyzes 114 articles published between 2014 and 2024, sourced from the Scopus database. A hybrid approach is used, employing VOSviewer and Rstudio for quantitative analysis, along with the theory-context-characteristics-methodology framework to systematically review constructs, theories, contexts and methodologies in the selected articles.
Findings
The findings highlight critical insights into consumer behavior regarding sustainable fashion and identify gaps in the literature. The study also provides performance indicators, including publication trends and citation metrics, visualized through tables and maps. It offers practical guidance for businesses and policymakers to promote sustainable consumption practices.
Originality/value
This research contributes to the field by integrating scientometric and systematic review methods, providing a novel approach to understanding sustainable fashion consumption. It also suggests future research directions and explores how benchmarking techniques can enhance consumer engagement and sustainability strategies.
Objetivo: Classificar e apreciar criticamente a forma como pequenas marcas de moda sustentável articulam a transparência na comunicação de suas práticas sustentáveis nas mídias sociais. Método: Abordagem qualitativa e documental, através de análise de conteúdo em 632 fotos, 163 vídeos e 170 legendas das seções de Feed e Destaques dos Stories de 17 marcas brasileiras com até 50 mil seguidores no Instagram. Originalidade/Relevância: Enquanto a transparência na comunicação on-line de grandes marcas de moda sustentável foi amplamente estudada, há uma escassez de análises sobre pequenas marcas. Esta pesquisa preenche essa lacuna, ressaltando a importância de entender como essas marcas divulgam iniciativas sustentáveis nas mídias sociais. Resultados: Embora estratégias visuais de marketing prevaleçam no Feed, uma abordagem mais transparente e autêntica é adotada nos Stories em relação a processos internos, produção artesanal, trabalho feminino, projetos socioambientais e matérias-primas. No entanto, há deficiências na divulgação de números de impacto socioambiental, no reconhecimento de desafios e áreas de melhoria, e na comunicação da remuneração justa dos trabalhadores. Contribuições teóricas/metodológicas: Este estudo aprofunda a compreensão sobre como as pequenas marcas de moda abordam a comunicação de suas práticas sustentáveis no ambiente digital, identificando aspectos negligenciados nessa comunicação. Contribuições sociais/para a gestão: Os achados oferecem insights práticos para aprimorar as estratégias de comunicação on-line de marcas emergentes de moda sustentável, visando uma comunicação mais transparente e autêntica com seus públicos, a fim de evitar a disseminação de falsos discursos mercadológicos
Climate change has become one of the key challenges facing the world today. Fashion companies worldwide are keen to communicate their sustainability-related initiatives on a variety of platforms such as websites, social media, product packages and so on. Hang tags are used as an outlet for multiple signals such as price, fit, quality and sustainability. This chapter presents the findings from an eye tracking experiment aimed at exploring consumers’ attention to sustainability labelling and communication on fashion hang tags. We found that language, position and graphics on the tags influence the visual performance of intended messages.
Purpose
This study aims to investigate consumers’ slow fashion purchase decision. Specifically, the research empirically examines the relationship between the attributes of slow fashion products, perceived value, lack of information, confusion and consumer decision (intention, deferral and abandonment of the purchase) about slow fashion products.
Design/methodology/approach
A quantitative study was carried out on a sample of 323 customers. Partial least squares structural equation modeling was applied to analyze the collected data.
Findings
Purchase intention was enhanced by perceived value. However, only three attributes of slow fashion products (localism, equity and functionality) had a significant influence on perceived value. Lack of information had a significant negative influence on perceived value, as well as on consumer confusion, which can lead to purchase abandonment or deferral of the purchase of slow fashion products.
Practical implications
Slow fashion product managers should pay particular attention to the attributes of localism, equity and functionality, which have proven to be significant for creating a favorable perceived value. Getting customers more involved in the production process and using slow communication would be among the practices to be encouraged by professionals. Furthermore, such actions are likely to reduce confusion arising from the lack of information about slow fashion products, and thus, avoid the inhibition of customers’ purchase process.
Originality/value
Existing literature has focused on consumers’ intentions to purchase slow fashion products. These intentions are mainly related to the attributes of slow fashion products and perceived value. Nevertheless, the prediction of sustainable product consumption, such as slow fashion products, is also influenced by typical external barriers such as lack of information and consumer confusion, which are considered in this study.
