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International Journal Of
Recent Scientific
Research
ISSN: 0976-3031
Volume: 7(2) February -2016
Echhida Sayahi., Taoufik Harizi., Slah Msahli and
Faouzi Sakli
EFFECTS OF TREATMENTS WITH CURLING IRON ON HUMAN HAIR FIBERS
THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF
INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF RECENT SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH (IJRSR)
http://www.recentscientific.com/ recentscientific@gmail.com
International Journal Of
Recent Scientific
Research
ISSN: 0976-3031
Volume: 7(2) February -2016
Echhida Sayahi., Taoufik Harizi., Slah Msahli and
Faouzi Sakli
EFFECTS OF TREATMENTS WITH CURLING IRON ON HUMAN HAIR FIBERS
THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF
INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF RECENT SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH (IJRSR)
http://www.recentscientific.com/ recentscientific@gmail.com
International Journal Of
Recent Scientific
Research
ISSN: 0976-3031
Volume: 7(2) February -2016
Echhida Sayahi., Taoufik Harizi., Slah Msahli and
Faouzi Sakli
EFFECTS OF TREATMENTS WITH CURLING IRON ON HUMAN HAIR FIBERS
THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF
INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF RECENT SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH (IJRSR)
http://www.recentscientific.com/ recentscientific@gmail.com
*Corresponding author: Echhida Sayahi
Textile Engineering Laboratory of Ksar Hellal, University of Monastir, Tunisia
ISSN: 0976-3031
RESEARCH ARTICLE
EFFECTS OF TREATMENTS WITH CURLING IRON ON HUMAN HAIR FIBERS
Echhida Sayahi*., Taoufik Harizi., Slah Msahli and Faouzi Sakli
Textile Engineering Laboratory of Ksar Hellal, University of Monastir, Tunisia
ARTICLE INFO ABSTRACT
Thermal treatments for hair styling are becoming increasingly popular with consumers both at home
and in hair salons. The aim of the present study was to reports an investigation into the effects of
this treatment by flat iron on Tunisian hairs. Untreated hair (not chemically treated) was obtained
from a volunteer woman who have 34 years old. Individual hair fibers were mounted in parallel
arrangement and subjected to 20, 40, 60 and 80 cycles of curling with the flat iron. Each cycle
consisted of fifteen seconds of heating at a temperature of 180°C and fifteen second of cooling. In
the other hand, the same hair fibers were bleached using H2O2 and subject to the same thermal
treatment as virgin hair. The resulting damage to the fibers has been investigated and quantified by
tensile measurement and surface characterization. Tensile properties were performed using a
Miniature Tensile Tester Model 675 of Dia-Stron and surface characterization was examined using
the SEM. After the cited treatment, the cuticle which is the outer covering surrounding and
protecting the cortex was destroyed and a cracking of the cuticule cells and a scale lifting was
observed for both virgin and bleached hair. It has also contributed to a progressive decrease in the
tensile properties of the hair. The elastic modulus and the break stress have respectively decreased
of 12.4 % and 18.18% for virgin hair. However, bleached hair loosed 35.7% and 50% respectively
of the elastic modulus and the break stress at 100 % RH.
In conclusion, the thermal treatment has conducted to the hair surface modification and cuticle
damage. In addition, there was a significant reduction in tensile properties after treatment as a
function of exposure time especially bleached hair which was affected by the curling more than
virgin hair.
INTRODUCTION
Human hair can undergo different treatments which can
influence its properties (Ragelienè et al, 2009; Signori and
Lewis, 1997; Kon, 1998; Wolfram et al, 1970; Robbins, 1969).
