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Abstract

Diamond like carbon (DLC) coatings are well-known for the properties like protection against wear, low friction of coefficient and high hardness. In this research sewing needles are coated with DLC layer and then investigated for sewing performance. The results of the research shows that the needle temperature is decreased by nearly 9% at 4000 r/min of sewing and the breaking tenacity of stitched thread is nearly 6% higher as compared to the non-coated needles.

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... To achieve this, many aspects of the sewing process need to be closely monitored, to understand and improve them for better care-free performance [7,8]. Semi-automatic sewing machines are already on the market, though they still need constant quality management by workers [9]. ...
... The temperature measurement of sewing needles is quite complicated small dimension, low emissivity, and high speed during use. There are ma and techniques used by researchers [4][5][6][7][8][9] to observe needle temperature, i frared pyrometer, contact sensors, and sensitive waxes/colors, etc. Moreov proved knowledge of sewing needle heating, there are many improvements made in the design of needle, as well as the use of lubricants and coatings, wh to decrease needle temperature. ...
... The temperature measurement of sewing needles is quite complicated due to their small dimension, low emissivity, and high speed during use. There are many methods and techniques used by researchers [4][5][6][7][8][9] to observe needle temperature, including infrared pyrometer, contact sensors, and sensitive waxes/colors, etc. Moreover, with improved knowledge of sewing needle heating, there are many improvements [21,22] to be made in the design of needle, as well as the use of lubricants and coatings, which can help to decrease needle temperature. ...
Article
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Medical textiles, such as gowns, scrubs, and even disposable uniforms, are all stitched by sewing machines. These garments are mostly made from polypropylene (PP) and polyester due to their durability, antibacterial performance, and functionality. Demand for these garments has significantly risen in the last few years, and sewing machines are able to stitch at extremely high speeds. However, higher sewing speeds can cause burnt spots on the fabric, lower seam strength, and a decrease in production due to thread breakage. In this paper, I have deeply discussed how medical textiles lose their strength and functionality due to higher sewing speeds; this problem is often neglected due to high production demands. This research is based on PP medical gowns, stitched with polyester (PET) threads, sewn at different speeds. The experimental work is also followed by a theoretical explanation of needle heating during the stitching of medical textiles.
... Our research has been primarily focused on selected objective methods, but we must consider the shape of clothing construction as well; therefore deal with a required fit and sequence of a clothing layer on human body surface [8][9]. The phenomenon of heat transfer under the sewing process has also influence on manufacturing clothes [10][11]. Clothing helps thermoregulation when the body itself is not capable of auto-regulation. ...
... For the first layer of the garment, very important qualities are to be able to convey a perception of wearing comfort to the user. These are determining utility qualities in the order of 8,9,10,11,12, and 13 (table 3). Utility properties 2, 3, 4 are carriers of durability characteristics of clothes. ...
Article
The aim of this study was testing the first layer of clothing. It can be used separately, or together with other layers of textiles in the sandwich structure of clothing. As this layer is in direct contact with the skin, the evaluation does not focus only on its thermo physiological properties, but also on sensory perception of the fabric. The main purpose of this layer is to transport heat and moisture from the skin to surface, or to the other layers. One way of assessing the physiological comfort of the garment is testing garments under defined conditions and standards in a laboratory. For testing, T-shirts made from 100 percent natural fibres, chemical fibres, and also mixed fibres for the comparison were chosen. Experimental work was carried out in the following two steps of laboratory testing: measurement of selected utility properties in the Laboratory of Physiological Comfort, and the measurement degree of Total Hand Value in the Kawabata Evaluation System. For the prediction of clothing comfort and the garment performance quick assessment, a simple equation for the comparison of the selected set of T-shirts was also created.
... Our research has been primarily focused on selected objective methods, but we must consider the shape of clothing construction as well; therefore deal with a required fit and sequence of a clothing layer on human body surface [8][9]. The phenomenon of heat transfer under the sewing process has also influence on manufacturing clothes [10][11]. Clothing helps thermoregulation when the body itself is not capable of auto-regulation. ...
... For the first layer of the garment, very important qualities are to be able to convey a perception of wearing comfort to the user. These are determining utility qualities in the order of 8,9,10,11,12, and 13 (table 3). Utility properties 2, 3, 4 are carriers of durability characteristics of clothes. ...
