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Colour Fastness and Tensile Strength of Cotton Fabric Dyed with Natural Extracts of Alkanna tinctoria by Continuous Dyeing Technique

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A natural dye extracted from the roots of alkanet (Alkanna tinctoria) was applied on cotton fabric by pad-steam dyeing technique. The study was designed to evaluate the colour fastness and tensile properties of dyed cotton after using various mordants, cationizing agents, UV absorbers and crosslinkers with this natural dye. Metallic mordants included aluminium sulphate, copper sulphate, ferric chloride, potassium dichromate and hydrated potassium aluminum sulphate or alum. Alkanet root extract produced variety of green shades with different dyeing auxiliaries. Better wash, light, crocking fastness; good colour coordinates such as chroma, hue, colour strength and increase in tensile strength was accomplished with post-mordanting of CuSO4. Cationization of cotton with quaternary ammonium compound (both pre-treatment and post-treatment) and post-finishing with soft polyurethane emulsion has enhanced the fastness properties, tensile strength as well as relative colour strength (K/S) , whereas, reactive UV absorber based on oxalanilide and heterocyclic compound as UV absorber greatly increased the light fastness of alkanet dyed cotton. Crosslinkers applied with alkanet dye on cotton (methylolation product based on glyoxalmonourein, modified dimethyloldihydroxyethylene urea, modified dihydroxy ethylene urea) also improved the fastness but could not bring further development in the shade and K/S value of the dyed samples.
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Shahnaz Parveen Khattak et al., J.Chem.Soc.Pak., Vol. 37, No. 05, 2015 903
Colour Fastness and Tensile Strength of Cotton Fabric Dyed with Natural Extracts of
Alkanna tinctoria by Continuous Dyeing Technique
1Shahnaz Parveen Khattak, 1Shabana Rafique, 2Tanveer Hussain, 1Faiza Inayat and 3Bashir Ahmad*
1College of Home Economics, University of Peshawar, Pakistan
2National Textile University, Faisalabad, Pakistan.
3Centre of Biotechnology and Microbiology, University of Peshawar, Pakistan.
bashirdr2015@yahoo.com*
(Received on 24th March 2015, accepted in revised ofrm 23rd July 2015)
Summary: A natural dye extracted from the roots of alkanet (Alkanna tinctoria) was applied on
cotton fabric by pad-steam dyeing technique. The study was designed to evaluate the colour fastness
and tensile properties of dyed cotton after using various mordants, cationizing agents, UV absorbers
and crosslinkers with this natural dye. Metallic mordants included aluminium sulphate, copper
sulphate, ferric chloride, potassium dichromate and hydrated potassium aluminum sulphate or alum.
Alkanet root extract produced variety of green shades with different dyeing auxiliaries. Better wash,
light, crocking fastness; good colour coordinates such as chroma, hue, colour strength and increase
in tensile strength was accomplished with post-mordanting of CuSO4. Cationization of cotton with
quaternary ammonium compound (both pre-treatment and post-treatment) and post-finishing with
soft polyurethane emulsion has enhanced the fastness properties, tensile strength as well as relative
colour strength (K/S) , whereas, reactive UV absorber based on oxalanilide and heterocyclic
compound as UV absorber greatly increased the light fastness of alkanet dyed cotton. Crosslinkers
applied with alkanet dye on cotton (methylolation product based on glyoxalmonourein, modified
dimethyloldihydroxyethylene urea, modified dihydroxy ethylene urea) also improved the fastness
but could not bring further development in the shade and K/S value of the dyed samples.
Key words: Colour fastness, Tensile strength, Natural dye, Alkanna tinctoria, Continuous dyeing,
crosslinkers.
Introduction
Alkanna tinctoria is a perennial herb which
belongs to borage family. It grows as wild weed and
has small- sized bright blue flowers with grey-green
leaves. It is also known as dyer's alkanet. Its dye is
obtained from the extracts of dried roots that contain
several naphthoquinone derivatives but chief of them
are alkannin esters. It poses satisfactory antioxidant
activity and is mostly used in the colouration of
textiles, food, soap and cosmetics. It can also act as
an indicator due to its varying shades in different pH
values. For example, it is blue at pH 10; purple at pH
8.8; and red at pH 6.8. Its root extract also changes to
blue by treatment with alkali hydroxides. The
colouring component of alkanet i.e., alkannin is
believed to have deep red colour in oily or greasy
media and violet in alkaline media. The dye is also
used as food and cosmetic colouring [1, 2]. Its
molecular formula is C16H16 O5 and its chemical
structure as naphthoquinone (scheme 1) was first
determined in 1936 [3].
Textile dyeing processes consist of batch,
continuous or semi-continuous. Batch dyeing process
is also called an exhaust dyeing. In this dyeing
process, temperature is the most important parameter.
It is usually maintained up to 100oC for a good
quality fabric. Pad-batch is a kind of semi-
continuous dyeing process, which is primarily used
for dyeing natural and manmade cellulosic fabrics
like cotton or viscose with reactive dyes [4].
Scheme-1: Structure of alkannin.
Traditionally, exhaust dyeing is practiced
with natural dyes. However, fastness properties and
shades of comparable depth are attributed to the
modifications and variety in application methods for
natural dyes as compared to those obtained by
traditional methods [5]. Large amounts of water is
used in various wet processes by the textile industry,
as a result of which great volumes of textile waste
water is produced, which gets changed by chemicals
and unconsumed dyes. Rubbing of crushed pigments
*To whom all correspondence should be addressed.
Shahnaz Parveen Khattak et al., J.Chem.Soc.Pak., Vol. 37, No. 05, 2015 904
into a cloth or sticking plants to fabric are some of
the primitive techniques of natural dyeing [6]. These
methods and other processes have gradually been
improved with the passage of time and new
techniques have been developed.
