This article identifies parallels in the unfinished, recycled, and layered features of 1990s fashion design labeled Deconstruction Fashion and the Deconstructive school of French philosophy, notably the thinking and writing of Jacques Derrida. With reference to the designs of Rei Kawakubo for Commes des Garçons, Karl Lagerfeld, Martin Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester and Dries Van Noten, from the
... [Show full abstract] early to mid 1990s, the article establishes a translation into fashion of the influential ideas of deconstruction that have transformed philosophy, literature, film theory and production, and related design areas of architecture, graphic design and new media. But this is no simple translation or anti-fashion trend, involving the careful consideration of fashion's debt to its own history, philosophical thought, temporality and the ambivalences about innovation at its very foundations. The designs by Margiela, Demeulemeester and others are marked by a delight in the analytics and process of construction, often giving new life to garment components or seams that are usually concealed. Also, Margiela appears to understand that fashion's clothing of the body affects physical, cultural and ontological changes, and for this reason his designs attempt to reveal both heritage and innovation, looking at once forward and backwards, in a manner that parallels deconstructive thinking.