Among this treatment, the study of heat effects on keratin
fibers has both fundamental and applied interest. In literatures,
there are many experimental studies about the effects of
chemical treatments on human hair, such as permanent-waving,
bleaching, relaxing, or oxidative dyeing (Robbins, 1994). Also,
physical changes produced as a result of grooming operations
have been thoroughly discussed (Garcia, 1976) In addition; the
photodegradation of human hair has been of growing interest to
scientists and has warranted considerable attention (Hoting and
Zimmermann, 1996; Pande and Jachowicz, 1993). On the other
hand, the literature reflects a limited amount of research
focusing on the irreversible chemical or physicochemical
changes occurring in hair as a result of thermal treatments
applied to hair in conjunction with the use of flat irons or
hairdryers (Crawford, 1981; Humphries, 1972; Rebenfeld,
1966).
Ethnicity is an important factor to consider when evaluating the
behavior of hair, which may potentially impact the hair’s
response to treatments and processes. Although same
researches were interested to the effect of thermal treatment on
human hair (Crawford, 1981; Humphries, 1972; Rebenfeld,
1966; Mcmullenand Jachowicz, 1998; Ruetsch and Kamath,
2004), no studies have examined the behavior of Tunisian hair
after treatment with flat iron. The aim of this study is to
investigate the effect of the thermal treatment on Tunisian hair.
The changes in hair properties were characterized by several
techniques including dry and wet tensile properties and
scanning electron microscopic (SEM) examination.
MATERIALS AND METHODS
Untreated hair (not chemically treated) was obtained from
volunteer Tunisian women (who has 34 years old). Hair was
cut near the end of the hair shaft (10 cm long). Individual hair
Available Online at http://www.recentscientific.com
International Journal
of Recent Scientific
Research
International Journal of Recent Scientific Research
Vol. 7, Issue, 2, pp. 8736-8740, February, 2016
Copyright © Echhida Sayahi., Taoufik Harizi., Slah Msahli and Faouzi Sakli., 2016, this is an open-access article
distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License, which permits unrestricted use, distribution and
reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.
Article History:
Received 15th November, 2015
Received in revised form 21st
December, 2015
Accepted 06th January, 2015
Published online 28th
February, 2016
Key words:
Untreated hair, bleached hair, flat
iron, SEM analysis, tensile properties
Echhida Sayahi et al., Effects of Treatments With Curling Iron on Human Hair Fibers
8737 | P a g e
fibers were mounted in parallel arrangement as shown in figure
1 and subjected to 20, 40, 60 and 80 cycles of heating with the
flat iron. Each cycle consisted of fifteen second of thermal
treatment and fifteen second of cooling. We have used a Braun
satin flat iron and the temperature of treatment was fixed at
180°C. In this case, individually treated fibers will be much
more affected by the hot metal surface than a hair fiber
assembly, which tends to absorb and distribute the heat and
moderate temperature within the hair strand.
In order to maintain uniformity of the experimental conditions
and to assure reproducibility of the obtained data, the treatment
was administered in the same position.
After the treatment, the fibers were conditioned for at least 24 h
at 65% +/- 4 RH and 21°C +/- 2 °C. Specimens from the same
treated fibers were used to examine the effects of “repeated
cyclical short-time heating/cooling” on the mechanical
properties of hair.
The tensile measurements were performed using a Miniature
Tensile Tester Model 675 (MTT675) and a Fiber Dimensional
Analysis Unit Model 765 (FDAS765) of Dia-Stron, UK. About
50 single fibers were tested for each sample at a stretching rate
of 20 mm/min and a gauge force of 1.5 gmf, as initial
condition. The measurements were performed in wet
conditions. Prior to loading in the circular cassette, the samples
were immersed in distilled water for 120 min to allow them
wetting. During the measurements the cassettes were also filled
with distilled water to ensure the 100% humidity content
during the measurement. Mechanical properties were also
measured in dry conditions at 65% +/- 4 RH and 21°C +/- 2 °C.
To show the effect of thermal treatment in hair surface, we
have exanimate the fiber surface using the SEM. We have used
a SEM S360 (Zeiss NTS GmbH, Oberkochen).
