Guidelines for Formulating Anti-Pollution Products

Abstract

Anti-pollution skin care and cosmetic products are witnessing a significant growth in the last couple of years due to worsening air quality across the world, and increasing awareness and concern regarding the adverse impact of various environmental pollutants on skin. The various pollutants, like particulate matter, oxides of nitrogen and sulphur, ozone, and polyaromatic hydrocarbons damage skin by different mechanism resulting in skin dryness, loss of firmness, dark spots, uneven skin tone, fine lines and wrinkles, aggravation of acne, and inflammation. The task of developing globally harmonized products is very challenging due differences in skin types according to ethnicity, variation in seasonal weather pattern, differences in benefit expectations, and variances in personal care and cosmetics usage habits of consumers in different regions of the world. However, an increasing understanding about the mechanism by which various pollutants damage the skin manifesting into various extrinsic signs of skin damage and development of various actives that counter the impact of different environmental aggressors has helped formulators to develop different products and to establish efficacy by in vitro and in vivo tests. The article summarizes approaches for formulation development, and a list of few actives classified based in their mechanism action is given. A representative list of products based on their mechanism of action is also given and few potential opportunities for the future are suggested.

Full text

cosmetics
Review
Guidelines for Formulating Anti-Pollution Products
Niraj Mistry
Independent Consultant, Mumbai 400093, India; niraj01mistry@gmail.com; Tel.: +91-99-8701-3431
Received: 27 October 2017; Accepted: 13 December 2017; Published: 18 December 2017
Abstract:
Anti-pollution skin care and cosmetic products are witnessing a significant growth in the last
couple of years due to worsening air quality across the world, and increasing awareness and concern
regarding the adverse impact of various environmental pollutants on skin. The various pollutants,
like particulate matter, oxides of nitrogen and sulphur, ozone, and polyaromatic hydrocarbons
damage skin by different mechanism resulting in skin dryness, loss of firmness, dark spots, uneven
skin tone, fine lines and wrinkles, aggravation of acne, and inflammation. The task of developing
globally harmonized products is very challenging due differences in skin types according to ethnicity,
variation in seasonal weather pattern, differences in benefit expectations, and variances in personal
care and cosmetics usage habits of consumers in different regions of the world. However, an
increasing understanding about the mechanism by which various pollutants damage the skin
manifesting into various extrinsic signs of skin damage and development of various actives that
counter the impact of different environmental aggressors has helped formulators to develop different
products and to establish efficacy by
in vitro
and
in vivo
tests. The article summarizes approaches
for formulation development, and a list of few actives classified based in their mechanism action is
given. A representative list of products based on their mechanism of action is also given and few
potential opportunities for the future are suggested.
Keywords:
anti-pollution; skin barrier; antioxidants; pigmentation; dark spots; lentigines; aging; fine
lines; wrinkles; inflammation
1. Introduction
“Anti-pollution” is one of the recent buzz words in Personal Care and Cosmetics industry
and “Anti-pollution” products are witnessing significant growth in the last couple of years due to
combination of several factors some of which are:
- worsening air quality particularly in large metro cities in Asia as well as in the West;
- growing urbanization and increasing visibility of pollution;
-
increasing awareness and concern about the adverse impact of environment pollution on health,
wellness, and beauty;
- better scientific understanding of impact of environment pollution on skin;
-
development of many new active ingredients to protect skin from the adverse impact of
environmental aggressors;
- launch and promotion of many products claiming wide range of benefits; and,
-
development of hybrid/multifunctional products leveraging the existing habits to deliver
anti-pollution benefits.
2. Worsening Air Quality and Growing Importance of Anti-Pollution Products
Pollution has long been a consumer concern in Asia due to high level of pollution in cities like
Shanghai and Beijing in China, New Delhi and Bangalore in India, and Karachi in Pakistan. Although,
pollution level is not high in Europe and North America, pollution is now making headlines in west
Cosmetics 2017,4, 57; doi:10.3390/cosmetics4040057 www.mdpi.com/journal/cosmetics

Cosmetics 2017,4, 57 2 of 16
and recently pollution level across continent of Africa has also increased significantly [
1
]. As a result,
though the anti-pollution movement first began in Asia Pacific region, it is finally moving into western
markets also and hundreds of commercially successful products can be seen in nearly every major
market across the world [2].
High pollution levels were initially confined to industrialized and urban areas, however it is now
just not restricted to big cities and air quality has taken hit across the board. According to a recent
WHO report, only 12% of the people living in cities that are reporting on air quality are exposed to
environment where the air quality complies with WHO air quality guideline levels. About half of the
urban population being monitored is exposed to air pollution that is at least 2.5 times higher than the
levels WHO recommends [
3
]. Today 54% of global population is urbanized, as compared to just 34%
in 1960, and by 2050, it is projected that 6.4 billion people will live in large cities [
4
]. Recently, a very
interesting report with a list of most wrinkle prone cities in 2040 has been published [5].
Various consumer surveys undertaken by different research agencies and various companies show
varied numbers regarding consumer awareness and concern about the impact of pollution. However,
an overview of all the studies clearly point towards growing importance and a huge potential of
anti-pollution cosmetics across the world.
More than 80% of consumers worldwide think, skin absorbs pollution from air. Pollution, dirt,
and chemicals from vehicle emissions, plants, factories, cigarette smoke, etc. are seen by consumers as
one of the largest causes of skin problems [
6
]. According to a recent survey, 19% of US consumers, 36%
European, and 37% Asian consumers identify pollution as a major source of aggression on skin. Among
the Asian consumers, the highest concern for deleterious impact of pollution is witnessed by Chinese
consumer, and 41% say they are worried about pollution. German, Spanish, and French women aged
45–54 feel concerns for environmental agents adversely affecting their appearance, the highest concern
being expressed by French women [7].
According to another survey, 79% of all the global new skin care products marketed in Q1 2016
brandished an Anti-pollution claim [
8
]. 38% of new products between January and October 2016 in
this category were in Asia-Pacific market [
9
]. China is the APAC leader of new anti-pollution skincare
product launches in 2016, and has remained in the top position in Q1 2017 [10,11].
There has been a sharp increase in searches for the term “Anti-Pollution skin care and
formulations”. The ingredients that power these anti-pollution products are also seeing a boost
in their search volume [
12
]. It is believed that anti-pollution skin care is beyond a trend: it is a real
concern that is here to stay [13].
In China, although 61% consumer report “feeling very concerned” about atmospheric pollution,
just 17% of consumers think anti-pollution products are “very useful” and only 25% have bought
anti-pollution skin care product. The data for India also show a similar gap between awareness,
concern, and actual usage of anti-pollution products [
14
]. This gap not only indicates a huge untapped
market opportunity, but also poses a complex technical challenge to develop efficacious product that
deliver the desired benefit effectively and convincingly.
There are several factors that make development of globally harmonized anti-pollution products
a massive challenge. The range of pollutants and environmental hazards that affect consumers in
different parts of the world is incredibly diverse, with wide variations occurring even within the
smallest country [
15
]. The differences in skin types according to ethnicity, variation in seasonal weather
pattern, differences in benefit expectations and variances in personal care, and cosmetics usage habits
of consumers in different regions of the world makes the task of developing globally harmonized
anti-pollution products very challenging [16].
The first step towards development of efficacious products is better understanding of the various
environmental aggressors and mechanism by which they impact skin. A study of different active
ingredients available, their mechanism of action can also help in active selection. A review of various
anti-pollution products currently available in the market, different benefits claims, and better consumer

