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Topical niacinamide provides skin aging appearance benefits while enhancing barrier function
... Levels of Ceramide EOS and NP increased at the treated site with respect to the untreated area, but the changes were not statistically significant (Table 2 and Figure 2d,e). Topically applied niacinamide has been widely reported for improving skin barrier function [32][33][34]. The effect is dose dependant to a certain extent, with TEWL improvement increasing as the percentage of niacinamide in the formulation increases [35]. ...
... Glycerine has shown anti-irritation activity in both in vitro and in vivo testing, including anti-irritation activity against surfactants such as sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) [53], and to have wound healing activity [54]. Niacinamide has been reported to provide antimicrobial benefits [55], reduce skin redness after SLS patch testing [33], offer protection against oxidative stress from exposure of skin cells to particular matter from pollution [56], to enhance the repair rate of DNA in keratinocytes after UV damage [57] and to be beneficial against acne [58] and rosacea [59]. ...
Objective
The development of dry skin is a complex process, with a wide variety of factors each playing different roles in its evolution. Given this, it is important when designing a formulation to tackle dry skin that these varied aspects of skin behaviour are addressed. Presented here are the results of a 3 week moisturization study carried out on dry legs. A wide range of traditional and more recently developed biophysical measurement methods have been combined with visual assessment of skin condition to enable multiple aspects of skin function to be determined. The observed changes in the skin are discussed in terms of the ingredients used in the moisturising formulation.
Methods
A range of novel and traditional skin assessment methods and techniques were used to assess the effects of an oil in water based moisturizing product compared to an untreated site during a 3 week in vivo study on dry lower leg skin.
Results
Statistically significant improvements were observed in a range of skin parameters as a result of product usage. Skin hydration assessed using Corneometer®, Epsilon® and visual dry skin grading all increased after 3 weeks of use. Skin barrier function measured using transepidermal water loss also improved. Levels of cholesterol, free fatty acids, and Ceramide NH increased, as well as the average length of the stratum corneum (SC) lipid lamella bilayers, and the ratio of lipid to protein increased (measured using Lipbarvis® and in vivo Confocal Raman Spectroscopy). Increases in the levels of Ceramide EOS and NP were also observed, along with an improvement in corneocyte maturity, although these were not statistically significant.
Conclusions
Using a range of traditional and novel skin assessment techniques, a wide range of factors associated with the evolution of dry skin have been assessed upon treatment with a new topical moisturizer. Product usage resulted in a significant improvement in skin hydration and barrier function, levels and morphology of SC barrier lipids, and overall epidermal differentiation. This resulted in significant improvement in the factors associated with the development of dry skin.
... 45 In addition to the antioxidant effects of niacinamide, it has also been well-documented to reduce skin yellowing, hyperpigmentation, erythema and blotchiness, as well as improving the epidermal barrier and reducing fine lines and wrinkles. [46][47][48][49] Bissett et al 46 validated that niacinamide is well-tolerated, easily formulated, and chemically stable, making it an ideal agent to formulate cosmeceutical products. ...
... 14,50,51 Lastly, niacinamide increases both the lipid and protein components of the stratum corneum subsequently reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increasing the skin's barrier properties. 49 Levin et al 15 summarized niacinamide as one of the best studied cosmeceutical ingredients for anti-aging. ...
There is a growing demand for noninvasive anti-aging products for which the periorbital region serves as a critical aspect of facial rejuvenation. This article reviews a multitude of cosmeceutical ingredients that have good scientific data, specifically for the periorbital region. Topical treatment options have exponentially grown from extensively studied retinoids, to recently developed technology, such as growth factors and peptides. With a focus on the periorbital anatomy, the authors review the mechanisms of action of topical cosmeceutical ingredients, effectiveness of ingredient penetration through the stratum corneum, and validity of clinical trials.
... 51,52 The mechanisms by which niacinamide provides this array of skin benefits is not completely understood, but the role of niacinamide as a precursor to the NADP family of coenzymes may play a significant role in all of these improvements. 50 Antioxidant capacity. Niacinamide increases the antioxidant capacity of skin after topical application by increasing the reduced forms (NADPH), which have potent antioxidant properties. ...
... The mechanism by which redness/blotchiness is improved may be related to the improved skin barrier function for reasons discussed above. 50,60,61 Increased barrier function may mean less irritation and redness when the skin encounters environmental insults, such as detergents and soaps, and hence less reddening of the skin. However, this theory has not been substantiated. ...
