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Efficacy and Tolerability of a Skin Brightening/Anti-Aging Cosmeceutical Containing Retinol 0.5%, Niacinamide, Hexylresorcinol, and Resveratrol
Abstract
Consumers are increasingly interested in over-the-counter skin care products that can improve the appearance of photodamaged and aging skin. This 10-week, open-label, single- center study enrolled 25 subjects with mild to moderate hyperpigmentation and other clinical stigmata of cutaneous aging including fine lines, sallowness, lack of clarity, and wrinkling. Their mean age was 53.4±7.7 years. The test product contained retinol 0.5% in combination with niacinamide 4.4%, resveratrol 1%, and hexylresorcinol 1.1% in a moisturizing base. Subjects were provided a skin care regimen including a cleanser, hydrating serum, moisturizer, and an SPF 30 sunscreen for daily use. The test product was applied only at night.
The use of this skin brightening/anti-aging cosmeceutical was found to provide statistically significant improvements in all efficacy endpoints by study end. Fine lines, radiance, and smoothness were significantly improved as early as week 2 ( P <.001). By week 4, hyperpigmentation, overall skin clarity, evenness of skin tone, and wrinkles showed statistically significant improvement compared to baseline. Mild retinoid dermatitis including flaking and redness occurred early in the study as reflected by tolerability scores. By week 10, subjects reported no stinging, itching, dryness, or tingling.
The results of this open-label clinical study suggest that a topical cream containing retinol 0.5% in combination with niacinamide, resveratrol, and hexylresorcinol is efficacious and tolerable for skin brightening/anti-aging when used with a complementary skin care regimen including SPF 30 sun protection.
J Drugs Dermatol. 2016;15(7):863-868.
... An effective combination of retinoid and AHA-based eye cream was studied with a regular nighttime application for 12 weeks which revealed remarkable advancement in the reduction of darkness and puffiness of the eyes along with reduced lines and wrinkles in the under-eye region [85]. Farris et al. [87], tested a topical cream containing 0.5% retinol along with 4.4% niacinamide, 1% resveratrol, and 1.1% hexylresorcinol all put together in a nourishing moisturizer base [88]. This study was carried out over a period of 10 weeks with 25 subjects who had a moderate number of fine lines, wrinkles, and cutaneous hyperpigmentation [87]. ...
... Farris et al. [87], tested a topical cream containing 0.5% retinol along with 4.4% niacinamide, 1% resveratrol, and 1.1% hexylresorcinol all put together in a nourishing moisturizer base [88]. This study was carried out over a period of 10 weeks with 25 subjects who had a moderate number of fine lines, wrinkles, and cutaneous hyperpigmentation [87]. The usage of antioxidants in retinol-based creams provides a synergistic effect in anti-aging therapy. ...
... Schlessinger et al. [92], stated that hexylresorcinol is an efficient ingredient in anti-aging therapy for the skin. In conclusion, a combination topical cream evaluated by Farris et al. [87], demonstrates efficient anti-aging activity and helps in reducing hyperpigmentation and cohesively increasing the evenness of the skin. Piérard-Franchimont et al. [93], carried out controlled clinical trials with retinol formulations which demonstrated a significant depletion in fine lines after 12 weeks of application with reduced levels of MMP. ...
Millions of people around the world fall within the age group of 35 and above; having fluctuating lifestyles, increased exposure to blue light, and a faster-depleting ozone layer that enhances entry of UVA and UVB rays in the skin which tends to age faster leading into collagen degradation that results in fine lines and decreased cell senescence. The goal of skin rejuvenation is to have healthy skin. Cosmeceuticals incorporating retinoids have been increasingly used over the past few years to promote collagen synthesis and rejuvenate the skin. Photo-induced and chronological aging processes are decelerated with retinoid application that endorses skin elasticity by free radical neutralization, new cell growth, and blood vessel promotion within the skin to help fight pigmentation and reduce fine lines. Retinoids are commercially available as creams and serums for topical application. Nanotechnology is used in the development of retinoids to counteract adverse reactions like skin irritation and purging to improve its stability, efficacy, and acceptability. Emerging studies on retinoids include formulating them within liposomes, solid lipid nanoparticles, nano-emulgels, and hydrogels. This review details understanding the aging process, the mechanism of action of retinoids to counterfeit aging, and the potential use of nanotechnological delivery in cosmeceuticals.
... 2% gold silk sericin, 5% nicotinamide, 0.1% signaline TM (diacylglycerol and fatty alcohols) [137] An open-label, single-center study 25 0.5% retinol, 4.4% nicotinamide, 1% resveratrol, and 1.1% hexylresorcinol Treatment at night for 10 weeks. ...
