Probiotics - promising cosmetic ingredient or marketing tool?

Abstract

Fermented beauty products rich in nutrients and other ingredients such as vitamins, antioxidants, probiotics, Omega-3 fatty acids and beneficial enzymes, although trendy, are not new. However, what makes probiotic breaking news in cosmetics is the way that the microorganisms are now being added to formulations which has a direct impact on product positioning in the market.
The long-established Crème de la Mer owned by Estée Lauder has been using fermented sea kelp in its formulations for decades, and premium brands such as Murad and SK-II from Procter & Gamble, Sulwashoo from the South Korean cosmetics giant AmorePacific and SU:M37 from LG Household & Healthcare, have been marketing products containing fermented and probiotic ingredients for some years. Brands such as Oskias in the UK and Tula in the US also market products containing fermented probiotic ingredients........

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P.1012/COSMETICS
Probioticspromisingcosmeticingredientormarketingtool?
Fermentedbea utyproductsrichinnu trientsandotherin gredie ntssuchasvitamins,antioxi dants,
probio tics,Omega3fattyacidsandbene ficialenzyme s,althoughtrend y,arenotnew.Howeve r,
whatmakesprob ioticbreaki ngnewsin cosmeticsisthewaythatthemicroorga nismsarenow being
added toformulationswhi chhasadirectimpa ctonproductpositio ningin themarket.
Thelonge stablishe dCrèmedelaMerownedbyEstéeLauderhasbeenusingfermentedseakelp
initsformulation sfordecades,andpre miumbrand ssuchasMuradand SKIIfromProcter&
Gamble,Sulwa shoofromtheSouthKorea ncosmeticsgian tAmorePacificandSU:M37 fromLG
Household&Healthcare,havebeenmarketingproductscontainingfermentedandprobiotic
ingred ientsforsomeyears.Brandssuch asOskiasintheUKandTulaintheUSal somarket
productscontai ningfermen tedprobio ticingredients.
PROBIOTICCOSMETICSONTHERISE
Manycosmeticcompa niesareno waddin gprobioticstoantiagingcreamsandproductsspecially
design edforsensitiveskin .Whiletheterm'probiotic'iswellestablish edinfood,whe reprobio tics
areconsid eredaslive microorganismsabletogrowandformacolonythatcanhaveabenefici al
effect,incosmetics(aselfregulatedindustry)thereisnostandardiseddefinitio nofprobiotics.This
makesitvirtuallyimp ossibleforconsumerstounderstan dwhattoexpectfromaproductcarryin gthe
probio ticlabel.
Therearetechni calbarrie rstoincorporateli veprobioticsintoconventionalskincareprodu ctswitha
reasona bleshel flife.
Mostproductscontain alargeperce ntageofwater,andpreserva tivesarerequi redtoprevent
spoila geand,asaresul t,productsonthemarketgenera llydonotcontai nlivemicroo rganisms.
Howeve r,mainstreambrandssuchasCl iniquewithitsRednessSolutionslinecontaining
Lactobaci llusFermenthave founda"smart"waytohandle thisproblembyad dingpro biotic
ingred ientswhich arenotaliveorviabletoformcoloniestotheformulationattheend ofthe
manufacturin gprocess.
Thisisacheapsol utionthatdoesno trequireanyrea lchange inthepreservative systemorinthe
restoftheproduct.Thespeciesmostcommonl yfoundinAmerica nandEurop eanprod uctsare
specificstrainsofbifid obacteria andlactoba cillusthatmainlyresideintheintestineandare
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July/August201 6
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special isedfordige stingmilk.Therefore,theyaremai nlyusedin foodprobioticsupplementsbut
theymightnotbeeffectiveintopica lprobioticssincetheskinfloraisdifferentfromthatofthegut.
GAMECHANGERCOMPANIES
Thereisnodou btthatprobioticsaretrend yandproofofthisisthesuccessoftwobrand s,theSouth
AfricanESSEandtheNorthAmeri canMotherDirt,which goonestepfurtherbymarketin gproducts
containi nglivepro biotics.CurrentlyESSEmarketstwooilbasedproductsSensitiveserumand
Probioticseru mcontaining livemicroorganismsthathavebeeninactivatedbyfreezedryingand
stabilise dbyencapsu lation.Theprobioticbacteriaareactivatedwhentheycomeincontactwith
skinmoisture.Thecompa nyisdevelo pingane wtechnolo gythatwillallowESSEtostabiliselive
microorga nismsinwaterbasedcosmeticproductsandanewlaunchisexpectedbyJuly2017.
Asacompany,ESSEwillremainfocusedonskincarebut...Inordertocontinuereadingthisarticle
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