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Nearshore Bars and Shore-Zone Dynamics.
Abstract
Boczar-Karakiewicz, B. B., Jackson. L. A., Forbes. D. L., Kohlhase, S. & Naguszewski, A
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Analogue wave records and associated wave spectra from field measurements of wave transformation across two nearshore bar systems in Georgian Bay, Ontario, show considerable growth of energy in the higher harmonics; in addition, there appears to be a regular spatial pattern of energy transfer between the peak frequency and the first higher harmonics with a length dimension equal to the spacing between the bars. The characteristic peak period of moderate and severe storm waves affecting the two beaches (4.0 and 7.0 s) and the mean nearshore slopes (0.005 and 0.01) are used as input to a mathematical model which describes the non-linear evolution of a shallow water wave, and the interaction between the first and second harmonics. In the model, the mass transport velocities associated with the primary wave and the second harmonic are used to calculate net sediment flux across a two-dimensional profile. Model predictions of bar number and spacing, starting with an initially planar slope, correlate well with the field measurements, for the two sets of wave conditions and mean slopes; in addition the model is able to predict profile changes reflecting seasonal changes in wave climate.