Concerning the bleached hair, the bleaching was induced for 30
mn by an oxidative treatment with commercial bleaching
products (IGORA VARIO BLOND PLUS bleaching powder
and IGORA ROYAL 30 vol 9% H2O2bleaching lotion). The
oxidative procedure followed the instructions of use. The fibers
were cleaned with 1% Lauryl ether sulphate (LES) and rinsed
with distilled water after the treatment.
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
Effect of thermal treatment on virgin hair
Keratin fibers present a complex surface morphology, the most
apparent of which are the cuticle scales that surround each
fiber. It is a protective coating made of overlapping scales,
produce a characteristic pattern.
The typical topography of virgin hair fiber without thermal
treatment is shown in figure 2. The untreated controls show
good differentiation of the cuticle cell. There may be some
debris on the scale faces and jagged scale edges, which is
normal and indicative of chipping damage from standard
grooming practices.
Surface examination using the SEM was used in many studies
to observe the effect of some treatment on hair surface
(Ruetsch and Kamath, 2004; Garcia, 1998; Robinson, 1976).
After the treatment of hair with the flat iron, about ten fibers of
these were examined in the SEM. Damage phenomena or
special features observed in the hair specimens are described as
"typical" or "representative" in this discussion. The thermally
induced damage phenomena are shown in Figure 3 which
represents the damage after 80 cycles of treatments.
Figure 1 hair fibers mounted in parallel arrangement for thermal treatment
Figure 2 Topography of untreated hair (x 1000)
Echhida Sayahi et al., Effects of Treatments With Curling Iron on Human Hair Fibers
8737 | P a g e
fibers were mounted in parallel arrangement as shown in figure
1 and subjected to 20, 40, 60 and 80 cycles of heating with the
flat iron. Each cycle consisted of fifteen second of thermal
treatment and fifteen second of cooling. We have used a Braun
satin flat iron and the temperature of treatment was fixed at
180°C. In this case, individually treated fibers will be much
more affected by the hot metal surface than a hair fiber
assembly, which tends to absorb and distribute the heat and
moderate temperature within the hair strand.
In order to maintain uniformity of the experimental conditions
and to assure reproducibility of the obtained data, the treatment
was administered in the same position.
After the treatment, the fibers were conditioned for at least 24 h
at 65% +/- 4 RH and 21°C +/- 2 °C. Specimens from the same
treated fibers were used to examine the effects of “repeated
cyclical short-time heating/cooling” on the mechanical
properties of hair.
The tensile measurements were performed using a Miniature
Tensile Tester Model 675 (MTT675) and a Fiber Dimensional
Analysis Unit Model 765 (FDAS765) of Dia-Stron, UK. About
50 single fibers were tested for each sample at a stretching rate
of 20 mm/min and a gauge force of 1.5 gmf, as initial
condition. The measurements were performed in wet
conditions. Prior to loading in the circular cassette, the samples
were immersed in distilled water for 120 min to allow them
wetting. During the measurements the cassettes were also filled
with distilled water to ensure the 100% humidity content
during the measurement. Mechanical properties were also
measured in dry conditions at 65% +/- 4 RH and 21°C +/- 2 °C.
To show the effect of thermal treatment in hair surface, we
have exanimate the fiber surface using the SEM. We have used
a SEM S360 (Zeiss NTS GmbH, Oberkochen).
Concerning the bleached hair, the bleaching was induced for 30
mn by an oxidative treatment with commercial bleaching
products (IGORA VARIO BLOND PLUS bleaching powder
and IGORA ROYAL 30 vol 9% H2O2bleaching lotion). The
oxidative procedure followed the instructions of use. The fibers
were cleaned with 1% Lauryl ether sulphate (LES) and rinsed
with distilled water after the treatment.
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
Effect of thermal treatment on virgin hair
Keratin fibers present a complex surface morphology, the most
apparent of which are the cuticle scales that surround each
fiber. It is a protective coating made of overlapping scales,
produce a characteristic pattern.
