No full-text available
To read the full-text of this research,
you can request a copy directly from the author.
Let the fit revolution begin
Abstract
Technological advances and new size data offer the possibility of solving the apparel fit problems which continue to plague many consumers, retailers and manufacturers. This article explores the roots of the industry's fit problems, as well as some innovative solutions that are currently available or soon to be commercialized. The special fit problems of the online apparel sector are also considered.
... Currently, United States apparel manufacturers are not using a standard system to size ready-to-wear clothing. Research presents evidence that current sizing systems within the apparel industry are inconsistent in more than one area (Ashdown, 1998;DesMarteau, 2000;Ennis, 2007;Kinley, 2003;Newcomb & Istook, 2004;Sieben & Chen-Yu, 1992;Simmons, Istook & Devarajan, 2004;Strait, 1992;Tamburrino, 1992aTamburrino, , 1992bTamburrino, , 1992cWhitford, 2005) and that fit is a leading factor for consumers when purchasing clothing (Ashdown & O'Connell, 2006;Alexander, Connell & Presley, 2005;LaBat, 1998;Schoefield & LaBat, 2005). Some of the reasons for the discrepancies within the current ready-to-wear sizing systems are that the sizing systems are based on anthropometric data that is over six decades old, and this promotes the lack of full range variation for the various sizes and body shapes which now exist among the American population (Simmons, Istook & Devarajan, 2004;U.S Department of Commerce, 1971;Workman, 1991). ...
... Research studies in this area over the years have identified several discrepancies within the U.S. apparel market (Ashdown, 1998;DesMarteau, 2000;Workman & Lentz, 2000). The American consumer is still facing inconsistencies within the ready-to-wear apparel industry. ...
... To add to it, the problems with sizing practices are not for the consumer to endure alone. Retailers and manufacturers also feel the crunch in terms of returned merchandise, markdowns (McVey, 1984), decreases in catalog sales (Tamburrino, 1992a), and brand dissatisfaction (DesMarteau, 2000). ...
... DesMarteau (2000) talked on the significance of fit, the causes of garment misfit, and its effects on service providers and consumers. According to a KSA survey, 50% of women and 62% of men struggle to find clothing that fits well, and other studies have found that 50% of catalogue returns are due to fit issues (DesMarteau, 2000). The lack of standardized Indian Size charts continues to be a key problem for clothing fit. ...
India relies on anthropometric data sourced from foreign nations to develop products, resulting in a formidable challenge for Indian consumers in their quest for products tailored to their specific bodily attributes. The garment industry, in particular, grapples with this issue, where Indian consumers must often compromise on the fit of clothing due to the absence of comprehensive databases pertaining to Indian body shapes and sizes. Recent reports underscore the gravity of this situation, revealing that garment returns account for a substantial 20% to 40% of sales, a trend exacerbated by the burgeoning e-commerce sector.In response to this pressing need, a nationwide anthropometric survey was meticulously conducted, leveraging state-of-the-art 3D whole-body scanning technology. This extensive study encompassed a cohort of more than 13,000 female volunteers (total subjects scanned 13045 and valid subjects 12492), aged 15 to 70, meticulously selected to represent all states across India's six distinct geographic regions. Systematically, the data collected was subjected to clustering, resulting in the categorization of body shapes, both at the regional and national levels. This classification process was anchored in robust measurements of height and key girth dimensions, with a specific focus on Bust, waist, hip, and upper hip girths. This indigenous research unveiled the four most prevalent body shapes among Indian females: Hourglass, Rectangle, Trapezoid, and Bottom hourglass. Furthermore, a comprehensive regional analysis of body shapes was conducted, and it was found that while regional variations existed, the fundamental body shape clusters among Indian females remained consistent with the national clusters. The regions displayed the same four primary body shapes for females, with variations in the prevalence of these identified shapes. This groundbreaking study underscores the necessity of considering regional variations in product design and sizing to cater to the diverse Indian population accurately.
... DesMarteau (2000) discussed the importance of fit, the reasons behind garment misfitting, and how it affects both customers and service providers. A KSA poll indicates that 62% of men and 50% of women find it difficult to obtain clothing that fits properly, and additional research indicates that fit concerns account for 50% of catalogue returns (DesMarteau, 2000). Unstandardized Indian size charts remain a major issue for fitting clothes. ...
The product creation process in India relies on imported anthropometric data from other nations, posing a major challenge for Indian consumers who desire tailored things that cater to their distinct physical attributes. Indian shoppers sometimes face difficulties in finding well-fitting garments due to the limited availability of comprehensive information on Indian body types and sizes. This issue is especially prevalent in the textile industry. The gravity of this situation is underscored by recent calculations indicating that apparel returns constitute a substantial 20% to 40% of sales, a trend that is exacerbated by the growing e-commerce sector.In response to the pressing need, a comprehensive statewide anthropometric survey was conducted using state-of-the-art 3D whole-body scanning technology. Conducted on a significant scale, this study encompassed a cohort of more than 13,000 male volunteers (total scanned subjects 13279 and valid subjects 12546), aged 15 to 70. The selection process was meticulous, ensuring representation from all six geographical regions of India. The collected data was methodically grouped into clusters, resulting in the categorization of body shapes on both a regional and national level. This classification technique was established based on accurate measurements of height and significant girth dimensions, specifically focusing on the waist, hip, upper hip, and chest girths.The three most frequent body types among Indian men, according to this indigenous survey, are the rectangle, the inverted trapezoid, and the trapezoid. Furthermore, a comprehensive analysis of body shapes at the regional level was conducted and compared to the shape clusters seen at the national level. The fundamental body structure groupings among Indian males were discovered to be in line with the national groupings, notwithstanding regional differences. The three primary male body forms were present in all the regions, however there were disparities in how common these shapes were. This ground-breaking study underscores how crucial it is to take regional variances in product sizing and design into account in order to appropriately serve the diversified Indian population.
... This problem has never DesMarteau 2000 declined as the reported in 2007 that about 84 percent of female consumers Chicago Tribune claimed not to be able to find clothing that fits properly, and poor or inconsistent fit accounted for a huge monetary loss in women's apparel sales ( ). In the case of mail or catalogue Giovis 2007 orders, a return rate of 30 percent and 50 percent has been reported in 1993 ( , 74-75) Abend 1993 andin 2000 ( ), respectively, due to fit problems. In the USA, 23 percent of all DesMarteau 2000 apparel purchases are returned, and 46 percent of the customers who returned their purchased clothing mentioned lack of fit as the major reason for returning ( ). ...
