No full-text available
To read the full-text of this research,
you can request a copy directly from the authors.
Deriving renewable squalane from sugarcane
... These formulations function as antigen delivery systems and potentiators of innate and adaptive immune responses (Table 1; [17,18]). In cosmetics, fully saturated squalane (C 30 H 62 ), generated through squalene hydrogenation, is a valued ingredient due to its emollient, moisturizing, and antioxidant properties (Figure 1, [19][20][21]). Squalane easily penetrates human skin, hence serving as a liquid vehicle that facilitates the absorption of other bioactive molecules [22,23]. ...
... When compared to sharks and plants, these microorganisms produce minimal quantities of squalene (reviewed in [3]). However, their easy maintenance, rapid life cycle and the possibility to genetically engineer and optimize their metabolism, make them appealing sources of metabolites with commercial value, such as squalene [7,21,[29][30][31]. Here, the yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae (S. cerevisiae) emerges as the standard model organism for the optimization of the isoprenoid synthetic pathway, via genetic engineering and metabolic manipulation [29,31,32]. ...
... This raises concerns about the sustainability of the massive production of pandemic vaccines, as shark-derived squalene has been traditionally used as an adjuvant [33]. In recent years, genetic and metabolic manipulation of microorganisms significantly improved the production of commercially appealing biomolecules, including squalene [3,21,28]. Such advances represent major breakthroughs in the supply chain of highly demanded biomolecules, potentially meeting global needs in a sustainable manner in the foreseeable future. ...
Squalene is a natural linear triterpene that can be found in high amounts in certain fish liver oils, especially from deep-sea sharks, and to a lesser extent in a wide variety of vegeTable oils. It is currently used for numerous vaccine and drug delivery emulsions due to its stability-enhancing properties and biocompatibility. Squalene-based vaccine adjuvants, such as MF59 (Novartis), AS03 (GlaxoSmithKline Biologicals), or AF03 (Sanofi) are included in seasonal vaccines against influenza viruses and are presently being considered for inclusion in several vaccines against SARS-CoV-2 and future pandemic threats. However, harvesting sharks for this purpose raises serious ecological concerns that the exceptional demand of the pandemic has exacerbated. In this line, the use of plants to obtain phytosqualene has been seen as a more sustainable alternative, yet the lower yields and the need for huge investments in infrastructures and equipment makes this solution economically ineffective. More recently, the enormous advances in the field of synthetic biology provided innovative approaches to make squalene production more sustainable, flexible, and cheaper by using genetically modified microbes to produce pharmaceutical-grade squalene. Here, we review the biological mechanisms by which squalene-based vaccine adjuvants boost the immune response, and further compare the existing sources of squalene and their environmental impact. We propose that genetically engineered microbes are a sustainable alternative to produce squalene at industrial scale, which are likely to become the sole source of pharmaceutical-grade squalene in the foreseeable future.
... Terpenoid supplies and prices can be very volatile because of the very small market size and the fact most are extracted directly from plant sources; these factors make the development of alternative stable production by fermentation attractive as such production has the potential to both reduce supply volatility and price ( Figure 1). Pharmaceutical and fine chemicals have attractive price targets, so it should not be surprising that three of the five metabolic engineering companies mentioned in Figure 1 are targeting terpenes currently used in the pharmaceutical [15 ,26] and fine chemicals (e.g., flavor and fragrances [27], and cosmetics [28]) sectors. Three companies are also targeting commodity chemical products and fuels ( Figure 1). ...
... Like other natural ingredients, squalene supplies are subject to natural supply uncertainties; however due to the shark source, it has become the focus of campaigns against the harvesting of endangered sharks [37,38]. Squalane is currently produced by Amyris by dimerizing the fermentation product b-farnesene (see following section), followed by a chemical hydrogenation step to create the saturated hydrocarbon [28]. ...
... It is a 15-carbon branched-chain alkene with a conjugated double bond system at its terminus that makes it amenable to chemical modification, and is produced as a pure enantiomer. Farnesene has many uses as a feedstock molecule for the production of cosmetic oils [28], polymers [48,49 ], surfactants [49 ], lubricants [50] and fuels [49 ], among others. This substance is a natural product used as an alarm pheromone emitted by aphids [51], a natural coating of apples [52], or as a component of essential oils. ...