Cosmetics 2017,4, 57 3 of 16
insights can also be very useful for developing a comprehensive approach for formulating and
marketing of new products.
3. Understanding Impact of Pollution
The sources of environment pollution are diverse, including vehicular traffic and exhausts, coal
burning power plants, industrial combustion, cigarette smoke, indoor domestic kitchen cooking fires,
and Volatile Organic Compounds. The pollutants in these sources include Particulate Matter (PM),
oxides of carbon, sulfur and nitrogen, ozone, free radicals, and other airborne chemicals, like pesticides,
chemical sprays, and hydrocarbons [17].
Many
in vitro
and
in vivo
studies have been carried out by different researchers to examine the
effect of these different environmental aggressors on skin and a summary of the findings from some of
these studies is given below:
The information on how exactly air pollution could damage skin is limited. However, there are
some studies that have begun to investigate the issue, and some consensus has been reached about the
various types impact of air pollution on skin. Self-evaluation by consumers has confirmed that skin
quality is impacted by the bad environmental conditions and depending on skin type, people observe
an aggravation of their skin problem e.g., dry and dull skin, dark spots and uneven skin tone, wrinkles
and fine lines, oily skin and acne, sensitive skin, and imperfection [18].
Most of the experts agree that pollution can damage skin barrier, result in depletion of vitamin E
and squalene level, and breakdown of collagen and elastin exacerbating existing skin problems such
as dehydrated skin, hyperpigmentation, photoaging, excessive sebum secretion, inflammation and
sensitive skin, eczema, and atopic dermatitis [19].
Skin’s protective proteins—keratin in the outer layer and collagen in the lower layer-guard against
moisture loss and maintain skin’s elasticity. The defensive capacity that is provided by keratin and
collagen is limited and if the level of air pollution becomes too high, it could potentially overload these
protective proteins resulting in disturbances in or even damage to skin’s protective structure [20].
The formation of dark spots, also called lentigines, increases with levels of traffic-related air
pollution and soot particles from traffic pollution are associated with a more pronounced nasolabial
fold resulting in increased visible aging effect.
Studies conducted
in vivo
, under real life conditions of exposure have shown an increase of
production sebum and composition of sebum is also modified [21].
4. Mechanism of Skin Damage
Skin exposed to pollution areas experiences a higher sebum secretion rate and higher amount
of lactic acid, resulting in a decrease in subcutaneous pH when compared to non-polluted areas.
Cholesterol, Squalene, and vitamin E, which are the main antioxidants at the surface of the skin are
decreased in polluted areas, as these antioxidants are mobilized to combat oxidative stress in the
skin. This results in lower ratio of squalene/lipids, poorer cohesion of stratum corneum, and higher
erythematous index (redness).
Some of the parameters that can be used as potential anti-pollution markers are skin pH, level of
vitamin E, lactic acid, elastin, collagen, and skin lipids, such as triglycerides, free fatty acids, squalene,
wax esters, and cholesterol, which are believed to decrease with pollution. The other parameters,
such as the sebum secretion rate, and the levels of glycosylation end products, malondialdehyde,
squalene monohydroperoxide, oxidized proteins, interleukin IL1a, and adenosine triphosphate increase
with pollution.
The environmental pollutants seem to act according to a common mechanism involving the Aryl
Hydrocarbon Receptor (AhR) that can be found on several types of skin cells, such as keratinocytes,
fibroblasts, melanocytes, and Langerhans cells. It is believed that it is the activation of this
receptor under the effect of various environmental aggressors that triggers in cells the expression of
various genes controlling the reactions related to oxidative stress, the induction of pigmentation or