... Measuring clothes is essential for both sellers and buyers in the fashion industry, but it also incurs many unwanted costs. Such costs include labor costs (from manually measuring the size of a garment) and costs surrounding exchanges and refunds due to sizing issues [1,2]. For example, on the seller's side, apparel manufacturers regularly measure their products for quality control, and retail and thrift stores size their garments again to provide consumers with the size labels and accurate measurements. ...
Automatic garment size measurement approaches using computer vision algorithms have been attempted in various ways, but there are still many limitations to overcome. One limitation is that the process involves 2D images, which results in constraints in the process of determining the actual distance between the estimated points. To solve this problem, in this paper, we propose an automated method for measuring garment sizes using computer vision deep learning models and point cloud data. In the proposed method, a deep learning-based keypoint estimation model is first used to capture the clothing size measurement points from 2D images. Then, point cloud data from a LiDAR sensor are used to provide real-world distance information to calculate the actual clothing sizes. As the proposed method uses a mobile device equipped with a LiDAR sensor and camera, it is also more easily configurable than extant methods, which have varied constraints. Experimental results show that our method is not only precise but also robust in measuring the size regardless of the shape, direction, or design of the clothes in two different environments, with 1.59% and 2.08% of the average relative error, respectively.
... Various studies have shown that 50% of returns are caused by sizing issues [42,43]. Furthermore, fit of the garments may vary as body proportions do not conform entirely to standard sizing. ...
After becoming independent in 1957, Malaysia continued as an agricultural country but quickly grew into a manufacturing nation in a relatively short time. Literally from nowhere, the manufacturing sector now commands more than 38% of the nation’s GDP overtaking the agriculture sector which commands just slightly above 7%. In addition to the multinational manufacturers who are mainly in the electrical and electronics sectors, there are also other smaller producers who produce for the rest of the world. Nevertheless in order to compete, they cannot just rely on manual labour whether local or foreign, to produce high volume and high quality goods at a competitive price. With intense competition, even the old way of making many products to satisfy the global appetite for good products from both the brick-and-mortar shops to your huge online shops is no longer adequate. Manual operations in the manufacturing process can come in various forms, ranging from the very simple but monotonous and repetitive to the highly complex or sophisticated. In the quality department many of the local manufacturers have chosen to use human labour to ensure their quality is maintained. For many of these highly repetitive but relatively simple tasks, the human operators need to be properly trained for an appropriate length of time before they can perform effectively. Other than the intelligence of these operators, their ability to detect deviations from the desired patterns are also utilised. And this is where artificial intelligence and computer vision can help. The term artificial intelligence was first coined at the Dartmouth Summer Research Project on Artificial Intelligence by John McCarthy in 1956. While there are many definitions, Ray Kurzweil, an American inventor and futurist defines it as machines that perform functions that require intelligence when performed by humans[1]. On the other hand, computer vision deals with how computers can gain high-level understanding from digital images or videos. From the perspective of engineering, it seeks to understand and automate tasks that the human visual system can do. This paper shows how artificial intelligence combined with computer vision can be used to improve productivity and effectiveness in three different areas.
... With increasing online sales, the fit of garments has serious implications for a fashion retailer because ill-fitting garments are directly related to product return rates [49,50] . The evaluation of garment fit without the physical participation of customers and designers is very useful for online clothing shoppers. ...
Virtual reality is a technology that allows users to completely interact with a computer-simulated environment, and put on new clothes to check the effect without taking off their clothes. In this paper, a virtual fit evaluation of pants using the Adaptive Network Fuzzy Inference System (ANFIS), VFE-ANFIS for short, is proposed. There are two stages of the VFE-ANFIS: training and evaluation. In the first stage, we trained some key pressure parameters by using the VFE-ANFIS; these key pressure parameters were collected from real try-on and virtual try-on of pants by users. In the second stage, we evaluated the fit by using the trained VFE-ANFIS, in which some key pressure parameters of pants from a new user were determined and we output the evaluation results, fit or unfit. In addition, considering the small number of input samples, we used the 10-fold cross-validation method to divide the data set into a training set and a testing set; the test accuracy of the VFE-ANFIS was 94.69% ± 2.4%, and the experimental results show that our proposed VFE-ANFIS could be applied to the virtual fit evaluation of pants.
... It is evident that a poor-fitting garment would lead to consumers' dissatisfaction, return of merchandise, and financial losses (Abraham-Murali and Littrell, 1995;DesMarteau, 2000;Reich and Goldsberry, 1993), whereas a well-fitting garment can provide both physiological comfort (e.g., ease of movement) and psychological comfort (e.g., aesthetically acceptable) to the wearers. Therefore, it is important for the fashion practitioners to understand the relationships between the body type and garment fit in order to produce desirable and good fitting garments as well as to establish a relevant and updated Size Chart for today's consumers. ...
It is evident that a poor-fitting garment would lead to consumers’ dissatisfaction, return of
merchandise, and financial losses (Abraham-Murali and Littrell, 1995; DesMarteau, 2000; Reich and Goldsberry, 1993), whereas a well-fitting garment can provide both physiological comfort (e.g., ease of movement) and psychological comfort (e.g., aesthetically acceptable) to the wearers. Therefore, it is important for the fashion practitioners to understand the relationships between the body type and garment fit in order to produce desirable and good fitting garments as well as to establish a relevant and updated Size Chart for today’s consumers. However, there have been limited research literature (Chattaraman et al., 2013; Hogge et al., 1988; Oliver et al., 1993) have examined on the relationship of men’s body type and clothing fit. As Chattaraman et al. (2013, p. 291) assert, “Although both men and women experience fit dissatisfaction, scholarly research has almost exclusively focused on women, leaving a critical gap in the research on men’s fit issues and preferences.” In order to understand the body size and garment fit of men, [TC]2 3D Body Scanner will be used to collect anthropometric data from male participants in order to develop different size charts for diverse body types (e.g., oversized, muscular, average, slender). In short, body scanning has been widely used in both academia and industry to provide accurate assessment of body measurements and generate three-dimensional images of participants’ external body shape (Bougourd et al., 2000; Grogan et al., 2016). In addition to body scan, an in-depth interview will
be employed to gain a deeper understanding of how men perceive and evaluate clothing from three different perspectives – aesthetic, function and emotion. Through this study, we believe that we can (1) identify some prevalent body types of men including the waist-to-height ratio, neck-to-arm ratio, and arm-to-height ratio; (2) better understand the relationships among the Body Mass Index (BMI), garment ease, and perceived body image; and (3) perhaps a greater variety of garment fits can be offered to the short men who have been underserved. The results of this study will provide insights and information related to short male consumers’ shopping behavior, and consumption experiences.
