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The Rise of the Gourmet Hamburger
Abstract
Sociologist Mark Caldwell delves into the cultural dimensions of omnivorousness by exploring the rise of “gourmet hamburgers” across the United States. He shows that space, authenticity and exoticism are important aspects of hamburger consumption.
... While highbrow-lowbrow cross-overs have previously been explored in food discourses (Johnston and Baumann, 2010), new trends in wine consumption (Fitzmaurice, 2017) and hipster food culture (Halawa and Parasecoli, 2019;Ocejo, 2017), very few studies have analysed the gourmetfication of junk food. This literature argues that gourmet burgers and gourmet junk food are becoming major trends (Caldwell, 2014) and should be understood as part of a more general casualization of fine dining (Pearlman, 2013). This study is the first to explore this phenomenon from a consumer perspective. ...
... The burger, iconic junk food, is synonymous with highly processed food, unwholesomeness, and low culinary standards, but its culinary capital has risen over the past decades (Caldwell, 2014) and consumers have met many new versions of the burger like mushroom burgers (Patinho et al., 2021). In his US-focused chronicle of the burger, Gonzales (2019) describes how the competition between the big fast-food chains primarily focuses on price, leading to an increasingly poorer quality of the product. ...
... Subsequently, American high-end restaurants also started serving gourmet burgers (Caldwell, 2014). While the fast-food burger could be described as a low-status product in Johnston and Bauman's terms, as it was both inauthentic (mass-produced and standardized) and unexotic (available everywhere) (Caldwell, 2014, p. 74), the burgers served in gourmet restaurants needed to disrupt this image to be legitimate. ...
Purpose
This article explores consumers' attitudes to the trend of gourmet burgers, notably the gourmet burgers' combination of highbrow food (gourmet) and lowbrow food (fast food). The authors use the case of the NOMA cheeseburger from the iconic New Nordic restaurant NOMA.
Design/methodology/approach
The data set consists of interviews ( n = 20) with urban Danish consumers attending the NOMA burger pop-up.
Findings
The analysis highlights an acceptance among informants of “gourmetfied” burgers. This signals a change in the culinary status of burgers in Danish food culture. The authors also discovered some ambivalence in relation to the highbrow-lowbrow negotiations: while all informants celebrate the casualization of NOMA during the burger pop-up, half of the informants found the burger underwhelming: it did not live up to the edginess of the NOMA brand.
Practical implications
The authors believe this research can inform people working with culinary highbrow-lowbrow mix in their food designs, notably in relation to developing and matching the relation between symbolic and material aspects of the food design.
Originality/value
The authors argue that the concept of transgression can help us theorize how consumers accept, refuse, and negotiate boundaries in relation to gourmet burgers, and more generally between food consumption mixing highbrow and lowbrow elements. More particularly, the authors propose to distinguish between symbolic, social, and material transgressions. This perspective might also be interesting for practitioners in the field.
... Como señalaba recientemente para la televisión regional una cocinera de un restaurante de la ciudad de Mérida, mientras cocinaba su famosa receta de «Cigarritos de patatera»: «Nosotros queremos darles una vuelta a nuestros ingredientes de siempre y convertirlos en algo innovador». Con esta frase se está apuntando hacia la idea de identidad ligada a la innovación: la patatera también se está comenzando a utilizar como producto que ayuda a elevar el status de otros platos que cada vez ocupan un espacio más protagónico dentro del espacio gourmet, como es el caso de las hamburguesas (Caldwell, 2014 Bourdieu (1988) señala que todo sistema alimentario es un campo de relaciones sociales, de poder y de sentidos que se construyen históricamente por la relación de distintos agentes que luchan por mantener o transformar ese campo. Sus tesis sobre distinción y gusto basadas en los conceptos de campo social y habitus, definiendo un escenario en el que la construcción de las preferencias alimentarias estaba integrada en una conciencia individual o colectiva (Bourdie, 1979) son un lugar tan común como vigente. ...
