Article

Quantitative analysis of virgin coconut oil in cream cosmetics preparations using fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy

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Abstract

Today, virgin coconut oil (VCO) is becoming valuable oil and is receiving an attractive topic for researchers because of its several biological activities. In cosmetics industry, VCO is excellent material which functions as a skin moisturizer and softener. Therefore, it is important to develop a quantitative analytical method offering a fast and reliable technique. Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy with sample handling technique of attenuated total reflectance (ATR) can be successfully used to analyze VCO quantitatively in cream cosmetic preparations. A multivariate analysis using calibration of partial least square (PLS) model revealed the good relationship between actual value and FTIR-predicted value of VCO with coefficient of determination (R2) of 0.998.

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... For example, in cosmetics, Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) which is known to be a type of MIR spectroscopic has been created for investigation of lard adulterated with palm oil in moisturizer 25 and in a blend with virgin coconut oil in superficial cream. 26 Thus, it becomes as one of an effective chemical analysis in cosmetic products. ...
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Background The use of cosmetic products is considered a necessity for beautification in our daily lives. Cosmetic products composed of natural oils or fats as a main ingredient for various beneficial properties. Fats and oils are composed of various type of fatty acids with different compositions. Hence, fatty acids profile can be an effective chemical fingerprint for authentication analysis of cosmetic products. Objective This systematic review aims to enlighten the current detection tools developing for fatty acids profile authentication analyses of cosmetic ingredients based on the effectiveness, halal status, safety, advantages and disadvantages of the methods. Methodology The data were extracted from the scientific literatures published between October 2015 and 2020 in the Web of Science, Scopus and Google Scholar databases, and analyzed with Preferred Reporting Items for Systematic Reviews and Meta-Analyses (PRISMA). Findings Based on the systemic literature reviews, essential oil, argan oil, mineral oil, vegetable oil, and jojoba oil were among the mostly studied ingredients in cosmetics. Furthermore, a combination of more than one analytical instrument was utilized to profile fatty acids while the determination of the origin of the fatty acids is under scrutiny. The portable mass spectrometer combined with a direct inlet membrane (DIM) probe seems to be the best tool in terms of time consumption, cost, requires no sample preparation with high efficiency. The current review showed that the best cosmetic base is when the oil is composed of high concentration of fatty acids such as linoleic, oleic, stearic acid, and palmitic acids with concentration range from 19.7 - 46.30%, which offers various beneficial properties to cosmetic products.
... The cream format is highly suitable for topical dermatological applications due to ease of administration, which helps improve patient compliance. Products containing VCO have been prepared using conventional emulsification methods that require exposure to elevated temperatures with high shear [13], or high concentration of surfactants [8]. These processes are known to hasten hydrolysis of VCO with potential loss of activity [14], and can disrupt skin barrier functions [15]. ...
... In 2009, Marina et al. had proven refined coconut oil has lower antioxidant activity than VCO [14]. Besides, VCO is an exceptional ingredient that could work as skin softener and moisturizer, which are very important in the cosmetics industry [15]. Kim et al. had shown that VCO contributes to protective barrier functions as the stratum corneum increased expression of cornified envelopes (CEs) components after application of the oil [16]. ...
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In this study, the Ficus deltoidea extract loaded nanostructured lipid carrier was prepared by using the melt emulsification homogenization method. Virgin coconut oil is used as liquid lipid, while glyceryl monostearate is the solid lipid. Particle size, zeta potential, entrapment efficiency, drug loading and morphology of the obtained nanostructured lipid carrier (NLC) were measured. The size of the nanostructured lipid carrier incorporated with Ficus deltoidea (FDNLC) is 158.0 ± 1.3 nm, with a polydispersity index of 0.15 ± 0.02. The zeta potential obtained is −42.3 ± 1.5 mV. The encapsulation efficiency and active ingredient loading capacity for FDNLC is 87.4% ± 1.3% and 8.5% ± 1.2%, respectively. The shape of FDNLC is almost spherical and the stability assessment showed that the obtained formulation is at least stable for 40 days. When compared with the positive controls, which are Trolox and ascorbic acid, FDNLC shows the highest antioxidant value. Cell proliferation activity study indicates that FDNLC is not toxic to cells, and FDNLC could potentially treat damage by ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation.