... Although finding clothing with the desired fit is important for both men and women (DesMarteau, 2000), women have long received more attention and scholarly research. Research into men's fitting preferences and the effect of fit on their self-esteem is very limited. ...
The purpose of this study was to categorize lower body shape in men and to investigate
the interplay between body shape and fitting issues appearing in men’s jeans. More specifically, the goal of the study was to improve apparel fit based on body shape. The detailed objectives of the study were to: (1) Categorize male body shapes using statistical analysis; (2) use 3D virtual fitting technology to assess fit and develop a shape-driven pants block pattern for each body shape.
This quantitative study was conducted in three stages: (1) categorizing the body shape of
1420 male scans, aged 18-35, from the SizeUSA dataset, (2) develop a shape-driven pants block pattern for each identified body shape, and (3) validate the developed blocks by virtually trying the shape-driven block pattern on fit testers from different body shape groups. Exploratory Factor Analysis (EFA) and cluster analysis were used for body shape
categorization, which resulted in three different body shapes: (1) Flat-Straight, (2) Moderate Curvy-Straight, and (3) Curvy. Three fit models were selected from each identified body shape group and then patterns were developed using Armstrong’s (2005) jeans foundation method. Patterns were modified and fitted to the selected representative fit models of each body shape group. The developed shape-driven block patterns were simulated on the fit testers to further explore the relationship between body shape and fit issues.
This study suggests that two individuals with identical body measurements may
experience very different fit problems tailored to their different body shapes. It was found that each body shape would exclusively experience unique fit issues. Furthermore, the shape driven block patterns were found to be highly correlated with their host body shape category. This research implies that if the mass customization process starts with block patterns that are engineered for specific body shape categories significantly less fit issues would appear and the desired fit would be achieved in fewer fitting sessions.
... Although finding clothing with the desired fit is important for both men and women (DesMarteau, 2000), women have long received more attention and scholarly research. Research into men's fitting preferences and the effect of fit on their self-esteem is very limited. ...
The purpose of this study was to categorize lower body shape in men and to investigate
the interplay between body shape and fitting issues appearing in men’s jeans. More specifically, the goal of the study was to improve apparel fit based on body shape. The detailed objectives of the study were to: (1) Categorize male body shapes using statistical analysis; (2) use 3D virtual fitting technology to assess fit and develop a shape-driven pants block pattern for each body shape.
This quantitative study was conducted in three stages: (1) categorizing the body shape of
1420 male scans, aged 18-35, from the SizeUSA dataset, (2) develop a shape-driven pants block pattern for each identified body shape, and (3) validate the developed blocks by virtually trying the shape-driven block pattern on fit testers from different body shape groups. Exploratory Factor Analysis (EFA) and cluster analysis were used for body shape
categorization, which resulted in three different body shapes: (1) Flat-Straight, (2) Moderate Curvy-Straight, and (3) Curvy. Three fit models were selected from each identified body shape group and then patterns were developed using Armstrong’s (2005) jeans foundation method. Patterns were modified and fitted to the selected representative fit models of each body shape group. The developed shape-driven block patterns were simulated on the fit testers to further explore the relationship between body shape and fit issues.
This study suggests that two individuals with identical body measurements may
experience very different fit problems tailored to their different body shapes. It was found that each body shape would exclusively experience unique fit issues. Furthermore, the shape driven block patterns were found to be highly correlated with their host body shape category. This research implies that if the mass customization process starts with block patterns that are engineered for specific body shape categories significantly less fit issues would appear and the desired fit would be achieved in fewer fitting sessions.
... With increasing online sales, the fit of garments has serious implications for a fashion retailer because ill-fitting garments are directly related to product return rates [49,50] . The evaluation of garment fit without the physical participation of customers and designers is very useful for online clothing shoppers. ...
... With increasing online sales, the fit of garments has serious implications for a fashion retailer because ill-fitting garments are directly related to product return rates [49,50] . The evaluation of garment fit without the physical participation of customers and designers is very useful for online clothing shoppers. ...
Presently, garment fit evaluation mainly focuses on real try-on and rarely deals with virtual try-on. With the rapid development of e-commerce, there is a profound growth of garment purchases through the Internet. In this context, fit evaluation of virtual garment try-on is vital in the clothing industry. In this chapter, we propose a Naive Bayes-based model to evaluate garment fit. The inputs of the proposed model are digital clothing pressures of different body parts, generated from a 3D garment CAD software, while the output is the predicted result of garment fit (fit or unfit). To construct and train the proposed model, data on digital clothing pressures and garment real fit was collected for input and output learning data, respectively. By learning from these data, our proposed model can predict garment fit rapidly and automatically without any real try-on; therefore, it can be applied to remote garment fit evaluation in the context of e-shopping. Finally, the effectiveness of our proposed method was validated using a set of test samples. Test results showed that digital clothing pressure is a better index than ease allowance to evaluate garment fit, and machine learning-based garment fit evaluation methods have higher prediction accuracies.
... Thus, it is reasonable to suggest that a well-fitting garment can provide both physiological comfort (e.g., ease of movement) and psychological comfort (e.g., aesthetically acceptable) to the wearers. On the contrary, a poor-fitting garment would lead to consumers' dissatisfaction, return of merchandise, and financial losses for the fashion companies (Abraham-Murali and Littrell, 1995;DesMarteau, 2000;Reich and Goldsberry, 1993). According to a study conducted by Howarton and Lee (2010), many respondents expressed that they were frustrated and disappointed with the apparel industry due to their dissatisfaction of garment fit. ...
This article focuses on short male consumers and fashion design. There are two reasons why we chose short men for this study. First, male consumers who are shorter than 5’8” have been ignored by most of the mainstream fashion brands (Brock, 2013). Second, “scholarly research has almost exclusively focused on women, leaving a critical gap in the research on men’s fit issues and preferences (Chattaraman et al. (2013, p. 291).” Qualitative and quantitative research methods were employed to understand how short men perceive, evaluate and select clothing from different perspectives. This research project consists of three phases, however, we only completed the first phase of our study at this stage. Therefore, this article only focuses on phase one, and the results of phase two and three will be presented in the future. In phase one, online posted comments were collected from two fashion blogs in order to understand short men’s shopping and consuming experiences. We believe that the results of this study will provide meaningful insights and useful information to fashion practitioners in general and menswear designers in particular.
... With increasing online sales, the fit of garments has serious implications for a fashion retailer because ill-fitting garments are directly related to product return rates [49,50] . The evaluation of garment fit without the physical participation of customers and designers is very useful for online clothing shoppers. ...