Cosmetics 2017,4, 57 4 of 16
inflammation, immunosuppression, and premature aging. Atmospheric antagonists can cause their
harmful effects via their impact on the function of key enzymes and biocatalysts within the human
body [22].
Air pollutants consists of a heterogenous mixture of PM and organic substances, like Polyaromatic
Hydrocarbons (PAH), such as benzo[a]pyrene (BaP) that is bound to the surface of these particles. Even
simple surface interactions can drastically alter the composition of the skin, influencing surface barrier
function, increasing Trans Epidermal Water Loss, and compromising skin hydration. In addition,
these pollutants are capable of penetrating into deeper layers of epidermis and can adversely impact
the skin especially because its physical properties make it highly reactive towards surfaces and
biological structures.
PM also adversely impacts expression of hydrophobic epidermal lipids including cholesterol
sulfate, phospholipids, sphingomyelin, and glucosylceramides, which are key components for barrier
function. PM also affects expression of Claudin-1 which is an important protein involved in the
integrity of tight junctions.
PM in pollutants can lead to an increase in cytokine levels. Lung mRNA levels of antioxidant/
phase II detoxifying enzymes also decreases due to exposure to the PM. The exposure to PM also
reduces mRNA levels of involucrin, transglutaminase-1, and E-cadherin, which are the markers of
skin barrier function and play a role in skin cohesion and mechanical resistance to stress. The level of
enzyme Caspase 14 that is required for filaggrin degradation into natural moisturizing factors (NMF)
also decreases due to the action of PM.
The cytoplasmic transcription factor AhR is activated in the presence of pollutants that induce the
expression of genes responsible for changes in the barrier function, in melanogenesis and inflammation,
in addition to inducing oxidative stresses in human skin. This results skin dehydration, pigment spot
formation, and in increased signs of extrinsic aging, including wrinkle formation and loss of firmness
and elasticity [23].
The fine dust particles initially deplete skin of antioxidants and leave skin feeling dry. Continued
exposure may lead to premature wrinkles and larger than normal pore size, and, in some cases,
result in oily skin. Air pollutants, PM, and PAH enter the skin and generate quinones, which are
redox-cycling chemicals that produce Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS). The PM increases the amount of
ROS that triggers the upregulation of metalloproteinases which in turn leads to extrinsic aging and
skin pigmentation. The exposure to Poly Aromatic Compounds enhances the level of oxidative stress
and genotoxic damage, and thus contributes to skin aging process [17].
It was also observed that metals present in PM are largely responsible for the observed oxidative
stress. Metals promote ROS production and cause antioxidant response element (ARE) promoter
activation. ARE is a cis-acting enhancer sequence that is found in the promoter region of many
genes encoding antioxidant and Phase II detoxification enzymes/proteins. In response to oxidative
stress, regulatory proteins, such as NRF1, NRF3, and BACH1 bind to AREs and compete for binding
with NRF2. NRF2 mediates a transcriptional network of responsive genes that modulate
in vivo
mechanisms against oxidative damage and reactive electrophiles.
Ozone disturbs stratum corneum lipid constituents that are known to be critical determinants of
the barrier function. Ozone speeds up skin ageing by depleting vitamin E levels in the skin, interfering
with wound-healing processes, and causing oxidative stress. Ozone has also been found to influence
lipid peroxidation levels, which, could in turn, lead to additional additive effects of the other stressors
like Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbon.
The results of a recent study linked the formation of dark spots on the skin—known as
lentigines—with levels of traffic-related air pollution and more particularly to the level of NO
2
.
The study also showed that the most significant changes were revealed in cheeks of Asian women and
NO2had a slightly stronger effect than PM concentration [24].
PM induces oxidative stress, production of ROS, and secretion of pro-inflammatory cytokines,
resulting in lipid peroxidation and DNA damage. This further increases matrix metallo proteinases,

Cosmetics 2017,4, 57 5 of 16
(MMPs)-1, -2, and -9, which degrade collagen. In a separate study, over a five-year period, ozone was
strongly linked to wrinkle formation due to antioxidant and collagen depletion [25].
Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, commonly found in air pollution, are known to also induce
an inflammatory response. AhR activation potentiates inflammation, which eventually overwhelms
the skin’s natural defenses depleting its antioxidant capacity and contributing to a background
inflammatory environment and disrupting the skin barrier function.
It is observed that exacerbation of acne due to pollution is linked to inflammatory processes, and
while the prevalence of acne is similar between Asian and Caucasian women, Asian women experience
inflammatory acne more frequently and report flare-ups during high pollution periods. This review
revealed that acne is believed to have multiple causes based on three main observations: increased
sebum production, abnormal keratinization, and, more recently, inflammatory reactions [26].
Ozone has been shown to increase cytochrome p450 activation via the AhR. Once in the skin,
the ROS causes a lipid peroxidation cascade, which stimulates the release of other proinflammatory
mediators from keratinocytes and melanocytes, thus establishing a vicious inflammatory cycle,
with infiltration of other potentiating cells such as neutrophils and phagocytic cells.
5. Formulating Anti-Pollution Products
Pollution affects skin a several different ways and it is difficult to develop globally harmonized
products due variations in level and type of pollution, difference in skin type according to ethnicity,
as well as different benefit expectations by consumers in different parts of the world. However, based
on the above understanding of nature of pollutants and mechanism by which they damage skin,
generic guidelines for formulating new products can be developed. It is also difficult to develop a
single product that can deliver several different benefits and ideally a regime involving the use of
multiple products may be necessary.
A general strategy for product development is a routine including topical products that remove,
repair, and protect. Most products currently available in the market counter the effect of pollution in
one or several of the following manners: (Figure 1)
- reduce particle load on skin by cleansing or exfoliation;
- prevent deposition and penetration of pollutants on skin;
- restore and strengthen the skin’s protective barrier structure and function;
- reduce trans epidermal water loss and thus improve skin hydration;
- replenish antioxidant reserves;
- reduce inflammation;
- control melanogenesis;
- promote collagen/elastin synthesis; and,
-
protect skin from harmful UV rays which exacerbate effect of the other environmental pollutants.
Cosmetics 2017, 4, 57 5 of 16
the skin’s natural defenses depleting its antioxidant capacity and contributing to a background
inflammatory environment and disrupting the skin barrier function.
It is observed that exacerbation of acne due to pollution is linked to inflammatory processes, and
while the prevalence of acne is similar between Asian and Caucasian women, Asian women
experience inflammatory acne more frequently and report flare-ups during high pollution periods.
This review revealed that acne is believed to have multiple causes based on three main observations:
increased sebum production, abnormal keratinization, and, more recently, inflammatory reactions
[26].
Ozone has been shown to increase cytochrome p450 activation via the AhR. Once in the skin, the
ROS causes a lipid peroxidation cascade, which stimulates the release of other proinflammatory
mediators from keratinocytes and melanocytes, thus establishing a vicious inflammatory cycle, with
infiltration of other potentiating cells such as neutrophils and phagocytic cells.
5. Formulating Anti-Pollution Products
Pollution affects skin a several different ways and it is difficult to develop globally harmonized
products due variations in level and type of pollution, difference in skin type according to ethnicity,
as well as different benefit expectations by consumers in different parts of the world. However, based
on the above understanding of nature of pollutants and mechanism by which they damage skin,
generic guidelines for formulating new products can be developed. It is also difficult to develop a
single product that can deliver several different benefits and ideally a regime involving the use of
multiple products may be necessary.
A general strategy for product development is a routine including topical products that remove,
repair, and protect. Most products currently available in the market counter the effect of pollution in
one or several of the following manners: (Figure 1)
- reduce particle load on skin by cleansing or exfoliation;
- prevent deposition and penetration of pollutants on skin;
- restore and strengthen the skin’s protective barrier structure and function;
- reduce trans epidermal water loss and thus improve skin hydration;
- replenish antioxidant reserves;
- reduce inflammation;
- control melanogenesis;
- promote collagen/elastin synthesis; and,
- protect skin from harmful UV rays which exacerbate effect of the other environmental
pollutants.
Figure 1. Environment pollutants, skin damage and guidelines for produce design.
In addition, any solution aimed at alleviating the effects of pollution must address skin sensation
as well as appearance.
Chinese products are relatively more focused on hydration and whitening claims, whereas
Japanese brands stand out on UV protection, brightening and hydration claims. South Korea is more
Figure 1. Environment pollutants, skin damage and guidelines for produce design.

