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Evaluation of the anti-wrinkle efficacy of cosmetic formulations with an anti-aging peptide (Argireline®)
Abstract
The purpose of this research was to evaluate, by means of in vivo studies, the efficacy of new cosmetic active ingredients which effect of botox, called Argireline®), so that width and depth of wrinkles could be established. For this, it is prepared two formulations: an emulsion with an external aqueous phase for normal to dry skin, and a gel for oily skin. We likewise study the water content of the skin after the application of both formulas, as this must be one of the priority functions of facial treatments in general, as well as the level of satisfaction from the subjective point of view, fundamental for patients and their continuation of the treatment. After the designed tests, it is possible to verify that there is a remarkable diminution of the wrinkles size tested in each patient during the month of treatment. Besides, it is possible to review how the moisturizing capacity has been increased in all cases. At the end of the visual test, all the volunteers experienced a reduction in the depth of wrinkles, and from the subjective point of view, the appearance and elasticity of the skin were improved. Finally it is possible to conclude that Argireline® (acetyl hexapeptide-8) shows a great antiaging capacity in all the cases that have been studied and the tried compounds have increased moisturizing power.
... Argireline is a biosafe cosmetic alternative to reduce facial lines and wrinkles [15]. There are many reports confi rming the anti-wrinkle effects of Argireline [5,6,15,19,20]. In one of them 10 women used the oil/water (O/W) emulsion with 10% of Argireline twice a day for 30 days. The results of this experiment suggest that the applied product reduces the depth of wrinkles by 30% [15]. ...
... A 27% reduction of wrinkles was observed in 10 women after application of a cream with 5% Argireline twice a day [5]. In the study by Ruiz et al. a group of 20 people tested an emulsion containing Argireline, with a signifi cant reduction of wrinkles ranging between 41.83 and 78.25% [20]. ...
... Due to the inherent reactivity of peptides and proteins, various spontaneous chemi cal changes may occur. The stability of cosmetic formulations containing Argireline was tested by Ruiz and co-workers [20]. It was found that Argireline is stable during storage at 25 ºC, however, a significant decrease to 59% and to 41% was observed after heating for 24 hours at 40ºC or 60ºC, respectively. ...
Argireline, a peptide with the sequence: Ac-Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg-NH2, also known as Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, reduces facial lines and wrinkles by destabilization of the formation of the SNARE complex (SNAP Receptor, soluble N-ethylmaleimide sensitive factor (NSF) attachment protein receptor), thus preventing muscle contraction. It is a biosafe cosmetic alternative to the botulinum toxin. The method of choice in bioactive peptide analysis is reversed-phase high performance liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (LC-MS). The aim of this work as to present the properties of Argireline and the analysis of cosmetic products containing this peptide. Previous reports on possible Argireline transformations in cosmetic formulations have not confirmed deacetylation, whereas the oxidation of methionine residue was detected by our team. As the biological activity of the oxidized Argireline is not known, further biological studies, as well as efficient analytical procedures for transformation monitoring and quality control in cosmetic products, are necessary.
... This peptide, which is similar to botulinum toxin, is able to mimic the N-terminal end of the SNAP-25 protein and compete for a site in the SNARE complex, resulting in destabilization of its formation as well as inhibition of ACh release and, eventually, decreased muscle contraction [7,15,20]. A clinical study by Ruiz et al. (2010) investigated the anti-wrinkle benefits of an oil in water (O/W) emulsion containing acetyl hexapeptide-3 in 20 human subjects for 30 days of topical application. It showed positive signs with a reduction in wrinkle depth and size by 59% and 41%, respectively, compared with the placebo control [21]. ...
... A clinical study by Ruiz et al. (2010) investigated the anti-wrinkle benefits of an oil in water (O/W) emulsion containing acetyl hexapeptide-3 in 20 human subjects for 30 days of topical application. It showed positive signs with a reduction in wrinkle depth and size by 59% and 41%, respectively, compared with the placebo control [21]. ...