Article
Full-text available
The aim of this study was testing the first layer of clothing. It can be used separately, or together with other layers of textiles in the sandwich structure of clothing. As this layer is in direct contact with the skin, the evaluation does not focus only on its thermo physiological properties, but also on sensory perception of the fabric. The main purpose of this layer is to transport heat and moisture from the skin to surface, or to the other layers. One way of assessing the physiological comfort of the garment is testing garments under defined conditions and standards in a laboratory. For testing, T-shirts made from 100 percent natural fibres, chemical fibres, and also mixed fibres for the comparison were chosen. Experimental work was carried out in the following two steps of laboratory testing: measurement of selected utility properties in the Laboratory of Physiological Comfort, and the measurement degree of Total Hand Value in the Kawabata Evaluation System. For the prediction of clothing comfort and the garment performance quick assessment, a simple equation for the comparison of the selected set of T-shirts was also created. © 2018 Inst. Nat. Cercetare-Dezvoltare Text. Pielarie. All rights reserved.
... Other studies, e.g., Mazari et. al., have also analysed different coatings for needle heating, with some concluding that DLC (Diamond-like carbon) coating has a positive effect on reducing needle temperature by reducing friction [18]. ...
Article
Full-text available
Due to the increasing demand in the clothing industry, industrial sewing machines operate at high speeds ranging from 2000 to 3000 revolutions per minute. One of the most significant problems that adversely affect the stitching quality and efficiency is the needle temperature, which reaches up to 300 oC and is influenced by various parameters such as machine speed, thread tension, and fabric properties. In this study, the heat generated from the friction between the needle and the textile surface in knitted fabrics and the fabric properties affecting heat are examined. Four different knitting techniques and twelve different knitted fabrics with varying weights, thicknesses, and blend properties were used. An Optris CT3M pyrometer was employed to measure the temperature on the needle. The results can be summarized as follows: in all knitted fabrics, an increase in fabric weight and thickness was observed to correspond to an increase in needle temperature values. The highest needle temperature values above 90 oC were obtained in TF2-coded three-thread fleece fabric with a fabric thickness of 1.31 mm and a fabric weight of 340 g/m2, while the lowest needle temperatures of 66 oC and below were achieved in the lightest and thinnest fabric with a fabric weight of 100 g/m2 and a thickness of 0.39 mm. Additionally, no significant relationship was found between fabric stitching density and needle temperature.
... Initial studies conducted on the subject revealed that after sewing, there is a 60% reduction in the strength of the sewing thread. Further studies concluded that in cotton sewing threads, 30-40% fall in the strength of the sewing thread is observed following the sewing operation (Mazari, Havelka, Wiener, & Zbigniew, 2015). ...
Article
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In recent years, wet (washing, bleaching, etc.) and dry (abrasive, laser shaping, rodeo, etc.) operations applied on fashion denim products have become an important factor to increase the added value. However, these wet and dry processes applied to the denim products may have adverse effects on the strength of the fabric and other supplementary materials of denim products. For example, thread breakages affect the repair ratios and quality of products, which causes time and profitability losses in companies. The main objective of this study is to analyse how the types of washing affect the strength of the sewing threads that are commonly used in the production of denim trousers. In this study, 100% cotton denim fabric with a weight of 11.5 ounces and two different sewing threads were used. The fabrics are sewn as trouser legs with chain and lock stitch. Five different washes were applied to the trouser legs. The obtained data were evaluated in the R statistical program. As a result of the analyses made it is proven that the washing techniques used have an effect on the sewing threads’ tensile strength and elongation at break. The tensile strengths of lock stitch and chain stitch decrease averagely 35% and elongation at break of lock stitch decreases %22 and chain stitch decreases 29.8%.
... The rubbing at the top of needle eye can cause local abrasion and cutting of the thread. In early research work reported 60% reduction in thread strength after sewing [6][7]. Later a number of researcher observed that there could be 30-40% strength reduction in the cotton thread after sewing [8]. ...
