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Probiotics - promising cosmetic ingredient or marketing tool?

  • Euromonitor International, London


Fermented beauty products rich in nutrients and other ingredients such as vitamins, antioxidants, probiotics, Omega-3 fatty acids and beneficial enzymes, although trendy, are not new. However, what makes probiotic breaking news in cosmetics is the way that the microorganisms are now being added to formulations which has a direct impact on product positioning in the market. The long-established Crème de la Mer owned by Estée Lauder has been using fermented sea kelp in its formulations for decades, and premium brands such as Murad and SK-II from Procter & Gamble, Sulwashoo from the South Korean cosmetics giant AmorePacific and SU:M37 from LG Household & Healthcare, have been marketing products containing fermented and probiotic ingredients for some years. Brands such as Oskias in the UK and Tula in the US also market products containing fermented probiotic ingredients........
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Fermentedbea utyproductsrichinnu trientsandotherin gredie ntssuchasvitamins,antioxi dants,
probio tics,Omega3fattyacidsandbene ficialenzyme s,althoughtrend y,arenotnew.Howeve r,
whatmakesprob ioticbreaki ngnewsin cosmeticsisthewaythatthemicroorga nismsarenow being
added toformulationswhi chhasadirectimpa ctonproductpositio ningin themarket.
Thelonge stablishe dCrèmedelaMerownedbyEstéeLauderhasbeenusingfermentedseakelp
initsformulation sfordecades,andpre miumbrand ssuchasMuradand SKIIfromProcter&
Gamble,Sulwa shoofromtheSouthKorea ncosmeticsgian tAmorePacificandSU:M37 fromLG
ingred ientsforsomeyears.Brandssuch asOskiasintheUKandTulaintheUSal somarket
productscontai ningfermen tedprobio ticingredients.
Manycosmeticcompa niesareno waddin gprobioticstoantiagingcreamsandproductsspecially
design edforsensitiveskin .Whiletheterm'probiotic'iswellestablish edinfood,whe reprobio tics
areconsid eredaslive microorganismsabletogrowandformacolonythatcanhaveabenefici al
effect,incosmetics(aselfregulatedindustry)thereisnostandardiseddefinitio nofprobiotics.This
makesitvirtuallyimp ossibleforconsumerstounderstan dwhattoexpectfromaproductcarryin gthe
probio ticlabel.
Therearetechni calbarrie rstoincorporateli veprobioticsintoconventionalskincareprodu ctswitha
reasona bleshel flife.
Mostproductscontain alargeperce ntageofwater,andpreserva tivesarerequi redtoprevent
spoila geand,asaresul t,productsonthemarketgenera llydonotcontai nlivemicroo rganisms.
Howeve r,mainstreambrandssuchasCl iniquewithitsRednessSolutionslinecontaining
Lactobaci llusFermenthave founda"smart"waytohandle thisproblembyad dingpro biotic
ingred ientswhich arenotaliveorviabletoformcoloniestotheformulationattheend ofthe
manufacturin gprocess.
Thisisacheapsol utionthatdoesno trequireanyrea lchange inthepreservative systemorinthe
restoftheproduct.Thespeciesmostcommonl yfoundinAmerica nandEurop eanprod uctsare
specificstrainsofbifid obacteria andlactoba cillusthatmainlyresideintheintestineandare
July/August201 6
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special isedfordige stingmilk.Therefore,theyaremai nlyusedin foodprobioticsupplementsbut
theymightnotbeeffectiveintopica lprobioticssincetheskinfloraisdifferentfromthatofthegut.
Thereisnodou btthatprobioticsaretrend yandproofofthisisthesuccessoftwobrand s,theSouth
AfricanESSEandtheNorthAmeri canMotherDirt,which goonestepfurtherbymarketin gproducts
containi nglivepro biotics.CurrentlyESSEmarketstwooilbasedproductsSensitiveserumand
Probioticseru mcontaining livemicroorganismsthathavebeeninactivatedbyfreezedryingand
stabilise dbyencapsu lation.Theprobioticbacteriaareactivatedwhentheycomeincontactwith
skinmoisture.Thecompa nyisdevelo pingane wtechnolo gythatwillallowESSEtostabiliselive
microorga nismsinwaterbasedcosmeticproductsandanewlaunchisexpectedbyJuly2017.
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... It has also been reported that probiotic cell lysates may contain hyaluronic acid, sphingomyelinase, lipotechoic acid, exopolysaccharides, peptidoglycan, lactic acid, acetic acid and/or diacetyl, which provide broad biologic activity that can be harnessed to provide skin benefits such as improving atopic eczema, atopic dermatitis, healing of burn and scars, skin-rejuvenating properties, improving skin innate immunity and protecting against photodamage (Kober & Bowe, 2015;Lew & Liong, 2013). According to this, many studies and patents have been published on the use of probiotics extracts to development of personal care products including oral, underarm (deodorants and antiperspirants) and skin products (Callewaert, Lambert, & van de Wiele, 2017;Coronado-Robles, 2016;Holz et al., 2017;Huang & Tang, 2015;O'neill & McBain, 2015;Ouwehand, Lahtinen, & Tiihonen, 2016). ...
Background: It has been recognized that a number of mechanisms mediating the health benefits of beneficial bacterial cells do require viability. However, new terms such as paraprobiotic or postbiotic have emerged to denote that non-viable microbial cells, microbial fractions, or cell lysates might also offer physiological benefits to the host by providing additional bioactivity. Scope and approach: This review provides an overview of the postbiotic concept, evidence of their health benefits and possible signaling pathways involved in their protective effects, as well as perspectives for applications in foods and pharmaceuticals. Key findings and conclusions: Postbiotics refers to soluble factors (products or metabolic byproducts), secreted by live bacteria, or released after bacterial lysis, such as enzymes, peptides, teichoic acids, peptidoglycan-derived muropeptides, polysaccharides, cell surface proteins, and organic acids. These postbiotics have drawn attention because of their clear chemical structure, safety dose parameters, long shelf life and the content of various signaling molecules which may have anti-inflammatory, immunomodulatory, anti-obesogenic, antihypertensive, hypocholesterolemic, anti-proliferative, and antioxidant activities. These properties suggest that postbiotics may contribute, to the improvement of host health by improving specific physiological functions, even though the exact mechanisms have not been entirely elucidated.
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