To date, we are unaware of a review that has investigated common cosmeceutical ingredients in order to answer the three specific questions proposed by the father of cosmeceuticals, Dr. Albert Kligman. It is the goal of this review to gather all the published scientific data on five common cosmeceutical ingredients, answer the three major questions about the scientific rationale for their use, and ascertain how much we really know about consumers' favorite cosmeceutical ingredients.Most of the research concerning cosmeceutical retinoid ingredients is based upon the effects of retinoic acid on the skin. Clinical trials concerning retinol and retinaldehyde are scant and lacking in statistical evaluation for significance. There is research substantiating the effects of kinetin in plants and also in-vitro antioxidant effects. However, proof of anti-aging activity remains elusive, and the clinical efficacy of kinetin is based on limited data. Niacinamide is the ingredient investigated that most closely upholds the "Kligman standards" of cosmeceutical-ingredient analysis. With the available scientific evidence on topical niacinamide, clinicians are able to adequately answer questions about permeability, mechanism, and clinical effect. Both green tea and soy have been popularized commercially based on their antioxidant effects, yet there is a paucity of clinical studies concerning their efficacy as topical anti-aging agents. It may be that soy and green tea are better at preventing the signs and symptoms of skin aging than actually reversing them. Since cosmeceutical products are claiming to therapeutically affect the structure and function of the skin, it is rational and necessary to hold them to specified scientific standards that substantiate efficacy claims.
... It has been proposed that this compound has multiple effects on the epidermis (Greatens et al. 2005). The use of topical niacinamide enhances the appearance of photoaged facial skin (Bissett et al. 2003;Bissett et al. 2004;Bissett et al. 2005). In addition, this molecule inhibits the transfer of melanosomes to keratinocytes both in vitro and in vivo. ...
Hyperpigmentation is a prevalent skin condition characterized by darkened patches or spots on the skin. Melanin, which is a pigment responsible for skin, hair, and eye coloration, can accumulate or be overproduced, leading to aesthetic concerns and potential health issues associated with hyperpigmentation. Skin lightening refers to using natural or synthetic products to reduce melanin levels and achieve a more even skin tone. While traditional depigmenting agents such as hydroquinone, corticosteroids, and kojic acid are effective, they raise safety concerns with prolonged use, including ochronosis, atrophy, carcinogenesis, and other side effects. Exploring the benefits of natural and botanical extracts offers opportunities for developing new products to address pigmentation issues. Active compounds derived from plants, such as arbutin, aloesin, gentisic acid, flavonoids, hesperidin, licorice, niacinamide, yeast derivatives, and polyphenols, have been found to inhibit melanin production without harming melanocytes through various mechanisms. This chapter provides an overview of the current trends in utilizing plant extracts as topical treatments for hyperpigmentation disorders, emphasizing significant natural extracts and secondary metabolites, along with in vitro screening results and relevant clinical trial findings supporting their efficacy.
... 25,26 Niacinamide increases both the lipid (ceramide) and protein (keratin, involucrin, filaggrin) components of the skin barrier and enhances the skin barrier properties, which may improve red blotchiness. 30,31 Further, niacinamide has been demonstrated to inhibit melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes and promote skin lightening in vivo. 32 The mechanism by which elasticity improves is not defined, but dermal remodeling (as evidenced by the observed increases in skin collagen) and prevention of dermal matrix glycation may be contributory factors. ...
Background: Sensitive skin affects an increasingly large proportion of the population and is less tolerant to frequent and prolonged use of cosmetics. This study investigates the antiaging effects of a skin care system developed for use on sensitive skin.
Methods: A total of 30 healthy Caucasian females, aged 32–72, were enrolled in this double-blind randomized placebo-controlled split-face study. A routine consisting of twice daily topical applications of the test cleanser and test moisturizer or placebo or positive control products was followed for 28 days, with parameters measured at baseline and at 7-day intervals. Objective skin assessments for hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin surface topography, elasticity and safety assessment were conducted.
Results: Wrinkle surface, length and depth significantly improved by 34.8±4.7% (P<0.001), 19.0±3.2% (P<0.05) and 24.3±3.5% (P<0.05), respectively, after 28 days of skin care treatment with the test cleanser and test moisturizer. R2 (gross elasticity), R5 (net elasticity) and R7 (biological elasticity) significantly increased by 32.8±6.5% (P<0.001), 47.3±8.6% (P<0.001) and 50.6±5.1% (P<0.001), respectively, while R6 (viscoelastic portion) significantly decreased by 33.4±4.6% (P<0.001) after 28 days. Skin hydration was also found to increase significantly after 28 days by 42.2±8.5% (P<0.01), but there was no change in TEWL. No adverse events were reported.
Conclusions: A novel skin care routine developed for use on sensitive skin significantly improves the signs of aging including hydration, wrinkle size and elasticity without significant adverse effects.
... [18] Nicotinamide can improve the overall structure, moisture, and elasticity of skin as it increases the synthesis of collagen and proteins that play an important role in the formation of keratin, filaggrin, and involucrin. [19] Through these functions, nicotinamide has the potential to alter the disease processes associated with atopic eczema. ...
Background:
Evidence that atopic eczema partly originates in utero is increasing, with some studies linking the risk of developing the condition with aspects of maternal diet during pregnancy. Nicotinamide, a naturally occurring nutrient that is maintained through the dietary intakes of vitamin B3 and tryptophan, has been used in the treatment of some skin conditions including atopic eczema.
Objective:
To examine the relation of maternal serum concentrations of nicotinamide and related tryptophan metabolites to the risk of atopic eczema in the offspring.
