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Abstract

Despite abundant archaeological, pictorial and textual evidence of ancient Egyptian life and death, we have little detailed information about the staple diet of most of the population. Now experimental work by a postdoctoral Wellcome Research Fellow in Bioarchaeology at the Institute is revealing how the ancient Egyptians made their daily bread.

A new look at old bread:
ancient Egyptian baking
Delwen Samuel

 

        
        

T   

   
    
  

     


 
     

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  
     
 


   
    

     



   
   
   
    
   
     

 
    
     

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     


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

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

 
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 
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      
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     
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     
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     
      
     
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       
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 1   

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   
2       
  
 

DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5334/ai.0310
3  
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 
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      
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    
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      
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     
   
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    
      

 

   
      
     
    
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  
     

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      

   
   
      
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  
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      
     
 
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    

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    
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      
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     
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      
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      
     
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   
    
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    
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 5   
 


     

     
    

 


  
     

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    
  
    


  
  

 6 

 
     
 
    


 
 
     

  
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     
      



    

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    


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
     
     
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 7  
     
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   
  
  
     
  
 
   


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   
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    
      

      

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     
     
   

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
     
   
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      

    
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 
   
  
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     
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 
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     
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   
   
     

   
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    

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    
     
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     

   
     

     
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



   
      

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      
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   
    

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 
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 
        
    

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 
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
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 
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 
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  
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
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 
 

