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Anthropometrical and Physiological Profile of Chinese Elite Sport Climbers

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Introduction: Significant ethnic differences exist in anthropometrical characteristics and body composition between normative Chinese and western populations. Elite climbers relative to age-matched general populations in Europe and North America are generally characterized smaller body size and a low percentage of body fat (%BF) compared to normative data. The variable of a positive arm span to height ratio (ie Ape Index) is often suggested to be advantageous for climbing performance, but has never been reported in Chinese climbers. Aim: To thoroughly examine anthropometrical and physiological characteristics of adult Chinese competition sport climbers, eleven male (30.2±6.3 yrs) and ten female (32.2±5.5 yrs) competition sport climbers from Hong Kong, China, were examined. The mean self-reported on-sight climbing ability was Fr.7a+ (6c to 7c+) and Fr.7a (6b to 7c) respectively. Methods: Anthropometrical characteristics examined were: height, mass, body mass index (BMI), %BF, Ape Index, biiliocristal and biacromial breadths. Physiological variables gathered were: resting heart rate and blood pressure, leg span, handgrip strength, bone mineral density and aerobic capacity. Selected variables were compared with age- and sex-matched Chinese population and western elite climbers previously reported. Conclusion: In comparison to national Chinese statistics, these Chinese climbers had a lower body mass, BMI, %BF, and resting heart rate; similar stature, handgrip strength and resting blood pressure; and a higher bone mineral density and aerobic capacity. Relative to studies on western elite climbers, the Chinese climbers had a smaller body size and lower aerobic capacity; while BMI, %BF, handgrip strength/body mass ratio, and leg span were similar. In addition, both genders possessed an Ape Index >1
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Medicina Sportiva
Med Sport 15 (1): 23-29, 2011
DOI: 10.2478/v10036-011-0007-z
Copyright © 2011 Medicina Sportiva
ORIGINAL RESEARCH
23
ANTHROPOMETRICAL AND PHYSIOLOGICAL PROFILE
OF CHINESE ELITE SPORT CLIMBERS
Wilson W. Cheung1(A,B,C,D,E,F), Tom K. Tong1(C,D,E), Audry B. Morrison2(D,E,F), Raymond W. Leung3(E), Yuk-Luen
Kwo k1(B,E), Shing Wu1(E)
1Department of Physical Education, Hong Kong Baptist University, Hong Kong, China
2Medical commission of Union Internationale des Associations dAlpinisme (UIAA), Bern, Switzerland
3Department of Physical Education and Exercise Science, Brooklyn College of the City University of New
York, Brooklyn NY, USA
Abstract
Introduction: Significant ethnic differences exist in anthropometrical characteristics and body composition between
normative Chinese and western populations. Elite climbers relative to age-matched general populations in Europe and North
America are generally characterized smaller body size and a low percentage of body fat (%BF) compared to normative
data. The variable of a positive arm span to height ratio (ie Ape Index) is often suggested to be advantageous for climbing
performance, but has never been reported in Chinese climbers.
Aim: To thoroughly examine anthropometrical and physiological characteristics of adult Chinese competition sport
climbers, eleven male (30.2±6.3 yrs) and ten female (32.2±5.5 yrs) competition sport climbers from Hong Kong, China,
were examined. The mean self-reported on-sight climbing ability was Fr.7a+ (6c to 7c+) and Fr.7a (6b to 7c) respectively.
Methods: Anthropometrical characteristics examined were: height, mass, body mass index (BMI), %BF, Ape Index,
biiliocristal and biacromial breadths. Physiological variables gathered were: resting heart rate and blood pressure, leg span,
handgrip strength, bone mineral density and aerobic capacity. Selected variables were compared with age- and sex-matched
Chinese population and western elite climbers previously reported.
Conclusion: In comparison to national Chinese statistics, these Chinese climbers had a lower body mass, BMI, %BF,
and resting heart rate; similar stature, handgrip strength and resting blood pressure; and a higher bone mineral density and
aerobic capacity. Relative to studies on western elite climbers, the Chinese climbers had a smaller body size and lower
aerobic capacity; while BMI, %BF, handgrip strength/body mass ratio, and leg span were similar. In addition, both genders
possessed an Ape Index >1.
Keywords: anthropometry, chinese, climbing, ape index, somatotyping, competition climbing
Introduction
Sport climbing participation has grown signifi-
cantly since the 1980’s as its popularity spread globally.
