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Available online atwww.ordonearresearchlibrary.org ISSN 2229-5054
INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF DRUG FORMULATION AND RESEARCH
GENERAL REVIEW ON HERBAL COSMETICS
A. Fathima, Sujith Varma*, P. Jagannath, M. Akash
National College of Pharmacy, Manassey, Kozhikode, Kerala State, India.
Received: 11 Aug. 2011; Revised: 5 Sep. 2011; Accepted: 26 Oct. 2011; Available online: 5 Nov. 2011
INTRODUCTION
The word cosmetic was derived from the Greek word “kosm tikos” meaning having the power, arrange,
skill in decorating [1]. The origin of cosmetics forms a continuous narrative throughout the history of man as
they developed. The man in prehistoric times 3000BC used colours for decoration to attract the animals that he
wished to hunt and also the man survived attack from the enemy by colouring his skin and adorned his body for
protection to provoke fear in an enemy (whether man or animal). The origin of cosmetics were associated with
hunting, fighting, religion and superstition and later associated with medicine [2]. The knowledge finally
dissociated from medicine and finally to pharmacy. The man from ancient time had the magic tip towards
impressing others with their looks ; at the time there were no fairness creams or any cosmetics surgeries to
modify the appearance. The skin and hair beauty of individuals depends on the health, habits, routine job,
climatic conditions and maintenance. The skin due to excessive exposure to heat will dehydrate during summer
and causes wrinkle, freckles, blemishes, pigmentation and sunburns. The extreme winter cause damages to the
skin in the form of cracks, cuts, maceration and infections. The skin diseases are common among all age groups
and can be due to exposure towards microbes, chemical agents, biological toxin present in the environment, and
Review- Article
ABSTRACT
The bioactive ingredients from botanicals include vitamins, antioxidants, various oils, essential oils, dyes, tannins,
alkaloids, carbohydrates, proteins and terpenoids etc which serve as cosmetics for care of body and its parts. The herbal
cosmetics manufactured and used commonly for daily purpose include herbal face wash, herbal conditioner, herbal soap,
herbal shampoo etc. The industry is now focusing on the growing segment with a vast scope of manifold expansion in coming
years.
Keywords: herbal drugs, excipient, extracts, medicinal plant, antioxidants
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also to some extend due to malnutrition [3]. The only factor they had to rely on was the knowledge of nature
compiled in the ayurveda. The science of ayurveda had utilized many herbs and floras to make cosmetics for
beautification and protection from external affects. The natural content in the botanicals does not cause any side
effects on the human body; instead enrich the body with nutrients and other useful minerals. The cosmetics,
according to the Drugs and Cosmetics Act is defined as articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or
sprayed on, introduced into or otherwise applied to the human body or any part there of for cleansing,
beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance. The cosmetic does not come under the preview
of drug license [3]. The herbal cosmetics are the preparations containing phytochemical from a variety of
botanical sources, which influences the functions of skin and provide nutrients necessary for the healthy skin or
hair. The natural herbs and their products when used for their aromatic value in cosmetic preparation are termed
as herbal cosmetics [3-5]. There is common belief that chemical based cosmetics are harmful to the skin and an
increased awareness among consumers for herbal products triggered the demand for natural products and
natural extracts in cosmetics preparations. The increased demand for the natural product has created new
avenues in cosmeceutical market. The Drug and Cosmetics Act specify that herbs and essential oils used in
cosmetics must not claim to penetrate beyond the surface layers of the skin nor should have any therapeutic
effect [5]. The legal requirement and the regulatory procedures for herbal cosmetics are same as that for other
chemical ingredients used in cosmetic formulations [6-8].
The use of cosmetic was time back in Pre-Christian Hellenistic period from where the historians had
mentioned the use of herbal’s in cosmetics and aromatic products. Queen Cleopatra a symbol for the last word
in cosmetics and beautification used aloe vera gel as a skin care product. The Pliny the Elder (A.D. 23-79) has
written an interesting section on perfumes and aromatic materials in his Encyclopedia “Natural History”. The
Cornelius Celsus a Roman physician (B.C. 7 - A.D. 53.) discussed about the conditions of the skin cleanser
during the 16th century. The Queen Elizabeth encouraged women to cultivate gardens and helped them in
preparation of powders, sachets and scented washes (a floral essence with other aromatic substance) [6, 9-14].
