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The death and life of sharing practices in the South: the case of clothes swapping in Colombia
Abstract
Stakeholders in regions like Latin America are abandoning practices such as reuse, renting, and swapping in favour of more linear approaches to consumption. For example, developing countries' trade negotiators openly oppose the inclusion of used, remanufactured and refurbished goods in trade agreements. Consumer demand for repair and maintenance services has decreased, as they prefer to buy new products. These trends are problematic because they translate into an increased demand for raw materials and larger amounts of waste that result in higher environmental impacts.
The loss of sharing practices in middle and low-income countries needs to be counteracted if a successful transition to a circular economy is to be achieved. Such endeavour requires a deep understanding of what these practices are, how they develop and why do they transform. Given the situated character of this phenomenon, it is essential to study cases that provide sufficient insights into the elements, the linkages and context. Most of the case studies on sharing practices have been conducted in the context of high-income countries, ignoring middle and low economies where demand for resources is expected to grow the most.
This paper addresses this gap by exploring a case study from Colombia on how a particular sharing practice, clothes swapping, has recently evolved and what has been done to sustain it. By using a survey and semi-structured interviews, the study collected data from participants involved in a long-standing initiative to promote swapping. The study describes the elements constituting the practice of exchanging and the process through which participants decided to get involved or abandon it and the particular context in which the practice was situated. The paper contributes to the understanding of sharing practices as a critical element for the transition towards a circular economy and practices by offering a case study from a middle-income economy.
... Second, an overview of factors influencing acceptance of circular solutions and the behaviors they entail, are provided based on existing literature on the topic (Camacho-Otero et al., 2018a). Finally, aspects that could enable the adoption of such offerings and behaviors using a social practice theory perspective (Camacho-Otero et al., 2018b) are addressed. ...
A move towards a circular economy will require fundamental changes in the way products and services are designed. However, tools for design in the context of the circular economy mostly have a narrow product or service focus without acknowledging the role of addressing behaviors and changing practices. This paper presents the results of an exploratory study investigating to what extent circular design tools consider and integrate aspects related to consumption and consumers. Using five circular tools publicly available, the research team analyzed how they address three aspects: circular consumer behaviors, consumer acceptance factors and conditions for adoption. Our analysis shows that although some of the tools acknowledge the need to gather insights around consumption and consumers, they do not address such aspects in detail. When the tools considered consumer aspects, they did so by acknowledging circular consumer behaviors. Rent and rebuy are the most frequently mentioned behaviors, while remunerate, retain and renounce are absent from the tools. Other behaviors such as receive, ritualize, regard, revalue, resell and relinquish are mentioned only once. The tools' lack of consideration of acceptance factors and contextual conditions is slightly surprising, as most of them advocate for a human-centered approach to product development. Existing circular design tools could thus benefit from integrating concepts and frameworks from fields such as design for sustainable behavior and practice-oriented design.
... Second, an overview of factors influencing acceptance of circular solutions and the behaviors they entail, are provided based on existing literature on the topic (Camacho-Otero et al., 2018a). Finally, aspects that could enable the adoption of such offerings and behaviors using a social practice theory perspective (Camacho-Otero et al., 2018b) are addressed. ...
With the rise of the circular economy, an initiative that aims at improving resource efficiency and thus, sustainability, a significant amount of research has been conducted about how businesses, cities, countries and regions can transition towards a circular future. Existing definitions of the circular economy do include the concept of consumption or specifically indicate that it is enabled by responsible consumers, besides business models. However, not much has been done describing what the circular economy means for consumption processes, for consumers, and policy initiatives supporting sustainable consumption. This lack of consideration of the consumption side of the circular economy results in the creation and development of solutions and interventions that may not address consumer needs, which can, in turn, prevent the diffusion of circular offerings and interventions. This research project aimed at expanding the knowledge about consumption in the specific context of the circular economy, and it does so by providing insights into three aspects. First, what are the implications of circularity for the consumption process? Second, what are the factors and conditions that enable the acceptance and the adoption of circular offerings by consumers? Lastly, how design tools for circularity incorporate consumption and consumers considerations that can help them create solutions that have a user perspective? The thesis comprises six papers addressing these three topics. The first study was a systematic literature review of the state of the art. Papers 2, 3 and 6 address the second research question about factors and conditions for acceptance and adoption by consumers. Papers 2 and 6 focus on consumer acceptance factors for two product categories, clothes and toys while paper 3 addresses conditions and processes of adoption for a circular practice, clothes swapping, using a social practice perspective. Paper 4 focuses on how consumption changes in a circular economy context based on the analysis of actions performed to access clothes. Paper 5 addressed the question about how circular design tools can integrate these concepts of the consumption process, consumer acceptance factors and adoption of circular practices.
