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The Shampoo pH can Affect the Hair: Myth or Reality?
Abstract and Figures
Aim:
Dermatologists most frequently prescribe shampoos for the treatment of hair shed and scalp disorders. Prescription of hair care products is often focused on improving scalp hair density, whereas the over-the-counter products focus on hair damage prevention. Little is taught in medical schools about the hair cosmetics, so that the prescriptions are based only on the treatment of the scalp and usually disregards the hair fiber health.
Materials and Methods:
In this work, we review the current literature about the mode of action of a low-pH shampoo regarding the hair shaft's health and analyze the pH of 123 shampoos of international brands.
Results:
All shampoo pH values ranged from 3.5 to 9.0. 38.21% of all 123 shampoos presented a pH ≤ 5.5 (IC: 29.9–47%) and 61.78% presented a pH > 5.5. 26 anti-dandruff shampoos were analyzed. About 19.23% presented pH ≤ 5.5.(IC: 7.4–37.6%). 80.77% of all anti-dandruffs shampoos presented a pH > 5.5. The dermatological shampoo group (n = 19) presented 42.10% with pH ≤ 5.5 (IC: 21.8–64.6%), and 57.90% with pH > 5.5. Among the commercial (popular) products (n = 96), 34.37% presented pH ≤ 5.5 (IC: 25.4–44.3%) and 65.62% presented pH > 5.5. 15 professional products (used in hair salons) were analyzed, of which 75% had a pH ≤ 5.5 (IC: 18–65, 4%), and 25% had a pH > 5.5. 100% of the children's shampoos presented a pH > 5.5.
Conclusions:
Alkaline pH may increase the negative electrical charge of the hair fiber surface and, therefore, increase friction between the fibers. This may lead to cuticle damage and fiber breakage. It is a reality and not a myth that lower pH of shampoos may cause less frizzing for generating less negative static electricity on the fiber surface. Interestingly, only 38% of the popular brand shampoos against 75% of the salons shampoos presented a pH ≤ 5.0. Pediatric shampoos had the pH of 7.0 because of the “no-tear” concept. There is no standardized value for the final pH. The authors believe that it is important to reveal the pH value on the shampoo label, but studies are needed to establish the best pH range for both the scalp and the hair fiber's health.
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... The isoelectric point of hair is lower than the isoionic point of hair since there is a higher amount of acidic amino acid in the outermost cuticle layer compared to the whole hair (Robbins, 2012). The presence of 18-methyl eicosanoic acid (18-MEA), the fatty acid covalently bonded to hair, and the higher amount of cysteic acid on the surface of hair also contribute to the lower pH at the surface compared to the whole hair (Dias et al., 2014;Morel et al., 2008;Robbins, 2012). ...
... The same condition is applied in the cleansing effect of the shampoos (Barros, 2018). However, shampoo with the pH higher than the isoelectric point of hair can cause the negative charges to develop on the surface of hair, increasing the repulsion between the hairs and causing frizzy hair (Dias et al., 2014). To complicate the situation, the shampoo not only cleanses the hair but it also cleanses the scalp which has the pH value around 5.5, the same as the isoionic point of hair (Dias et al., 2014). ...
... However, shampoo with the pH higher than the isoelectric point of hair can cause the negative charges to develop on the surface of hair, increasing the repulsion between the hairs and causing frizzy hair (Dias et al., 2014). To complicate the situation, the shampoo not only cleanses the hair but it also cleanses the scalp which has the pH value around 5.5, the same as the isoionic point of hair (Dias et al., 2014). Therefore, in order to maintain a healthy scalp and hair, the pH of the shampoo should be kept around 5.5 (Dias et al., 2014). ...
Basic Brown 16 pigment and three types of surfactants were used to prepare the cationic, nonionic, and anionic basic hair dyes. White hair and bleached hair were dyed using the three basic hair dyes and were shampooed 10 times using acidic, neutral, and alkaline shampoos prepared in the study. White hair and bleached hair dyed with the anionic basic hair dye resulted in a lower L *, a *, b * values and lower K/S values compared to the hair dyed with the cationic and nonionic basic hair dyes and the results were statistically significant at α = 0.05. Hair dyed with the anionic basic hair dye showed significantly higher Δ L *, Δ a *, Δ b *, and Δ E * ab values after 10 times of shampooing than those dyed with cationic and nonionic basic hair dyes (α = 0.05), indicating a lower color resistance for the anionic basic hair dye. Color difference after shampooing was significantly higher when alkaline shampoo was used (α = 0.05). Overall, the color difference after shampooing occurred more by the type of dye than by the type of shampoo.
... Los residuos son grasas no solubles en agua (sebo). Para ser eliminados del tallo del cabello, al lavarlo, la grasa se adhiere a la parte hidrofóbica del surfactante y, al enjuagarlo, la repulsión de las cargas permite limpiar el cabello (34) . El champú de enjuague (con surfactante) aumenta la negatividad del cabello, lo que causa el llamado efecto frizz (32) . ...
... Hay muchos factores que influyen en la estética final del cabello después de usar champús, como la concentración y la calidad de los surfactantes, la adición de agentes antiestáticos, los lubricantes y el pH final del producto (34) . El pH del cuero cabelludo es 5,5 y el pH de la fibra capilar es 3,67. ...
... El pH alcalino puede aumentar la carga eléctrica negativa en la superficie de la fibra capilar y, por lo tanto, aumentar la fricción entre las fibras. Un estudio brasileño de 2014 evaluó 123 champús comerciales y encontró un pH menor de 5,5 en el 38 % de la muestra y un pH mayor de 5,5 en el 62 % de los productos (34,37,38) . ...
Introducción: es importante que los dermatólogos conozcan las prácticas capilares culturales que favorecen la inflamación, acumulación de residuos y principales alteraciones que afectan el cuero cabelludo afroamericano.Metodología: se llevó a cabo una revisión sistemática utilizando las principales bases de datos médicas teniendo como objetivo las publicaciones sobre el cabello afroamericano, sus particularidades y cosméticos capilares.Resultados: conocer las características anatómicas y moleculares propias del pelo de origen africano ayuda a elegir productos ideales para su manejo adecuado. Las prácticas que provocan su rotura incluyen el alisado, los agentes químicos, entre otros. El champú elimina el sebo y los residuos; sin embargo, su contenido de surfactantes puede provocar alteración cosmética en el cabello crespo. Técnicas modernas para su cuidado y limpieza se han desarrollado para favorecer la sensación cosmética.Conclusiones: la evaluación clínica además del conocimiento cultural de las rutinas capilares son herramientas fundamentales para mejorar la salud y los cuidados del cabello en esta población.
... In addition to the components in shampoos, the pH of shampoos also plays a very important role in the charge generation on hair fibers. Alkaline pH has been observed to increase the negative charge density [82] of the hair fiber, which could lead to cuticle damage, especially at pH values higher than 5.5. Cationic ingredients should be added to shampoos if their pH value is above 3.67 [82]. ...
... Alkaline pH has been observed to increase the negative charge density [82] of the hair fiber, which could lead to cuticle damage, especially at pH values higher than 5.5. Cationic ingredients should be added to shampoos if their pH value is above 3.67 [82]. Another way to reduce the electrostatic charge on hair is to apply conditioners. ...
... Another way to reduce the electrostatic charge on hair is to apply conditioners. For example, if a shampoo of pH higher than 5.5 has been used, then a low-pH conditioner should be applied to reduce static charge generation [82]. The use of conditioners can reduce friction among hair fibers. ...
Triboelectrification (contact electrification) as a physical phenomenon appeared for the first time in a dialogue by Plato around 400 B.C. The phenomenon described in the dialogue is about amber that people wear attracting dry hair. The description also indicated that triboelectrification was first discovered on the human body. However, the studies that have been carried out on triboelectrification were mostly based on other materials, such as polymers, rather than on the human body. The invention of triboelectric nanogenerators (TENGs) has recently opened a door for both fundamental and applied research and brought triboelectrification into real applications. The human body's triboelectricity, as a vital part of studies, has also attracted much interest in the past ten years. Research and review articles were published during this period. However, few articles included the biological fundamentals of the triboelectrification of the human body. Moreover, most of the review articles missed two important parts: the electrostatic discharge (ESD) of the human body, which has been widely studied in electronics, and the cosmetics that reduce the triboelectrification of hair. A systematic review including the fundamentals and the applications could help readers understand the human body's triboelectricity. Given this, we proposed this review article on the human body's triboelectricity. The paper will cover a brief history and a brief mechanism summary of triboelectrification; the epidermis structure of the human hair and skin, including how the chemicals on the epidermal layer contribute to the skin's triboelectricity; fundamental studies of the human body's triboelectricity; and applications that utilize the human body's triboelectricity. Perspectives for future studies and conclusions will be given at the end of the review.
... Masukkan pH meter ke dalam cairan sampel tersebut dan amati nilai pH nya. Persyaratan pH kulit kepala yang baik yaitu 4,5-6,5 (Dias et al., 2014). ...
