Favnvatn in south Nordland, Norway, is a large lake between the “Inland Sea” of Røsvatn and the Swedish border that lies in the Køli Nappes of the Caledonide thrust sheets. Several outcrops of long, west to east and valley aligned, bands of angled stripe karst marble crop out north of Favnvatn, some extending into Sweden. Over 20 karst caves range from 520–920m a.s.l., with a total explored length >1500m, some being known from legends. Additionally, >500m of sumped passages have been dived. About 16 caving visits to the area are reported. The first was by the St. Pierre family to Tverdal in 1970, followed by David Heap in 1974. He crossed the 16km-wide Røsvatn by inflatable with two 14 year-old school boys and then backpacked 21km to reach the large crater-like entrance to Brakfjeldhullet at 750m a.s.l. Later, his larger team discovered Ytterlihullet north of Røsvatn, which is the deepest cave in Scandinavia south of Mo i Rana. Four South Nordland expeditions included Favnvatn in itineraries and there were 8 Swedish visits. Rana Grotteklub surveyed the beautifully scalloped Fasettgrotta in Tverdal in 2004, with a later tourist visit. Geological mapping by the University of Utrecht in 1983 and 1984 identified four new karst features (visited by the final South Nordland expedition in 2011) and a previously unmapped long marble outcrop. A convenient place to camp is along a short track at the east end of Favnvatn.
The caves at Favnvatn are described in three local areas based on the 1:50,000 map sheet Hjartfjellet 2026 IV. Small features occur in Area 1 (Jupmelvatn and Akfjell). The remote Area 2 (Olfjell and Skinnfelldal) includes a 15km-long outcrop of marble where four caves could perhaps be connected by shallow diving. Above Skinnfelldal, Tjuvarna Håla is 15m deep at c. 810m a.s.l., with large passages that are not yet surveyed. Area 3 (Tverelv and Brakfjell) has a single mapped arc of marble that stretches 7.5km from Favnvatn to beyond Brakfjell. The Brakfjeldhullet waterfall shaft is 15m deep, but is entered from a large daylight entrance part way down. A tightening series of silent rifts above the blocked stream exit can be followed for only c. 150m. The stream runs underground for 2.4km to its impenetrable resurgence, with some explored and unexplored entrances in the dry valley above. Just beyond the resurgence, the parallel stream Tverelv passes through Tverelvgrotta, Pensioners’ Cave, Fasettgrotta and Fasettgrotta Resurgence Cave, which all contain thousands of flow scallops on their clean-washed walls. If the static sump in Tverelvgrotta can be dived, it is 700m to the rising near Pensioners’ Cave. This was connected to the other two caves in several dives by a Swedish team in 2019, a magnificent achievement in a system >1000m long. Sump surveys are awaited, and other long and wide marble outcrops still need to be investigated in the northern part of the Favnvatn area.
The speleogenesis of these caves is interesting. Tjuvarna Håla was submerged beneath a maximum 558m of flowing melt water from an ice-dammed lake around Olfjell for about 1340 radiocarbon years during deglaciation, which accounts for its significant size. However, Brakfjeldhullet was beneath up to 240m of water in the much lower Brakfjell ice-dammed lake for only about 480 14C years, so that its upper phreatic level seems to be smaller. The caves in Skinnfelldal were initially beneath c. 700m of water that flowed up valley to the west for about 1620 14C years, partly accounting for their size. Their sumps also enlarge during each summer in the Holocene. The Tverelv system was under up to 440m of water for about 840 14C years, explaining the intermediate size of its relict phreatic passages. Further speleogenetic evidence is provided by the upper larger and lower smaller wall scallops observed in the relict phreatic and active vadose levels of the four caves along the underground Tverelv. The longer scallops probably formed during flows from the Brakfjell ice-dammed lake during deglaciation. The shorter scallops are still forming during the Holocene spring melt, when the system floods with fast flows in vadose conditions. The height loss of Brakfjeldhullet is 190m to its resurgence, so that most of its active route must be vadose. However, its present catchment area is only just over half that of Fasettgrotta Resurgence Cave, which has a vadose cross-section <1m2. Its unexplored streamway is thus likely to be even smaller and more challenging to enter.