A wealth of scientific studies on climbers exists
and are primarily focused on climbing injuries, fol-
lowed by studies on the physiological responses dur-
ing climbing and anthropometrical data [1-7]. Such
studies are generally authored by Europeans or North
Americans, and report data mostly on adult male
climbers. There is a dearth of research specifically
on Chinese climbers of any ability level or gender.
Most climbers participate in a few types of climbing
styles. Goddard and Neumann [8] suggested that spe-
cific anthropometrical characteristics of rock climbers
are prerequisite to optimal performance, though these
were not clearly stated for each climbing subdiscipline.
More recent climbing studies suggest slightly differ-
ent anthropometrical variables for these styles [3-5];
and have found age, experience and height correlated
positively to elite bouldering performance [4]. Also,
strength endurance correlates strongly with red point
performance in sport climbing [9]. Sheel [10] further
suggested that optimisation of bodily physiological
function including aerobic and anaerobic capacity may
be more, or at least equally, important when assessing
performance variables for competition sport climbers,
including anthropometric characteristics.
In 1989, first annual international world cup climb-
ing competition was held in China. The event sparked
national interest in the sport that then resulted in many
new climbing walls being erected throughout China to
meet the growing demand of novice and competition
climbers. As climbing was a new competition sport to
China, sport science analysis of variables needed by
Chinese climbers to improve performance was desir-
able. It is known that there are significant ethnic dif-
ferences in anthropometrical characteristics and body
composition between Chinese and western popula-
tions. Chinese tend to be smaller in body size and have
less body fat compared to their western counterparts.
The well-described specific physical and physiological
characteristics of western climbers, which provided
directional information for the attainment of a high
standard of the sport, may not be an appropriate refer-
ence for Chinese climbers. Moreover, these variables
may have changed for all climbers since the 1980’s
as climbing grades have increased, and competition
routes have changed.
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Cheung W.W., Tong T.K., Morrison A.B., Leung R.W., Kwok Y-L., Wu S. / Medicina Sportiva 15 (1): 23-29, 2011
Materials and methods
The purpose of this study was to evaluate the an-
thropometric and physiological characteristics of elite
Chinese male and female sport climbers in order to
provide evidence-based references for competition climb-
ing. Anthropometrical characteristics examined were:
height, mass, body mass index (BMI), percentage body
fat (%BF), arm span, biiliocristal and biacromial breadths.
Physiological variables included resting heart rate and
blood pressure, leg span, handgrip strength, bone min-
eral density and aerobic capacity. Selected variables were
compared with age- and sex-matched norms of Chinese
population published in the Report of National Physical
Fitness Surveillance (RNPFS) [11] and in previous study
of Wong et al. [12]. Selected previous data of western elite
climbers were also used as references.
Participants
Eleven adult male and ten female climbers in Hong
Kong, China, who had trained for a mean period of
9.7±2.9 years and 10.5±4.7 years respectively, volun-
teered to participate in this study. They all performed
at a national competition level. Their physical char-
acteristics are stated in Table 1. The self-reported pre-
season climbing training volume of male participants
was recorded as 3.6±3.5 hr·d-1 and 3.6±2.1 d·wk-1, and
the females trained 3.6±2.5 hr·d-1 and 3.2±1.1 d·wk-1.
The respective ranges of self-reported on-sight and
redpoint climbing ability of the male participants were
Fr.6c to 7c+ (mean = 7a+) and Fr.7b to 8c (mean = 8a),
and Fr.6b to 7c (mean = 7a) and Fr.6c+ to 8a+ (mean =
7c) for the females. Informed written consent was ob-
tained from all participants. The study protocols were
performed in accordance with the 1961 Declaration of
Helsinki and were approved by the Committee on the
Use of Human and Animal Subjects in Teaching and
Research of Hong Kong Baptist University.
Measurements
Anthropometrical and physiological assessments
were performed in controlled laboratory conditions
with a temperature of 22oC and relative humidity of
70%. The participants were requested to refrain from
eating at least two hours prior to testing, and from
participation in strenuous physical activity for at least
one day before physical testing. All anthropometrical
measurements were performed in compliance with
established procedures and were taken by the same
investigator. Standing height was measured to the
nearest 0.5 cm with the participant barefoot and with
their back against a wall-mounted stadiometer. Body
weight was measured to the nearest 0.1 kg using a
TANITA electronic BIA scale (TBF410, Tokyo, Japan).