The methods of dye extraction of natural
colourants and dyeing procedures that have been
explained by the traditional dyers do not present/offer
a complete picture. Therefore, a need of developing
and standardizing new methods of extraction and
purification of natural dyes arises. In order to have
the final dye powder containing maximum dyeing
colours, methods of drying of colours as well as
extraction and purification of dyes have now been
developed. For obtaining shades with acceptable
light, wash and rubbing fastness, cotton fabrics can
be padded with low concentration of mordant and
natural dyes [5]. Every mordant-dye combination
presents a unique feature on account of the optimum
amount of mordant needed for the same amount of
dye. Commonly used continuous dyeing methods
include: pad-steam, pad-pad-steam (wet-on-wet),
pad-dry-pad-steam and pad-dry-cure. Among all
these, pad-dry-pad-steam is conventionally used for
100% cotton fabrics where dye is applied on the first
pad and then the fabric is dried [7].
Pad dyeing usually gives good dye
penetration and leveling, low tailing risk and
excellent washing off as well as wet fastness. The
advantages of pad-dye pad-steam process includes
high colour yield, cost-effectiveness for large
production runs, neat attractive appearance of the
dyed fabric, better reproducibility and no detrimental
influence on chlorine and light fastness [8]. Tailing is
minimized at low temperature of the formulation in
padder, while at high temperature wetting is
promoted within a short span of time till the fabric is
in the pad formation. For dyeing long runs of a
particular shade, continuous dye range provides the
most efficient and economical process. Padding
technologies are particularly beneficial for dye
application with products exhibiting low affinity. In
case of this process, the dye’s affinity to fibre is
unnecessary in the phase of dye deposition [9].
Material and Methods
Extraction of Dye
The roots of Alkanet were acquired from
Pride International, Karachi. To isolate colour from
the roots, a solvent extraction procedure was
performed with soxhlet apparatus, using ethanol as an
organic solvent. Rotary evaporator was used to
evaporate the solvent. The roots were chopped
manually and then the dried and chopped root
material of plant was refluxed with ethanol. The
extract was evaporated to get a powder form.
Preparation of Fabric
Light-weight; 100 % cotton; plain woven
fabric with thread count of 62 ends and 60 picks per
inch and weight per unit area or GSM of 70 g/m2)
was desized by industrial scale pad-batch method.
Scouring and bleaching was carried out by pad-steam
method. Formulation for desizing involved 2 g/L of
Bactosol MTN (bacterial amylase, by Clariant Ltd)
treated under pH 6-6.5 at 60 °C for 1 hour. Recipe for
scouring comprised 15 g/L of NaOH; 1 g/L of
wetting agent, 2g/L of sequestering agent (Polyron by
Clariant Ltd) and 1 g/L of detergent. All the
ingredients were processed at 80-90 °C for 1 hour.
Bleaching was carried out by adding 10 g/L
of hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) in the formulation.
Other substances were: 2 g/L of NaOH (pH 10-10.5),
2 g/L of stabilizer (Pentex GP, by Clariant Ltd) and 1
g/L sequestering agent all managed at 80-90 °C for 1
hour. Eventually, the desized, scoured and bleached
fabric was cut into small pieces of 12×18 inches each
for the application of various dyeing recipes.
Preparation of Dyeing Recipes
Dye bath for control (untreated) sample was
prepared by adding 30 g/L of dye together with 1 g/L
of wetting agent, i.e., Albaflow Conti (Table-1) and 1
g/L of migration inhibitor. Dye formulation of pre-
treatment and post-treatment included 20 g/L of a
specific mordant or 30 g/L of UV absorbers, Dicrylan
and Fixative finishes or 50 g/L of crosslinkers.
Fabric Dyeing
A continuous dyeing or pad-steam dyeing
procedure (two-bath-two-stage) with a 3-dip-3-nip
treatment and a wet pick up of 80% was carried out
following drying for 3 minutes at 1200C and then
steaming the sample for 10 minutes at 1000C. Dyeing
was accomplished by heavy duty padding mangle
machine. For the pre-treatment of auxiliaries, the
sequence of experiment was:
Pad (treatment) Dry (air) Steam → Pad (dye)
→ Dry (1200C) → Steam
Shahnaz Parveen Khattak et al., J.Chem.Soc.Pak., Vol. 37, No. 05, 2015 905
Control sample K2Cr2O7
pre- mordant
K2Cr2O7
post- mordant
Alum
pre-mordant
Alum
post-mordant
CuSO4
pre-mordant
CuSO4
post-mordant
FeCl3
pre -mordant
FeCl3
post-mordant
Al2(SO4)3
pre-mordant
Albafix
pre-treatment
Albafix
post-treatment
UV-SUN
pre-treatment
Fixapret CPF
pre-treatment
Knittex RCT
pre-treatment
Fig 1: Shades produced by cotton samples dyed with alkanet under different conditions.
Table-1: Dyeing auxiliaries used in this study for the colouration of cotton [10].
Commercial Name Function Chemical constitution Supplier
Thermacol MP Migration Inhibitor Aqueous solution of a poly-acrylic acid derivatives Huntsman Textile Effects
Albaflow Conti Penetration Accelerant Preparation based on fat ty alcohol ethoxylate and alkyl phosphoric acid Huntsman Textile Effects
Albafix WFF Cationizing Agent Aqueous preparation of a polymeric, quaternary ammonium comp ound Huntsman Textile Effects
Dicrylan Finishing Agent Multipurpose polymer/polyurethane emulsion Huntsman Textile Effects
UV- SUN Reactive UV absorber based on an oxalanilide Huntsman Textile Effects
Rayosan C
UV Absorbers
Fibre-reactive UV absorbers/ heterocyclic comp ound Clariant Pakistan Ltd.