Terpenoids comprise a large (>55000) family of compounds, very few of which have been used commercially due to low and economically unpractical production in their native hosts (generally plants and microorganisms). Two examples of natural terpenoid production are described (rubber and astaxanthin), but the advent of metabolic engineering has allowed the development of fermentative production processes using heterologous microorganisms. The two biochemical pathways responsible for terpenoid production are described, along with manipulations that enable production of terpenoids at economically viable levels. Finally, this article reviews some terpenoids that are currently in commercial production or development, ranging from semisynthetic production of the antimalarial drug artemisinin, through fragrance molecules, to commodity chemicals such as isoprene and β-farnesene.
... The major compounds found in chestnut leaf extract are rutin, hesperidin, apigenin, quercetin, isoquercitin, galangin, morin, and kaempferol [121,124]. Because of these compounds, this extract will scavenge the free radicals related to oxidative stress included by ultraviolet exposure [125]. By reducing the amount of reactive free oxygen radicals of skin, topical application of chestnut extract can retain the overall appearance of skin. ...
... Although squalene was initially obtained from deep-sea sharks, concerns with biodiversity led to increased research on new natural sources of this compound, and currently most squalane available on the market is plant-derived, mainly from amaranth oil [121,124]. Also, recent advances in biotechnology provided a route of production for a bio-based squalane, by fermentation of sugarcane, a renewable source [125]. Despite these advantages, squalene is unable to substitute some of the properties achieved by petrolatum. ...
... S esquiterpenes are 15-carbon isoprenoids with applications in different markets like flavors, fragrances, cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, foams, lubricants, and biofuels. 1,2 Normally sesquiterpenes are extracted from plants in which they naturally occur. However, this method is costly, presents low yields, and raw materials are usually scarce, resulting in high product prices ranging from ~100 to ~1000 EUR kg −1 . ...
... However, TPI might also require additional purification steps like distillation 10 to meet the purity specifications of some applications (e.g., 92-94% purity for cosmetics). 2 Furthermore, solventproduct separation costs can be reduced by selecting solvents with high vapor pressure; for example methyl-tertbutylether (MTBE), ethyl-acetate, or heptane are typically used at laboratory scale. 8,13 On the other hand, these solvents can be toxic for cells due to their higher solubility in water, compromising the possibility of cell recycling. ...
Sesquiterpenes are a group of versatile, 15‐carbon molecules with applications ranging from fuels to fine chemicals and pharmaceuticals. When produced by microbial fermentation at laboratory scale, solvents are often employed for reducing product evaporation and enhancing recovery. However, it is not clear whether this approach constitutes a favorable techno‐economic alternative at production scale. In this study empirical correlations, mass transfer and process flow sheeting models were used to perform a techno‐economic assessment of solvent‐based processes at scales typical for flavors and fragrances (25 MT year⁻¹) and the fuel market (25 000 MT year⁻¹). Different solvent‐based process options were compared to the current state of the art, which employs surfactants for product recovery. The use of solvents did reduce the sesquiterpene evaporation rate during fermentation and improved product recovery but it resulted in costs that were higher than, or similar to, the base case due to the additional equipment cost for solvent‐product separation. However, when selecting solvents compatible with the final product formulation (e.g. in a kerosene enrichment process), unit costs as low as $0.7 kg⁻¹ can be achieved while decreasing environmental impact. © 2018 The Authors. Biofuels, Bioproducts and Biorefining published by Society of Chemical Industry and John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.
... 16 Farnesene is first converted into isosqualene via catalytic dimerization over a Pd catalyst, and isosqualene is subequently hydrogenated in situ to squalane, producing a composition comprising 92−93% squalane and about 4% isosqualane. 17 Similarly, the most recent methods for the production of phytosqualane from olive oil involve in situ hydrogenation of the as-obtained squalene, avoiding the need to isolate lipophilic and oxidatively unstable squalene. For example, a Spanish patent application 18 describes a process for the production of vegetable squalane in which the acidic pressing residue from the production of olive oil freed from fatty acids by distillation and saponification is hydrogenated, removing the paraffins by freezing to obtain pure phytosqualane by distillation. ...
... The crude product is purified by distillation in two stages, affording a distillate with a squalane purity of about 92−93%. 17 A large number of supported Pd(0) catalysts for heterogeneous CC hydrogenation reactions have been developed and are commercially available, including Pd/C, Pd/CaCO 3 , and Pd/Al 2 O 3 . 31 However, such surface-derivatized catalysts, which are normally used for the synthesis of vitamins and other highly functionalized fine chemicals, 32 rapidly degrade further, adding to the cost of the product. ...
Full hydrogenation of squalene, a natural product, affords squalane, a saturated hydrocarbon whose exceptional properties make it the best emollient known to the cosmetic industry. As new methods to obtain squalene are being developed that replace the use of non-sustainable sources, the development of better hydrogenation processes becomes increasingly important. This study highlights recent progress and identifies open opportunities for further progress.