Cosmetics 2017,4, 57 6 of 16
In addition, any solution aimed at alleviating the effects of pollution must address skin sensation
as well as appearance.
Chinese products are relatively more focused on hydration and whitening claims, whereas
Japanese brands stand out on UV protection, brightening and hydration claims. South Korea is more
active with natural and “free from” products and overall Southeast Asian markets have relatively
higher portion of male targeted products. In Europe and North America, products that are fortified
with antioxidants and vitamins claiming skin strengthening, repair, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging
benefits draws more traction, and features like “organic” and “environmentally friendly” are preferred
particularly in Europe. LATAM and Southeast Asia are more active in the cleanse and protect space [
16
].
Also, one of the growing trends in cosmetic industry is the use of multifunctional hybrid products
and this offers ideal opportunity for entry of anti-pollution products/benefits by tagging with existing
products offering anti-aging, skin brightening, and sun protection benefits. Anti-pollution benefits
can also be offered in different product formats like make up powders, facial wipes, masks, mists,
and exfoliating products.
6. Active Ingredients and Products
In the following section, a summary a few select active indigents that can be used in Anti-Pollution
products, classified based on their mechanism of action is given. The list is not exhaustive and there
are many other active ingredient options that are available in each of these categories. Many ingredient
suppliers have developed materials that are a mixture of actives with different mechanism of actions,
and as a result, some of the actives given below may fit in several different categories of actives.
6.1. Cleansing and Use of Film Forming Polymers
The first approach to alleviate or prevent impact of environmental aggressors is to control
deposition and penetration of PM on skin and to remove the deposited or penetrated pollutants. There
are several surfactants and barrier-forming polymeric materials that can be used in different product
formats, like cleansers, masks, exfoliators, moisturizers, and even wipes and mists. The surfactant
selected should be such that it is not harsh on skin and the use of such products should not result in
increasing the penetration of pollutants in the skin pores.
Activated Charcoal with high porosity helps to draw toxins from pollution up and out of the
skin [
27
]. Solid adsorbent materials, like Kaolin, Magnesium Aluminum silicate, and scrubs, like coffee
beans and Rice Bran, are also used in many anti-pollution products, like masks and exfoliators. PEG 20
Glyceryl Triisostearate is reported have the right Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance to effectively remove
PM from skin, and it is also a mild surfactant [28].
Biosaccharide gum-4, an anionic, deacetylated branched polysaccharide of high molecular weight,
forms non-occlusive barrier and has matrix-forming properties that protects skin against different
environmental aggressors [29].
Brassica Campestris and Aleurites Fordii Oil Copolymer is made from Tung (China wood) and
Rapeseed oil. It forms a flexible and uniform film on the skin for even coverage and has the power
to stay on skin longer, delivering superior protection from damage that is caused by environmental
aggressors. In a clinical anti-pollution study, treatment with this active showed a 32% improvement in
the protection from microparticles [30].
An active ingredient blend consisting of Lecithin, Acrylic Acid/Acryl amidomethyl Propane
Sulfonic Acid Copolymer, Dimethyl methoxy Chromanol, Xanthan Gum, Glyceryl Caprylate, and
Diisopropyl Adipate provides a barrier between the skin and the harmful ambient substances and
can help prevent the accumulation of pollution particles in epidermis. In addition, metal chelating
properties of various ingredients in the blend also increases its capacity to resist harm caused by heavy
metals [31].
A few examples of products that use this approach for delivering anti-pollution benefits are Pond’s
Men Pollution Out Face Wash with a combination of Charcoal and Coffee Bean Scrub, Bioelements