... Como señalaba recientemente para la televisión regional una cocinera de un restaurante de la ciudad de Mérida, mientras cocinaba su famosa receta de «Cigarritos de patatera»: «Nosotros queremos darles una vuelta a nuestros ingredientes de siempre y convertirlos en algo innovador». Con esta frase se está apuntando hacia la idea de identidad ligada a la innovación: la patatera también se está comenzando a utilizar como producto que ayuda a elevar el status de otros platos que cada vez ocupan un espacio más protagónico dentro del espacio gourmet, como es el caso de las hamburguesas (Caldwell, 2014 Bourdieu (1988) señala que todo sistema alimentario es un campo de relaciones sociales, de poder y de sentidos que se construyen históricamente por la relación de distintos agentes que luchan por mantener o transformar ese campo. Sus tesis sobre distinción y gusto basadas en los conceptos de campo social y habitus, definiendo un escenario en el que la construcción de las preferencias alimentarias estaba integrada en una conciencia individual o colectiva (Bourdie, 1979) son un lugar tan común como vigente. ...
... Como señalaba recientemente para la televisión regional una cocinera de un restaurante de la ciudad de Mérida, mientras cocinaba su famosa receta de «Cigarritos de patatera»: «Nosotros queremos darles una vuelta a nuestros ingredientes de siempre y convertirlos en algo innovador». Con esta frase se está apuntando hacia la idea de identidad ligada a la innovación: la patatera también se está comenzando a utilizar como producto que ayuda a elevar el status de otros platos que cada vez ocupan un espacio más protagónico dentro del espacio gourmet, como es el caso de las hamburguesas (Caldwell, 2014 Bourdieu (1988) señala que todo sistema alimentario es un campo de relaciones sociales, de poder y de sentidos que se construyen históricamente por la relación de distintos agentes que luchan por mantener o transformar ese campo. Sus tesis sobre distinción y gusto basadas en los conceptos de campo social y habitus, definiendo un escenario en el que la construcción de las preferencias alimentarias estaba integrada en una conciencia individual o colectiva (Bourdie, 1979) son un lugar tan común como vigente. ...
... Como señalaba recientemente para la televisión regional una cocinera de un restaurante de la ciudad de Mérida, mientras cocinaba su famosa receta de «Cigarritos de patatera»: «Nosotros queremos darles una vuelta a nuestros ingredientes de siempre y convertirlos en algo innovador». Con esta frase se está apuntando hacia la idea de identidad ligada a la innovación: la patatera también se está comenzando a utilizar como producto que ayuda a elevar el status de otros platos que cada vez ocupan un espacio más protagónico dentro del espacio gourmet, como es el caso de las hamburguesas (Caldwell, 2014 Bourdieu (1988) señala que todo sistema alimentario es un campo de relaciones sociales, de poder y de sentidos que se construyen históricamente por la relación de distintos agentes que luchan por mantener o transformar ese campo. Sus tesis sobre distinción y gusto basadas en los conceptos de campo social y habitus, definiendo un escenario en el que la construcción de las preferencias alimentarias estaba integrada en una conciencia individual o colectiva (Bourdie, 1979) son un lugar tan común como vigente. ...
... The analysis of gourmetisation processes (Finn, 2017;Harris and Phillips, 2021) is generally focused on the changing status and increasing sophistication experienced by certain foods and dishes (Caldwell, 2014;Fukutomi, 2014;Harris and Phillips, 2021;Hernández Bermejo et al., 2019;Hirsch, 2011;Jordan, 2007;Thurnell-Read, 2018;Ulin, 1995;Villegas and Cervantes, 2011) and even entire culinary traditions (Ferguson, 2006;Fonseca, 2005;Luziatelli et al., 2020). At the same time, gourmetisation dynamics are also connected with the increasing popularity of cooking shows in mainstream media and the appreciable boom in so-called "foodies". ...
... The publication of a recipe book entirely focused on patatera as a star ingredient contributes to cementing its unique status and setting it apart from other matanza by-products. At the same time, its current elite status lends desirability and helps lift the status and appeal of other productssuch as burgerswithin the gourmet arena (Caldwell, 2014). An example of this phenomenon is Origen Bouquets House, a restaurant in the nearby city of Badajoz specialising in gourmet burgers. ...
... For example, by tracing the life of a single beef calf from its birthplace in a field to a burger joint, we can learn the food-system backstory of a person's hamburger habit. On a cultural level, hamburgers are considered a hallmark American institution; they exist in multiple formats, from cheap fast-food burgers to gourmet varieties, and are eaten weekly by almost half of Americans (Caldwell, 2014). The fat marbling, tender taste, and widespread availability of feedlot-fattened beef has suffused America's culinary imagination. ...