... 16 Farnesene is first converted into isosqualene via catalytic dimerization over a Pd catalyst, and isosqualene is subequently hydrogenated in situ to squalane, producing a composition comprising 92−93% squalane and about 4% isosqualane. 17 Similarly, the most recent methods for the production of phytosqualane from olive oil involve in situ hydrogenation of the as-obtained squalene, avoiding the need to isolate lipophilic and oxidatively unstable squalene. For example, a Spanish patent application 18 describes a process for the production of vegetable squalane in which the acidic pressing residue from the production of olive oil freed from fatty acids by distillation and saponification is hydrogenated, removing the paraffins by freezing to obtain pure phytosqualane by distillation. ...
... The crude product is purified by distillation in two stages, affording a distillate with a squalane purity of about 92−93%. 17 A large number of supported Pd(0) catalysts for heterogeneous CC hydrogenation reactions have been developed and are commercially available, including Pd/C, Pd/CaCO 3 , and Pd/Al 2 O 3 . 31 However, such surface-derivatized catalysts, which are normally used for the synthesis of vitamins and other highly functionalized fine chemicals, 32 rapidly degrade further, adding to the cost of the product. ...
Full hydrogenation of squalene, a natural product, affords squalane, a saturated hydrocarbon whose exceptional properties make it the best emollient known to the cosmetic industry. As new methods to obtain squalene are getting developed replacing non sustainable sources, the development of better hydrogenation processes becomes increasingly important. This study highlights recent progress and identifies open opportunities for further progress.
... At present, farnesene plays an important role in industry, agriculture, and daily life. In industrial production, farnesene is used in lubricants, surfactants, and cosmetics due to its superior properties [43]. Farnesene also can be used as a precursor of vitamin E, which promotes the industrial synthesis of vitamin E [44]. ...
Essential oils, comprised of volatile compounds, have a wide range of biological effects, making them valuable in medicine, industry, and agriculture. They exhibit properties such as antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, antiviral, antioxidant, anti-obesity, antidiabetic, and smooth muscle relaxation. In this aspect, plants belonging to the genus Angelica show promise. One of these essential oil plants is Angelica archangelica. There is insufficient information in the literature on the essential oils of the leaves and rhizomes with roots of Angelica archangelica. The aim. The aim of our study was to identify and determine the quantitative content of essential oils by GC/MS method in Angelica archangelica leaves and rhizomes with roots grown in Ukraine. Materials and methods. The determination of the essential oils composition of Angelica archangelica was conducted using Agilent Technologies 6890 chromatograph with mass spectrometric detector 5973 (Agilent Technologies, USA). Results. The leaves of Angelica archangelica were found to contain twenty-three components in their essential oil, while the rhizomes and roots of this plant contained fifteen components. Eleven components were common to both parts of the plant, namely cis-Pinane, α-Farnesene, α-Curcumene, α-Caryophyllene, Copaen, β-Bisabolene, δ-Amorphene, α-Muurolene, trans-Chrysanthemal, β-Guaiene, α-Elemene. Twelve components such as α-Pinene, β-Myrcene, 3-p-Menthene, Isoborneol, Anisole, Bornyl acetate, (Z)-β-Elemene, Caryophyllene, (-)-Spathulenol, α-Bergamotene, γ-Muurolene, α-Bisabolol were present only in leaves, and four components namely p-Isopropenylacetophenone, β-Cubebene, α-Zingiberene, Hexahydrofarnesyl acetone were present only in rhizomes with roots. Conclusions. The component composition of the essential oil in the leaves and the rhizomes with roots of Angelica archangelica growing in Ukraine was investigated using the GS/MC method. We have defined for the first time the chemical composition of the essential oils of the leaves of Angelica archangelica, 23 components of essential oil were identified. In the rhizomes with roots, 15 components of essential oils were identified. The following pharmacologically important components, cis-Pinane and α-Farnesene, were found in both samples of the essential oil of Angelica archangelica in significant quantities. These results have been cross-analyzed and are particularly important for planning and defining the process of cultivation and use of this species plant in traditional and official medicine
... Most hydrocarbons are petroleum-based, like paraffin oil for example which is composed of a mixture of ramified alkanes, obtained after distillation and fractionation of crude petroleum, 37,38 but some hydrocarbons can also be obtained from renewable resources. 39,40 Fatty esters, which can be biobased, are also largely used as silicone-like emollients. 41,42 The originality of this study is the association of (1) the development of a new family of biobased molecules from ferulic acid with respect to green chemistry principles and (2) the characterization of these molecules from their protective properties to their complex and various emollient characteristics in terms of texture and interaction with skin. ...