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This article experimentally investigates various physical properties of special fire retardant sewing threads under different sewing speeds. The aramid threads are common for sewing the fire-fighter clothing due to high strength and high melting temperature. 3 types of aramid threads with different linear densities are used for sewing at different speed of 2000 to 4000 r/min. The needle temperature is measured at different speeds of sewing and tensile properties of threads are measured before and after the sewing process respectively. The results shows that the friction and abrasion during the sewing process causes a significant loss to the tensile properties of the threads and needle temperature rises to nearly 300 degrees C at 4000 r/min of machine speed. The Scanning electron microscope images are taken before and after the sewing process and show no melting spots but significant damage to the yarn. It is also found that machine speed of 2000r/min is ideal for sewing firefighter clothing for higher tensile properties and production.
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Recently the awareness of the demand on eco-friendly dyes in textile applications is increased, since the natural dyes can reveal better biodegradability and generally have a higher compatibility with the environment. This study was conduct on the natural dyes of Crocus Sativus (saffron), growing in Dumre (Elbasan Region). As a natural dye, saffron petals are used in this study for dying cellulosic (cotton) and proteinic (wool) yarns. A series of dyeing were done with the dye extracted from these petals, using two different concentrations of the dye and two types of mordants. Also different method of mordanting like pre, meta or post mordant method are used. The mordant effect on hue, light, wash fastness and perspiration of dyed cotton and wool yarns was investigate as key properties for technical and commercial success. A wide range of shades were obtained because of varying mordant and combinations, from light yellow to light brown. To determinate the amount of the color absorbed by fibres was measured absorbance and transmittance from the solutions taken from each dyeing process. The color fastness properties of the saffron dyed samples are analysed and evaluated based on standard methods, where the washing and perspiration fastness of the dyed samples were assessed giving fair to excellent fastness grades. The results taken give us information on which process of dying and mordant used provides good color fastness. These are helpful information for the use of saffron flowers as a natural dye in textile industry.
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Use of natural dyes has increased several folds in the past few years due to the eco-friendly approach of the people. In this paper we present the experimental results of a dyeing process of cotton fabrics with natural colouring matter extracted from Crocus Sativus (saffron). The natural dye was extracted by aqueous method at boiling conditions. Two mordants Fe2(SO4)3 and Al2(SO4)3 were used in pre-mordanting, post-mordanting and simultaneous-mordanting methods. Cotton fabrics were dyed with colouring solutions of 2.5% and 5%, first without mordant and then with mordant. The color of cotton fabrics dyed without mordant and with mordant was estimated and was observed that the intensity of color varies. It was pointed out, that the best colouring of the sample was in simultaneous-mordanting process. To see the amount of colouring solution that has been absorbed by sample, absorbance was measured for extracts obtained from dyeing process in each case and was observed that the simultaneous-mordanting process gives the best results compared to other processes. Also it was found that Fe2(SO4)3 was the best mordant for cotton fabrics in case of dyestuff 2.5% and Al2(SO4)3 was for dyestuff 5%.
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In this article, three different methods (thermal camera, attached thermocouple and inserted thermocouple) are used to measure sewing needle temperatures on a lockstitch machine. The experiments were conducted at machine speeds from 16 stitches/sec to 66 stitches/sec and for a maximum time of 60 seconds. This research is useful for predicting the real temperature of needles at different sewing speeds and for comparing methods of measurement. The inserted thermocouple method showed the lowest standard deviation and highly reproducible results. The results for all the measurement techniques are compared at different sewing speeds and will be beneficial for researchers who have made theoretical models for sewing needle temperatures and need to verify them using experimental results. The information in this article will also be useful for thread lubricant producers who use thermal cameras for needle temperature measurement. All of our experiments indicate that the needle temperature is always higher when thread is used, which is contradictory to the results of some researchers, who have found that needle temperature is lower when thread is used.
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In this article a multiple regression analysis is performed using MATLAB to predict the sewing needle temperature of a lockstitch machine for 100% denim fabric. The variables like stitches/cm, sewing speed, number of fabric sewing are chosen as input parameters. Needle temperature was experimentally measured by Inserted thermocouple method. A three-level four factorial Box-Behnken experimental design (constructed using Minitab 16) is used to evaluate the effects of the selected independent variables on the response. The results from the experiments are used for statistical model, which can help finding the optimum experimental conditions and the relationships between needle temperature and selected parameters. It is observed that sewing speed is the most important factor fo needle temperature followed by sewing time, number of layers and the stitch density. The model has error percentage of less than 10% and can be easily used at the sewing floor for calculating needle temperature.