Methods:
Within the UK Southampton Women Survey, infantile atopic eczema at ages 6 and 12 months was ascertained (modified UK Working Party Criteria for the Definition of Atopic Dermatitis). Maternal serum levels of kynurenine, kynurenic acid, anthranilic acid, tryptophan, nicotinamide and N1-methylnicotinamide were measured in late pregnancy by mass spectrometry (n = 497) and related to the odds ratio of infantile atopic eczema.
Results:
Maternal nicotinamide and related metabolite concentrations were not associated with offspring atopic eczema at age 6 months. Higher concentrations of nicotinamide and anthranilic acid were, however, associated with a lower risk of eczema at age 12 months (odds ratios 0.69, 95% CI 0.53-0.91/SD change, P = 0.007 and 0.63, 0.48-0.83, P = 0.001, respectively). The associations were robust to adjustment for potentially confounding variables.
Conclusion and clinical relevance:
This is the first study linking maternal serum concentrations of nicotinamide and related metabolites to the risk of atopic eczema in the offspring. The findings point to potentially modifiable maternal influences on this complex and highly prevalent condition.
... A range of in vivo benefits have been reported from topical application, including prevention of photoimmunosuppression and photocarcinogenesis [18], prevention of the loss of dermal collagen consistent with photoageing [19], reduction in acne severity [20] and improvement in bullous pemphigoid [21]. More recent studies [22][23][24][25] have noted additional beneficial effects of topical niacinamide in ageing skin, such as improved barrier function, decreased appearance of signs of facial photoageing (e.g. texture, hyperpigmented spots, red blotchiness) and reduced sebum production. ...
AbstrcatObjective
To investigate the effects of topical application of a Gold Silk Sericin (GSS) complex on biophysical parameters related to skin ageing.MethodsA range of non-invasive bioengineering methods were deployed in an 8 week randomised, double-blinded, vehicle-controlled, split-face study among 40 female subjects aged 40-70. Endpoints measured included expert grades of skin condition, stratum corneum (SC) hydration, SC barrier function, elasticity and surface topography.ResultsThe GSS complex produced significant single-variable (p<0.05) improvements in SC hydration, barrier function, elasticity and surface topography compared with the Vehicle Control.Conclusion
The GSS Complex examined in this present study represents an interesting new cosmetic topical technology with which to address multiple aspects of aged / photoaged female facial skin.This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.
... • Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) is utilized in numerous topical cosmetic products to provide beneficial effects for a wide array of common skin problems such as those associated with aging and photoaging, e.g., dryness, red blotchiness, hyperpigmentation, texture problems and fine lines/wrinkles (1)(2)(3)(4). A general mechanism for niacinamide is as a precursor to the important cofactors nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD), its phosphate derivative (NADP), and their reduced forms (NADH and NADPH). ...
... In-vivo-Untersuchungen etwa belegen, dass mit einer fünfprozentigen Niacinamid-Creme feine Falten, Hyperpigmentierungen und Hautrötungen als Zeichen der Altershaut signifikant gemindert werden [43][44][45]. ...
... Recent, doubleblind, vehicle-controlled studies were able to demonstrate that a three-month application with a skin care product with 5 % Niacinamide reduces typical signs of aging such as hyperpigmentation, skin redness, lentigines seniles, yellow discolorations of the skin and the size of pores. In addition, while having good skin compatibility, niacinamide leads to a significant improvement of the skin elasticity and fine lines [190][191][192][193][194]. By activation of the serinpalmitoyltransferase and an increased production of free fatty acids, cholesterol and ceramides, the topical application lowers the transepidermal water loss and stabilizes the epidermal barrier. ...
... Well-tolerated in topical form, niacinamide has been shown to improve skin barrier by increasing lipids and epidermal protein. 7 This action leaves skin more resistant to irritation and blotchiness, most likely by decreasing water loss from skin. Niacinamide also reduces facial dyspigmentation via a mechanism that inhibits melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes. ...
Cosmeceuticals represent a new category of products placed between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals that are intended for the enhancement of both the health and beauty of skin. Encompassing an ever-increasing part of the skin care industry, cosmeceuticals are formulated from a multitude of ingredients, the main categories of which are discussed in this article. Given the growing interest in these products among patients and the strong claims made by manufacturers, it is important that physicians recognize these agents and understand their benefits, limitations, and potential adverse effects.
... Niacinamide’s role as a co-enzyme precursor may explain the multiple roles it has in skin, but this is not clearly defined [82,94]. Topical niacinamide is described to have several benefits on aging skin including but not limited to improved barrier function, improved appearance of photoaged facial skin (including texture, hyperpigmentation, redness, fine lines and wrinkles) and reduced sebum production [92,94–97]. Additionally, niacinamide is believed to influence cutaneous pigmentation by down-regulating transfer of melanosomes from the melanocytes to the keratinocytes [20,57,92]. ...