The use of ground orris as an ingredient in face powder, red ocher or vermilion as rouge was common during
the reign of Elizabeth. The extracts of sandal or Brazil wood were considered a very new and smart cosmetic.
The pimples were cured by covering for an hour with powdered sulphur and turpentine and later anointed with
fresh butter [11). The golden-red hair, reddish and yellowish hair became a fashion and was affected by soaking
the hair first in a warm solution of alum and then added to a decoction of rhubarb, turmeric and bark of
burberry. A large number of cosmetic formulations have been developed based on herbs and herbal oils. Indian
women have long used herbs such as sandal wood and turmeric for skin care and henna to colour the hair. In
India the materials used in cosmetics have come from the earliest period of medical and cosmetic art in India.
The materials like aloes, costus, frankincense, lac, myrrh, camphor, musk, saffron, use of rose water as attar and
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sandal wood were common in early period [15]. The herbal ingredients used as perfumes are cassia and nutmeg.
The saffron, alkanet, agar, chlorophyll green from nettle plants and indigo were used in body decorations [16].
The use of betel leaves for darkening the lips, vermilion and other colours with waxes for their facial
designation of caste, almond paste for the entire body instead of soap and use of perfumes and aromatics in all
religious and social occasions are very common from ancient times [17-18]. Most of the traditional systems of
medicine in the world have made significant contributions for the development of herbal cosmetics. The
cracked lips which spoil the beauty of the face can be healed by applying paste made from the rind of Aegle
Marmelos in breast milk. The skin fairness can be attained by preparing a paste with Sessamum Indicum,
Pongamia Pinnata, Berberis Aristata, Saussura Lappa. The dandruff was removed by applying Papaver
Somniferum in milk [19]. The face pack consisting of Lens Culinaris mixed with honey were used to make the
face soft [20]. The pimples were removed from face by applying plaster composed of Coriandrum Sativum,
Acorus Calamus and Saussurea Lappa [21-23]. The deodourant powder consisting of powder prepared from
Mangifera Indica, Punica Granatum and fragrant shell for removing the bad odour [24-26]. The presence of
hair on arms, legs, face and public area can be removed by applying a mixture consisting of Emblica Officinalis,
Piper Longum, Euphorbia Nivulia to the desired place and the hair will fall off from the place [19]. The juice
of Eclipta Alba, Iron Oxide, Terminalia Chebula, Terminalia Bellerica, Phyllanthus Emblica cooked in oil can
be used to darken the hair and get relief from dandruff [24-26]. To make the breast increase the bustline and
make it firm and shapely, powder mixture consisting of Withania Somnifera, Scidapsus Officinalis, Saussurea
Lappa and Acorus Calamus added to the butter made from buffalo’s milk and massage to the breast [19-27].
In ancient time the written information on ayurveda like charaka samhitha and varnya kashaya has
explained the usage of herbs in getting glowing complexion. The herbs used were chandana, nagkeshara,
padmak, khus, yashtimadhu, manjistha, sariva, payasya, seta (sweta durva) and lata (shyama durva). These
ayurvedic herbs are used to purify blood and eliminate vitiated doshas like (vata, pitta, kapha) from the body as
they are mainly responsible for skin disorders and other diseases. The herbs mentioned in khushthagna
mahakashaya effective in skin disorders, include khadira, abhaya, amalaki, haridra, bhallataka, saptaparna,
karavira, vidanga and jati. Some of the natural products used in ancient times include, the use of indigo and
raktachandan as bindi/tika, madder root for beautifying lips and cheeks, shoeflower to blacken and maintiain
hair colour, aloe as skin protectant, chandan, vetiver and haldi as face packs. The use of ayurvedic herbs adds
cosmetic value to the products. The ayurveda is well known for the permanent cure for ailments and it is likely
evident from the present market trends that the herbal cosmetic product will succeed in capturing the market.
The knowledge about the structure and basic function of the skin and its appendages and knowledge of natural
or herbal care or remedies for its problems will help to widen the importance of herbal cosmetics. The skin has
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the natural ability in continuously repairing to maintain its normal function. In young age the common skin
problem are greasy skin and acne and during old age the skin becomes dry. To have a better skin, it is important
to understand how our skin functions and to take proper precautions to maintain it. The skin are classified into 4
groups and for each class appropriate ingredients should be used to maintain its natural functionality (Table - 1)
[28-29].
