Conference Paper

Unboxing the look: factors promoting circular consumption behaviour in the women’s apparel industry

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Abstract

User acceptance of circular business models has been highlighted by different stakeholders as hindering the diffusion. A sector of increasing interest and high potential for the implementation of circularity is the women’s apparel industry. Different types of use-oriented product service systems (PSS) have been proposed as circular solution for the clothing sector. Research on what factors explain acceptance by consumers of such business models is limited and based on hypothetical scenarios proposed by the researchers. This paper aims at expanding the knowledge on the area by suggesting a new set of factors based on the combination of the literature on fashion oriented product service systems and second hand clothing acquisition. It used data from 108 online customer-generated reviews of three companies offering fashion subscription services, an example of use-oriented PSS for women’s apparel internationally to explore what factors were mentioned as driving customer satisfaction. Resulting from the data analysis five sets of factors are identified, product and service characteristics, money and resources, attitudes of the users, big events and lifestyles and changes in activities. This set excludes aspects such as environmental benefits and identity which have been suggested as key by the literature on fashion use-oriented PSS. The reasons to explain these discrepancies are suggested as areas for further research.

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Clothing production and consumption have significant negative environmental impacts. This thesis explores whether an interdisciplinary method triangulation that combines studies of material and behavioural aspects of clothing consumption can give a better understanding of consumers’ clothing consumption practices, and further, if this knowledge can be used to make environmental improvements in the clothing value chain. Material aspects of clothing consumption were researched through laboratory tests on laundering and clothing properties, and through a method combination called wardrobe studies. The wardrobe studies included all clothing that went out of use from 16 households during a six months period, combined with specific information on behaviour related aspects for each individual garment and its history of use. Additional behavioural aspects were studied through in-depth interviews and three consumer surveys. The topics included consumers’ environmental attitudes and habits, and experiences and opinions of different clothing consumption stages. Consumers can make environmentally preferable choices in all clothing consumption stages including acquisition, use, maintenance, and disposal, and especially through prolonging the clothing lifespans and reducing the volumes in circulation. All of these phases can potentially be influenced by the design of products such as clothing, washing machines, dryers, but also larger systems, infrastructures, policies and services around them. This thesis is based on eleven papers that address these different stages of consumption. The papers give empirical data on clothing consumption practices and suggest improvements at different levels, and indicate that different design for sustainable behaviour strategies could be used to decrease the environmental impacts, in addition to other measures. However, future studies should research whether the improvements would change actual consumer behaviour, as well as the magnitude of potential environmental savings. The clothes that went out of use in the wardrobe study had an average total life of 5.4 years, and had been with the current owner for the past four years. The main reasons for clothing disposal were changes in the garments such as wear and tear and pilling, followed by size and fit issues, taste-related unsuitability, situational reasons such as lack of space, functional shortcomings and fashion or style changes. The importance of the various disposal reasons varied between different consumer groups and therefore selecting design strategies for different user groups could be optimised based on this information, in order to achieve higher environmental advantages. This study found several benefits of combining various methodological approaches for studying the different aspects of clothing consumption. This was particularly important when studying topics where there are potential differences between what people think, say, and do. This interdisciplinary study contributes within several research fields including clothing, textiles, consumption, environmental and design research. It has given a lot less attention to the role of fashion as driver for clothing consumption than most previous research. Therefore, one contribution to clothing and fashion research is a reminder to take the materiality into account as well as looking into what consumers actually do and whether the concrete clothing items reflect these practices. It also shows how concentrating on the less studied consumption phases can give new information about the other phases. The combination of various qualitative and quantitative methods proved to be suitable for giving rich data that can be used to drive design research forward. Until now there has been little research on design for sustainable behaviour within clothing design. One of the contributions of this study has therefore been in increasing the knowledge about consumer behaviour and related this to clothing design. Consumer and design research have been rather separated fields despite the fact that both research fields focus on many of the same themes. This study has therefore contributed in adapting a more holistic user-centred design perspective to clothing consumption research. Even though the focus of this thesis is on the potential that consumers and designers have for reducing environmental impacts, it does not mean that only these two groups should be responsible for implementing such improvements. In the work towards a more sustainable society, authorities and different actors in the value chain also have important roles to play. Implications for various stakeholders are presented, and a special focus should be placed on the role of policy makers. For ensuring a more environmentally sustainable future, additional regulatory instruments and economic incentives should be taken in use and enforced, in addition to voluntary incentives such as information provision, which is discussed here as a change in systems design level. Changes must come in the form of better products and better systems. The thesis points to the importance of changing the focus of clothing design and production from increased sales and volume to aiming at an improved use phase. Thesis is available at: http://www.sifo.no/files/file79873_laitala_phd_83.pdf
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In the last decade many researchers, institutes and programs in the EU paid attention to product-service systems (PSS). Given this massive effort, it is time to take stock. Is PSS research a theoretical field in its own right? Is the PSS concept indeed the road to the Factor 10 world? Is it the road to enhanced competitiveness? What is needed to really use the potential of the concept? This paper discusses these questions summarizing the analysis done in the PSS review book ‘New Business for Old Europe’, various EU sponsored projects and the conceptual approach chosen in a new research network on Sustainable Consumption and Production, called SCORE!
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Function-oriented business models or product–service systems (PSSs) are often seen as an excellent means for achieving ‘factor 4’. SusProNet, an EU network on PSSs, showed a more complicated reality. At least eight different types of PSS exist, with quite diverging economic and environmental characteristics. The economic potential of each type was evaluated in terms of (i) tangible and intangible value for the user, (ii) tangible costs and risk premium for the provider, (iii) capital/investment needs and (iv) issues such as the providers' position in the value chain and client relations. The environmental potential was evaluated by checking the relevance of certain impact reduction mechanisms (e.g. more intensive use of capital goods, inherent incentives for sustainable user and provider behaviour etc.). Most PSS types will result in marginal environmental improvements at best. The exception is the PSS type known as functional results, but here liability and risk premium issues, amongst others, need a solution. Copyright © 2004 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd and ERP Environment.
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Despite all efforts, many product development projects fail and lead to the introduction of products that do not meet customers' expectations. A high level of customer satisfaction cannot be obtained. On the other hand, in many product development projects the process of product development is conducted very unsystematically and resources are wasted because of a lack of communication between the different functions involved in product development. Time especially is a critical factor within product development as time to market is becoming increasingly more important.Managers need a set of practical step-by-step tools and methods which ensure a better understanding of customers' needs and requirements, as well as procedures and processes to enhance communication by focusing on the voice of the customer within a product development project.The authors propose a methodology, based on Kano's model of customer satisfaction, to explore customers' stated needs and unstated desires and to resolve them into different categories which have different impacts on customer satisfaction. It is shown how this categorization can be used as a basis for product development, especially for quality function deployment. The paper begins with a brief discussion of the strategic importance of customer satisfaction, then Kano's model and its combination with quality function deployment is demonstrated, using a case study from the ski industry. The paper closes with a brief discussion of the managerial implications and the consequences of the application of these tools.
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