The use of several ingredients in cosmetic formulations can often result in long ingredient lists, which can be daunting for consumers. While each of these particular ingredients serves a purpose, some are petroleum-based and may have adverse effects on the environment and human health. Ferulic acid, a p-hydroxycinnamic acid present in numerous agro-industrial byproducts, exhibits antimicrobial, antioxidant, and UV-filtering properties. In this work, ferulic acid was functionalized through chemoenzymatic reaction steps (80 to 93% isolated yields) applying green chemistry principles, by using various natural fatty alcohols. The resulting compounds have demonstrated good emollient properties through physicochemical and spreading evaluations. Two green metrics (Mass Intensity and Ecoscale) were used to assess the synthesis of these novel emollients, which were found to have a very low environmental impact. The findings of this study could provide a novel solution for multifunctional, biobased ingredients in cosmetic formulations while reducing the environmental impact of the products.
... Currently, the production of squalene from plants, in particular from olive oil, has been established; however, phytosqualene accounts for only half of the world market, which does not compensate for the volume of squalene obtained from sharks and creates the need to develop more cost-effective technologies for its production [18]. One of the leading directions in this field is the microbiological production of squalene by cellular and genetic engineering of bacteria and yeast that accumulate squalene [19][20][21][22]. However, mass application of this technology requires a large amount of money and time. ...
Turpentine oil, owing to the presence of 7–50 terpenes, has analgesic, anti-inflammatory, immunomodulatory, antibacterial, anticoagulant, antioxidant, and antitumor properties, which are important for medical emulsion preparation. The addition of turpentine oil to squalene emulsions can increase their effectiveness, thereby reducing the concentration of expensive and possibly deficient squalene, and increasing its stability and shelf life. In this study, squalene emulsions were obtained by adding various concentrations of turpentine oil via high-pressure homogenization, and the safety and effectiveness of the obtained emulsions were studied in vitro and in vivo. All emulsions showed high safety profiles, regardless of the concentration of turpentine oil used. However, these emulsions exhibited dose-dependent effects in terms of both efficiency and storage stability, and the squalene emulsion with 1.0% turpentine oil had the most pronounced adjuvant and cytokine-stimulating activity as well as the most pronounced stability indicators when stored at room temperature. Thus, it can be concluded that the squalene emulsion with 1% turpentine oil is a stable, monomodal, and reliably safe ultradispersed emulsion and may have pleiotropic effects with pronounced immunopotentiating properties.
... Xu et al. engineered Rhodopseudomonas palustris to use as a host organism for squalene production due to its natural ability to grow photosynthetically [39]. The biotechnology company Apprinova has commercialized Brazilian-sugar-cane-derived squalene under the trade name Neossance, which is a stable and lot-to-lot consistent, highly pure hydrocarbon, as opposed to natural-based squalene from plants (olive) or animals (shark) which typically has high levels of impurities [40]. Microbial processes relying on metabolically engineered Yarrowia lipolytica and S. cerevisiae strains can overcome the limitations of native producers (slow growth and low titers) [41]. ...
The cosmetic segment is a rapidly growing industry that has been challenged in recent years due to the origin and impact of its ingredients and manufacturing techniques. With a focus on reducing carbon dioxide emissions and improving the degradability of products, many conventional ingredients are being dismissed to meet more exigent regulations and consumer ethical demands. Biotechnology, and fermentation as the core technology, is a solution to support and drive more sustainable growth for the cosmetic industry. This review presents the latest research and development in fermentation applied to cosmetics and showcases multiple examples throughout all classes of ingredients: from functional compounds, such as oil and surfactants, to multi-faceted molecules with a wide spectrum of formulations and skin benefits derived from their emulsifying, antimicrobial or antioxidant properties. The bottlenecks associated with the commercialization of such ingredients, together with successful examples, are also discussed. The shift towards a bio-based beauty industry requires a combination of technical, regulatory and marketing efforts. Fermentation strategies to better utilize low-cost substrates and optimize microorganisms and processes will reduce overall costs, reducing the price gap with traditional methods of production. The testing, standardization and regulation of these new ingredients need to catch up with the fast research happening in the field. Finally, consumer communication is key to achieve a successful introduction of biotech ingredients in the market.
