Development and sensory analysis of shampoo for curly hair

Abstract

Objective: This study aimed to compare the sensory performance of a shampoo formulation with Polyurethane-14, AMP-acrylates copolymer (PAAC) in relation to control formulation in curly and natural hair tresses. Methods: Curly and natural hair tresses (n = 8) of equal size and weight were pre-treated by washing with a standard shampoo. After the hair tresses were treated with a formulation containing polymer (formulation A) and compared to hair tresses treated with control formulation (Formulation B). Each panelist (n=2) is asked to indicate which tress performs better for each of seven sensory attributes evaluated (quantity and creamy foam, combing, wet touch, frizz formation, curl definition and volume). It was collected images of hair tresses at 0, 1, 2, 4 and 24 hours of washing, comparing the attributes: volume, frizz formation and curl definition. The results were analyzed using table to test of paired assessment, being: SUPERIOR results - 8 and 7 positive evaluations; SIMILAR results - 2 to 6 positive evaluations; INFERIOR results - 1 and 0 positive evaluations. Results: The addition of the PAAC on the shampoo formulation provided definition and modeling of curls, reducing volume and frizz in 24 hours. There was also lower foam formation in the formulation with polymer PAAC. However, it is important to note that this attribute has inversely proportional effect to the creamy foam, since more creamy foam, smaller quantity. Conclusions: It was concluded that the shampoo developed was effective in defining and modeling curl in natural and curly hair.

