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Abstract
Oil-free products are not always the best to use when treating acne. Patients with acne have been shown to have inadequate levels of essential fatty acids in their skin, which contribute to the severity of the condition. Topical supplementation with botanical sources of omega-3 and omega-6 essential fatty acids can dramatically improve the skin of your patients with acne without causing breakouts. Not all oils are comedogenic or pore clogging.
... Traditionally, the wax was utilized by Native Americans for skin-and hair-related applications, e.g., for treating cuts, sores, bruises and burns, including sunburns and windburns (Dary, 2008). Our and others' recent findings validate its ethnobotanical usages as a supreme skin care product, exhibiting anti-inflammatory (Habashy et al., 2005) and antioxidant properties (Abdel-Wahhab et al., 2016;Abou-Zeid et al., 2021), as a psoriasis (Nasr et al., 2017) and acne (Linder, 2008;Meier et al., 2012) treatment, its wound healing (Ranzato et al., 2011) and antiaging activities , and its significant anti-herpes bioactivity (Tietel et al., 2021b). It has also been mentioned that Native Americans used the liquid internally to treat cancer and kidney disorders (Dary, 2008). ...
Jojoba wax is gaining popularity among cosmetics consumers for its skin wound healing and rejuvenation bioactivities, attributed to collagen and hyaluronic acid synthesis. However, information regarding wax phytochemical composition and quality parameters, as well as effect of cultivation practices, and fertilization in particular, on wax quality is limited. The aim of the current work was to study the effect of nitrogen (N) availability to jojoba plants on wax phytochemical composition and beneficial skin-related contents. For this, wax quality from a six-year fertilization experiment with five N application levels was evaluated. The chemical parameters included antioxidant activity, free fatty acid, total tocopherol, total phytosterol and oxidative stability, as well as fatty acid and fatty alcohol profile. Our results reveal that the majority of wax quality traits were affected by N fertilization level, either positively or negatively. Interestingly, while fatty acids were unaffected, fatty alcohol composition was significantly altered by N level. Additionally, fruit load also largely affected wax quality, and, due to jojoba’s biennial alternate bearing cycles, harvest year significantly affected all measured parameters. Results shed light on the effects of N application on various biochemical constituents of jojoba wax, and imply that N availability should be considered part of the entire agricultural management plan to enhance wax quality. Some traits are also suggested as possible chemical quality parameters for jojoba wax.
As skin barrier modulating compounds, fatty acids are frequently used in formulations for transdermal or topical delivery. In this study the effects of oleic acid on keratinocytes in vitro was compared with its in vice skin irritancy in humans. Dose- and time-dependent effects of oleic acid were examined in submerged human keratinocyte cultures,in reconstructed human epidermis (RE-DED), and in excised human skin, using alterations in morphology and changes in interleukin-1α mRNA levels as endpoints. In vitro results were compared with responses of living human skin after topical application of oleic acid, using non-invasive bioengineering methods. Direct interaction of oleic acid and submerged keratinocyte cultures resulted in cell toxicity at very low concentrations of the fatty acid. By contrast, when oleic acid was applied topically on RE-DED or on excised skin, no alterations in morphology were observed. Modulation of stratum corneum thickness indicated a key role of the stratum corneum barrier in the control of oleic acid-induced toxicity. In agreement with these findings, no epidermal tissue damage was seen in vivo, whereas oleic acid induced a mild but clearly visible skin irritation and inflammatory cells were present in the upper dermal blood vessels. Small amounts of oleic acid induced IL-1α mRNA expression in submerged keratinocyte cultures, whereas in RE-DED and in excised skin, IL-1α mRNA levels were increased only when the concentration applied topically was at least. two orders of magnitude higher. It is concluded that minute amounts of oleic acid are sufficient to cause local (i.e. inside the viable epidermis) modulation of cytokine production. These concentrations do not affect morphology but induce skin irritation in vitro. To achieve comparable effects in the skin, much higher topical doses are needed than expected according to the locally required levels, owing to the rate-limiting transport of the fatty acid across the stratum corneum barrier.
We investigated the effect of oral supplementation with evening primrose oil, containing 72% linoleic acid (18:2n-6) and 10% gamma-linolenic acid (18:3n-6), on the epidermal and neutrophil phospholipid fatty acid composition in 15 patients with atopic dermatitis (AD). Three different dose levels, 4, 8 and 12 capsules per day containing 0.5 g oil, were given to three groups of patients. The only n-6 fatty acid showing a significant (p less than 0.05) dose-related increase was dihomo-gamma-linolenic acid (20:3n-6) in neutrophil phospholipids. The highest dose increased dihomo-gamma-linolenic acid by 45% in neutrophil phospholipids, by 46% in lesion-free epidermal phosphatidylcholine, and by 15% in lesion-free epidermal phosphatidylethanolamine. In both lesional and lesion-free epidermis, supplementation resulted in a rise in the ratio between n-6 and monounsaturated fatty acids, reaching significance (p less than 0.05) in lesional epidermis. This study shows that moderate and favorable fatty acid changes can be obtained in the epidermis of AD patients, when given 6 g per day of oil rich in n-6 fatty acids. The abnormal lipid and fatty acid pattern of the atopic epidermis may be involved in the pathogenesis of the disease, and should therefore be the target for future therapeutic approaches with fatty acid supplements.
