Article

Azeloyl-Glycine: A new active in skin disequilibrium

Authors:
  • rigano laboratories
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Abstract

The dermatological uses of Azelaic acid are related to its anti-sebhorreic, anti-mycotic and anti-acne properties. However, its limits in topical formulations are well known, even when it is used at lower concentrations than the pharmacological ones. Firstly, a high percentage amount is required to be effective. Secondly, being insoluble at high concentrations, it provides poor cosmetic properties to the formulations, which result to be thick and difficult to spread over the skin. Finally, its solubilisation by adequate chemical methods (e.g. neutralisation) brings to loss of Azelaic acid content during shelf life, as it decarboxylates. In order to overcome these problems a new molecule, Potassium Azeloyl di-Glycinate, has been produced. It exhibits very high water solubility, high specific activity at low concentration, low toxicity and adequate chemical stability and compatibility. Serial cosmetic efficacy essays have been carried out with informed volunteers. The preliminary results are very interesting. It proved very effective as skin whitening agent and sebum normalizer. In addition, other skin parameters like moisturization and some elastic properties show remarkable improvements. As far as applications are concerned, a pre-systematic study on all the cosmetic functionalities has identified the most proper cosmetic forms for preparing topic formulations. Finally, complete formulations have been developed, in order to use the sebum normalizing and skin lightening properties of this new raw material.

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... Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate is a product of the reaction between chloride ion from azelaic acid compound with two molecules of glycine and KOH [3] . The research [4] on five respondents stated that Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate was able to reduce excess oil production by 31.5%; increased stratum corneum moisture by 12.7%; and increase skin elasticity by 2.5%. ...
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Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate has the ability to moisturize the skin, regenerate cells, increase skin elasticity, and hide fine lines. This research aims to discover the stability and effectiveness of anti-aging cream made from Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate in regenerating and hydrating skin. The anti-aging cream formulation was made by varying the concentration of Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate (0%,3%,5%,7%) and then the physical properties stability was evaluated. The best formula was going to be tested for its ability to regenerate the mouse’s skin cells that had erythema, and hydrated the respondent’s skin. In addition, an antioxidant activity was tested on pure Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate and Vitamin C as the positive control. The results showed that the F2 Cream had the best physical properties stability evaluation results. The F2 Cream had the better ability to regenerate the mouse’s skin cells than the positive and negative control groups (the erythema diameter was 4.33 ± 4.04 mm), and was also able to increase the skin moisture of 12 respondents who participated in the research. The results of the antioxidant activity test showed that Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate belonged to the very weak antioxidant group (IC 50 :83.946.587 ppm), while Vitamin C belonged to the very strong antioxidant group (IC 50 :1.684 ppm).
... Leur double fonctionnalité permet d'envisager la formation de lipoaminoacides bolaformes. À titre d'exemple, la faible hydrosolubilité de l'acide azélaïque formulé en cosmétique pour ses propriétés bactériostatique, bactéricide, sébo-régulatrice et éclaircissante a récemment été améliorée[23,28] en greffant un motif glycinate de potassium à chacune de ses extrémités (Azeloglicina ® ).L'oléochimie joue un rôle primordial dans le domaine des tensioactifs et, plus particulièrement, dans le domaine des biotensioactifs. Elle constitue, à ce jour, la seule voie pour fabriquer des agents de surface totalement d'origine naturelle. ...
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... Leur double fonctionnalité permet d'envisager la formation de lipoaminoacides bolaformes. À titre d'exemple, la faible hydrosolubilité de l'acide azélaïque formulé en cosmétique pour ses propriétés bactériostatique, bactéricide, sébo-régulatrice et éclaircissante a récemment été améliorée [23,28] en greffant un motif glycinate de potassium à chacune de ses extrémités (Azeloglicina ® ). ...
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Full-text available
This article is willing to show through different industrial examples the role played by the oleochemistry in the development of new surfactants. This field offers indeed a large choice of alkyl chains that can be transformed. Linked to a polar head such as a polyol, a carbohydrate or a protein derivative, these alkyl chains lead to performing bio-surfactants that show interesting toxicological and ecotoxicological profiles. This natural lipophilic source allows thus to adjust some physico-chemical parameters of the surfactant such as its geometry, its hydrophilic lipophilic balance, the type of functional groups linking its hydrophilic part to its lipophilic part, its molecular weight, etc. The emulsifying, foaming, solubilizing, biological properties can be valued in cosmetics (as excipients or actives), in the areas of veterinary additives, of detergents, in the food industry, etc.
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