THE APPLICATION OF CAFFEINE AS ANTI-CELLULITE COMPONENT OF BODY LOTION

Abstract

The paper discussed the problem of cellulite and cosmetic properties of caffeine. The purpose of the article was to develop anti-cellulite body lotions, where the active ingredient was caffeine and verification of properties of manufactured cosmetics. The composition of the designed emulsions was based on the literature data and own experience. There was discussed the impact of the concentration of caffeine on selected physicochemical properties and utility of body lotions: emulsion stability, viscosity, the smell of cosmetics, moisturizing ability, pH of the lotions. From the results obtained it was concluded that the formulations exhibit properties similar, or even better, in comparison with the commercial formulation. All original body lotions were stable. It was shown that the viscosity of the emulsion increases with the concentration increase of the caffeine as the additive. On the basis of experiments it was found that formulations submitted to high temperature did not change the smell of samples and the level of skin moisturization after application of original cosmetics was higher relative to the control area. In addition, it was found that the introduction of caffeine to the formulations results in a slight decrease in pH values. In general, there may be formulate a conclusion that the purpose of the work was achieved. It was also shown that caffeine can be successfully used in market anti-cellulite skin lotions.

Full text

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THE APPLICATION OF CAFFEINE AS ANTI-CELLULITE
COMPONENT OF BODY LOTION
Zięba Małgorzata*, Witkiewicz Elżbieta
Kazimierz Pulaski University of Technology and Humanities in Radom
Department of Physical and Inorganic Chemistry, Chair of Chemistry
Faculty of Materials Science and Design
* Corresponding author: Chrobrego Str. 27, 26-600 Radom, m.zieba@uthrad.pl
Abstract: The paper discussed the problem of cellulite and cosmetic properties
of caffeine. The purpose of the article was to develop anti-cellulite body lotions,
where the active ingredient was caffeine and verification of properties
of manufactured cosmetics. The composition of the designed emulsions was based
on the literature data and own experience. There was discussed the impact
of the concentration of caffeine on selected physicochemical properties and utility
of body lotions: emulsion stability, viscosity, the smell of cosmetics, moisturizing
ability, pH of the lotions. From the results obtained it was concluded
that the formulations exhibit properties similar, or even better, in comparison
with the commercial formulation. All original body lotions were stable. It was shown
that the viscosity of the emulsion increases with the concentration increase
of the caffeine as the additive. On the basis of experiments it was found
that formulations submitted to high temperature did not change the smell of samples
and the level of skin moisturization after application of original cosmetics was higher
relative to the control area. In addition, it was found that the introduction of caffeine
to the formulations results in a slight decrease in pH values. In general, there may be
formulate a conclusion that the purpose of the work was achieved. It was also shown
that caffeine can be successfully used in market anti-cellulite skin lotions.
Keywords: caffeine, cellulite, body lotions

216
1. INTRODUCTION
Caffeine is used in many types of products, such as pharmaceuticals,
confectionery, beverages, including energy drinks. A wide range
of applications is associated with multi-directional effect of this substance.
Mainly, it causes dilation of blood vessels, thereby increasing blood flow
to the brain. It also stimulates the central nervous system. In this way one
can see its positive effect on concentration. The caffeine removes the signs
of fatigue and swelling from the skin, eliminates "the bags under the eyes",
gives the skin a warm tone, and eliminates the signs of deterioration in the
condition of the skin. The caffeine is currently becoming an increasingly
popular ingredient of cosmetics. The reasons for this are its valuable cosmetic
effects [Goticelli 2007, Car 2011, Frankowski et al. 2008].
In cosmetics, the most valued effect of this compound is its anti-cellulite
effect. The caffeine is increasingly being incorporated into slimming
preparations, eliminating an orange peel and into special face creams.
A popular use of the caffeine is in the anti-cellulite body lotions [Włudyka
2011, Zdziebko-Zięba 2008, Tokarek-Nowicka 2008, Wereszczyńska 2011].
1.1. Body lotions as one of the forms of body care cosmetics
Body lotions are, alongside creams, the basic skin care cosmetics.
They affect the proper moisture of the skin and help to keep its youthful
appearance. At the Polish market of cosmetics there are a number of body
lotions, which, according to their manufacturers provide immediate effects
of use. A properly selected cosmetic is supposed to provide what the skin
needs. On the basis of gathered literature [Włudyka 2011, Zdziebko-Zięba
2008, Tokarek- Nowicka 2008, Wereszczyńska 2011] a division of body
lotions was made and their action and composition were presented.