Our food choices have a tremendous impact on our minds, bodies, and the environment. Given this connection, many consumers are asking, how could we eat differently to ensure the integrity of the Earth’s natural systems? To address this question, the chapter first outlines how everyday food choices relate to the natural world, along with resource constraints in the food system. We then discuss the dominant ethical-eating discourse in Canada, the United States, and other Global North countries. After analyzing prominent themes in this consumer-centered ‘vote with your fork’ discourse, we consider the limitations of using market mechanisms to deliver goals like sustainability and social justice. This includes an acknowledgement of issues that often get overlooked within ethical consumer discourse, especially the minimal attention paid to low-wage, precarious workers on the front-lines of an unsustainable agricultural paradigm. The chapter ends with a brief discussion of food democracy, a concept that sheds light on fault lines in the current food system and offers principles for better meeting the needs of all forms of life.
... In Spain, it represents 24% of the total consumed meat and specifically, the consumption of hamburgers exceeds 3 million units per week (MAPAMA, 2018). According to Caldwell (2014) the rise in the consumption of this product is due to the emergence of large number of better burger chains, and the growing availability of gourmet hamburgers on menus of high-end restaurants. ...
The effect of adding different oregano formats (GO: ground; OEX: extract; OEO: essential oil; OLO: oleoresin) on quality of vacuum packaged lamb burgers, during 14 days, was evaluated by pH, colour (L*, a* and b*), lipid oxidation and microbial growth [Total Viable Count (TVC), Enterobacteriaceae, Pseudomonas spp. and Lactic acid bacteria (LAB)]. A control batch (without spice) was used. After 10 days of storage, there was a marked decrease of pH in all samples, OEX reached the lowest value. There was variation in L*, in OEX burgers (P < 0.001), on a* in OEX (P < 0.05) and in OEO ones (P < 0.001). At the end of essay, samples showed similar TVC and Pseudomonas spp. count, the lowest LAB count values were observed in OLO burgers (P < 0.001). GO OEO and OLO samples showed low rancidity, with values ranging from 0.12 to 0.25 mg MDA/kg meat raw.
... Ethical and environmentally friendly burgers communicate practices like: grass-fed beef, hormone-free beef, and steroid-free beef (M. Caldwell, 2014). Consumers are now demanding healthier products, nevertheless, they are expecting significant discounts and are valuing austerity on packaging and accessory services that are not essential for product quality (Angus & Westbrook, 2019;Lassen et al., 2016). ...
Hamburger is the spontaneous product image that comes to mind for a quick service restaurant. However, current consumer trends are reshaping the idea of fast-food including some gourmet food parameters. Consumers’ preferences are changing as they are aware of the product they are eating, quality and preconsumption practices. The methodology for this study consist of a 2 (fast/slow tempo) x 2 (sizzling sound/not) between group experimental design that takes place in Colombia (South-America). It evaluates the influence of sound (music and cooking) on the conceptual identity of a restaurant. Results show that the express concept increases with fast tempo music and the gourmet concept increases with cooking sound. Moreover, the sizzling sound lowers the perception of express for a hamburger restaurant. Findings demonstrate the importance of taking care of ambient sounds, designing or controlling them, aiming for consistency with the brand concept.
... However, the theory of cultural omnivorousness points out that with social change, today's high-status people are not averse to engaging in low-status cultural activities (Peterson and Simkus, 1992;Peterson and Kern, 1996). For example, an increasing number of highbrows are exploring more ethnic food and fast food, which had previously been constructed as low-status (Johnston and Baumann, 2007;Caldwell, 2014). The two competing theories indicate two different cultural tastes in foods: a distinctive and hierarchical taste versus an omnivorous and tolerant taste. ...
This study investigates tourists' cultural tastes in food by applying the sociological theory of cultural distinction and omnivorousness. The consumption of food by Chinese tourists in their travels across Spain is analyzed, with the fieldwork being conducted in Spain. Semi-structured interview was used to collect data about tourists' food tastes. The results show that distinctive and omnivorous tastes in food coexist, but differently across tourist groups. Snobbish tourists regarded exotic food as distinctive and legitimate, and undervalued familiar food. Omnivorous tourists held a more equal and inclusive attitude towards both exotic and familiar foods. The omnivorous tourists' openness to familiar food involved many utilitarian purposes. The research results have implications for future research on cultural tastes of tourist class, and destination marketing and management.
... Ethical and environmentally friendly burgers communicate practices like: grass-fed beef, hormone-free beef, and steroid-free beef (M. Caldwell, 2014). Consumers are now demanding healthier products, nevertheless, they are expecting significant discounts and are valuing austerity on packaging and accessory services that are not essential for product quality (Angus & Westbrook, 2019;Lassen et al., 2016). ...
