Article

Hair photoprotection by dyes

Authors:
To read the full-text of this research, you can request a copy directly from the authors.

Abstract

We have found that hair dyes protect hair against photodamage. The efficacy of photoprotection of dye products has been measured by monitoring the tensile strength of hair fibers and the integrity of the disulfide bonds in the fibers. Although the hair dyed with permanent dye products are initially weakened due to oxidative chemical damage, they also show a slower rate of degradation upon photoirradiation, compared to the undyed hair. Thus, a less appreciated benefit of using hair colors is their ability to provide protection against sun damage.

No full-text available

Request Full-text Paper PDF

To read the full-text of this research,
you can request a copy directly from the authors.

... The mechanism of action was unclear with frequent side effects especially gastrointestinal upset. [22] Calcium pantothenate has also been used successfully in dosage of 200 mg/day. [4] It has been found that hair dyes may protect hair against photo-damage. ...
... [4] It has been found that hair dyes may protect hair against photo-damage. [22] Recent experimental work indicates that cinnamidopropyltrimonium chloride, a quaternized UV absorber, delivered from a shampoo system, is suitable for photoprotection of hair, while simultaneously providing an additional conditional benefit on hair, [23] Solid lipid nanoparticles have been developed as novel carriers of UV blockers for use on skin and hair, offering photoprotection on their own too by reacting and scattering ultraviolet radiation (UVR). [24] Recent advances in the management of aging hair and scalp are anti-aging compounds. ...
Article
Full-text available
In today’s world, physical appearance and the desire to look young are very important. Skin and hair play a powerful role in this as they impart much information, not only about our race, ethnicity, and health but also about gender and age. We experience a significant change in pigmentation during our journey of life from birth to puberty and then to young adulthood, middle age, and beyond. Graying of hair is a conspicuous sign of aging. It is said that 50% of the people have 50% gray hair by the age of 50. Premature graying or premature canities is defined as graying that occurs before the age of 20 in Caucasians, before 25 in Asians, and before 30 in Africans. The pathogenesis of premature canities is not yet clear but various hypotheses have been suggested including alteration in pH and cysteine levels in melanosomes, the role of trace metal ions, vitamin B12 and folic acid, vitamin D3, and oxidative stress. Along with increased awareness, there is an increased demand for treatment modalities but the options are limited and unsatisfactory. Various topical preparations containing phytic acid, amino acids, peptides, acetyl hexapeptide-1, melitane, capixyl, pea proteins, etc. are already available in the market. Currently, research is focusing on topical liposome targeting melanins, genes, and proteins selective to hair follicles for therapeutic and cosmetic modification of hair. Keywords: Melanosomes, melitane, oxidative stress, canities, premature graying
... • Treatments and weathering: Chemical damage increases breakage and conditioners decrease breakage [33][34][35][36][37][38] • Relative humidity (RH) or water content of the hair: Highly coiled hair breaks more by dry state grooming, while straight to wavy hair provides more short segment breaks (< 2.5 cm) when dry, but more long segment breaks when wet 38,39 • Impact breakage or pulling a comb or brush through a tangle with breakage 40 ...
... Dyed hair shows a slower rate of degradation upon photo-irradiation, as compared to the undyed hair. [84] Silicone resins like trimethylsiloxysilicate and propylphenylsilsesquioxane incorporated into hair dyes have been reported to decrease the color change induced by UV radiation in dyed hair. [85] Such products have been safely used with excellent results in millions of individuals worldwide. ...
Article
Full-text available
Premature graying is an important cause of low self-esteem, often interfering with socio-cultural adjustment. The onset and progression of graying or canities correlate very closely with chronological aging, and occur in varying degrees in all individuals eventually, regardless of gender or race. Premature canities may occur alone as an autosomal dominant condition or in association with various autoimmune or premature aging syndromes. It needs to be differentiated from various genetic hypomelanotic hair disorders. Reduction in melanogenically active melanocytes in the hair bulb of gray anagen hair follicles with resultant pigment loss is central to the pathogenesis of graying. Defective melanosomal transfers to cortical keratinocytes and melanin incontinence due to melanocyte degeneration are also believed to contribute to this. The white