... Several other clinical trials have evaluated the efficacy of cosmetics containing nicotinamide and several other active ingredients (silk sericin, diacylglycerol, fatty alcohols, retinol, resveratrol, hexylresorcinol, and/or stem cell culture medium) [136][137][138]. These products showed a wrinkle improvement effect in common, and certain products were evaluated to have improvement effects on skin moisture, skin barrier, elasticity, surface morphology, skin clarity, and/or pigmentation [136][137][138]. ...
... Several other clinical trials have evaluated the efficacy of cosmetics containing nicotinamide and several other active ingredients (silk sericin, diacylglycerol, fatty alcohols, retinol, resveratrol, hexylresorcinol, and/or stem cell culture medium) [136][137][138]. These products showed a wrinkle improvement effect in common, and certain products were evaluated to have improvement effects on skin moisture, skin barrier, elasticity, surface morphology, skin clarity, and/or pigmentation [136][137][138]. Again, it is difficult to estimate the contribution of nicotinamide to the clinical trial results obtained using the combination formulation. ...
Vitamin B3 (nicotinic acid, niacin) deficiency causes the systemic disease pellagra, which leads to dermatitis, diarrhea, dementia, and possibly death depending on its severity and duration. Vitamin B3 is used in the synthesis of the NAD+ family of coenzymes, contributing to cellular energy metabolism and defense systems. Although nicotinamide (niacinamide) is primarily used as a nutritional supplement for vitamin B3, its pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical uses have been extensively explored. In this review, we discuss the biological activities and cosmeceutical properties of nicotinamide in consideration of its metabolic pathways. Supplementation of nicotinamide restores cellular NAD+ pool and mitochondrial energetics, attenuates oxidative stress and inflammatory response, enhances extracellular matrix and skin barrier, and inhibits the pigmentation process in the skin. Topical treatment of nicotinamide, alone or in combination with other active ingredients, reduces the progression of skin aging and hyperpigmentation in clinical trials. Topically applied nicotinamide is well tolerated by the skin. Currently, there is no convincing evidence that nicotinamide has specific molecular targets for controlling skin aging and pigmentation. This substance is presumed to contribute to maintaining skin homeostasis by regulating the redox status of cells along with various metabolites produced from it. Thus, it is suggested that nicotinamide will be useful as a cosmeceutical ingredient to attenuate skin aging and hyperpigmentation, especially in the elderly or patients with reduced NAD+ pool in the skin due to internal or external stressors.
... 4 A growing number of studies have demonstrated the role of retinol in improving signs of cutaneous ageing. [5][6][7][8][9] An open-label, 10-week study found significant improvements of fine lines and wrinkles with the use of a 0.5% retinol topical cream in combination with niacinamide, resveratrol and hexylresorcinol. 6 Another study conducted on an area of sun-protected skin with 0.4% topical retinol found significant antiageing effects through the epidermal keratinocytes, dermal endothelial cells and fibroblasts. ...
... [5][6][7][8][9] An open-label, 10-week study found significant improvements of fine lines and wrinkles with the use of a 0.5% retinol topical cream in combination with niacinamide, resveratrol and hexylresorcinol. 6 Another study conducted on an area of sun-protected skin with 0.4% topical retinol found significant antiageing effects through the epidermal keratinocytes, dermal endothelial cells and fibroblasts. 7 Furthermore, there has been emerging studies reporting Bakuchiol, a phytochemical deriving from the plant Psoralea corylfolia, may serve as an alternative to retinol, demonstrating comparable efficacy in improving photoaging with greater tolerability. ...
Background
Retinoids, such as retinol, are widely investigated and utilized in skin care products as a treatment for photoaging but their use is limited by tolerability. Adapinoid (oleyl adapalenate, OA) is a novel third generation retinoid that is a pro‐drug of adapalene, but there is little research on its effects on photoaging or its tolerability.
Objectives
The purpose of this study is to compare the effects and tolerability of OA 0.5% to retinol 0.5% cream regarding visible signs of facial photoaging including facial wrinkles, fine lines and pigmentation.