Biji pepaya (Carica papaya L.) mengandung senyawa triterpenoid yang dapat dimanfaatkan sebagai sediaan kondisioner. Kondisioner merupakan salah satu sediaan kosmetik yang dapat melindungi rambut setelah keramas sehingga rambut terlihat lebih lembut dan berkilau. Penelitian ini bertujuan untuk mengetahui kandungan senyawa metabolit sekunder pada biji pepaya dan dapat melakukan pembuatan sediaan kondisioner dari biji pepaya (Carica papaya L.) sebagai salah satu upaya dalam pemanfaatan limbah biji pepaya. Penelitian dilakukan secara eksperimental dengan menggunakan zat aktif berupa ekstrak biji pepaya. Penelitian ini meliputi proses pembuatan simplisia, uji kadar abu, uji kadar sari larut etanol, pembuatan ekstrak, skrining fitokimia, pembuatan dan evalusiasi sediaan kondisioner. Hasil uji skrining fitokimia menunjukkan bahwa biji pepaya mengandung senyawa alkaloid, flavonoid, tanin, saponin dan triterpenoid. Kesimpulan dari penelitian ini yaitu membuktikan bahwa limbah biji pepaya dapat dimanfaatkan sebagai sediaan kondisioner dan memenuhi persyaratan uji mutu sediaan, yaitu memiliki warna coklat muda hingga coklat kehitaman, bau khas biji pepaya, kental dan lembut, homogen, memiliki rentang pH 5,23–6,5 dengan nilai viskositas 2497 mPa’s atau 2497 Cp, dan memiliki tipe krim minyak dalam air (M/A).
... Curcumin, an active compound in turmeric, is seen to reduce hair growth (19). As well, baking soda, with its high pH of nine, can potentially reduce hair growth and cause breakage in the hair follicles (20). The sugar, lemon, and honey mixture is shown to exploit the hair follicle, which is confirmed by our experiment showing that this mixture reduced hair growth (21). ...
We are looking into natural ways to help hair grow better and stronger by studying keratin synthesis in human hair follicles. The reason for conducting this research was to have the ability to control hair growth through future innovations. We wanted to answer the question: How can we find natural ways to enhance hair growth by understanding the connection with natural resources, particularly keratin dynamics? The main focus of this experiment is understanding the promotion of keratin synthesis within human hair follicles, which is important for hair development and health. While keratin is essential for the growth and strength of body tissues, including skin and hair, our research hints at its specific synthesis within hair follicles. In our research utilizing castor oil, coconut oil, a turmeric and baking soda mixture, and a sugar, honey, and lemon mixture, we hypothesize that oils, specifically coconut oil and castor oil, will enhance keratin synthesis, whereas mixtures, such as the turmeric and baking soda mixture and the sugar, honey, and lemon mixture, will result in a decrease keratin synthesis. The methods used show how different natural substances influence keratin formation within the hair follicles. The experiment involved applying natural resources to hair strands and follicles, measuring their length under the microscope daily, and assessing their health and characteristics over seven days. In summary, our research helps us understand how hair grows better. We found that using natural items like essential oils effectively alters keratin growth within the hair follicles and hair strands.
... It is a wellestablished fact that lower pH in shampoos can contribute to reduced frizz by minimizing negative static electricity on the fiber surface. However, it is imperative that the shampoo ingredients collectively result in a final pH of around 5.5 to prevent any damage to the scalp [21]. On the other hand, AlQuadeib B. et al. suggest that the acceptable pH range for hair shampoo should be 5.0-7.0 [22]. ...
Amidst a growing shift towards eco-friendly choices in personal care products, the challenge of formulating herbal shampoos with efficacy comparable to synthetic counterparts persists. This study investigates the potential of incorporating patchouli extract and allantoin as additives in anti-dandruff shampoo formulations, assessing their impact on the technological properties of the product. With limited research on their efficacy, our investigation contributes valuable insights to the development of effective and consumer-friendly shampoos targeting dandruff concerns. Physicochemical characteristics (pH, surface tension, texture) were evaluated, alongside specific quality assessments such as wetting time, dirt dispersion, foaming, and cleaning action, in in vivo consumer research. Shampoo formulations incorporating 0.5% Patchoul’Up™ and 1% allantoin exhibited acceptable properties. However, the addition of plant-derived ingredients resulted in a beneficial decrease in surface tension (5.87%). Nevertheless, a decrease in cohesiveness (18%) over a 5-month period resulted in rheological changes, indicating potential instability (p < 0.05). While the consumer evaluation aligns with laboratory findings, continuous research is essential to ensure stability and validate the anti-dandruff potential of the formulation, both in vitro and in vivo. This involves expanding the number of volunteers, with a specific focus on individuals experiencing dandruff concerns, to assess the shampoo’s efficacy and impact on diverse user experiences.
... O pH dos fios de cabelo é em torno de 3,67, ou seja, valores de pH de produtos capilares próximos a esse número possuem uma menor probabilidade de aumentar a carga negativa. Ainda, um pH acima de 5,50, que é o pH do couro cabeludo, pode danificar a pele (16)(17). Também existe a recomendação do pH não ser muito ácido (abaixo de 2,0), considerando que valores assim podem levar a danos capilares, configurando um produto corrosivo (18). ...
O formaldeído é um composto químico muito utilizado em produtos de alisamento capilar. Há diversos casos relatados de problemas de saúde em decorrência do uso desse produto. A Anvisa (Agência Nacional de Vigilância Sanitária) estabeleceu um teor máximo de 0,2% de formaldeído em produtos capilares apenas com a função de conservante, mas o limite frequentemente é extrapolado. Nesse trabalho foram realizadas análises qualitativas, semiquantitativas e quantitativas para formaldeído em amostras de alisamento capilar recolhidas em um salão de beleza da Zona Norte de Porto Alegre, RS. As amostras foram submetidas ao reagente de Schiff para análise qualitativa e semiquantitativa. O surgimento de uma cor rosada indicou presença de formaldeído. As análises quantitativas das amostras foram realizadas por titulação de retorno. Todas as amostras testaram positivo para presença de aldeídos; a análise semiquantitativa revelou teor acima de 0,5% (m/m) para todas as amostras. A análise quantitativa indicou teores entre 2,24-9,61% (m/m). Os resultados encontrados neste trabalho foram corroborados pelos valores encontrados na literatura. Os valores encontrados excedem os limites estipulados pela Anvisa para produtos capilares, o que pode levar a diversos problemas de saúde, inclusive morte.
... Özellikle ph değeri 5.5'ten büyük şampuanlar saçlı deride iritan kontakt dermatite sebep olabilmektedir. 8 Bunun dışında allerjik kontakt dermatit, burun ve göz mukozasına temas sonrası iritasyon, nadiren deterjan içeriğinin iç organlarda birikimi sonrası toksik yan etkiler izlenebilmektedir. 13,14 Allerjik kontakt dermatit özellikle şampuan içerisindeki koruyucu ajanlara bağlı (paraben, formaldehit, kuaternium-15, hekzaklorofen gibi) gelişmektedir. ...
... Dermatologists must suggest shampoos that minimize the risk of frizz and interfiber friction augmentation. 7 Shampoo is the most prevalent form of hair cleanser. 8 Shampoos are not only scalp cleaners but also act on the hair shaft. ...
Background: Hair damage is a widespread problem that affects people of all ages, genders, and hair types. It can be caused by a variety of factors, such as heat styling, chemical treatments, environmental factors, and genetics. The effects of hair damage can range from minor split ends and frizz to severe breakage, thinning, and hair loss. Hair damage can also affect the texture and appearance of the hair, causing it to become dull, dry, and difficult to manage. Methods: In the present study 6 natural black hair tresses were selected to evaluate the sensorial parameters such as detangling, combability, static, shine, softness, smoothness, and bounce at baseline and post 10 wash cycles with Mintop Shampoo (fortified with Procapil 1% and Redensyl 1%). Results: After 10 wash cycles with Mintop Shampoo, the mean score for detangling 3.33 (0.516), combability 4.00 (0.516), Static (Frizz) 3.67 (0.516), Shine 3.00 (0.000), Softness 3.00 (0.632), Smoothness 3.33 (0.516), Bounce 3.33 (0.516), maximum GF 99.17 (0.516) and Strain 44.24 (5.235). Conclusions: The study findings demonstrated that a significant improvement was observed in sensorial parameters such as detangling, combability, static (reduction), shine, softness, smoothness, bounce, tensile strength, and percentage elongation when compared to baseline or initial damaged state.
... It is observable in Figure 4 that all the solid shampoos decreased the surface tension of water below 40 mN·m −1 . The pH value of the scalp is around 5.5 and shampoos with a slightly acidic pH value are said to be gentler on the hair since the electrical charges are balanced, which seals the cuticles [43]. It is possible to observe in Figure 4 that the pH value was stable throughout the study and below 7 for all time periods, suggesting that the solid shampoo is gentle on the hair. ...