Cosmetics 2017,4, 57 7 of 16
Advanced Vita Mineral Deep Detox Mask with Activated Charcoal, Cosmedix Deep Cleansing mask
with a combination of Kaolin clay, salicylic acid and Sulphur, Tata Harper’s Purifying Cleanser and
Mask with Kaolin and Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, and Etude House Dust Cut Facial Mist with
shield forming polymer.
6.2. Strengthening Skin Barrier and Improving Hydration
Pollution damages or weakens the skin’s natural barrier resulting in higher and deeper penetration
of pollutants, which, in turn, affects the morphology and integrity of skin structure. The damaged
barrier also leads to higher trans epidermal water loss, resulting in poor skin hydration affecting
the rigidity and firmness of skin. One of the approaches to counter the impact of environmental
pollutants is to strengthen the skin’s natural barrier and improve the hydration. A few examples of
active ingredients in this category are listed below:
A mixture of skin identical long chain and short chain ceramides, particularly with skin identical
stereochemistry along with vegetable based cholesterol and behenic can create a multilamellar system
resembling the structure of lipid barrier in the stratum corneum. It can revitalize damaged skin by
optimizing the total epidermal water management system i.e., repairs skin’s own protection barrier,
activates skin’s natural water moisturizing system (sphingolipids, filaggrin), and is ideally suited for
use in anti-pollution products [32].
Selaginella Lepidophylla (Rose of Jericho or the Desert Rose) contains complex enzymes and
stress response elements that work synergistically to prevent significant damage during long period
of desiccation and work to promote repair during rehydration and hence the plant is also known as
“Resurrection Plant”. The extract of this plant containing highly adaptive Moisture Retention Complex
with film forming properties improves skin barrier function, offering intense moisturizing benefits and
reducing trans epidermal water loss from compromised skin. In addition, it also inhibits accumulation
of PM on skin, provides antioxidant benefits, and enhances cellular proliferation [33].
The extract of Tremella Fuciformis containing polysaccharide has an intense moisturizing and
light film forming properties. It protects skin from pollution by forming a soft hydrating film and
provides superior moisturizing effect, and is found to be more effective than hyaluronic acid [34].
The extract of Leontopodium alpinum “Helvetia” Edelweiss, contains active compound
Leontopodic acid which strengthens the epidermal barrier and reduces skin sensitivity. It stimulates
several key genes and proteins responsible for epidermal protection, including transglutaminase 1,
involucrin, loricrin, and keratins. It stimulates key proteins that are responsible for providing protection
and moisturization of the skin, and significantly improves skin barrier integrity and stratum corneum
cohesion, leading to skin that is better protected and more resistant environmental aggressors [35].
The extract of Chondrus Crispus (Red Algae), develops shield like film to protect skin from
environmental stresses due to the high level of carrageenan that is found in this alga, and is also known
as a “Second Skin”. It acts as an instant film former due to high level of polysaccharide providing on
the spot hydration along with a very smooth texture. It protects skin against dryness and irritation
caused by pollution by replenishing and maintaining skin’s natural moisturizing factor and helps
reduce Trans Epidermal Water Loss [36].
A few examples of products that use this approach for delivering anti-pollution benefits are
Paula’s Choice Resist Omega Plus with Omega Fatty Acids, Bioelements Remineralist Daily Moisture
with Red Algae extract, and Sea Salt Minerals, Jurlique Rose Moisture Plus Moisturizing Cream
Mask with Rose Hip Oil, Clarins Hydra Essential range of products with Kalanchoe Pinnata extract,
and Decelor Hydra Floral Anti-Pollution Hydrating range with Moringa Oleifera extract.
6.3. Use of Anti-Oxidants
PM and other environment pollutants can induce oxidative stress and produce ROS, which can
damage cell proteins, DNA, and cell membranes. This can lead to tissue damage, which results
in wrinkles, fine lines, dehydration, and loss of youthful volume. The use of actives containing

Cosmetics 2017,4, 57 8 of 16
antioxidants and metal chelating agents in formulation can counter this effect and few actives which
deliver anti-pollution benefits by this mechanism is given below:
Salvia Hispanica (chia) seed extract contains high levels of phyto-nutrients, including phytosterols,
flavonoids, Alpha Lipolytic Acid, Coumaric Acid, Caffeic Acid, and tocopherols, which give it
a strong antioxidant capacity, which, in turn, protects the skin from ROS to speed up the skin’s
repair systems and prevent further damage. Chia oil also significantly increases skin hydration,
reduces trans-epidermal loss of water, and improves skin barrier function to minimize fine lines and
wrinkles [37].
A plant extract that is derived from Camellia Sinensis, White Tea, is reported to be rich in
antioxidant flavonoids, which neutralizes up to 80% of free radicals, protecting cell membranes and
helping the skin to defend itself from pollution and other environmental aggressions [38].
Myrtle leaf extract is rich in hydro soluble flavonoids and tannins, resulting in a very potent
anti-oxidant and skin protecting properties. Myrtle extract promotes a well oxygenated, stress free
complexion capable of neutralizing the effects of pollutants, and free radical damage [39].
The Pink Pepper Solution derived from tree Schinus Molle, (The Tree of Life) is rich in highly
active flavanols and phyto antioxidants, quercitrin, and miquelianin. It provides cellular protection
against oxidative stresses that is induced by the fine suspended dust particles by controlling antioxidant
enzyme activity. It is also shown to be associated with a modulation of epigenetic biomarkers that are
linked to a stronger skin barrier and reduces skin permeability that is induced by environmental stress
and increased skin hydration [40].
Nature is a constant inspiration for cosmetics ingredients, but plants are not the only sources of
natural actives. An innovative active mineral extract rich in trace elements and copper is extracted
from malachite using special technology to obtain a unique bioavailable stone active. A copper-rich
pollution magnet and heavy metal scavenger, this extract stimulates the natural antioxidant pool, helps
support skin’s natural cellular damage protection system, and boosts cellular defenses, thus offering
protection against environmental oxidative stresses [41].
A few examples of products which use this approach for delivering anti-pollution benefits are
CelleCle Celle Surge Intensif serum with Thermus Thermophillus, Wei Beauty Golden Root Multiaction
Anti-pollution mist with antiozonate complex, Eminence cleansing oil, Oxygenating Fizofoliant and
Detoxifying Overnight treatment with Swiss Cress Sprout extract, stone oil and lotus extract, Yon-Ka’s
Vital Defence Daily Skin Cream with Organic Myrtle, Coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and Moringa Peptide,
and Guinot’s Biooxygene Face Serum containing Pro-oxygen.
6.4. Prevent Degradation of Collagen/Elastin and Improve Skin Firming
Pollution is also known to degrade the structural proteins like collagen and elastin, and as a result,
the skin firmness and elasticity is adversely affected resulting in extrinsic signs of aging. Actives,
which can counter the degradation of collagen and elastin, can improve the efficacy of anti-pollution
products and a few examples of actives that deliver anti-pollution benefit by this mechanism is
given below:
An extract of microalgae Nannochloropsis Occulata, rich in vitamin C, vitamin B12, and
polysaccharide-Pullulan, supports the repair and maintenance of the extracellular membrane for
a superior skin firming effect. It forms a thin film on the skin, exerting an instant perceptible tightening
effect. It also helps to stimulate the formation of collagen I, which is an essential part of the skin’s
connective tissue, and as a result, actively tightens and firms skin in the long term [42].
Paeonia Albiflora root extract, rich in oligosaccharide fights the premature aging by regulating
cellular communication. It provides gradual replumping, volumizing and firming by controlling
communication and limiting negative pro-inflammatory exchanges between the dermis and
hypodermis, and increasing the thickness and volume of the adipose tissue [43].
An extract of Undaria Pinnatifida—a kelp Japanese Sea Algae, contains an active ingredient
that is called sulfated polyfucose, which protects cell wall integrity and stability against damaging