Bioactive peptides have gained significant attention in the cosmetic industry due to their potential in enhancing skin health and beauty. These small protein fragments exhibit various biological activities, such as antioxidant, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial activities, making them ideal ingredients for cosmetic formulations. These bioactive peptides are classified into four categories: signal, carrier, neurotransmitter-inhibitory, and enzyme-inhibitory peptides. This review provides insight into applying bioactive peptides in cosmetics and their mechanisms of action (e.g., downregulating pro-inflammatory cytokines, radical scavenging, inhibiting collagen, tyrosinase, and elastase synthesis). The abundant natural origins (e.g., animals, plants, and marine sources) have been identified as primary sources for extractions of cosmetic peptides through various techniques (e.g., enzymatic hydrolysis, ultrafiltration, fermentation, and high-performance liquid chromatography). Furthermore, the safety and regulatory aspects of using peptides in cosmetics are examined, including potential allergic reactions and regulatory guidelines. Finally, the challenges of peptides in cosmetics are discussed, emphasizing the need for further research to fully harness their potential in enhancing skin health. Overall, this review provides a comprehensive understanding of the application of peptides in cosmetics, shedding light on their transformative role in developing innovative and effective skincare products.
... Structural changes in the collagen and skin lipid matrix, deterioration of elastin, dermal and epidermal atrophy, contractions of the connective membranous septae are the main processes responsible for superficial wrinkles [42]. Fractional peeling (micronee- The treatment had an average recovery time of 6.3 days (±2.3) which involved, in chronological order: erythema, hypersensitivity and skin hyperreactivity in the first phase (2-3 days), then subsequent desquamation with transient discoloration (due to the presence of desquamated areas with non-desquamated areas). ...
... Structural changes in the collagen and skin lipid matrix, deterioration of elastin, dermal and epidermal atrophy, contractions of the connective membranous septae are the main processes responsible for superficial wrinkles [42]. Fractional peeling (microneedling combined with soft peeling) has been shown to be effective in fighting these processes by significantly reducing the signs they cause. ...
Background: The interest in maintaining a young and attractive appearance in an era with increasingly hectic rhythms has generated a pressing demand for effective aesthetic procedures with the shortest possible recovery period, stimulating the search for non-invasive, yet successful, solutions. The aim of this study was to evaluate the effectiveness of the combined soft peeling and MN technique on the various imperfections typical of facial aging. Methods: This multicentric uncontrolled experimental study recruited a population of healthy subjects of both sexes with advanced signs of photo- and chrono-aging. These subjects were provided with a single session of microneedling and peeling at the same time. Recruited subjects were re-evaluated 30 (±4) and 60 (±4) days after treatment by photographic comparison before and after treatment. The physicians evaluated the improvement of facial wrinkles according to the Wrinkle Assessment Scale of Lemperle. Forty-nine subjects completed the study and showed a significant improvement in wrinkles in all areas of the face. Results: There were no significant differences in the different subpopulations compared: males–females, Glogau 3–Glogau 4, smokers–non-smokers, phototypes 1–4, and check up at 30 days–control at 60 days. The adverse events manifested were localized edema in four cases (8.2%) lasting an average of 3–4 days, very fine crustiness in four cases (8.2%), transient post inflammatory dyschromia in two cases (4.1%) lasting 2–3 weeks, and herpetic reactivation in one case (2.0%). Conclusions: The study demonstrates the therapeutic efficacy of the combined needling-peeling treatment in different types of wrinkles.
... [20] Argireline efficacy was studied in human subjects. Twice a day application of 10 % Argireline for 30 days reduced the depth of wrinkles by 30 %, [15] whereas in another study the cream and gel containing Argireline caused reduction of wrinkles between 41.83 and 78.25 %. [21] The efficacy of Argireline in the treatment of periorbital wrinkles in Chinese subjects was evaluated in a group of 60 people, with 48.9 % wrinkle reduction as compared with placebo group. [14] It is worth noting that Argireline was investigated in treatment for blepharospasm, a focal dystonia affecting primarily the orbicularis oculi muscles. ...