The people-oriented tenet, fashion design quickly expands to encompass the modern socio-economic, political, and cultural variety. Multi-paradigm, multi-angle design is merged into modern fashion. This is restricted to the practice of garment design and open up a fresh vision for the frontier of modern fashion. There is no denying that the fashion business is being significantly impacted by the intersection of science and technology. Sustainable garment design and new positive systems are currently needed for innovative designs developed to achieve sustainable fashion and environmentally friendly materials. Sustainable innovation in fashion is tough on society. The ecology of textiles and eco-friendly materials themselves benefit society and do not pollute the environment in any way when they are made into clothing. To being helpful to humans and nontoxic to the body, it is also sociable in the environment. At this historic juncture, new synthetic, high-tech materials that meet consumer demands while protecting the environment are emerging.
В данной статье рассматриваются вопросы, которые связаныс процессом импортозамещения в России. В период первых санкций после присоединения полуостроваКрым в 2014 году импортозамещение стало действительно важным направлением, при этом не оставалось единственным путем развития. Ситуация на российском рынке в 2022 году показала, что импортозамещение - это выход из сложившейся ситуации для производителей, потребителей и самого государства. Но внезапно освободившиеся ниши прочно ассоциируются с ушедшими брендами, задавшими высокую планку, а различные аналоги или полное их отсутствие вводят покупателя в замешательство. При этом очевидно, что уход привычных товаров не означает спад спроса, из-за чего остро встает вопрос замещения. Наладить связь между производителем и потребителем -основная задача маркетинга. Прошедшие восемь месяцев показали, с какими проблемами столкнулся национальный бизнес,и как с кризисной ситуацией можно справляться. Благодаря этому опыту можно выявить используемые способы по замещению ушедших с рынка брендов и сформировать основные предложения для дальнейшего развития маркетинга в сфере импортозамещения. Это и является центральной проблемой данной публикации.
This article discusses issues related to the import substitution process in Russia. During the period of the first sanctions after the accession of Crimea in 2014, import substitution became a really important direction, while it did not remain the only way of development. The Russian market situation in 2022 showed that import substitution is a way out of the current situation for producers, consumers and the state itself. But the sharply vacated niches are strongly associated with the departed brands that set the bar high, and various analogues or their complete absence confuse the buyer. Establishing a connection between the manufacturer and the consumer is the main task of marketing. The past eight months have shown what problems the national business has faced and how crisis situations can be handled. Thanks to this experience, it is possible to form basic proposals for the further development of marketing in the import substitution. This is the central problem of this publication.
A prática upcycling desponta como uma abordagem inovadora de consumo, ganhando destaque por ser uma alternativa mais sustentável, em relação à produção convencional de bens de consumo. O objetivo do estudo é investigar os preditores da intenção do consumidor para aderir à prática upcycling e o comportamento para o consumo sustentável no Brasil. A pesquisa é de natureza descritiva e de levantamento, tomando por base a abordagem quantitativa. Foram realizados estudos com consumidores brasileiros interessados na prática upcycling, buscando compreender o ponto de vista dos sujeitos investigados, possibilitando elencar preditores e novas categorias de análise para o consumo sustentável. Os resultados apresentam um diagnóstico de onde estão localizados os consumidores que praticam upcycling no Brasil, ajudando a compreender a dinâmica e os possíveis nichos de mercado. Os fatores que contribuíram positivamente na disposição do consumidor para a prática upcycling foram a Intenção comportamental, seguido da Função das crenças e das Condições facilitadoras percebidas, envolvendo as habilidades, o conhecimento e as inspirações. Os resultados demonstram que os indivíduos com maiores níveis de consciência ambiental apresentam atitudes positivas em relação ao consumo sustentável, indicando que as características voltadas para o comportamento são influenciadas pelo conhecimento. O estudo amplia o conhecimento sobre upcycling, no contexto da realidade brasileira, avançando na inclusão dos fatores motivacionais, culturais, racionais e estímulos que contribuam para a conscientização ecológica dos indivíduos, ajudando a ressignificar o consumo sustentável no país.
Sentralitas Merek Menjadi Pusat Kehidupan Konsumen. Suatu merek dapat menjadi pusat kehidupan konsumen. Sejauh mana suatu merek mempunyai tempat sentral dalam kehidupan konsumen disebut sebagai sentralitas merek, yaitu hubungan keagamaan antara merek dan konsumen. Meskipun memainkan peran penting dalam bisnis fast fashion, penelitian tentang penyebab dan dampaknya masih kurang. Penelitian ini bermaksud untuk mengeksplorasi hubungan antara harga diri, frekuensi pembelian rata-rata, dan tiga karakteristik psikologis (kesadaran mode, preferensi pembelian jangka panjang, dan harga diri), satu elemen perilaku (sentralitas merek), dan hubungan. Pada sektor quick fashion, kualitas. Desain, metode, dan strategi Pemodelan persamaan struktural kuadrat terkecil parsial (PLS-SEM) digunakan untuk menganalisis data dari survei terhadap 153 konsumen fast fashion. Hasil studi ini menunjukkan bahwa sentralitas merek berpengaruh positif berkorelasi dengan kesadaran mode dan orientasi belanja kronis, tetapi tidak dengan harga diri. Penelitian ini memiliki signifikansi besar dalam menggali keterkaitan antara merek dan kehidupan konsumen, serta memberikan implikasi praktis bagi perusahaan dalam menyusun strategi pemasaran, meningkatkan pengalaman konsumen, dan membangun hubungan yang lebih kuat dengan pelanggan
This research aims to understand the attitude-behavior gap in sustainable fashion
consumption among Spanish consumers, that is, revealing the reasons behind the
conundrum between positive attitude and apparent lack of corresponding behavior.