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Moisturizing lotions. Most moisturizing lotions have a "light"
consistency. They are characterized by rapid absorption. They are usually
designed for dry, highly over-dried skin. They should be used after each bath.
In the case of dry skin, the most preferred results are obtained when using
lotions containing in its composition: glycerol, algae extract, green tea extract,
and ceramides. These compounds moisturize the skin and eliminate
its roughness. The nutritional oils supplements, for example the avocado oil
prevents the "escape" of water from the skin and slows down the ageing
process. For highly over-dried skin tight, "heavy" (sticky) which seem to better
suit are the ones containing inter alia: urea, lactic acid and shea butter.
These ingredients perfectly moisturize, but also slightly grease stopping water
in the epidermis.
Regenerating Lotions. These are cosmetics for mature, tired, inelastic,
dried, flaky types of skin. They contain nutritional vitamins, silk proteins,
herbal extracts, fruit extracts, allantoin. The skin, after their application,
becomes firm, supple, and smooth and takes a nice color. By using them
regularly the skin regenerates faster, and is also smooth and pleasant
to the touch. With systematic use of the cosmetic, the regenerating lotions help
revitalize the skin to maintain its proper condition.
Tanning lotions. In the spring and summer there is a growing interest
in tanning lotions. They give the skin a beautiful color, while stressing
the natural tan. In contrast to self-tanners they may contain a low concentration
of DHA (dihydroxyacetone - colorant, which reacts with protein found
in the epidermis, a result of this reaction a dye-like tan is produced),
or are totally devoid of this component. Tanning lotions owe their properties
mainly to the walnut extract. In their composition they also contain nourishing
substances, such as amber extract, vitamin E, panthenol, honey extract,
as well as re-fatting agents. Sometimes they contain particles illuminating

218
the skin. In contrast to the self-tanners they not form streaks. The tan effect
is obtained gradually and before applying the tanning lotion it is advisable
to make a body scrub. In this way discoloration is prevented. Attention should
be paid to what kind of complexion the tanning lotion is intended.
A fair complexion lotion is much smoother in operation than the cosmetic
designed for a darker complexion. After applying the tanning lotion
it is recommended to wait for a while until it gets absorbed. It is best to use
it every other day in order to maintain a delicate brown skin tone.
It is inadvisable to wear bright clothing, which in contact with the lotions may
get dirty.
Pharmaceutical lotions. Preparations available for purchase only
in pharmacies are typically designed for allergy sufferers and people with very
sensitive skin. They contain inter alia: urea, lactic acid and shea butter.
These components perfectly moisturize and grease the skin.
The pharmaceutical products are suited for both adults and children.
Slimming lotions. These include lotions to help fight cellulite and excess
of adipose tissue. After their application the skin removes the toxins
effectively. In their composition they contain components that affect
the subcutaneous tissue and stimulate the cells to remove the fat reserves.
Anti-cellulite lotions contain active ingredients accelerating the skin's
metabolism: mainly cocoa, guarana, L-carnitine, and ivy extract, seaweed
extract or orange extract. Thanks to these components the skin condition
improves, blood vessels are strengthened, and the skin becomes smoother
and firmer. Slimming lotions are designed to shape the figure, especially
in the abdomen, buttocks and thighs. The lotions of this kind should be used
in conjunction with diet, exercise, massage, beauty treatments and home-care.
A massage should be performed during their application. The slimming lotions
contain mostly components to reduce the accumulated adipose tissue, caffeine,

219
L-carnitine, the extracts from plants such as ivy. The slimming lotion should
be applied at least once a day. The slimming lotions consistency is usually
"light". The product is quickly absorbed.
1.2. The cellulite
Cellulite is an abnormal distribution of body fat, combined with changes
of the oedemic-fibrous nature in the subcutaneous tissue. This disease occurs
in 65 – 70% of women, and the first changes may appear as early
as in the adolescence. Cellulite is most commonly located on the abdomen,
hips, thighs and buttocks [Konopacka- Brud, Brud 1999, Lenart 2011,
Sankowski 1993, Noszczyk 2010].
Cellulite is an aesthetic problem on the medical grounds. It results from
abnormal growth of adipose tissue, blood and lymph disorders,
and the accumulation of metabolic waste products. Micro-circulatory disorders
and swelling lead to hypoxia of the adipose and connective tissue,
and consequently to the formation of the connective fibrosis
of the subcutaneous tissue [Woźniak, Juhnke, Zegarska 2010, Rawlings 2011,
Rossi, Vergnanini 2001, Rossi, Vergnanini 2002].
The popular name of cellulite "the orange peel" derives from its
characteristic appearance of the orange skin-like surface. In the areas covered
by cellulite the skin is uneven, undulating, and when grasped by hand
in the folds, lumps and bumps can be felt, sometimes so large that the touch
can cause pain [Rossi, Vergnanini 2002].
Cellulite is formed in several stages, during many months and even
years. Dermatology distinguishes four stages of cellulite emphasizing that only
the first three steps are reversible [Noszczyk 2010]. There are no clear
boundaries between the different stages.