The requirements for the basic skin care
a) Cleansing agent, which remove the dust, dead cells and dirt that chokes the pores on the skin. Some of the
common cleansers include vegetable oils like coconut, sesame and palm oil.
b) Use of Toners: The toners help to tighten the skin and keep it from being exposed to many of the toxins
that are floating in the air or other environmental pollutants. Some of the herbs used as toners are witch
hazel, geranium, sage, lemon, ivy burdock and essential oils.
c) Moisturizing: The moisturizing helps the skin to become soft and supple. Moisturizing shows a healthy
glow and are less prone to aging. Some of the herbal moisturizers include vegetable glycerin, sorbitol, rose
water, jojoba oil, aloe vera and iris.
The herbal remedies used for special skin problems are given in (Table - 2) [30-36].
Formulation and evaluation:-
In formulating cosmetic preparation non herbal ingredients are commonly used, but now herbal
ingredients are gaining more acceptances among consumers. The usage of herbal ingredients should be based on
experience, so that the properties of the formulation are not altered. The formulation of herbal cosmetics follows
the same procedures as that of the cosmetic preparation prepared with synthetic origin. The formulations are
based on the selection of proper emulsifying agents, composition of the appropriate ingredients and modified
methodology to get the required product [37-40). The herbal cosmetics retain the bioactivity of botanicals
during excessive processing and should ascertain their availability after application on the skin. The
manufacturers should ensure the quality of the raw materials and the finished products by quality control
testing. The other parameters tested include organoleptic characteristics, pH, viscosity, refrigeration and
stability towards light. The major drawback with herbal ingredient is the attack of microbes rendering them
unfit for human use [41-43]. So care must be taken to prevent the bacterial attack completely. The list of various
categories of ingredients used in cosmetics with its herbal and nonherbal counter part is listed in (Table-3).
The evaluation of herbal cosmetics is very essential and there is no hard and fast code of practice, which
can be laid down for all products or even product types. The evaluations of cosmetics are performed to ensure
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the efficiency, storage, processing operation and stability requirements. The evaluation of herbal cosmetics is
essentially the same as that for the other common cosmetics products which are available in market. The
ingredients used in cosmetics should be of the highest quality so as to minimize the irritancy and sensitivity
reaction. The physical evaluation parameters used for herbal cosmetics include the colour, odour, form of
physical state, pH, and net content. The other evaluations done for herbal cosmetics are sensitivity test, irritation
test and grittiness. The irritancy and sensitivity test can be performed by either diagnostic testing or by the
prophetic or predictive testing [44-51].
The diagnostic testing is usually determined by different patch tests, where one can establish the cause
of dermatitis produced by cosmetics. In prophetic or predictive testing, which involves the testing for primary
irritants, testing for eye irritation (eg: rabbit eye test), testing for animal skin irritation and testing on humans for
irritancy. The test will help to detect the irritant and sensitizing potential of new cosmetic ingredients. The
evaluations of facial cosmetics are grouped into physical parameters, esthetic and pressure testing. The physical
parameters include colour, adhesiveness, pH, net content, odour, size and shape of the particle and finally the
moisture content. In esthetic the parameters evaluated are shape control, dispersion of colour, bloom testing,
adhesiveness, spreadability, covering power and finally handling test. The pressure testing is evaluated only for
compacts to check the presence of air pockets. The dentifrices are evaluated for abrasiveness, degree of luster
production, consistency, pH, specific gravity, taste, odour, colour, moisture content and fragrance test. The hair
conditioners are evaluated for softness, luster, lubricity, body texture and set retention, irritation on eye, oral
toxicity, fragrance test, colour and consistency. The cosmetics in the form of semisolid products are tested for
bleeding and rheology in addition to the other routine tests. The microbial test, toxicity test and stability studies
were also performed for evaluating the cosmetics products. The traditional documented applications of herbs in
cosmetics are available along with some modern trials which have established the utility of these materials in
cosmetic preparation. Some of the herbs and essential oil used in cosmetics are listed in (Table - 4, 5, 6, 7, 8).