In doing so, this research has, on the one hand, approached holistically sustainable
fashion consumption by not only considering the acquisition of sustainable fashion
products, but also the engagement in new circular models, specifically Collaborative
Fashion Consumption, and the participation in the Slow Fashion philosophy. On the
other hand, it has as well approached holistically the attitude-behavior gap by
analyzing not only the influence of psychological traits, but also products attributes
and situational variables.
Methodologically, this thesis implemented a mixed-method approach combining
qualitative and quantitative techniques. The research was undertaken in three
phases. Phase one consisted of a systematic literature review of studies regarding
the attitude-behavior gap in sustainable fashion consumption. It served to map past
and current trends and delineate the research gap. The second phase was carried
out by three focus groups (n=23) combining already sustainable fashion consumers
and average consumers, ranging from different ages in order to understand the
differences between both kinds of consumers and among generations. Focus-groups
data was analyzed through Content Analysis and Means-Ends Chain Analysis,
which served to reveal the underlying link between product attributes and
consumers' personal values.
The last phase consisted of an online survey (n=1,063) to triangulate the data
collected in the previous phase and acquire representativeness through a larger
sample. In order to reveal the drivers and barriers contributing to the attitudebehavior
gap, the data was analyzed through descriptive statistics, Structural
Equation Modelling (SEM) under the premises of the Theory of Reasoned Action,
Choice-Based Conjoint Analysis and Cluster Analysis. Through the Choice-Based
Conjoint Analysis, it was possible to understand which attributes are more
important for Spanish consumers in the fashion purchase decision-making, while
the Cluster Analysis served to identify and profile four different types of consumers.
The output of this thesis assists in filling in the research gap on understanding
sustainable fashion consumption and consumers. Precisely the attitude-behavior
gap, by considering not only psychological variables, such as attitudes or values, but
also external factors (product attributes and situational variables), and by using
applied research (choice-based conjoint analysis) with actual market parameters
which offers a better approximation of consumer behavior in the under-researched
market of Spanish consumers.
In the modern world, issues of sustainability are of the utmost importance. Organizations will no longer be able to maintain their current levels of company growth if society does not cooperate with them. As a consequence of this, marketing managers focus their efforts on satisfying the socio-ethical requirements of customers, such as the promotion of cultural activities, the protection of the environment, and disaster aid. The concept of "sustainability" relates to the economic, social, and environmental duties that are placed on an organization; thus, it begs the issue of how these commitments should be carried out effectively. This study focuses on the long-term marketing efforts made in the fashion business as well as the effects of such efforts. The convenience sampling method was employed in this research. The study included 268 completely filled questionnaires out of a total of 300. For data analysis SPSS 22 and AMOS 22 were used. According to the results, sustainable initiatives in the fashion industry have a positive influence on trust, brand image, and satisfaction levels among consumers. Furthermore, they contribute to positive outcomes for customer loyalty to brands. The results are important for business leaders and marketers who want to make long-term management methods that work better.
As fashion acts as a mirror of society, the crisis it is facing today reflects the same dynamics of the human and ecological crisis that is affecting the world as a whole. While questions of sustainability have come to occupy center stage in terms of thinking of ways that the fashion industry can help solve this larger societal crisis, all these discussions tend to remain addressed in a compartmentalized manner. Most critiques of the destructive and exploitative nature of the fashion system are centered around its tangible symptoms, such as environmental degradation, human exploitation or lack of inclusion. In contrast to these fragmented critiques, this paper will focus on exposing the root cause of these interconnected symptoms, by putting forward the argument that the very foundations of the fashion system are inherently, humanly, and ecologically unsustainable because they are based on a colonial epistemology. In order to excavate this, an intersectional approach will be used to unveil the different forms of coloniality that make up the foundations of the world, and subsequently the fashion industry, namely: anthropocentrism, imperialism and capitalism. Through a detailed understanding of these colonial markers, the necessity for an epistemological shift will be put forward, one that deconstructs this coloniality and challenges the way we view, produce and consume fashion in a holistic way. And while luxury has historically been praised for its excellence through going beyond the ordinary and being of supreme quality, this paper will make the case that a true transcendental luxury in today’s context needs to be at the forefront of deconstructing the coloniality that makes up the norm of fashion.