Some of the findings presented in these papers include that the consumption process in the circular economy is not only about acquiring, using and disposing of products as suggested before, but it includes additional moments of appropriation,appreciation, devaluation and divestment within the using moment of consumption. Additionally, the process by which the circular economy and circular offerings are going to become mainstream and diffuse in society consists of at least two moments, acceptance and adoption. By having this dual approach, a zoom-in approach, that looks into the individual aspects that drive acceptance and a zoom-out approach to look for the conditions that enable circular offerings to become part of a practice and thus being adopted, circular economy stakeholders can better integrate relevant consumption and consumer considerations. Finally, the analyzed circular design tools are more focused on the production and technical process and don't guide how to engage consumption and consumer aspects.
From these findings, it is suggested that circular design tools acknowledge there is a consumption process for the solution they are creating by using the six-moment consumption process, so they can identify what it is that the consumer needs to do concerning their solution. Then they should zoom out and investigate the context of the circular offering and see what elements characterize the practice that serves as the context for the offering (the images, skills,material). It is also essential that they understand how the linkages between those elements can be intervened to facilitate. First, the integration of the offering into the context and second, they must find ways for that new practices to recruit people.
A circular economy (CE) aims at decoupling value creation from waste generation and resource use by radically transforming production and consumption systems. Recent reviews on the topic of the circular economy have indicated that cultural barriers are a significant factor hindering the diffusion of so-called ‘circular’ business models, particularly the lack of consumer—or user—acceptance. However, none of them has provided an overview of the existing literature addressing such issues that can help academics and practitioners better understand consumption considerations when addressing the circular economy. Motivated by these observations, this paper presents the results of a literature review that summarises and discusses insights from 111 articles in terms of the problem area, theoretical approaches, methods, and tools that have been used to collect and analyse data, the main issues, and identified research gaps. The results show that most of the existing scientific work on the circular economy and circular solutions addressing consumption has focussed on identifying factors that drive or hinder the consumption of circular solutions. A smaller but expanding set of articles has focussed on offering insights into the nature, meaning, and dynamics of consumption in the context of the circular economy. According to this set of articles, consumption in the circular economy is anonymous, connected, political, uncertain, and based on multiple values, not only utility. A smaller set of papers has explored the integration of user and consumer perspectives into design processes. Although these contributions are relevant, opportunities for further research are still open, particularly regarding socio-material and cultural aspects of consumption in the context of the circular economy, and the role of digitalisation. In addition, more work could be done regarding strategies to foster not only acceptance but also the adoption and diffusion of the circular economy. Based on the findings of this literature review, some ideas for a research agenda on the issue of consumption in the circular economy are outlined.
The circular economy is a platform to transition towards a more resource efficient system. Product service systems (PSS) and remanufacturing have been proposed as strategies to achieve material decoupling. Recent studies have found that their adoption has fallen short in the business-to-consumer sector, due to lack of consumer acceptance. Literature addressing this issue has failed to provide a systematic approach to the problem. By performing a structured search on Scopus and Web of Science, 24 papers focusing on consumer and user acceptance of remanufacturing and PSS were identified. By applying qualitative research methods, the articles were analysed using six categories: problem and research questions, definitions, theoretical background, issues, methods and research gaps. Resulting from the analysis an outline for a research agenda on the topic of consumer and user acceptance of PSS and remanufactured products is suggested. Such program needs to provide a definition of consumption, consumers and users in the circular economy including their role. It should explore external factors influencing acceptance, adoption and diffusion of PSS and remanufactured products such as cultural (norms, beliefs, codes) and demographic and their interaction with each other, to guide action. Answering this questions requires tools and devices from additional fields such as anthropology and sociotechnical studies complement the contributions already made by psychology and sociology.