Skin pigmentary abnormalities are seen as aesthetically unfavorable and have led to the development of cosmetic and therapeutic treatment modalities of varying efficacy. Hence, several putative depigmenting agents aimed at modulating skin pigmentation are currently being researched or sold in commercially available products. In this review we will discuss the regulation of processes that control skin complexion coloration. This includes direct inhibition of tyrosinase and related melanogenic enzymes, regulation of melanocyte homeostasis, alteration of constitutive and facultative pigmentation and down-regulation of melanosome transfer to the keratinocytes. These various processes, in the complex mechanism of skin pigmentation, can be regulated individually or concomitantly to alter complexion coloration and thus ameliorate skin complexion diseases.
... These cofactors are involved in many reactions in the body, including several in the skin which appear to contribute to a reduction in the appearance of hyperpigmentation. [3][4][5] The results of in vitro cell coculture testing suggest that the inhibition of melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes by niacinamide is a relevant mechanism in this effect. 6,7 N-acetyl glucosamine (NAG) is an amino hexose that occurs throughout nature and in all human tissues. ...
Topical niacinamide and N-acetyl glucosamine (NAG) each individually inhibit epidermal pigmentation in cell culture. In small clinical studies, niacinamide-containing and NAG-containing formulations reduced the appearance of hyperpigmentation.
To assess the effect of a combination of niacinamide and NAG in a topical moisturizing formulation on irregular facial pigmentation, including specific detection of changes in colour features associated with melanin.
This was a 10-week, double-blind, vehicle-controlled, full-face, parallel-group clinical study conducted in women aged 40-60 years. After a 2-week washout period, subjects used a daily regimen of either a morning sun protection factor (SPF) 15 sunscreen moisturizing lotion and evening moisturizing cream each containing 4% niacinamide + 2% NAG (test formulation; n = 101) or the SPF 15 lotion and cream vehicles (vehicle control; n = 101). Product-induced changes in apparent pigmentation were assessed by capturing digital photographic images of the women after 0, 4, 6 and 8 weeks of product use and evaluating the images by algorithm-based computer image analysis for coloured spot area fraction, by expert visual grading, and by chromophore-specific image analysis based on noncontact SIAscopy for melanin spot area fraction and melanin chromophore evenness.
By all four measures, the niacinamide + NAG formulation regimen was significantly (P < 0.05) more effective than the vehicle control formulation regimen in reducing the detectable area of facial spots and the appearance of pigmentation.
A formulation containing the combination of niacinamide + NAG reduced the appearance of irregular pigmentation including hypermelaninization, providing an effect beyond that achieved with SPF 15 sunscreen.
... Niacinamide is a relatively new barrier-repair ingredient. Niacinamide increases the epidermal production of skin barrier lipids, such as ceramides, and proteins (keratin, involucrin, and fillagrin) (Matts et al., 2002;Bissett et al., 2003), and has been reported to inhibit inflammatory cytokines (Ungerstedt et al., 2003). This enhances barrier function ( Figure 3) and can prevent damage from surfactants and prescription agents such as retinoids, which can irritate skin and damage the barrier. ...
The skin barrier, consisting of corneocytes with interspersed intercellular lipids, is a dynamic structure responsible for providing an interface between the body and the environment. When this barrier functions optimally, it can more effectively prevent skin damage that would otherwise be induced by contact with noxious environmental factors such as surfactants. Dermatologic disease also causes barrier damage that is manifested as pruritic, erythematous, desquamative skin. The use of barrier-enhancing skin cleansers and moisturizers can both maintain and aid in the restoration of skin health. New developments particularly in the realm of petrolatum-depositing liquid cleansers and niacinamide-containing moisturizers offer therapeutic solutions for diseased and healthy skin.
The increasing demand for youthful, radiant skin has driven the skincare industry to innovate, particularly through the development of natural cosmeceuticals. This chapter explains the efficacy of these products, focusing on their capacity to reduce skin wrinkles—a primary sign of aging. The authors examine clinical trials and case studies to understand the cellular and molecular mechanisms by which natural ingredients contribute to skin health and their anti-wrinkle effects. Additionally, the authors address challenges related to the stability and compatibility of natural ingredients in formulations, alongside their alignment with consumer preferences and market trends. The chapter concludes by assessing the potential benefits of natural cosmeceuticals in antiaging treatments and identifying key areas for future research. The goal of the presented chapter is to advance skincare science by pragmatically leveraging antiaging research to enhance product development.
Photoaging is a complex process of skin changes associated with chronic ultraviolet exposure. Prevention with photoprotection and treatment with topical retinoids are the core components of a topical antiaging regimen. Other topicals such as hydroquinone, vitamin C, niacinamide, and alpha hydroxyl acid can be added based on specific concerns. However, caution must be used with some of these products as the stability and absorption are major considerations. A simple topical regimen will reduce irritability and enhance compliance.
Photoaging is a complex process of skin changes associated with chronic ultraviolet exposure. Prevention with photoprotection and treatment with topical retinoids are the core components of a topical antiaging regimen. Other topicals such as hydroquinone, vitamin C, niacinamide, and alpha hydroxyl acid can be added based on specific concerns. However, caution must be used with some of these products as the stability and absorption are major considerations. A simple topical regimen will reduce irritability and enhance compliance.