Products derived from arachidonic acid (AA) via both the cyclo-oxygenase and lipoxygenase pathways play a role in inflammation: prostaglandins (PGs), particularly PGE2, contribute to the formation of oedema, erythema and hyperalgesia whereas leukotriene B4 (LTB4), a product of the 5' lipoxygenase, may modulate the recruitment of leukocytes. We have previously reported that supplementation of a standard rat diet with eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) caused a significant increase in the formation of LTB5, which is less active biologically than LTB4, and a decrease in the synthesis of LTB4 by stimulated leukocytes. Now we have assessed the effects of administration of highly purified EPA ethyl ester (79% pure), in two models of acute inflammation. Supplementation of a standard rat diet with 240 mg/kg/day EPA for 4 weeks significantly decreased the concentration of PGE2 and TXB2 in inflammatory exudate derived from implantation of carrageenin impregnated sponges: neither the concentration of LTB4 nor the cell number were reduced significantly. Triene prostaglandins were not detected in the exudate, however, significant levels of LTB5 were present. In the second model, oedema induced by injection of carrageenin into rat paws was significantly reduced in animals fed an EPA-rich diet. Supplementation of the diet with EPA could, by mainly reducing the synthesis of prostaglandins, offer a novel and non-toxic approach to the modulation of an inflammatory response.
Standard skin wounds have been surgically induced in Wistar albino rats. The wounds were covered with 5% unguentum containing fractions C1 and C5, isolated from the flowers of Calendula officinalis belonging to fam. Compositae, in combination with allantoin. Epithelization has been determined in dynamics as a percentage compared with the beginning of the experiment, using the formula (formula: see text), where t is the wound surface in mm2 and n is the respective day after the beginning of the experiment. The wound exudate has been studied cytologically using light- and fluorescent microscopy on the 8th, 24th and 48th hour after inflicting the wounds. The histological changes in biopsy material taken from the edges of the wounds on the 10th day have also been investigated. The drug combination applied markedly stimulates physiological regeneration and epithelialization. This effect is assumed to be due to more intensive metabolism of glycoproteins, nucleoproteins and collagen proteins during the regenerative period in the tissues.
Abnormalities in plasma composition of essential fatty acids (EFAs) may be associated with the etiology of pruritus and other skin problems in patients undergoing hemodialysis. To study whether an oral supplementation with omega-6 (n-6) EFAs would restore deranged plasma EFAs and ameliorate skin symptoms, 9 and 7 dialysis patients were randomly assigned to receive either gamma-linolenic acid (GLA)-rich evening primrose oil (EPO) or linoleic acid (LA) (2 g/day each) for 6 weeks. Plasma concentrations of EFA were analyzed by gas chromatography and uremic skin symptoms were assessed for dryness, pruritus and erythema by questionnaire and visual inspection in a double-blind manner. The patients given EPO exhibited a significant (p < 0.05) increase in plasma dihomo-gamma-linolenic acid (a precursor of anti-inflammatory prostaglandin E1) with no concomitant change in plasma arachidonic acid (a precursor of pro-inflammatory prostaglandin E2 and leukotriene B4). In contrast, those given LA exhibited a significant (p < 0.05) increase in LA but not in any other n-6 EFAs, whereas they exhibited a significant (p < 0.05) decrease in plasma docosahexaenoic acid. The patients given EPO showed a significant (p < 0.05) improvement in the skin scores for the three different uremic skin symptoms over the baseline values and a trend toward a greater improvement (0.05 < p < 0.1) in pruritus scores than those given LA. Results indicate that GLA-rich EPO would be a more favorable supplemental source than LA in terms of shifting eicosanoid metabolism toward a less inflammation status through modifying plasma concentrations of their precursor n-6 EFAs. Further studies are required to confirm the efficacy and safety of EPO therapy for the treatment of uremic pruritus.
The aim of the present study was to evaluate the in vitro percutaneous absorption and the in vivo anti-inflammatory activity of EPA and DHA fatty acids from three oily extracts, obtained by acetonic extractions from the entrails of different varieties of Mediterranean fishes such as mackerel (Scomber scombrus), sardine (Sardina pilchardus) and horse mackerel (Trachurus mediterraneus). In the first part of our research, we focused our attention on the characterization of the oily extracts to determine their omega-3 polyunsaturated fatty acid content, then, we evaluated the in vitro percutaneous absorption through excised human skin (stratum corneum/epidermis membranes; SCE) of EPA and DHA contained in the extracts. In the second part, the fish oil which guaranteed the best in vitro permeation profile of these omega-3 fatty acids was studied in order to evaluate its inhibiting ability towards the in vivo UVB-induced skin erythema. From the results obtained, all the fish oils tested in this study presented significant amounts of omega-3 fatty acids EPA and DHA, and particularly sardine oil extract showed higher concentrations of these substances compared to the other two fish oils. The in vitro experiments revealed interesting fluxes of these compounds from sardine extract through the stratum corneum/epidermis membranes and an appreciable anti-inflammatory activity against UVB-induced erythema in human volunteers was also observed.