The evaluations based on analytical methods are used to support the commercial development and application
of new ingredients to ensure that specifications are met to confirm the quality of manufactured products and to
satisfy that the process are operating correctly. The analytical methods are regularly employed by enforcement
and regulatory authorities to ensure that the products confirm to legal standards and are safe and accurately
described. The analytical chemist continues to have a major role in selecting the most appropriate method,
managing the data, interpreting the results. The analytical techniques are basically classified into classical
method and instrumental method. The classical methods are based on the observation and measurement of the
chemical reactivity of analytes in solution. The instrumental methods are based upon the detailed examination
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of the physical or physicochemical properties of analytes related to their molecular or atomic structures. The
methods will provide information of the qualitative data regarding the chemical nature of compound and
detection of specific compounds in the cosmetic products. The skin evaluation can be performed visually or by
super facial sampling of the skin with image analysis of the cells. The free radical scavenger properties in
cosmetics which can counteract the effect of pollution and UV light on skin can be evaluated by fluoroscan II
system to determine the concentration of the cutaneous peroxides. The free radical scavenging properties can
also be evaluated by inhibition of UVB induced skin erythema by skin reflectance spectrophotometry [51-52].
The skin tanning agents used for producing a healthy skin without risking the acute and chronic ill effects of
prolonged UV exposure can be evaluated by inspection or instrumentally using Minolta Chromameter or Dia-
stron Erythema/Melanin Meter [49]. The evaluation of hair care products is done by assessing nine basic
cosmetic parameters related to physical or mechanical properties of the hair. The parameters include comb-out
on wet hair, comb-out on dry hair, shine, silkiness, absence of static electricity, individualization, bounce,
spring back and body. The hair greasiness evaluation can be quantitatively analyzed by means of sensory
assessment. The parameters like gloss and individualization are measured by instrumental method utilizing light
reflection [53-54]. The hair strength can be evaluated by measuring the force required to strech and break
individual hair fibres by Instron Tester, Dia-stron Miniature Tensile Tester and Automatic Carousel
arrangement. The hair fiber cross-sectional area which contributes the tensile strength can be measure by
microscopy or by weighing standard lengths of hair fiber. The instrumental method for analyzing the cross-
sectional area can be done by Dia-strom Fiber Dimensional Analysis System. The instrumental method of
analysis of hair properties and their affect by hair-care products include curl retention, friction, resin
adhesiveness and drying properties. The antidandruff evaluations are generally carried out during autumn and
early spring. The heaviest load of dandruff is seen in the month of winter. The stability testing of cosmetic
products during storage is done on the content of the formulated product and container in which the product is
packed. The content can be subdivided to physical character like viscosity, texture, colour, odour, pH, and loss
of volatile constituent, uptake of water, oxygen or carbon dioxide. The chemical characteristic can be further
divided into degradation of active constituent, interaction between constituents and loss of constituent by
sorption by container. In microbiological characteristics are divided into efficacy of antimicrobial preservative
and microbial spoilage. The containers used for packing cosmetics are tested for leakage, corrosion and stress
cracking. The mechanical properties of the skin include measurement of skin friction to evaluate the degree of
smoothness or greasiness of the skin. The measurement of skin elasticity is to evaluate the suppleness or
fairness of the skin and the point of indentation are used to measure the skin softness. The evaluations of
antidandruff mainly focus on the antimicrobial activity, solubility in sebum, penetrability of the hair follicles
and cytostatic effect [55].
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References:-
1. Hughes, G.R., J.Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 1959, X, 159.
2. Encyclopaedia. Britannica, 14th Edn; 1929.
3. Kapoor.V.P., Herbal Cosmetics for Skin and Hair Care, Natural Product Radiance, p 306-314.
4. Harry R.G, In: Modern Cosmeticology, Vol 1(Revision Eds), Wilkinson J.B., Clark.R., Green E.,
Mclaughlin T.P., 1962, Leonard Hill (Books) Ltd, London.
5. Sankholkar.D.S, Current Regulations and Suggested Way Forward, The Pharma Times, Vol.41, No.8,
2009, p 30-31.
6. Wall.F.E., Balsam M.S., Sagarin.E., (eds), Cosmetics: Science and Technology. Jhon Wiley and Sons,
Chichester, 1974 .
7. Robert Brown. The Natural way in cosmetics and skin care. Chemical market reporter. Issue: July 13,
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11. Rimmel,E., in The Book of Perfumes, Chapman and Hall, London, 1865.