Vitamins are commonly used in topical skincare products designed to prevent skin aging and improve aged skin appearance, resilience, and health. Vitamins are organic compounds required for maintaining human health and are primarily obtained from the diet. Several forms of the oil‐soluble vitamin A are used cosmetically, the most widely utilized ones being retinol, retinyl esters, and retinaldehyde. There are three primary forms of the water‐soluble vitamin B 3 that have found utility in skin care products: niacinamide, nicotinic acid, and nicotinate esters. The niacinamide‐treated skin is then more resistant to environmental damage, as determined by exposure of the skin to the surfactant sodium lauryl sulfate and assessment of the resulting transepidermal water loss. Topical panthenol is extremely well tolerated by the skin, leading to wide topical use of the material and many reported skin effects. Vitamin C is well known as an antioxidant and has been utilized as a skin lightener.
Background:
Although microneedles are one of the best transdermal drug delivery systems for active compounds, few clinical trials have examined the safety and efficacy of brightening microneedle patches.
Aims:
To determine the efficacy and safety of a newly developed whitening microneedle patch.
Patients/methods:
A split-face study was designed for efficacy assessment with 34 Korean women applying the tested product (a whitening microneedle patch) on one cheek and a control whitening essence on the other. We objectively measured changes in melanin index values and skin brightness by mexameter and chromameter. Each participant also used global assessment to determine skin whitening. In addition, 55 participants were selected for primary skin irritation tests and repeated insult patch tests for safety assessments.
Results:
Mean skin brightness and melanin indexes improved (P<.05) 4 weeks and 8 weeks after product use in both the whitening patch and whitening essence groups. Significant differences (P<.05) were observed between the whitening patch and whitening essence groups 8 weeks after use. Global assessment by participants showed moderate cosmetic outcomes for both the whitening patch and whitening essence groups. No adverse effects were reported, and primary irritation and human repeated insult patch tests revealed no irritation from the test product.
Conclusions:
A newly developed microneedle patch was effective and safe for skin brightening and would be a promising functional cosmetic product.
Vitamins are commonly used as topical active agents in skincare products designed to improve aging skin appearance. With appropriate selection of vitamin form and concentration, many vitamins (e.g., A, B3, B5, C, E) can be safely applied topically for skin improvement effects. Appropriate formulation and packaging of vitamins is required to prevent loss of activity through processes such as light inactivation or oxidation and to achieve aesthetically acceptable products.
Die Haut als Ich-bezogenes Organ des menschlichen Körpers dient auch der Kommunikation mit dem Gegenüber und wurde seit jeher bewusst in ihrer Erscheinung modifiziert. So reichen die Ursprünge kosmetischer Behandlungen durch Externa (auch zur Faltenbehandlung) viele Jahrtausende zurück. Schon im alten Ägypten spielten kosmetische Anwendungen, nicht nur bei Frauen, sondern auch bei Männern, eine große Rolle.
IntroductionVitamin AVitamin B3Vitamin B5Vitamin CVitamin EOther vitaminsConclusions
References
This chapter reviews the few options available, with a focus upon technologies that can significantly impact wrinkles. The numerous technological advances have allowed the professional to be able to provide to patients significant transformations with reduced negative side effects and at lower costs. Cosmetics are products designed to provide an appearance benefit to consumers; these do not provide the same efficacy as prescription drugs per se but fill a meaningful need for consumers and are readily available to the world consumer in their respective marketplaces. As a starting premise, traditional moisturizers in and of themselves are able to have some modest effect on reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by hydrating and plumping the skin, but these effects can be transient and are definitely weak in overall robustness. Retinoids are topical prescription drugs that were originally approved for treating acne (Retin-A), and subsequently approved for treating photodamaged skin, including fine lines and wrinkles. Vitamins have been used extensively in cosmetic products for some time. One of the relatively newer entrants is niacinamide. Niacinamide has shown the ability to elicit a range of effects including reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, appearance of evening skin tone, reduction in pigmentation, and improvement in skin barrier.
Cosmeceuticals are popular agents present in many cosmetics that provide beneficial physiologic effects but are not considered true pharmaceuticals. Their sales represent the largest growth segment of the skin care market, with products increasingly available in dermatologists' offices. We review the use of cosmeceuticals in the treatment of aging and photoaged skin. These agents function to reverse clinical signs of aging by serving as antioxidants, targeting extracellular matrix proteins, and modulating cellular signaling pathways involved in the aging process.
Nicotinamide, also known as niacinamide, is the amide form of vitamin B3. It is a precursor of essential coenzymes for numerous reactions in the body including adenosine triphosphate (ATP) production. Nicotinic acid, also known as niacin, is converted into nicotinamide in the body. The use of topical nicotinamide in the treatment of acne vulgaris; melasma; atopic dermatitis; rosacea; and oral nicotinamide in preventing nonmelanoma skin cancer is discussed. The possible side effects and consequences of excessive nicotinamide exposure are reviewed, including suggestions nicotinamide might have a role in the development of diabetes, Parkinson's disease, and liver damage.