Contamination poses a significant problem to the circular economy, which derives much of its value from maintaining pure material flows. The aim of this paper is to frame contaminated interaction among other forms of contamination and investigate its effects on the circular economy. The research is based on a review of the contamination literature and case studies. We differentiate between three types of contamination influencing circular material flows: technical, which deals with fitness for use; systemic, which deals with efficiency in processing; and interaction, which deals with user-object interaction and decision making. Our focus is on developing a foundational understanding of contaminated interaction and how it influences circular processes. Through multiple examples, contaminated interaction is shown to create three barriers to the circular economy: downcycling, disposal and hindered circulation. Among other proposals to address contaminated interaction, the research calls for the development of experientially transferrable design—products that can move between users and uses without negative consequences.
Purpose. Marketing scholars have devoted little attention to the study of practices which grant
multiple lives to goods. However, these practices can considerably extend products lifecycles
with far-reaching implications for traditional retailers and the economy. Accordingly, the study
provides scales for perceived impact and motivations of goods multiple lives practices, and
investigates the influence of impacts on motivations.
Methodology. A qualitative phase (three discussion groups and fifteen in-depth interviews)
identified consumers’ motivations and perceived impacts of goods multiple lives practices. Two
online surveys were then conducted on online panels, involving more than 2200 consumers, in
order to develop the measurement scales and test the structural model.
Findings. Results show that impacts measured only marginally influence economic motives but
account significantly for a broad range of other motivations (ecological, protester and social
contact motives).
Research limitations. The study design is cross-sectional lacking therefore causality. Replication
studies could cross-validate the findings by means of experimental research.
Practical implications. The findings may prove of specific interest to marketers and
organizations in the goods multiple lives sector seeking to harness consumer interest in these
types of practices for reasons above and beyond lone economic incentives.
Originality. This study is innovative in two regards: (1) It explores a relatively under-theorized
field in marketing, namely goods multiple lives practices; and, (2) It proposes a challenging
theoretical perspective which supposes that consumers’ perceived impact of their practices plays
a significant role in motivating them to engage in practices of the like.
Considerable work has focused on Collaborative Consumption (CC) from a managerial standpoint. Little academic research has been conducted into this specific concept. This paper proposes two theoretical contributions in that regard: 1) a definition of CC that enables to determine effectively whether any given resource distribution system can be labelled as CC or not; 2) the scope and limits of CC by contrasting it with other forms of exchanges. Consumers’ capacity to switch side from obtainment to provision or from “obtainer” to “provider” role constitutes the key criteria to identify a resource distribution system as being a form of CC. We define CC as the set of resource circulation systems which enable consumers to both obtain and provide, temporarily or permanently, valuable resources or services through direct interaction with other consumers or through a mediator. Collaborative Consumption is therefore a concept which stands in sharp contrast with the notion of Conventional Consumption. Conventional consumption – which underlies classic marketing thought – is a type of resource distribution system which involves passive consumers (not obtainers), who cannot, or are not given the capacity to, provide any resource or service (not providers). Incapable of engaging either in obtainment or in provision, their role is limited to that of buying – monetary exchange - and consuming organization-made resources or services, and, in the case of tangible resources, to discard them. In contrast, Collaborative Consumption involves not mere “consumers” but “obtainers” who may also be “providers”. In sum, consumers’ capacity to switch roles from provider to obtainer and from obtainer to provider, in a given resource distribution system constitutes the key distinguishing criteria between conventional consumption and CC. We also introduce the consumer process that is specific to Collaborative Consumption by emphasizing that CC involves not only delegation, such as in conventional consumption, but also empowerment and quasi-empowerment. More specifically, delegation assumes that there is a clear distinction between organizations which produce and sell goods and consumers who buy those goods produced and sold by organizations. Consumers rely on organization-made advertising, texts, logos, labels, trademarks, brands and other communication to choose among the broad array of goods or other types of resources that are offered to them. Empowerment means that consumers are empowered to collaborate directly with each other. They organize, arrange and negotiate informally the terms and conditions of the exchange of valuable resources, including goods or services. Under the concept of empowerment, consumers engage in what we call pure collaboration, where both the obtainer and the provider are consumers, such as in a secondhand purchase or sale at a flea market. As a middle-ground between delegation and empowerment, quasi-empowerment involves consumer-to-consumer exchanges that are mediated by a third-party, which is typically an organization. Under the concept of quasi-empowerment, consumers engage either in sourcing collaboration or in trading collaboration. Sourcing collaboration means that the provider provides a resource or service to the obtainer through a mediator. On the other hand, trading collaboration means that the obtainer obtains a resource from the provider through that specific mediator.
