The decades-long critique of the canon in the field led to an expansion of research to include the history of dress. Even so, the question about the origins of the newer phenomenon of "costume" has gone unanswered. Only with the more detailed studies of folklorism, as well as the deconstruction of the existing wisdom about so-called 'folk culture', has the discovery of folk costumes at the end of ... [Show full abstract] the 18th century become more plausible. That 'discovery' of actual examples soon became the 'invention' of an entire society's imagination. The theoretical orientation used here reflects the methodological practices of contemporary studies, namely that of historical phenomenologies. This occurs with the help of detailed, if not minute, critique of the sources of all available visual evidence and a broad swath of written materials of every kind. Reasonable answers in this realm will come about only if studies of culture of this kind employ rigorously historical methods.