Guava is known for its rough (astringent) appearance and texture; feature attached to its nutritional benefits but rejected from consumers’ point of view. This study deals with the rough property of guava juice through packaging expecting to influence its perceived density. Two studies were designed by manipulating (a) the location of the image on the bottle and (b) the surface texture of the bottle, controlling for transparency. Results confirm that it is possible to shift the perception of density in guava juice (a) locating the image of the fruit on the top (not the bottom) of the bottle and (b) using a smooth surface texture (not a rough) on an opaque bottle. Concerning practical implications, agribusinesses should enforce the use of sensory marketing strategies to sell the best of fruits and vegetables.
... More recently, consumers' increasing concerns over nutrition and health have focused attention on the patties itself: consumers are questioning the breed, origin, and diet and raising of the cattle from which their burgers are made. (Caldwell, 2014). ...
Consumers’ increasing concerns toward nutrition, health, and sustainable food have influence food industry. Practitioners in the meat product industry and retailers are focusing on premium labeled meat products, such as Certified Angus Beef and grass-fed beef, to meet consumers’ demand. Although many consumers assume the premium has better taste and texture, there is little research comparing the sensory attributes of the premium and non-premium burgers. This study compared the sensory attributes of three different hamburger patties: flame broiled pre-cooked beef (non-premium, standard patties), Angus beef, and grass-fed beef patties (premium patties). The results show that participants prefer pre-cooked hamburger patties significantly than Angus and grass-fed patties in initial taste and flavor. Also, this pre-cooked hamburger patties are significantly preferred compared to grass-fed patties in overall quality and overall liking attributes. Other sensory attributes, such as appearance, texture, juiciness, and seasoning, show no significant difference among three different patties. This indicates that the pre-cooked hamburger patties can be preferred than (or compatible to) Angus or grass-fed patties.
This article will try to discuss the inversion of a stereotype associated with a food product - mackerel (Scomber colias) - a fish whose consumption was connoted with popular and poverty contexts, and its revitalization that has taken place especially since 2011, concomitant with the worsening of the economic crisis in Portugal. This process of revitalization and resignification, initially put into practice by renowned Portuguese chefs, also entered the lexicon and practices of nutritionists who try to promote the idea of "healthy eating". Parallel to the economic crisis, another factor contributed to the revitalization of mackerel in Portugal: the imposition of fishing quotas on sardines, a fish recognized as a symbol of national food practices, associated with summer and its festivities. This brief analysis shows us how the process of gourmetisation of mackerel took place in a very specific context - an economic crisis in Portugal - a process that, as we will try to demonstrate, did not last over time.
In this article, we applied Wendy Griswold’s concepts of cultural objects and the cultural diamond to examine how a specific food—Southern style biscuits—underwent gourmetization. We provide evidence from observations of seven well-known gourmet biscuit restaurants, as well as a content analysis of their websites, Instagram accounts, and media coverage to understand how some establishments were able to position biscuits as a new gourmet food. We found that food producers combined upscale and exotic ingredients and recipes to create new ways of enjoying biscuits, as well as harnessed the power of social media to create excitement for their products. Simultaneously, the association of biscuits with the home and family recipes provided a form of cultural legitimacy and helped set these restaurants apart from fast food and its unhealthy, placeless reputation. Cultural tastemakers, including food writers and journalists, have aided in the rise of Modern Southern cuisine, which allows traditional Southern foods like biscuits to be viewed as higher in status. Customers, particularly those engaged in food-based tourism and those living in gentrifying areas have also helped encourage gourmetization through their willingness to pay higher prices and to embrace food as spectacle.
Apesar de o termo gourmet ser usual no campo da gastronomia, na área beverage and food management são escassos os estudos que investiguem esse fenômeno da culinária no comportamento do consumidor. Assim, o principal objetivo desse estudo é analisar o efeito da assinatura do Chef de cozinha em pratos com abordagens tradicional ou gourmet. Foram realizados dois experimentos com 257 consumidores no total. Os dados foram analisados por meio de técnicas descritivas e análise de variância. Os resultados indicaram que a assinatura do Chef de cozinha aumenta a intenção de compra do prato tradicional, mas não tem efeito sobre a percepção de qualidade. Já para o prato gourmet, ocorre de forma contrária, ou seja, aumenta a percepção de qualidade, mas não tem influencia sobre a intenção de compra do mesmo.
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