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Smart Textile Products and Services in Sustainability Context

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... Beyond the challenges of prototyping wearables and eTextiles there are key issues of the sustainability and ethics identified by the WEAR Sustain network which need to be considered within the design and development process as they become embedded into the technologies that we produce. As discussed by Kuusk et al. (2014) smart textiles present a bigger risk to the environment than conventional textiles as they increase the consumption of scarce raw materials and are hard to recycle due to the intertwining of multiple kinds of materials. Ethical concerns with the development of wearables and eTextiles are both in terms of the personal and often private data collected by wearable devices, and also the ethical implications of the manufacturing processes involved in mass productions of both textiles and technology. ...
... Indeed, in the survey most respondents, whether artists or technologists, highlighted the issues of prototyping and technical development as most important in the development of new wearable and eTextile products. Compounding the challenge of moving from early prototypes to production runs were concerns about ethical and sustainable production and manufacturing similar to those noted by Kuusk et al. (2014). These concerns resulted in some teams choosing to locate production within the EU to ensure ethical production and manufacture, however, this can increase production time and cost. ...
... These concerns resulted in some teams choosing to locate production within the EU to ensure ethical production and manufacture, however, this can increase production time and cost. Ethical, sustainable, and traceable global production and supply chains would need to be developed if the environmental impact of wearables and eTextiles highlighted by Kuusk et al. (2014) are to be mitigated. ...
Conference Paper
Full-text available
Purpose: As wearable technologies and eTextile sectors mature they are being increasingly used in couture and high street fashion. However, much of the innovation in this space has been driven by technological and commercial imperatives. It is time to reconsider this technological landscape in the bigger picture of a sustainable human-centred world. Approach: This paper reports on initial findings from 48 projects supported through the EU funded WEAR Sustain network to examine sustainable and ethical approaches to wearable technology design. Case studies of collaborations between artists and technologists in designing and realising sustainable and ethical wearable technologies are presented. Findings: An initial set of themes emerging from detailed analysis of WEAR Sustain network project updates are outlined highlighting the importance of cross-disciplinary hubs, mentors, and networks. A survey of wearable and eTextile stakeholders highlights the challenges faced in ethical manufacturing and production of wearable and eTextile products which blur the boundaries between digital and physical. Value: This paper offers the reader insight into challenges and opportunities in the emergent Creative Economy sector of wearables and eTextiles which have the potential to transform the fashion industry. By reporting on case studies of recent near-to-market projects this paper grounds concerns of ethics and sustainability in wearable and eTextile design and production in real-word experience.
... In this case, the closed-loop plan is to collect the clothes back after the use and products along with parts are designed for the easy dismantling or reuse for a new product (Toeters, 2018). (Kuusk et al., 2014). In the 2014 Ambience 14&10i3m conference paper sustainability is discussed. ...
... Moving forward with the idea, Kuusk et al. (2014) emphasize the opportunity for more sustainable consumption through textile product service systems by combining product design with service elements. Authors bring out how this type of service system in textiles is not a new approach by bringing examples of leasing clothing and technical textile companies. ...
... STS approach could disrupt the excess amount of clothing consumption (Kuusk, 2016). This concept creates an opportunity to minimize the gap by creating more personalized products according to user needs and by that increase the longevity of products (Kuusk et al., 2014). Together, these studies demonstrate how STS can support ecological and circular end-of-life solutions for e-textiles. ...
Article
Research and development of new products in the smart textile field is growing rapidly because of versatile application areas. There is an extensive focus on the integration of electronics into textiles. However, if different fields are merged, as here, the sustainability and recycling issues might descend into even more complex systems. The article reviews current research and development conducted on the end-of-life (EOL) solutions for electronic textiles (e-textiles). Chosen papers had to be peer-reviewed, written in English, and address the EOL issue for electronic-based smart textiles. The search resulted in 18 publications, which indicates a low amount of research but also the serious lack of legislation and actual solutions emerged in this multidisciplinary field. Three main themes were found: smart textile services, eco-design strategy and educating guidelines. Authors suggest taking urgent actions by preventive steps in combining current electronics and textile waste management systems into one standard for e-textiles.
... However, both e-textiles and self-cleaning textiles still require a detailed sustainability analysis, since even though they are capable of providing significant benefits, their mass production can accelerate the rate of consumption of natural resources as metals [115]. In this regard, a lack of training and information has been detected in the developers of textile technologies in sustainable design issues. ...
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The textile industry is one of the most important productive sectors worldwide, and everyone, to some extent, is involved in its value chain. For this reason, it is essential to be informed about its performance, problems and innovations. This paper presents the progress done in the transition towards sustainable production and consumption patterns. A literature review of the life cycle stages of textile products was carried out to identify initiatives and actions improving the performance. The findings show that transparency and traceability along the supply chain have been a fundamental piece in the transition. Besides, the creation of multi-stakeholders’ clusters, seeking to improve social and environmental issues has been one of the most successful paths in this transition. However, a lack of training and skills along the life cycle stages and disconnection between products’ design and strategies of recycling was found. For this reason, it is recommendable to generate an in-depth diagnosis of the textile industry at a global and regional level. As well, it is necessary to generate strategies and tools that facilitate this transition, mainly supporting SMEs (small- and medium-sized companies).
... For now we can already discuss the prospective environmental problems around e-textiles in an early stage of innovation. In this discussion, the possibility that the development of smart textileswhether or not in combination with service systemscould lead to sustainable products andproduct service systems (PSS), should be included [28]. This paper only presents one iteration of the eco-design process. ...