The excessive use of water and plastic packaging in the cosmetic industry imposes the need to develop sustainable alternatives. Moreover, agricultural by-products are reported in the literature to be rich in bioactive properties, namely high antioxidant capacity, suggesting their potential use in cosmetic formulations as substitutes for commercial additives. The aim of this work was the development of a sustainable formulation of solid shampoo, incorporating extracts from mango peel as antioxidants. The characterization of the extracts revealed the presence of several phenolic compounds and a strong antioxidant capacity. Six formulations of solid shampoo were produced by varying the quantity of the additives: tocopherol and butylated hydroxytoluene, used as positive controls, and mango peel (MP) extract. The antioxidant capacity assays demonstrated that the MP extract increased the antioxidant activity of the shampoos, in comparison to the positive controls and the stability tests revealed that the MP extract is a stable ingredient. Hence, it was concluded that the MP extract is a strong source of antioxidants with the potential to replace commercial antioxidants in cosmetics. Thus, it was possible to develop a value-added formulation of solid shampoo, eliminating the use of water and plastic for the packaging, and reusing waste from the food sector.
Keywords: solid shampoo; mango peel; phenolic compounds; antioxidant; sustainability
... Hair shampoos may cause physical and mechanical damage to hair structure. Natural pH of human hair is in acidic range (Dias et al., 2014). Dias MF et.al reported that, anionic shampoo with sodium lauryl sulfate may increase electrical negative charges on hair surface and increase its frizz and friction (Dias, 2015). ...
... Its application in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries is mainly related to hemicelluloses in its composition, except for the sugars produced by hemicelluloses such as xylose, glucose and mannose 20 . Mucilages have a slightly acidic pH 21 , present in certain plant species in different parts of the plant (root, tubers, peel, inner of stems, leaves, flowers and seeds) used as refreshing, moisturizing and thickening agents. ...
The feasibility of the using of mucilages as viscous hydrocolloids in order to reduce dependence on inorganic products that are unfriendly to the environment, is a necessity that the scientific community must take advantage on behalf of development of new products. The aim was to determine the phytochemical components and thickening capacity of mucilage as a hydrocolloid in a shampoo formula. Phytochemical sieve was done by coloration, precipitation and flotation reactions. Mucilage extraction was performed by hydration-maceration of crushed stems according to experimental design (three factors and two levels) and controlled by the viscosity response variable. For the shampoo, a design of was used (two factors and two levels), evaluated with viscosity response variables and lather formation, results that were tabulated with the statistical software statgraphics plus. The results show in the hydrocolloid the presence of tannins, alkaloids, triterpenes. Its thickening capacity due to the significant viscosity of the hydrocolloid (1186 mPa.s). The viscosity of the shampoo between 1020 and 1460 mPa.s and the amount of foam (213 ml) that reward the quality. It is concluded that, the complex molecular structure and abundant presence of mucilage in its natural state in the stems of Malachra alceifolia Jacq allows the hydrocolloid obtained to have a great viscosifying and moisturizing capacity with an almost neutral pH, qualities that affect the quality of the shampoo and are suitable for commercial products with friendly features to the environment; being promoted as a raw material for formulations of other personal hygiene products with an important projection of immediate application in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry.
... However, more acidic solutions can cause the cuticle shrinking (the outer layer of hair), and lay flattered on the hair shaft [36]. On the other hand, basic shampoo solutions can cause cuticle swelling and opening, thus reducing the performance of the product in terms of compatibility, irritation, friction, and frizz effect [64]. ...
Shampoo prepares surfactants to remove dirt, surface grease, and skin debris from hair, shaft, and scalp without harming the user. This study aimed to formulate herbal shampoo using Ethiopian plant extracts and evaluate their quality parameters. Herbal shampoos were formulated using seed oil extracts of Lepidium sativum L. and Ricinus communis L., and essential oil extracts of Lippia adeonsis Hochst ex. Walp koseret, along with other ingredients. The formulated herbal shampoos were evaluated for their organoleptic and physicochemical properties such as pH, surface tension, viscosity, dirt dispersion, antimicrobial activities, and stability. When the investigation data were assessed, the formulations were pleasant and attractive, produced sufficient foam, and showed suitable cleansing activities. The pH values were in a range 5.90 ± 0.22–7.45 ± 0.19, and lower surface tension (23.39 ± 0.20–31.89 ± 1.04 dyne/cm) together with acceptable viscosity with good shearing properties were obtained. The formulated products exhibited good antimicrobial activities against Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus, and Aspergillus niger. When the surface morphologies of hair samples were examined using a scanning electron microscope (SEM), a clean and smooth surface was observed for treated samples, comparable to that of the marketed shampoo. This result indicated that the formulated herbal shampoo is good, having acceptable properties at par with commercially available shampoos. However, further investigation, research, and development are required to improve its quality and safety.
... De acordo com a legislação vigente, quando se trata de xampu de tratamento e aplicação em público infantil é classificado como grau de risco 2, o que exige comprovação de segurança e eficácia para haver a autorização sanitária para a comercialização. Ademais, por ser produto infantil, o pH final deve ser próximo ao pH lacrimal (aproximadamente 7,0) para evitar a irritabilidade ocular (Barbara et al., 2007;da Motta et al., 2007;Gomes, 2011;Chiroli et al., 2013;Dias et al., 2014;Brasil, 2018). ...
O objetivo do presente estudo foi desenvolver, caracterizar e quantificar micropartículas de poli(ԑ-caprolactona) contendo extrato de Ruta graveolens L. para posterior veiculação em um xampu infantil para o combate seguro da pediculose. O extrato hidroalcóolico foi obtido da planta seca através do método de turbólise. As micropartículas foram obtidas pelo método da emulsão simples seguida da evaporação do solvente modificando a proporção de extrato e polímero. Os sistemas poliméricos foram caracterizados por meio de estudos morfológicos e espectroscópicos. A eficiência de encapsulação foi verificada pelo método indireto de quantificação. Uma formulação de xampu infantil foi desenvolvida, verificando as características organolépticas e físico-químicas. As micropartículas poliméricas foram obtidas com sucesso pelo método escolhido e apresentaram um rendimento médio de 49,7% e eficiência de encapsulação acima de 82,26%. Os sistemas apresentaram formato esférico e borda lisa, tamanho médio entre 686,9 e 2973,6 nm, baixo índice de polidispersão e potencial zeta negativo. Os espectros de infravermelho demonstraram bandas distintas para os materiais isolados em comparação com as formulações de micropartículas. A formulação de xampu infantil desenvolvida apresentou coloração branca, fragrância e textura condizentes à formulação de xampu. A densidade encontrada foi de 1,0025 g/mL e viscosidade de 47,78 cP, enquanto o pH da formulação foi próximo ao pH lacrimal. Com isso, o presente estudo obteve com sucesso as micropartículas de PCL contendo o extrato de R. graveolens L. e desenvolveu de maneira eficaz uma formulação de xampu infantil para veicular as micropartículas como alternativa segura ao tratamento da pediculose.
... (3)(4)(5)(6) La piel es una barrera anatómica y fisiológica entre el cuerpo y el medio ambiente; protege del daño físico, químico y microbiológico. (7)(8)(9)(10) El pH de la piel influye en la permeabilidad de la barrera cutánea y en los procesos normales de queratinización. De acuerdo con Proksch, (11) el valor medio de pH en perros está entre 6 y 7, y varía según la zona del cuerpo. ...
El objetivo del trabajo fue realizar un análisis de descriptivo de la calidad del champú para uso en perros que se comercializa en la Ciudad de México. Hasta la fecha, se carece de información al respecto, lo cual es importante para facilitar la selección y recomendación de estos productos por profesio-nistas de la veterinaria. Se estudiaron productos de 20 marcas comerciales, a los cuales se les realizaron pruebas fisicoquímicas, sensoriales y de desem-peño, además de evaluar el contenido de sus etiquetas. El pH del champú varió entre 5.6 y 8.4; la viscosidad, entre 1 131 y 3 102 m Pa-s; la densidad relativa, entre 1.002 y 1.099 g/mL y el índice de espuma entre 2.9 y 4 min. El 95 % de los champús formaron espuma cerrada, mientras que entre el 10 y el 35 % de las marcas presentaron deficiencias en el etiquetado. En general , las propiedades físico-químicas y sensoriales de las marcas de champú bajo estudio se encuentran dentro de los límites aceptables para la línea de uso en humanos. No obstante, la falta de consistencia en el etiquetado sugiere que es necesario mejorar la supervisión de la normatividad aplicable para proteger la salud animal y pública. Palabras clave: champú veterinario; control de calidad; evaluación sensorial; evaluación del desempeño; etiqueta. Evaluación de la calidad en champú comercial no medicado para perros en la Ciudad de México
... However, in "no-tears" shampoos, the pH should be neutral (pH~7.0) [57]. The standard pH of shampoos may depend on their application. ...