Arm span was measured in a standing position against
a wall with the arms abducted horizontally at the
height of the shoulders. The distance measured by an
anthropometric tape to the nearest 0.5 cm was from
the tip of one middle finger to that of another [13].
Ape index was defined as the ratio of arm span to body
height [14]. Leg span was determined with the climber,
who was laid flat in a supine position, with the two feet
placed as far apart as possible while the knees remained
straight. The distance between the medial calcaneus
of both legs was measured to the nearest 0.5 cm [15].
Biiliocristal breadth was the distance between the most
lateral points on the iliac tubercles. Biacromial breadth
was the distance between the most lateral points on the
acromion processes. The two breadths were measured
in a standing position with arms relax at both sides.
Lafayette anthropometer was used to measure to the
nearest 2 mm [16].
Skinfold thickness was measured using Harpenden
Skinfold Caliper (Lafayette Instrument, US) to the
nearest 0.2 mm. The four sites measured on the right
side of the participant were triceps, biceps, subscapular
and iliac crest according to Durnin and Womersley
[17]. The average value of three trials was then applied
to the body density (Db) prediction equations [17]
which were age and gender specific. The estimation
of %BF from the predicted body density was accord-
ing to the equation of %BF = (4.97/Db)-4.52 for male
participants and %BF= (4.76/Db)-4.28 for female
participants [18].
Calcaneal bone mineral density (BMD) was
measured using the LUNAR Achilles-plus Solo bone
Densitometer (WI, US), according to the manufac-
tures protocol. Both a Z-score and a T-score were
determined for each measurement [19], and compared
to age and gender specific normative values. A low Z-
score indicated an etiology other than age-related bone
loss. The T-score was used to compare the BMD of the
participant with the mean value for young adults of
the same gender and race; it is used for the diagnosis
of low bone mass or osteoporosis.
Grip strength was measured using an adjustable
handgrip dynamometer (Takei Scientific Instruments,
Japan), with the subject standing, elbow flexed to 90°,
and upper arm in a vertical position. Participant was
given three trials for maximum isometric grip strength.
The highest reading to the nearest 0.5 kg was the result.
Resting heart rate and blood pressure were mea-
sured by an arm-type oscillometric TM-2655 device
(A&D Company Ltd, Tokyo, Japan) after sitting on a
chair quietly for at least five minutes. Aerobic fitness
was assessed using Astrand-Ryhming 6-min sub-
maximal cycle ergometer test. The testing protocol was
described previously [20]. All tests were performed
on a Monark cycle ergometer (828E, Sweden). Heart
rates were monitored using Polar heart rate monitor
(S625, Polar Electro, Finland). The predicted ¦O2max
was determined using Astrand and Ryhming (1954)
protocol [21].
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Cheung W.W., Tong T.K., Morrison A.B., Leung R.W., Kwok Y-L., Wu S. / Medicina Sportiva 15 (1): 23-29, 2011
Table 2. Anthropometric characteristics of the Chinese male and female climbers
Male climbers (n=11) Female climbers (n=10)
Arm span (cm) 181.1±8.0 (170 – 195) 166.5±11.7 (152 – 196)
Ape index 1.05±0.03 (0.99 – 1.08) 1.05±0.06 (1.00 – 1.22)
Biiliocristal breadth (cm) 26.5±1.1 (24.8 – 28.2) 26.2±1.7 (24.0 – 28.6)
Biacromial breadth (cm) 35.1±1.9 (32.2 – 38.6) 29.1±1.7 (26.4 – 31.8)
Biiliocristal / biacromial ratio 0.76±0.03 (0.71 – 0.80) 0.90±0.04 (0.84 – 0.96)
Leg span (cm) 142 ±11 (118 – 161) 135 ±13 (107 – 148)
Values are Mean± SD (Range)
Table 3. Physiological characteristics of the Chinese male and female climbers