The sustainable product-service system (SPSS) concept highlights that achieving sustainability requires changes in both ‘production’ and ‘consumption’. Nevertheless, attention has focused mainly on ‘production’. This paper enriches the SPSS approach with insights from the sociology of consumption and practice theory to provide a deeper understanding of the use of products and services in daily life contexts. The paper advances three key insights related to: a) the internal dynamics of user practices, b) the strength of linkages of practice elements (loose and tight coupling), c) external linkages to other practices. These insights are mobilised to provide a deeper understanding of the uptake and diffusion of innovations such as SPSS. The insights are illustrated with two cases in which interventions designed to stimulate diffusion have had differential success: energy efficient light bulbs and low temperature laundry. Implications for understanding the diffusion of SPSS are discussed.
Postmodern explanations of consumer behaviour stress social and psychological factors to the neglect of explanations based on structural issues such as the working life conditions which favour a work-and-spend lifestyle, the conditions of urban living or the effects of pervasive marketing. This paper argues that consumers may not be so keen and willing but are rather locked-in by circumstances. Some of these circumstances are deliberately created by other interests, and a policy to limit consumption must look for adequate means over a large and varied field. In the end shorter working hours may be an important key to a more sustainable future.
This article considers the relationships between consumption, the environment, and wider sociological endeavour. The current vogue for applying theories of practice to the policy domain of ‘sustainable consumption’ has been generative of conceptual renewal, however the field now sits closer to the applied environmental social sciences than to the sociology of consumption. The analysis proceeds via a close reading of the intellectual currents that have given rise to this situation, and it identifies a number of interrelated issues concerning conceptual slippage and the exclusion of core disciplinary concerns. Accordingly a more suitable definition of consumption is offered, an agenda for re-engaging with foundational approaches to consumer culture is established, and a renewal and reorientation of critique is proposed. Working through and building on the contributions of practice theoretical repertoires, this article suggests that consumption scholarship offers a distinctive set of resources to discussions of current ecological crises and uncertain social futures. These are briefly described and the conclusion argues that consumption still matters.
While apparel businesses leveraging the sharing economy have begun to emerge in recent years, academic research on "sharing" consumption for apparel is extremely limited. To fill this research gap, the researchers analyze current literature to present a conceptual framework that offers a durable theoretical foundation about the concept of collaborative consumption for apparel. Using a metatheory approach, the researchers develop a framework that explores how two major Internet-supported collaborative consumption modes (utility-based non-ownership and redistributed ownership) manifest in an apparel context. Next, the researchers explore the implications of each consumption mode to understand the consumer's relationship with the product, peers, and businesses involved in these sharing schemes. A series of research propositions are also developed to stimulate discussion and future research about collaborative apparel consumption. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.
