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Enzyme-based hair removal: An alternative choice or Myth?
Abstract
Although the loss of scalp hair is distressing and many medical treatments focus on its restoration, the removal of body hair has been adopted since ancient times. Beauty standards, which r eflect the culture of each society, have been presenting the depilated body as absolutely desirable. Through the ages various methods of hair removal have been used depending on the requirements of the individuals. In recent years, Laser and Intense Pulse Light devices have been considered as the most promising solution for excess hair growth, without excluding the efficacy of other methods to induce satisfactory epilatory results. The enzyme-based hair removal method has received little recognition even though experimental and clinical data support its efficacy to provide long term or even permanent epilation. The present review presents these data and examines the likelihood of considering the aforementioned method as ideal.
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- A method of epilation using reverse micelles containing the proteolytic enzyme, trypsin, is described based on previous experimental findings on degenerative effects of proteolytic enzymes on hair follicles and follicle stem cells of guinea pigs and mice. The method involves rubbing of the preparation on wax epilated skin and leads to removal of hair from various skin regions, such as face, shoulders, arms and legs. The many advantages of this method renders it the method of choice for hair removal in cosmetology.
- Global environmental regulations are changing the leather industry. Conventional unhairing contributes most of the pollution in the industry, such as hydrogen sulfide and lime. Ever-increasing attention to the environmental impact of the leather industry has necessitated the development of enzymatic unhairing as a potent alternative to polluting chemicals. Enzymes are gaining increasing importance in the unhairing process, eliminating the need for sodium sulfide. This review discusses the enzymatic unhairing used in leather processing and introduces more information about enzymatic unhairing. This paper also summarises progress of enzymatic unhairing and looks ahead at its application prospect and development direction.
- The leather industry has been facing new challenges including the need to improve and optimize processes to achieve the required quality in their final articles and meet the requirements of environmental legislation. The enzymatic treatment of leather is a promising technology. Enzymes are organic substances, generally proteins, known as biocatalysts for multiplex che mical reactions. They have been explored commercially in the detergent, food, pharmaceutical, diagnostic, fine chemical and other industries. Commonly, the most promising enzyme sources are microorganisms. Several studies have reported enzyme use in different stages of leather production, describing a decrease in the use of chemicals for the depilation and liming steps, and some have also reported the complete replacement of chemicals with enzymes. Some authors use enzymes to increase the exhaustion of dyes in dye baths and to increase the effectiveness of tanning in the tanning step. The identification of a new enzyme is a long process, requiring screening for specific criteria, isolation and selection of new bacteria, and the investigation of the nutrients and conditions necessary for growth and enzyme production by the selected microorganism. Finally, issues such as pH, temperature and product inhibition of the enzyme during its application in the processing of skins/hides should be studied.
- The enzymatic treatment of hides in tannery processes is a promising technology. However, the reaction kinetics of commercial enzymes available to the leather industry are not fully understood and their activities have been mainly determined with model proteins such as casein as substrate, which are not of direct relevance for cattle hides. Therefore, it is important to determine their activities on collagen and keratin, the main proteins of skin, in order to use these enzymes in leather processing. This work describes the study of five proteases, used commercially in tanneries, to assess their ability to act upon collagen and keratin and to determine their unhairing. Results showed that all commercial enzymes tested had more activity on collagen than on keratin. Unhairing was also tested and four out of the five enzymes tested showed some unhairing activity. Optima of the temperature and pH of the enzymes were very similar for all five enzymes, with maximal activities around 55ºC and pH 9 to 12, respectively.
- BACKGROUND: Unwanted hair growth is a common aesthetic problem. Laser hair removal has emerged as a leading treatment option for long-term depilation. OBJECTIVES: To extensively review the literature on laser hair removal pertaining to its theoretical basis, current laser and light-based devices, and their complications. Special treatment recommendations for darker skin types were considered. MATERIALS AND METHODS: A comprehensive literature search related to the long-pulse alexandrite (755 nm), long-pulse diode (810 nm), long-pulse neodymium-doped yttrium aluminum garnet (Nd:YAG; 1,064 nm), and intense pulsed light (IPL) system, as well as newer home-use devices, was conducted. RESULTS: The literature supports the use of the alexandrite, diode, Nd:YAG and IPL devices for long-term hair removal. Because of its longer wavelength, the Nd:YAG is the best laser system to use for pigmented skin. Further research is needed regarding the safety and efficacy of home-use devices. CONCLUSION: Current in-office laser hair removal devices effectively provide a durable solution for unwanted hair removal.