Male climbers
(n=11) Norms Female climbers
(n=10) Norms
Resting heart rate (b
min-1)
67.4±9.4
(49 – 77)
78 b*
(n=10,278)
69.6±7.5
(56 – 83)
78*
(n= 10,387)
Resting blood pressure
(mmHg) Systolic 120.3±21.3
(105 – 137)
118*
(n=10,251)
107.5±12.3
(92 – 126)
106*
(n=10,345)
Diastolic 70.6±9.8
(59-87)
78*
(n=10,246)
64.8±8.4
(53 – 77)
70*
(n=10,342)
Handgrip strength (kg) Right 48.1±9.5
(35.0 – 68.0)
47.6*
(n=10,314)
23.4±4.1
(17.0 – 31.0)
28.1*
(n=10,420)
Left 46.3±8.6
(37.0 – 61.0)
24.1±5.3
(16.0 – 34.0)
Handgrip strength / body
mass ratio
0.81±0.17
(0.63 – 1.19)
0.49±0.09
(0.35 – 0.59)
Bone mineral density T-score 0.1±1.25
(-1.80 – 2.50)
1.7±2.21
(-0.90 – 5.60)
Z-score 0.7±1.19
(-1.80 – 2.90)
2.1±2.23
(-0.50 – 6.10)
¦O2max (ml·kg-1·min-1)44.1±3.8
(38.9 – 50.4)
38.4±7.3 ^
(n=47)
37.1±6.5
(27.5 – 49.4)
27.3±5.1^
(n=47)
Values are Mean±SD (Range)*Median value reported in the RNPFS, 2007 [11]^Mean value reported in the study of Wong et al. [12]
Table 1. Physical characteristics of the Chinese male and female climbers
Male climbers
(n=11) Norms Female climbers
(n=10) Norms
Age (years) 30.2±6.3
(21.0 – 40.0)
32.2±5.5
(25.0 – 41.0)
Weight (kg) 58.4±5.6
(50.6 – 70.2)
66.7*
(n=10,313)
48.7±3.5
(43.2 – 55.5)
53.9*
(n= 10,421)
Height (cm) 172.7±6.2
(162 – 181)
169.3*
(n=10,316)
158.6±4.6
(147.5 – 163.5)
157.8*
(n=10,422)
Body mass index
(BMI)
19.6±0.9
(17.7 – 21.4)
23.3*
(n=10,313)
19.4±1.0
(18.3 – 20.8)
21.6*
(n= 10,421)
Percent body fat (%) 11.0±3.2
(5.8 – 17.2)
20.0%±7.3 ^
(n=47)
27.3±3.4
(22.9 – 33.5)
25.5%±6.0^
(n=47)
Values are Mean±SD (Range)* Median value reported in the RNPFS, 2007 [11]^ Mean value reported in the study of Wong et al. [12]
26
Cheung W.W., Tong T.K., Morrison A.B., Leung R.W., Kwok Y-L., Wu S. / Medicina Sportiva 15 (1): 23-29, 2011
Data analysis
Standard descriptive statistics (means, standard de-
viation, range) were used to present the characteristics
of the participants for all variables. The descriptive
statistics for male and female participants were re-
ported separately. After the data were tested to fulfil the
criteria of normal distribution, One sample t-test was
applied to examine the difference in selected variables
between the mean values of the present study and: (i)
that of the age group of 30-39 yrs from the local Chi-
nese population [12] and; (ii) the median values of the
age group of 30-35 yrs of Chinese population published
in the RNPFS [11]. All tests for statistical significance
were standardized at an alpha level of P<0.05.
Results
Physical characteristics of the Chinese male and
female climbers are shown in Table 1. It was noted that
the body height of the male and female climbers were
close to the median values in the RNPFS while their
body weight and body mass index were lower than the
corresponding median values. In comparison to the
%BF of local population, the value of the male climb-
ers was lower (P<0.05) while the difference in female
climbers was not significant (P >0.05).
Table 2 shows the anthropometric characteristics
of the Chinese climbers. Selected physiological data
of the climbers are in Table 3. In comparison to the
median values of resting heart rate in the RNPFS,
lower values were found in both the male and female
climbers. Systolic blood pressure of the male and fe-
male climbers were close to the median values while
diastolic pressure were lower than median values with
statistical significant difference found in the male
climbers. For the handgrip strength, the values of the
male and female climbers were close to and lower
than the corresponding median values, respectively.
In comparison to the ¦O2max of local population,
the values of both the male and female climbers were
higher (P<0.05).