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Needle heatup is a big issue for apparel industry especially for automobile industry seat covers where a lot of synthetic materials are used which get damaged by needle heat at high speed of sewing machine,in this article thermocamera and thermocouple are used to measure the precise temperature of needle eye and then 100% polyester 35x3 Tex thread is taken for sewing,the lockstitch sewing machine is run at 1000rpm,2000rpm and 3000rpm respectively and the both methods are used to obtain the accurate needle temperature and finally thread tensile properties are measured before the sewing and taking out the thread from the seam precisely to get the tensile properties of thread after 10,30 and 60 seconds of continuous stitching,the article is very helpful in predicting the exact temperature of needle in lock stitch machine and getting the damage to thread by the needle heat at different speeds and different stages of sewing process.
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In this work, the tensile properties of a sewing thread, i.e. tenacity, breaking elongation and initial modulus of two common industrial sewing polyester-polyester core spun threads, were studied at four sewing stages. Firstly, the needle heat was measured at different speeds from 1000 rpm to 4700 rpm of an industrial lockstitch sewing machine with the inserted thermocouple method. Secondly, the tensile properties of a thread were compared at different predefined sections of the sewing thread in the sewing process. The results show that the needle heat and bobbin thread interaction has a great impact on the sewing thread tensile strength, while the tensile strength is minimal at the point when the machine stops and the thread is in direct contact with the hot needle. Tenacity, breaking elongation and initial modulus decrease substantially with a higher speed of the machine as the needle temperature increases. At 4000 rpm of the sewing speed, the sewing thread loses 50% of its tenacity as the needle temperature reaches nearly 250 °C, the impact being higher for higher count (linear densities) threads.
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This is the second part of our study on needle heating in heavy industrial sewing. In this part, a finite element analysis (FEA) model is presented. Using a commercial FEA software system, ANSYS, the needle is modeled by a number of 3D bar elements and the sewing process is modeled by a series of time and space dependent boundary conditions. The model considers various important factors such as the needle geometry (including the point angle and point length of the needle), the friction between the needle and the fabric, the friction between the needle eye and the thread, the fabrics’ material property, and the sewing conditions. It can predict needle heating in high accuracy. In order to validate the model, a large number of experiments were conducted, in which the needle temperatures were measured using infrared radiometry. It is found that the simulation results match the experiment results very well. Finally, a number of suggestions to reduce the needle heating are presented.
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In this study, different amounts of lubricant were applied to air-jet polyester, polyester-spun, core-spun (poly/poly) and cotton ring sewing threads having the same final count. Mechanical and frictional properties of these sewing threads were measured. An evaluation was made in order to determine the effect of the amount of lubrication on yarn elongation, frictional forces, friction coefficient, electrostatic charging and seam breaking strength of different sewing thread types. The relationship between yarn strength and seam breaking strength was also evaluated.
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With the use of synthetic fabrics and threads in high speed sewing, needle heating due to friction between the needle and the fabric becomes a serious problem which limits further increase of the sewing speed. The high temperature in the needle can accelerate thread wear, cause wear at the needle eye, and damage the thread. It can also scorch the fabric, as well as temper and weaken the needle itself. Experimental methods, such as: infrared radiometry, infrared pyrometry, etc., have been applied to analyze this problem in previous studies. They revealed some important factors that affect the needle peak steady state temperature. In this study the numerical (FEA) model developed to simulate the needle heating is fine tuned and verified via infrared radiometry. The FEA model incorporates detailed needle geometry and the effects of thread on needle heating. It deals with a transient heat transfer process with time and position dependent boundary conditions. It correlates various important factors that affect the needle heating, such as needle characteristics, fabric properties, and sewing conditions to the needle temperature distribution. Given various needle geometries, sewing conditions, and fabric properties, the model can simulate the needle heating process, including the initial heating phase and the steady state. It can also predict the temperature distribution in the needle as well as the time to reach steady state. The trends of the simulation results correlate well with experiments.