In human skin fibroblasts in vitro, procollagen-1 and NAD+/NADH were reduced in three strains of adult fibroblasts compared with neonatal fibroblasts. The levels of both procollagen-1 and NAD+/NADH were increased in the adult fibroblasts by treatment for 24 (NAD energy) or 48 h (procollagen-1) with a complex containing niacinamide, Pal-KTTKS peptide and an olive oil fatty acid derivative (Olivem®), especially in combination with a natural extract from dill (Lys'lastine V®). In one of the adult fibroblast strains evaluated, these changes in procollagen-1 and NAD+/NADH in response to the complex of bioactives were in parallel with increased expression of mRNA biomarkers related primarily to dermal matrix and basement membrane structure, including COL1A1, COL3A1, COL5A1, COL14A1, ELN and LOXL2, in addition to SOD2, NAMPT and TGFBR3; MMP1 was decreased in expression. In general, these mRNA biomarker effects were maintained or boosted by the addition of Lys'lastine V, particularly at 1%, and were similar to the fold changes in mRNA expression in neonatal compared with adult fibroblasts. These results indicate that the complex of niacinamide, Pal-KTTKS and Olivem, especially with addition of Lys'lastine V, increases the NAD+/NADH bioenergy level of adult skin fibroblasts in parallel with increased expression of skin structure biomarkers in vitro to levels similar to those in younger fibroblasts. Thus, niacinamide, Pal-KTTKS, Olivem and Lys'lastine V are promising bioactive candidates for inclusion in cosmetic formulations.
Differential spectrophotometry and liquid chromatography (TLC, HPLC) were used to qualitative and quantitative determination of nicotinamide (vitamin B3) in commercial cosmetics creams. The liquid-liquid extraction has been used as pretreatment processes for cosmetics samples prior to their analyses. Differential spectra were collected using a UV-Vis spectrophotometer with the range of 220–350 nm, in a 1-cm layer, with the speed of spectrum registering at 240 nm/min, the spectra width of the radiation leaving the monochromator of 1.00 nm and the increase in wavelength of 1 nm. The measuring methods of “peak-zero” and “peak-peak” were used. The reversed-phase determination of vitamin B3 was conducted on a LiChrospher 100 RP-18 column (250 × 4 mm, 10 μm) at 260 nm, using a mixture of KH2PO4 (0.02 M)-methanol (9: 1) as a mobile phase (the flow rate — 1.5 mL/min). The UV method (D2) for the determination of vitamin B3 in cosmetic products is accurate with the comparison of reference method of HPLC.
The skin has an amazing array of complex interacting biological processes. Recent advances in investigational techniques now allow evaluation of these processes at the level of the gene, protein and metabolite. Sometimes collectively known as the omics, these fields of inquiry, known as genomics, proteomics and metabolomics, respectively, are yielding new and important insights into skin structure and processes, its responses to injury and age, and the mechanisms by which new interventions and compounds may work to improve the health and integrity of this crucial organ.
Background Cosmeceuticals provide a new therapeutic frontier for anti-aging in dermatology. The most dramatic signs of cutaneous aging include the lack of skin surface regularity, the formation of rhagades, and the increased presence of dyspigmentation.
Background The objective of this review is to illustrate how these three needs of maturing skin can be met by novel ingredients incorporated into carefully constructed formulations designed to deliver scientifically measurable and visibly noticeable improvement.
Conclusion Skin surface irregularity can be improved through increased skin turnover facilitated by topical niacinamide, while the appearance of fine lines can be diminished through the application of moisturizers containing engineered peptides and over-the-counter retinoids, such as retinyl propionate. Finally, skin pigmentation can become more regular with the topical application of N-acetyl glucosamine and ultraviolet A photoprotective ingredients. Furthermore, combining cosmeceutical ingredients in a moisturizing vehicle can magnify benefits and profoundly improve skin appearance.
Cosmetic products containing ultraviolet light filtering agents are rapidly being developed and entering the marketplace. These advanced multifunctional formulations are intended to deliver both cosmetic and protective benefits. Herein, a brief discussion is presented of newer preparations and their features, as well as how their formulary attributes may contribute to improving photoprotection by encouraging adherence.
Tretinoin is considered the benchmark prescription topical therapy for improving fine facial wrinkles, but skin tolerance issues can affect patient compliance. In contrast, cosmetic antiwrinkle products are well tolerated but are generally presumed to be less efficacious than tretinoin.
To compare the efficacy of a cosmetic moisturizer regimen vs. a prescription regimen with 0.02% tretinoin for improving the appearance of facial wrinkles.