- Laser (or light) hair removal, also referred to as photoepilation, is the most commonly used laser or light-based cosmetic medical procedure. The extended theory of selective photothermolysis is the basic principle for destruction of hair follicles using light. In this type of laser application the chromophore is follicular melanin. Several types of lasers and light sources have been effective for hair reduction, including the ruby, alexandrite, diode, and neodymium:yttrium-aluminum-garnet lasers and broadband, intense pulsed light sources. This article provides a broad overview of how hair can be removed using light, with an emphasis on practical considerations.
- Women's body hair removal is highly normative across contemporary western cultures. Nevertheless, little is known about the production and maintenance of this norm. Drawing on qualitative survey data from 678 women in the UK, this study offers two explanations: First, hairlessness and hairiness are predominantly constructed as positive and negative alternatives, respectively. Consequently, the ‘options’ to depilate, or not, are unequally weighted. Second, should a woman fail to depilate, she is likely to be subject to interactional sanctions. These exact a social price for being hairy, and serve to ‘enforce’ the depilation norm. Depilation is, then, shown to be a matter not merely of personal preference, but of conforming to a social norm reflecting an imperative to ‘improve’ the body. Taking a feminist perspective, this study understands the depilation norm as an instance of the ‘policing’ of women's bodies within a narrow ideal of social acceptability.
- Although the nature of the noxious signal and the anatomical target in alopecia areas (AA) are still unknown, it has been assumed that CD4+ T lymphocytes surrounding and infiltrating the hair bulb might trigger the hair loss. As these T lymphocytes do not promote cytotoxic activity we hypothesize that AA is triggered by cytokines. Topical immunotherapy with diphenylcyclopropenone (DCP) is at present the most effective approach. If it is true that AA results from a distinct cytokine pattern, we can hypothesize that the beneficial effect of DCP should be mediated by locally secreted cytokines during the contact allergy. Using semiquantitative reverse transcription-polymerase chain reaction with RNA extracted from scalp biopsies from patients with AA before and after successful treatment with DCP, and from healthy controls we detected a T-cell response with increased steady state mRNA levels for interferon (IFN)-, interleukin (IL)-1, and IL-2 in untreated AA of the totalis type. After DCP treatment, the IFN- expression was reduced but still above the constitutive level found in controls, whereas mRNA expression of IL-2, IL-8, IL- 10, and tumor necrosis factor- was increased. Our results point towards cytokines involved in the pathogenesis in AA. A TH1 type cytokine pattern is present in untreated AA, and this is modified by cytokines secreted during DCP treatment. IL-10 has recently been described as an immunomodulator of the TH1 response and, therefore, we hypothesize that basal keratinocytes or lesional T cells secrete bioactive IL-10 after DCP application, resulting in an inhibitory effect on lesional T lymphocytes. This hypothesis would explain the effectiveness of DCP and implies the theoretical possibility of a response to topical or intralesional application of recombinant IL-10.Keywords: alopecia areata, diphenylcyclopropenone
- Although women's total removal of their pubic hair has been described as a "new norm," little is known about the pubic hair removal patterns of sexually active women in the United States. The purpose of this study was to assess pubic hair removal behavior among women in the United States and to examine the extent to which pubic hair removal methods are related to demographic, relational, and sexual characteristics, including female sexual function. A total of 2,451 women ages 18 to 68years completed a cross-sectional Internet-based survey. Demographic items (e.g., age, education, sexual relationship status, sexual orientation), cunnilingus in the past 4weeks, having looked closely at or examined their genitals in the past 4weeks, extent and method of pubic hair removal over the past 4weeks, the Female Genital Self-Image Scale (FGSIS) and the Female Sexual Function Index (FSFI). Women reported a diverse range of pubic hair-grooming practices. Women's total removal of their pubic hair was associated with younger age, sexual orientation, sexual relationship status, having received cunnilingus in the past 4weeks, and higher scores on the FGSIS and FSFI (with the exception of the orgasm subscale). Findings suggest that pubic hair styles are diverse and that it is more common than not for women to have at least some pubic hair on their genitals. In addition, total pubic hair removal was associated with younger age, being partnered (rather than single or married), having looked closely at one's own genitals in the previous month, cunnilingus in the past month, and more positive genital self-image and sexual function.
- Inconsistent with the view that hair follicle stem cells reside in the matrix area of the hair bulb, we found that label-retaining cells exist exclusively in the bulge area of the mouse hair follicle. The bulge consists of a subpopulation of outer root sheath cells located in the midportion of the follicle at the arrector pili muscle attachment site. Keratinocytes in the bulge area are relatively undifferentiated ultrastructurally. They are normally slow cycling, but can be stimulated to proliferate transiently by TPA. Located in a well-protected and nourished environment, these cells mark the lower end of the "permanent" portion of the follicle. Our findings, plus a reevaluation of the literature, suggest that follicular stem cells reside in the bulge region, instead of the lower bulb. This new view provides insights into hair cycle control and the possible involvement of hair follicle stem cells in skin carcinogenesis.