... Nevertheless, With growing concerns around the depletion of wild sharks, 13,17 industries are likely to move toward squalene from genetically engineered organisms, such as yeast and bacteria. 18 The VidPrevtyn Beta vaccine is also the recommended vaccine for patients that are allergic to mRNA vaccines such as Pfizer and Moderna. An allergic reaction to mRNA vaccines could result in anaphylactic reactions such as experiencing abdominal cramps, fast heart rate, swollen eyes and face, red itchy rashes, wheezing, and fainting. ...
From April 3rd onward, People aged 75 years and older, residents in care homes for older people, and those aged 5 years and over with a weakened immune system will be offered a booster of COVID-19 vaccine this spring. A dose of Sanofi’s VidPrevtyn Beta COVID-19 vaccine will be offered by the NHS for free. Family members consequently might consult medical and Islamic sources. For all parties involved in the decision-making process, an informed decision is crucial.
... Subsequently, S. cerevisiae was engineered to produce the sesquiterpene β-farnesene ((6E)-7,11-dimethyl-3-methylidenedodeca-1,6,10-triene) by fermentation at high yield and productivity 9 , leading to its commercial manufacture 10 . A major commercial product derived from β-farnesene by semi-synthesis is high-purity (92-94% with >99% saturated triterpene content) squalane, which provides a sustainable, renewable source of this emollient for the cosmetic market and displaces shark-derived squalane, manufactured by hydrogenation of shark-derived squalene 11 . ...
Synthetic biology has allowed for the industrial production of supply-limited sesquiterpenoids such as the antimalarial drug artemisinin and β-farnesene. One of the only unmodified animal products used in medicine is squalene, a triterpenoid derived from shark liver oil, which when formulated into an emulsion is used as a vaccine adjuvant to enhance immune responses in licensed vaccines. However, overfishing is depleting deep-sea shark populations, leading to potential supply problems for squalene. We chemically generated over 20 squalene analogues from fermentation-derived β-farnesene and evaluated adjuvant activity of the emulsified compounds compared to shark squalene emulsion. By employing a desirability function approach that incorporated multiple immune readouts, we identified analogues with enhanced, equivalent, or decreased adjuvant activity compared to shark squalene emulsion. Availability of a library of structurally related analogues allowed elucidation of structure-function relationships. Thus, combining industrial synthetic biology with chemistry and immunology enabled generation of sustainable terpenoid-based vaccine adjuvants comparable to current shark squalene-based adjuvants while illuminating structural properties important for adjuvant activity.
... Synthetic biology applications can affect conservation through a variety of existing and potential new pathways (Graphical Abstract), with both intended and unintended impacts on biodiversity (Figure 1). The tools and techniques of synthetic biology, from gene and genome editing using CRISPR-Cas9, to site-directed mutagenesis, gene synthesis, transgenesis, and gene drives, may be useful in addressing conservation challenges such as invasive alien species , wildlife trade McPhee et al., 2014), and disease (Novak et al., 2018), although with the potential for serious adverse effects as well. At the same time, efforts are underway to change the production methods and raw materials used for consumer products, like Omega-3 oils (Sprague et al., 2017), vanillin (Bomgardner, 2016), and others, which may change patterns of land use and nature-based supply chains in ways that may be harmful or beneficial to biodiversity (Redford et al., 2019). ...
The world’s biodiversity is in crisis. Synthetic biology has the potential to transform biodiversity conservation, both directly and indirectly, in ways that are negative and positive. However, applying these biotechnology tools to environmental questions is fraught with uncertainty and could harm cultures, rights, livelihoods and nature. Decisions about whether or not to use synthetic biology for conservation should be understood alongside the reality of ongoing biodiversity loss. In 2022, the 196 Parties to the United Nations Convention on Biological Diversity are negotiating the post-2020 Global Biodiversity Framework that will guide action by governments and other stakeholders for the next decade to conserve the worlds’ biodiversity. To date, synthetic biologists, conservationists, and policy makers have operated in isolation. At this critical time, this review brings these diverse perspectives together and emerges out of the need for a balanced and inclusive examination of the potential application of these technologies to biodiversity conservation.
... After the isolation and purification of squalene, different hydrogenation methods are implemented in order to obtain a completely saturated squalane (Table 1). [25] Shark liver oil is considered to be the richest source of squalene (79.6% of liver oil of Centrophorus squamosus) [21]. However, for the preservation of marine life, researchers are looking for new natural sources of squalene-especially from plant oil. ...