... Pada kosmetik, spektroskopi FTIR telah digunakan untuk penentuan minyak kelapa murni sebagai sistem pengemulsi pada formulasi krim. (Che Man et al., 2005;Syahariza et al., 2005;Rohman, Che Man and Sismindari, 2009;Che Man, Rohman and Mansor, 2011) Langkah-langkah analisis yang digunakan di setiap penelitian meliputi preparasi kosmetik menggunakan lemak babi sebagai salah satu komponen, ekstraksi lemak babi dari sampel kosmetik menggunakan metode ekstraksi seperti metode Soxhlet, Bligh, dan Dyer atau Folch, akuisisi spektrum FTIR, kalibrasi pengembangan, dan model validasi, evaluasi model, dan akhirnya analisis lemak babi dalam sampel (Rohman and Salamah, 2018). ...
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Peningkatan populasi muslim di dunia mengakibatkan adanya peningkatan terhadap konsumsi dan permintaan terhadap produk halal salah satunya adalah kosmetik. Kosmetik halal sudah bukan kata asing lagi bagi beberapa negara muslim, namun sayangnya masih banyak yang belum mengetahui definisi sebenarnya dari kosmetik halal. Masih banyak yang beranggapan produk kosmetik halal hanya yang mengandung babi dan alkohol saja. Review ini bertujuan untuk memberikan informasi mengenai kosmetik halal dan apa saja yang boleh terkandung di dalamnya serta analisis kimia yang digunakan untuk mendeteksi kandungan non halal dalam produk kosmetik.Kata kunci: Kosmetik halal, Kandungan non halal, Analisis kimia
... In cosmetics, FTIR spectroscopic method has been developed for analysis of lard in a mixture with virgin coconut oil in cosmetic cream 14 and in a mixture with palm oil in lotion 15 . However, to the best of our knowledge, the use of FTIR spectroscopic technique combined with certain chemometrics technique for the analysis of lard in lipstick has not been reported. ...
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Analysis of lard extracted from lipstick formulation containing castor oil has been performed using FTIR spectroscopic method combined with multivariate calibration. Three different extraction methods were compared, namely saponification method followed by liquid/liquid extraction with hexane/ dichlorometane/ethanol/water, saponification method followed by liquid/liquid extraction with dichloromethane/ethanol/water, and Bligh & Dyer method using chloroform/methanol/water as extracting solvent. Qualitative and quantitative analysis of lard were performed using principle component (PCA) and partial least square (PLS) analysis, respectively. The results showed that, in all samples prepared by the three extraction methods, PCA was capable of identifying lard at wavelength region of 1200-800 cm⁻¹ with the best result was obtained by Bligh & Dyer method. Furthermore, PLS analysis at the same wavelength region used for qualification showed that Bligh and Dyer was the most suitable extraction method with the highest determination coefficient (R²) and the lowest root mean square error of calibration (RMSEC) as well as root mean square error of prediction (RMSEP) values.
... The difference between actual VCO value and FTIR predicted VCO either in calibration or validation is low, with RMSEC value of 0.826%, indicating that FTIR method is accurate enough for VCO analysis. [43] EVOO in ternary mixture with VCO and palm oil is quantified using FTIR spectroscopy and multivariate calibration of PLS and PCR. Some optimization in terms of the type of multivariate calibration and FTIR spectral treatment was performed. ...