12. Corson, R., Fasions in Makeup. Peter Owen, London, 1973.
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1986, p 425-433.
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21. Nadkarni K.M., Indian plants and drugs with their medicinal properties and uses. Norton and Co.
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25. Bhagirathaswami-Ratirahasya-Koka kavi virachita (13th cen.A.D.)-Lohia S.C.195/2. Harison Road,
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33. Kumar S, Medicinal Plants in Skin Care Director, Central Institute of Medicinal and Aromatic Plants,
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34. Thakur R.S., Puri, H.S., Hussain, A, In: Major Medicinal Plants of India, 1989, CIMAP, Lucknow.
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36. Ceres A, The healing power of herbal teas. Thorsons Publishers, London, 1984.
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41. Gruening,R., Cosmet.Toil, 1998, 113, 61-68.
42. Bauman.H.E., Food Technol, 1974, 32, 31-34.
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51. Montenegro.L et al, Protective effect evaluation of free radical scavengers on UVB induced human
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Cosmet.Toil.Manuf, 1991/2, 215.
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Table-1 Skin Types and Their Care
Skin type
Features
Suitable Skin Care
Herbal
Ess
ential oils
Normal
Has even tone, soft,
smooth texture, no
visible pores or
blemishes and no greasy
patches or flaky areas.
Has a clear, fine
textured, supple and
smooth surface which is
neither greasy nor dry.
Pomegranate leaves
juice, Herbal Face Pack,
Gingili Oil
Chamomile
Fennel,
Geranium,
Lavender,
Lemon,
Rose, Sandal Wood,
Patchouli.
Dry
Low level of sebum and
prone to sensitivity. Has
a parched look, feels
“tight .Chapping and
cracking are signs of
extremely dry,
dehydrated skin.
Aloe Vera, Olive
Oil,
Calendula
Comfrey
Chamomile
Fennel,
Geranium,
Lavender,
Lemon,
Rose, Sandal Wood,
Patchouli, Almond,
Avocado
Oily
Shiny, thick and dull
coloured Chronically
Aloe Vera, Burdock
Root chamomile
Bergamot, Cypress
Frankincense
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oily skin has coarse
pores and pimples and
other embarrassing
blemishes. Prone to
black heads
Horsetail, Oat Straw,
Thyme, Lavender,
Lemon Grass, Liquorice,
Rose Buds, Witch Hazel
Cucumber, Cedar Wood
Geranium, juniper,
Lavender, Lemon,
Sage Evening
Primrose
Combination
Some parts of your face
are dry or flaky, while
the center part of your
face, nose, chin, and
forehead (called the T-
zone) is oily.
Combination skin can
also describe conditions
where wrinkles and
breakouts or rosacea and
dry skin are present at
the same time.
Witch Hazel, Menthol,
Aloe Vera, Turmeric,
Wheat Germ, Sweet Flag
Citrus Oils, Jasmine
Oil, Sandal Wood Oil
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Table .2
Special Skin Problems and Herbal Remedies
Sl.no
Skin Problem
Features
Remedies
1.
Chapped Skin
Rough texture which sometimes causes the
skin to crack
Application of oils of
St.John Wort, Olive
Oil or Mashed
Avocado after bathing
or massaging with
warm Olive Oil,
Mustard or Coconut
Oil half an hour before
bathing
2.
Withered Skin
Very tough texture, full of wrinkl
es
Carrot Juice along
with a mixture of egg
white and honey
3.
Sallow Skin
No colour look, skin becomes lusterless and
shows lack of vitality
Inclusion of Vitamin B
in diet
4.
Sensitive Skin
React quickly to both heat and cold.
Sunburns and wind burns occur easily. Skin
become dry delicate and prone to allergic
reactions.
Detergents , Cosmetics and alcohol can
cause irritation leaving skin red and blotchy
with visible surface veins
Use of essential oil of
Chamomile, Lavender,
Neroli, Rose and
Sandal Wood Oil.
5.
Acne
Pockets of infection that manifest as red
sores, boils and pimples.
Usage of Red Sandal
Wood Oil.