- Structural changes in the wool follicle during depilation with acetic acid, crystalline trypsin, and a commercial enzyme preparation, Pancrozyme C1A, are described. A number of the morphological changes produced by acetic acid and Pancrozyme C1A are similar. Both cause early separation of the epidermal and outer root sheath (ORS) structures from the underlying tissues, and the resistance to fibre withdrawal at this stage is due largely to the physical obstruction of the ORS material. In both cases the separated ORS assumes a tightly packed cylindrical form around the fibre and is gradually digested away until there is no longer any resistance to fibre removal. In both cases separation of the fibre ultimately occurs in the lower part of the prekeratinous zone just above the bulb.
- Electrolysis has been performed since 1875. Electrolysis satisfactorily removes hair from women with static hair growth, but women with hirsutism often require concomitant management of their hormonal problems. We have found the blend method to be the most effective modality for permanent hair removal. Attention must be given to proper electrolysis technique, including accurate needle insertion and appropriate intensities and duration. Scarring does not occur with properly performed electrolysis. Hair is not an electrical conductor and electronic tweezers do not result in permanent hair removal. Shaving 1 to 5 days before electrolysis greatly increases efficacy because it ensures that only growing anagen hairs are epilated. The recent availability of EMLA (eutectic mixture of local anesthetics) has been beneficial in reducing the sensations of electrolysis. The availability of prepackaged, presterilized, individual electrolysis needles has greatly reduced the need for more complicated sterilization procedures.
- We have examined the growth capacity of keratinocytes isolated from human scalp hair follicles. Like the keratinocytes of glabrous epidermis, most of the colony-forming cells are classified as holoclones or meroclones when analyzed in a clonal assay. Some of them have extensive growth potential, as they are able to undergo at least 130 doublings. Therefore, the hair follicle, like the epidermis, contains keratinocytes with the expected property of stem cells: an extensive proliferative capacity permitting the generation of a large amount of epithelium. We have also examined the distribution of clonogenic keratinocytes within the hair follicle. Several hundred colony-forming cells are concentrated at a region below the midpoint of the follicle and outside the hair bulb. This region lies deeper than the site of insertion of the arrector pili muscle, which corresponds with the position of the bulge when the latter can be identified. In contrast, few colony-forming cells are present in the hair bulb, where most of the mitotic activity is observed during the active growth phase of the follicle. Paraclones, which are present both in the midregion and in the bulb of hair follicles, are unlikely to be the transient amplifying cells expected from kinetic studies.
- The epidermis and its related appendages such as the hair follicle constitute the epithelial compartment of the skin. The exact location and distribution of the keratinocyte colony-forming cells within the epidermis or its appendages are unknown. We report that in the rat vibrissa, keratinocyte colony-forming cells are highly clustered in the bulge-containing region. Approximately 95% of the total colonies formed in culture from fractionated vibrissae were in this location and fewer than 4% were located in the matrix area of the follicle. Finer dissection of the bulge-containing region located the colony-forming cells in the small part containing the bulge itself. The segregation of keratinocyte colony-forming cells in the bulge confirms the hypothesis that the bulge is the reservoir of the stem cells responsible for the long-term growth of the hair follicle and perhaps of the epidermis as well.
- Programmed cell death is a controlled process that leads to the elimination of single cells via apoptosis. Programmed cell death is fundamental to development, morphogenesis, and homeostasis. Proteases play a major role in the death process. We have previously shown that a serine protease, secreted by a keratinocyte cell line, can induce apoptosis in numerous cell lines. Here we show that serine proteases can induce cell death in vivo as well. Using a synchronized hair growth mouse model, we show that topical trypsin treatment following depilation induces cell death at the follicular papilla. This results in delaying hair growth and pigmentation. We speculate that trypsin might affect a receptor-mediated signaling pathway that leads to follicular papilla cell death.
- The methods of hair removal vary between simple inexpensive means of home treatment (shaving, plucking, depilatories) to expensive and potentially time-consuming means used by paraprofessionals, nurses, and/or physicians (electrolysis, lasers, x-ray). The ways in which these different methods induce hair removal, the duration of such removal, and the nuances between devices within the same category of methods are discussed. (J Am Acad Dermatol 1999;40:143-55.) Learning objective: At the completion of this learning activity, participants should be cognizant of the different control mechanisms for hair growth and how the different means of hair removal affect these. Readers will also become familiar with the different types of electrolysis and lasers currently used for hair removal and the advantages and disadvantages of each.