Full text

Research Arti cle
DEVELOPMENT AND SENSORY ANALYSIS OF SHAMPOO FOR CURLY HAIR
ROBERTA B RIGON1, RAFAEL R SOU ZA2, REBECA C SOUZA2, APARECIDA E BIGHETTI2, MARLUS CHORILLI1
1Pharmaceutical Sciences Schools, Department of Drugs and Medicines, Universidade Estadual Paulista Júlio de Mesquita Filho, Rodovia
Jau-Araraquara, Km 1, 14801-902, Araraquara - SP, Brazil.2
San Francisco University of Bragança Paulista, USF, Av. São Francisco de Assis,
218, PO Box 163, 12916-900, Bragança Paulista, São Paulo, Brazil.
Received: 11 Mar 2013, Revised and Accepted: 24 Apr 2013
ABSTRACT
Objective: This study aimed to compare the sensory performance of a shampoo formulation with Polyurethane-14, AMP-acrylates copolymer (PAAC)
in relation to control formulation in curly and natural hair tresses.
Methods: Curly and natural hair tresses (n = 8) of equal size and weight were pre-treated by washing with a standard shampoo. After the hair
tresses were treated with a formulation containing polymer (formulation A) and compared to hair tresses treated with control formulation
(Formulation B). Each panelist (n=2) is asked to indicate which tress performs better for each of seven sensory attributes evaluated (quantity and
creamy foam, combing, wet touch, frizz formation, curl definition and volume). It was collected images of hair tresses at 0, 1, 2, 4 and 24 hours of
washing, comparing the attributes: volume, frizz formation and curl definition. The results were analyzed using table to test of paired assessment,
being: SUPERIOR results – 8 and 7 positive evaluations; SIMILAR results – 2 to 6 positive evaluations; INFERIOR results – 1 and 0 positive
evaluations.
Results: The addition of the PAAC on the shampoo formulation provided definition and modeling of curls, reducing volume and frizz in 24 hours.
There was also lower foam formation in the formulation with polymer PAAC. However, it is important to note that this attribute has inversely
proportional effect to the creamy foam, since more creamy foam, smaller quantity.
Conclusions: It was concluded that the shampoo developed was effective in defining and modeling curl in natural and curly hair.
Keywords: Sensory analysis; Shampoo; Polyurethane-14, AMP-acrylates copolymer; Curly hair.
INTRODUCTION
The cosmetic market for hair care has grown rapidly and
competitively in recent years, because hair plays an important role
in the individual appearance and sexual attractiveness and,
therefore, is almost daily subjected to various procedures of hair
care [1]. The advancement of science shows that hair care products
are concerned not only with the cleaning and conditioning, but also
are developed using new trends in fashion and high technology,
looking for care, protection and good looks of the wires [2].
The hairs type and shape are genetically controlled and change with
the races. It was observed that there are some differences between
hair types and some aspects that are similar between them [3].
Human hair contains basically 3 functional chemical groups: acidic,
basic and peptide bonds, which have the potential of binding small
molecules. The hair is constituted of approximately 65-95% protein,
15-35% water, and 1-9% lipids. Furthermore, amino acids like
glycine, threonine, aspartic and glutamic acid, lysine, cysteine and
tyrosine are the major constituents of human hair [4].
In a study publish in American Journal of Physical Anthropology
(1973) the researchers investigate the human hair from various
racial groups using a lot of techniques, including: amino acid
analysis, acrylamide gel electrophoresis, x-ray diffraction studies
and stress-strain analysis. In each of these techniques yielded
identical results for all samples, indicating that the variables
producing phenotypic differences in human hair form are probably
not on the level of primary or secondary biochemical structure [5].
In a comparative study of different racial and ethnic groups, there
was no significant difference in the thickness of the cuticle, scale
size, shape, and cortical cells of blondes compared with blacks. Black
hair has an elliptical shape, whereas Asians have round shaped and
straight hair and the blond hair is intermediate. The length and
degree of curliness is determined genetically. The curly nature of
black hair is believed to be caused by the shape of the hair follicle
[3].
It was described in the literature there is no difference in keratin
types and amino acids compositions between hairs from different
races, although in a study developed in New York showed variation
in the levels of some amino acids between black and blond hairs. The
results indicated that black hair had significantly greater levels of
tyrosinase, phenylalanine, and ammonia, but it were deficient in
serine and threonine [3,6].
In a French study, the researchers observed that the number of
reducible cross-links is the difference between dark and blond hair,
which indicates that the formation of cross-links may be either
under genetic control or in conjugation with pigment production [7].
Hair is a very important for our self-confidence as w ell as for our
appearance and self-concept. It reflects our personality, and hair loss
or hair damages are considered aesthetic imperfections and social
handicap. External part of hair is a shaft keratin fiber structure that
is sensible to environmental effects whether they are mechanical,
physical or chemical [8].
The hair can be exposed to various conditions that can cause
damage to its structure. Examples of this are sun exposure; chemical
treatments (bleaching and permanent waving) and normal
grooming of hair, including combing, brushing, and shampooing [9].
This damage leads to progressive decrease of the moisture in the
hair, capillary leak, which limits the ability of hair to distribute the
natural oils and a feeling of dryness in the wires. Thus, the hair is
with a rigid, rough and fragile structure, with the damaged
appearance and hard combing, besides the frizz and waves inflexible
formation [10].
Excessive sun exposition is the most frequent cause of hair shaft's
structural impairment. Photochemical impairment of the hair
includes degradation and loss of hair proteins as well as degradation
of hair pigment. Furthermore, sun radiation causes dryness, reduced
strength, rough surface texture, decreased luster, stiffness,
brittleness and an overall dull, unhealthy appearance of the hair [8].
In a Japanese study, the results showed that labile protein levels in
hair drastically increased upon permanent waving or bleaching
treatments. The amount of labile protein is a useful index for hair
damage. This index has several superior characteristics compared to
other indexes mentioned above [11].
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The Polyurethane-14, AMP-acrylates copolymer (PAAC) is a polymer
that provides excellent curls modulation and frizz control while
maintaining the natural appearance and flexible wires.
A research produced by Martino, Vitale and Venemon (2003)
showed that polyurethane and acrylates are a hair styling polymer
that maintain flexibility and shape memory in the hair. These results
were observed in tests of viscosity, drying time, tack, film toughness
and spot weld bond strength [12].
This study aimed to develop and to compare the sensory
performance of a shampoo formulation with Polyurethane-14, AMP-
acrylates copolymer (PAAC) in relation to control formulation in
curly and natural hair tresses.
MATERIALS AND METHODS
Development of the Formulations
To carry out the subjective comparative test of sensory evaluation of
shampoo, it was used a formulation containing deionized water;
cocamidopropyl betaine; sodium laureth sulfate; cocamide
diethanolamine; sodium chloride; mixture of isothiazolinone, with the
addition of: (A) 0.5% Polyurethane-14, AMP-acrylates copolymer or (B)
without the addition of Polyurethane-14, AMP-acrylates copolymer. The
formulations were prepared add the components one by one.
Sensory Evaluation
Equal size and weight curly and natural hair tresses (n = 8) were pre-
treated by washing with a standard shampoo. After, hair tresses were
treated with a formulation containing the polymer (formulation A)
and compared to the hair tresses treated with the control formulation
(Formulation B). Each panelist (n=2) is asked to indicate which tress
performs better for each of seven sensory attributes evaluated
(quantity and creamy foam, combing, wet touch, frizz formation, curl
definition and volume) in comparing the two test formulations on the
treated hair tresses. It was collected images of the hair tresses at 0, 1,
2, 4 and 24 hours of washing, comparing the attributes: volume, frizz
formation and curl definition.
Analysis of Results
The results were analyzed using the table to test of paired
assessment. The minimum number of correct judgments to establish
significance at various levels of probability for unilateral paired
comparison test (p = 0.5) [13]. Thus, the results possibilities are:
SUPERIOR results – 8 and 7 positive evaluations; SIMILAR results –
2 to 6 positive evaluations; INFERIOR results – 1 and 0 positive
evaluations. After analysis of the results is possible to tell whether
the shampoo with polymer is statistically superior, similar or
inferior than control shampoo (without the polymer), with 96%
reliability of the results [14].
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
After the hair tresses were treated with a formulation containing the
polymer (formulation A) and compared to the hair tresses treated
with the control formulation (Formulation B), it was analyzed the
tress performs better for each of seven sensory attributes evaluated
(quantity and creamy foam, combing, wet touch, frizz formation, curl
definition and volume).
The results of sensory analyses indicates the formulation with
polymer (Formulation A) there was lower foam formation
compared with the formulation without a poly mer (Formulation
B) (Figure 1). This is because the smaller the bubbles are, the
smaller the amount of foam, indicating that it will be thicker.
However, it is important to note that this attribute has inversely
proportional effect to the creamy foam, since the more creamy
foam, the smaller quantity.
In the test which analyses frizzy hair, the results indicated that the
addition of the PAAC on the shampoo formulation provides reducing
in the formation of the frizz throughout the day. This result was
expected since the polymer has action of clamping on the hair
(Figure 2). The same was observed in the test that analyses the hair
volume, it was observed that the addition of the polymer control the
hair volume in 24 hours (Figure 3).
Fig. 1: Foam formation by: A. Formulation with polymer (Formulation A) and B. Formulation without the polymer (Formulation B).
Fig. 2: Results of analyses frizzy hair after hair tresses were treated with a formulation containing PAAC (formulation A) and compar ed to
the hair tresses treated with the control formulation (Formulation B).