... [34,37] Ruiz et al. found Argireline stable in formulations, however, they used HPLC/UV and did not identify the additional peaks in chromatograms. [21] In general, the stability of cosmetic topical peptides was investigated in skin homogenates. [45] Our results The replacement of glutamic acid by aspartic acid does not change the general charge distribution in the molecule, whereas free N-terminal amino group should increase the solubility of the analog. ...
Front Cover. Creams and other cosmetics are often applied to reduce the visible ageing effects, such as facial wrinkles. Argireline, an acetyl hexapeptide Ac‐Glu‐Glu‐Met‐Gln‐Arg‐Arg‐NH2, sometimes described as ‘needle‐free Botox' is often added to higher‐end anti‐wrinkle cosmetic products. However, detection and quantification of argireline content in commercially available cosmetics is complicated due to the low concentration and very complex matrix. The application of such sensitive method as LC‐MS may not be enough to detect argireline in some products, moreover, the experiments revealed that the methionine residue is often oxidized, which may affect its biological properties in unexpected and as of yet uninvestigated ways, as reported by Kluczyk et al. in their full paper at 10.1002/cbdv.202000992.
... [20] Argireline efficacy was studied in human subjects. Twice ad ay application of 10 %A rgireline for 30 days reduced the depth of wrinkles by 30 %, [15] whereas in another study the cream and gel containing Argireline caused reduction of wrinkles between 41.83 and 78.25 %. [21] The efficacy of Argireline in the treatment of periorbital wrinkles in Chinese subjects was evaluated in ag roup of 60 people, with 48.9 %w rinkle reduction as compared with placebo group. [14] It is worth noting that Argireline was investigated in treatment for blepharospasm, af ocal dystonia affecting primarily the orbicularis oculi muscles. ...
... [34,37] Ruiz et al. found Argireline stable in formulations, however, they used HPLC/UV and did not identify the additional peaks in chromatograms. [21] In general, the stability of cosmetic topical peptides was investigated in skin homogenates. [45] Our results The replacement of glutamic acid by aspartic acid does not change the general charge distribution in the molecule, whereas free N-terminal amino group should increase the solubility of the analog. ...
Argireline‐containing cosmetics attract public interest due to their confirmed reduction of facial wrinkles. Argireline is a peptide that works by inhibiting the release of neurotransmitters in the neuromuscular junction, producing a botox‐like effect. Therefore, it is used as a safe needle‐free alternative to botox treatment. In this work we investigated the presence of Argireline in cosmetic creams and sera by application of reversed phase liquid chromatography and tandem mass spectrometry (RP‐HPLC‐MS and MS/MS). The analysis revealed the presence of argireline and its oxidized form in several different cosmetics. The methionine residue in Argireline sequence was indicated as oxidation point according to neutral loss MS studies. The developed sample preparation strategy minimizes and monitors methionine oxidation, bringing to our attention the question of impact of ingredients on the stability of cosmetic product.
... Then oil phase was added to water phase little by little on constant stirring and perfume was added to it when the temperature was 35 °C-40 ° C. Six different formulations (F1-F6) were prepared by using varying concentration of the aqueous extract, stearic acid and liquid paraffin. The formula for the cream is given in table 1 [2,9]. ...
... Fixed amount of cream was diluted with water and mineral oil separately. Then they are observed for separation of both the phases in oil and water (Dilution method) [9,10]. ...