An 8-week, randomized, parallel-group study was conducted in 196 women with moderate to moderately severe periorbital wrinkles. Following 2 weeks washout, subjects on the cosmetic regimen (n = 99) used a sun protection factor (SPF) 30 moisturizing lotion containing 5% niacinamide, peptides and antioxidants, a moisturizing cream containing niacinamide and peptides, and a targeted wrinkle product containing niacinamide, peptides and 0.3% retinyl propionate. Subjects on the prescription regimen (n = 97) used 0.02% tretinoin plus moisturizing SPF 30 sunscreen. Subject cohorts (n = 25) continued treatment for an additional 16 weeks. Changes in facial wrinkling were assessed by both expert grading and image analysis of digital images of subjects' faces and by self-assessment questionnaire. Product tolerance was assessed via clinical erythema and dryness grading, subject self-assessment, and determinations of skin barrier integrity (transepidermal water loss) and stratum corneum protein changes.
The cosmetic regimen significantly improved wrinkle appearance after 8 weeks relative to tretinoin, with comparable benefits after 24 weeks. The cosmetic regimen was significantly better tolerated than tretinoin through 8 weeks by all measures.
An appropriately designed cosmetic regimen can improve facial wrinkle appearance comparably with the benchmark prescription treatment, with improved tolerability.
The periorbital area is a key wrinkle-prone region, where the first signs of aging usually appear.
To demonstrate the ability of new anti-aging moisturizing products to improve overall smoothness and wrinkle depth appearance in the periorbital region via the Fast Optical in vivo Topometry of Human Skin (FOITS).
Two double-blind, randomized, controlled, split-face studies (n = 42, Study 1; n = 35, Study 2) were conducted in women 30-70 years old with moderate to distinct periorbital wrinkles. Subjects applied 0.5 g of individual products to half their face twice daily for 4 weeks. Four test products containing niacinamide, the peptides Pal-KT and Pal-KTTKS, and carnosine were used and included a daytime SPF 30 lotion also containing antioxidants, a night cream, an eye cream also containing caffeine, and a wrinkle treatment containing retinyl propionate. The wrinkle treatment was only tested in Study 2. The FOITS technique was used to measure changes in periorbital R(a) (mean roughness) and R(z) (average maximum roughness) at 2 and 4 weeks.
In Study 1, the daytime SPF 30 lotion, night cream, and eye cream significantly improved crow's feet smoothness after 4 weeks relative to no treatment. After 4 weeks, the daytime SPF 30 lotion and night cream, but not the eye cream, were significantly better than no treatment at improving R(z). In Study 2, the night cream, eye cream, and wrinkle treatment, but not the daytime SPF 30 lotion, significantly improved both R(a) and R(z) after 4 weeks. To increase power and precision of estimates, a meta-analysis was performed; the pooled data showed all three products were significantly better than no treatment at improving R(a) and R(z) after 4 weeks.
Four weeks of treatment with these products was shown to improve the smoothness of periorbital skin and to reduce the apparent depth of larger wrinkles.
The term cosmeceutical was created over 25 years ago to define products with active substances that cannot be considered cosmetics or drugs. Cosmeceuticals are increasingly popular, with sales representing one of the largest growing segments of the skin care market. These products are found in many forms, including vitamins, peptides, growth factors, and botanical extracts. Cosmeceuticals that contain topically applied vitamins have an increasing role in skin care.
In the cosmetic arena, many materials are used commercially and claim to provide skin effects (eg, antiaging effects) when used topically. Considering there are so many such materials and many skin appearance effects are encompassed, this short contribution must, by necessity, be selective in terms of the number of materials discussed and the depth with which any particular material is overviewed. This presentation, therefore, focuses on only 10 types of cosmeceutical agents: five vitamins (A, B(3), C, E, panthenol), peptides, hydroxyl acids, sugar amines, ceramides, and metals. In particular, this contribution concentrates on those materials for which there are available clinical data that support a reported skin appearance improvement effect.
Niacinamide is known to have effectiveness on sallowness, wrinkling, red blotchiness and hyperpigmented spots in aging skin. In this study, we have evaluated the anti-wrinkle effects of a new cosmetic containing niacinamide. A randomized, placebo-controlled, split face study was performed in 30 healthy Japanese females who had wrinkles in the eye areas. The tested cosmetic containing 4% niacinamide was applied on wrinkles of one side for 8 weeks, and a control cosmetic without niacinamide on another site. Anti-wrinkle effects were evaluated with two methods: (i) doctors' observation and photographs based on the guideline of the Japan Cosmetic Industry Association; and (ii) average roughness of skin surface (Ra value) using skin replica. This cosmetic showed marked and moderate improvement in 64% of the subjects with a significant difference as compared with the control site (P < 0.001). Wrinkle grades in the tested area significantly reduced more than pre-application (P < 0.001) and the control (P < 0.001). Reduction in Ra value on the tested area was more than pre-application (P < 0.01) and the control site (P < 0.05) with significant differences. Only one subject stopped the study with minimal irritation. These results indicated that the tested lotion was well tolerated and may be an optional preparation for the treatment of wrinkles in the eye areas.
In multiple chronic clinical studies, topical niacinamide (vitamin B3) has been observed to be well tolerated by skin and to provide a broad array of improvements in the appearance of aging facial skin (eg, reduction in the appearance of hyperpigmentated spots and red blotchiness).