220
Stage 1. There are no clinical symptoms in the form of "orange peel",
there is only a lymphatic and venous stasis. At this stage the accumulation
of fat by fat cells – adipocytes begins.
Stage 2. The damage to the skin and subcutaneous tissue can be noted.
Blood flow in some areas significantly may be reduced due to the pressure
of blood vessels by adipocytes. "The orange peel" appears, but at this stage
the damage is of an aesthetic nature. While standing and lying the skin
is smooth, with compression small convexities and depressions can be seen,
lumps and very small bumps cab be felt.
Stage 3. At this stage the circulatory disorders increase and the tissue
damage is not just aesthetic. There are permanent changes in the form
of wrinkles and uneven skin surface. The complexities are visible while both
standing and lying, the larger lumps are separated by fibrous tissue.
Stage 4. There are hard bumps that oppress both capillaries and nerve
fibers, which may cause pain. At this stage the cellulite becomes a very serious
destruction of the adipose tissue [Woźniak, Juhnke, Zegarska 2010, Rawlings
2011, Rossi, Vergnanini 2001, Rossi, Vergnanini 2002].
Each of the stages of cellulite requires different proceedings
and treatment. The most important is systematic observation of one's own body
and preventing the spread of cellulite on the entire body posing health hazard
[Glinka 2003, Marzec 2005].
1.3. The properties of caffeine
The caffeine, otherwise known as the theine, is a purine alkaloid
of the formula C8H10O2N4. It occurs as a white powder, odorless, with a bitter
taste. It is soluble in hot water. Its molecular weight is 194.19 [g / mol]. Figure
1 shows its structural formula.

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Figure 1. The structural formula of caffeine. Source: Authors’ own work
The compound is completely absorbed from the gastrointestinal tract,
and then distributed to the various tissues, depending on their hydration.
The caffeine does not accumulate in the human body as it undergoes rapid bio-
transformation to 1- methyluric acid, 1.3 -dimethyluric acid, 7-methylxanthine
and 1.7-dimethylxantine [Goticelli 2007, Car 2011, Frankowski et al. 2008].
The caffeine is a purine alkaloid with widely documented
pharmacological activity. This substance is also produced synthetically.
The identification of caffeine with coffee is confusing. The caffeine
is a substance which is also used for the production of medicaments.
A reaction to its action is not the same and therefore the individual
reactions may not give rise to generalizations. The caffeine has a stimulating
effect on the respiratory, cardiovascular, locomotor systems, and the vagus
nerve. It induces the reduction of the smooth muscles, causing relaxation
and better-being. It enhances the quality of thinking and concentration.
It also acts as a diuretic [Goticelli 2007, Car 2011, Frankowski et al. 2008].
The aim of this work is to develop original recipes of anti-cellulite body
lotions containing caffeine at various concentrations and the verification
of the quality of the emulsion produced by the evaluation: stability, viscosity,
skin moisturizing ability, pH, and the effect of caffeine on the odor
of the samples subjected to elevated temperatures. The original properties

222
of the lotions with added caffeine will be compared with respect
to the properties of the base lotion (without the addition of caffeine),
and the commercial product.
2. RESEARCH MATERIAL AND METHODOLOGIES
2.1. Research material
The composition of the anti-cellulite body lotions are based
on the literature data [Glinka 2003, Marzec 2005] and own studies [Sułek,
Zięba, Kulik 2012, Zięba, Choroś 2012, Sułek, Zięba, Mazurek 2011].
The names of the raw materials used are given according to the INCI
nomenclature. The obtained lotions differed in the concentration of caffeine
in the formulation. Table 1 shows composition of the original lotions.
Table1. Composition of original body lotions. Source: Authors’ own work
Phase
Trade name INCI name
Concentration
[% wt.]
Oil
Crodamol PTIS
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
2,0 %
Parafin Oil
Paraffinum Liquidum
5,0 %
Absorption Base
Paraffinum Liquidum and Lanolin
Alcohol and Oleyl Alcohol
3,0 %
Crodamol OHS
Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate
3,0 %
Emulgin B2
Ceteareth- 20
2,0 %
Lanette O
Cetearyl Alcohol
2,0 %
Silicone
Dimethicone
1,0 %
Water
Carbopol 2020
Carbomer
0,4 %
Glycerine
Glicerine
4,0 %
Water
Aqua
do 100%
Coffeine
Caffeine
X