Purpose
The purpose of this research is to examine how consumers interpret and understand sustainable fashion production and how this informs their fashion consumption practice.
Design/methodology/approach
The research adopts an interpretivist approach with in-depth interviews with 28 participants. Sampling criterion sought consumers already engaged with sustainable production – professionally working mothers – to explore how their sustainability knowledge was evaluated for sustainable fashion claims. Garment labels that descripted facets of sustainable production were introduced to encourage discourse of sustainable fashion knowledge.
Findings
The findings illustrate that sustainable fashion production is not understood and efforts to apply sustainability concepts were often misunderstood which led to scepticism for higher pricing and marketing claims. Despite this, there was concern for the wider implications of sustainability.
Research limitations/implications
Limitations include the small sample from one geographical area (Edinburgh), despite the richness of the data collected.
Practical implications
The research offers practical advice for fashion marketers to educate consumers through effective communication strategies how sustainable fashion concepts improve consumer concerns surrounding fashion production.
Social implications
The research indicates increased concern for fashion sustainability, something that fashion retailers should be mindful of.
Originality/value
There has been little research examining consumer interpretation of sustainable fashion terminology, and this research adds to understanding how sustainability is evaluated within fashion production.
Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys brings together for the first time information about lifecycle sustainability impacts of fashion and textiles, practical alternatives, design concepts and social innovation. It challenges existing ideas about the scope and potential of sustainability issues in fashion and textiles, and sets out a more pluralistic, engaging and forward-looking picture, drawing on ideas of systems thinking, human needs, local products, slow fashion and participatory design, as well as knowledge of materials. The book not only defines the field, it also challenges it, and uses design ideas to help shape more sustainable products and promote social change. Arranged in two sections, the first four chapters represent key stages of the lifecycle: material cultivation/extraction, production, use and disposal. The remaining four chapters explore design approaches for altering the scale and nature of consumption, including service design, localism, speed and user involvement. While each of these chapters is complete in and of itself, their real value comes from what they represent together: innovative ways of thinking about textiles and garments based on sustainability values and an interconnected approach to design.
Under the global trend of sustainability, many companies selling fashion products have to reshape their operational strategies. Over the past few years, we have witnessed many fashion companies going green by re-engineering their business processes and establishing their formal sustainability programs. Many important topics, such as closed-loop supply chain management, corporate social responsibility, and economic sustainability, are all related to sustainable fashion business operations management. This paper provides a brief review of these critical topics, introduces the special issue, and proposes future research areas to achieve sustainable operations management in the fashion business.
Purpose
– The purpose of this paper is to explore consumer perceptions and understanding of sustainable concepts within the context of fashion consumption.
Design/methodology/approach
– Phenomenological interviews provided a platform to explore fashion sustainability and garment labels from current UK high street fashion retailers were used to stimulate discussion.
Findings
– The findings identify confusion of how sustainability applies to fashion, particularly for environmental issues and there was scepticism regarding higher pricing for organic cotton. However, motivation to avoid fashion produced under exploitation resulted in avoiding retailers alleged of such practice, paying more for garments and purchasing from established UK retailers.
Research limitations/implications
– The idiographic nature of a phenomenological approach may be considered as a limitation, yet this in-depth exploration of participants with similar socio-demographics enables a rich understanding of the discourse experienced within their lifeworlds.
Practical implications
– The findings illustrate that consumers are transferring sustainable principles from one context to another, and that by addressing sustainability, fashion retailers could obtain a competitive advantage.
Social implications
– The findings demonstrate consumers’ increased involvement with sustainability and the role expected from fashion retailers.
Originality/value
– The research uniquely positions consumers’ reliance on heuristics to guide sustainable preferences, due to the lack of information and this implies that sustainable concepts are increasingly incorporated into everyday behaviours.
Sustainability is significantly important for fashion business due to consumers’ increasing awareness of environment. When a fashion company aims to promote sustainability, the main linkage is to develop a sustainable supply chain. This paper contributes to current knowledge of sustainable supply chain in the textile and clothing industry. We first depict the structure of sustainable fashion supply chain including eco-material preparation, sustainable manufacturing, green distribution, green retailing, and ethical consumers based on the extant literature. We study the case of the Swedish fast fashion company, H&M, which has constructed its sustainable supply chain in developing eco-materials, providing safety training, monitoring sustainable manufacturing, reducing carbon emission in distribution, and promoting eco-fashion. Moreover, based on the secondary data and analysis, we learn the lessons of H&M’s sustainable fashion supply chain from the country perspective: (1) the H&M’s sourcing managers may be more likely to select suppliers in the countries with lower degrees of human wellbeing; (2) the H&M’s supply chain manager may set a higher level of inventory in a country with a higher human wellbeing; and (3) the H&M CEO may consider the degrees of human wellbeing and economic wellbeing, instead of environmental wellbeing when launching the online shopping channel in a specific country.