color of canities is an optical effect; the reflection of incident light masks the intrinsic pale yellow color of hair keratin. Full range of color from normal to white can be seen both along individual hair and from hair to hair, and admixture of pigmented and white hair is believed to give the appearance of gray. Graying of hair is usually progressive and permanent, but there are occasional reports of spontaneous repigmentation of gray hair. Studies evaluating the association of canities with osteopenia and cardiovascular disease have revealed mixed results. Despite the extensive molecular research being carried out to understand the pathogenesis of canities, there is paucity of effective evidence-based treatment options. Reports of repigmentation of previously white hair following certain inflammatory processes and use of drugs have suggested the possibility of cytokine-induced recruitment of outer sheath melanocytes to the hair bulb and rekindled the hope for finding an effective drug for treatment of premature canities. In the end, camouflage techniques using hair colorants are outlined.
... Although hats provide the best protection of the scalp from UVR, not all patients find it convenient or acceptable for this purpose. While protection of the hair against photodamage has been extensively studied, there are no data on photoprotection of the hair-bearing scalp: It has been found that hair dyes may protect hair against photodamage; [48] recent experimental work indicates that cinnamidpropyltrimonium chloride, a quaternized UV absorber, delivered from a shampoo system, is suitable for photoprotection of hair, while simultaneously providing an additional conditional benefit on hair; [49] and solid lipid nanoparticles have been developed as novel carriers of UV blockers for the use on skin and hair, while offering photoprotection on their own by reflecting and scattering UVR. [50] ...
Article
Full-text available
Experimental evidence supports the hypothesis that oxidative stress plays a major role in the ageing process. Reactive oxygen species are generated by a multitude of endogenous and environmental challenges. Reactive oxygen species or free radicals are highly reactive molecules that can directly damage cellular structural membranes, lipids, proteins, and DNA. The body possesses endogenous defence mechanisms, such as antioxidative enzymes and non-enzymatic antioxidative molecules, protecting it from free radicals by reducing and neutralizing them. With age, the production of free radicals increases, while the endogenous defence mechanisms decrease. This imbalance leads to the progressive damage of cellular structures, presumably resulting in the ageing phenotype. Ageing of hair manifests as decrease of melanocyte function or graying, and decrease in hair production or alopecia. There is circumstantial evidence that oxidative stress may be a pivotal mechanism contributing to hair graying and hair loss. New insights into the role and prevention of oxidative stress could open new strategies for intervention and reversal of the hair graying process and age-dependent alopecia.
... Others of interest are green tea polyphenols, phytoestrogens, melatonin (Bangha et al, 1996; Fischer et al, 2001 ), and as yet unidentified substances from TCM and Ayurveda. With respect to photoprotection, hair dyes provide protection of the hair shaft (Pande et al, 2001), and topically applied chemicals that act as UV protectors are under research. Cinnamidpropyltrimonium chloride, a quaternized UV absorber delivered in shampoos, has both UV protective and conditional benefits (Gao and Bedell, 2001). ...
Article
Hair cosmetic agents are preparations intended for placing in contact with the hair and scalp, with the purpose of cleansing, promoting attractiveness, altering appearance, and/or protecting them in order to maintain them in good condition. Current shampoo formulations and styling products are tailored to the variations associated with age, gender, hair quality, hair care habit, and specific problems relating to the superficial condition of the scalp. The great amount of variables to be accounted for, some of them contradictory and hard to bring into accord, makes adequate product formulation a challenge and requires continuous research. Recent hair cosmetic developments include topical hair growth stimulants, photoprotectors, and anti-aging compounds. The advances in molecular technology have opened the avenue to the study of the molecular basis of hair growth and its deviations, as well as of the aging process. The discovery of potential pharmacological targets and the development of selective and effective delivery systems following topical application indicate further strategies for maintenance of healthy hair and scalp in the young and old.