Presently, garment fit evaluation mainly focuses on real try-on, and rarely deals with virtual try-on. With the rapid development of E-commerce, there is a profound growth of garment purchases through the internet. In this context, fit evaluation of virtual garment try-on is vital in the clothing industry. In this paper, we propose a Naive Bayes-based model to evaluate garment fit. The inputs of the proposed model are digital clothing pressures of different body parts, generated from a 3D garment CAD software; while the output is the predicted result of garment fit (fit or unfit). To construct and train the proposed model, data on digital clothing pressures and garment real fit was collected for input and output learning data respectively. By learning from these data, our proposed model can predict garment fit rapidly and automatically without any real try-on; therefore, it can be applied to remote garment fit evaluation in the context of e-shopping. Finally, the effectiveness of our proposed method was validated using a set of test samples. Test results showed that digital clothing pressure is a better index than ease allowance to evaluate garment fit, and machine learning-based garment fit evaluation methods have higher prediction accuracies.
... Although vanity sizing might enhance consumers' self-image and raise sales revenue, size variation across different brands causes confusion and frustration among consumers. Furthermore, the vast number of returns and exchanges due to size inconsistency are costly in terms of time, effort, and financial resources to consumers as well as retailers (DesMarteau, 2000). ...
This paper examines the size charts of 54 American apparel retailers. Evidence reveals that sizes are inflated for women's apparel brands with moderately higher prices. Very expensive designer brands measure significantly smaller than lower priced brands for women's apparel. Brands that target young adult female consumers measure significantly smaller than their counterparts that target relatively older consumers.
... A Kurt Salmon Associates' study (2000) reported that 50percent of women cannot find a good fit in apparel, and fit problems are the reason for 50percent of catalog returns [22]. Furthermore, it was stated that the most dissatisfied apparel consumers were women [23] [24]. ...
Each country needs its own size chart to suit its population ,because researchers have found that human body shapes, proportions and measurements change significantly with geographical and demographical differences. However, the ready-to-wear apparel industry still faces the problem of poor fit of apparels. Therefore, this research aims at developing size charts for female pants by primarily categorizing the diverse lower body shapes of Sri Lanka in females and clustering their anthropometric dataset using global kernel k-means clustering approach. A sample of 1068 Sri Lankan females of ages
20-40 years were measured and thirteen lower body measurements were collected. This dataset was preliminary categorized into three categories using waist-to-hip ratio (WHR) in order to accurately represent
the female lower bodies. The categorized dataset was clustered separately using the global kernel k-
means clustering approach This clustered data was used to develop size charts for female pants and the resultant size charts were validated by live model fitting of fabricated pants and through a standard feedback questionnaire . It showed that the developed size charts clearly represent the Sri Lankan females aged 20-40 years, which will lead to a reduction of fit problems in the ready-to-wear pant market.
... Additionally, empirical tests of fit have shown that size labels tend to be smaller than actual dimensions in garments, especially among higher-end apparel (Tamburrino, 1992;Kinley, 2003). When successful in its intent, vanity sizing can be a means of competitive advantage (DesMarteau, 2000). However, inconsistencies in sizing among brands remain a source of frustration to consumers. ...
The present research applies anchoring theory to investigate the influence of retail environments on consumer responses to vanity sized garments. The findings reveal that responses to vanity sized garments in classic retail environments and department stores are diminished, because these retailer environments foster greater anticipation of accurately sized apparel. Meanwhile, disbelief in vanity sized garments is suspended in trendy and off-price retail environments, because anchoring effects set up expectations that vanity sizing may be more likely in these environments. The findings are supported by the mediating explanation of believability for classic and department store contexts but not for trendy and off-price environments. Implications, limitations, and future research directions are discussed.
... The customer benefits are particularly true in the apparel market. It is estimated that 70% to 80% of apparel products may not meet customers' size expectations, and this contributes to 50% of women and 62% of men not being able to find products that fit (Abend 1993 andDesMarteau 2000). The outcome is not just lost sales but a large volume of returns. ...
Standard models of competition predict that firms will sell less when competitors target their customers with advertising. This is particularly true in mature markets with many competitors that sell relatively undifferentiated products. However, the authors present findings from a large-scale randomized field experiment that contrast sharply with this prediction. The field experiment measures the impact of competitors' advertising on sales at a private label apparel retailer. Surprisingly, for a substantial segment of customers, the competitors' advertisements increased sales at this retailer. This robust effect was obtained through experimental manipulation and by measuring actual purchases from large samples of randomly assigned customers. The effect size is also large, with customers ordering more than 4% more items in some categories in the treatment condition (vs. the control). The authors examine how these positive spillovers vary across product categories to illustrate the importance of product standards, customer learning, and switching costs. The findings have the potential to change our understanding of competition in mature markets.
... Previous studies on clothing consumption have already touched upon the topic of size and fitting. Consumer surveys in the clothing industry indicate that in general between 35% and 50% of female consumers in the USA were not satisfied with the fitting in their clothing already ahead of the surge in online stores (Desmarteau 2000;Goldsberry et al. 1996). Alexander et al. studied the shopping behaviour of young women in south-eastern USA and found that almost 64% of the respondents frequently changed ready-to-wear clothes to achieve the desired fit (Alexander et al. 2005). ...
... Linear increments between sizes in a sizing system facilitate pattern-making and grading. Actual human measurements, however, do not support the assumption that the difference between the principal girths is constant (Schofield in Desmarteau, 2000). It is clear that how and where these measurements should be measured on the human body must be described in detail to be able to make accurate assumptions and comparisons. ...
... Therefore, they should have a strong strategic market competition. But as statistic by specialist, consumer dissatisfaction with garment fit today is recorded to be as high as 62% in men and 50% in women [1]. It is a big challenge to manufacture as how to achieve a satisfied garment products, and how to achieve innovative material in response to the consumers' demand. ...
Nowadays， with the increasing demand of people in fashion design, the existing fabrics, structures, styles, colors and patterns can no longer meet the needs of the designers. It forces designers to make three-dimensional structural designs and reshape fabrics with various means based on the original ones, which may change the original fabrics largely in forms, textures and structures, and enrich the look of the original fabrics; meanwhile, it is also an extremely new way to interpret the fashion concept. What is more, it can broaden the range of employing materials and the innovative designs of structures, which has been an important method in modern fashion design.
... Although these were useful for evaluating simple garment fit issues, they were not adequate to investigate the multifaceted relationship between the body and clothing. The 3-D body scanner captured three dimensional nature of human body and provided valuable information to analyze the garment fit (DesMarteau, 2000). Kim et al. (2001investigated wearing ease, the distance between the body and the garment at critical locations using merged cross-section slices between the body scan and clothed scan. ...