Longer-lasting materials and products are often promoted as a strategy to increase resourcefulness and sustainability across product groups including fashion. Yet these gains depend on changed user behavior and consumption patterns, which in fashion in particular are influenced by
social and experiential dimensions, not just material products. Obsolescence of fashion products, driven by aesthetic change and tied to changing social preferences underscores the psycho-social nature of factors which affect fashion garment lifespans. This is reflected by ethnographic evidence
that shows that garments which defy obsolescence do so in informal or unintentional ways, rarely as a result of design planning or material or product qualities. This article suggests a point of departure for design for durability that shifts away from a familiar focus on materials, products,
and user‐object relationships to instead explore material durability as emerging from strategies of human action. It suggests that durability, while facilitated by materials, design, and construction, is determined by an ideology of use.
It is proposed that awareness of the consequence of one's potential acts for the welfare of others moderates the relationships of moral norms to behavior. One hundred eighteen male college students, members of nine small residential units,indicated their personal and perceived group norms and rated their peers' behavior in specific moral interactions. No relationships among norms and peer ratings of behavior were found among those scoring low on a projective index of Awareness of Consequences (AC); but increasingly positive relationships emerged among subsamples showing progressively higher levels of AC. AC itself was positively correlated (p<.01) with peer ratings of behavior, but not with norms. Given the situations studied, the findings are interpreted as evidence that AC activates norms, thereby permitting them to influence action.
This study focuses on the economic, market-related context of consumptionpatterns and incorporates the regulatory settings and values. The aim is tosystemise the influences on sustainable consumption patterns. Special attention isdrawn to the question how existing niche markets could be extended to massmarkets. This question is deepened by case studies on the green textile and thegreen power markets.The results emphasise the different key factors which influence the successfulpathways for an extended green market volume. Looking at the case of the greenpower market it can be seen how important it is to create an economic andinstitutional context for adoption. Looking at the case of green textiles theimportance of new lifestyles and cultural impacts are obvious.Looking at the interfaces between institutional settings, supply structure, societalvalues and consumers' decision-making, it can be seen that consumers' demandsare not only a product of individual needs. Therefore sustainable consumptionstrategies will have to face not only the change of needs, but also the change ofstructures which influence individual choices. -- Diese Studie konzentriert sich auf den ökonomischen, marktbezogenen Kontextnachhaltiger Konsummuster unter Berücksichtigung von staatlicher Regulierungund gesellschaftlichen Werten. Eine besondere Aufmerksamkeit wird der Fragegewidmet, wie bestehende Nischenmärkte erweitert werden können. Am Beispielder Märkte für umweltfreundliche Textilien und umweltfreundliche Energiewerden vertiefend die Erfolgsbedingungen für eine Markterweiterung untersucht.Als ein wichtiges Ergebnis kann festgehalten werden, dass unterschiedliche Einflussfaktoren für den Erfolg in den untersuchten Märkten verantwortlich sind.Das Wachstum der umweltfreundlichen Energiebereitstellung kann vor allem mitden veränderten Rahmenbedingungen erklärt werden, während das Marktsegment umweltfreundlicher Textilien vor allem durch Lebensstile und kulturelle Einflüssegeprägt wird.Betrachtet man die Schnittstellen zwischen institutionellem Rahmen, Angebotsstrukturen, gesellschaftlichem Wertewandel und den Entscheidungen der Konsumenten systematisch, so wird deutlich, dass Konsumentscheidungen nicht nur aufindividuellen Bedürfnissen beruhen. Von daher ist es für eine Strategie desnachhaltigen Konsums wichtig, nicht nur auf die Veränderung von Bedürfnissenzu zielen, sondern auch die Strukturen zu verändern, die individuelle Entscheidungen beeinflussen.