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Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys brings together for the first time information about lifecycle sustainability impacts of fashion and textiles, practical alternatives, design concepts and social innovation. It challenges existing ideas about the scope and potential of sustainability issues in fashion and textiles, and sets out a more pluralistic, engaging and forward-looking picture, drawing on ideas of systems thinking, human needs, local products, slow fashion and participatory design, as well as knowledge of materials. The book not only defines the field, it also challenges it, and uses design ideas to help shape more sustainable products and promote social change. Arranged in two sections, the first four chapters represent key stages of the lifecycle: material cultivation/extraction, production, use and disposal. The remaining four chapters explore design approaches for altering the scale and nature of consumption, including service design, localism, speed and user involvement. While each of these chapters is complete in and of itself, their real value comes from what they represent together: innovative ways of thinking about textiles and garments based on sustainability values and an interconnected approach to design.
Thesis
Full-text available
This dissertation explores environmental aspects of smart textiles: products that feature a deep integration or even a fusion of textile and electronic materials. The emerging technology exemplifies a contemporary innovation trend of augmenting the functionality of every-day objects to make them smart. The environ- mental assessment shows that the mass application of such products can lead to increasing resource consumption (energy and raw materials) and to new waste problems at the end of the use phase. The early stage of a technology development process holds opportunities to steer the innovation along sustainable pathways. Environmentally conscious design aims to mitigate environmental impacts of new products. The thesis presents risk preventative eco-design strategies that can help to minimise adverse environmental impacts before large amounts of smart textiles are brought to the market. Notably, the work explores how Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) can be used as a decision support tool at the early stage of product development. A simplified LCA-framework for application in the smart textiles sector is proposed.
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Despite the abundant research on material flows and the growing recognition of the need to dematerialize the economy, business enterprises are still not making the best possible use of the many opportunities for material efficiency improvements. This article proposes one possible solution: material efficiency services provided by outside suppliers. It also introduces a conceptual framework for the analysis of different business models for eco-efficient services and applies the framework to material efficiency services. Four business models are outlined and their feasibility is studied from an empirical vantage point. In contrast to much of the previous research, special emphasis is laid on the financial aspects. It appears that the most promising business models are ‘material efficiency as additional service’ and ‘material flow management service’. Depending on the business model, prominent material efficiency service providers differ from large companies that offer multiple products and/or services to smaller, specialized providers. Potential clients (users) typically lack the resources (expertise, management's time or initial funds) to conduct material efficiency improvements themselves. Customers are more likely to use material efficiency services that relate to support materials or side-streams rather than those that are at the core of production. Potential client organizations with a strategy of outsourcing support activities and with experience of outsourcing are more keen to use material efficiency services.
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Design academics and practitioners are facing a multiplicity of challenges in a dynamic, complex, world moving faster than the current design paradigm which is largely tied to the values and imperatives of commercial enterprise. Current education and practice need to evolve to ensure that the discipline of design meets sustainability drivers and equips students, teachers and professionals for the near-future. New approaches, methods and tools are urgently required as sustainability expands the context for design and what it means to be a 'designer'. Design activists, who comprise a diverse range of designers, teachers and other actors, are setting new ambitions for design. They seek to fundamentally challenge how, where and when design can catalyse positive impacts to address sustainability. They are also challenging who can utilise the power of the design process. To date, examination of contemporary and emergent design activism is poorly represented in the literature. This book will provide a rigorous exploration of design activism that will re-vitalise the design debate and provide a solid platform for students, teachers, design professionals and other disciplines interested in transformative (design) activism. Design Activism provides a comprehensive study of contemporary and emergent design activism. This activism has a dual aim - to make positive impacts towards more sustainable ways of living and working; and to challenge and reinvigorate design praxis,. It will collate, synthesise and analyse design activist approaches, processes, methods, tools and inspirational examples/outcomes from disparate sources and, in doing so, will create a specific canon of work to illuminate contemporary design discourse. Design Activism reveals the power of design for positive social and environmental change, design with a central activist role in the sustainability challenge. Inspired by past design activists and set against the context of global-local tensions, expressions of design activism are mapped. The nature of contemporary design activism is explored, from individual/collective action to the infrastructure that supports it generating powerful participatory design approaches, a diverse toolbox and inspirational outcomes. This is design as a political and social act, design to enable adaptive societal capacity for co-futuring.
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The production, use and eventual disposal of most clothing is environmentally damaging, and many fashion and textile designers are becoming keen to employ more sustainable strategies in their work. This book provides a practical guide to the ways in which designers are creating fashion with less waste and greater durability.
Zero--waste design practice. Strategies and risk taking for garment design in Shaping Sustainable Fashion: Changing the Way We Make and Use Clothes
  • H Mcquillan
McQuillan, H.: Zero--waste design practice. Strategies and risk taking for garment design in Shaping Sustainable Fashion: Changing the Way We Make and Use Clothes, 1849712425, London, (2011), p.96
Sustainability Assessment : The Way Ahead for Corporate Reportin
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Lumsden, R. J.: Sustainability Assessment : The Way Ahead for Corporate Reportin, Proceedings of 1st International Conference on Sustainability Engineering and Science, (2003), No. 1
The Future of Sustainability
  • W M Adams
Adams, W. M.: The Future of Sustainability, Available from: http://cmsdata.iucn.org/downloads/iucn_future_of_sustanability.pdf, Accessed: 2014.06.13