Coronavirus disease (COVID-19) cases are continuing to rise around the world, with more than 607 million confirmed cases and more than 6.51 million deaths as of September 2022. The World Health Organization (WHO) has emphasized the importance of hygiene in the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic, especially in elderly and bedridden patients. The use of no-rinse shampoo represents a simple change in hair-cleansing products. Daily hospital hair washing for the elderly, bedridden, and ICU patients would be more readily adopted. The objective of this study was to design and optimize a new no-rinse shampoo based on electrochemically reduced water (ERW) using response surface methodology. The relationship between coconut-based surfactant mixtures in a no-rinse shampoo and the resulting physicochemical properties, effectiveness (antibacterial and antifungal activity), and stability of the shampoo was investigated. The vesicle size, size distribution, zeta potential, conductivity, pH, foamability, wetting time, turbidity, and stability of the model formulation were optimized. The optimal formulation with the appropriate physicochemical properties and stability was selected. The effectiveness of the optimal formulation was compared to that of commercially available products. The dry shampoo (DS4) containing 3.5% of the mixed detergent with ERW may prevent infection by Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus epidermidis, Staphylococcus aureus, and Candida albicans. The no-rinse shampoo based on ERW successfully demonstrated good stability in addition to efficacy in terms of antibacterial and antifungal activity. The treated hair fiber was not significantly different from that of the intact hair fiber. Under the scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and the atomic force microscopy (AFM), the cuticle layer of the treated hair fiber was not damaged. Thus, no-rinse shampoos may reduce the time of hair rinsing and improve the quality of life of caregivers.
... The positively charged particles made, for example, by the chitin nanofibrils may create electrostatic interactions with the negatively charged elements of the skin's interstitial matrix, such as collagen and glycosaminoglycans, as well as may have a specific role in hair cellÀcell interactions and adhesion. Moreover, hair scalp at 5.5 pH, hair shaft at pH around 3.67 [18], and the cortex fibers are all characterized by a surface covered by negative charges. Thisis the reason why cosmetic products, characterized by positively charged ingredients, are used to treat scalp and hair, especially when damaged by environmental aggressions, excessive combing, or chemical treatments, which increase the formation of negatively charged surfaces. ...
... Sediaan yang memiliki pH basa dapat meningkatkan muatan listrik negatif dari permukaan serat rambut sehingga dapat meningkatkan gesekan antar serat. Kondisi ini dapat menyebabkan kerusakan kutikula dan serat rambut (Dias et al., 2014). ...
Umbi bawang putih (Allium sativum L.) diketahui mengandung senyawa allicin, flavonoid dan saponin yang memiliki aktivitas sebagai insektisida alami. Berdasarkan penelitian sebelumnya ekstrak umbi bawang putih dengan konsentrasi 8% memiliki waktu bunuh paling efektif terhadap kutu rambut, yaitu dalam waktu 0,0630 jam. Penelitian ini bertujuan untuk memformulasikan ekstrak umbi bawang putih menjadi sediaan emulsi topikal yang berfungsi sebagai insektisida alami kutu rambut. Metode yang digunakan untuk mengekstraksi simplisia umbi bawang putih adalah maserasi menggunakan pelarut etanol 70%. Formula dibuat dengan konsentrasi ekstrak bawang putih 8% (F1) dan 12% (F2). Emulsi yang dihasilkan berwarna coklat muda (F1) dan coklat (F2) berbentuk cairan kental, memiliki bau khas umbi bawang putih. Emulsi F1 dan F2 menunjukkan susunan yang homogen, mempunyai nilai pH 7,4 (F1) dan pH 6,9 (F2). Emulsi topikal juga mempunyai daya lekat 71,67 detik (F1) dan 84,33 detik (F2), mempunyai daya sebar sebesar 6 cm (F1) dan 5,7 cm (F2). Emulsi topikal mempunyai viskositas sebesar 130,1 cP (F1) dan 152,2(F2) cP. Formula F1 dan F2 memenuhi persyaratan organoleptis, uji homogenitas, uji pH, uji tipe emulsi, uji daya lekat, uji daya sebar dan viskositas sediaan emulsi.
... A conditioner of low-pH neutralizes electric charge, reduce the frizz effect and close cuticular cells. 10 A high pH shampoo, will have a positive effect in oily and thin hair, as it can add volume to the hair post shampoo because of the increase in static electricity. However, a pH higher than 5.5 may cause irritation of the scalp. ...
p>Modern shampoos are much more than just cleansing agents. With rising demands for new milder and ‘greener’ products, the developments in the field of shampoo and conditioners are moving at a faster pace than ever before. Soaps were initially used to clean scalp but are not recommended for hair cleansing because they leave behind a soap scum when mixed with hard water that is difficult to rinse from the hair and scalp. There are different types of shampoos. Besides “normal” cleaning shampoo, there are “specific” shampoos that have additional ingredients targeting some hair problems. Dermatologists most frequently prescribe shampoos but little is taught in medical schools about the hair cosmetics. Most of the prescriptions are based only on the treatment of the scalp and usually disregards the hair fibre health. Hence it is imperative for dermatologists to known about the mechanism of shampoos, different surfactants and where to choose which shampoo.</p
... The FBLEs promoted cell proliferation and prolonged anagen, indicated by an increase in the HG rate (Figures 3,4). Researchers have reported that a minor acidic pH is essential for healthy HG (Dias et al., 2014); pH results in the range between 4 and 8 for FBLE1-3 favor the study. ...
The screening of hair follicles, dermal papilla cells, and keratinocytes through in vitro, in vivo, and histology has previously been reported to combat alopecia. Ficus benghalensis has been used conventionally to cure skin and hair disorders, although its effect on 5α-reductase II is still unknown. Currently, we aim to analyze the phytotherapeutic impact of F. benghalensis leaf extracts (FBLEs) for promoting hair growth in rabbits along with in vitro inhibition of the steroid isozyme 5α-reductase II. The inhibition of 5α-reductase II by FBLEs was assessed by RP-HPLC, using the NADPH cofactor as the reaction initiator and Minoxin (5%) as a positive control. In silico studies were performed using AutoDock Vina to visualize the interaction between 5α-reductase II and the reported phytoconstituents present in FBLEs. Hair growth in female albino rabbits was investigated by applying an oral dose of the FBLE formulation and control drug to the skin once a day. The skin tissues were examined by histology to see hair follicles. Further, FAAS, FTIR, and antioxidants were performed to check the trace elements and secondary metabolites in the FBLEs. The results of RP-HPLC and the binding energies showed that FBLEs reduced the catalytic activity of 5α-reductase II and improved cell proliferation in rabbits. The statistical analysis (p < 0.05 or 0.01) and percentage inhibition (>70%) suggested that hydroalcoholic FBLE has more potential in increasing hair growth by elongating hair follicle’s anagen phase. FAAS, FTIR, and antioxidant experiments revealed sufficient concentrations of Zn, Cu, K, and Fe, together with the presence of polyphenols and scavenging activity in FBLE. Overall, we found that FBLEs are potent in stimulating hair follicle maturation by reducing the 5α-reductase II action, so they may serve as a principal choice in de novo drug designing to treat hair loss.
... Hair products can be categorized into two main categories on the basis of the duration of the treatment effect: (i) temporary products, such as shampoos, conditioners, sprays, and temporary dyes, and (ii) permanent products, such as permanent waves, relaxers, bleaches, and permanent dyes. In general, the repeated and systematic exposure to potentially harmful molecules contained in hair products can have negative outcomes [306][307][308][309][310]. An innovation in hair care products could be the use of NPs. ...
Calcium phosphates (CaPs) belong to a class of biomimetic materials widely employed for medical applications thanks to their excellent properties, such as biodegradability, biocompatibility and osteoinductivity. The recent trend in the cosmetics field of substituting potentially hazardous materials with natural, safe, and sustainable ingredients for the health of consumers and for the environment, as well as the progress in the materials science of academics and chemical industries, has opened new perspectives in the use of CaPs in this field. While several reviews have been focused on the applications of CaP-based materials in medicine, this is the first attempt to catalogue the properties and use of CaPs in cosmetics. In this review a brief introduction on the chemical and physical characteristics of the main CaP phases is given, followed by an up-to-date report of their use in cosmetics through a large literature survey of research papers and patents. The application of CaPs as agents in oral care, skin care, hair care, and odor control has been selected and extensively discussed, highlighting the correlation between the chemical, physical and toxicological properties of the materials with their final applications. Finally, perspectives on the main challenges that should be addressed by the scientific community and cosmetics companies to widen the application of CaPs in cosmetics are given.
... Thus a slightly acidic pH is favourable [21]. Furthermore, the slightly acidic pH of shampoos increases the hair's quality, decreases eye irritation, and maintains the ecological balance of the scalp [22]. ...
Background
Dandruff is a common scalp condition affecting half of the population of the world.
Objective
The current study aimed at developing anti-dandruff shampoos containing tea tree oil, which is believed to be effective against Malassezia furfur, a fungus involved in dandruff production.
Methodology
Various shampoos containing tea tree oil in 0.5 to 3% concentration were prepared after careful selection of various shampoo ingredients. The formulated shampoos were subjected to various quality tests such as pH, viscosity, foam production, dirt dispersion, wetting time, surface tension, solid contents, and antimicrobial activity against a model fungal strain, namely Candida albicans. The formulated shampoos were also compared with the marketed shampoos for quality attributes.
Results
The results revealed that tea tree oil shampoos had pH values in the range of 5 – 6, which is close to the slightly acidic skin’s pH and considered as good for hair. All other quality attributes were comparable to the marketed products. The marketed shampoos had superior antifungal activity due to the presence of zinc pyrithione or a higher concentration of salicylic acid or selenium sulfide. Notwithstanding, the tea tree oil shampoos demonstrated an appreciable antifungal activity due to synergistic effects of tea tree oil, sodium lauryl sulphate, and salicylic acid. Furthermore, the tea tree oil shampoos were stable during two months-long stability testing.