Cosmetics 2017,4, 57 9 of 16
environmental factors. It maintains skin firmness, elasticity, and smoothness, supports skin
regeneration, and defends against environmental stress. The extract also contains antioxidants,
vitamins, protein, and is also rich in vital minerals, like calcium, iron, potassium, and sodium.
It is also a rich source of eicosapentaenoic acid, an omega-3 fatty acid, and of polysaccharides.
It offers several other anti-pollution benefits to protect skin against environment pollutants by different
mechanisms [44].
White Tea extract, according to Professor Declan Naughton at Kingston University, protects
the structural protein of the skin. The study showed that white tea extract reduced the activities
of the enzymes, which breakdown elastin and collagen and improve skin’s natural elasticity and
strength [45].
An extract of Astragalus Membranaceus Root, Atractylodes Macrocephala Root, and Bupleurum
Falcatum Root is shown to target particularly the newly discovered Yin-Yang-1 protein to adjust the
epidermis maturation and restore the epidermis integrity, stimulate collagen synthesis, and counteract
the melanogenesis and the oxidative stress from UV radiations and pollution [46].
A few examples of products that use this approach for delivering anti-pollution benefits are
CelleCle 3D Strata Sculpt Remodeling Serum with Peony Root Oligosaccharide, Ren V-Cense Youth
Vitality Day Cream with SAP proteins from Orange Stem Cells, Frankincense and Boswellic Acid,
Erno Leszlo Firmarine Hydrogel Mask with Argania Spinosa Kernel oil, Wei Dan Gui Deeply
Nourishing Sheet Mask with Astragalus extract and Arcona Desert Mist with Mucin, Glutathione, and
Marjoram extract.
6.5. Control Pigmentation, Skin Lightening Reduce Dark Spots
Pollution affects the melanin synthesis pathways and can result in dark spots, overall skin
darkening, and uneven skin tone and increase extrinsic signs of aging. Actives that regulate melanin
synthesis pathways can counter the impact of various environment pollutants and a few examples of
active that act by this mechanism of action are given below:
An extract of Lepidium Sativum (Swiss Garden Cress) Sprout contains sulforaphane, a powerful
antioxidant phytonutrient. It effectively inhibits pigmentation by targeting two key upstream
reaction steps in the melanin cascade. It neutralizes ROS and inhibits
α
-MSH, a natural hormone,
which stimulates skin pigmentation. It provides exceptional brightening benefits, fades the appearance
of dark spots and discolorations, evens skin tone and is particularly found to be effective on Asian
skin type [47].
Nature identical resveratrol decreases melanin synthesis through different pathways, e.g.,
it inhibits Tyrosinase, regulates MCR1 (
α
-MSH receptor), affects the function and maturation of
melanosomes, attenuates melanosome transport within melanocytes, as well as the melanosome
transport to keratinocytes. It has excellent skin lightening properties, gives radiant and youthful
looking skin, and visibly brightens skin [48].
An aqueous complex containing extracts from Swiss Alpine plants—Malva Sylvestris (Mallow),
Alchemilla Vulgaris, Melissa Officinalis, Mentha Piperita (Peppermint), Veronica Officinalis, Achillea
Millefolium and Primula Veris contains Flavonoids, Phenolic Acids, Polysaccharides, and Iridoids.
It shows tyrosinase inhibiting activity and reduces the color intensity of dark spots, provides skin
lightening, and evens skin tone [49].
An extract of 10 Chinese whitening herbs—Panax Notoginseng root, Gastrodia Elata root,
Poria Cocos, Glycyrrhiza Uralensis root, Panax Ginseng root, Carthahus Tinctorius Flower, Salvia
Miltiorrhiza root, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root, Scutellaria Baicalensis root, and Lycium Chinese Fruit
is found to inhibit melanin synthesis, maturation, transport, operation, and degradation to achieve
healthy whitening [50].
A marine exopolysaccharide isomerate containing two amino acids, serine, and alanine can fix the
melanocyte receptor and prevent formation of the pigmentary synapse. It has been clinically proven