Discussion
Western elite adult sport climbers are gener-
ally characterized by a small stature and low BMI
compared to normative values [1,3,13,22]. Similar
characteristics were found in Chinese climbers as
well. According to the norms of corresponding age
groups in the RNPFS [11], the body height and weight
of both male and female climbers in the present study
were at the 75th and 25th percentile, respectively. The
BMIs of male and female climbers were at 10th and 25th
percentile, respectively, and were close to the category
of under-weight. The lower body weight and BMI of
the climbers maybe partly attributed to the lower fat
content in body. In comparison to the corresponding
age groups of the local population [12], %BF was lower
in the Chinese male climbers. The attribution of low
fat content of the climbers was further supported by
lean skinfold meansurements of the triceps and sub-
scapular of both male and female climbers with which
the skinfold thicknesses were only at 25th percentile
of related norms in RNPFS [11]. These findings were
in agreement with previous notion that western elite
climbers were characterized by small body size and
low %BF [1,3]. However a lean body mass alone will
not improve any climbing performance and is no
substitute for an appropriate programme of sport
specific training and diet. Eating disorders and an-
orexia are reported among elite climbers [5]; such
excessive leanness may additionally have possible
implications in the fairness of competition as found
in similar lean sports [23], and obviously on health.
There are currently no weight or BMI restrictions in
climbing competitions internationally though this is
being reviewed by the UIAA [Schöffl 2010, personal
communication].
Comparing the physical characteristics of the Chi-
nese climbers with those of western climbers reported
previously in corresponding age groups, the body
weight and height were less in both the Chinese male
and female climbers while the difference in BMI, ap-
proximately 20, and %BF were not apparent [1]. Watts
[24] further suggested that taller climbers may benefit
from an obvious advantage in being able to reach hand-
holds more readily than shorter climbers. However, he
also suggested these taller climbers would likely weigh
more and the longer moment in their arms would drive
their torsos centre of gravity relatively far from the wall
thereby creating biomechanical disadvantages during
climbing. Michailov et al. [4] discovered that taller
climbers had disadvantage in a bouldering world cup
held in 2007 probably due to the competition routes’
properties. However, this theory has not been tested
and competition walls have changed over the decades
and may favour slightly different body types.
Amongst the climbing community, it is believed
that a positive Ape Index is an advantageous variable
for climbing performance, though such evidence is
seldom reported [5]. Giles et al. [2] suggested that a
positive Ape Index (arm span / body height) greater
than 1 was usually found in elite western climbers
and this facilitated an obvious reach advantage during
climbing activity. This view was further endorsed by
Magiera and Ryguła [25]. Rimoin et al. [26] reported
that black people tended to have longer limbs com-
pared with Asians, and that Asians with a short stature
tended to have arm span less than their body height
[27]. However, the Ape Index of Chinese elite climbers
had never been reported. In this study, the Ape Index
of both male and female participants was greater than
1, suggesting this is an advantageous variable in elite
competition climbing.
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Cheung W.W., Tong T.K., Morrison A.B., Leung R.W., Kwok Y-L., Wu S. / Medicina Sportiva 15 (1): 23-29, 2011
Climber’s back” is a term used to describe an in-
wardly placed shoulder girdle hump that results from
an increased thoracic kyphosis and lumbar lordosis,
and shortened pectoralis muscles. This postural adap-
tation was strongly correlated to male elite climbers
who climbed > UIAA grade 10 [28], and it may also
contribute to a finding of a positive Ape index. In
the present study, we observed several cases of this
postural adaptation in males. The attribution of Ape
Index of > 1 to the postural adaptation from the climb-
ing training in Chinese climbers awaits further study.
Watts [14] found that biiliocristal/biacromial ratio
in young climbers (n=90 aged 13.5±3.0 years) was
generally higher compared to both normative and ath-
letic controls (0.86 vs 0.74) and the climbers also had
a narrower biacromial breadth relative to biiliocristal
breadth. The narrow shoulder structure in combina-
tion with an enhanced Ape Index inferred the longer
absolute arm length (ie longer ‘levers’) in the climbers
compared to controls. This ectomorph somatotype
finding combined with long arms may have implica-
tions for reaching distance that is more important than
variable of Ape Index alone for elite performance. To
our knowledge, the biiliocristal/biacromial ratio of
elite adult climbers has not been reported. Successful
adolescent athletes aged 12 to 18 years normally ex-
hibit a similar somatotype to sport specific adult elites
[5]. Therefore, the data on our Chinese climbers was
respectively compared with those of Watts [14]; the
biiliocristal/biacromial ratio of the Chinese climbers
appeared to be lower in the male (0.76 vs 0.87) and
similar in female (0.9 vs 0.86) while the Ape index of
both male and female Chinese climbers (Male: 1.05
vs 1.02, Female: 1.05 vs 1.01) tended to be higher. It is
possible the differences in the biiliocristal/biacromial
ratio and Ape Index between the two studies could be
attributable to the discrepancies in maturity level and/
or in ethnicity of climbers. Nevertheless, the Chinese
elite climbers possessed an enhanced Ape Index,
and this is very likely a favourable variable for elite
performance of climbing [25] especially as Asians
with a short stature tend to have arm span less than
their body height [27]. However, the anthropometric
characteristic of climbers and physiological responses
under condition is different in each study [5,7].