Numerous theoretical frameworks have been developed to explain the gap between the possession of environmental knowledge and environmental awareness, and displaying pro-environmental behavior. Although many hundreds of studies have been undertaken, no definitive explanation has yet been found. Our article describes a few of the most influential and commonly used analytical frameworks: early US linear progression models; altruism, empathy and prosocial behavior models; and finally, sociological models. All of the models we discuss (and many of the ones we do not such as economic models, psychological models that look at behavior in general, social marketing models and that have become known as deliberative and inclusionary processes or procedures (DIPS)) have some validity in certain circumstances. This indicates that the question of what shapes pro-environmental behavior is such a complex one that it cannot be visualized through one single framework or diagram. We then analyze the factors that have been found to have some influence, positive or negative, on pro-environmental behavior such as demographic factors, external factors (e.g. institutional, economic, social and cultural) and internal factors (e.g. motivation, pro-environmental knowledge, awareness, values, attitudes, emotion, locus of control, responsibilities and priorities). Although we point out that developing a model that tries to incorporate all factors might neither be feasible nor useful, we feel that it can help illuminate this complex field. Accordingly, we propose our own model based on the work of Fliegenschnee and Schelakovsky (1998) who were influenced by Fietkau and Kessel (1981).
In some circles, “fast” has become a proxy for a type of fashion that epitomizes ideas of unsustainability; yet high speed is not in itself a descriptor of unethical and/or environmentally damaging practices but a tool that is used to increase sales and deliver economic growth with attendant ecological and social effects. Questions about speed probe deeply into the economic systems, business models, and value sets that underpin the fashion sector today and which profoundly shape its sustainability potential. In this article, ideas and practices of the lexicographical opposite to “fast,” i.e. slow culture, are framed as an opportunity to begin to engage better with systems-level questions in the fashion sector in order to build deeper and longer-lasting change towards sustainability.
Conceptually, the slow food movement provides the point of departure for this article, which asks if the slow approach can offer a sustainable solution for fashion. Three “lines of reflection are addressed: the valuing of local resources and distributed economies; transparent production systems with less intermediation between producer and consumer; and sustainable and sensorial products that have a longer usable life and are more highly valued than typical “consumables. Each is investigated using examples that together address the possible global dominance of fast fashion, provide more sustainable ways of approaching fashion, and concentrate on the implication of fashion as actual material garments, which are used and discarded. The approaches mentioned simultaneously challenge existing hierarchies of designer, producer, and consumer; question the notion of fashion being concerned exclusively with the new; confront fashion's reliance on image; present fashion as a choice rather than as a mandate; and highlight collaborative/cooperative work—providing agency especially to women.
This paper aims to contribute to a better understanding of eco-fashion consumption and consumer purchase decisions while constructing one's self with external symbols, such as appearance, clothing and fashion items. This study approaches sustainable clothing from a grounding in design research and the meanings of material culture. The study uses sociology and social psychology; hence, the meaning of appearance and especially clothing and fashion is understood in a social context. This paper also takes an interdisciplinary approach to eco-clothes as cultural and design objects in a social and sustainable development context, objects that intertwine consumers' ethical attitudes and values and how they construct a concept of 'self' using external symbols. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd and ERP Environment.
How effectively business deals with the challenges of sustainability will define its success for decades to come. Current
sustainability strategies have three major deficiencies: they do not directly focus on the customer, they do not recognize
the looming threats from rising global over-consumption, and they do not take a holistic approach. We present a framework
for a customer-centric approach to sustainability. This approach recasts the sustainability metric to emphasize the outcomes
of business actions measured holistically in term of environmental, personal and economic well-being of the consumer. We introduce
the concept of mindful consumption (MC) as the guiding principle in this approach. MC is premised on a consumer mindset of
caring for self, for community, and for nature, that translates behaviorally into tempering the self-defeating excesses associated
with acquisitive, repetitive and aspirational consumption. We also make the business case for fostering mindful consumption,
and illustrate how the marketing function can be harnessed to successfully implement the customer-centric approach to sustainability.
KeywordsSustainability–Customer-centric sustainability–Mindful consumption
Terminology in the field of sustainable development is becoming increasingly important because the number of terms continues to increase along with the rapid increase in awareness of the importance of sustainability. Various definitions of terms are used by different authors and organizations, for example, green chemistry, cleaner production, pollution prevention, etc. The importance of this topic has stimulated research into the problems of clarifying ambiguity and classifying terms used in the sustainability field. This paper provides results of the literature survey and summarizes the definitions of the terms, focusing on the environmental engineering field. In some cases, it proposes an improved definition. A hierarchical classification of the terms and their relationships has been based on a layer format that is presented graphically.