Objective: The purpose of this study was to develop anti-ageing poly-herbal face cream by mixing the ethanol extract of C. sativum and rose hip oil in order to produce multipurpose effects on the skin such as fairness, softening and antiseptic effects.Methods: Ageing of the skin is the result of continuous "wear and tear" processes. Chronological skin aging is a universal and inevitable process, while in contrast, photoaging results from the UV rays of sunlight, and the damage becomes apparent in sun-exposed skin. Cream is defined as semisolid emulsions which may be oil-in-water (o/w) or water-in-oil (w/o) type and these semisolid emulsions are meant for external applications. In this study creams (o/w type) were formulated based on the anti-oxidant potential of herbal extracts and its evaluation. Coriandrum sativum plant extracted by using soxhlet method with water as solvent. The creams were formulated with coriander oil, rose hip oil with different concentrations namely F1 to F6.Results: The creams were to be stable during stability studies accordingly ICH guideline for 2 mo. Coriandrum sativum extract showed significant anti-oxidant activity with an IC50 value is 34.25 μg/ml, while for ascorbic acid the IC50 value was 46.68μg/ml.Conclusion: It can be concluded that herbal creams without side effects having antioxidant property can be used as provision of a barrier to protect the skin and avoid aging of the skin.
... In another study, the effectiveness of Argireline ® on wrinkles was evaluated in vivo using an emulsion formulation for normal to dry skin and a gel formulation for oily skin. A significant reduction in the depth and width of wrinkles, as well as an increase in the moisture level of the skin, was confirmed in each volunteer [39]. The usage of Argireline ® in combination with other peptides was also evaluated. ...
Today’s consumer perception and expectations of personal care have gone beyond merely cleansing, moisturizing, and makeup products, focusing more on the reduction or elimination of signs of aging. Cosmeceuticals, developed to create a more youthful appearance, commonly contain substances with therapeutic and physiological effects. The development of cosmeceutical products containing peptides, biotic ingredients, and marine-based compounds has become a highly popular strategy to enhance anti-aging effects and better address consumer demands. Peptides are frequently used in anti-aging products due to their effects on enhancing fibroblast proliferation and collagen synthesis, contributing to the skin’s barrier function, and reducing skin pigmentation. Meanwhile, biotic components are extensively evaluated for their potential to improve barrier function by maintaining the balance of the skin microflora. On the other hand, the increasing interest of cosmetic consumers in natural and eco-friendly products, along with the rich biodiversity in the oceans and seas, has made marine-derived substances highly significant for the cosmetic industry. Marine polysaccharides are particularly valuable as biopolymers, offering useful properties for gel formation in cosmetic formulations. This review discusses scientific studies and commercially available products using peptides, biotic and marine-based compounds in cosmetic formulations, their cosmetic and cosmeceutical benefits, and the challenges in the formulation design of these products.
... An area of 1.5 cm 2 of skin was subjected to application, which occurred twice a day in a standardized manner. The equipment Clinipro Antiaging SD alongside an IMAGE DB system was used for determination of wrinkle depth and width [29]. This peptide is commercialized by Galena ® , a pioneer in the field of distribution of raw materials to pharmaceutical companies, and has the INCI name aqua (and) acetyl hexapeptide-8 (and) phenoxyethanol (and) methylparaben (and) ethylparaben (and) butylparaben (and) propylparaben (and) isobutylparaben [30]. ...
Peptides found in skin can act by different mechanisms of action, being able to function as epidermal or nervous growth factors or even as neurotransmitters. Due to the vast functionality of these compounds, there is growing research on bioactive peptides aimed at investigating their uses in products developed for stimulating collagen and elastin synthesis and improving skin healing. Thus, a literature search on applications of the most common bioactive peptides used in cosmeceuticals was carried out. There is a lack of proper reviews concerning this topic in scientific literature. Nine peptides with specific actions on body and facial dysfunctions were described. It could be noted while searching scientific literature that studies aimed at investigating peptides which prevent aging of the skin are overrepresented. This makes searching for peptides designed for treating other skin dysfunctions more difficult. The use of biomimetic peptides in cosmetic formulations aimed at attenuating or preventing different types of skin dysfunctions is a topic where information is still lackluster. Even though research on these compounds is relatively common, there is still a need for more studies concerning their practical uses so their mechanisms of action can be fully elucidated, as they tend to be quite complex.