Fixapret CPF Methylolation product based on glyoxalmonourein BASF Pakistan (pvt) Ltd
Fixapret F-ECO Modified dimethyloldihydroxyethylene urea BASF Pakistan (pvt) Ltd
Knittex RCT
Crosslinking Agents
Modified dihydroxy ethylene urea Huntsman Textile Effects
In the post-treatment procedure, the sample
was dyed first and then padded the dyed sample with
a specific dyeing auxiliary.
Fabric Testing
Colour characteristics of dyed fabrics were
measured to check the effect of various dyeing
auxiliaries on colour fastness properties fabric dyed
with Alkanet root extract. Standard methods of ISO
such as ISO 105-C06 [11] for wash fastness, ISO
105X-12 [12] for crocking fastness and ISO 105 BO2
[13] for light fastness have been employed. Samples
were checked through CIE La*b* and CIE LC*ho
system using spectrophotometer SF 600 [14]. Tensile
strength of all the samples was tested using electronic
tensile tester, Testometric 220 D, according to
standard procedure of testing [15].
Results and Discussion
Data related to the colour fastness, colour
strength (K/S) and tensile strength of alkanet dyed
cotton samples with various pre and post-padding of
auxiliaries are included in Tables 2 & 3 and displayed
through Figs 1- 3.
Shades Obtained with Alkanet Root Extracts
Dyeing of cotton fabric with natural extracts
of alkanet by twenty-five different dyeing recipes
produced greenish (inclined towards grey) colour
samples. On the basis of intensity and shades,
samples were grouped as medium greenish-grey,
greenish-brown and yellowish-brown. The most
greenish, smooth and level dyed sample was yielded
by the recipe of post-mordanting potassium
dichromate (Fig-1). This was followed by a coloured
sample obtained from the post-mordanting of copper
sulphate. Medium greyish-green samples were
resulted from the pre-treatments of aluminium
sulphate, Fixapret CPF, Knittex, and both pre and
post-treatment of Rayosan C. These samples were
exactly similar in shade to the control sample. These
findings support the earlier work of [16] who
reported a range of colours produced by various
mordants with natural dyes.
Colour Fastness of Alkanet Dyed Cotton
Table-2 contains data related to the wash,
crocking and light fastness of cotton dyed with
various dyeing formulas of alkanet. Recipes having
FeCl3 as pre-mordant, Al2(SO4)3 as post-mordant,
K2Cr2O7 as post-mordant and Dicrylan as post-finish
yielded good (4 GS) wash fastness. Most of the
auxiliaries produced samples with dry rubbing equal
to 4-5 on Grey-scale, thereby, representing very good
fastness performance of dyed articles. Maximum
light fastness of 5 Blue Wool Standard was exhibited
by alkanet dyed sample with a combination of pre-
mordanting potassium dichromate; post-mordanting
ferric chloride; and post-treated Albafix WFF,
Dicrylan, UV-SUN and Rayosan.
Shahnaz Parveen Khattak et al., J.Chem.Soc.Pak., Vol. 37, No. 05, 2015 906
Table-2: Colour fastness properties of alkanet dyed cotton fabric samples using various auxiliaries.
shade became darker than original during testing.
Fig. 2: Cumulative colour fastness of cotton dyed with various dye formulations of alkanet.
Analysis of Cumulative Colour Fastness: T-Test
Cumulative colour fastness (wash, crock and
light fastness) of cotton samples dyed with alkanet
root extracts with the help of various dyeing
auxiliaries has been displayed in Fig-2. A paired-
sample t-test showed significant difference in the
scores (rating) of pre and post-treatments of the
dyeing auxiliaries. These results suggest that post-
treatment procedure was a better option. Significant
difference was found between the fastness of control
and pre-treated samples as well as between the
control and post-treated fabric samples by applying t-
test. Mordants have played their useful role in
improving the light fastness properties of the cotton
samples with natural dye. In an earlier work [17] it
Wash fastness
(Grey-scale)
Crocking fastness (Grey-
scale)
Type of Auxiliary Method change in
shade
staining on
fabric
dry
rubbing
wet
rubbing
Light Fastness (Blue
Wool standard)
Pre-mordanting 3-4 4-5 4 3 4
Al2(SO4)3Post-mordanting 4 4 4-5 3 4
Pre-mordanting 3-4 4 3-4 2-3 4
CuSO4Post-mordanting 2-3* 4-5 4-5 2-3 4
Pre-mordanting 4 4-5 2 3 4
FeCl3Post-mordanting 3-4 3 4-5 4-5 5
Pre-mordanting 3 4-5 3 3 5
K2Cr2O7Post-mordanting 4 4 4-5 3 4
Pre-mordanting 3 4 3-4 2-3 4
KAl(SO4)2·12H2OPost-mordanting 2* 3-4 4 3-4 4
Pre cationizing 3 3 4 4-5 4
Albafix WFF Post cationizing 3 4-5 4 3 5
Pre finishing 3 4 4 3 4
Dicrylan Post finishing 4 2-3 3-4 4 5
Pre-treatment 3 4 3-4 2-3 4
UV-SUN Post-treatment 3 4 3-4 2-3 5
Pre-treatment 3-4 4 4-5 3-4 4
Rayosan C Post-treatment 2-3 4 4-5 3 5
Pre-treatment 3 4 4-5 3 4
Fixapret CPF Post-treatme nt 3 4-5 4 3 5
Pre-treatment 3 4 4-5 3 4
Fixapret F-ECO Post-treatme nt 3 4 4-5 3 5
Pre-treatment 3 3-4 4-5 3-4 4
Knittex RCT Post-treatme nt 3 4-5 4-5 3 4
Control sample Untreated 2-3 4 4-5 3-4 3
Shahnaz Parveen Khattak et al., J.Chem.Soc.Pak., Vol. 37, No. 05, 2015 907
was reported that dyed fabrics without metal mordant
had poor resistance to the UV rays. Furthermore, for
improving colourfastness properties from poor to
good, Iron as pre and post mordant with 4 % solution
has also been suggested in one study [18].