Conclusion
Thus, tea tree oil anti-dandruff shampoos have the potential to address the dandruff problem.
... Exposing the skin to commercial cleansing products (whose pH values are typically between 6 and 8.5) results in the skin pH increasing up to 6 h after application (Lambers et al., 2006). Although the pH value of the scalp (like the rest of the skin) is around 5.5 (Gavazzoni Dias et al., 2014), the Mx released from LyzMBs at pH 7.4 reached the plateau after 6 h in the present study. Therefore, the natural pH value of the scalp did not affect the amount of Mx released from LyzMBs within 6 h. ...
Lysozyme (Lyz) is an antimicrobial peptide, a safe adjunct, and it has been indicated that Lyz can promote vibrissae follicle growth by enhancing the hair-inductive capacity of dermal papilla cells in mice. The present study produced a new type of minoxidil (Mx)-coated antifungal Lyz-shelled microbubble (LyzMB) for inhibiting bacteria and allergies on the oily scalp. The potential of Mx-coated LyzMBs (Mx-LyzMBs) combined with ultrasound (US) and the role of LyzMB fragments in enhancing hair follicle growth were investigated. Mx grafted with LyzMBs were synthesized and the loading efficiency of Mx on cationic LyzMBs was 20.3%. The biological activity of Lyz in skin was determined using an activity assay kit and immunohistochemistry expression, and the activities in the US+Mx-LyzMBs group were 65.8 and 118.5 μU/mL at 6 and 18 h, respectively. In hair follicle cell culture experiments, the lengths of hair follicle cells were significantly enhanced in the US+Mx-LyzMBs group (108.2 ± 11.6 μm) compared to in the US+LyzMBs+Mx group (44.3 ± 9.8 μm) and the group with Mx alone (79.6 ± 12.0 μm) on day 2 (p < 0.001). During 21 days of treatment in animal experiments, the growth rates at days 10 and 14 in the US+Mx-LyzMBs group increased by 19.4 and 65.7%, respectively, and there were significant differences (p < 0.05) between the US+Mx-LyzMBs group and the other four groups. These findings indicate that 1-MHz US (applied at 3 W/cm², acoustic pressure = 0.266 MPa) for 1 min combined with Mx-LyzMBs can significantly increase more penetration of Mx and LyzMB fragments into skin and enhance hair growth than Mx alone.
... 7,8 As the hair fibre has a pH of 3.67 It is important that, besides the inclusion of antistatic agents in the conditioner formulas, the formula and ingredients must create a final pH no higher than 5.5 so not to damage the scalp. 9 Any product applied on hair that has pH higher than 3.67 causes an increase in the negativity of the electric network of the hair, that is, an increase of static electricity and the repulsion between strands. The fiber surface bears a net negative charge because of its low isoeletric point. ...
Hair Conditioner is one of the cosmetics which is widely used in daily life. In contemporary era, people preferring Ayurvedic cosmetics. Thus, in the present research, herbal active ingredients have been used in maximum possible proportion to enhance the properties of developed Ayurvedic conditioner. For development of Ayurvedic conditioner active part (conditioning agent) Nagakeshar, Musta, Ushira, Hareetaki selected from Kamaratnama and used in the form of decoction (60%). Other supporting ingredients like Aloevera juice (3%), Cucumber (2%), Olive oil (2%) selected due to their proved conditioning properties to increase the potency of formulation. To establish the idea conditioner was prepared as an emulsion. The formulation analysed on the basis of various organoleptic and physiochemical parameters like pH, viscosity, rancidity, total microbial count etc. Result showed that conditioner has the standard values needed for a good quality conditioner. It is concluded that formulation has all needed technical as well as aesthetic properties.
... After confirming the emulsion stability at the elevated pH, we investigated the hair-dyeing capability of argan oil-based and ylang-ylang oil-based emulsions, as representatives, after pH adjustment to 5.0. We used the emulsions that had the pH value of 5.0 because previous reports showed that the shampoo with pH of higher than 5.5 had negative effects on the hair and scalp [40]. In the immersion-based dyeing, the argan oiland ylang-ylang oil-based emulsions gave the L* values of 26.6 ± 4.1 and 28.4 ± 1.9, respectively (L* values of the intact hair samples: 77.3 ± 1.7 and 78.3 ± 1.5), but the L* values increased to 58.1 ± 1.5 and 58.6 ± 2.1 after shampooing, different from the results with the pH-unadjusted emulsions. ...
Inspired by the redox reactions in the preparation of the iron gall ink that has been used in Europe since the Middle Ages, we developed a technology for forming the oil-in-water emulsions, without any surfactants and emulsifiers, by homogenizing a mixture of tannic acid, gallic acid, Fe(D-gluconate)2, and natural oil, which are all approved as cosmetic ingredients. Various plant-derived oils, such as argan oil, olive oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, hemp seed oil, peppermint oil, rosemary oil, and ylang-ylang oil, were used as an oil phase for the emulsion formation, and all the fabricated emulsions exhibited the capability of black hair-dyeing. This surfactant-free emulsion technology for combining the hair-dyeing capability of Fe3+–tannin complex with the hair-fortifying property of natural oil would have great impact on the hair-cosmetic industry.
... The value of the special ingredients shampoos cannot be underscored as additional elements to enhance the action of the pharmaceutical topical or oral treatments by cleansing the scalp and contributing to a healthy scalp microbiome. The use of appropriate surfactants combined with ingredients, such as zinc pyrithione, ciclopirox, salicylic acid [43][44][45][46], copper chelating agents, such as N,N'-ethylene diamine disuccinic acid [47], and others, contribute to maintain Malassezia spp. and oxidative stress under control. ...
With today’s increasing life expectation and quality of life, the desire to look young and beautiful plays a bigger role than ever. Aging of the hair is particularly visible. And yet, cosmetic dermatology has paid comparatively little attention to the care of the aging hair. The professional market for cosmetic interventions into the face has preceded those into the hair for a number of reasons. First, the market for facial rejuvenation has been dominated by plastic surgeons, until the fillers and botulinum toxin were introduced. Second, investigative dermatology found a profound interest in the study of skin aging, particularly as it relates to ultraviolet exposure, and exposed mechanisms at the level of the DNA and repair mechanisms, opening venues for effective preventive measures and pharmacological treatments of aging-related conditions of the skin. Finally, at the level of health professionals, the care for the skin has been overrated in relation to the hair, mostly due to economic reasons. Nevertheless, the hair represents an integral part of the face and our appearance. Moreover, the discovery of pharmacological targets and the development of safe and effective drugs for treatment of hair loss indicate strategies of the drug industry for maintenance of hair growth and quantity, while the hair care industry has become capable of delivering active compounds directed toward meeting the consumer demand for maintenance of hair cosmesis and quality. To offer patients the best outcomes toward a more youthful look, we therefore should look at the whole face including the condition of the hair for a more comprehensive approach toward a total facial skin and hair care concept.
... In addition to surfactants, shampoos contain other components that make them more appealing regarding the preferences of consumers, such as viscosifiers, opacifiers, perfumes, complexing agents, colorants, conditioners, antioxidants, pH stabilizers, humectants, moisturizers and preservatives dispersed or dissolved in water [3,4,[6][7][8][9][10]. ...
Methylisothiazolinone (MI) is one of the most used preservatives in shampoos and also one of the most effective. A preservative mixture known as Kathon™ CG is commercially available. It contains 5-chloro-2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one (CMI) and 2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one (MI) (3:1) and stabilizers. The aim of this study is to evaluate the influence of formulation factors in the quantification and stability of isothiazolinones in shampoos. Two shampoo bases containing Kathon™ CG as a preservative were prepared. Some ingredients that are at risk of interfering with the preservative stability were added to these formulations. The preservative was quantified by HPLC-DAD (High-performance liquid chromatography with a diode-array detector) after preparation of the formulation and after storage at room temperature and at 40 °C. The addition of magnesium silicate proved to be essential for the breakdown of the interaction between the matrix and the analytes in the extraction procedure. The content of CMI/MI decreased right after preparation indicating that immediate interactions between CMI/MI and the ingredients may have occurred after preparation resulting in a decrease in the preservative concentration. Detrimental interactions between the ingredients, regarding the stability of the isothiazolinones were detected immediately after preparation and over time resulting in the reduction of CMI/MI concentration in these cosmetic shampoos.
... The higher pH level of shampoo the harsher the shampoo on human's hair. As previous study [26] shown that lower pH of shampoos may cause less frizzing for generating less negative static electricity on the fiber surface. From the results, all formulations have good foaming ability and there was no significance difference observed among the different formulations. ...