The garment fit played an important role in protective performance, comfort and mobility. The purpose of this study is to quantify the air gap to quantitatively characterize a three-dimensional (3-D) garment fit using a 3-D body scanning technique. A method for processing of scanned data was developed to investigate the air gap size and distribution between the clothing and human body. The mesh model formed from nude and clothed body was aligned, superimposed and sectioned using Rapidform software. The air gap size and distribution over the body surface were analyzed. The total air volume was also calculated. The effects of fabric properties and garment size on air gap distribution were explored. The results indicated that average air gap of the fit clothing was around 25-30 mm and the overall air gap distribution was similar. The air gap was unevenly distributed over the body and it was strongly associated with the body parts, fabric properties and garment size. The research will help understand the overall clothing fit and its association with protection, thermal and movement comfort, and provide guidelines for clothing engineers to improve thermal performance and reduce physiological burden.
... Although these were useful for evaluating simple garment fit issues, they were not adequate to investigate the multifaceted relationship between the body and clothing. The 3-D body scanner captured three dimensional nature of human body and provided valuable information to analyze the garment fit (DesMarteau, 2000). Kim et al. (2001investigated wearing ease, the distance between the body and the garment at critical locations using merged cross-section slices between the body scan and clothed scan. ...
The garment fit played an important role in protective performance, comfort and mobility. The purpose of this study is to quantify the air gap to quantitatively characterize a three-dimensional (3-D) garment fit using a 3-D body scanning technique. A method for processing of scanned data was developed to investigate the air gap size and distribution between the clothing and human body. The mesh model formed from nude and clothed body was aligned, superimposed and sectioned using Rapidform software. The air gap size and distribution over the body surface were analyzed. The total air volume was also calculated. The effects of fabric properties and garment size on air gap distribution were explored. The results indicated that average air gap of the fit clothing was around 25~30 mm and the overall air gap distribution was similar. The air gap was unevenly distributed over the body and it was strongly associated with the body parts, fabric properties and garment size. The research will help understand the overall clothing fit and its association with protection, thermal and movement comfort, and provide guidelines for clothing engineers to improve thermal performance and reduce physiological burden.
... But no all of the consumer satisfaction with garment fit today. It is recorded to be as high as 62% in men and 50% in women dissatisfaction with apparel [2]. The consumers are considered not only functional comfort, but also aesthetic value and structural design. ...
Relationships of cold protective clothing design and market were explored for apparel function and structure, and cold protective clothing company product to successful meet market demand. People require a large number of outdoor cold protective clothing that makes a chain of market, designer, consumer and manufacturer. They are not only focus on apparel functional comfort but also garment style preference structural design. Sophisticated new technologies are available to the apparel industry to create automated custom-fitted clothing, using 3-D body scanning and software designed to automate patternmaking to effectively improve productivity [1]. Currently, the quantification of fit is complex and ambiguous and objective methods. The purpose of this study was to explore the cold protective clothing manufacturer should have the necessary conditions on function and structure for the market demand.
... The lack of experiential information due to the inability to try on and assess fit increases perceived risk and is the main deterrent of online purchasing for apparel (Internet Retailer, 2005). With increasing online sales, the fit of garments has serious implications for a fashion retailer because ill-fitting garments are directly related to product return rates (DesMarteau, 2000). To facilitate consumers' information processing, in terms of fit and size of garments, online apparel retailers have displayed their products using human models. ...
The purposes of this study was to examine the relationships among body-related self-discrepancy, body dissatisfaction, apparel involvement, concerns with fit and size of garments, and purchase intentions based on self-discrepancy theory. A random sample of college female students (n = 348) was drawn from a Midwestern university. The data was collected using a web-based survey. A hypothesized model was tested using the SEM technique. The results indicated that consumers’ perceived body-related self-discrepancy from online models had a direct relationship with body dissatisfaction. Consumers with higher enduring apparel involvement tended to feel a higher degree of body dissatisfaction. Body dissatisfaction was positively related to five concerns with fit and size of garment dimensions. Enduring apparel involvement was negatively related to concerns with overall appearance and concerns with imagining fit/size in online shopping. Finally, two of the concerns with fit and size of garment dimensions (concerns with overall appearance and concerns with imagining fit/size in online shopping) were negatively related to purchase intentions.
... Several studies indicate that women are not satisfied with the fit of ready-to-wear apparel (DesMarteau, 2000;LaBat, 1997;Goldsberry et al., 1996). Because apparel patterns have traditionally been based on the same pattern development strategies, sizing systems and grading methods, dissatisfaction with the fit of home sewn apparel may be similar to dissatisfaction with ready-to-wear apparel (Salusso-Deonier, 1989). ...
Purpose
The paper seeks to explore home sewers' satisfaction with the fit of garments made from home sewing patterns and to provide useful information to the home sewing industry to improve products and services for the target consumer.
Design/methodology/approach
Home sewers attending home sewing expos in the states of Minnesota and Washington were surveyed to determine satisfaction with fit of home sewing patterns and to determine factors that may affect satisfaction with the patterns.
Findings
The results clearly indicate that these respondents were frustrated with the fit of home sewing patterns and that their efforts to adjust patterns for better fit were typically not successful.
Research limitations/implications
The limited sample does not allow generalization, but may lend some insight into problems the home sewing pattern industry may have in attracting and maintaining customer loyalty.
Originality/value
Although there are many studies demonstrating consumer dissatisfaction with the fit of ready‐to‐wear apparel, few studies have focused specifically on the home sewing pattern industry. This industry could benefit from further understanding of its customer base.
... According to Kurt Salmon Associates (Kurt Salmon Associates, 2000), 50 percent of women and 62 percent of men cannot find a good fit in apparel. Other studies have shown fit problems to be the reason for 50% of catalog returns (DesMarteau, 2000). With the wide variety of body shapes and sizes and a trend towards more fitted garments, fit problems continue to be an issue for apparel manufacturers and retailers, with no clear resolution. ...
The fit session is the main point of evaluation for a garment during the product development process. This paper presents an analysis of the perceptions and practices of apparel industry professionals regarding best practices and areas for improvement for fit sessions. Participants from a large manufacturer of athletic apparel, including designers, merchandisers, product development managers, and pattern makers responded to a survey. Their responses suggest that fit sessions encompass product development decisions that extend beyond the fit of the garment to evaluation of design. Recommendations address the organization and communication of industry fit sessions with suggestions for using new technology to improve garment fit.
... Some in the industry would like to see actual waist and length measurements included on size tags for women's clothing, but manufacturers tend to disagree about the benefits and detriments of adding this information to their garments (DesMarteau, 2000). Intended fit is viewed as a direct aspect of a brand's identity (Crane, 2004). ...