Colour Properties of Alkanet Dyed Cotton Fabric
The data related to the colour yield or
lightness (L*) of cotton samples dyed with alkanet
(Table-3), ranged from 46.59 to 59.74. Greater colour
yield was found in the sample which was pre-
mordanted with ferric chloride. The values of chroma
(C*) ranged from 2.06 to 8.47. Maximum K/S value
(7.94) among this group was registered by post-
mordanting of CuSO4. Zarkogianni et al. [1] studied
the colour and fastness of natural dyes on cotton and
wool and found the process of mordanting as playing
significant role in increasing K/S for cotton samples.
In case of un-mordanted cotton samples they have
reported a value of 1.5 from Alkana (Alkanna
tinctoria).
Employing similar natural dye and
mordant, the comparatively higher values of K/S in
the present study (1.92) clearly indicate that dyeing
procedure was the only factor responsible for this
greater colour yield. As pad-steam dyeing procedure
was adopted in the current study, which boosted the
dye uptake and resulted in greater colour yield (K/S).
It is very important not only to select proper
mordants but the adoption of suitable dyeing
procedure is also a crucial step in optimizing the
fastness properties of natural dyes.
The present findings also support the earlier
postulates [9] which mentioned that both natural
dyeing and mordant dyeing can coexist if padding
technologies are utilized for natural dyes which will
particularly be advantageous for those products of
dyeing which have low affinity. The current results
confirm the earlier opinion of Mughal et al. [19] who
stated that cationization before dyeing can prove
more beneficial method for improving the affinity of
dye by the fibre.
Tensile Strength of Cotton Dyed with Alkanet
Most of the dyeing formulas in respect of
natural extracts of Alkanna tinctoria extracts lowered
the tensile strength of dyed cotton samples. However,
an increase in strength was also noticed from some of
the dye formulas. The most prominent among them
were 16 and 12 percent increase from the post-
mordanting of potassium dichromate and post-
treatment of UV- SUN, respectively (Fig- 3).
Maximum decrease in strength of 28 percent was
demonstrated by pre-mordanting of potassium
dichromate. Loss in strength of 25 percent occurred
due to the treatment of pre-mordanting ferric
chloride.
Fig. 3: Effect of various dyeing auxiliaries on the tensile strength of cotton samples dyed with root extracts of
alkanet.
Shahnaz Parveen Khattak et al., J.Chem.Soc.Pak., Vol. 37, No. 05, 2015 908
Table-3: Colour coordinate values (properties) of alkanet dyed cotton samples using various auxiliaries.
Colour properties
Type of auxiliary Method L* a* b* C* hoK/S
Pre-mordanting 54.06 0.04 5.13 5.13 89.56 2.83
Al2(SO4)3Post-mordanting 50.61 0.23 7.20 7.21 88.16 1.28
Pre-mordanting 46.59 2.48 12.02 12.27 78.33 3.92
CuSO4Post-mordanting 51.12 -1.14 8.39 8.47 97.75 7.94
Pre-mordanting 49.31 -0.43 3.00 3.03 98.14 7.80
FeCl3Post-mordanting 59.74 1.85 5.25 5.56 70.58 5.18
Pre-mordanting 59.69 -2.89 12.78 13.10 102.73 4.49
K2Cr2O7Post-mordanting 58.19 2.43 12.71 12.94 79.17 2.30
Pre-mordanting 57.94 -1.81 4.26 4.63 113.02 3.26
KAl(SO4)2·12H2OPost-mordanting 59.39 1.95 5.62 5.95 70.84 1.80
Pre cationizing 45.90 1.40 5.10 5.30 75.00 4.46
Albafix WFF Post cationizing 59.30 -0.20 2.40 2.40 94.00 1.28
Pre finishing 56.50 -0.10 3.70 3.70 92.10 3.49
Dicrylan Post finishing 57.90 -0.90 1.20 1.80 118.90 3.36
Pre-treatment 56.20 -0.50 2.10 2.20 103.90 20.6
UV –SUN Post-treatme nt 54.10 -0.30 2.80 2.80 95.80 2.42
Pre-treatment 58.80 -0.40 1.30 1.40 105.80 1.27
Rayosan C Post-treatment 59.90 0.70 1.80 2.00 70.00 1.38
Pre-treatment 58.22 0.02 3.24 3.24 89.60 1.82
Fixapret CPF Post-treatment 58.30 -0.86 1.85 2.04 114.99 1.61
Pre-treatment 58.78 -0.32 2.67 26.9 96.90 1.74
Fixapret F-ECO Post-treatment 58.93 -0.72 1.93 2.06 110.56 1.24
Pre-treatment 57.94 0.40 4.30 4.32 84.63 2.04
Knittex RCT Post-treatment 59.75 -0.54 1.25 1.64 109.05 1.44
Control sample Untreated 58.77 0.41 4.32 4.34 84.55 1.92
Paired samples t- test between pre-treated
and post-treated samples revealed significant result at
5% level of significance. Mean strength value due to
post-treatments was higher than the pre-treatments.
