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Content uploaded by Tiffany Maughan
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All content in this area was uploaded by Tiffany Maughan on Sep 28, 2016
Content may be subject to copyright.
October 2015 Horticulture/Fruit/2015-05pr
Goji
in the Garden
Tiffany Maughan, Research Associate, and Brent Black, Extension Fruit Specialist
Summary
Goji (Lycium barbarum L.) is native to tropical or
warm regions of mainland East and Southeast Asia
and South Africa. Other common names are
wolfberry, matrimony vine, and boxthorn.
Plant growth habit varies significantly among
cultivars, ranging from viney to erect. Spines are
present on most cultivars but vary in size and
number. When pruned, plants are typically 3 to 6
feet tall but if left without cultivation they can reach
12 feet. Solitary, purple blossoms form in the late
spring (although some species have greenish or
cream flowers) and are followed by small orange to
red fruit about 4 to 6 weeks later. Plants are self-
fruitful and do not require cross-pollination.
In some areas, they are considered a weed due to
their tendency to sucker and spread by seed. Goji
are recommended for zones 4 to 7.
Goji is in the same family as tomato (Solanaceae)
and some cultural and nutritional needs are similar.
Recommended Cultivars
Although plants can readily be propagated from
seeds, using a named cultivar will ensure you are
planting a high-quality and productive plant. In
China, where goji is most widely produced, Lycium
barbarum L. var. barbarum is commonly planted.
Goji is a new crop in American markets, so cultivar
selection is still limited.
Goji plant in bloom.
'Crimson Star' (also known as Ningxia #1) and
'Phoenix Tears,' are available. Both begin bearing 1
to 2 years after planting, although they will not
reach full production for 3 to 5 years. ‘Wolfberry
Agrodevco’ is another cultivar, but it has limited
availability. Many nurseries do not list specific
cultivars of goji, but rather list them simply as
Lycium barbarum.
How to Grow
Site Selection: Plant goji in a location with full sun
(although some shade can be tolerated). Plants can
handle relatively harsh conditions and are a good
choice for locations that may not work well for
other, more traditional, fruits. Fruit quality is best
during hot, dry conditions and diminishes if weather
is cool and humid.
Soil: Natively, goji grow in slightly alkaline soil
(pH of 7 to 8) so many Utah soils support plant
growth well. They do not grow well in acidic soils.
Goji plants tolerate a wide range of soil types but
prefer a light loam. Although goji can be grown in
clay soil, they do not do well if roots are
consistently wet, and care should be taken when
irrigating on heavy soils to avoid waterlogging.
Plant Material: Due to the newness of goji as a crop
in the U.S., it may be difficult to find at local
nurseries. Ordering online may be the best option
for purchasing plants. Visit Cornell University's
Nursery Guide for a list of reputable nurseries
selling goji plants. Plant in the spring into a hole
two-times wider than the roots to encourage easy
root spreading. Applying organic mulch around the
base will help moderate root temperatures and
minimize weeds.
Spacing: In a home garden, goji can be tucked into
many areas of the landscape, provided they are not
too shaded. However, make sure there is enough
room in all directions for the plant to reach full size
and to allow for easy harvest (about 4 to 5 feet in all
directions). If establishing multiple rows, leave 2 to
4 feet between plants within a row and 6 to 8 feet
between rows.
Irrigation: Although fairly drought-tolerant once
established, more frequent irrigation is needed to
establish the roots of new transplants. Irrigation
needs vary depending on soil type and time of year.
Sandy soils need to be watered more frequently than
clay soils as they drain quickly. In general, apply
approximately 1 inch of water per week.
Plants can be watered by surface flooding, micro-
sprinklers or drip irrigation. Drip irrigation is the
most efficient method and helps keep weed and
disease pressure low. If drip irrigation is not
available, a deep soak with the hose at the base of
the plant works well. Fruit are prone to blossom end
rot, a localized calcium deficiency that results from
lack of irrigation or extreme wet/dry cycles.
Fertilizer: Too much fertility results in excess
vegetation, shading, and reduced fruit quality. There
are no specific fertilizer recommendations for goji
in our region; however, some growers amend the
soil based on recommendations for tomato
production. Remember that annual crops, such as
tomato, typically require more fertilizer than
perennial crops and that applying fertilizer based on
tomato recommendations may only be appropriate
during plant establishment. Goji fertilizer
recommendations for other areas in the U.S. are 4 to
5 tablespoons of 16-16-16 per 10 square feet per
year. Reduce this rate in fertile soils to avoid over-
fertilizing. Split total fertilizer amount into three
applications for the year: at budbreak, flowering,
and as the fruit begins to ripen. There is some
evidence suggesting that goji perform very well
without any fertilizer at all.
Ripe goji berries on plant.
Pruning: Fruits form on current year’s wood and
pruning encourages new growth, increasing yields.
Pruning is also important to keep the plant open to
allow for good light penetration and air circulation.
Typically, no pruning is required in the first year.
However, increased pruning in subsequent years is
needed to maintain vigorous new growth.
During the dormant season, begin pruning by
removing any weak, damaged or crossing branches.