Purpose
The purpose of this study is to determine whether clothing benefits sought (CBS) affected fit preferences, satisfaction with the fit of ready‐to‐wear, label style preferences, and shopping behaviors of US women.
Design/methodology/approach
Written questionnaires were completed to determine the relationship between the CBS paradigm and the fit and shopping variables examined in the study. A larger study from which these findings are drawn involved behaviors related specifically to pants.
Findings
Responses on questionnaires from 150 women indicated four CBS factors: Fashion Forward, Sexy, Reputation, and Individualist. Study participants who desired Fashion Forward benefits preferred to shop in specialty stores and a tighter fit. Participants who sought Sexy benefits spent the most money on average, for a new pair of pants, preferred a tighter fit, clothing sized by waist dimension, and shopping in specialty stores. Participants who desired Reputation benefits from clothing shopped in specialty stores. Respondents who sought the Individualist benefits were more likely to shop via catalog/internet.
Research limitations/implications
Data were obtained from a convenience sample of women in a metropolitan area of the USA, thus generalization of results is limited.
Practical implications
In an overstored, highly competitive retail environment, the CBS paradigm will be useful in targeting product and product delivery. The findings indicate, however, that women who seek different benefits from their clothing do shop differently.
Originality/value
Results of the study will help one to better define markets according to an intuitively useful psychographic variable for which there has been limited research.
This study investigated parental needs for size-adaptive garments for toddlers, aiming to address issues of fit and responsible consumption. The four-stage project involved a survey of 25 parents to determine parents’ needs and interest in size-adaptive garments, an analysis of ASTM D4910 size data and size charts of children's apparel, the development of three size-adaptive pilot garments, and evaluation of prototype garments with parents. The researchers revealed a preference among parents for size-adaptive garments, emphasizing vertical growth adjustments. Survey participants expressed interest in responsible consumption, highlighting longevity, and durability as key factors for success of a size-adaptive children's apparel. The proposed size-adaptive garments align with Gilmore and Pine II adaptive customizer approach, which emphasizes products that change functionality and representation to meet customer needs without altering the product itself. Findings suggest potential benefits for the children's apparel industry, such as reducing size offerings and accommodating diverse toddlers’ body proportions.
The creation of sizing system is very critical in making sure that garments and other items fit in proper and comfortable manner for the wearers. The procedure inculcates determination of standard measurements for several body shapes and types along with development of size charts which accurately depict these measurements. The sizing system must consider easiness in movement and construction of garment to make sure that fit of the garment is good. This chapter inculcates conductance of previous studies on measurement of the body and portions on several range of consumers along with important terms in sizing system. In addition, it also deals with the prominence of sizing system and reviewing sizing system which had been developed for previous studies. Furthermore, this chapter exhibits the creation of sizing system along with statistical methodology and data mining practices. In consequence, the creation of a sizing system requires cautious contemplation of several parameters to make sure that fitting demand of consumers is fulfilled.
Embracing a positive-psychology approach to well-being, this study aimed at identifying how to maximize students’ pleasure when receiving grades. Results from two experiments showed that students gained greater pleasure when receiving feedback in letter-grade format than in percentage scores. The results are consistent with social–psychological and sociocognitive research wherein coarser (as opposed to more granular) feedback is easier to process, provides superior self-affirming feedback, and, subsequently, garners greater pleasure. As the management discipline wrestles with being “too scientific,” an impression aligned with precise percentage scores, use of a coarser feedback system may present a unique auxiliary benefit to the discipline. We invite future research on whether a system can be too coarse, on faculty’s amenability to coarse grading systems, and on the concurrent use of multiple grading systems varying in coarseness.
Clothing, creates interactions with others, can transmit a vast array of meanings such as identity, value, mood, and attitude. The core value is unisex clothing and transformable, made to fit on different body parts in different ways. The study was carried out with the objective to identify the different body shapes to be considered for unisex clothing, to
identify the different sizes of Unisex clothing, to identify the colour and shade preferred for unisex clothing and to frame a shape, size and colour for different body shape towards manufacturing unisex clothing. National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) has 16 Centres throughout India out of which the 4 Centres situated in Bengaluru, Chennai,
Hyderabad and Kannur were taken up for the study. Out of 1067 questionnaires distributed 915 had responded and the response rate works out to 85.75%. Six different body shapes such as Triangle shape, Inverted triangle shape, Rectangle shape, Hourglass shape, Diamond shape and Rounded shapes were considered for the study. The size measurements that are normally taken are for bottom size i.e. waist measurement and top size i.e. chest measurement. For unisex clothing, the bottom has been indicated as less than 28”, 28”, 30”, 32” and 34”. The top size has been indicated as XXS, XS, S, M, L, XL and XXL. The study also identifies the colour preferences for unisex clothing. The neutral shades are the most preferred shades by Less than 28 and 28 in XS preferred by Triangle,
Rectangle, Diamond and Rounded shapes. The neutral shades are the most preferred shades 28, 30, 32 and 34 of M preferred by Inverted Triangle, Rectangle, Hourglass and Rounded shapes whereas the Light shade preferred by Diamond shape. The neutral shade of 32 only preferred by L in Triangle and Inverted triangle shapes, whereas Light shade is preferred by L in Rectangle and Dark shade in Hourglass and Rounded shapes. The dark shades are the most preferred shades by Less than 28 and 28 in XS preferred by Inverted triangle and Hourglass shapes. Earlier studies were carried out among the apparel and fashion designers on their Perception and Awareness on Unisex Clothing. Further,
based on the designer's opinion, this study facilitates to identify the body shape and size for unisex clothing.
1.1 Purpose This research establishes the skills sets and processes of current industry practitioners and the effect this has on the achievement of good garment fit. This is contrasted with established definitions of good garment fit, outlined in current literature, and provides evidence of areas which should be addressed through training. 1.2 Methodology A methodological strategy was developed to collect and analyse data from clothing professionals currently working within the clothing industry. A convenience sample of individuals working within various garment development roles for a variety of market levels were selected. Semi structured interviews were employed to gather data on industry processes and protocols. A fit evaluation tool was developed synthesising Fastfit, a tool that allows practitioners to view moving 360° pictures of garments, and literature definitions of good garment fit. This tool enabled the collection of observational data on practitioners' skill sets. Both methods were used in the same instance. 1.3 Findings The paper established that although subjects worked at different market levels, their processes were similar and often individual practices within or perceptions of the process impacted directly on the garment fit. Skill set levels also varied within the sample set even between individuals who performed similar roles, which resulted in a variation of knowledge regarding suitable fit. Results indicated that problems with garment fit are cumulative, with issues involving practitioner skills levels and bad practice impacting on garment fit. It was identified that current academic research, centred on utilising technology for the improvement of garment fit, proffered solutions which were unfamiliar to practitioners, in terms of their skill sets and geared towards technologies not available within their workplaces. This study found that there
Purpose
– The purpose of this paper is to develop a method for defining and categorizing upper lateral somatotypes for clothing size systems used for clothing pattern creation based on directional angles of 3D space vectors.