From the significance testing (t-test) of the tensile
strength of alkanet dyed cotton fabric, the results
showed significant difference between the strength of
control and pre-treated samples. While the difference
between the control and post-treated fabric samples
were insignificant.
Conclusion
If cotton is to be dyed in any shade of green,
a solvent extracted dye from alkanet root should be
applied through pad-steam dyeing procedure. A
mordant copper sulphate has been successful in
acquiring better fastness to wash, light, rub (dry
only); colour coordinates such as chroma, hue and
colour strength; soft, smooth and leveled dyed fabric
as well as maintained/improved tensile strength, with
this dye through post-mordanting procedures. The
use of potassium dichromate is not recommended for
the dyeing of cotton with alkanet as it has not only
affected the shade of the dyed sample but its pre-
mordanting has severely damaged the fabric in terms
of its tensile strength. Cationization of cotton with
quaternary ammonium compound has been capable
of yielding good colour strength and offering
potential for environmental friendly dyeing
operation. Reactive UV absorber based on
oxalanilide (UV-SUN) and heterocyclic compound as
UV absorber (Rayosan C) should be used as post-
padding with alkanet dye on cotton. Similarly, Soft
polyurethane emulsion (Dicrylan) proved useful as
post-treatment for improving light and wash fastness
as well as maintaining the tensile strength of cotton
dyed with alkanet root extracts. Crosslinkers are not
required to be applied with alkanet dye on cotton if
greater K/S value of the dyed is article required.
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... Effect of dyeing on fastness properties According to [7] who studied alkanet (Alkanna tinctoria) roots to apply padsteam dyeing to cotton fabric with Aluminum sulfate, copper sulfate, ferric chloride, potassium dichromate, and hydrated potassium aluminum sulfate. CuSO4 post-mordanting resulted in improved wash, light, and crocking fastness. ...
... Terminalia arjuna was chosen for further testing of anti-microbial properties on dyed fabric based on ratings. The findings were supported byKhattak et al. (2015) ...
Article
Present investigation is based on BACO fabric dyed with three selected natural dyes extracted from Terminalia arjuna, Rubia cordifolia and Alkanna tinctoria root. Optimal results were accomplished when dyeing at 80 °C for 90 min. The dyeing was subsequently conducted using pre-mordanting method, the mordanting produced a variety of color shades. The color fastness to washing and sunlight was found good to excellent with Terminalia arjuna dye. BACO fabric dyed with Terminalia arjuna showed very good to excellent anti-microbial properties.
... Juglans dyes gave a pinkish colour on non-mordanted wool but use of iron sulphate and stannous chloride mordant gave red and yellow colours, respectively [197]. Alkanet raw extract gave a greenish colour on cotton but a greyish and brownish colour when the same substrate was post-mordanted with CuSO 4 and alum respectively [193]. Angelini et al. [66] also reported a red colour on cotton, a rose/pink colour with silk and a red/rose colour with wool yarns when R. tinctorum anthraquinonone dye extract was used with alum mordant. ...
... Other surface treatment methods, including UV-irradiation [204], oxygen plasma treatment [205], enzyme pretreatment [206] and biomimetic procedures [207] have been used mostly to improve substantivity, dye strength, dye uptake and colour fastness to washing, rubbing and light. However, the surface modification methods are complex and give inferior results compared to mordanting [193]. ...
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Synthetic dyes are by far the most widely applied colourants in industry. However, environmental and sustainability considerations have led to an increasing efforts to substitute them with safer and more sustainable equivalents. One promising class of alternatives is the natural quinones; these are class of cyclic organic compounds characterized by a saturated (C6) ring that contains two oxygen atoms that are bonded to carbonyls and have sufficient conjugation to show color. Therefore, this study looks at the potential of isolating and applying quinone dye molecules from a sustainable source as a possible replacement for synthetic dyes. It presents an in-depth description of the three main classes of quinoid compounds in terms of their structure, occurrence biogenesis and toxicology. Extraction and purification strategies, as well as analytical methods, are then discussed. Finally, current dyeing applications are summarised. The literature review shows that natural quinone dye compounds are ubiquitous, albeit in moderate quantities, but all have a possibility of enhanced production. They also display better dyeability, stability, brightness and fastness compared to other alternative natural dyes, such as anthocyanins and carotenoids. Furthermore, they are safer for the environment than are many synthetic counterparts. Their extraction, purification and analysis are simple and fast, making them potential substitutes for their synthetic equivalents. Graphic Abstract
... For the preparation of fabric for dyeing a reported method was followed. 56 Scouring of the fabric was done by washing the fabric with sodium carbonate and detergent solution for an hour. The bleaching was performed at pH 10-10.5, temperature 80°C-90°C for 1 h using 10 g/l hydrogen peroxide (H 2 O 2 ), and 2 g/l NaOH as a bleaching agent. ...
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In this study, a green method was employed for dyeing silk and cotton fabrics using extracts from Beta vulgaris peels as a colorant, pomegranate rind as a bio-mordant, and microwave-assisted extraction as a green extraction technique. The dyeing process was optimized employing response surface methodology and characterization of the dyed fabric was conducted using FTIR, SEM, color strength, and fastness properties. The optimized conditions for dyeing were a solvent-to-extract ratio of 10 ml/g, temperature 70°C, and pH 6. The values of K/S calculated under optimal conditions were 2.565 for cotton fabric and 3.928 for silk fabric, with good fastness properties ranging from 4-5. Better fastness properties were obtained at low pH and a high solvent-to-solid ratio. FTIR confirmed the different functional groups including prominent peaks appearing at 1600–1700, 1546, and 1200–1300 cm⁻¹ for Amide-I, amide-II, and amide-III functional groups in silk and 3271–3332 cm⁻¹ (OH stretching), 2851–2915 cm⁻¹ (C–H stretching) for cotton fabric. SEM analysis showed the characteristics of the fabric surface before and after the adsorption of the dye components. The current study revealed selected bio-waste as a new and cheaper source of coloring material. Natural dye obtained from different waste materials can be exploited as a dyeing tool for different fabrics on an industrial scale, providing a viable green alternative to hazardous synthetic colorants.