The typical topography of virgin hair fiber without thermal
treatment is shown in figure 2. The untreated controls show
good differentiation of the cuticle cell. There may be some
debris on the scale faces and jagged scale edges, which is
normal and indicative of chipping damage from standard
grooming practices.
Surface examination using the SEM was used in many studies
to observe the effect of some treatment on hair surface
(Ruetsch and Kamath, 2004; Garcia, 1998; Robinson, 1976).
After the treatment of hair with the flat iron, about ten fibers of
these were examined in the SEM. Damage phenomena or
special features observed in the hair specimens are described as
"typical" or "representative" in this discussion. The thermally
induced damage phenomena are shown in Figure 3 which
represents the damage after 80 cycles of treatments.
Figure 1 hair fibers mounted in parallel arrangement for thermal treatment
Figure 2 Topography of untreated hair (x 1000)
Echhida Sayahi et al., Effects of Treatments With Curling Iron on Human Hair Fibers
8737 | P a g e
fibers were mounted in parallel arrangement as shown in figure
1 and subjected to 20, 40, 60 and 80 cycles of heating with the
flat iron. Each cycle consisted of fifteen second of thermal
treatment and fifteen second of cooling. We have used a Braun
satin flat iron and the temperature of treatment was fixed at
180°C. In this case, individually treated fibers will be much
more affected by the hot metal surface than a hair fiber
assembly, which tends to absorb and distribute the heat and
moderate temperature within the hair strand.
In order to maintain uniformity of the experimental conditions
and to assure reproducibility of the obtained data, the treatment
was administered in the same position.
After the treatment, the fibers were conditioned for at least 24 h
at 65% +/- 4 RH and 21°C +/- 2 °C. Specimens from the same
treated fibers were used to examine the effects of “repeated
cyclical short-time heating/cooling” on the mechanical
properties of hair.
The tensile measurements were performed using a Miniature
Tensile Tester Model 675 (MTT675) and a Fiber Dimensional
Analysis Unit Model 765 (FDAS765) of Dia-Stron, UK. About
50 single fibers were tested for each sample at a stretching rate
of 20 mm/min and a gauge force of 1.5 gmf, as initial
condition. The measurements were performed in wet
conditions. Prior to loading in the circular cassette, the samples
were immersed in distilled water for 120 min to allow them
wetting. During the measurements the cassettes were also filled
with distilled water to ensure the 100% humidity content
during the measurement. Mechanical properties were also
measured in dry conditions at 65% +/- 4 RH and 21°C +/- 2 °C.
To show the effect of thermal treatment in hair surface, we
have exanimate the fiber surface using the SEM. We have used
a SEM S360 (Zeiss NTS GmbH, Oberkochen).
Concerning the bleached hair, the bleaching was induced for 30
mn by an oxidative treatment with commercial bleaching
products (IGORA VARIO BLOND PLUS bleaching powder
and IGORA ROYAL 30 vol 9% H2O2bleaching lotion). The
oxidative procedure followed the instructions of use. The fibers
were cleaned with 1% Lauryl ether sulphate (LES) and rinsed
with distilled water after the treatment.
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
Effect of thermal treatment on virgin hair
Keratin fibers present a complex surface morphology, the most
apparent of which are the cuticle scales that surround each
fiber. It is a protective coating made of overlapping scales,
produce a characteristic pattern.
The typical topography of virgin hair fiber without thermal
treatment is shown in figure 2. The untreated controls show
good differentiation of the cuticle cell. There may be some
debris on the scale faces and jagged scale edges, which is
normal and indicative of chipping damage from standard
grooming practices.
Surface examination using the SEM was used in many studies
to observe the effect of some treatment on hair surface
(Ruetsch and Kamath, 2004; Garcia, 1998; Robinson, 1976).
After the treatment of hair with the flat iron, about ten fibers of
these were examined in the SEM. Damage phenomena or
special features observed in the hair specimens are described as
"typical" or "representative" in this discussion. The thermally
induced damage phenomena are shown in Figure 3 which
represents the damage after 80 cycles of treatments.