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Table 3
Non-herbal ingredients and additives and their herbal counterparts
Category
Non
-
herbal
Herbal
Oils, Fats
Mineral Oil, Petrolatum
A
lmond, Safflower, Sunflower
(petroleum jelly)
Oils, Cocoa Butter
Waxes
Paraffin, Ozokerite, Cersin
Bay berry and Camauba Wax
Emollients
Cetyl/stearyl alcohol
Aloe Vera, Glycerine, Calendula
Stearalkonium chloride
and Camauba Wax
Humectants
Propyl
ene/Ethylene Glycol,
Glycerine, Sorbitol
Dimethicone
Detergents,
SLS, Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Coconut and Palm Oil soap,
soaps
Cocamide DEA
Castile soap (usually Olive Oil)
Astringents
Isopropanl, Ethyl Alcohol,
Witch Hazel extract, Ethanol
Aceto
ne
(natural)
Surfactants Quartemarium - 7, PEG.
Sapindus Mukorossi
(Polyyethylene Glycols) TEA,
Sodium
lauryl Sulfate
Emulsifiers,
Polysorbates (40,60,80)
Phytosterols, Pectin, Starch, Irish
Solibilizers
Sodium Stearate, Sodium
Moss, Agar, Acaci
a, Tragacanth
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Sulphonate, Sorbitan esters,
Potassium stearate
Sequestrants
EDTA/Sodium EDTA,
Alginates
Tetra sodium Pyrophosphate
"
-
Foaming
Lauramide/cocamide DEA,
Quillaja and Yucca saponins,
Agents Trithanolamine
Soapwort
Fungistats,
M
ethyl/Propyl Paraben,
Citrus seeds/Peel Extract,
Bacteriostats Quarternarium - 15, phenol (s), Eucalyptus, Tea tree oils, Clove
Oil
Phenoxyethanol
Carvacol (Thyme, Orange Oil)
Antioxidants/
BHA, BHT, Imidazolidinyl
Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid),
Preserva
tives
Urea, Quarternary Ammoniums,
Vitamin E (Tocopherols), Green
Dizonlidinyl Urea
Tea Extract, Eugenol (clove oil),
Ginger
Colours/Dyes
FD & C and D&C colures.
Beetroot powder (red), Carmine
Also Iron Oxides, Carbon Black,
Powder (purplish red),
Paprika
Chromium Oxide Green,
Oleo
-
resin (orange red), Saffron
Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide,
(yellow
-
orange), Carotenes
Barium sulphate, Alumina
(orange), Annatto (yellow
orange), Curcumin (yellow),
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Chlorophyll
Table 4
List of Plants with cosmetic application for skin care
Scientific Name
Common
Name
Part Used
Uses
Acarus calamus
Sweet flag,
Rhizome
Aromatic, Dusting powders,
(Araceae)
Skin lotions
Alhagi camelorum
Jawasa Leaves
Skin disorders
(Leguminosae)
Allium sativum
Garlic Bulb
Promotes skin healing,
(Liliaceae)
Antibacterial
Aloe vera
Aloe vera Leaf
Moisturizer, Sun screen,
(Liliaceae)
Emollient
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Alpinia galanga
Galanga Rhizome
Aromatic, Dusting powders
(Zingiberaceae)
Avena sat
iva
Oat Fruit
Moisturizer, Skin tonic
(Gramineae)
Azadiracta indica
Neem Leaf
Antiseptic, reduce dark
(Meliaceae)
spots, Antibacterial
Bauhinia racemosa
Kanchivala
Bark and
Skin disorders
(Leguminosae)
leaves
Betula alba
Cleansing and
Purifying.