... The corresponding extensions at the warp and weft positions are 5.44 % and 12.08 %, respectively. It is also discovered that a specimen of undyed jute packaging fabric requires more force to break than a specimen of de-sized and dyed jute packaging fabric.The tensile strength of dyed cotton samples is lowered by the majority of dyeing formulations that contain natural extracts of Albizia procera sawdust and Alkanna tinctoria [21,30]. But when CuSO4 is utilized as the mordant for dying cotton fabric with the extracted Albizia procera sawdust [21], an increase in strength was also noted for certain of the dye recipes. ...
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Eco-friendly dyeing of jute packaging fabrics was evaluated using aqueous extraction of factory tea (Camellia sinensis) wastes. Jute and factory tea wastes are available in Bangladesh and jute bags are used for packaging of various exportable agricultural commodities. The extract of factory tea waste (FTW) is dark coffee colored and it was characterized by attenuated total reflection-fourier transform infrared (ATR-FTIR) and microbial analysis. Nontoxic, non-allergic and eco-friendly natural dyeing process of jute packaging fabrics using extract of FTW were developed and optimized. Metal mordants 10 % on the weight of fabric was used to get the fastness properties of dyed jute fabric. The methods of application of mordants were pre-mordanting, simultaneous or meta-mordanting and post-mordanting. The color fastness and tensile properties were measured for all jute packaging fabrics and it is found that the dyed jute packaging fabrics showed a slight decrease in tensile breaking force (N) than undyed jute packaging fabric. The highest color fastness obtained with the meta mordanting method with ferrous sulfate mordant in a shade of dark coffee. The results of the color fastness for light and washing showed an excellent value of grade 4–5.
... Berberis vulgaris -Berberine, Natural Yellow 18, C.I. 75160, C 20 H 18 NO 4 + Yellow (Deveoglu et al., 2020;Haji, 2013;Karadag, 2007;Kasiri and Safapour, 2014;Xia and Luo, 2015) Madder root Rubia tinctorum -Alizarin, C.I. 75330, 1,2-dihydroxyanthraquinone, -Purpurine, C.I. 75410 1,2,4-trihydroxyantraquinone -Rubiadine, C.I. 75350, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methyl anthraquinone Red orangered (Bechtold, 2009a;Mandal and Venkatramani, 2023;Ö nal, 1996;Uddin et al., 2022) Alkanet root Alkanna tinctoria -Alkannin, Natural Red 20, CI. 75530, 5,8-Dihydroxy-2-[(1S)-1-hydroxy-4-methyl pent-3-en-1-yl]naphthalene-1,4dion Red Blue Purple (Cañamares et al., 2022;Jose et al., 2017;Khattak et al., 2015;Karadag, 2007) After finishing the dyeing process, the dyed fabrics were taken out of the bath and wrung out and a new, undyed fabric was put into the remaining waste bath. Here, natural dye and mordant were not added to the remaining bath. ...
... Table 7.1 summarizes the various natural colorants extracted from plants. Acacia catechu Cutch Heartwood Red [17] Alkanna tinctoria Dyer' salkanet Root Purple [18] Allium cepa Onion Skin Orange [16] Berberis vulgaris Barberry Root and bark Yellowish [19] Butea monosperma Flame of Flower Yellowish [20] Bixa orellana Annato Seeds Orange [21] Curcuma longa Turmeric Rhizome Yellow [22] Eucalyptus camaldulensis ...
... Alkanet extract can act as an indicator due to its different colors in various pH values [28]. The pH of the extracts became more acidic in case of alum (pH 3.8), NiSO 4 (pH 4.1), and copper (pH 4.4) mordants, respectively. ...
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Natural colorants are used in many different areas such as textiles, cosmetics, leather, and medicine. The purpose of this study is to identify a natural colorant combination that can be an alternative to Hematoxylin-eosin dye using plant sources. For this, roselle (Hibiscus sabdariffa) and alkanet (Alkanna tinctoria) plants were used. The Hematoxylin-Eosin (H&E) staining procedure, most used for staining steps, was taken as standard. In this procedure, extracts of Hibiscus sabdariffa (Hs) in distilled water instead of eosin, and Alkanna tinctoria (At) in ethyl alcohol instead of hematoxylin were used. Seven different experimental sets were created by changing the position of the dyes in the H&E procedure and adding metal salts K Al (SO4)2 .12 H2O, CuSO4 .5H2O. One healthy rat brain tissue preparate was immersed in each of the seven different experimental sets. Another preparate of the same brain tissue was stained with H&E stain for positive control purposes. Preparate not staining was used as negative control. After the staining, images were taken in the light microscope of the tissues of eight preparates which were closed with the entellan. It was observed that the rat brain tissue nucleus and cytoplasm were stained in different colors, especially in the step using copper sulfate and alum. Because plants using in staining have different chemical structures like terpenoids, flavonoids, phenolics.
... Alkanet extract can act as an indicator due to its different colors in various pH values [28]. The pH of the extracts became more acidic in case of alum (pH 3.8), NiSO 4 (pH 4.1), and copper (pH 4.4) mordants, respectively. ...