Figure 1 hair fibers mounted in parallel arrangement for thermal treatment
Figure 2 Topography of untreated hair (x 1000)
International Journal of Recent Scientific Research Vol. 7, Issue, 2, pp. 8736-8740, February, 2016
8738 | P a g e
The above figures seem to suggest that the contact time of 80
thermal cycles for individual hair fibers with the heated metal
surface of the flat iron has produced a severe damage in hair
surface. We showed a fusion of the scales edges (figure 3b) and
a scale lifting and fracturing has occurred in the cuticle (figure
3a and 3c).The thermal treatment can induce failure in the
endocuticle or the cell membrane complex, the weakest
structures of the cuticle, resulting in the separation of the
surface scales from the underlying layers producing an
uplifting of scales.
Ruetsch and Kamath (2004) have exanimate the hair surface of
European hair after different cycles of thermal treatment using
a curling iron with a temperature ranged from 110°C to 120°C ,
they have observed an increase in various types of surface
damage as a function of progressive thermal exposure. They
have showed a radial cuticular cracking, fine axial cracking of
the exposed surface cuticle cell has become a frequent damage
phenomenon and fusion of the scale edges after 200 cycles of
ten seconds of treatment.
Effect of thermal treatment on the tensile properties of virgin
hair
Specimens from the same tress of Tunisian woman hair were
used to examine the effects of "repeated cyclical
heating/cooling" on the mechanical properties of the hair.
Figure 4 shows data concerning the tensile properties of hair
after thermal treatment. At 65 % RH and 21 °C, we observed in
the figure 4b a significant reduction in extension at break.
Figure 3 (a-c) thermally induced damage phenomena commonly observed
on virgin hair exposed to 80 thermal cycles of treatments with the flat iron
Figure 4 Tensile properties as a function of time of thermal treatment of
virgin hair: (a) elastic modulus, (b) Strain at break, (c) break stress, (d)
total work
1.00
2.00
3.00
4.00
0 20 40 60 80 100
Elastic modulus (GPa)
Number of applied thermal cycles
65 % RH
Wet conditions
a
30
40
50
60
70
0 20 40 60 80 100
Strain at break (%)
Number of applied thermal cycles
65 % RH
Wet conditions
b
50
100
150
200
250
0 20 40 60 80 100
break stress (MPa)
Number of applied thermal cycles
65 % RH
Wet conditions
c
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
0 20 40 60 80 100
Total work (mJ)
Number of applied thermal cycles
65 % RH
Wet conditions
d
Echhida Sayahi et al., Effects of Treatments With Curling Iron on Human Hair Fibers
8739 | P a g e
Thermal treatment induces a decrease of the strain to break
with increasing the time of treatment. This can be due to the
rupture of hydrogen bonds and the introduction of new
crosslinks by dehydration reactions at a higher temperature
(Anne, 2013). When the fiber is heated, the water content on
the fiber decreased as a result a reduction in extension to break.
In fact, the literature shows that the study of the mechanical
behavior of keratins fibers at wet conditions has demonstrated
that keratin fibers are more extensible on the presence of water
(Popescu and Höcker, 2007; Feughelman, 1997).
Hair dried with heat and equilibrated at room temperature at a
moderate relative humidity will have lower moisture content
than room temperature dried hair. After heat drying, hair
absorbs moisture but does not return to the room temperature
dried water level until it is rewet or conditioned at a higher
relative humidity and dried at room temperature (Crawford,
1981). However, we note an increase of the elastic modulus as
time of treatment increased, suggests rigidification of the fiber
structure. One of the physical transformations in hair structure,
occurring as a result of annealing between 70 °C and 180 °C, is
an increase in fiber crystallinity, demonstrated by Milczarek et
al (1992). Ruetsch and Kamath (2004) have studied the effect
of thermal treatment at a temperature of 110 °C (200 times for
ten seconds each) on the mechanical properties of a dark brown
European hair, they have found slight increases in breaking
strength with no statistical significance, a negligible variation
in the initial modulus and a reduction of 5 % in the extension at
break. Their results show a slight damage compared to our
data.