Methods
In this 12‐week, double‐blind, randomized clinical trial, 48 eligible participants were recruited and enroled from the Greater Sacramento region. The study consisted of a baseline and follow‐up visits at weeks 4, 8 and 12. Participants were randomized to receive either topical OA 0.5% or retinol 0.5% for 12 weeks. The primary outcome was changes in the appearance of wrinkle severity at 12 weeks. Secondary outcome measures include changes in erythema, skin pigmentation, skin hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
Results
OA improved wrinkle severity by 9.45% (p < 0.0001) at week 12, whereas retinol improved wrinkle severity by 4.11% (p < 0.001) compared to baseline. When comparing the two treatment groups at week 12, the OA group improved significantly more than the retinol group (p = 0.001). OA decreased pigment intensity at week 12 by 3.88% (p < 0.0001), whereas retinol decreased pigment intensity by 3.15% (p < 0.03) compared to baseline. OA‐based improvement in pigment intensity at week 12 was not significantly different from retinol (p = 0.62). OA reduced facial erythema by 13.39% (p < 0.05) at week 12, whereas the retinol group did not have a significant change. OA use led to a 14.92% decrease in TEWL by week 12 (p = 0.07), whereas the retinol group had no significant change. OA was better tolerated than retinol when assessed at all follow‐up visits.
Conclusions
OA 0.5% is superior to retinol 0.5% in improving wrinkle severity and similar in improvement of pigment intensity. OA is better tolerated than retinol. Overall, the use of OA as a precursor to adapalene may be an effective method to improving the tolerability of retinoids while maintaining efficacy.
Trial Registration
This study was registered on www.clinicaltrials.gov (NCT05778760).
... To evaluate this possibility, we compared the effect of three well-known antioxidant compounds in medaka embryos and HaCat culture, as this last model is a typical platform used for compound screening [38][39][40]. The selected antioxidant compounds were vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin A (retinoic acid), and resveratrol [41][42][43][44][45]. For each compound, two non-toxic concentrations (5 and 50 µM) were chosen after performing a viability assay in medaka embryos and MTT assay in HaCat cells. ...
... Therefore, we wanted to compare the two more economic models as platforms for protective molecules against sunlight irradiation. For this reason, HaCat cells and medaka embryos were treated with the same concentrations of three well-characterized antioxidants [41][42][43][44][45], before UVA and HEV exposure. In both models, irradiations generated ROS increase, being higher in HaCat cells than in medaka embryos. ...
Continuous overexposure to sunlight increases its harmful effects on the skin. For this reason, there is a growing need to characterize economic models more representative of the negative effects and counteracting responses that irradiation causes on human skin. These models will serve for the screening of protective compounds against damage caused by ultraviolet (UV) and high energy visible light (HEV). Therefore, two common in vitro models employed for sunlight irradiation studies, namely human keratinocyte HaCat culture and reconstructed human epidermis (RHE), were compared with the medaka fish embryo model, traditionally used in other scientific disciplines. Using suberythemal doses of UVA and HEV to determine the level of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) generation and thymine dimers formed by UVB, we show that medaka embryo responds with a lower damage level, more comparable to human skin, than the other two models, probably due to the protective mechanisms that work in a complete organism. In the same way, the protective effects of antioxidant compounds have the greatest effect on medaka embryos. Taken together, these findings suggest that medaka embryos would be a good alternative in vitro model for sunlight effect studies, and for the screening of molecules with counteracting capacity against the damage caused by UV and HEV.
... Its uses in medicine and commercial products are wide-ranging. Stabilized forms (usually retinyl acetate or palmitate) are used to enrich foods in Vitamin A. Topical retinol and other retinoids are used in pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations to treat acne and signs of photodamaged skin [1][2][3][4]. Retinoid preparations must be protected from light, refrigerated, and protected with an antioxidant preservative, as exposure to light and oxygen leads to degradation into a variety of potentially harmful compounds, including reactive oxygen species [5][6][7]. A substantial amount of research has focused on development of delivery vehicles for retinol, including liposomes, chitosan, pectin, and zein particles [8][9][10][11][12][13][14][15][16][17]. ...
Retinol shows complex photophysical properties that make it potentially useful as an exogenous or endogenous probe of membrane microenvironment, but it has not been fully explored. In this study, we use bulk fluorescence lifetime measurements and fluorescence lifetime imaging microscopy (FLIM) to examine the stability of retinol in phosphatidylcholine (PC) multilamellar and unilamellar vesicles with and without cholesterol. We find that both light and exposure to ambient temperature and oxygen contribute to retinol degradation, with the addition of an antioxidant such as butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) essential to provide stability, especially in the absence of cholesterol. With exposure to ultraviolet light to excite its native fluorescence, retinol degrades rapidly and can photosensitize vesicles. Degradation can be measured by a decrease in fluorescence lifetime. In POPC vesicles without cholesterol, BHT leads to initially higher lifetimes compared with no BHT, but it increases the rate of photodegradation. The presence of 10 mol % cholesterol protects against this effect, and vesicles with 20 mol % cholesterol show longer lifetimes without BHT under all conditions. Because of its environmental sensitivity, retinol is interesting as a FLIM probe, but careful controls are needed to avoid degradation, and additional work is needed to optimize liposomes for food and cosmetic applications.