Design/methodology/approach
– 3D data for 317 men in their twenties obtained from the fifth Size Korea survey were used in this study. Standard landmarks and surfaces were set on the 3D shapes, and six space vector angles of the lateral form were defined and measured. Relationships among the measurement results were clarified, and the results were compared with those obtained using existing classifying methods.
Findings
– The measurement of the defined directional angles indicated that the swayback type and bend-forward type had the two extreme values, and the straight type was between the two values. The analysis of the correlation between six directional angles indicated that some points in the lower area of the upper body had a high correlation with other points in the lower area.
Researchlimitations/implications
– The subjects of this study were limited to lateral somatotypes, and there is a need for future studies that focus on frontal somatotypes. This research is confined to the upper lateral somatotypes of men in their twenties. Further study is needed to extend the results of this study to other body types such as those of elderly and overweight persons.
Practical implications
– Major angle measurements quantified by the somatotypes can be specifically reflect in developing and revised to the right patterns which is spread body shell replica or individual pattern for MTM.
Social implications
– This objective somatotype analysis method can be involved in determining individual body somatotype of ordermade clothes or can provided the accurate information interactively to MTM automatic customized pattern making system.
Originality/value
– Accurate measurements of size, shape, and posture were applied and characterized to realize the process. Accuracy was improved compared to existing 2D analysis methods through three-dimensional analysis using directional space vector angles based on 3D forms.
Reflecting two ways of impacting a garment sizing system-by modifying the body sizing table, and by modifying the ease amounts added (at bust and hip only), 4 garment sizing systems presenting the combinations of a standard (ASTM D5585-95R01) or a modified body sizing table, each with constant or size-dependent ease amounts across sizes, were compared by testing their relative (as opposed to absolute) performance in fit tests with 81 study participants. Test garments (princess style jackets), sizes 2-16, were manufactured for each system (32 garments). Each participant was photographed in the best-fitting size garment from each system. Three fit experts ranked the 4 garments by fit for each study participant. Statistical analysis indicated better overall performance of systems based on size-dependent ease (but not within each size group) and of the modified table (significantly better for participants with small hip-bust drop and not significantly for participants with large drop).
This study examines the influence of specific physical factors (body size), demographic factors (age), and psychosocial factors (body satisfaction, social physique anxiety, and drive for muscularity) on apparel-specific (jeans, khakis, dress shirts, and polo shirts) fit preferences of male consumers. Data were collected through an online survey administered to 141 men in the age group of 19-66 years. Results revealed that increase in body size significantly predicted preferences for apparel (jeans, dress, and polo shirts) with looser fits, and jeans with higher waistlines. Increase in age also predicted preferences for dress and polo shirts with looser fits and jeans with higher waists. With respect to the body-image-related factors, increase in body dissatisfaction predicted increased preferences for dress shirts with looser fits and khakis with higher waistlines. Contrary to expectations, increase in men's drive for muscularity predicted preferences for jeans with lower waistlines. This study offers important implications and creates actionable market information on fit strategy for male consumer segments.
Function and comfort are the main two aspects of outdoor protective clothing design. Outdoor clothing industry market has grown rapidly in recent years. There exists a strong market competation in apparel industry. Satisfaction in consumer's demands is the crucial. In this paper, the trends of demands from four aspects factors were analyzed. Thses trends include potential consumer's market; consumer's aesthetic and fit demands, functions and fashion construction design demands, optimization construction design and wear comfort demands. Optimization construction design directly impacts air gap size and distribution, the air gap layers between skin and clothing is determined by clothing construction design. 3D scanning provides a novel method to visualize and quantify the air gaps. But optimization construction design need more experiences and tests.
Somatotype is human body shape and physique type which can be classified not only by the size, but also by the shape or posture of the body. Postural variations in the alignment of the back, shoulder, and neck can have an adverse effect on the fit of garments designed to hang from the shoulders. There have been some previous studies about the lateral upper torso by analyzing photographic measurements. In this study, 3D body scan images were used to classify the side somatotype of upper lateral method even though they are major data in the classification of upper torso. This study focused on following objective.; 1) To apply new and developing technology into the apparel industry analyzing 3D body scan images. 2) To classify upper laterla torso using the data through the new improver technology, 3D body scanner. 3) To propose basic materials for well fitted garments for each type of figure. The test subjects for this study were two hundreds nine female aged 19 years and up who were recruited in Cornell university body scan research team. Seventeen Variables(12 angles, 5 lengths) out of 3D body scan data were measured based on these landmarks and applied to analyze. The result of factor analysis indicated that 6 factors were extracted through factor analysis and orthogonal rotation by the method of Varimax and those factors comprise 62.5% of total variance. And the somatotype of upper body is classified into 3 types of figures according to cluster analysis; Bent forward posture, Straight posture, Swayback posture. Future study could be addressed about the somatotype of body by the age group based on the large database with wide variety of age.
To deal with the challenges of shortened product life cycle while considering various trends and consumers' demands, several companies have begun to explore mass customization. In this paper, we study the economic factors leading to mass customization, review the advanced technologies and develop a new process of computer-aided design (CAD) for effective mass customization. To define the purchasing patterns of the consumers, we analyze the statistical data of the world economy, consumer expenditures and online sales in the apparel sector. We also use statistical information about employment and labor cost in the textile industry to understand growing interest in mass customization. Based on our understanding of the advanced technologies developed for mass customization, we offer two potential ways to facilitate the design personalization in the entire process of apparel mass customization: two-dimensional and three-dimensional computer-aided garment intelligent design systems. By developing a new CAD system that provides a versatile selection of styles and fits for apparel production processes, the efficiency of mass customization can be improved in the apparel industry.
The objective of this two part paper is to present a method of enhancing accuracy of fabric drape simulation using commercially available software. In Part I, we report results of an investigation of drape variability for a set of fabrics having varied mechanical properties, an essential step in defining accuracy for drape simulation. Results illustrate that fabric drape behaviour is highly variable and thus provide no single drape configuration to target with simulation. Development of a revolutionary method for capturing drape of actual fabrics and measuring that drape in a virtual three-dimensional (3D) environment is also presented. The method allows identical drape measurement processes to be implemented for actual and simulated fabrics and provides opportunity for use of additional measures to assess fabric drape in three dimensions. The accomplishments presented in this paper are utilized to demonstrate, in Part II, development of a relationship that enhances realism of particle model simulations generated using the commercial drape simulation software.