This article aims to make a contribution to a more nuanced, theory-based interpretation of current dynamics of Collaborative Consumption (CC). First, I develop my own definition of CC practices, highlighting the engagement of at least two individuals who get involved in direct interaction and make use of the same units of goods and services. This conceptualisation leads me to a compilation of some exemplary CC practices. Empirical data shows a very uneven diffusion of these practices in France and in Germany. Social Practice Theory (SPT) is suggested as very fruitful theoretical framework to explain these diverging dynamics. To illustrate the usefulness of this approach, I then compare two specific CC forms, P2P accommodation and cohousing. My analysis shows that P2P accommodation has formed a highly attractive practice configuration with very good chances to ‘recruit hosts’, while cohousing presents a rather demanding ‘practice-as-entity’ with rather restricted opportunities to find practitioners. To conclude, I suggest to complement SPT with insights from the Multi-Level-Perspective in order to better account for ‘systemic’, vertical processes, which affect the ‘availability’ of practice elements.
The purpose of this exploratory study was to discover the benefits individuals attained from participating in in-person clothing swap parties and clothing swap Web sites. Data collection occurred through observation of five clothing swap parties, 16 in-depth interviews with participants of swap parties, and observation of five online swap sites. The findings revealed three themes: (i) giving, (ii) receiving, and (iii) socializing. The findings suggest that the traditional consumption cycle may be broadened as clothing swaps allow acquisition and disposal to occur simultaneously. Findings also revealed the extent to which the swapping culture is contingent upon socializing.
This introductory article of the special issue compares different conceptual underpinnings of efforts to make the everyday activities of consumers more sustainable. As social practice theory (SPT) is the main theoretical foundation of the articles collected here, we outline its strengths and limitations, when compared with the dominant individual-oriented behaviour change approach, and we focus on theories of planned behaviour, social marketing as well as 'choice architecture', based on behavioural economics. This article analyses SPT's usefulness, particularly from the applied point of view for policy-makers and social change programme designers. In the final section we provide some recommendations. These consider the need for greater reflexivity and experimentation with the practices of policy- and programme-making and the building of coalitions of 'distributed interveners'. They also relate to the need for more focus on consumers' workplace practices alongside domestic practices and analysis of and intervention in the material environments and objects in which social practices are embedded. Finally, they are concerned with the identification of moments of transition in consumers' lives and they focus on the 'transition practices' that familiarize people with their new life situations.
The purpose of this study was to understand how fashion-oriented females in two different countries evaluate three use-oriented product–service systems (PSS): clothing consultancy, renting and swapping. A mixed-method approach was utilized, including focus group interviews and a questionnaire. Both countries exhibited a higher level of interest in use-oriented PSS schemes than product-oriented offerings. Positive evaluations of use-oriented PSS included the ability to reduce excess consumption via smarter purchasing, becoming more knowledgeable about personal style and fit, and enhancing creativity with items already owned. Participants also positively evaluated the ability for some PSS concepts to satisfy their desire for change and social support or interaction as well as to save money and increase product satisfaction. Negative evaluations included lack of trust in the provider related to issues such as quality, maintenance and hygiene of shared goods as well as skepticism about the business model's viability. Copyright © 2015 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd and ERP Environment
Since the 1990s, Product Service Systems (PSS) have been heralded as one of the most effective instruments for moving society towards a resource-efficient, circular economy and creating a much-needed ‘resource revolution’. This paper reviews the literature on PSS in the last decade and compares the findings with those from an earlier review in this journal in 2006. Close to 300 relevant papers were identified, over 140 of which have been referenced in this review. Research in the field of PSS has become more prolific, with the output of refereed papers quadrupling since 2000, while on average scientific output has only doubled. PSS has also become embedded in a wider range of science fields (such as manufacturing, ICT, business management, and design) and geographical regions (Asia now produces more papers than Europe). The literature of the last seven years has refined insights with regard to the design of PSS, as well as their business and environmental benefits, and confirmed the definitions and PSS concepts already available in 2006. A major contribution of the recent literature is research into how firms have implemented PSS in their organization and what the key success factors and issues that require special attention are (such as a focus on product availability for clients; an emphasis on diversity in terms of services provided rather than the range of products; and the need for staff to possess both knowledge of the product and relationship management skills). The reasons why PSS have nonetheless still not been widely implemented, particularly in the B2C context, seem to have already been explained fairly well in the literature available in 2006. For consumers, having control over things, artifacts, and life itself is one of the most valued attributes. PSS are often less accessible, or have less intangible value, than the competing product, in part because PSS usually do not allow consumers as much behavioral freedom or even leave them with the impression that the PSS provider could prescribe how they should behave.