Amaranth (Amaranthus cruentus) is a possible alternative to high-nutritional-value crops. Amaranth seeds are considered to be one of the few sources of phytosqualene (up to 8%). The use of squalene and its hydrogenated form squalane in skincare formulations has been steadily increasing, and the demand for these compounds is expected to rise continuously. The aim of this study was to investigate the amaranth oilseed as a potential ingredient for cosmetic applications. First, an experimental design and optimization were carried out in order to obtain amaranth oil rich in squalane instead of squalene through catalytic hydrogenation. Under the optimal conditions, the resulting oil was fully hydrogenated, with higher stability, and more suitable for cosmetic uses. Furthermore, the effect of the addition of amaranth oil and squalane on the rheological and sensory characteristics of moisturizing cream formulations was assessed. As expected, higher contents of oil and polyunsaturated fatty acids were obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction, and were used for the next step of the experiment. Optimization of the experimental conditions resulted in fully hydrogenated amaranth oil, with higher stability and rich in squalane. Better quality of moisturizing cream formulations was achieved when W/O formulations were enriched with 2% oil, or by adding 1% oil and 1% squalane. The formulation rich in squalane showed a better overall quality compared to other formulations.
... Due to its high viscosity (η = 28.1 mPa.s) and its non-volatility (BP ≈ 420 • C), squalane is claimed for its occlusive properties, that help to strengthen the skin barrier function and maintain skin hydration. Squalane can also be obtained from sugar cane by biotechnology [44]. The same method is also applied to produce farnesene 22 and farnesane (or hemisqualane) 7 after hydrogenation. ...
Emollient oils are ubiquitous ingredients of personal care products, especially skin care and hair care formulations. They offer excellent spreading properties and give end-use products a soft, pleasant and non-sticky after-feel. Emollients belong to various petro- or bio-based chemical families among which silicone oils, hydrocarbons and esters are the most prominent. Silicones have exceptional physicochemical and sensory properties but their high chemical stability results in very low biodegradability and a high bioaccumulation potential. Nowadays, consumers are increasingly responsive to environmental issues and demand more environmentally friendly products. This awareness strongly encourages cosmetics industries to develop bio-based alternatives to silicone oils. Finding effective silicon-free emollients requires understanding the molecular origin of emollience. This review details the relationships between the molecular structures of emollients and their physicochemical properties as well as the resulting functional performances in order to facilitate the design of alternative oils with suitable physicochemical and sensory properties. The molecular profile of an ideal emollient in terms of chemical function (alkane, ether, ester, carbonate, alcohol), optimal number of carbons and branching is established to obtain an odourless oil with good spreading on the skin. Since none of the carbon-based emollients alone can imitate the non-sticky and dry feel of silicone oils, it is judicious to blend alkanes and esters to significantly improve both the sensory properties and the solubilizing properties of the synergistic mixture towards polar ingredients (sun filters, antioxidants, fragrances). Finally, it is shown how modelling tools (QSPR, COSMO-RS and neural networks) can predict in silico the key properties of hundreds of virtual candidate molecules in order to synthesize only the most promising whose predicted properties are close to the specifications.
... Although squalene was initially obtained from deep-sea sharks, concerns with biodiversity led to increased research on new natural sources of this compound, and currently most squalane available on the market is plant-derived, mainly from amaranth oil [121,124]. Also, recent advances in biotechnology provided a route of production for a bio-based squalane, by fermentation of sugarcane, a renewable source [125]. Despite these advantages, squalene is unable to substitute some of the properties achieved by petrolatum. ...
... The so-called 'active ingredients' in a lipstick are ingredients which provide additional benefit to the skin during the long stay of the trace onto the skin. They have been selected in order to obtain moisturizing and firming properties (Tables 11 and 12) [11,12]: Below, is the final formula created (Formula 1/21/18) with its manufacturing method. Manufacturing method: ...
The strategy to adopt for the development of a new lipstick formula requires, as a first step, the definition of the most important characteristics of a modern product. Successively, the identification of the key properties of any innovative ingredient is necessary. Then, a comprehension of the key parameters in the establishment of a stable equilibrium among the different formula components in the solid state is important. Moreover, it is necessary to study the interactions among the new ingredients and the other structural components in the formula. Finally, an evaluation of the sensory properties of the different final formulae for fine-tuning of practical performances needs to be carefully carried out. In this study, a systematic formulation approach tried to obtain a new lipstick formula using a new vegetal-derived emollient *(INCLUDING COCO-CAPRYLATE/CAPRATE, HYDROGENATED OLIVE OIL UNSAPONIFIABLES) with sensorial properties similar to some types of silicones. Some application trials of the new raw material were carried out. The following aspects of this ingredient were investigated: (1) Compatibility and thickening with waxes, (2) dispersion power of pigments, and (3) influence on sensory characteristics of the formulated lipstick. This new emollient has been shown to improve some aspects of a lipstick formula, in particular shine, homogeneity, and covering effect. The optimization of the formula, in order to increase the sensation of softness on the lips, is described. *Plantasens Olive LD SP ECO, supplier Clariant Gmbh.