223
NaOH 20% aq.
Sodium Hydroxide
do pH = 6,7
Preservarive
Sodium Benzoate
0,01 %
Perfume
Parfum
0,2 %
The commercial product (H) contained (according to INCI): Aqua,
Cocoglycerides, Glycerin, Dicaprylyl Ether, Cetearyl Alcohol, Olea Europaea
Fruit Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Pentaerythityl Distearate, Butyrospermum Parkii
Buter, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Carbomer, Parfum, Methylparaben,
Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Ethylparaben, Sodium Hydroxide, Butylparaben,
Isobutylparaben, Butylparaben, Propylparaben.
2.2. Research methodologies
2.2.1. The lotions stability
The centrifugal test was performed using a centrifuge type MPW-2,
under the conditions of rotational speed equal to 2000 rpm. The thermal
test was carried out by subjecting the preparations alternating to low (t = 4°C,
the cooler Amica) and high (t = 40°C incubator CL-65 by ELKON)
temperatures for a period of 7 days. The observation of the preparations
was carried out every 24 hours.
2.2.2. The viscosity
The viscosity measurements were performed on a Brookfield DV-I +
viscometer. The indications of the value η were carried out with the speed
of 10 rpm at 220°C. The values η were recorded after 3 seconds after the start
of the instrument.

224
2.2.3. The odor evaluation
The odor evaluation was carried out for the cosmetics subjected
to elevated temperatures (37°C) in an incubator CL-65 by ELKOM
over a period of 30 minutes. Each test preparation (2g) was placed
in the vessels by weight. After 30 minutes the odor was estimated.
No strange odors, unusual for the emulsion ought to be sensed
in the preparations.
2.2.4. The evaluation of the moisturizing abilities.
The ability to moisturize skin with the original lotions and with
the commercial product was evaluated. The measurements were carried out
by means of a Courage-Khazaka corneometer type CM 825. The skin moisture
was measured immediately after application of the cosmetic and for one hour
at intervals of 15 minutes.
2.2.5. The pH of body lotions
The pH of the original preparation were measured using a pH meter
CPC-401 by Elmetron.
3. RESEARCH RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
3.1. The lotions stability
Stability is an elementary condition, which should be met
by the preparations in the form of an emulsion. The evaluation of the stability
of lotions consisted in carrying out two types of tests: the centrifugal
and thermal. All the lotions passed the centrifugal and thermal tests.
On this basis, the original emulsions were qualified for further tests.

225
3.2. The viscosity
The viscosity (η) of the cosmetics determines their properties,
e.g.: absorption, spreadability on the surface of the body and ease of dispensing
from the package.
It thus constitutes an important aspect of evaluation of the quality
of the cosmetics. The measurement results are shown in Fig. 2.
Figure 2. The results of the viscosity of body lotions with added caffeine. Source:
Authors’ own work
Fig. 2 shows the results for the dynamic viscosity of the commercial
preparation, the base and the preparations with different content of caffeine.
The viscosity value for the lotion without the addition of caffeine
was 20000 mPa·s. With the increasing concentration of caffeine the dynamic
viscosity of the body lotions increased. The highest viscosity was obtained
for the lotion containing 2% caffeine (η = 40200 mPa·s), and the lowest
for the preparation containing 0.5% Caffeine (η = 20370 mPa·s). The measured
value for the commercial lotion was η = 34500 mPa·s.
0
10000
20000
30000
40000
50000
0 0,5 1,0 1,5 2,0 H
Viscosity [mPa . s]
Caffeine concentration [% wt.]

226
3.3. The odor
The odor plays an important role from the consumer's point of view.
The cosmetic lotions composed of fat derivatives, can, under the influence
of high temperatures become rancid, which adversely affects the odor
of the preparation. It was found that both the base cosmetic,
the market preparation and the preparations containing caffeine exposed
to elevated temperatures, had not changed the odor.
3.4. The evaluation of the moisturizing abilities
An important element for the proper functioning of the epidermis
is the appropriate content of water in the stratum corneum. With the proper
hydration, the epidermis is flexible and resistant to damage. The results
are shown in Fig. 3.
Figure 3. The results of the skin moisture factor after application of lotions with added
caffeine. Source: Authors’ own work
0
20
40
60
80
Control
area
0 15 30 45 60
Skin moisture factor [a.u.]
Time [min.]
0% 0.50% 1% 1.50% 2.00% H