Tea Tree oil (TTO) contains beneficial properties such as antibacterial, antimicrobial, antiviral and anti-fungal. Whereas, the medium chain fatty acids in Virgin Coconut oil (VCO) able to protect hair follicles from heat, restoring hair’s moisture and other damage. This paper describes the physical properties of seven hair shampoo formulations containing differing amount of TTO and VCO. The essential oils (TTO) applied in these formulations were extracted from fresh tea trees using steam distillation method and the VCO was produced from fermentation of fresh mature kernel coconut. Gas Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry (GC-MS) analysis was conducted to determine the essential oil components of TTO and fatty acid composition of VCO. The shampoo formulations were subjected to evaluation of several parameters namely organoleptic, pH, viscosity, total solid content, foam stability, and dirt dispersion. The results show that the TTO was composed of terpene hydrocarbons with terpinene-4-ol as the major component; meanwhile lauric acid is major component of VCO. All the shampoo formulations were acid-balanced with pH range between 6.23 – 6.43; total solid contents were between 29.92 – 35.61%; stable foaming with the same foam volume for 4 minutes and no dirt was observed. Rheological test showed formulation with 6% TTO (0% VCO) has pseudo-plastic behavior and relatively lower total solid content which are desirable attributes in hair shampoo. Overall, TTO- and VCO-containing shampoo formulations showed ideal physicochemical properties for hair cleansing and treatments.
Hair care is an important part of an individual’s personal grooming regime. Hair grooming products have experienced a boom in the past few years, featuring a wide range of natural and chemical options. These products can be a major influence on the natural microbial inhabitants, they can cause imbalance in the scalp microbiome and in turn affect the scalp health. This chapter provides an overview of the role of natural microflora in maintaining a healthy human scalp, importance of their composition, and the consequences of dysbiosis. It also highlights the lack of extensive research in this field making it a potential area for further investigation. This chapter can serve as a preliminary source of information for pharmaceutical companies and cosmetic industries interested in developing hair care products taking natural microflora and its importance into consideration.
The increasing demand for effective hair care products has highlighted the necessity for rigorous claims substantiation methods, particularly for products that target specific hair types. This is essential because the effectiveness of a product can vary significantly based on the hair’s condition and characteristics. A well-defined bleaching protocol is crucial for creating a standardized method to assess product efficacy, especially for products designed to repair damaged hair. The objective of this study was to create a practical bleaching protocol that mimics real-world consumer experiences, ensuring that hair samples exhibit sufficient damage for testing. This approach allows for a reliable assessment of how well various products can repair hair. The protocol serves as a framework for evaluating hair properties and the specific effects of each product on hair structure. Color, brightness, lightness, morphology, and topography were primarily used to understand the big differences in the hair fiber when treated with two repair benchmark products, K18® and Olaplex®, in relation to the Bleached hair. The devised bleaching protocol proved to be a fitting framework for assessing the properties of hair and the unique characteristics of each tested product within the hair fiber. This protocol offers valuable insights and tools for substantiating consumer claims, with morphological and mechanical methods serving as indispensable tools for recognizing and validating claims related to hair. The addition of K18® and Olaplex® demonstrated an increase in hair brightness (Y) and lightness (L* and a*) in relation to the Bleached samples, which were considered relevant characteristics for consumers. Olaplex®’s water-based nature creates a visible inner sheet, effectively filling empty spaces and improving the disulfide linkage network. This enhancement was corroborated by the increased number of disulfide bonds and evident changes in the FTIR profile. In contrast, K18®, owing to the lipophilic nature of its constituents, resulted in the formation of an external layer above the fiber. The composition of each of the products had a discrete impact on the fiber distribution, which was an outcome relevant to the determination of spreadability by consumers.
Liquid formulations are ubiquitous yet have lengthy product development cycles owing to the complex physical interactions between ingredients making it difficult to tune formulations to customer-defined property targets. Interpolative ML models can accelerate liquid formulations design but are typically trained on limited sets of ingredients and without any structural information, which limits their out-of-training predictive capacity. To address this challenge, we selected eighteen formulation ingredients covering a diverse chemical space to prepare an open experimental dataset for training ML models for rinse-off formulations development. The resulting design space has an over 50-fold increase in dimensionality compared to our previous work. Here, we present a dataset of 812 formulations, including 294 stable samples, which cover the entire design space, with phase stability, turbidity, and high-fidelity rheology measurements generated on our semi-automated, ML-driven liquid formulations workflow. Our dataset has the unique attribute of sample-specific uncertainty measurements to train predictive surrogate models.
Background: Premature Hair Graying (PHG/ Canities) is the burning problem of today's society. Despite extensive research, the treatment for PHG is still unsatisfactory. Ayurveda considers Palitya (premature hair graying) as an ailment of vitiated Pitta dosha (deranged functional factor of the body responsible for digestion and metabolism). Ayurveda therapeutics can provide the natural solution to this problem without adverse effects and also can prevent the recurrence. Objective: In present research work, attempts are made to formulate unique, safe and effective herbomineral hair dye (Keshranjak yog) an Ayurvedic formulation. The prepared formulation is also evaluated for its efficiency through various organoleptic, phytochemical and physicochemical parameters. Results: The pH of prepared herbomineral hair dye was found to be 6 which is close to neutral; to suit the requirements of different scalp and hair types. Total phenolic content (8.1%±0.7), total flavonoid content (6±1.2) of prepared sample were found to be acceptable and within limit. Conclusion: The dyeing effect of the developed dye may be attributed to keshya (good for hair), Kesharanjak (hair coloring) properties according to Ayurveda and presence of tannins, phenols as per pharmaceutics. Nowadays natural remedies are widely accepted as they are safer with minimal side effects as compared to the chemical hair dye. Kesharanjak yog may provide vital nourishment to the scalp skin and can color the hair in an utmost gentle manner. Due to nontoxic nature can act as public healthcare product.
pH adjustment is crucial for many industrial products, yet this step is typically performed by manual trial‐and‐error. A particularly industrially relevant yet challenging titration is that of adjusting viscous liquid formulations using weak, polyprotic titrants (usually citric acid). Handling of viscous, non‐Newtonian formulations, with such polyprotic acids preferred for their chelation and buffering effects make a robotic solution challenging. We present a self‐driving pH robot integrated with physics‐informed learning; this hybrid physical‐ML model enables automated titration with weak‐strong acid/base pairs. To deal with the high viscosities of these formulations, we developed specific automated mixing and cleaning protocols. We hit the target pH within two to five iterations over 250 distinct formulations in lab‐scale small‐batch (~10 mL and 12 samples) titrations. In the interest of scaling up to match industrial processes, we also demonstrate that our hybrid algorithm works at ~25× scale‐up. The method is general, and we open‐source our algorithm and designs.
Background: Shampoo is one of the most popular cosmetic items for washing the hair and scalp. It is necessary to evaluate shampoo in order to understand its performance, quality, and effectiveness, as well as to ensure compliance with the standards of many journal articles. Objective: The purpose of the research study was to evaluate the quality of four commercial and two medicinal shampoo brands made in Nepal. Method: A cross-sectional, descriptive study was carried out in order to evaluate label information, microbiological quality, and physiochemical parameters such as (pH, density, viscosity, surface tension, foaming ability & stability, detergency power, wetting time etc. Furthermore, a UV-visible spectrophotometer was used to measure the percentage of assay of medicated sample. Result: When compared to secondary data from journals, the study found that not all shampoos met specifications. It was found that only S5 of the six samples tested positive for microbial growth and exceeded the limit. Except for S5, the pH ranged between 5-7.The surface tension of all samples meets the specifications. S1-S4 had normal detergency power, however the medicated sample had low detergency power. All demonstrated good wetting time and dirt dispersion. The percentage of solid content in S1-S2 was very low. The assay percentage was within the prescribed range for medicated sample. Conclusion: When compared to a standard journal, the study found that certain parameters were within range while some were out of range.
The study refers to the use of Cordia lutea Lam gum as a natural thickener in a liquid soap formulation. The aim was to determine the phytochemical components and the thickening capacity of mucilage gum in a liquid soap formula. The color of the fruit and the mucilage gum were determined by CIELab methodology, the phytochemical screening of the mucilage gum extracted by manual pressure, by rapid chemical reactions. The hydrocarbons were determined by gas chromatography and the viscosity using a rotational viscometer. Liquid soap was made according to a commercial formula using a DCA design along with the factors amount of mucilage and Texapon at two levels (low and high) and viscosity and foam formation that were used as response variables. The thickening effect of the mucilage gum in the soap was evidenced through the viscosity (mPa.s) and foaming capacity by the test tube method; those variables were tabulated using the statistical software statgraphics plus. Phytochemical results showed the presence of saponins, quinones, carotenoids and coumarins; and hydrocarbon compounds: tetratriacontane (34,28%), n-hexadecanoic acid (28,74%) and 9-12-15-Octadecatrienoic acid (18,19%). The viscosity of the mucilage gum was greater than 14000 mPa.s and that of the liquid soap that ranged from 1931 to 2822 mPa.s. The pH was 6,5 to 6,8 and the foaming was comparatively higher than commercial products. The mucilage gum obtained constitutes a natural thickener with an important projection of immediate application in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries.