... Neutrophils production is also stimulated, increasing the activity of neutrophilderived myeloperoxidase (MPO)a ROS-generating enzyme, and proteases such as elastase and collagenase [13]. A chronic state of oxidative stress is thus caused by the elevated levels of these deleterious skin enzymes and ROS [14][15][16]. As a consequence, the regular skin function can be inhibited, reducing collagen and elastin production, decreasing fibroblasts activity, and inducing skin atrophy in both epidermis and dermis, as well as skin thinning [17]. ...
Despite the great number of substances produced by the skin care industry, very few of them seem to truly have an effect on the skin. Therefore, given the social implications surrounding physical appearance, the search for new bioactive compounds to prevent or attenuate skin aging and enhance self-image is a priority of current research. In this context, being rich in valuable compounds such as proteins, phenolics, lipids and vitamins, this study is focused in the potential activity of rapeseed press cake hydrolyzates to be used as raw materials for skin care applications.
In this study, the protein-rich press residue from the rapeseed oil industry was converted enzymatically into short-chain biologically active peptides using four protease products with varying substrate specificity - Alcalase 2.4L FG, Protex 6L, Protamex and Corolase 7089. The antioxidant, anti-wrinkle and anti-inflammatory activity of the obtained hydrolyzates were evaluated in vitro while their biocompatibility with human skin firoblasts was tested.
All hydrolyzates were biocompatible with skin fibroblasts after 24 h of exposure, while the non-hydrolyzed extract induced cell toxicity. Alcalase 2,4L FG and Protex 6L -obtained hydrolyzates were the most promising extracts showing improved bioactivities suitable for skin anti-aging formulations, namely anti-oxidant activity, inhibiting approximately 80% cellular reactive oxidative species, anti-inflammatory and anti-wrinkle properties, inhibiting around 36% of myeloperoxidase activity and over 83% of elastase activity.
The enzymatic technology applied to the rapeseed oil industry co-stream results in the release of bioactive compounds suitable for skin care applications. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.
This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.
In this study, we investigated the stability of the liposome formulation containing the phytochemicals-peptide derivatives. Among liposomes prepared using lecithins or surfactant under various conditions, the most stable niosome was obtained by using sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate and macadamia intergrifolia seed oil. The stability of peptide-containing niosome (N9) was confirmed by the TEM images. The N9 was stable at 0 and 45 degrees by Turbiscan, and its particle size was 95.7 nm. The N9 showed zeta potential value of -78.19 mV, and peptide-inclusion rate of 65.2% by BCA assay.
Conjugating a phytochemical, a strong antioxidant, with a functional peptide not only compensates for its stability, but also improves its solubility and anti-wrinkle effects, thereby contributing to the possibility of becoming an excellent cosmetic ingredient. Thus, in this study we examined the potential cosmetic use of a phytochemical-peptide derivative using gallic acid, a phytochemical with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-cancer effects. To evaluate the antioxidant and wrinkle-improving efficacy of 5 synthesized gallic acids conjugated with LVH, IVH, KTTKS, YGGFM, and YGGFLRKYP respectively, we observed the expression of genes related to wrinkle improvement using DPPH radical scavenging activity and real-time PCR. As a result, all 5 derivatives had excellent free radical scavenging effects. The expression level of genes involved collagen synthesis also increased, and the secreted peptides during collagen production contributed to their antioxidant and wrinkle improving effects. These results mark the potential use of gallic acid peptide derivatives as a cosmetic ingredient for anti-oxidation and wrinkle improvement.