Climbers must transfer and support their body
mass during complex horizontal and vertical move-
ments primarily by their fingertip grip strength,
engagement of the upper limb muscle groups, and
forces exerted through lower extremities. The variable
of a repeatedly high hand/fingertip strength to fatigue
(notably isometric strength, especially when support-
ing ones body mass) is a key performance variable in
climbing [29,30]. However, elite climbers in previ-
ous reports did not show significant higher absolute
handgrip strength in comparison to the sex- and age-
matched population norms, but they possessed higher
handgrip strength relative to body weight [22,31].
Similar characteristics in handgrip strength were also
observed in the present study. By comparing with the
norms in RNPFS [11], male and female climbers were
at 75th and 25th percentile, respectively. Moreover, the
handgrip strength of both gender in Chinese appeared
to be lower than those reported in western elite climb-
ers (Male: >50 kg, Female: >32 kg) [2,30]. However,
when the handgrip strength was expressed relative to
body weight, the ratio in the Chinese male and female
climbers appeared to be similar to that of their west-
ern counterparts (Male: 0.79, Female: 0.49) [2,13,30].
Such findings indicated that the low body mass of the
Chinese climbers may help compensate for their lower
handgrip muscular strength in comparison to those of
western climbers, in performing the movement against
body mass vertically during climbing.
Leg span is a climbing-specific flexibility test. This
measures hip abduction which is essential for the
bridging movement performed in climbing [15]. In
comparison to the limited previous data, the leg span
of the Chinese male elite climbers (142±11 cm) was
similar to that of western with varied abilities climb-
ers (139±4 cm) [15]. Previous female data was not
available for comparison. All this data reflected the
better flexibility of Chinese climbers in hip abduction,
perhaps because Chinese may have proportionally
shorter legs compared to Western climbers and may
therefore share a similar leg span with them.
Regarding to the calcaneal bone mineral density
(BMD), the Z- and T-score in the present study dem-
onstrated the healthy BMD profiles of Chinese elite
climbers with marked higher scores found in the fe-
male climbers. A study using mice by Mori et al. [32]
indicated that voluntary climbing exercise increased
bone volume and transient osteogenic potential of
their bone marrow. Vicente-Rodriguez et al. [33]
also reported the effort of muscles development and
greater force would increase BMD. During climbing,
the body’s mass acts as the resistance that is lifted and
supported. The healthy profiles in BMD in the Chinese
climbers were in agreement with the previous studies
on climbers [1,3] and resistance-trained counterparts
[34]. It was suggested the mechanical stimulation to
the bones secondary to the intense muscular contrac-
tions enhanced osteogenesis.
In comparison to the norms in RNPFS [11], the
resting heart rate of both Chinese male and female
elite climbers was at 25th percentile. The systolic and
diastolic blood pressures of both genders were at the
75th and 50th percentile, respectively. The healthy rest-
ing heart rate and blood pressure profile of the Chinese
climbers was concomitant with higher ¦O2max in
comparison to that of local populations [12]. How-
ever, the predicted ¦O2max of the Chinese climbers
28
Cheung W.W., Tong T.K., Morrison A.B., Leung R.W., Kwok Y-L., Wu S. / Medicina Sportiva 15 (1): 23-29, 2011
were lower in comparison to that of western high-
level sports climbers reported recently (Male: 53.6±3.7
ml·kg-1·min-1; Female = 49.2±3.5 ml·kg-1·min-1) [1].