This article explores the potential role of design in fostering absolute reductions in everyday consumption. It links ambitions to achieve absolute reductions to concepts from social theories of practice and design. Practice theory directs attention towards expectation levels, opening up questions about sufficiency. Design activity is often pointed out as a potential key instrument for creating change in sustainable directions, and the social practice as a relevant starting point for such work. Little attention is however paid to what may help and hinder practice-oriented initiatives. Consequently, this article asks what the role of design may be in fostering actual reductions in resource use when social practices continuously are in flux, and, what the space for action is, given societal arrangements rooted in ideas about boundless consumption.
This article considers the potential of a revival of interest in theories of practice for the study of consumption. It presents an abridged account of the basic precepts of a theory of practice and extracts some broad principles for its application to the analysis of final consumption. The basic assumption is that consumption occurs as items are appropriated in the course of engaging in particular practices and that being a competent practitioner requires appropriation of the requisite services, possession of appropriate tools, and devotion of a suitable level of attention to the conduct of the practice. Such a view stresses the routine, collective and conventional nature of much consumption but also emphasizes that practices are internally differentiated and dynamic. Distinctive features of the account include its understanding of the way wants emanate from practices, of the processes whereby practices emerge, develop and change, of the consequences of extensive personal involvements in many practices, and of the manner of recruitment to practices. The article concludes with discussion of some theoretical, substantive and methodological implications.
We examine alternative consumption including collaborative consumption, sharing, and unconsumption (i.e., postconsumption activities such as upcycling, reuse, recycling, etc.) at non-monetary-based private and public sharing events including Really Really Free Markets (RRFMs). These alternative marketplaces (RRFMs) were initially organized by the Anarchist Movement as a form of resistance to the capitalist economic model. However, many consumer groups now utilize this model to stage public sharing events as a means of raising awareness about various issues including sustainability and overconsumption. Participants bring, share, and take goods without any expectation of monetary or other exchange. There is limited research on collaborative consumption and sharing in non-monetary marketplaces. We address this gap by exploring alternative marketplaces, organized by consumers for consumers, utilizing qualitative research methods. Our findings indicate that a sense of community is both a driver of participation and an outcome of these events. Organizers and participants utilize these venues to share knowledge and possessions for various ideological and practical reasons. Our findings also indicate that these events challenge the entrenched notions of exchange and reciprocity. Our research contributes to the literature by highlighting the importance of community, collaboration, and changing consumer mindsets to the success of such sharing efforts. Copyright © 2012 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.
This paper considers the value of using interviews to research routine practices. Interviewing could easily be framed as inappropriate for this task, either because such practices are too difficult for respondents to talk about as a result of having sedimented down into unthinking forms of embodied disposition or because this method is out of step with a current enthusiasm for research styles that do not focus unduly on the representational. The discussion starts with how some key proponents of social practice theory have characterised the possibility of talking with people about these matters before turning to my own experience with two interview projects that attempted to do so inside city offices and older person households. I conclude that people can often talk in quite revealing ways about actions they may usually take as a matter of course and offer suggestions about how to encourage them.
The dynamics behind ever-increasing consumption have long been a core issue of ecological economics. Studies on this topic have traditionally drawn not only on insights from economics, but also from such disciplines as sociology, anthropology and psychology. In recent years, a practice theory approach has emerged in sociological consumption studies, as part of a general wave of renewed interest in practice theory emanating from a desire to move beyond such dominant dualisms as the structure-actor opposition in sociology. The purpose of this paper is to introduce the practice theory approach in relation to studies of everyday life, domestic practices and consumption, and to argue that this approach can be fruitful for ecological economics and other fields interested in the environmental aspects of consumption. The paper emphasizes the immense challenge involved in promoting sustainable consumption, and the need for collective efforts supported by research into the co-evolution of domestic practices, systems of provision, supply chains and production.
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