Cosmetics 2017,4, 57 10 of 16
in both,
in vitro
and
in vivo
tests to reduce pollution induced melanin synthesis, significantly reduce
dark spots, and improve skin tone with uniform pigmentation [51].
A few examples of products which deliver anti-pollution benefits by this mechanism of action are
SkinCeuticals Phloretin CF with Phloretin and Ferulic Acid, Anne Semonin Brightening Serum with
Sea Flower and Brown Algae extract and Dr Dennis Gross Dark Spot Sun Defense Broad Spectrum
SPF 50 Sunscreen with Melatonin Defense complex.
6.6. Reduce Inflammation
PM induces secretion of pro-inflammatory cytokines, such as TNF-
α
, IL-1
α
, and IL-8, which
leads to the increased skin inflammation, redness, and skin aging. Therefore, the incorporation of
anti-inflammatory actives in formulations can be very useful in alleviating some of the adverse impact
of environment pollutants. A few examples of actives that act by this mechanism is given below.
An extract of Paeonia Lactiflora (White Peony) roots is known in Traditional Chinese Medicine
for its healing properties and it also calms nervous irritability. This extract provides protection against
pollution and urban stressful environment. It also acts on the uniformity of skin color by correcting
excessive redness and reducing ageing spots [52].
E/Z2benzylidene5,6dimethoxy3,3dimethylindan1one (BDDI), temporarily binds to the AhR to
block it for PAH. BDDI significantly reduces the Proopiomelanocortin (POMC) gene expression that
is induced by Diesel Exhaust Particle (DEP). POMC released from keratinocytes triggers melanin
biosynthesis and is responsible for the formation of dark spots. BDDI also significantly reduces the
DEP-induced expression of inflammation gene markers, such as Interleukin-6 (IL-6), which is linked to
an inflammatory response of the skin (inflammaging) [53].
Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract is used as an anti-irritant, and it improves skin texture.
It enhances the texture and smoothness of stressed skin, smoothing wrinkles, and complexion regularity.
Ginger
´
s activity is mainly based on its action on the arachidonic acid pathway, resulting in several
actions, such as anti-inflammatory, analgesic, antipyretic, and it is known to fight redness and irritation
and provide soothing effect [54].
An extract of Rubus Idaeus (American red raspberry) is found to exhibit anti-inflammatory activity,
mainly due to the presence of high levels of flavonoids and anthocyanins. In addition, it provides
antioxidant power due to the presence of natural phenolic components, and induces genes responsible
for DNA protection and repair [55].
An extract of Asteriscus graveolens, Arabian Desert Daisy has been found to protect skin cells
from oxidative stress, shielding it against damage from pollution. It protects cells from air pollution
induced cell death by reducing the expression of cell death related genes and stimulating expression
of phase I enzymes, such as cytochrome p450, thereby increasing cell survival. It reduces signs of
premature aging and protects cells from inflammatory response [56].
A few examples of products which use this approach for delivering anti-pollution benefits are
Koh Gen Do Oriental Plant lotion I with Tremella Frucformis, Erno Leszlo Sensitive Hydrogel Mask
with Honey Suckle extract, Dermalogica Ultracalming Cleanser with Lavender, Echinacea, Raspberry
and Cucumber extract and Skin Medica Sensitive cleanser with Chamomila Recutita Flower, Cucumis
Sativus, and Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract.
6.7. Use of Multifunctional Actives or Combination of Different Actives
Pollution damages skin in many ways and to alleviate impact of pollution a combination different
active ingredient may be necessary. Several active ingredient developers market a mixture of actives
which counter the impact of pollution by different mechanisms and there are many actives which
provide multiple benefits by acting in different ways. A few examples of such multifunctional actives
or blend of actives is given below:
Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract from “tree of miracles “or “never-die tree” shields the skin
from pollution in many ways. The peptide rich extract possesses highly protective and purifying

Cosmetics 2017,4, 57 11 of 16
properties. Its antimicrobial action eliminates the asphyxiating microparticles that are produced by the
environment, so the skin is purified and can benefit from optimum oxygenation. It protects DNA from
the damaging effects of pollutants and heavy metals. The extract also increases collagen synthesis,
improves cellular viability, and offers skin conditioning and nourishing benefits, resulting in enhanced
skin complexion and healthy glow [57,58].
Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil (Maracuja) is shown to repair skin tissue at three levels by stimulating
the key markers of cell proliferation, cell migration and the Dermis Epidermis Junction. It also
regenerates, restructures, and remodels the skin by stimulating the synthesis of elastin and collagen
and boosts the contractile force of fibroblasts. It repairs, regenerates, and soothes skin that is weakened
and damaged by the actions of different environmental stressors [59].
Passiflora Edulis Fruit Extract which is rich in polyphenols harnesses the hormesis pathway by
activating the natural self-defense systems and preventing the deleterious effects of In and Outdoor
pollutants by free radical scavenging. It detoxifies and protects skin from the strong stresses of
environment pollutants and restores and prevents the degradation of the essential components of
the skin barrier and extracellular matrix preserving the barrier function, structure, and mechanical
properties of the skin and the aging process is slowed down [60].
The extract of Marrubium vulgaree (Horehound) is shown to protect skin cells from the
penetration of pollutants while fighting free radicals. It has also been shown to support the removal of
toxic oxidant species and fight oxidative stress, while protecting, strengthening, and repairing skin
and reducing inflammation [61].
Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract is a concentrated form of Fucoidans (sulfated polysaccharides)
of high molecular weight mainly made up of fucose and it also contains xylose and glucuronic
acid. Cytoplasmic transcription factor, AhR is activated in the presence of pollutants and it
regulates numerous cell functions, such as inflammation, cause changes to the barrier function and
melanogenesis. The extract inhibits the AhR pathway and impacts Dermo-epidermal restructuring,
controls the appearance of dark spots and reduces formation of redness [62].
An extract of Camellia Japonica Flower (Red Snow or Rose of Winter) has anti-oxidant effect,
anti-irritation and collagen boosting efficacy, increases skin hydration, and shows anti-wrinkle
efficacy [63].
A mixture of Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract, Trehalose, Galactoarabinan, Glycerin, Xylitol, Sodium
Phosphate, and Sorbitol is reported to provide defense against harmful polluting agents. It reduces
permeation of polluting agents by 65%, protects the DNA of cells inhibiting premature aging, inhibits
hyperpigmentation, and provides anti-inflammatory properties by reducing Interleukin-6 by 37% [
23
].
A few examples of products that use this approach for delivering anti-pollution benefits are
Bioelements Remineralist Daily Moisture with Sea Salt Minerals, Red Algae, and Malachite extract,
Laniege All Day anti-pollution Defensor Serum with extract of Saururus Chinensis, green tea and
ginger oil, Clarins UV plus Anti-Pollution SPF 50 Broad Spectrum Sunscreen with White Tea extract,
Cantaloupe Melon and Blackcurrant extract and Sisley Phyto-Blanc Brightening Daily Defense Fluid
with Stabilized vitamin C, Hexyl Resorcinol, Modified Rhubarb extract, Buckwheat seed extract,
Ascorbic Acid 2-glucoside, Provitamin B5, and Phyto squalene.
7. Summary
The task of designing effective anti-pollution products is very challenging due to complex nature
of the various environment pollutants, different damages that these pollutants cause on skin, and
a wide range of actives with different mechanism of action that is available to choose from. The
various aspects of pollution that is discussed in the previous sections viz. nature and impact of various
environmental pollutants on skin, their mechanism of action, various actives available to alleviate
the effect of pollutants, and a few examples of product offering different benefits can be used for
developing an overall approach and selection of actives for designing new products. The broad

