Article

The political possibilities of art and fashion based social enterprise

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Abstract

Social enterprise is a growing force in the Australian economy, with great potential for local job-creation and stimulating new entrepreneurship across the service, manufacturing and retail industries. However, the sector also has a ‘dark side’ – whereby its social welfare agendas are sidelined in favour of profit-driven motives, the outsourcing of government services and perpetuation of inequalities between those that manage and those that benefit from the enterprises. In this light, it is perhaps not surprising that social enterprise literature has emerged predominantly from the field of business management, resulting in an over-representation of perspectives that privilege the economic, and technocratic, aspects of social entrepreneurship. This is particularly problematic in the context of the arts, which often challenge, transform and exceed conventional understandings of social value. This paper explores the potential role of art- and fashion-based social enterprises in contributing to sustainable community development while also activating positions of critique and political engagement from inside the mechanisms of contemporary capitalism. https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/10304312.2016.1262103?scroll=top&needAccess=true

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... Defined by Kerlin (2013, p. 85) as "the use of nongovernmental, market-based approaches to address social issues", social enterprises are hybrid organisations functioning across both the private and public sectors (Reavey and Guarise, 2020). The term fashion-based social enterprise (FSE) was first coined by McQuilten (2017) and refers to social enterprises that aid a social mission via the sale of fashion products on the free market. ...
... FSEs may adopt this approach because they aim to raise awareness of their social mission and/or to gain a competitive advantage in the fashion market by emphasising their altruistic values. Nevertheless, this approach has a flip side of potentially commercialising and commodifying the positions of disadvantage/marginality of the beneficiaries (McQuilten, 2017). While beyond the scope of this paper, the authors encourage further research into the potential commodification of disadvantage, whether inadvertent or not. ...
Article
Purpose This paper aims to understand how fashion-based social enterprises (FSEs) navigate the marketing communications of fashion products alongside those of their social mission. The authors use the theoretical lens of Consumer culture theory, Collin Campbell’s “Romantic ethic” and the work of Eva Illouz to explore how FSEs weave the emotional appeals of fashion consumption with those of contributing to a greater social cause. The melding of these theoretical approaches to consumer behaviour enables a thorough analysis of FSE marketing strategies. Design/methodology/approach Semi-structured in-depth interviews were conducted with 16 founders, marketing directors and managers of FSEs. Open-ended questions were used, and key themes were established through inductive analysis. Findings The findings show that FSEs use a form of brand storytelling in their marketing communications; they view their social mission as a unique selling point; FSEs could further incorporate product quality/aesthetic value into brand storytelling; and they could sharpen brand storytelling by further engaging with the positive emotional responses they elicit from consumers. Originality/value This research has both theoretical and practical implications in that FSEs that focus on explicit altruistic messaging at the expense of aesthetic hedonism may limit their appeal to mainstream fashion consumers. Accordingly, a promising approach may be to effectively incorporate and link the positive emotional responses of both altruistic and aesthetic value. This approach could similarly apply to other areas of social enterprise retail marketing, particularly for those seeking to attract consumers beyond ethical shoppers.
... For example, in Simplican study [35], they documented how in a care-based community, there's a sense of burden since caregiving is a form of work. However, interestingly, this community acknowledged that burden and, to make the burden visible, they use drawing. ...
... Over time, clothing has performed essential functions related to protecting and beautifying the human body (Treptow, 2013); nowadays, clothing has performed several other increasingly essential purposes, such as developing more inclusive relationships in userproduct interaction (Varnier et al., 2019). Through clothing, it is possible to express desires, feelings, values, identities, and issues related to diversity (Barnard, 2013;Tajuddin, 2018), thus becoming an essential tool for social inclusion (McQuilten, 2017;Busch, 2018). In addition to providing facilities for people with disabilities, inclusive fashion introduces a new concept of comfort to this sector, combined with beauty and style, attributes characteristic of fashion used by people without disabilities (Varnier et al., 2019). ...
... Social entrepreneurship is a mature field of research that has been thoroughly examined by scholars and literature provides enough evidence that the number of social entrepreneurship researchers and publications has been increasing over the last two decades (Hota et al., 2019;McQuilten, 2017;Short et al., 2009;Zahra et al., 2014). ...
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The present study examines the evolving nature of social enterprise and identifies the most significant factors related to individuals and institutions. Organisations that pursue both profit and non-profit objectives, thus maintaining a mix of market- and mission-oriented practices and beliefs for addressing social and ecological issues, are known as “social enterprises.” The present study examines the methods of identifying, evaluating, and exploiting the principal factors related to social entrepreneurial opportunities. For this purpose, a qualitative research process applying the Delphi technique was conducted. A Delphi sample of 25 experts from Spain and Latin America was included. This study contributes to building a framework of reference for academics and practitioners regarding the key factors influencing the different stages of the social entrepreneurial process. The empirical results of the study offer a testimony of the most significant, both contextual and individual, factors in each stage of the social entrepreneurial process.