(Betulaceae)
Betula
Plant
And also harmonizes the skin
Function
Calendula ofjicinalis
Skin care, Anti
(Compositae)
Marigold
Flower
inflammatory, Antiseptic
Creams. Also act as Soothing
agen
Centella asiatica
Gotu kola,
Plant
Wound healing, Reduce
(Apiaceae)
Brahmi
Stretch marks
Cichorium intybus
Chicory Seed Clears Skin Blemishes
(Compositae)
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Citrus aurantium
Orange Peel
Anti
-
acne,
(Rutaceae)
Anti
-
bacterial
Citrus limonis
Lemon Fruit
Regulation of pH,
Antioxidant, Astringent
(Rutaceae)
effect
Clementis triloba
Laghukarni Leaves Skin Infections
(Ranunculaceae)
Crocus sativus
Saffron
Floral
Antiallergenic, Imparts
(Iridaceae)
filaments
Smoothness to skin
Cucumis sativus
Cucumber Fruit
Refreshes, Invi
gorates and
(Cucurbitaceae)
Cools the skin
Curcuma longa
Turmeric Rhizome
Anti microbial, Antioxidant
(Zingiberaceae)
Cyperus rotundus
Nagarmotha Roots
Sun tanning, Astringent, Anti
(Cyperaceae)
inflammatory
Daucus carota
Carrot Roots
Essential oil from the plant
seed are used in cosmetic
creams for reducing Wrinkles
(Umbelliferae)
Embelia ribes
Viranga Fruit Skin Ailments
(Myrsinaceae)
Euphorbia hirta
Spurge Herb
Entire
Skin diseases, Cracked lips
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(Euphorbiaceae)
herb
Ficus car
ica
Anjirzard Fruit
Emollient
(Moraceae)
Glycyrrhiza glabra
Liquorice Root
Anti inflammatory, Decrease
(Leguminosae)
Pigmentation marks
Hamamelis virginiana
Witch Hazel
Barks and
Astringent and invigorating
(Hamamelidaceae)
leaves
Effect. Help
s treat acne
Humulud lupulud
Hops Blossoms Good for skin as deodourant
(Cannabinaceae)
Iris germanica
Orris root Roots
Balance moisture content,
(Iridaceae)
maintains Elasticity of skin
Jasminum spp.
Jasmine Flower Fragrance
J Sambac
(Oleaceae)
Linum udiysyiddimum
Flaxseed Leaf Good for burns
(Linaceae)
Mallotus philippensis
Kamala Fruit Skin disorders
(Euphorbiaceae)
Marticaria chamomil/a
Chamomile Flower
Skin Cleanser, Soothing and
(Compo sitae )
Skin Regeneration
Medicago sat
iva
Cleansing and Rebuilding of
(Leguminosae)
Alfalfa
. Plant
Cells
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Mesua ferrea
Cobras
Flower Astringent
(Guttiferae)
saffron
Mimosa pudica
Lajalu Leaves Skin Disorders
(Leguminosae)
Moringa oleifera
Benjamin Seed Skin Conditioner
(Moringace
ae)
Nerium oleander,
N indium
Kaner
Root
Skin Disorders
(Apocynaceae)
Ocimum sanctum
Tulsi
Entire
Antibacterial, Decrease Dark
(Labiatae) herb
Spots
Panax ginseng
Ginseng Root Stimulate blood flow to skin
(Araliaceae)
Pongamia glabra
Karanj Seed Skin Disorders
(Leguminosae)
Prunus spinosa
Nlackthom Plant Astringent
(Rosaceae)
Petrocarpus santalinus
Red
Wood Good for Skin, Anti -Acne
(Leguminosae)
sandalwood
Rubia cordifolia
Manjistha Root
Wound Healing, Lighten
(Rubiacea
e)
Pigmentation Marks
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Santalum album
Sandalwood Wood Antiseptic, Fragrance
(Santalaceae)
Saraca indica
Ashoka Bark Skin Care
(Leguminosae)
Saussurea costus,
Kuth Root
Skin Disorders
S. lapa (Compositae )
Smilax china
Chobehini Roots Skin Disorders
(Liliaceae)
Solanum indicum
Barhanta
Roots &
for Skin Itching
(Solanaceae)
Fruits
Stellaria media
Chickweed Plant
Soothes the skin, Reduce
(Caryophyllaceae)
Itching
Terminalia chebula
Harda Fruit Astringent
(Combretaceae)
The
obroma cocao
Cocoa Fruit Emollient
(Sterculiaceae)
Triticum sativum
Wheat germ Germ
Natural source of Vitamin E
(Graminae)
Vetiveria zizanioides
Vetiver
Root
Improve Complexation of
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Skin
(Graminae)