... Farnesene is biosynthesized from farnesyl pyrophosphate (FPP), which is produced via the condensation of two isomers, dimethylallyl pyrophosphate and isopentenyl pyrophosphate (IPP), when the isomers are synthesized within the deoxyxylulose 5-phosphate (DXP) pathway or the mevalonate (MVA) pathway. 1 In nature, farnesene has been found in plants, such as Artemisia annua, in which it plays a role in plant defense. 2 At the industrial level, farnesene can be applied in many industrial products, 3 such as cosmetic oils, 4 polymers, 5 lubricants, 6 surfactants, 7 and biofuels. 8 While the methods of producing farnesene by chemical synthesis and plant extraction face the problems of a low yield, small quantities, and high cost, which are not suitable for industrial production, microbial production of farnesene from renewable carbon sources is an attractive route. ...
... To protect biodiversity, the interest in finding new natural sources increased and most squalane on the market is now from vegetable sources, as amaranth oil (Alander, 2012;He et al., 2002;Huang et al., 2009;Popa et al., 2015). Also, recent advances in biotechnology provided a route of production for a bio-based squalane, maintaining its performance but made through fermentation of sugar-derived feedstock, a renewable source (Mcphee et al., 2014). Unquestionably, to find sustainable alternatives for the ingredients within this group is not easy. ...
In recent years, sustainability on the cosmetics industry has received growing interest from consumers, cosmetics industries and organizations, as well as academics from various disciplinary fields. Increasing concerns about cosmetics safety, environmental impacts as deforestation and social impacts as those resulting from unfair trade have intensified attention given to such topic. While sustainability impacts occur through all phases of the cosmetic product life cycle, selection of raw materials is deserving of greater attention as information on this topic remains scattered and diffuse. Formulating with alternative ingredients considered more sustainable can be quite challenging due to possible lack of performance, instability and aesthetic limitations normally associated with their use. This paper discusses the relation between sustainability and the cosmetics industry, the factors stimulating the developments on this field, the need to assess those and the available tools, alongside with the sustainability impacts produced during all the product life cycle. The analysis reveals cosmetics sustainability as a complex and multifaceted issue that cannot be evaluated considering single aspects, but using an integrated assessment about the environmental, social and economical dimensions and about the final product quality and performance.
... Farnesene produces odourless and stable squalene with high C 30 hydrocarbon contents (>99 %). Hence, farnesene is used in commercial scale manufacturing of squalene, a cost-effective component of various cosmetic formulations [161]. ...
Background
Farnesol is an acyclic sesquiterpene alcohol, endogenously synthesized via the ergosterol pathway. It is a quorum sensing molecule (QSM) that was first discovered in C. albicans, and is involved in the inhibition of hyphae formation.
Methods
This review focuses on the comprehensive details of occurrence, chemical/biological synthesis of farnesol and its derivatives, and the factors involved in the regulation of their production. Further, the review also presents their cellular functions and diversified biomedical applications.
Results
Large-scale production of farnesol can be achieved using chemical synthesis and metabolic engineering approach. Farnesol is involved in the regulation of various physiological processes including filamentation, biofilm development, drug efflux, and apoptosis, etc. Farnesol and its derivatives/ analogues have also been reported to exhibit anti-biofilm, anti-cancer, anti-tumor and fungicidal properties. The antimicrobial potential of farnesol has been enhanced by synergizing it with known antifungal drugs, and also through nano-formulation(s).
Conclusion
Apart from its quorum sensing activity, farnesol can be used as an effective anti-microbial, anti-inflammatory, ant-allergic, anti-cancerous, and anti-obesity agent.
... As it happened with triterpenoid squalene, which is currently mostly obtained from sugarcane fermentation rather than from shark liver oil or from olive oil distillates, 25 the bottleneck of limited supply of limonene needs to be solved by innovation in biotechnology. ...
Limonene epoxide (1,2-limonene oxide) readily reacts with carbon dioxide inserted in a ring-opening copolymerization reaction and forms polycarbonates of exceptional chemical and physical properties. Both poly(limonene carbonate) and poly(limonene dicarbonate) can be synthesized using low-cost Zn or Al homogeneous catalysts. This study addresses selected relevant questions concerning the technical and economic feasibility of limonene and carbon dioxide polymers en route to the bioeconomy.