Sophisticated new technologies are available to the apparel industry to create automated custom-fitted clothing; research and development of necessary data and proceduresfor implementing these programs must be within reach of apparel companies to successfully implement custom.fit. This study explores issues in setting up a custom apparel patternmaking process using 3D body scanning and software designed to automate patternmaking. Questions related to measurement reliability and validity, data and knowledge needed to create and test required system variables, andfit preference issues were addressed in this study. A system for generating custom-fitted outerwearjackets was developedfor an industry collaborator, Log House Designs, and tested on ten participants. The.fit of the prototype custom jackets was compared to thefit of a set of ready-to-wearjackets. Seven of the ten participants preferred thefit of the prototype custom jacket; the remaining three were equally satisfied with both jackets.
As women age, changes occur in their posture and bilateral symmetry that affect the fit of clothing. These changes have been documented in many studies. Anthropometric measures made in previous studies, however, were limited to linear measurements (circumferences or lengths) and included only one angle, the shoulder slope. In this study, the authors took detailed measurements using a 3-D body scanner to validate previous studies and more precisely quantify body changes in older women. They compared upper-body measurements of 40 women aged 19-35 to those of 40 women aged 55+. Using these measurements, we quantified the differences in posture and the differences in the amount of bilateral variation between the older and younger women. Nineteen upper-body angles, 16 linear measurements, and one proportional measurement were included in the study. Of the 36 body measurements taken, 21 measurements were significantly different between the two groups of women.
Purpose
The three‐dimensional (3D) body scanner is an important new technology that will impact the design and production of apparel, but use of this tool is at an early stage of development. Appropriate measurement extractions from the complex 3D scans that will address the needs of apparel patternmakers are an essential part of the development process for this new tool. The paper aims to address these developments.
Design/methodology/approach
In this study, a method of automatically locating the side seam for torso fitting garments from 3D body scans for a variety of body types was developed and tested. The method is based on the location of center points of body depth measurements, and five different body landmarks or combinations of body landmarks were tested to determine the best choice for implementation.
Findings
Based on rankings and ratings of the results by apparel experts, a method using the average value of body depth measurements taken at about 100 locations equally spaced from the axilla to the crotch was chosen as the best solution.
Research limitations/implications
Additional testing of this method and development of a method for locating the side seam for lower body garments is the next step in this research.
Originality/value
Identifying appropriate landmarks and body measurement extraction processes for apparel or style‐based measurements is as important as the more commonly derived anthropometric measures based on body landmarks. Landmarks such as side‐seam placement pose unique challenges that must be solved with analysis and reconstruction of style‐based data. The paper provides information on these factors.
The use of body scanning technology in sizing and fit research in developing countries is in many cases not practical considering its cost and technologies involved. The purpose of this study was to identify and describe the distinctive body shapes of Kenyan women without the use of body scanners. The units of analysis were urban women between the ages of 25 and 55 from Kenya. Due to a lack of a body scanner, traditional anthropometrical techniques for obtaining body dimensions and digital photography were used as an alternative method. A trained panel and the IGRAFX Designer 5 software were used for the visual analysis of the photos. The rectangular body shape was the most distinct body shape emerging from both the dimensions and evaluations of the photographs, with the triangle body shape as the second most distinct shape, but there are distinct differences between the Kenyan and American rectangular body shapes.
By using the 3D scan data, the ease relations between a standard body and a specific style of garment with various sizes are studied. The normal distance instead of the radial distance between the body surface and the garment section curves is used in calculating the ease relation between body and garment. The ease distribution is analyzed the curves of different cross sections of the body and the garment along with the changes of the body angles. This research is useful in a further investigating the fitness of the garments to human body, and it provides a test standard in the D simulation of fashion design. It can also be used in garment industry such as the air gap calculation for the fireproof clothing in firefighting industry.
Apparel consumers today have difficulties finding clothes that provide appropriate fit. In large part, this can be attributed to the outdated sizing standards based on decades-old anthropometric data used by apparel firms to create patterns. This study determines the inadequacies of ASTM sizing standards at meeting the needs of consumers in three target groups, segmented by age: Juniors, Missy, and Over55. Using Body Shape Analysis Software (FFIT for Apparel©), SizeUSA data and ASTM measurement data were analyzed for each of the three age groups. Resulting graphs allowed for comparison between the body shapes that predominate in each age group (based on SizeUSA samples) and the body shapes that are accommodated best by the ASTM standards. Results and implications of these comparisons are included in the article.
Abstract A study was conducted in the Nairobi, Eldoret and Kisumu regions of Kenya with the objective to determine and describe the role that Kenyan female consumers' sizing and fit knowledge play in the problems that they experience when selecting apparel. The study was cross-sectional and 201 female teachers between the ages 25 and 55 years were involved. Participants completed a questionnaire and were measured wearing body suits. Results revealed that most Kenyan female consumers frequently experience problems in getting the right size apparel items, while more than 90% of the consumers are also unsatisfied with the fit of their clothes. It was clear that most Kenyan female consumers are familiar with the non-informative lettered and numbered size labels as well as with the size label terms that represent established body types. However, the consumers lack knowledge of the meanings of various size label descriptions used on labels of ready-made apparel and also lack knowledge of their own key body dimensions. They are also confused as to where the cause of their problems lies and therefore blame their bodies as well as the apparel industry for their problems. The importance of knowledge in consumers' selection of apparel that would fit their specific proportions should not be underestimated. Industry should take notice that it is of no use to present consumers with size label information that is not clear, informative and understandable, as currently the case with the use of non-informative lettered and numbered size codes.
Due to the variety and complexity of body figures, it is difficult for people to find the right-size made-to-measure garments. In this article, a framework for intelligent optimal selection method of garment sizes based on Immune Algorithm (IA) and Analytic Hierarchy Process (AHP) is presented. Its implementation process is also described in details. To demonstrate its feasibility, we provide an example of selecting the best fit for men's top. The result shows that IAAHP-based method for intelligent optimal size selection outperforms both traditional experience-based judging and AHP methods. The proposed method is suitable for cases where people cannot identify the right garment size by try-on, especially during real-time applications such as online clothing sales. It has widespread application prospect regarding multi-channel development for apparel industry.
ResearchGate has not been able to resolve any references for this publication.