... Social entrepreneurship (hereafter, SEship) is defined as an "entrepreneurial activity with an embedded social purpose" (Austin et al. 2006). In recent decades, it has evolved as a significant research domain for firms and academics (Kannampuzha and Hockerts 2019;Kim 2022;Rey-Martí et al. 2016), and the number of studies and publications on this topic have steadily increased (Hota et al. 2020;McQuilten 2017;Short et al. 2009;Zahra et al. 2014). The growth in research covers topics such as the social impact of SEship (Nguyen et al. 2015), social innovation and SEship (Phillips et al. 2015), SEship business strategies and business models (George and Reed 2016;Roy and Karna 2015), comparisons with By addressing the above-stated research objectives, we mainly contribute to the development of women in SEship field in three ways. ...
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A recent increase in research on social entrepreneurship (SEship) has been characterized by more focus on gender-based topics, especially women. To address the status of women in SEship, we conduct a rigorous systematic literature review of 1142 papers on SEship and 59 articles on the sub-domain of women. Based on the findings, the article presents several suggestions for future research: (i) reinterpretation of theoretical concepts, (ii) social integration and overcoming gender discrimination, (iii) expansion of sectors and regions, and (iv) operation strategy and performance factors. This study contributes to the development of SEship by providing an overview of women in SEship.
... A wide range of indicators confirm this expansion in entrepreneurial impact beyond the traditional for-profit world: the rate of new non-profit formation has outstripped that of traditional business formation (Austin et al. 2006a); non-profits contributed an estimated $1.1 trillion to the US economy in 2016, comprising 5.6 percent of the country's gross domestic product (Bureau of Economic Analysis 2020); best-selling books lists include numerous accounts of entrepreneurial successes in the social sector (Counts 2019;Harrison 2018;Patrick 2019;Sud et al. 2009). Alongside these broad phenomena, there has also been notable growth in the academic study of social entrepreneurship (Hota et al. 2019;McQuilten 2017;Zahra et al. 2014;Short et al. 2009). Indeed, there was a five-fold increase in academic publications on social enterprise between 2008-2018 (Gupta et al. 2020). ...
Article
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In this paper, we propose that unreflective use of the term social entrepreneurship may perpetuate the idea that “entrepreneurship” is largely a financial and private reality and that this view of entrepreneurship will eventually trivialize or perhaps undermine the important benefits and the real intentions behind the social entrepreneurship movement. We believe that Catholic Social Teaching can shed important light on this dilemma by emphasizing three specific strategies inherent to entrepreneurship when assessing the moral contribution of the firm. As a result, we argue for the principles of good goods, good work and good wealth as an alternative framework for all good entrepreneurial venture.
... The literature provides enough evidence that the number of SE researchers and publications has been increasing over the last two decades (Hota et al., 2019;Zahra, Newey, & Li, 2014;Short et al., 2009;McQuilten, 2017). A review of the extant literature on SE confirmed the existence of a variety of already-explored research themes. ...
Article
Social Entrepreneurship (SE) is a popular area of research and practice. An analysis of the existing literature reviews on SE reveals a dearth of studies classifying the existing SE literature into multiple research themes and further presenting popular and less popular research themes. With the aim of bridging this gap, this study presents a systematic review of 188 peer reviewed SSCI journal articles published in last decade. It presents an overview of recent SE research, classifying it in five main themes while identifying the thrust areas of research in each. Based on identified research gaps, we provide future research directions, contexts and methodology.
... Focusing on examples of small-scale entrepreneurial practices outside the industrial wage-labour system, Gibson-Graham suggest that a globalized 'ethics of the local' is vital for thinking about 'new possibilities of community' that emerge as the nation 'loses its hold on us' (Gibson-Graham 2003, 49). In this issue, Grace McQuilten uses social enterprise case studies to examine intersections between experimental social agendas and equally experimental economic practices (McQuilten 2017). Women of South Sudanese backgrounds involved in art and fashion-based enterprises in Melbourne use culture in order to articulate their heritage and identity. ...
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Critical tools are needed for navigating the concept of minority and its usefulness for the study of culture. This article reflects on the cultural and political purposes that are served when distinguishing between majorities and minorities, and the various historical and intellectual agendas that have shaped these social practices of classification. It begins by examining Deleuze and Guattari’s concept of ‘minor literature’ as an anti-sociological reworking of minor and minority, then turns its attention toward the policy-driven sociological traditions of the Chicago School, and how this has informed the contemporary construction of ‘minorities’ reflected in Australian immigration debates. As a third key paradigm in the study of the ‘minor’, the article revisits cultural studies’ own embrace of the Popular as a site for political struggles over the meanings attached to ‘major’ and ‘minor’ social identities. Finally, we consider the range of transformative cultural practices addressed in this Minor Culture special issue, and reflect on the utility of the minor in holding together disparate political projects. There are a range of ways in which the minor might productively imagine or construct collective identities, in ways that do not anticipate, or even desire, majoritarian endings. It is argued that minoritised social categories do substantive political and cultural work, while acknowledging that numerical descriptions of minorities can hide as much as they reveal.