- The tremendous demand for removal of unwanted hair has led to the development of a wide range of noninvasive, user-friendly laser and light source systems; however, despite considerable advances in this field, these devices still have the potential to cause injury when used improperly. It is important to follow precise treatment guidelines in order to attain optimal results. This article gives an overview of the currently available lasers and light sources. It focuses on the practical aspect of laser hair removal by discussing patient selection, safety precautions, techniques using the different systems, pre- and post-laser treatment care, proper treatment endpoints, expected outcome, and possible side-effects and complications.
- To study the effects of proteolytic enzymes on mice hair follicles, particularly on cells of the bulge area regarded as follicle stem cells. Previous application by iontophoresis of proteolytic enzymes on guinea pig skin resulted in degenerative effects on hair follicles and the hypothesis was proposed that some of the affected cells could be stem cells. To mark putative stem cells transgenic mice were produced carrying the lac-Z gene fused to the Upstream Regulatory Region (URR) of Human Papilloma Virus 11 (HPV11), as they express this gene specifically in the cells of the bulge area. Chymotrypsin and papain were applied on skin by iontophoresis, trypsin in the form of liposomes. Enzyme application, both by electrophoresis and as liposomes, led to intense degenerative effects of the hair follicle, such as detachment of the inner root sheath, cystic dilation of the hair shaft and presence of epithelial cells within the lumen. Some of these cells represent hair follicle stem cells expressing beta-galactosidase (beta-gal), having been detached from the bulge area as a result of enzyme treatment, implying impairment of their function.
- The effective catalytic properties of enzymes have already promoted their introduction into several industrial products and processes. Recent developments in biotechnology, particularly in areas such as protein engineering and directed evolution, have provided important tools for the efficient development of new enzymes. This has resulted in the development of enzymes with improved properties for established technical applications and in the production of new enzymes tailor-made for entirely new areas of application where enzymes have not previously been used.
- Unwanted facial hair is a common problem that is seldom discussed in the primary care setting. Although men occasionally request removal of unwanted facial hair, women most often seek help with this condition. Physicians generally neglect to address the problem if the patient does not first request help. The condition may be caused by androgen overproduction, increased sensitivity to circulating androgens, or other metabolic and endocrine disorders, and should be properly evaluated. Options for hair removal vary in efficacy, degree of discomfort, and cost. Clinical studies on the efficacy of many therapies are lacking. Short of surgical removal of the hair follicle, the only permanent treatment is electrolysis. However, the practice of electrolysis lacks standardization, and regulation of the procedure varies from state to state. Shaving, epilation, and depilation are the most commonly attempted initial options for facial hair removal. Although these methods are less expensive, they are only temporary. Laser hair removal, although better studied than most methods and more strictly regulated, has yet to be proved permanent in all patients. Eflornithine, a topical treatment, is simple to apply and has minimal side effects. By the time most patients consult a physician, they have tried several methods of hair removal. Family physicians can properly educate patients and recommend treatment for this common condition if they are armed with basic knowledge about the treatment options.
- While unwanted facial hair is clearly distressing for women, relatively little is known about its psychological impact. This study reports on the psychological and behavioral burden of facial hair in women with suspected polycystic ovary syndrome. Eighty-eight women (90% participation rate) completed a self-administered questionnaire concerning hair removal practices; the impact of facial hair on social and emotional domains; relationships and daily life; anxiety and depression (Hospital Anxiety and Depression Scale); self-esteem (Rosenberg Self-esteem Scale); and quality of life (WHOQOL-BREF). Women spent considerable time on the management of their facial hair (mean, 104 min/week). Two thirds (67%) reported continually checking in mirrors and 76% by touch. Forty percent felt uncomfortable in social situations. High levels of emotional distress and psychological morbidity were detected; 30% had levels of depression above the clinical cut off point, while 75% reported clinical levels of anxiety; 29% reported both. Although overall quality of life was good, scores were low in social and relationship domains--reflecting the impact of unwanted facial hair. Unwanted facial hair carries a high psychological burden for women and represents a significant intrusion into their daily lives. Psychological support is a neglected element of care for these women.
- Histological alterations in the skin and hair follicle of mice were evaluated as a result of the application of gel and cream formulas containing papain as a harmless treatment for hirsutism. Papain is a proteolytic enzyme and it has been used in pharmaceutical, cosmetic and nutrition areas. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the efficacy of a depilatory product, through histological analysis using light microscopy. Gel and cream formulas containing papain were developed and daily applied on the back of two groups of mice for 31 days. The depilatory effect of the gel formula applied on the first group was less evident. The second group treated with the cream formula presented an intensive depilatory effect; the morphometrical analysis showed dilation of about 55% of the hair follicle lumen and an increase of the thickness of epidermis. Papain cream had a significantly higher depilatory effect than the papain gel.