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Vegetable oils are major lipid sources with high nutritional and calorific values for human diet. Specifically, virgin coconut oil (VCO) and extra virgin olive oil (EVOO) are the functional oils widely used in food and pharmaceutical products, either as vehicles or main components. The quality of edible oils is determined by its contents and parameters inherent in vegetable oils. Infrared (IR) spectroscopy is an ideal technique for quantitative analysis of vegetable oils as well as for determination of oils parameters as the changes in IR spectra can be associated with the changes of oils parameters. IR spectra in complex samples are difficult to interpret, as a consequence, spectroscopist uses additional tools called with chemometrics to analyse edible oils qualitatively and quantitatively. This paper reviews the use of infrared spectroscopy combined with chemometrics (multivariate analysis) for quantitative analysis and determination of oil parameters of VCO and EVOO. Although IR spectra for edible oils are similar, they exhibit some differences which enable spectroscopist to differentiate due to the nature property of IR spectra as fingerprint spectra which can be understood that there are no different edible oils having the same IR spectra.
... In cosmetics analysis, our group have used FTIR spectroscopy in combination with certain chemometrics of multivariate calibration, principle component analysis and discriminant analysis for quantification, discrimination and classification of virgin coconut oil in cream [12], lard in binary mixture with virgin coconut oil in cream cosmetics [13] and lard in lotion cosmetics [14]. Based on the limitation of FTIR spectroscopy as mentioned earlier, and the fact that there is no previous research regarding the application of FTIR spectroscopy for analysis of lard in the binary mixture with EVOO, the present study was directed to apply FTIR spectroscopy coupled with multivariate calibration and principle component analysis for analysis of lard in the mixture with EVOO in cream cosmetics. ...
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The presence of lard (LD) in cosmetics products is a serious matter for certain religion, like Islam. The Muslim community is not allowed to use cosmetics products containing pig derivatives such as LD. Therefore, analysis of LD in cosmetics products is highly needed. The present study highlighted the employment of Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy in combination with chemometrics of multivariate calibration and principle component analysis (PCA) for quantitative analysis and classification of LD in the binary mixture with extra virgin olive oil (EVOO) as oil base in cream formulations for halal authentication. The lipid component in cream was extracted using liquid-liquid extraction using hexane as extracting solvent, and the lipid obtained was subjected to FTIR spectra measurement, using horizontal attenuated total reflectance as sampling technique. The result showed that FTIR spectroscopy in combination with partial least squares can be used to quantify the levels of LD in the mixture with EVOO in cosmetics creams using the combined frequency regions of 1785-702 cm-1 and 3020-2808 cm-1. PCA using absorbance intensities at 1200 - 1000 cm-1 as variables has been successfully used for the classification of cream with and without LD in the formulation. The developed method is rapid and not involving the excessive sample preparation.
... As a method of biopolymer analysis, FTIR has been widely used in the structural analysis of macromolecular compounds and protein secondary structure analysis, which is a powerful tool to obtain the molecular structure information [4] . As long as the quality and quantity of the chemical composition is relatively stable, and the samples are processed according to the standard requirement, its infrared spectrum is relatively stable [5] . ...
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Chapter
An advantage of factor analysis algorithms is that they tolerate interferents. It does not matter whether there are many species with bands overlapping those of the analytes. It does not even matter that one knows all the concentrations of all the species in the sample. As long as he/she knows the concentrations of the analytes in the standards, and the standards are truly representative of the unknowns to be analyzed, a factor analysis calibration is possible. Variations in interferent concentration are just another source of variance. The factors calculated can model this variance along with variations in analyte concentration. As long as the factors modeling the interferent and component concentrations are included in a calibration, analyte concentrations can be successfully predicted. Another advantage of factor analysis techniques is that they tolerate spectral artifacts. Examples of artifacts include baseline drift, slope, and curvature caused by changes in the spectrometer or sample. These artifacts are yet another source of variance, and can be modeled using factors. Again, including the factors describing this variance in the model helps reduce their impact on the accuracy of predicted concentrations. However, only artifacts that are stable and present in both the standards and the unknowns can be modeled. Artifacts absent from the standards will not be modeled.
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