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Creative material practice, in both differing and similar ways to technological and digital creative processes, has the ability to engage young people who face barriers to mainstream education but who may lack digital literacy skills. This chapter will thus look at art-based social enterprises that engage with textiles and fashion with the specific aim of addressing barriers to employment for young creatives affected by the impacts of migration and displacement. How are craft and textile forms leveraged for learning models that engage young people who have had disengaged prior experiences of education or lacked prior schooling due to the dislocating effects of the migration experience? In the specific context of migration and displacement, material practice draws on cultural traditions and existing creative skills. These skills and aesthetic forms can be deliberately re-oriented to new marketplaces through contemporary fashion, craft and textile design, which in turn support young people to position themselves as creative actors in contemporary global culture/s. This potential is evident in examples of fashion and craft-based social enterprise across both developing and developed economies, and aligns with UNESCO’s advocacy for creative practice that builds on and sustains cultural practice. Yet with the realities of limited funding and the precarious market for fashion retail globally, how ambitious can fashion and craft based ASEs be in imagining their development and growth in terms of the scope and impact of the training programs they offer?
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Australia's relations with its neighbours in the South Pacific challenge theories of international relations and foreign policy analysis. Most existing analysis eschews an explicitly theoretical approach in favour of empirical description and ‘common sense’ explanations. Yet repeated patterns of interaction suggest that there is scope for developing a more theoretical understanding of the relationships between Australia and the Pacific islands. Moreover, lying at the margins in several dimensions of interstate relations, these relationships test theories and thus provide a basis to delimit or refine them. This article explores three important ways in which theories of international relations and foreign policy analysis and the study of Australia–Pacific island relations can benefit each other. First, Pacific island resistance to the projection of Australian power tests theories about the tactics available to ‘micro-powers’. Australia's frequent reorientation of and regular distraction from its approach to the Pacific islands provide evidence about ‘under-institutionalised’ policy making. Finally, the interaction of Australia's global ‘middle power’ status with its regional dominance challenges ideas of ‘middle power leadership’ and ‘strategic personalities’. These three insights lead to novel hypotheses about the conduct of foreign policy by non-great powers under conditions of extreme asymmetry.
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As culture and creativity become an increasing driving force in the international marketplace, it is essential to measure their impact not only on the economy but also on society at large. UNESCO has always been at the forefront of addressing the dual cultural and economic nature of cultural goods and services, working on both the theory and the practice. The Organization's Institute of Statistics (UIS) is currently seeking to redefine international data collection standards for the culture and creative sector so that they take into account the needs and specificities of the developing world. Providing an overview of the main approaches to assessing the economic and social importance of culture, this paper highlights the numerous limitations in current statistical information. It also includes a series of proposals based on the pragmatic approach currently being developed at UIS. Introduction: Increasing role of cultural and creative industries In this era of extraordinary change and globalization, many acknowledge that creativity and innovation are now driving the new economy. Organizations and even economic regions that embrace creativity generate significantly higher revenue and provide greater stability into the future. Based on ideas rather than physical capital, the creative economy straddles economic, political, social, cultural and technological issues and is at the crossroads of the arts, business and technology. It is unique in that it relies on an unlimited global resource: human creativity. Growth strategies in the creative economy therefore focus on harnessing the development potential of an unlimited resource and not on optimizing limited resources (as in traditional manufacturing industries). Many stakeholders are involved in this process: the public sector which includes cultural institutions, e.g. museums, public service broadcasting organizations, etc.; the private sector which covers a wide range of commercial operations in all fields of cultural production and distribution; the non-profit sector including many theatre and dance companies, festivals, orchestras, which may receive government subsidies; and non-governmental organizations such as advocacy agencies, actors and musicians' unions. Culture and creative industries have been increasingly integrated into the policy agenda of both developed and developing countries. In 2005, the United Kingdom's Commission for Africa reported that there was a 'real danger that a lack of attention to culture in policy making (…) will overwhelm many of the collective mechanisms of
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Social enterprise has emerged as a businesslike contrast to the traditional nonprofit organization. This article develops an explanatory direction for social enterprise based on institutional perspectives rather than more traditional rational economic concepts. Through Suchman's typology of legitimacy (1995), the article argues that the origin and evolution of social enterprise is put into dramatically different focus, particularly through the concept of moral legitimacy. Moral legitimacy not only connects the overall emergence of social enterprise with neoconservative, pro-business, and promarket political and ideological values that have become central in many nations in the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development but also explains the observation that social enterprise is being more frequently understood and practiced in more narrow commercial and revenue-generation terms.
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Book description: Introducing the fundamental theories and debates in the sociology of art, this broad ranging book, the only edited reader of the sociology of art available, uses extracts from the core foundational and most influential contemporary writers in the field. As such it is essential reading both for students of the sociology of art, and of art history. Divided into five sections, it explores the following key themes: * classical sociological theory and the sociology of art * the social production of art * the sociology of the artist * museums and the social construction of high culture * sociology aesthetic form and the specificity of art. With the addition of an introductory essay that contextualizes the readings within the traditions of sociology and art history, and draws fascinating parallels between the origins and development of these two disciplines, this book opens up a productive interdisciplinary dialogue between sociology and art history as well as providing a fascinating introduction to the subject.
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