Trace evidence found at crime scenes is rarely in an unsullied condition. Surface-enhanced Raman spectroscopy (SERS) is a modern analytical technique that can be used for the detection of artificial hair colourants (S. Higgins and D. Kurouski, Surface-Enhanced Raman Spectroscopy Enables Highly Accurate Identification of Different Brands, Types and Colors of Hair Dyes, Talanta, 2022, 251, 123762). However, contaminants pose a problem to collecting accurate spectra from the dyes. In this study, we sought to analyze how the different physical properties of contaminants can influence the collected spectra. We utilized 11 household substances of varying viscosity and opacity to contaminate hair dyed with permanent black or semi-permanent blue dyes. We discovered that contaminant opacity generally does not affect the spectral quality but that high contaminant viscosity does and that acidic substances could destroy the colourant's spectral identity altogether. Cleaning the contaminated hair with a water rinse allowed the underlying colourant to be identified in 21 out of 22 cases. Overall, this study provided a clearer understanding of the capabilities and limitations of SERS in forensic hair analysis.
Although pubic hair has been a subject of public interest, little is known about its structure or characteristics beyond its curly and coarse appearance. In this study, we investigated the surface and internal features of pubic hair from Korean males and compared them to those of scalp hair from the same donors. Our findings indicate that the cuticle layer of pubic hair has a greater number of scales than that of scalp hair, resulting in a thicker cuticle layer overall. Fourier-transform infrared (FT-IR) spectroscopy analysis showed that the protein in the cortex layer of pubic hair was less affected by exposure to urine or ammonia than the protein in the cortex layer of scalp hair. This suggests that the cuticle layer of pubic hair, which is thicker and composed of more scales, acts as a physical barrier that protects the hair's internal structure. Furthermore, we observed that the secondary and tertiary structures of keratin in the pubic hair cuticle layer are essentially different from those in scalp hair. Based on these findings, we hypothesize that the thickened cuticle layer in pubic hair may have evolved as a defence mechanism against chemical damage from urine, urea and ammonia.
The study begins with a perilous standpoint of lovely images (female/male/child) in the mass media being regularly developed a formulaic typecasting concept of beauty. Quite a few feminine beauty myths have been grown in India during the contemporary times. The rise of cosmetic herbal advertisements portraying regressive images of womanly beauty to endorse products. Cosmetics perception of herbal integration is observed in respect to beauty myths portrayed by the media. The authors examine the structures of beauty myths of cosmetic herbals in India and their fundamental features. This is because of deep rooted androcentric dogma which portrays and objectifies the certain gender (especially women). Media vehemently disseminates much distorted concept of “beauty”. Brand changes their entire appearance with varied makeup products. There are evidently many products are available in the market which promises to bring a change in color/look/appearance altogether which is not always true but the study argues that the narratives of these cosmetic herbal products is creating an illusion. Roland Barthes's theory of mythology has been taken into consideration to understand the luxury of myth, and attributes of misleading information of media content. The study further directs to assimilate the perception of the consumers along with the semiology in depicting the beauty myth. There is a huge gap between women in reality and representative women in the mass media. It is very crucial to have a balanced perception of perceived images presented or drive by the mass media.
Objective:
A critical and often-overlooked factor that may give rise to dandruff and oily hair is the intrinsic quality of the scalp stratum corneum (SC), which is often unbalanced and susceptible to external aggressions. Addressing the inflammation element of unhealthy scalp plays an important role in promoting healthy-looking and feeling hair. Although specialized pro-resolving lipid mediators (SPMs) have been studied in the skin to end the inflammation process and promote tissue regeneration, no studies have been provided in the scalp. This study aims to investigate SPMs expression and its role in improving scalp integrity and consequently improving hair appearance using an Anetholea anisita extract.
Methods:
The effect of Anetholea anisita extract was investigated in vitro on human follicle dermal papilla cells (HFDPC), evaluating its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties by fluorescence staining and ELISA, respectively. Ex-vivo measurement of the volume of human scalp sebaceous glands was performed using X-ray microtomography (micro CT). The extract was then clinically tested on a population of dandruff sufferers presenting oily hair. Volunteers' sebum was collected on the scalp and analyzed by LC-MS/MS or ELISA to identify SPMs and pro-inflammatory markers. Scalp integrity was assessed by measuring the pH and the TEWL. Sebum production, dandruff and hair gloss were also evaluated.
Results:
Anetholea anisita extract reduced IL-8 and Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) generation in HFDPC. Interestingly, this extract also decreased the volume of sebaceous glands as revealed by micro CT. This result was confirmed in vivo by a decrease of sebum production in volunteers. Moreover, SPMs were analyzed and detected in the scalp for the first time. An increase of Lipoxin B4 (LxB4) and Resolvin D1 and D2 (RvD1 and RvD2) was observed after Anetholea anisita treatment as well as decreased of pro-inflammatory sebum mediators expression such as PGE2, LTB4 and IL-8. Consequently, the scalp barrier was reinforced as observed through improved transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin surface pH, reducing dandruff and improving hair health.
Conclusion:
The present results suggest the potential of cosmetic applications of Anetholea anisita extract to improve scalp health by targeting inflammation pathways to decrease dandruff and improve hair condition.
Hypothesis
Essential oils (EOs) are common additives in daily products by virtue of their olfactory, physicochemical, and biological characteristics. However, EOs are physicochemically unstable and susceptible to degradation or loss, leading to limited shelf life and inadequate efficacy. Herein we propose a new bi-layered encapsulation structure in combination with complex coacervation and self-coating of polydopamine (PDA) on membrane emulsified mono-dispersion of EOs droplets.
Experiments
A mono-dispersed EOs emulsion stabilized by nonionic surfactants was produced by membrane emulsification, wherein the EOs droplets were applied as soft templates to deposit a superficial PDA layer. Under alkaline conditions, gelatin (GE) was bound to the PDA layer and further applied as in situ coacervation sites for gum Arabic (GA). Structural identification and morphological observation proved the successful preparation of bi-layered EOs capsules.
Findings
Compared with traditional complex coacervation strategies, current novel bi-layered capsules showed significantly improved structural stability, thermal stability, providing better protection of EOs with sustained release properties. Moreover, the encapsulation efficiency and loading content were both proved higher for the bi-layered system. The first report on PDA-coating onto surfactants-absorbed macroemulsion droplets also provides an in-depth insight into applying PDA as versatile intermediate functional biomaterials.
Objective: The objective of the study was to evaluate the laboratory parameters of polyherbal Unani formulation with simple shampoo base used in seborrheic dermatitis (Huzaz) of scalp. Methods: Evaluation of test drug formulation with shampoo base was done for its appearance, pH, % of solid contents, wetting time, density, viscosity, dirt dispersion test, froth test, and skin irritation test. Results: Polyherbal formulation along with simple shampoo base was dark brown in color, thin in consistency, and with pungent aroma. pH of poly herbal formulation was 8.27 which will have positive effect on greasy and thin hairs. Solid contents were moderately easy to wash. Wetting time was 200 s, density was 1.17 g, and viscosity was 2.33 moderately good. Froth test showed froth >8 cm. Skin sensitivity on albino rats showed no allergic reaction. Conclusion: Polyherbal Unani formulation can be a promising drug with least side-effects and cost-effective in treating dandruff which relapses every now and then.
Medical professionals that treat patients with alopecia usually lack knowledge about hair cosmetics. Trichologists focus on hair cycling and growth problems and not on the hair shaft integrity. This may lead to abandon of the use of the prescribed treatment, such as topical minoxidil or to inadequate traumatic grooming habits that may jeopardize hair follicle health. Shampoos, hair dyes, and hair-straightening products may alter hair fiber structure, remove lipids, and elude protein. Hair procedures such as hair dying and straightening have side effects and health concerns, especially for pregnant women or sensitive hair and scalp patients. Hair breakage, follicle traction, frizz, contact dermatitis, and mutagenicity are possible side effects of hair cosmetics misuse. The proper use of hair care products may help to increase patients' adherence to alopecia treatments and avoid health problems related to inadequate application of hair cosmetics and procedures.
The adsorption of mixtures of charged polymers onto solid surfaces presents a big interest in different technological and industrial fields, and in particular, in cosmetics. This requires to deepen on the most fundamental physico-chemical bases governing the deposition, which is generally correlated to the interactions occurring in solution. This work explores the interaction in solution of model polymer mixtures formed by a cationic homopolymer (poly(diallyl-dimethyl-ammonium chloride), PDADMAC) and a zwitterionic copolymer (copolymer of acrylic acid, 3-Trimethylammonium propyl methacrylamide chloride and acrylamide, Merquat 2003), and the adsorption of such mixtures onto negatively charged surfaces. The analysis of the interactions occurring in solution between both polymers performed using dynamic light scattering (DLS), electrophoretic mobility and viscosity measurements, combined with the study of the deposition of the layers of mixtures containing different weight fractions of each polymer using ellipsometry and quartz crystal microbalance with dissipation monitoring (QCM-D) has shown that the interpolymer complexes formed in solution, and their composition, governs the deposition onto the solid surface and the tribological properties of the adsorbed layers as shown the Surface Force Apparatus (SFA) experiments, allowing for a control of the physico-chemical properties and structure of the layers. Furthermore, the use of Self Consistent Mean Fields Calculations (SCF) confirms the picture obtained from the experimental studies of the adsorbed layers, providing a prediction of the distribution of the polymer chains within the adsorbed layers. It is expected that this study can help on the understanding of the correlations existing between the behavior of future associations of innovative and eco-sustainable polymers and their adsorption processes onto solid surface.