... Dampening of spikelets softens the chaff and, during pounding, facilitates the release of the grain and removal (literally shredding) of the chaff through rubbing of the spikelets against each other and the dehusking device, without causing (excessive) damage to the grains. Experimental work and archaeobotanical evidence suggest that mortars and pestles could have been used in this procedure [50,51]. Soaking in water before dehusking, followed by either sun-drying or artificial drying or roasting in ovens, is also attested ethnographically [52] and references therein]. ...
... Soaking emmer spikelets would thus have served a dual purpose, namely, to facilitate the dehusking process and to induce germination. Analysis of the morphology of archaeological sprouted emmer grains from the New Kingdom site at Amarna in Egypt has shown that the chaff had been in place during the germination [50,51]. ...
... The soaking water would have been drained off after some time and the spikelets left wet. If the length of sprouts observed on some germinated ancient grains can be used as an indicator, then emmer grains may have sprouted within six to eight days [50][51][52][53]. Once free of chaff, the sprouted emmer grains at Oldenburg LA 77 would have been processed further before cooking, possibly by being crushed or ground, which would account for the presence of grain fragments embedded in otherwise featureless residue matrices in some of the food residues (OLD 01, 04, 11 and 12). ...
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An integrated botanical and chemical approach is used to study surface residues on Funnel Beaker ceramics from the site of Oldenburg LA 77, in northern Germany. Organic residues were discovered adhering to fragments of thick-walled, undecorated ceramic vessels (n = 19) and ceramic discs (n = 2). The surface residues were studied using scanning electron microscopy (SEM), to examine remains of cereals and other plant tissues that survived food preparation and cooking, and using attenuated total reflectance Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (ATR–FTIR) and direct time-resolved mass spectrometry (DTMS), to chemically identify specific food components. The SEM results show a reoccurring presence of cereal grain (emmer and barley) and one case of co-occurrence of emmer and fat-hen seeds. The SEM evidence for the use of sprouted emmer grain and milk-ripe barley from the Oldenburg residues greatly enhances our understanding of Neolithic foodways in northwestern Europe. The ATR-FTIR results showed that roughly a third of the surface residues contain traces of the original foods prepared or processed and DTMS results confirm that most of the residues primarily contain polysaccharides and a minimal amount of plant protein and that they lack lipids. Only one residue presents minor indications for a (partly) animal origin. The ceramic vessels were thus used almost exclusively for the processing or cooking of cereal grains. This study offers an intimate view of the cuisine and cooking practices (and in some cases their seasonal timing) in an early agricultural village located in a marginal farming region on the south coast of the Baltic Sea.
... Le pain sec peut être moulu et mélangé à de la farine fraîche pour produire du pain nouveau (Seibel 1987 ;Neufeld 1907). Du pain concassé riche en amidon peut même être utilisé pour l'obtention d'une bière à faible teneur en alcool de type kvas (Samuel 2000 ;Zarnkow et al. 2006 ;Rosenstock, Scheibner 2017). Après brassage, le dépôt peut être à son tour utilisé comme levain (Samuel 1996b ;Ktenioudaki et al. 2015). ...
... Plus récemment, les préparations alimentaires issues de produits végétaux, et en particulier les pâtes cuites, ont reçu la pleine attention des archéobotanistes (Stahl 1989 ;Fechner 1992 ;Samuel 2000 ;Hansson 2002 ;Währen 2002 ;Valamoti 2002 ;Valamoti et al. 2008 ;Wollstonecroft et al. 2008 ;Balossi Restelli, Mori 2014 ;Heiss 2014 ;Kubiak-Martens et al. 2015 ;Antolín et al. 2016 ;Popova 2016 ;Heiss et al. 2017 ;Arranz-Otaegui et al. 2018 ;Primavera et al. 2019). En France également, des recherches au moyen d'outils analytiques plus performants ont été menées sur des séries de pains de différentes périodes, afin de mieux cerner les ingrédients et les pratiques boulangères (Lannoy et al. 2002 ;Marinval dir. ...
Article
Parmi les mobiliers archéologiques figurent régulièrement des fragments de matière organique carbonisée (MOC), fréquemment assimilables à des produits végétaux transformés. Les plus grands d’entre eux laissent encore deviner leur forme d’origine, et ils peuvent être identifiés comme des artéfacts. Dans les cas où l’analyse les désigne comme des mets élaborés, le potentiel informatif de ces éléments paniformes (EPF) – potentiellement des pâtes, pains, pains plats, galettes, gâteaux, biscuits, etc. – est considérable, même si leurs composantes ne sont plus visibles macroscopiquement. Ils sont en effet le reflet direct de pratiques alimentaires en contexte domestique, ou ils participent de rites en contexte cultuel. Encore sous-exploités dans la démarche archéologique, ces EPF représentent en réalité des produits complexes, témoignant de savoir-faire culinaires dans un environnement culturel précis. Plusieurs démarches analytiques permettent d’identifier la composition de ces préparations alimentaires et de préciser certaines étapes de leur apprêt. Les grains moulus de céréales sont identifiés par l’histologie du son, en observant notamment la morphologie de certaines couches de cellules. Les pratiques boulangères sont approchées par microtomographie aux rayons X, de manière non intrusive, en observant l’aspect des pâtes, révélateur de leur façonnage (pétrissage, levée, pliage, formation d’une croûte, cuisson dans un moule, etc.). Par observation au microscope électronique à balayage, on relève aussi la présence d’impuretés ou l’adjonction d’ingrédients. L’étude des farines et des modes de préparation permet de voir en quoi les standards de qualité évoluent sur le temps long, en relation avec les caractéristiques des céréales. À titre d’illustration, les résultats des analyses de six préparations alimentaires à base de céréales, datées entre le iie s. av. J.-C. et le vie s. apr. J.-C., sont présentés dans cet article.
... Researchers have experimented with brewing beer and baking bread using information gleaned from textual and ethnographic sources, material culture, and in situ archaeological remains. Analysis of residues found in storage jars and drinking vessels from archaeological contexts has even made it possible to identify specifi c ingredients in ancient beers and fermented beverages, allowing for their re-creation (e.g., Arthur 2012;Dineley 2011;Goulder 2010;Lehner 1994Lehner , 1997McGovern 2007;Samuel 1999Samuel , 2010. Such studies provide much-needed understanding of how these processes worked-a counterpoint to the tendency of many archaeologists to "add nutrition and stir" without considering the physical, chemical, material, and sensory processes that are involved (Metheny 2012). ...
... Researchers have experimented with Philistine pebble hearth constructions to determine the heating properties of this type of hearth, but have also used this study as the basis for investigating identity formation and boundary maintenance through a comparison of contemporary Iron Age hearth-building methods (e.g., Gur-Arieh et al. 2012;Maeir, Hitchcock, and Horwitz 2013). Researchers who focus on the use of beer and bread as worker rations in early complex societies have evaluated nutritional value and caloric content, shelf life, ease of distribution or storage, and the suitability of ancient grains like emmer or barley for bread or beer manufacture (Lehner 1994(Lehner , 1997Samuel 1999Samuel , 2010. Goulder (2010) created replicas of a mass-produced ceramic vessel, the bevel-rim bowl, which is found at numerous fourth-millennium BC sites in Mesopotamia, in order to test a range of hypotheses regarding its function. ...