To clinically determine the effect of topical niacinamide on additional skin appearance and property end points (wrinkles, yellowing, and elasticity).
Female white subjects (N = 50) with clinical signs of facial photoaging (fine lines and wrinkles, poor texture, and hyperpigmented spots) applied 5% niacinamide to half of the face and its vehicle control to the other half twice daily for 12 weeks (double blind, left-right randomized). Facial images and instrumental measures were obtained at baseline and at 4-week intervals.
Analyses of the data revealed a variety of significant skin appearance improvement effects for topical niacinamide: reductions in fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmented spots, red blotchiness, and skin sallowness (yellowing). In addition, elasticity (as measured via cutometry) was improved. Corresponding mechanistic information is presented.
In addition to previously observed benefits for topical niacinamide, additional effects were identified (improved appearance of skin wrinkles and yellowing and improved elasticity).
The presence of sebum on the face is responsible for both facial shine and the formation of comedonal and inflammatory acne lesions. Sebum control is a goal of many OTC skin care products; however, most currently available products function by absorbing sebum from the face rather than modulating its production.
To demonstrate the effect of topical 2% niacinamide on sebum excretion rates and casual sebum production in Oriental and Caucasian populations.
Separate clinical trials were conducted in both Japan and the USA to evaluate the effect of topical 2% niacinamide in different ethnic groups. A total of 100 Japanese subjects were enrolled in a double-blind, placebo-controlled comparison between two independent balanced groups. Fifty subjects applied the 2% niacinamide moisturizer to the face for 4 weeks and 50 subjects used a placebo moisturizer for 4 weeks, with sebum excretion rate (SER) measurements taken at baseline, week 2, and week 4. In addition, 30 Caucasian subjects were enrolled in a randomized split-face study for 6 weeks with SER and casual sebum levels (CSL) measured at baseline, week 3, and week 6.
The results of the Japanese study demonstrated that the SER of the two groups was not significantly different at baseline, but the 2% niacinamide treated group demonstrated significantly lowered SER after 2 and 4 weeks of application. The results were somewhat different in the Caucasian study. After 6 weeks of treatment, the CSL was significantly reduced, but the SER was not significantly reduced.
Topical 2% niacinamide may be effective in lowering the SER in Japanese individuals and CSL in Caucasian individuals.
The palmitoyl pentapeptide palmitoyl-lysine-threonine-threonine-lysine-serine (pal-KTTKS) is a synthetic material that was designed as a topical agent to stimulate collagen production and thus provide a skin anti-wrinkle benefit. To determine if pal-KTTKS is effective, the clinical study reported here was conducted. Caucasian female subjects (n = 93, aged 35–55) participated in a 12-week, double-blind, placebo-controlled, split-face, left–right randomized clinical study assessing two topical products: moisturizer control product vs. the same moisturizer product containing 3 ppm pal-KTTKS. Pal-KTTKS was well tolerated by the skin and provided significant improvement vs. placebo control for reduction in wrinkles/fine lines by both quantitative technical and expert grader image analysis. In self-assessments, subjects also reported significant fine line/wrinkle improvements and noted directional effects for other facial improvement parameters.
Le pentapeptide palmitoyl-lysine-thréonine-lysine-sérine (pal-KTTKS) est un composé synthétique décrit comme agent topique stimulant la production de collagène et possédant donc des propriétés anti-rides. L'efficacité du pal-KTTKL a étéévaluée dans l’étude clinique faisant l'objet de cet article. Des femmes de type caucasien (n = 93, de 35 à 55 ans) ont participé pendant 12 semaines à un test en double aveugle avec placébo, en apparié par demie face comparant deux produits topiques: un produit témoin hydratant et le même produit contenant 3 ppm de pal-KTTKS. Bien toléré par la peau, le pal-KTTKS a montré par rapport au témoin, une amélioration significative dans la réduction des rides et ridules que se soit par des techniques quantitatives et par l'analyse d'image quantifiée par un expert. Dans le cadre d'auto-évaluations, les sujets ont fait état d'améliorations significatives et attiré l'attention sur des effets pouvant servir de pistes pour d'autres paramètres d'amélioration faciale.
Synopsis
Previous clinical testing of topical niacinamide (vitamin B3) has revealed a broad array of improvements in the appearance of aging facial skin. The study reported here was done to confirm some of those previous observations and to evaluate additional end points such as skin anti‐yellowing. Caucasian female subjects ( n = 50, aged 40–60 years) participated in a 12‐week, double‐blind, placebo‐controlled, split‐face, left–right randomized clinical study assessing two topical products: moisturizer control product versus the same moisturizer product containing 5% niacinamide. Niacinamide was well tolerated by the skin and provided significant improvements versus control in end points evaluated previously: fine lines/wrinkles, hyperpigmentation spots, texture, and red blotchiness. In addition, skin yellowing (sallowness) versus control was significantly improved. The mechanism by which this array of benefits is achieved with niacinamide is discussed.
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