227
Figure 3 shows the dependence of the skin moisture factor during
the use of preparations containing caffeine. The highest value of moisture
immediately after application of the preparation (0 min.) was recorded
after using a lotion containing 0.5% caffeine (70 a.u.), and the lowest
for the commercial preparation (60 a.u.). After 15 minutes the moisturization
was reduced and the lowest values were obtained for the lotion containing
1.5% Caffeine (44 a.u.) and the highest for the preparation of 1% addition
of caffeine (51 a.u.). After 60 minutes of application, the level of skin
moisturization was similar after using all the lotions (46 ÷ 56 a.u.).
3.5. pH of body lotions
The pH of a healthy skin varies from 4.5 to 6.2. It depends on the age,
sex, and even lifestyle of a human. For this reason, for body care the cosmetics
should be used with a pH close to its natural pH, not affecting the balance
of the lipid mantle of the skin. The results are presented in Fig. 4.
Figure 4. Results of pH values of body lotions. Source: Authors’ own work
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
0 0,5 1,0 1,5 2,0 H
pH value
Caffeine concentration [% wt.]

228
The analysis of the data in Figure 4 shows that the addition of caffeine
to a pharmaceutical lotion recipe lowers the pH from pH = 6.0 (lotion
without caffeine) to pH = 5.6 (c = 2%). The obtained pH values are also lower
than the pH of the commercial preparation (pH = 6.5).
4. CONCLUSIONS
The aim of this study was to use the caffeine and determine its effects
on the selected physicochemical properties of body lotions with anti-cellulite
effect. For comparison purposes, the results were compared with the results
for the lotion without the addition of caffeine and the commercial product.
The research program included: an assessment of the stability
of the emulsion and the dynamic viscosity measurement, evaluation of odor,
pH and moisturizing properties of the lotions made.
Based on the laboratory tests carried out, it was found that:
· the caffeine does not adversely affect the stability of the preparations
made;
· the caffeine concentration in a preparation results in an increase
of the viscosity of the lotion. The research shows that the introduction
of the caffeine to the recipe determines the double increase
of the viscosity of the preparation;
· pH of the lotions with added caffeine is close to pH = 6. So, these lotions
do not violate the natural lipid coat of the skin like the market cosmetic;
· adding caffeine to the recipe does not result in odor changes
of the emulsion subjected to elevated temperature;
· cosmetic emulsions enriched with caffeine exhibit superior capacities
to moisturize the skin. After the conducted analysis, it was found

229
that these preparations have better moisturizing capacities
than the lotion deprived of the additive and the commercial preparation.
Maximum moisturizing properties were recorded for the preparation
containing 0.5% of the caffeine by weight.
Summing up the research performed a generalization can be formulated
that the purpose of the work has been achieved. Recipes have been developed
in which the caffeine served as the additive. The preparations displayed
the properties similar, or even better, in comparison with the commercial
formulation, which means that it can be successfully used in commercial
skin lotions with anti-cellulite effect.
5. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
This study was supported by the project of Kazimierz Pulaski University
of Technology and Humanities in Radom, No. 3086/35/P.
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STRESZCZENIE
W pracy omówiono podział witamin oraz rolę witaminy B3 w organizmie człowieka
i jako składnika kosmetyków. Celem artykułu było opracowanie antycellulitowych
balsamów do ciała, w których rolę składnika aktywnego pełniła kofeina i weryfikacja
właściwości wytworzonych kosmetyków. Skład emulsji zaprojektowano w oparciu
o dane literaturowe i doświadczenie własne. Dyskutowano wpływ koncentracji
kofeiny na wybrane właściwości fizykochemiczne i użytkowe balsamów do ciała:
stabilność emulsji, lepkość, zapach kosmetyków, zdolności nawilżające,
pH balsamów. Na podstawie uzyskanych rezultatów stwierdzono, że preparaty
wykazywały właściwości zbliżone, a nawet korzystniejsze, w porównaniu
z preparatem handlowym. Wszystkie oryginalne balsamy były stabilne.
Wykazano, że lepkość emulsji rośnie wraz ze wzrostem stężenia dodatku kofeiny.
Na podstawie przeprowadzonych eksperymentów stwierdzono, że preparaty poddane
wysokiej temperaturze nie zmieniają zapachu próbek a poziom nawilżenia skóry
po aplikacji wytworzonych kosmetyków był wyższy względem pola kontrolnego.
Dodatkowo stwierdzono, że wprowadzenie kofeiny do formulacji skutkuje
niewielkim obniżeniem wielkości pH. Podsumowując przeprowadzone badania
można sformułować uogólnienie, że cel pracy został osiągnięty. Wykazano również,
że kofeina z powodzeniem może być stosowana w handlowych balsamach
antycellulitowych.
Słowa kluczowe: kofeina, cellulit, balsamy do ciała