In today’s marketplace, dominated by business models predicated on continual consumption and globalized production systems creating major environmental and social impact, the contradiction between the socio-economic importance of fashion and its inbuilt obsolescence through its increasingly fast fashion cycle represent a significant problem. Given that fashion consumption appears set to grow with each new generation of consumers, the need to provide a regulatory system for sustainable fashion and to communicate that effectively appears to be essential. Located in Hong Kong, this paper reviews the role of fashion user perceptions toward popularly used words adopted by fashion brands intended to stimulate sustainable behaviors. It is based on research findings determining how users make sense of this complex discourse and the impact on consumption practices. Findings are presented from over 100 on-street surveys and six focus groups with Hong Kong-based participants to determine their understanding of green language used in sustainable fashion brands promotions. Findings suggest confusion and lack of engagement, yet an interest in taking action. Hence, the question of how to devise and communicate sustainable fashion messages using the most effective and understood key words in brand messages is critical in terms of moving people from awareness to advocacy impacting on fashion consumption in a future circular economy.
Purpose
The purpose of this paper is to examine the relationship between ethical fashion and consumer purchase behavior (their willingness to pay a premium for ethical fashion), with the focus on consumers’ concerns and beliefs about, and knowledge of, ethical fashion.
Design/methodology/approach
A self‐completion questionnaire was administered to 109 respondents. Factor analysis and other statistical analyses were applied to test hypotheses.
Findings
The findings suggest that consumer beliefs about ethical fashion, which are based on their perceptions of a company in terms of its reputation in the fashion industry, influence their support for what they perceive as socially and environmentally responsible businesses.
Research limitations/implications
The sample size, which is relatively small, is a limitation for this research. The data were collected in Hong Kong, limiting findings to that geographic region.
Practical implications
An important implication is that consumer education is essential to mitigate the prevailing throwaway culture and raise consumer awareness of ethical issues facing the fashion industry. Thus, retailers should take initiatives to educate consumers so as to ensure the success of their newly‐launched ethical fashion products.
Originality/value
The paper proposes an approach to clearly understand the impacts of ethical fashion on consumer purchase behavior.
One frequently encounters the need of a rational selection of sample size when it is desired to estimate the standard deviation. Changing the permissible error of the estimate from an absolute to a relative one is acceptable in many cases and permits an exact, a priori solution to the problem of sample size without involving any previous estimates.
Purpose – The aim is to contribute to a better understanding of ethical fashion consumption. Even though consumers demand more ethical responsibility from companies, it is debatable if consumers would sacrifice their own personal needs to support ethically produced clothing. Design/methodology/approach – Focus groups are conducted in the UK and Germany in order to elicit consumers' beliefs and attitudes towards ethical issues in the fashion industry and its effect on purchase behaviour. Questionnaires are administrated to verify the outcome of the focus groups. Findings – The findings from this research demonstrate little evidence that ethical issues have any effect on consumers' fashion purchase behaviour. When it comes to fashion purchase, personal needs motivate consumers primarily to buy garments and take precedence over ethical issues. Research limitations/implications – Only a specific age group between 18 and 26-years-old is interviewed. Both research methods are undertaken in the area of Manchester, England, and the area of Frankfurt, Germany, which perhaps limits the meaning of the results. Practical implications – Consumers feel that they are often unable to make an ethical choice. Therefore they do seem to need more information to allow them to make better ethical judgements and there is a role for ethical fashion companies to communicate this more effectively. Originality/value – This research paper gives insight into ethical fashion purchasing behaviour among UK and German consumers and provides information to improve the potential of ethical fashion.
Purpose
– Conflicting marketing messages have caused consumers to misunderstand distinctions between sustainability and environmental concern, especially when considering the apparel industry. This study seeks to explore consumers’ actual knowledge and sentiment towards sustainability and environmental issues, both in general and in the apparel industry.
Design/methodology/approach
– Data were collected through open‐ended survey questions collected from 80 young Generation Y college students, aged 18‐25.
Findings
– Findings show a low level of knowledge of the holistic principle of sustainability and specific adverse effects of the apparel industry. Participants feel steps must be taken towards sustainability, and that every effort helps, despite some skepticism. Results confirm the need for more concise educational and marketing campaigns.
Originality/value
– This study sought to provide a snapshot of current young consumers’ attitudes as a tool to encourage more specific and salient directions for future growth of the movement in consumers and companies, adding further insight to the literature on Generation Y as consumers and citizens.
This article seeks to address the branding and marketing of ecofashion or ethical fashion, juxtaposing the experiences of today's, often confused, fashion consumers, against the promotional methodologies used by, sometimes equally confused, fashion brands. Looking at the rise of ethical fashion, this article takes into consideration the factors that have influenced this. In addition, the lifestyle and societal indicators that effect consumer behavior in relation to purchasing ecofashion are also investigated. Further to this theoretical discussion, this article concludes with a reflection on today's practical manifestations of the branding and promotion of ecofashion, and the challenges ahead that both fashion brands, and consumers, face in the continuation and sustainability of ecofashion.