... Refs. [7][8][9][10]. SCF, through the activation of the peroxisome proliferator-activated gamma receptor (PPARy). ...
Melasma is a very common disease that is manifested by increased skin pigmentation mostly in the face but also in the décolleté, neck, and arms. It is presented as irregular, light to dark brown spots, placed on the forehead. Cheek bones, mandible, and supralabial region. It usually affects women in higher phototypes (III−V), more commonly at a rate of nine women: one man. Melasma is a multifactorial disease, and we know that some conditions, such as pregnancy, contraceptives, thyroid diseases, hormone replacement, and solar exposure, could be a trigger to develop this illness. Despite not being a serious condition, melasma causes discomfort for those who have it, and it could compromise the patient’s quality of life. The goal of this chapter is to understand the pathogenic mechanism of melasma as well as revise the treatments of this disorder.
... In light of these findings, the aim of this study is to assess how topical hexylresorcinol may compare to the use of hydroquinone in improvement in the appearance of ultraviolet light induced pigment on the face and dorsal hands, which are both sites that frequently undergo ultraviolet related damage. A secondary objective of this study was to assess the impact of topical hexylresorcinol on fine lines and wrinkles since previous studies with hexyresorcinol containing creams have been shown to improve fine lines [18,19]. ...
Dyspigmentation is a common cosmetic concern in dermatology. Currently, the first line topical medication in the United States is hydroquinone. Hydroquinone use is associated with potential safety concerns including cytotoxicity to melanocytes, systemic absorption, metabolism in distant organs, and production of potentially carcinogenic metabolites. Hexylresorcinol is an ingredient that has been used in food preservation and as antiseptic has been shown to inhibit tyrosinase in vitro and has been studied as a novel skin-lightening agent. To perform a double-blind randomized split-body investigation of comparison on topical hexylresorcinol and hydroquinone on face and hands to assess for change in the appearance of skin tone and pigmentation. Thirty-two healthy female participants ages 35–65 (50.93 ± 7.37) years old with skin type I–IV were randomized to using either topical 1% hexylresorcinol or 2% hydroquinone on the left or right side of the face and corresponding hand over 12 weeks. The topical preparation was applied twice a day to assigned areas. Standardized photos were taken of the face and colorimetric measurements were taken of both sides of the forehead, cheeks and each hand at baseline (Day 0), week 4, and week 12. Of the 32 participants, 3 were lost to follow-up and the remaining were included in the final analysis. Pigmentation measured by colorimeter and clinical grading were significantly decreased at 4 and 12 weeks relative to baseline with no difference between the HR and HQ groups. No adverse effects were noted with either intervention. Hexylresorcinol 1% is well-tolerated and equivalent to hydroquinone 2% in reducing the appearance of facial and hand pigment. Further studies with an expanded population and longer time course are warranted.
Registration No.: NCT04345094.
... Also, a moisturizing base containing 4.4% niacinamide + 0.5% retinol + 1% resveratrol + 11% hexylresorcinol improved hyperpigmentation by week 4 when compared to baseline in 25 subjects with mild-to-moderate hyperpigmentation. 29 Reports suggest its role in prevention of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH; Table 1). 30 ...
Hyperpigmentation is the most common complaint in the age group 40–45 years, seeking consultation for skin disorders. Hydroquinone is a commonly used depigmenting agent in clinical practice for treating hyperpigmentation. Prolonged use of hydroquinone has been associated with cancer risk and exogenous ochronosis. The CARES (The Coronavirus Aid, Relief, and Economic Security Act) Act of 2020 has instituted significant changes to hydroquinone containing OTC (over the counter) products, and consequently, many hydroquinone-based OTC products had to be withdrawn from the market. Henceforth, products containing hydroquinone would need US Food and Drug Administration approval via new drug application pathways for commercialization. Alternative treatment options to hydroquinone in clinical practice are reviewed in this paper with regard to their safety and efficacy vis a vis hydroquinone. Also, new potential treatment options such as thiamidol, Polypodium leucotomos, and glutathione are discussed. The review shows that these alternative depigmenting agents can be rationally combined to achieve desired treatment goals in the management of hyperpigmentation.