... While protection of the hair against photodamage has been extensively studied, there are no data on photoprotection of the hairbearing scalp. It has been found that hair dyes may protect hair against photodamage (Pande et al 2001); recent Trüeb experimental work indicate that cinnamidpropyltrimonium chloride, a quaternized UV absorber, delivered from a shampoo system, is suitable for photoprotection of hair, while simultaneously providing an additional conditional benefit on hair (Gao and Bedell 2001); and solid lipid nanoparticles have been developed as novel carriers of UV blockers for the use on skin and hair, while offering photoprotection on their own by reflecting and scattering UVR (Wissing and Muller 2001). Finally, systemic photoprotection has been the focus of more recent investigation, in as much as this would overcome some of the problems associated with the topical use of sunscreens: Preclinical studies illustrate photoprotective properties of supplemented antioxidants, particularly beta-carotene (provitamin A), α-tocopherol (vitamin E), and L-ascorbate (vitamin C). ...
Article
The appearance of hair plays an important role in people's overall physical appearance and self-perception. With today's increasing life-expectations, the desire to look youthful plays a bigger role than ever. The hair care industry has become aware of this and is delivering active products directed towards meeting this consumer demand. The discovery of pharmacological targets and the development of safe and effective drugs also indicate strategies of the drug industry for maintenance of healthy and beautiful hair. Hair aging comprises weathering of the hair shaft, decrease of melanocyte function, and decrease in hair production. The scalp is subject to intrinsic and extrinsic aging. Intrinsic factors are related to individual genetic and epigenetic mechanisms with interindividual variation: prototypes are familial premature graying, and androgenetic alopecia. Currently available pharmacologic treatment modalities with proven efficacy for treatment of androgenetic alopecia are topical minoxidil and oral finasteride. Extrinsic factors include ultraviolet radiation and air pollution. Experimental evidence supports the hypothesis that oxidative stress also plays a role in hair aging. Topical anti-aging compounds include photoprotectors and antioxidants. In the absence of another way to reverse hair graying, hair colorants remain the mainstay of recovering lost hair color. Topical liposome targeting for melanins, genes, and proteins selectively to hair follicles are currently under investigation.
Article
Full-text available
Background: Sensory and structural characteristics of hair can be modified by chemical and physical treatments, as dyeing, brushing, but also by external factors, as sunlight radiation. However, quantitative data relating damage to the degree of hair curliness and treatments are missing. Objective: To evaluate the effect of chemical and physical treatments on different types of hair. Methods: In this study, we compared the effects of bleaching/dyeing, thioglycolate-based straightening, brushing/flat iron and UVA/Vis radiation on different types of hair: Caucasian (straight dark brown, straight blond, wavy dark brown and curly dark brown) and Afro-ethnic hair. Results: Bleaching/dyeing and UVA/Vis radiation increased combing work of Afro-ethnic hair tresses, indicating damage to the cuticle scales, which was confirmed by SEM images. Further, bleaching/dyeing caused wear on cuticles with high protein loss and reduction on the tryptophan content, independently of the hair curliness, which characterizes those procedures as very aggressive to hair structure. Straightening using ammonium thioglycolate, due to the oxidative treatment evolved, caused significant color fading in brown/black tresses, while UVA/Vis radiation affected the color of only blond hair tresses since they are poor in eumelanin, the photoprotective and photostable melanin molecule. Conclusion: The combination of analytical and image techniques contributed to understanding how the hair shape is related to the type of damage caused by several chemical and physical treatments. These findings contribute to the development of safety cosmetics that insure the beauty of curly hair, both Caucasian and Afro-ethnic hair. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.
Chapter
A single human hair grows at the rate of approximately 9–12 mm/month. The combined effect of approximately 100,000 hair shafts produces a physical entity—the hair mass—which increases at a combined total of approximately 6 feet (1.8 m) an hour or 140 feet (46.67 m)/day. At a uniform length of 40 cm, this represents 40 km of hair carried on the head.
Chapter
Hair is a natural fiber that can be damaged by photoinduced oxidative damage. Sunscreens can prevent damage to hair protein and preserve hair color enhancing cosmesis. Aging hair is more susceptible to photoinduced damaged as gray hair lacks melanin, which quenches oxygen radicals from UV radiation. Hair growth rate and hair diameter both decrease with advancing age.
Chapter