... Subsequently, over the last two decades, numerous in-depth tissue-based analyses of prehistoric and ancient breads have been published. Deserving special mention are Samuel's (1994Samuel's ( , 1999Samuel's ( , 2000 investigations of desiccated Egyptian bread from tombs in the New Kingdom (ca. 1550Kingdom (ca. ...
... Subsequently, over the last two decades, numerous in-depth tissue-based analyses of prehistoric and ancient breads have been published. Deserving special mention are Samuel's (1994Samuel's ( , 1999Samuel's ( , 2000 investigations of desiccated Egyptian bread from tombs in the New Kingdom (ca. 1550Kingdom (ca. ...
... In ancient Egypt food could be cooked by stewing, baking, boiling, grilling, frying, or roasting, all of which require the use of fire. Bread ovens and cereal processing tools have been excavated in houses, estates, temples, and, recently, in a complex associated with the Giza pyramids (Samuel, 1999). ...
Article
Ancient Egyptians were blessed by the vast amount of natural resources and an amble climate which enabled them to establish their civilization. Nature was a major source in ancient Egyptian theology and art. It is often said that for thousands of years Egyptians lived in absolute harmony with their environment, using its resources for food, medicine, building and crafts. The present article aimed to research how far Egyptians were successful in managing their environment in a sustainable way that is in a manner which did not prevent contemporary or future generations from pursuing the same lifestyles.
... barquettes, round loaves, etc.). Later, Samuel (2000) carried out investigations of desiccated Egyptian bread from tombs in the New Kingdom (ca. 1550-1070 BC) which resulted in significant insights into ancient bread and beer making. ...
... In ancient Egypt food could be cooked by stewing, baking, boiling, grilling, frying, or roasting, all of which require the use of fire. Bread ovens and cereal processing tools have been excavated in houses, estates, temples, and, recently, in a complex associated with the Giza pyramids (Samuel, 1999). ...
... Since the 1980s, research into archaeological bread remains has seen a revival beginning with the first archaeobotanical applications of cereal bran identification in archaeobotany [46][47][48]. Delwen Samuel's work [3,27,[49][50][51][52] must of course be mentioned in which she extensively explored the chaîne opératoire of Ancient Egyptian bread-making. Likewise, Ann-Marie Hansson's contributions linking the archaeobotanical analysis of Viking Age cereal preparations [22,31,32,34,53] to historical and ethnographical accounts must be mentioned as a milestone in bread research. ...
Article
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The site of Parkhaus Opéra is located on the north-eastern shore of Lake Zürich (Switzerland) and was documented during a rescue excavation in 2010 and 2011 by the Office for Urbanism, City of Zürich. Two charred bread-like objects were found in late Neolithic Layer 13 of the pile-dwelling, and are investigated using a novel set of analyses for cereal-based foodstuffs. Tissue remains of barley and wheat were identified, as well as a schizocarp of celery (cf. Apium graveolens), providing the first evidence for the use of bread condiments in the Neolithic. Cereal particle sizes were recorded and used to draw conclusions regarding milling and sieving of the raw material. Gas bubbles in the charred objects were measured in order to evaluate possible leavening of the dough. The outcomes of this research significantly advance the understanding of the production traits of cereal-based food during the Neolithic. The analytical techniques proposed by this study open up new possibilities for systematic and consistent investigations of cereal-based archaeological foodstuffs.
Article
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This article aims to raise a new sensibility towards the macro morphological aspects of food remains recovered in archaeological contexts. Identifying such remains in early excavation phases is crucial. Studying foodstuffs in archaeological contexts allows not only to detect the ingredients selected in the past but also to deepen our understanding of cultural identity and traditions. As study cases, some bread remains were selected. By analysing the bread fragments from Valsgärde and Gnista (Uppsala County, Sweden), preliminary experiments were elaborated, and the results were used as reference material for archaeological bread. Three charring experiments were set outdoors to simulate possible carbonising environments: with oxygen, poor-oxygen, and oxygen-free. Only by familiarising ourselves with the appearance of these fragments would it be possible to do more detailed analyses.
Chapter
The history of sourdough and related baked goods follows the entire arc of the development of human civilization, from the beginning of agriculture to the present. Sourdough bread and other sourdough baked goods made from cereals are examples of foods that summarize different types of knowledge, from agricultural practices and technological processes through to cultural heritage. Bread is closely linked to human subsistence in temperate climates and intimately connected to tradition, the practices of civil society, and religion. Christian prayer says, “Give us this day our daily bread” and the Gospels report that Jesus, breaking bread at the Last Supper, gave it to the Apostles to eat, saying, “This is my body given as a sacrifice for you.” Many languages also retain expressions that recall the close bond between life and bread: “to earn his bread” and “remove bread from his mouth” are just some of the most common idioms, not to mention the etymology of words in current use. For example “companio,” a word first used in late Latin or early French, is derived from cum panis, which means someone with whom you share your bread. In turn, “companio” was used in 2020 to name a genus of lactobacilli, Companilactobacillus, which frequently occurs in sourdoughs [1]. The word “lord” is derived from the Old English vocabulary hlaford, which translates as guardian of the bread [2]. The symbolic assimilation between bread and life is not just a template that has its heritage in the collective unconscious, but it is probably a precipitate of the history of culture and traditions. Throughout development of human civilization, (sourdough) bread was preferred over unleavened cereal products, supporting the hypothesis of a precise symbolism between the idea of elaborate and stylish, and that of sourdough. The transformation of raw cereals by fermentation and leavening was likely necessary to allow human societies to transition from a hunter-gatherer lifestyle to agricultural societies [3] but also produced an artifact in the sense of “made art.” Besides symbolism, sourdough bread has acquired a central social position over time. Bread, and especially sourdough bread, has become central in the diet of peasant societies. This suggests that the rural population empirically perceived sensory and nutritional transformations, which are also implemented through sourdough fermentation. In other words, the eating of bread, and especially of sourdough bread, was often a choice of civilization.KeywordsBread qualityBread doughBread makingBread productionSourdough fermentation
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