... Concurrent with TNF-α suppression, 4-hexylresorcinol also induced rapid epithelization and collagen regeneration in animals, compared to the control group. ese beneficial properties of hexylresorcinol have been successfully applied in many cosmetics products with antiaging and lightening effects [56,57]. ...
The investigation of alkylresorcinols has drawn an increasing interest recently. Alkylresorcinols (ARs) are natural chemical compounds synthesized by bacteria, fungi, sponges, and higher plants, possessing a lipophilic polyphenol structures and a myriad of biological properties. Human takes ARs as a component of a whole grain diet (from whole grain rye, wheat, and barley products), and thus, alkylresorcinols are frequently used as whole grain intake markers. Besides, ARs are considered as promising bioregulators of metabolic and immune processes, as well as adjuvant therapeutic agents for antimicrobial and anticancer treatment. In this review, we attempted to systematize the accumulated information concerning ARs origin, metabolism, biological properties, and their effect on human health.
... The discrepancies may be partially explained by multicomponent composition of the supplements in both studies. The same interpretation problem may arise from the study on topical formulation containing resveratrol, retinol, niacinamide, and hexylresorcinol [143]. Although the study confirmed effectiveness in combating numerous skin aging symptoms, it cannot attribute this effect directly to resveratrol. ...
Skin, as the outermost organ of the body, is constantly exposed to both intrinsic and extrinsic causative factors of aging. Intrinsic aging is related to compromised cellular proliferative capacity, and may be accelerated by harmful environmental influences with the greatest significance of ultraviolet radiation exposure, contributing not only to premature aging, but also to skin carcinogenesis. The overall skin cancer burden and steadily increasing global antiaging market provide an incentive for searching novel targets to improve skin resistance against external injury. Sirtuin 1, initially linked to extension of yeast and rodent lifespan, plays a key role in epigenetic modification of proteins, histones, and chromatin by which regulates the expression of genes implicated in the oxidative stress response and apoptosis. The spectrum of cellular pathways regulated by sirtuin 1 suggests its beneficial impact on skin aging. However, the data on its role in carcinogenesis remains controversial. The aim of this review was to discuss the relevance of sirtuin 1 in skin aging, in the context of intrinsic factors, related to genetic premature aging syndromes, as well as extrinsic modifiable ones, with the assessment of its future application. PubMed were searched from inception to 4 January 2021 for relevant papers with further search carried out on ClinicalTrials.gov. The systematic review included 46 eligible original articles. The evidence from numerous studies proves sirtuin 1 significance in both chronological and premature aging as well as its dual role in cancer development. Several botanical compounds hold the potential to improve skin aging symptoms.
... In parallel, levels of plasma derivatives of ROS dramatically declined, while skin ferric-reducing ability increased. In addition, topical applications of resveratrolcontaining products also improved aging-associated signs, such as skin wrinkles, stratum corneum hydration, and pigmentation, in aged humans [159]. But in one clinical trial in 30 subjects, oral supplement of product containing transresveratrol did not appreciably improve skin aging, despite reductions in cutaneous MDA content and elevations in SOD content [160]. ...
Protective role of the skin is against external insults and maintenance of electrolyte homeostasis of the body. Cutaneous dysfunction can account for the development of both cutaneous and systemic disorders. Thus, improvements in cutaneous functions can benefit a number of extracutaneous and cutaneous functions. Resveratrol, a natural ingredient, displays multiple benefits for various systems/organs, including the skin. The benefits of resveratrol for cutaneous functions include stimulation of keratinocyte differentiation and antimicrobial peptide expression, inhibition of keratinocyte proliferation and cutaneous inflammation, UV protection, anticancer, antiaging, and inhibition of melanogenesis. The mechanisms of action of resveratrol include activation of sirtuin 1 and nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2, and inhibition of mitogen-activated protein kinase signaling. Evidence suggests that topical resveratrol could be a valuable alternative not only for daily skin care, but also for the prevention and treatment of various cutaneous disorders. This review summarizes the benefits of resveratrol for cutaneous functions.
... Unter Hautalterung versteht man den allmählichen, kumulativen Verlust bestimmter Eigenschaften der jugendlichen Haut, die für Merkmale wie Straffheit, Dehnbarkeit, Elastizität und Pigmentierung verantwortlich sind [4,5]. [98]. Da sowohl in dieser als auch in der anderen erwähnten Studie jeweils eine Formulierung mit mehreren potenziellen Wirkstoffen getestet wurde und Studiendaten zu der Einzelsubstanz bislang fehlen, kann Resveratrol bei dermaler Applikation derzeit noch keine durch In-vivo-Untersuchungen belegte Wirksamkeit gegen Hautalterung bescheinigt werden. ...