Article
Staining of tissue is a significant process in histotechnology and staining techniques are used in the examination and diagnosis of diseases. The increase of international awareness for the environment, ecology, and health directed people to reduce toxic effluents and stop usage of dangerous chemical dyes. The present trend throughout the world is shifting towards to use of natural products over their synthetic alternatives. Therefore, in this study, the dyeing ability of alkanet plant on the cells of unstained sections taken from Wistar rat liver was investigated. The extract of Alkanna tinctoria contain naphthaquinone group of dyestuff. Chemical characterization of A. tinctoria extract was performed with HPLC-TOF/MS and UV spectra analysis, respectively. Different metal salts were used in the staining processes in order to obtain different colors. In the staining of without adding mordant (metal salt) to the extract, pale brown staining was obtained in the cytoplasm. Light pink color was obtained with the addition of CuSO4 mordant. Dark pink-red color was achieved by adding alum, and also NiSO4 was added for light purple staining. The staining of cytoplasm of different cells in liver tissue was achieved successfully with the extract of A. tinctoria and different colors were obtained using various mordants.
... The dyeing of enzymatically pretreated polyamide, by trypsin or pepsin, with walnut bark did not indicate any improvement compared to an untreated dyed sample (Bahtiyari and Benli, 2016). Khattak et al. (2015) applied different synthetic additives to modify the cotton's surface properties (cationizing agents, crosslinkers, and UV absorbers). The quaternary ammonium compound yielded better color strength, UV absorbers (UV-SUN and Rayosan C) and finishing agents (Dicrylan) proved to be more effective during the post-mordanting procedure. ...
Article
Fruit and vegetables contain molecules that have particular colors, which can potentially be an environmentally attractive substitute for their synthetic counterparts in (non-)food applications. The most sustainable source for such natural colorants would be by the valorization of by-products from the fruit and vegetable industries, but qualitative and quantitative characteristics of food by-products for this purpose remain scarce. Natural dyes also show mediocre stability and affinity toward textile fibers, which questions their potential feasibility for application and level of sustainability to overcome these issues. This review describes three dye classes (i.e., anthocyanins, quinones, and carotenoids) along with their occurrence, mass, and concentration in by-products that are generated from agricultural losses as well as the fruit and vegetable processing industries. To tackle the shortcomings of natural dyes on fibers, several application techniques were collected from the literature. A discussion on techno-economic potential and environmental sustainability is included. The latter is done by including a life cycle assessment (LCA) to investigate the environmental impact of extracting anthocyanins, quinones, and carotenoids from fruit and vegetable processing by-products and their subsequent application to the dyeing process. The mapping of by-products for each natural dye class illustrates the vast availability of agro-food residues (>0.1 Mt annually in the EU-28) with a natural dye content of up to 56 kg/t DW for anthocyanins, 18 kg/t DW for quinones, and 593 kg/t DW for carotenoids. Metallic mordants are mostly favored for improving the fixation of natural dyes but entail potential environmental issues. Greener approaches, such as biomordants and enzymes, still show room for improvement, chemical modification methods might also guarantee dye fixation, though questionable in environmental sustainability. The different valorization scenarios of anthocyanins, quinones, and carotenoids from food waste, analyzed with LCA, showed the environmental competitiveness of these natural dyes, applied as a crude extract, compared to synthetic dyes. The valorization routes design shows that agricultural losses and food processing waste streams are adequate sources of natural dyes, especially to be applied in niche scale applications.
Article
Bu çalışmada kullanılan Havacıva otu doğal bitkilerden biri olup, Alkanna cinsine ait olup Boraginaceae familyasına bağlıdır. Alkanna strigosa Boiss. & Hohen.bitkisi bölgede Havaco veya Havaciva otu olarak bilinmektedir. Bu çalışmada, 2017 yılında Türkiye için yeni kayıt olarak belirlenen Alkanna strigosa bitkisinin kökünden elde edilen doğal boyalar verilmiştir. Kurutulmuş ve yaş Havaciva otu kullanılarak yapılan araştırmada toplam 9 adet boyama yapılmıştır. Mordansız yaptığımız boyama işleminde füme rengi elde edilmiştir. Mordanlama yöntemi ile kahverengi, açık kahverengi, koyu kahverengi, yeşil, açık yeşil, sütlü kahve ve açık toprak renkleri elde edilmiştir. Bu çalışma ile doğal boyamacılığın bölgede tekrar canlanması ve gelecek kuşaklara aktarılması amaçlanmıştır. Bu araştırma, bölgede ilk olması açısından önem arz etmektedir.
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A new approach was investigated for appraising the fastness properties while maintaining/ upgrading the tensile strength of 100% cotton, light weight fabric samples, dyed with natural colourant of Marigold flower (Tagetes erecta). Various dyeing formulas planned with the aid of different dyeing auxiliaries utilized as mordants, cross linkers, finishing agents and UV absorbers were applied by pad-steam (two-bath-two-stage) dyeing procedure. All the recipes were exercised both as pre and post treatments. Pretty yellow fabric samples resulted from the experiments having better colour fastness, enviable K/S value and adequate tensile strength. Some of the mordants (such as FeCl3 and Al2(SO4)3) produced samples of darker shades, entirely different from the yellow colour. The presence of CuSO4 in the dyeing recipe produced sample with bright yellow shade. This mordant was excelled by all other dyeing auxiliaries in enhancing not only the colourfastness but also presenting greater colour strength (K/S value). Post treatment of a reactive UV absorber based on oxalinilide (UV-SUN) and fibre-reactive UV absorber Rayosan C (heterocyclic compound) imparted very good lightfastness (6 Blue Wool Standard). Crosslinking agent Fixapret CPF, methylolation product based on glyoxalmonourein resulted in remarkable improvement in crocking and light fastness of cotton. Fixative Albafix WFF (quaternary ammonium compound) was also found effective in acquiring very good rub fast cotton samples.