Next, shorten lateral branches by cutting back from
the tip by 6 to 18 inches. Limit plant height to keep
harvesting manageable. During the early summer,
pinch off the top 2 to 3 inches of terminal growth.
This practice, commonly referred to as tipping,
encourages canes to produce more lateral branches
which produce more fruit than branches that grow
straight up.
After about 3 years (sometimes less) the plant
usually begins to sucker, sending up additional new
shoots from the root system. If left unchecked, the
plant can become very unmanageable. Dig up the
shoots and either discard or transplant them.
Problems
Weeds: A heavy mulch around each plant will help
reduce weeds. Keeping weeds clear around the plant
minimizes competition and improves goji
performance. A spring application of pre-emergent
herbicide will greatly reduce annual weeds. Using
landscape fabric or a heavy plastic can be very
effective and will minimize suckering.
Insects and Diseases: Since goji is still a fairly new
crop, pest information is limited. The only pest
reported on goji in Utah is the goji gall mite (see
table below). Potato leafhopper, thrips, aphids and
spider mites have been reported as pests of goji in
other states and should be watched for during
routine scouting.
Always refer to product labels, and follow all
directions specified on the label, before applying
any pest control product.
Heavy goji berry yield at a commercial orchard, grown
through black plastic mulch to control weeds.
Problem Identification Control
Goji gall mite
(Aceria kuko)
Extremely small, difficult to see with
naked eye. Pale salmon and wormlike
mites with 6 to 7 generations per year.
Small bead-like galls form on leaves.
They are yellow/green on the bottom
and reddish on top. Each gall holds
large numbers of mites.
Sulfur, insecticidal soap, or horticultural oil (0.5%
solution) can be used to control. None of these should
be used when temperatures will be above 90 °F within
4 hours of spraying. A spray application of 2%
horticultural oil, either in the fall (just before leaves
drop) or in the spring (just as leaves emerge) will be
most effective. Keep alternative hosts such as pepper,
eggplant, and black nightshade, clear from the area.
Powdery mildew
(Sphaerotheca
spp.)
Fungal disease that forms white patches
of powder on leaves and stems.
Prune to improve air circulation and minimize wet
foliage. Horticultural oils can help prevent further
spreading once present in field.
Blossom end rot Calcium deficiency related abiotic
disorder resulting in a water-soaked
spot on the end of fruit.
Control by careful irrigation to minimize extreme
fluctuations in soil moisture (particularly during bloom
and fruit sizing).
Galls on a goji leaf caused by goji gall mite. Photo courtesy
of Ryan Davis, Utah State University.
Harvesting, Productivity and Use
Harvest goji berries when they reach full color
(approximately 35 days after full bloom). Unlike
some berries that can be shaken or beaten from the
plants by mechanical harvesters, goji fruit must be
picked by hand as the fruit do not easily separate
from the stem, and bruised berries will turn black.
Also, the plants continuously produce new
blossoms, so that fruit are ripening over a long
period of time. They will fruit from mid-summer to
late fall. When picking, pull the berries slightly to
the side instead of straight up to reduce the amount
of stem that comes off with the berry.
Goji plants will begin producing fruit when plants
are 2 years old. Maximum production will not be
reached until 3 to 5 years after planting. Depending
on variety, expect to harvest 2 to 6 pounds per plant.
Goji berries are sought after for their health
benefits. They can be dried, juiced, frozen or eaten
fresh. Possibly the most common way to consume
goji berries is as a dried fruit, similar to a raisin, and
they can be eaten alone or used in baking. They can
be dried by laying the fruit out on drying trays in
the sun, or in a food dehydrator (set the temperature
to 105 °F) for about 3 days. Steam juicing works
well, and another option is to soak dried berries in
water overnight and then strain out the berries to
obtain the nutrient-rich juice. Berries can be frozen
and thaw well, maintaining their color and flavor.
Fresh eating is possible, but many people do not
like the texture of the berry and prefer to consume
the berries once processed. Once harvested, the fruit
will store for approximately 2 weeks in the
refrigerator.
Leaves can also be harvested throughout the year to
consume fresh or dried. They can be used to make
tea or powdered and used as a nutritional
supplement.
Sources
Cornell University. 2015. Nursery guide for berries
and small fruit crops. Cornell Fruit, Cornell
University.
http://www.fruit.cornell.edu/berry/nurseries/Ho
neyberries.html
Daugs, D. 2014. Grow the alpha superfood in your
garden. Countryside and Small Stock Journal. P.
63-67.
Demchak, K., and C. Heidenreich. 2014. Goji
berry culture. Penn State Extension.
http://extension.psu.edu/plants/tree-
fruit/news/2014/goji-berry-culture
Hummer, K.E., K.W. Pomper, J. Postman, C.J.
Graham, E. Stover, E. W. Mercure, M. Aradhya,
C. H. Crisosto, L. Ferguson, M.M. Thompson,
P. Byers and F. Zee. 2011. Management of
temperate fruit nut and specialty crop genetic
resources. Chapter 4: Emerging fruit crops. UC
Davis.
http://ucce.ucdavis.edu/files/datastore/234-
2455.pdf
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author(s) and not USDA-RMA.