Falten reduzieren, die Haut straff halten und einen frischen Teint herbeizaubern — diese Versprechungen machen Cosmeceuticals. Sie enthalten meist effektivere Inhaltsstoffe als herkömmliche Kosmetika.
... Plant extracts that are rich in polyphenolic constituents have been widely used in antiaging products, due to their antioxidant activities and ability to neutralize free radicals (6). Other active substances that are present in plant extracts can be used for the same purpose, such as the vitamins A, C and E (7)(8)(9). The literature reports on the beneficial effects of using plant extracts when they are associated with sun exposure in cell and animal models, resulting in photoprotective, restorative and prophylactic activities if they are used during and after sun exposure (10,11). ...
Natural extracts (NE) with antioxidant properties can minimize the effects of photoaging. Photobiomodulation (PBM) has proven to be a useful tool for the modulation of cell metabolism. Here, we investigate the associations of antioxidants with PBM with the aim of promoting skin rejuvenation. We began with standardization of the experimental protocol. Extracts of chamomile, rosemary, blueberry, green tea, figs, pomegranate, and nutwood were tested. A custom irradiation system (366 ± 10 nm) was used to simulate sun exposure. A light emitting diode system (640 ± 12.5 nm) was used for PBM. Viability assessments were performed by the MTT assay method. Based on the results, radiant exposure to UVA was defined as 15 J/cm² and 1 J/cm² for PBM. Extract concentrations were established on the basis of dark toxicities, which ranged from 0.01% to 0.3%. The data show that PBM is a promising therapy to restore keratinocytes after UVA damage; however, the detailed mechanism and effects require further exploration. Moreover, although the combination of PBM with NE may be a useful strategy, the choice of a NE is challenging, since the working concentration and other properties, such as photosensitivity, may bring about unwanted results.
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... Many retinoid-based regimens have been compared alone 14-16 , or in combination with other compounds. [17][18][19] Novel retinol formulations have also been the focus of attention. [20][21][22] In contrast, only a couple of recent studies has compared the efficacy and tolerability of various chemical peels. ...
Background
Glycolic acid (GA) chemical peels are a popular treatment for photoaged skin rejuvenation, but retinaldehyde (RAL)‐based cosmetic creams have also demonstrated efficacy in improving photoaging, and are potentially better tolerated than chemical peels.
Aims
To compare the efficacy and safety of an antiaging cream containing 0.1% RAL associated with Glycylglycine Oleamide (GGO, Relastide®) and Pre‐tocopheryl®, to GA peels sessions in the treatment of photoaging.
Patients and methods
Fifty‐five women with photoaging were randomized in 2 treatment groups: (1) Daily application of the antiaging cream for 8 weeks or (2) Three sequential GA peels (20%, 50%, and 70%), 2‐3 weeks apart. Skin surface texture, length of wrinkles, complexion radiance, and evenness of pigmentation and texture were assessed by profilometry using skin replicas, computer image analysis, and self‐assessment.
Results
Efficacy of both treatments was similar in reducing crow's feet wrinkles depth (STm −7.61%, P = .0007 vs −4.34%, P = .0348; P = .3049 intergroup) and volume, crow's feet and periorbital wrinkle length, and number of fine lines and wrinkles at end of treatments. The efficacy of the cream in refining skin texture was superior to the peels (contrast: −5.61%, P = .0025 vs +3.54, P = .08; P intergroup = .0252). The 8‐week treatment with the antiaging cream was well tolerated; adverse events were fewer and of milder intensity than with the peels, (12‐fold lower incidence of physical signs).
Conclusion
A dermocosmetic cream containing 0.1% RAL, GGO (Relastide®) and Pre‐tocopheryl® is as effective as 3 sequential GA peels, better tolerated, and is an alternative in the management of photoaged skin.