The lower values might be partly attributed to the var-
ied testing mode as a sub-maximal cycling exercise test
was used in the present study while the ¦O2max of the
western climbers were directly measured on a vertical
climbing ergometer, where arms and legs were actively
climbing until fatigue, and this testing increased in
velocity during a sport climbing specific test. This
latter test may have resulted in untypically high climb-
ing ¦O2max values. In normal case, the ¦O2max of
climbing (averaged 24.9-27.4 ml·kg-1·min-1) was lower
than cycling or running treadmill exercises (averaged
50.5-54.8 ml·kg-1·min-1) [35,36]. Nevertheless, meta-
bolic data on adults climbing non-stop ‘to climbing
fatigue’ averaged 32-37 ml·kg-1·min-1 suggesting the
Chinese climbers have a sufficient cardiovascular
fitness for climbing [29], and aerobic adaptations to
regular climbing training less.
In conclusion, Chinese elite sport climbers pre-
sented general anthropometric and physiological
characteristics similar to western elite climbers. This
included lower values for: body mass, body mass in-
dex, percent body fat, and resting heart rate; similar
stature, hand grip strength and resting blood pressure;
and higher bone mineral density and aerobic capac-
ity in comparison to the corresponding age group of
general population. Relative to western elite climbers,
the Chinese climbers were shorter in stature and pos-
sessed a lower aerobic capacity while BMI, %BF, ratio
of handgrip strength and body mass, and leg span
were similar. Similar to western counterparts, they also
possessed of the long-arm body figure with marked
high biiliocristal / biacromial ratio and Ape index of
> 1 found in female and in both genders, respectively.
Limitations
There is limited number of subjects and no an-
aerobic capacity was investigated due to limitation
of equipments in this study. Moreover, the relation-
ship between Ape Index and Biiliocristal/Biacromial
Breadths for climbing is worth for future investiga-
tions. Youth and female climbers are still seldom to be
explored in the field. Measurement and analysis the
case of “climber back” maybe determine the relation-
ship on climbing ability.
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Received: December 12, 2010
Accepted: February 28, 2011
Published: March 01, 2011
Address for correspondence:
Wilson W. Cheung
Dr. Stephen Hui Research Center for Physical Recreation and Wellness,
NAB110, L1, David C. Lam Bldg. Shaw Campus,
Hong Kong Baptist University,
Renfrew Rd.,
Kowloon Tong, Hong Kong, China
Tel: (852) 34117770
E-mail: cwywilson@gmail.com
Tong TK: tongkk@hkbu.edu.hk
Morrison AB : audrym@gmail.com
Leung RW: rleung brooklyn.cuny.edu
Yuk-Luen Kwok: 07014163@hkbu.edu.hk
Shing Wu: 09466932@hkbu.edu.hk
Authors’ contribution
A – Study Design
B – Data Collection
C – Statistical Analysis
D – Data Interpretation
E – Manuscript Preparation
F – Literature Search
G – Funds Collection
... This tendency is the main reason for more and more interest of researchers. The focus of researchers has been on speed climbing, bouldering, and lead climbing, which are the main types of climbing competition (4,7,9,16,18,28,29,(35)(36)(37). In 2006, bouldering was included into the structure of sport climbing by the decision of the International Federation of Sport Climbing. ...
... In most studies, the number of somatic variables analyzed by authors is relatively small compared with the number of motor ability tests. Among the most frequently determined somatic variables are body height and body mass (4,7,9,16,18,28,29,36,37), body fat mass (4,7,9,16,18,36,37), muscular mass (7,16,37), arm length (7,9,18), leg length (9,18), arm's reach (4,16,18), leg span (4,9), and shoulder width and pelvis width (4). The description of the lead climbers that Watts (36) compiled from a review of climbing studies presented them in relation to nonathletes as short individuals with low body fat percentage and lower body mass. ...
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Chapter
Method: Six climbers age 19 to 42, with experience of 3 to 27 years and self-reported red-point best achievement 8+ to 10-UIAA, have trained for 7 weeks, 3 times a week. The new method is represented by alternating in difficulty doing repetitions (8–10): of easy (20–30 hand moves) and “difficult” routes (15–20 moves) and breaks of 30–60 s (depending on the climbers’ self-confidence). The number of the sets was 2–3, with 20–30 min breaks in-between. Tests: In order to establish the climbers initial and final level of performance, a cycling ergometry and two climbing tests where made. Results: The mean maximum oxygen consumption estimated by cycling was 51.08 (ml/min/kg). No relation has been established between VO2 max and climbing performance in the two tests. The climbing tests registered improvement of 43% in the one-minute test and of 32% in the five-minute test. There have been statistically significant differences between the initial and final results. Conclusion: The new method develops the specific strength endurance. A further research is needed to compare the new method with other types of training.
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