Zanthoxylum armatum
Tumra
Fruits &
for Skin Care
(Rutaceae)
Flowers
Zingiber zerumbet
Zamabad Rhizomes Skin Care
(Zingiberaceae)
Zizyphus jujube
Zizyphus Fruit
Skin Care
(Rhamnaceae)
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Table 5
Essential oils used in cosmetics
Common
Botanical Source
Part
used for
Name
essential oil
Use
extraction
Camphor Oil
Cinnamomum camphora
Wood
Rubifacient
(Lauraceae)
Chamomile Oil
Matricaria Chamomilla
Flower
Anti Inflammatory
(Compositae)
Eucalyptus Oil
Eucalyptus globules (Myrtaceae)
Fresh leaves
Antiseptic and
And as a Deodourant
Garlic Oil
Allium sativum (Liliaceae)
Compound
Anti Inflammatory and
bulb
Antibacterial
Geranium Oil Pelargonium graveolens Leaves and
Skin toner
(Geraniaceae)
stems
Henna Oil
Lawsonia alba (Lythraceae)
Flo
wer
Falling and Graying of
Hair
Jasmine Oil
Jasminum sambac (Oleaceae)
Flower
In
Skin Care,
As a Deodourant
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Levender Oil
Levendula officinalis (Labiatae)
Flowering tops
In
Perfumes
Marigold Oil
Calendula officinalis
Flower
Anti Inflammatory and
(Compo sitae )
As an Antiseptic
Palmarosa Oil
Cumbopogon martini
Leaves and
In Perfumery
(Graminae)
tops
Patchouli Oil Pogostemon patchouli (Labiatae) Leaves In Perfumery and in
Soaps
Peppermint Oil Mentha piperita (Libiatae) Flowering tops
Flavor
ing Agent
Rose Oil Rosa damascene (Rosaceae) Flower
In Perfumery
Rosemary Oil Rosmarinus officinalis Leaves In Perfumery, in Soaps
& in Aroma Therapy
(Labiatae)
Sage Oil
Salvia officinalis (Labiatae)
Leaves
As a Aromatic, Reduces
Ssweating
Sa
ndalwood
Santalum album (Santalaceae)
Heart
-
wood
Aromatic, Deodourant
Oil
and in Soaps
Spearmint Oil
Mentha spicate (Labiatae)
Dried leaves &
Flavoring agent
Tea Tree Oil
Melaleuca altemifolia
Leaves
Antiseptic
(Myrtaceae)
Thyme Oil
Thymus vulgar
is (Labiatae)
Leaves
Anti Acne
Tulsi Oil
Ocimum sanctum (Labiatae)
Leaves
Anti Acne, and used in
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soaps
Turmeric Oil
Curcuma longa (Zingiberaceae)
Rhizome
Anti Acne, Anti
Bacterial, in Soaps,
Creams etc.
Vetiver Oil
Vetiveria zizanoides
Root
Ar
omatic, Refrigerant
(Gramineae)
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Table 6
Base oils useful in cosmetics
Botanical Source
Part used
Uses
Name
which
contains oil
Almond Oil
Prunus due/is, P.
Seed
Shampoos and Skin lotions.
amygdalus
Softens, Bleaches and Nou
rishes
(Rosaceae)
the Skin
Castor Oil
Ricinus communis
Seed
Skin Care
(Euphorbiaceae)
Chironji Oil
Buchanania lanzan
Seed
Skin Care
(Anacardiaceae)
cotton seed Oil
Gossypium herbaceum
Seed
Emollient
(Malvaceae)
Evening
Primrose Oenothera biennis Seed
Cosmetics used in Eczema and
used as Face Masks to
Counteract Reddened Skin
Anti Aging Problem
Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia chinensis,
Seed
For Deep Cleans. Excellent for
(Liquid Gold)
S.californica
Psoriasis and Eczema.
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(Buxaceae)
Nourishing
the Hair and Skin
Kokam Oil
Garcinia indica
Seed
Skin Care
(Guttiferae)
Linseed Oil Linum usitatissimum Seed Good for Burns and as an
Emollient
(Flaxseed Oil)
(Linaceae)
Neem Oil
Azadiracta indica
Seed
Skin Care
(Meliaceae)
Olive Oil
Olea
europoea
Fruit
In Skin Disorder
(Oleaceae )
Rice bran Oil
Oryza sativa
Rice bran
As an Emollient
(Rice Oil)
(Gramineae)
Theobroma Theobroma cocao Seed Used as Moisturizer to Prevent
Dry and Itchy Skin
Oil (Cocoa
(Sterculiaceae)
Butter)
Wheat germ Triticum sativum Germ
Used to Prevent Skin Dryness
and Cracking and also as a
Sources for Vitamin E, A and D
Oil
(Gramineae )