Cosmetics 2017,4, 57 12 of 16
formulation development approach and guidelines for selection of actives depending on the type of
skin damage is summarized in Table 1.
Table 1. Guidelines for formulating anti-pollution products.
Sr No. Visible Skin Damage Formulation Approach Active Options
1 Dull and oily skin
Deep Cleansing
Exfoliation
External polymer barrier
Dust repellent polymer
Mild surfactant
Activated charcoal
Coffee beans and rice bran scrub
Biosaccharide gum
2 Dry and damaged skin Restore natural lipid bilayer
Strengthen skin’s natural barrier
Long and short chain ceramides
Cholesterol and behenic acid
Extract of Edelweiss
Extract of Red Algae
3 Dehydrated rough skin
Improve skin hydration
Reduce TEWL
Replenish NMF in skin
Extract of Desert Rose
Extract of Tremella Fuciformis
4Wrinkles and fine lines
Loss of youthful volume
Control formation of ROS
Use metal chelating agents
Replenish antioxidant reserve
Chia seed oil
Pink Pepper extract
Extract of Malachite
White Tea extract
5
Uneven skin tone
Skin darkening
Formation of lentigines
Control Melanin synthesis
Inhibit Tyrosinase
Regulate melanosome transfer
Nature identical Reservatrol
Extract of Swiss Garden Cress
Marine exopolysaccharide isomerate
Extract of Chinese whitening herbs
6Loss of skin firmness
Loss of elasticity
Promote collagen/
elastin synthesis
Prevent degradation of proteins
Extract f Nannochloropsis Occulata
Paeonia Albiflora root extract
White Tea extract
Extract of Japanese Sea algae
7
Skin redness and
sensitivity
Inflammation and acne
Autoinflammatory actives
Use of skin soothing agent
Extract of White Peony
Ginger root extract
Extract of American Red Raspberry
Extract of Arabian Desert Daisy
In addition to delivering targeted benefits it is very important to deliver the right sensory
properties to create the first impression immediately on product use. By understanding drivers
behind emulsion aesthetics, it is possible to engineer a complete sensory experience that supports
overall product positioning and claims. The other important aspects to be kept in mind while
formulating product is claims, consumer, and clinical testing in support of the claims and applicable
regulatory guidelines.
The issues that are associated with pollution damage are numerous and varied, ranging from
dryness, dark spots, fine lines and wrinkles, dullness and uneven skin tone, loss of firmness,
inflammation, and aggravation of acne, and there is no agreement on which pollution bio-markers are
best to assess the efficacy of anti-pollution products. There is no international guideline on standardized
anti-pollution tests and different types of studies are currently available and used by companies to
demonstrate claims [
64
]. Many brands rely on supplier data [
65
], and some of the brands even use
consumer test data to support their claims. However, as awareness and understanding about pollution
is increasing,
in vitro
and
in vivo
clinical test data would be useful to differentiate product in a highly
competitive and crowded market space with many new products launches every year, and to establish
competitive edge in a credible and convincing manner.

Cosmetics 2017,4, 57 13 of 16
8. Future Opportunities
The understanding about various environmental pollutant and their mechanism of action is
continuously evolving, and ingredient developers are introducing many new actives every year.
The growing palate of actives is offering wider choices to the formulators to allow for them to create
more efficacious products and the anti-pollution market is likely to grow significantly for many years
to come. The new methods of
in vitro
and
in vivo
testing will also result in brands making stronger
claims, increasing consumer awareness, and generating more demand pull.
One of the growing trends in skin care is the use of multifunctional products as consumer are
seeking to simplify their skin care regime. Anti-pollution products can tap into well-established global
consumer demand for anti-aging, skin lightening, and sun care products. Some of the product formats
like facial mist, wipes, exfoliating products, and compacts and loose powders can be very useful
formats for delivering anti-pollution benefits. Anti-pollution benefits are now expanding beyond skin
care ranging into hair care, eye care, and color cosmetics, as well [66].
Interestingly, consumer research shows that awareness about pollution, concern regarding the
adverse impact of pollution skin and the intentions to try anti-pollution products is very similar among
men and women and this points towards a potential opportunity for brands to develop products that
are specially designed for men [10].
Many ingredients manufacturers are being quick to develop antipollution solutions that are also
natural or organic, taking steps to pre-emptively cater to the naturals trend rather than retrospectively
create alternatives to synthetic active ingredients, as has so far been necessary for other areas of the
industry. Some of the other trends that anti-pollution products can leverage are rising consumer interest
in health and wellness products, products that combat life style stressors, aromatherapy products
for emotional wellbeing, products which are sustainably sourced and do not adversely impact the
environment, and products making “free from” claims [67].
The trend “Beauty from inside-out” is receiving a lot of traction from consumers and Beauty
Supplements, Nutraceuticals, Beauty Drinks, and Functional Foods should also be evaluated by brands
to complement their anti-pollution product portfolio [68].
Devices such as cleansing brushes, which use gentle sonic action to dislodge pollutant and
help deep cleanse and devices that can increase product penetration using Intense Pulsed Light
technique for more effective delivery of actives at the target site are the other opportunities in the
anti-pollution market.
Most brands have skin assessment and product selection tool on their site, which recommends
products ideally suited for consumer based on response to a few simple questions on condition of skin
and the environment consumers are exposed to. When new anti-pollution products are introduced in
the existing product portfolio, modification of the product selection tool to include specific questions
related to environment pollutant can lead consumers to the newly introduced products.
Some of the products that are likely to hit the market are wearable devices and patches, indicating
the exposure to type and level of pollution with smartphone recommending protection required against
pollution. Smart mirrors, which help consumers to track condition of skin and assess the change over
time on products usage, are the other opportunities in future.
Conflicts of Interest: The authors declare no conflicts of interest.
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