Management of the signs of facial aging and other cosmetic skin problems have greatly evolved in the past years. People are also seeking to improve their well‐being and global skin appearance, and when they consider using cosmetic procedures, they expect natural and long‐lasting aesthetic results. Combined dermocosmetic approaches that address the signs of facial aging at all levels are increasingly being used by dermatologists to meet patient expectations while ensuring their safety. Minimally invasive and reversible procedures that can be performed in only one session are popular approaches for skin restructuring and volumizing as they are flexible, rapid and less burdensome for patients. These interventions can achieve even better outcomes when they are combined with cosmeceuticals as pre‐ or post‐procedural adjuvants to prepare the skin, accelerate recovery and sustain results. The use of topical dermocosmetics is also recommended as part of the daily skin care routine to improve skin quality and help maintain skin barrier function. This review thus outlines the most commonly used combined multilevel anti‐aging strategies, which start by addressing the deepest skin layers and then the more superficial signs of skin aging. Examples of multi‐active cosmeceuticals and skin delivery enhancing systems are also presented, together with examples of the use of dermocosmetics as supportive care for aesthetic procedures, to provide insights into current applications of dermocosmetic products.
O Resveratrol é um antioxidante encontrado em algumas plantas, e é encontrado principalmente na casca e sementes das uvas vermelhas e pretas, que podem ter benefícios para a saúde da pele. Estudos sugerem que o resveratrol pode ajudar a proteger a pele contra danos causados pelos raios ultravioletas (UV) e tem propriedades antioxidantes e anti-inflamatórias que combatem os radicais livres. A pele é um órgão complexo com inúmeras funções, dentro delas a principal é defender o organismo de agressões decorrentes do meio ambiente, ainda assim é um órgão que passa pelo processo de envelhecimento. São utilizados inúmeros ativos para auxiliar no rejuvenescimento facial no intuito de devolver à pele os nutrientes essenciais e reparar seus danos.
The body undergoes physiological changes over time, aging has been a widely discussed topic in recent decades, given the increase in life expectancy. Numerous actives are used to aid in facial rejuvenation, and resveratrol, as an antioxidant that has great potential to delay the effects of cellular aging of the skin, has increasingly revealed benefits for the health and longevity of the organism as a whole. In view of this, an integrative review was carried out with the objective of analyzing scientific productions on the anti-aging and regenerative effects and implications of resveratrol on the face. The global analysis of the 7 selected studies showed that resveratrol is an important ally in the fight against skin aging due to its rejuvenating capacity. It is concluded that resveratrol is effective in controlling facial skin aging, acting as a great rejuvenating agent, however, with limited results.
The skin age is accompanied by elasticity decrease which results in flaccidity, fine and deep wrinkles besides dehydration. This process can be accompanied by a gradual decrease in melanocytes number associated by an irregular increase of melanogenesis activity which results in discromias disorder as hypo or hyperpigmentation. The interest in new substances with skin rejuvenation properties, especially from natural sources, has increased in the last years. In this way, resveratrol (3,4’,5-trihydroxy-trans-stilbene) is a natural substance and has been increasingly in the cosmetic industry because of its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and despigmenting properties. The aim of this systematic review was to analyze the potential of resveratrol in promoting skin rejuvenation. Medline and Embase were searched for studies that tested topical formulation with resveratrol in humans and measured the efficacy in skin rejuvenation. Two studies fulfilled the criteria of inclusion. In both studies the authors observed improvement in the global appearance accompanied by improvement in fine lines, shine, firmless, redness and pigmentation. Despite both studies showed the benefits of topical resveratrol, none of them used the substance alone.
Key challenges in the management of pigmentary disorders such as melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) are their resistance to treatment, tendency to recur after treatment, and the risk of exacerbating hyperpigmentation with many treatment modalities. The second article in this two-part continuing medical education series on pigmentary disorders focuses on the evidence behind medical and procedural treatments of dyschromias, including photoprotection, topical lightening agents, oral agents, chemical peels, and laser therapy.
Melanogenesis is a process catalyzed by tyrosinase enzyme leading to synthesis of two types of pigment in the skin: black-brown eumelanin and red-yellow pheomelanin. Pheomelanin is synthesized in the second stage of melanosome maturation, while eumelanin-synthesizing melanosomes are inactive. The black-brown pigment is produced in the third stage of melanosome development. The last, fourth stage of melanosome maturation is characterized by low tyrosinase activity, which reflects the low pigment production in the skin. The process of skin pigment production (melanogenesis) is mainly regulated by solar radiation, hormones and other endo- and exogenous factors. Over- stimulated melanogenesis leads to unsightly hyperpigmentation of the skin. Some substances used
in cosmetics have the ability to regulate melanogenesis and lower melanin levels.
The active ingredients on active melanocytes include: azelaic acid and azeoglycin, ferulic acid, ascorbic acid, kojic acid, tranexamic acid, extract of common daisy, licorice root extract, soybean extract, milk thistle extract, white mulberry extract, turmeric and bitter melon leaves extract, aloe extract as well as sericin, hesperidin and niacinamide.