Hair care, color, and style play an important role in people’s physical appearance and self-perception. Hair defines an individual’s gender, age, sexual attitude, and social status. There are no significant differences in the number of hair follicles between men and women or between different races. Differences in the appearance of hair are due to the type of hair produced by a follicle and to the type of hair care and cosmetics practiced by the individual. Healthy hair is usually perceived to be shiny hair with a smooth texture and clean-cut end or tapered tips. Hair texture and shine relate to hair surface properties, while the integrity of hair ends relates to the hair cortex.
Article
Hair aging comprises weathering of the hair shaft and aging of the hair follicle. Aging of the follicle manifests as a decrease of melanocyte function or graying, and decrease in hair production in androgenetic and senescent alopecia. The study of hair aging focuses on two main streams of interest: the esthetic problem of aging hair and its management and also the biological problem of aging hair in terms of microscopic, biochemical and molecular changes. The scalp is subject to intrinsic or physiologic aging and extrinsic aging due to external factors. Intrinsic factors are related to individual genetic and epigenetic mechanisms with interindividual variation. Examples of genetic factors are familial premature graying and androgenetic alopecia. Extrinsic factors include UV radiation and smoking. The appearance of hair plays an important role in people's overall physical appearance and self-perception. With today's increasing life-expectancy, the desire to look youthful plays a bigger role than ever. The hair-care industry has become aware of this, and has subsequently adapted to become more able to deliver active products that are directed towards meeting this consumer demand. The discovery of pharmacological targets and the development of safe and effective drugs indicate drug industry strategies for the maintenance of healthy hair. Currently available treatment modalities with proven efficacy for the treatment of androgenetic alopecia are topical minoxidil, oral finasteride and autologous hair transplantation. Hair-care products include humefactants, hair conditioners, photoprotectors and antioxidants. In the absence of another way to reverse hair graying, hair colorants are the mainstay of covering lost hair color. Topical liposome targeting for melanins, genes and proteins selectively to hair follicles, and tissue engineering of hair follicles are under current investigation.
Article
Fading of artificial hair colour has been investigated by simulating actual usage conditions through exposure to artificial radiation in a weatherometer, with 0.35 mW (m(2)nm)(-1) at 340 nm, for 16-48 h, and by periodical washing. Hair colour was produced by using commercial two-part, permanent hair dyes with light auburn, medium auburn and dark auburn shades. Formulations based on red couplers, such as 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene and 1-naphthol, as well as primary intermediates, such as 1-hydroxyethyl-4,5-diamino pyrazole sulphate, were employed. Results indicate that the extent of fading, as measured by the total colour change parameter, dE, is greatest for coloured hair subjected to both irradiation and shampooing, and significantly smaller for hair undergoing only irradiation or washing. Colour loss has been also found to be dependent upon the hair type employed, with coloured natural white and bleached hair undergoing much greater change than coloured brown hair. It has been also shown that hair colour based on pyrazole intermediates displayed the deepest fading as a result of shampooing (dE 4-6 after 10 shampooings) and irradiation per shampooing (dE 14-16 after 32 h of light exposure and four shampooings). The contribution of UV light (UVB + UVA) to the artificial hair-colour loss was found experimentally to be dependent upon the irradiation dose and varied from 63% at 16 h of irradiation time to 27% at 48 h of light exposure. The theoretical extent of photoprotection by a formulation was assessed by calculating the percentage of UV light it attenuates in the wavelength range from 290 to 400 nm. The results indicate that UVB photofilters, such as octyl methoxy cinnamate, absorb <25% of the total UV irradiation at concentrations as high as 30 mg (g hair)(-1). UVA absorbers were found to be more effective, with benzophenone-3 and benzophenone-4 absorbing about 40% of UV at the same concentration. Corresponding experimental data were in reasonable agreement with the theoretical predictions. The data are also presented for colour protection with treatments containing two photo-absorbers: benzophenone-3-ZnO; benzophenone-4-ZnO; octyl methoxy cinnamate-ZnO; and dimethylpabaimidopropyl laurdimonium tosylate-benzophenone-3.
ResearchGate has not been able to resolve any references for this publication.