Language is created or co-opted to map and navigate the new territory of developing ideas. Ecofashion is part of that mapping: encompassing terms, adopting, and adapting many theories. The signpost for the ecofashion movement was the launch of Esprit Ecollection in November 1991. Over the last fifteen years the fashion industry, educational institutions, media, and consequently consumers have become more aware of the environmental and ecological movement. Environmental, ecological, green, sustainable, ethical, recycled, organic, and inclusive (universal) fashion and fashion design, as terms, coexist, cross-fertilize, and are readily confused. The lack of discussion of the phenomenon and debate has fueled misunderstandings, and terminology (especially in the general and fashion media) is often misused.Fashion as a design discipline has been late to investigate the theoretical greening of the design production loop, lagging behind industrial design and architecture, unlike consumer activist campaigns where fashion has been targeted more than other disciplines. The situation demonstrates the tension in fashion between theoretical and practical and the immediate social, economic, and environmental impact of decisions. To go forward, we need to be proactive and visionary in ideas and specifically language. In essence, we need to know the clear meaning of the language we use. Terminology provides definition, clarity, and boundaries which may be fought or celebrated. A lexicon is required. It is timely to consider language: its past, current, and future meanings.The article will discuss the terms used and their concept, history, and reality in the fashion industry and media. It will situate fashion within design areas addressing environmental, sustainable, ethical, and inclusive (universal) design, whilst identifying new and particular emerging terms.
In the April 2006 “Green issue of Vanity Fair, the editor, Graydon Carter, declared “Green Is the New Black. Fashion designers, such as Giorgio Armani, Oscar de la Renta, Stella McCartney, Betsey Johnson, and Todd Oldman are creating ecofashions for the runways, boutiques, mass markets, and especially for celebrities. Current eco-conscious designers create ecofashions far different than the stereotypical images of “eco-dress, such as rope sandals, tie-dye T-shirt, and hemp cargo pants established in the 1960s and often associated with the Hippie subculture that represented anti-fashion and empowered the wearer visual cues of his/her sociopolitical ideals and values associated with animal and human rights, and environmental issues. As a result, stereotypical eco-dress functioned as a “green commodity fetish imbued with “magical value that reflected the eco-conscious lifestyle.The introduction of current ecofashions challenges these understood stereotypical images and identities, especially among celebrities. Eco-conscious celebrities actively seek out ecofashions that are consistent with their “green lifestyles while non-verbally communicating their cultivated tastes and styles. Although sharing many of the same eco-conscious ideals, these new ecofashions do not share the same non-verbal communications as those garments worn in previous decades. By donning these “green or ecofashions celebrities have depoliticized highly charged sociopolitical issues, and as a result, ecofashion communicates only the aesthetic of the wearer. This article unpacks past eco-dress choices by deconstructing how the stereotypical eco-dress functioned as a commodity fetish within Western industrial capitalist society. It also analyzes the changing “magical meanings and values of the commodity fetishism associated with current ecofashions, giving particular attention to the new non-verbal communications and identities associated with ecofashions.
This paper elaborates on the motivational complexity of green consumerism using a simple model of motivation as an analytical tool. The objective is to provide insights into the challenges that environmentally concerned green consumers may face in the markets, as well as to illustrate the limitations of framing and targeting environmental policy measures in terms of individual motivation and morally responsible decision making. On the whole, the paper argues that as a private lifestyle project of a single individual, green consumerism is much too heavy a responsibility to bear. Therefore, the author joins the growing number of scholars who argue that in environmental policy the focus on individual consumers is limited and thus needs to be problematized.
Eco Chic: The Fashion Paradox
- S Black
Black, S. (2008), Eco Chic: The Fashion Paradox, Black Dog Publishing, London.
It's time for a fashion revolution
- S Ditty
Ditty, S. (2015), "It's time for a fashion revolution", white paper, Fashion Revolution CIC, London,
December.
Eco Chic: The Savvy Shoppers Guide to Ethical Fashion
- M Lee
Lee, M. (2007), Eco Chic: The Savvy Shoppers Guide to Ethical Fashion, Gaia Books, London.
Business strategy and the environment business strategy, environment
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Prakash, A. (2002), "Business strategy and the environment business strategy, environment", Green
Marketing, Public Policy and Managerial Strategies, Vol. 11 No. 5, pp. 285-297.
Further reading Choi
- Y Li
World Commission on Environment and Development (1987), Our Common Future, Oxford University
Press, Oxford.
Further reading
Choi, T.-M. and Li, Y. (2015), "Sustainability in fashion business operations", Sustainability, Vol. 7
No. 11, pp. 15400-15406.