The literature also emphasizes the possibility of influencing inactive melanocytes, such ingredients include vitamin A and its derivatives, hydroquinone, arbutin, Chinese tea and ashwagandha. Each of the described active ingredients is characterized by a different activity and partially different mechanism of action, which is based mainly on the inhibition of the activation of enzymes involved in melanogenesis (tyrosine and TRP-1 and TRP-2 proteins) mainly by: blocking the expression of MITF and binding to copper ions in the active site for tyrosinase. Active substances with a brightening effect applied externally to the skin are effective in hyperpigmentation therapies in which there is an increased amount of eumelanin in melanosomes, an increased activity of melanocytes and an increased transfer of melanin to keratinocytes.
The aim of the study was a literature review of the most frequently described active ingredients of natural origin with properties that lighten skin discoloration, paying attention to the potential effectiveness of selected active substances and their mechanism of action with reference to the melanogenesis process.
Retinol stability has been reported to be improved by encapsulation in liposomes, both with and without cholesterol. However, this improvement is limited because of lipid peroxidation. In this study, we compare the stability of retinol in phosphatidylcholine liposomes under ultraviolet (UV) light or standard room air, with and without the addition of antioxidants. Both butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) and a proprietary mix (StoppOx) improved the shelf stability from <10 to over 30 d. The addition of cholesterol had no effect. Fluorescence imaging showed a heterogeneous distribution of retinol within the vesicles, including within the aqueous layer. Fluorescence lifetimes were equally heterogeneous. Under UV irradiation, StoppOx protected retinol for significantly longer than BHT and via different mechanisms. This suggests that natural antioxidants work well to improve the retinol stability, but that further work to determine the optimal vesicle structure remains to be performed.
Background:
Retinol influences the process of keratinization of the epidermis, which improves stratum corneum structure and reduces transepidermal water loss. It also significantly enhances mature skin by brightening hyperpigmentation and reducing the signs of photoageing. Cosmeceuticals are intended to both provide aesthetic effects for the skin and allow dermatological treatment. The aim of the study was to assess the rejuvenating effect of retinol serum on facial skin at concentrations of 0.3 and 0.5%, as well as any improvements in skin brightening and elasticity.
Materials and methods:
Thirty-seven volunteers were included in the study, after confirming tolerance. The novel formula was applied once daily to the face for a period of 12 weeks: one retinol concentration on the left side and the other on the right. The initial study with liquid crystal formula (study vehicle) was carried out for 8 weeks on 28 volunteers. Treatment efficiency was evaluated at baseline, and 56 and 84 days following treatment using the multi probe adapter and Fotomedicus imaging system. PRIMOS was used to measure skin surface roughness. The visual analogue scale method enabled the results to be determined by 3 independent specialists.
Results:
Skin hyperpigmentation, unevenness, and wrinkles gradually decreased over the course of treatment, both on the left and right parts of the face. Adverse events were predominantly mild or moderate skin irritation. More frequent and more intense symptoms were observed on the left side (0.5%).
Conclusion:
Retinol in liquid crystal formulation is safe and provides significant clinical benefits associated with unification of skin colour, overall skin tone, skin elasticity, and moisture. Regular use of retinol typically results in brightening of the skin and reduced signs of ageing. The objective findings confirmed the effectiveness of the procedures.
Surgical methods for accelerating orthodontic tooth movement are limited by possible damage to the tooth root and patient discomfort. 4-Hexylresorcinol (4HR) has been shown to increase bone remodeling and may potentially facilitate tooth movement. This study investigated the (1) effect of 4HR administration on osteoblast-like cells and (2) effect of 4HR administration on tooth movement in ovariectomized rats. Saos-2 cells were treated with either 4HR or solvent (control). Protein expression levels were investigated 2, 8, and 24 h after treatment. Thirty ovariectomized Sprague-Dawley rats were divided into two experimental groups (A and B) and one control group. After installation of an orthodontic tooth movement device, groups A and B received subcutaneous weekly injections of 4HR (1.28 and 128 mg/kg). Micro-computerized tomography and histological analyses were performed after 2 weeks of tooth movement. The application of 4HR elevated expression of osteogenic markers in Saos-2 cells. Movement of the first molars was significantly greater in rats administered 4HR. Furthermore, the expression of bone morphogenic protein-2, receptor activator of nuclear factor kappa-B ligand, osteocalcin, and tartrate-resistant acid phosphatase were increased after 4HR administration. 4HR application demonstrated increased expression of osteogenic markers in Saos-2 cells and accelerated orthodontic tooth movement in rats.
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