Bioactive peptides (BAP) showed excellent cosmetic activity than bio-materials such as caffeic acid (CA), gallic acid (GA), and nicotinic acid (NA). Caffeoyl tripeptide-1 (CT-1) is a BAP that is stabilized with Gly-His-Lys (GHK) tripeptide and CA by using Fmoc solid phase peptide synthesis. Digalloyl tetrapeptide-19 (DT-19) is stabilized by combining Lys-Glu-Cys-Gly with GA and nicotinoyl tripeptide-1 (NT-1) is synthesized by GHK and NA. According to experiments, CT-1 has an excellent anti-oxidant function even with a very small amount of 10 ppm CT-1. DT-19's tyrosinase inhibition activity has the better effect of about 28.57% in 0.01% and 33.33% in 0.005% of concentration and about 7.89% in 0.001% concentration than vitamin-C. In addition, NT-1 is safer than the NA. Almost BAPs like pal-KTTKS, acetyl hexapeptide, and copper tripeptide-1 have the anti-wrinkle effect while DT-19 and NT-1 are applicable for potential BAPs focused on the whitening effect. The three kinds of BAPs like CT-1, DT-19, and NT-1 consisting of amino acids are safe to the skin, and have more excellent stability than bio-materials which are found to be unstable and cause skin irritation. Due to the high biological activity of BAP in the field of skin care, its utilization will increase constantly.
Aloe vera is known for its many pharmacological properties, particularly its hydrating capacity. To study this effect we designed two preparations based on silicone and olive oil and containing Aloe vera gel, and tested hydrating capacity in a random sample of healthy volunteers with different types of skin. The two formulations were applied on different parts of the body and hydration was measured with a CM 825 corneometer. In general, on can conclude that the participants preferred the silicone-latex formulation by its organoleptic properties, however, the olive oil-based cream had, in general, a better hydration in all types of skin.
Botulinum toxin has been used for facial hemispasm, strabismus, and blepharospasm. Recently it has been advocated to treat the frown lines. We have extended this program to treatment of other muscles of facial expression.
Botulinum toxin is injected into the muscles of facial expression in two or three sessions to produce a temporary loss of muscle tone. A standard method of cooling, injection, and compression was developed to minimize pain and bruising.
To complete a dose-response study to document the optimum timing and amount of toxin needed for each muscle group.
Two to five Botulinum toxin units per muscle was as adequate as higher doses. Toxin that was reconstituted 30 days earlier produced the same loss of muscle tone as freshly mixed toxin. With two or three injection sessions loss of muscle tone lasted for up to 1 year.
Botulinum toxin is highly effective as an adjuvant therapy for facial rejuvenation. This minor surgical procedure can temporarily reduce the lines on the upper face and produce a pleasing effect. With proper dosing and dilution this rejuvenation program becomes cost effective.
The human preoccupation of experimenting with potentially toxic substances at sublethal doses to enhance beauty spans the ages. The Botox injection is the fastest growing cosmetic procedure, and its physiologic safety profile is considered to be excellent. The psychosocial consequences of Botox have been largely ignored in the literature.
This cross-sectional study investigated the psychosocial issues that can arise as either an antecedent to the treatment or a consequence of it.
Significant differences between clients and control subjects were observed in the four major areas of psychosocial functioning implicated in this study: (a) distress arising from the procedure (anxiety/phobia), (b) worry about the facial changes after the procedure, (c) expectations, involving the discrepancy between expected and actual outcomes of treatment; and (d) dependence, involving the desire for repetitive administration.
The impact of Botox on the psychosocial functioning of individuals was investigated in this study from a psychosocial and clinical perspective in an effort to pave the way for the formulation of national standardized guidelines for the use of Botox. This study empowers the clinician to understand the basis for the relative contraindications of Botox, which are largely psychological in nature, and thus to ensure its administration in a safe and responsible manner.
Wrinkling of the skin is the most obvious sign of deterioration of the human body with age. This process involves a number of genetic, constitutional, hormonal, nutritional, and environmental factors, in addition to the influence of frequently repeated facial movements during laughing, smoking, etc. This article reviews the physiological basis and mechanism of action of the active cosmetic ingredient acetyl hexapeptide-8 (Argireline). We prepared two formulations: an emulsion with an external aqueous phase for normal to dry skin, and a gel for oily skin. Laboratory analyses, rheology tests and in vitro release assays were used to evaluate the stability of these formulations for cosmetic treatment.