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Increasing awareness about safe products in textiles has developed the worldwide choice in natural colour based textiles. For the present study, barks of Acacia nilotica (Kikar) has been selected as source of natural flavone dye (querecetin). Both cotton fabrics and dye powder were exposed to UV radiations for 30, 45, 60, 90 and 120 min. Later on the dye was extracted using irradiated (RP) and un-irradiated dye powder (NRP) followed by dyeing of irradiated (RC) and un-irradiated fabric (NRC). Different dyeing variables such as temperature, time, pH, liquor concentration (M:L) and electrolyte concentration were optimized and dyeing was performed at these optimum coniditions. To improve colour strength and colour fastness properties different concentrations of mordants such as Cu (copper sulphate), Al (aluminum sulphate), Fe (iron sulphate) and tannic acid were employed. ISO standard methods were employed to determine the colour fastness to light, washing and rubbing to observe the effect of UV radiation on these fastness properties. The fabrics investigated in CIE Lab system using spectraflash showed that exposure for 90 min modifies the surface of fabric and dyeing for 50 min at 55 degrees C, using 8 g/100 mL of salt using dye bath of pH 6 provides the best colour strength. It is also found that iron is the best mordant among other used that improves the colour fastness properties from moderate to good.
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Wool and silk fabrics were dyed using the water extract obtained from eucalyptus leaves; essentially higher utilization of dyestuffs and shortening of the dyeing procedure was achieved as a result of the padding dyeing principle followed prior to drying. Simultaneous mordanting by FeSO4 shows brown-grey color of different shades depending on the dye concentration. The dye exploitation of wool is higher than that of silk, and in both cases common “exhaustion” methods are better than “long baths.” The ecological and economical considerations of dyeing by natural dyestuffs are discussed.
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Cationisation of cotton is emerging as an effective tool that may help to solve the environmental problems associated with the dyeing of cotton with reactive dyes. The efficiency of the cationising agent CA200 has been investigated and was found to be more effective when compared with the usual method for reactive dyeing of cotton. Pretreatment of the cotton fabric with the cationising agent increases the rate of dyeing compared with the existing method of reactive dyeing. The colour yields, in terms of the Kubelka–Munk values as a function of the amount of dye fixed, showed that cationisation enhances the colour strength. It also improves the washing fastness, rubbing fastness and depth of shade. The positive environmental impact of this cationisation process is significant and the cationised cotton shows a similar fabric quality as with the normal dyeing process
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A natural dye extracted from eucalyptus leaves was applied to a silk fabric using two padding techniques, namely the pad‐batch and pad‐dry techniques, under different conditions. It was observed that with an increase in the dye concentration, the ultraviolet (UV) protection factor (UPF) values ranged between good and excellent for the silk fabric. In addition, a darker colour, such as that provided by a FeSO4 mordant, gave better protection because of higher UV absorption. A silk fabric dyed in a solution containing the eucalyptus leaf extract showed a shade of pale yellowish‐brown. The exception was when the fabric was dyed with the FeSO4 mordant, resulting in a shade of dark greyish‐brown. The colour fastness to washing and rubbing of the silk fabrics treated with the mordant after dyeing was investigated and the results showed good fastness, whereas colour fastness to light was at a fair level. The results confirmed that natural dyes from eucalyptus leaf extract with metal mordants have potential applications in fabric dyeing and in producing UV‐protective silk fabrics.
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The chemistry and technology of reactive dyes and their application to cellulose fibres and fabrics are described and discussed; 78 references are cited.
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Coloration of textiles, traditionally achieved using natural dyes, commonly employs synthetic dyes at the industrial level. A revival of commercial interest in natural dyes has opened several research avenues. This paper investigates the application by padding of cotton fabric with 10 g/l of two natural dyes derived from the Acacia plant family. Three mordanting techniques were studied; of which post-mordanting produced the most even shade. Among the two mordants investigated, the use of copper sulfate resulted in a level beige shade at 15 g/l concentration while ferrous sulfate performed best at 5 g/l yielding a yellow-grey shade. An optimum process-sequence for the copper sulfate mordant was “pad (dye)→dry→steam followed by pad (mordant)→steam→dry”, and for ferrous sulfte it was “pad (dye)→steam→dry followed by pad (mordant)→steam→dry”. Typically a change in mordant resulted in a different shade with the same dye. The study concluded that padding is a readily adaptable process for the dyeing of cotton using natural dyes and acceptable fastness in shades can be obtained.
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A description of those compounds that can be used as dyes on natural fibers as wool, silk, cotton, and linen. Keywords (Audience): General Public
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Cotton and wool fabrics were dyed with nine natural dyes obtained by aqueous extraction of the original plants/insect in an attempt to reconstruct traditional textile dyeing recipes, to optimise the methodology at all stages, i.e. extraction, mordanting and dyeing, and to standardise it. Cochineal, madder, alkanna, henna, brazilwood, red sandalwood, safflower, indigo and logwood were used for the dyeings, which were carried out directly and after mordanting of the textile material. A variety of mordants, namely, aluminium potassium sulphate, potassium dichromate, copper sulphate, zinc chloride, iron(iii) chloride, iron(ii) sulphate and tin chloride, is anticipated to meet both early and recent requirements and options. The dyeings were evaluated through colour measurements and standard wash, light and rub fastness tests. Generally, the mordanting process known for many centuries and connected with the textile dyeing resulted in an improvement in dye absorption and fastness properties mainly for the cotton samples, as is concluded from the tests and measurement assessments.