BookPDF Available

Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients

Authors:
  • Baumann Cosmetic and Research Institute

Abstract

This book was inspired by a passion for skin care, science, the history of the cosmeceutical industry, and almost two decades of treating patients with cosmeceutical products. Its goal is to help the reader understand the history of cosmeceutical ingredients, the science behind them, the challenges of using them in a skin care regimen, and learn how to choose what type of ingredients are appropriate for various Baumann Skin Types®. This book is meant to dispel myths and misperceptions about what certain ingredients can and cannot do. It provides an unbiased, brand agnostic approach to the subject. It will explain the various studies on the ingredients and provide detailed references so that the reader can go back and read the original study if they have doubts. It is divided into sections to help the reader classify ingredients in a simple manner, however, some ingredients work for more than one purpose.
A preview of the PDF is not available
... Occlusive agents are usually oily substances that coat the stratum corneum (SC) rendering an emollient effect as well as the ability to decrease transepidermal water loss (TEWL) [17]. In general, the higher the oil component, the greater the softening action. ...
Article
Full-text available
As interest in skin increases, the cosmetic market is also growing. It is difficult to choose between the numerous types of basic cosmetics on the market. This article aims to provide advice and guidance on which products to recommend according to a patient’s skin condition. Appropriate application of a moisturizer attempts not only to improve the dryness, but also improve the skin’s natural barrier function to protect the skin from internal and external irritants to keep the skin healthy. Moisturizers consist of various ingredients, including occlusive agents, emollients, humectants, lipid mixture, emulsifiers, and preservatives. Pathophysiology of dry skin is also discussed to provide readers with the background they need to choose the right moisturizer for themselves. As moisturizers play an important role as adjuvant in the treatment of common skin diseases, such as atopic dermatitis, contact dermatitis, psoriasis, acne and rosacea, which type of moisturizer is appropriate for each disease was also dealt with. Basic cosmetics, especially moisturizers, should be recommended in consideration of the ingredients, effectiveness and safety of each product, and the skin condition of each patient.
... Herbal medicine containing diverse bio-active phytochemicals have long been utilized (Kesarwani and Gupta, 2013;Baumann, 2014). Recently, medicinal researchers have tried to find out therapeutic single component (Lim et al., 2001); however, several studies suggested that whole extract rather than single component is advantageous in therapies as complicated components stimulate multiple targets, induce synergetic effect and act as bio-enhancers (Hu et al., 2009). ...
Article
Full-text available
We prepared hybrids consisting of Angelica gigas Nakai (AGN) root or flower extract and layered double hydroxide (LDH) for potential anticancer nanomedicine, as decursin species (DS) in AGN are known to have anticancer activity. Dimethylsulfoxide solvent was determined hybridization reaction media, as it has affinity to both AGN and LDH moiety. In order to develop inter-particle spaces in LDH, a reversible dehydration-rehydration, so-called reconstruction route, was applied in AGN-LDH hybridization. Quantitative analyses on AGN-LDH hybrids indicated that the content of DS was two times more concentrated in the hybrids than in extract itself. Using X-ray diffraction, FT-IR spectroscopy, scanning electron microscopy, and zeta-potential measurement, we found that AGN extract moiety was incorporated into inter-particle spaces of LDH nanoparticles during the reconstruction reaction. Time-dependent DS release from hybrids at pH 7.4 (physiological condition) and pH 4.5 (lysosomal condition) exhibited a pH-dependent release of extract-incorporated LDH hybrids. An anticancer activity test using HeLa, A549, and HEK293T cells showed that the AGN-LDH hybrid, regardless of extract type, showed enhanced anticancer activity compared with extract alone at an equivalent amount of DS, suggesting a nanomedicine effect of AGN-LDH hybrids.
... Olive oil, which permeates the dermal-epidermal junction and all levels of the SC, is considered anti-inflammatory due to its antioxidants but has been reported to be an irritant. Like propylene glycol and terpenes, often found in emollient formulations, olive oil can be applied on the skin as a penetration enhancer of emollients with added active ingredients [57]. ...
Article
Full-text available
Purpose of Review Studies show frequent usage but low adherence rates and poor satisfaction from topical therapy for psoriasis. These were attributed to low efficacy, inconvenience of application, and poor cosmetic quality for different body parts. Recent Findings Multicenter surveys on patients suggest a two-way holistic approach, where patients convey what bothers them most and doctors explain how products address specific concerns. New rapid response targeted topical agents, in cosmetically acceptable preparations, applied less often, are undergoing efficacy and safety studies, ideally on large populations up to 1 year or more. Until available, this review addresses gaps in knowledge on how to maximize effects of emollients, used alone, with physiologic lipids, or as base for active topical therapy. Summary Updates—on how psoriasis skin becomes itchy, red, dry, thick, and scaly from inflammation and barrier defects—explain clinical responses to the physical, chemical, and functional properties of psoriasis topical therapies.
Article
In diesem Beitrag werden zwei Methoden zum Nachweis von Phthalsäureestern (Phthalaten) und Citronensäureestern (Citraten) beschrieben. Die Wirkung von Weichmachern wird in einfachen Experimenten aufgezeigt. This paper describes two methods for the detection of phthalic acid esters (phthalates) and citric acid esters (citrates). The effect of plasticizers is demonstrated in simple experiments.
Article
Full-text available
Background To meet the need for a subspecialized skin type system, the Baumann skin type (BST) system was proposed. Objective To evaluate the distribution of BST types and influencing factors among Korean women. Methods BST questionnaires were administered to 1,000 Korean women. The possible responses were as follows: oily (O) or dry (D), sensitive (S) or resistant (R), pigmented (P) or non-pigmented (N), and wrinkled (W) or tight (T). The correlations of the BST with the subjects' age, location, ultraviolet (UV) ray exposure, drinking and smoking habits, and blood type were assessed. Results The OSNT, DSNT, DRNT, and OSNW skin types were the most common skin types (55.3%). The O, S, P, and W types accounted for 46.6%, 68.8%, 23.2%, and 31.9%, respectively. The proportion of the O and S type was the highest in Gyeongsangbuk-do (55.0%) and Seoul (77.2%). The proportion of the P and W type was the highest in Gyeongsangbuk-do (33.0%) and Chungcheong-do (39.0%). The O type decreased in the higher age group, whereas the P and W type showed a reversed tendency. In smokers, the proportion of W type was significantly higher than in the non-smokers (66.3% vs. 24.1%, p<0.05). Conclusion The 4 most common BST types were OSNT, DSNT, DRNT, and OSNW. In the comparison across the 4 BST parameters according to the age, region, smoking and drinking habits, occupation, blood type, and UV exposure, significant differences were observed. Individualized and customized skin care is required according to the personal skin type.
Chapter
The biology of various skin phenotypes, such as oily, dry, acne-prone, rosacea-prone, dyschromia, and photoaged, affects the interaction and efficacy of cosmeceutical ingredients. This chapter will review how cosmeceuticals influence basic skin biology and how they interact with each other in various patient phenotypes, as characterized by the Baumann Skin Typing System (BSTS). Developed in 2004, the BSTS, derived from a scientifically validated questionnaire, offers specific guidance for physicians and patients/consumers in identifying the most suitable ingredients and skin products as it takes into account multiple concurrent cutaneous characteristics and gathers historical data. The reader will be provided with knowledge of the basic science of different skin issues and will obtain a scientific perspective on how to design skin care regimens, combine cosmeceuticals with prescription medications, educate staff and patients on their proper use, and ethically prescribe skin care products using this standardized methodology.
ResearchGate has not been able to resolve any references for this publication.