... In reality, however, turbulent mixing conditions in the reactor and the presence of surface-active components (SACs) in the fermentation broth (e.g., salts, glycolipids, proteins, cells and cells debris) disperse the product phase forming an emulsion of small stable oil droplets ( Figure 1B). Reported recovery methods at large scale require using costly surfactants and changes of temperature [2], which might compromise the purity specifications [3], increase costs, and prevent cellular recycling by affecting cell viability [4]. Although the need for a low-cost demulsification process might be more relevant in the case of applications with tight economic margins such as biofuels, the problem of recovery of microbial emulsions is not new. ...
In multiphase fermentations where the product forms a second liquid phase or where solvents are added for product extraction, turbulent conditions disperse the oil phase as droplets. Surface-active components (SACs) present in the fermentation broth can stabilize the product droplets thus forming an emulsion. Breaking this emulsion increases process complexity and consequently the production cost. In previous works, it has been proposed to promote demulsification of oil/supernatant emulsions in an off-line batch bubble column operating at low gas flow rate. The aim of this study is to test the performance of this recovery method integrated to a fermentation, allowing for continuous removal of the oil phase.
... Squalane is traditionally obtained via hydrogenation of the triterpene squalene from shark liver, but more recently a process was developed where plant sugar is converted via genetically engineered yeast into trans-ß-farnesene, 23 which is dimerized and subsequently hydrogenated to squalane. 24 In a second study, sustainable fillers have been investigated as replacements for standard carbon black and inert mineral fillers. Pyrolysis black was evaluated versus standard furnace black. ...
In relation to COVID-19, from April 3rd onward people aged 75 years and older, residents in care homes for older people, and those aged 5 years and over with a weakened immune system [were] offered a booster of coronavirus (COVID-19) vaccine [in] spring’.1 A dose of Sanofi’s VidPrevtyn Beta COVID-19 vaccine is being offered by the NHS for free.2 The elderly in our communities who face language barriers with regard to the details of the vaccine are likely to seek the opinion of their children and grandchildren. There are nearly 12 million (11,989,322) people aged 65 and above in the UK of which 5.4 million people are aged 75+; 1.6 million are aged 85+; Over 500,000 people are 90+ (579,776); and 14,430 are centenarians.3 Family members consequently might consult medical and Islamic sources. For all parties involved in the decision-making process, an informed decision is crucial.
La croissance démographique, la consommation incontrôlée des ressources naturelles ainsi que l’activité industrielle jouent un rôle déterminant dans la dégradation de l'environnement mondial. A ce sujet et en se basant sur le concept que les consommateurs partagent la responsabilité de la pollution et de l'épuisement des ressources et leur coût, la mise en oeuvre des ressources renouvelables dans les processus industriels apparait comme une clé décisive. La renouvelabilité, la recyclabilité, la durabilité, la biodégradabilité sont les concepts de base sur lesquels nous pouvons compter pour protéger la nature et l’environnement. Dans ce contexte, une nouvelle approche de la bioraffinage a été développée dans cette thèse, elle a été appliquée à cinq espèces appartenant à 3 familles différentes (Foeniculum vulagre, Cuminum cyminum and Carum carvi (Apiaceae), Salvia hispania (Lamiaceae) et Amaranthus cruentus (Amaranthaceae)). Ces espèces partagent une caractéristique commune, elles peuvent être définies comme Aroma Tincto Oleo Crops (ATOC) puisqu’elles sont une source d'huile végétale et d'huile essentielle (ou de colorant). Notre objectif est donc de déterminer la faisabilité biologique et technologique de l'application du concept ATOC-bioraffinage basé sur le développement, l'optimisation et la production de nouveaux produits biologiques, des nouvelles molécules biosourcées et d'autres technologies innovantes. Notre étude met l'accent sur l'évaluation de divers paramètres influençant le rendement et la qualité de l’huile dans les graines d'ATOC, y compris leurs origines géographiques et le procédé d'extraction, et leur impact sur l'activité biologique des extraits de résidus. La valorisation des huiles pour des applications dans l’industrie cosmétique a été realisée en les utilisant comme (i) additifs dans des formulations de crème hydratante. De plus, l’utilité du tourteau d'extraction comme (ii) substrat pour la fabrication d'agromatériaux par thermopressage et comme (iii) un ingrédient dans des formulations de pain de blé entier a été examinée.
ResearchGate has not been able to resolve any references for this publication.