The measurements were also performed in wet conditions,
considered to reflect best the changes at the level of
intermediate filaments (Wortmann and De Jong, 1985; Schmidt
and Wortmann; Wortmann and Zahn, 2004).
The effect of thermal treatment is more important on wet
condition compared to its effect on mechanical properties at 65
% RH. In fact, we show a decrease of 15, 88 % against 12,63 %
in the extension to break respectively at wet and dry conditions.
The break stress was also reduced of 18.18 % and 10 %
respectively at 100 % and 65 % RH.
The measurement of the mechanical characteristic at 65 % RH
and 100 % RH of the thermally treated hair demonstrate that
the damage occurred in hair after thermal treatment at 180 °C is
irreversible.
Effect of thermal treatment on the tensile properties of
bleached hair
Table I and II present the mechanical properties on wet and dry
conditions of bleached hair after thermal treatment.
Table I reveal a significant reduction on the mechanical
properties of the bleached hair on dry conditions. Compared to
the results obtained for virgin hair, we observed that the effect
of the heating on the elastic modulus and the strain to break of
bleached hair is similar to its effect on virgin hair. However,
we noted that the reduction of the break stress is more
important for bleached hair. In fact, break stress of bleached
hair decrease of 21 % against 10% for virgin hair after 80
cycles of treatment.
]]]]
It’s clear from this data that thermal treatment produces a
severe damage of bleached hair mechanical properties
especially when it was measured at 100 % RH. In fact, the
elastic modulus decreases of 35.76%. The bleached hair loses
also about 50% of it stress after 80 thermal cycles using flat
iron at 180 °C.
Bleaching treatment affects the mechanical properties of hair.
In fact, the bleaching reduces the cystine content of the hair
which was through their high mechanical stability (Robinson,
1976). It also increases the porosity of the fiber (Syed and
Ayoub, 2002). Thus, at a higher humidity the water uptake
increase on the fiber, this was probably responsible for the loss
of the physical strength on wet condition of the bleached hair
after thermal treatment.
CONCLUSION
The thermal treatment of hair with the flat irons, at 180 °C was
found to result in significant damage of hair fiber. The extent of
damage was quantified in terms of (a) hair surface modification
and cuticle damage determined by Scanning Electron
Microscope (b) tensile mechanical properties determined by
Diastron measurement. Both fiber surface and tensile properties
were affected. Thermal treatment produces a fusion of the
cuticule cells and a scale lifting. In addition, a significant
reduction of the hair mechanical properties was detected
especially at wet conditions. Thermal treatment affects the
tensile properties of bleached hair more than the virgin hair.
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Table I Tensile properties on dry conditions of thermally
treated bleached hair
Number of applied thermal cycles
Bleached hair
40
60
80
Elastic modulus (GPa)
3,19 ± 0,29
3,15 ± 0,19
3,27 ± 0,22
3,44 ± 0,29
Stress at break (Mpa)
198 ± 13,3
163 ± 12,8
160 ± 13,3
156 ± 13
Extension at break (%)
50,05 ± 2,54
45,91 ± 3,89
45,07± 3,22
42,06 ± 4,1
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40
60
80
Elastic modulus (GPa)
1,37 ± 0,1
0,93 ± 0,1
1,01 ± 0,1
0,88 ± 0,15
Stress at break (Mpa)
173 ± 11,7
102 ± 11,8
105 ± 15,9
84,7 ± 13,1
Extension at break (%)
64,07 ± 3,51
51,46 ± 3,36
51,67 ± 4,47
47,86 ± 4,03
International Journal of Recent Scientific Research Vol. 7, Issue, 2, pp. 8736-8740, February, 2016
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How to cite this article:
Echhida Sayahi et al.2016, Effects of Treatments With Curling Iron on Human Hair Fibers. Int J Recent Sci Res. 7(2), pp. 8736-
8740.
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