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Int J Pharm Pharm Sci, Vol 5, Issue 3, 270-273
272
Fig. 3: Results of analyses the hair volume after hair tresses were treated with a formulation containing PAAC (formulation A) and
compared to the hair tresses treated with the control formulation (Formulation B).
Fig. 4: Results of definition and modeling the curls after hair tresses were treated with a formulation containing PAAC (formulation A) and
compared to the hair tresses treated with the control formulation (Formulation B).
In the analyses of definition and modeling the curls, the formulation
A is statistically superior in compare with formulation B proving a
difference in hair appearance throughout the study period. The
formation of curls and their maintenance during the day is the main
feature provided by the polymer PAAC, because it has the function of
modeling and setting the curls and gives a durable modeling for
curls throughout the day (Figure 4).
Through the tests realized we can conclude that the shampoo
developed was satisfactory, because it corresponds to the main
objective that is the definition and modeling the curls of natural and
curly hair.
Volume control of curly hair and reduced in the frizzy hair over a
period of 24 hours were observed after addition of polymer in
shampoo formulation.
The analyses of foam formation are important observe that the foam
formation is inversely proportional effect to the creamy foam, since
the more creamy foam, the smaller quantity. This fact is not related
to cleaning of the hair, so does not impair the purpose of the
shampoo, which is cleanse the hair.
So, it is concluded that the shampoo developed was effective in
defining and modeling curl in natural and curly hair.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
The authors wish to thank CAPES, PADC, FAPESP and CNPq for the
financial support and Akzo Nobel Personal Care for availability of
equipment.
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