Watercress oil (WCO) is the seed oil of Nasturtium officinale, Brassicaceae family. WCO is a cosmetic for hair growth approved by the Saudi Food and Drug Authority (SFDA). The study aimed to analyze by GC-MS, the phytochemical profile and the safety of WCO as a cosmetic according to SFDA, validates the traditional method of applying hot oil mixtures to the scalp, and also reports the pH, UV absorption, and in-silico binding mechanism of fatty acids for hair growth. The absorption of UV-B light (284.50 nm and 290.60 nm) by WCO suggests that it acts as a sunscreen for the scalp. The pH of the marketed WCO, 5.53 ± 0.02, shall not damage the scalp and hair. The GC-MS analysis confirmed fatty acids as the principal constituents (65.65%) of WCO composed of monounsaturated fatty acids (MUFAs): cis-11-Octadecenoic acid (17.14%), cis-9-Octadecenoic acid (17.11%), cis-13-Eicosenoic acid (11.13%), cis-11-Eicosenoic acid (3.48%), and cis-13-Docosenoic acid (1.64%); saturated fatty acid: n-Hexadecanoic acid (12.89%); saturated fatty alcohol: Docosanol (2.26%). The GC-MS results also confirmed the absence of colorants, toxic solvents, and therapeutic substances in WCO, a cosmetic requirement, according to SFDA. The densities of mixtures of WCO+Coconut oil was 0.801 ± 0.03 mg/mL, and WCO+Olive oil was 0.885 ± 0.01 mg/mL; the kinematic viscosities of WCO+Coconut oil was 21.5 ± 0.0 mm²/s, and WCO+Olive oil was 28.6 ± 0.1 mm²/s at 40℃, which was lesser than the mixtures at 27℃. The decrease in density and viscosity of hot oil mixtures can improve the penetration of oil into the hair filament, which substantiated the traditional application method. In-silico, molecular docking results revealed that all the fatty acid constituents except Docosanol contributed to the hair growth promotion effect by activating MAPK1, MAPK3, and MAPKp38 receptors. This work is the first report on WCO to establish the phytochemical profile to confirm SFDA standard by GC-MS and its in-silico efficiency of activation of MAPK receptors for hair growth.
Naturally derived surfactants in hair care products are a trend in cosmetic technology. This study aimed to formulate and fully characterize the performance of shampoos with sugar‐derived surfactants, namely, the alkyl polyglucosides decyl glucoside and coco‐glucoside. In addition, different thickeners and conditioning ingredients were added to improve the formulation properties. A sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) formulation was used as control. Rheology, pH, foaming, contact angles on a keratin surface, and surface tensions were determined. The safety of the formulations was evaluated by in vitro cytotoxicity studies using the human keratinocyte HaCaT cell line and human retinal pigment epithelial cells ARPE‐19. The efficacies were studied by in vitro hair combing force assays and in vivo sensorial analysis. The formulated sugar surfactant‐based shampoos showed the following properties: (i) pH values higher than those of SLES (which were posteriorly lowered with lactic acid); (ii) higher foamability than SLES, and high wettability; (iii) Newtonian behavior and predominance of liquid state with a suitable viscosity; (iv) low cytotoxicity in both human keratinocytes and retinal cell lines (in contrast to SLES); (v) easier hair combing than SLES, when Polyquaternium‐7 was used as conditioner; (vi) efficient and gentle hair washing; and (vii) favorable sensorial analysis confirming the previous washing properties. In conclusion, the sugar surfactants had a considerable impact in the properties of the shampoo formulations, in terms of both hair cleansing properties and efficacy, as demonstrated here. These favorable outcomes clearly support the use of these ingredients in shampoo formulation design.
Healthy hair is manageable, shiny hair with no frizz and good growth rate. Selecting an appropriate shampoo and conditioner is not always easy, for patients or for dermatologists, because each type of hair requires a specific type of care. In order to provide patients with adequate information, dermatologists should be acquainted with the most common shampoo and conditioner ingredients and their effect on the scalp and hair shafts. Despite the huge variety of hair care products currently available, there are no standardized guidelines on how to select a good shampoo and conditioner considering different hair types. Also, there are scarce data in the literature regarding shampoo and conditioner ingredients and how to prescribe them on a daily basis. The aim of this chapter is to offer a practical guideline based on several flow diagrams on how to choose the appropriate shampoo and conditioner.
The formulation of cosmetic products is always more complicated than studying the individual components in aqueous solution. This is because there are numerous interactions between the components, which make the formulation truly more than the sum of the parts. This article will look at interactions between anionic and cationic surfactants and offer insights into how to use these interactions advantageously in making formulations.
In this study, x-ray fluorescent spectroscopy was employed, in a non-destructive way, to analyze the influence that water-soluble, cationic hydroxyethylcellulose (i.e., polyquaternium-10) has on the deposition of silicone oil (dimethicone) onto hair. Virgin brown hair tresses were washed with various model shampoos that contained emulsified dimethicone. The shampoos were modified only by the addition or absence of polyquaternium-10. The results indicate that the cationic polymers do influence silicone oil deposition onto hair during the shampooing process. In the absence of cationic polymer, the silicone oils deposit readily, but appear to show "build-up" phenomena upon repeated washings. When a cationic polymer is present in the continuous phase of the shampoo, the build-up phenomena is significantly diminished, and silicone oil deposition remains relatively constant in repeated washings. In addition, we have noted that the molecular weight of the cationic polymer can have a strong effect on silicone oil deposition. It appears that the higher the molecular weight of the polyquaternium-10, the greater the amount of silicone deposition onto the surface of the hair. To demonstrate that the analysis technique has potential applications in commercial shampoos, we examined a commercial "2-in-1" shampoo that contains dimethicone and polyquaternium-10 and found that the data for our simple model shampoos and the commercial shampoo correlated closely.
Shiny hair with a smooth texture and clean-cut ends or tapered tips is generally perceived to be healthy. Hair texture and shine relate to hair surface properties, whereas the integrity of hair ends relates to the hair cortex. Hair can be straight, wavy or curly, blonde, black, brown, red, gray white, and its natural variations are important to our identity. Manipulation of the normal structure of the hair shaft is epidemic and dictated by culture, fashion, and above all, celebrity. Although cosmetic procedures are intrinsically safe, there is potential for damage to the hair. Loss of lustre, frizz, split ends, and other hair problems are particularly prevalent among people who repeatedly alter the natural style of their hair or among people with hair that is intrinsically weak. This may be due to individual or racial variation or less commonly an inherited structural abnormality in hair fiber formation. Hair health is also affected by common afflictions of the scalp as well as age-related phenomena such as graying and androgenetic alopecia. Hair products that improve the structural integrity of hair fibers and increase tensile strength are available, as are products that increase hair volume, reduce frizz, improve hair manageability, and stimulate new hair growth.
Doubts concerning the action of hair cosmetics and the health of both body and hair are more frequent in the dermatological visits. Dermatologists need no only to enrich the knowledge of scalp diseases but also of molecular interactions of cosmetics used in hair fiber, including the influence of such products when absorbed by the epithelium of the scalp. The amount of medical visits increases every day to find out which techniques and chemical products are best indicated to enable the desired changes in hair from its natural appearance and, at the same time, to keep the hair healthy and beautiful. In this article, divided in two parts, we discuss the hair physiology, structure and chemical nature, as well as the agents used for its smoothing, coloring, hygiene and cosmetic treatment, and the consequences that such procedures can have on overall health, including their use safety during pregnancy and lactation.
The authors complement the first article on the approach of dermatological aesthetic hair treatments. This article addresses the ultimate hair straightening with major straightening legalized - sodium, lithium and guanidine hydroxides and ammonium thioglycolate -, their differences, mechanisms of action, indications and safety to human health. Besides these straighteners, we discuss the illegal and indiscriminate use of hairdressers salons in Brazil in the group of aldehydes (formaldehyde and glutaraldehyde) for smoothing hair. This study focuses its legal implications and public health, carcinogenic potencial and the identification of such filings with ANVISA. Also studied the shampoos and conditioning agents indicated for treatment of the hair shaft. Finally, we discuss the implications of hair care in general health of the hair shaft and the scalp.
One of the roadblocks to both communication between the cosmetic scientist and consumers and scientific investigations in hair care has been the lack of meaningful definitions for the important cosmetic properties of hair conditioning, hair body, and manageability. A definition for hair conditioning has emerged that allows this important cosmetic property to be approached by considering ease of combing as the first boundary condition. In addition, progress has been made for the definitions of hair body and manageability over the past two decades. Admittedly, there is still room for improvement in the understanding of these hair assembly characteristics, but even more progress awaits those important properties associated with hair feel, such as clean hair feel, conditioned feel, and dryness-oiliness.
As early as can be traced, written documents testify endeavors shown by humanity to please by means of the hair. Hair care, color and style play an important role in people's physical appearance and self-perception. Dermatologists should be knowledgeable about the procedures people follow to look their best and should have the competence to provide patients with information on the benefits and hazards of hair cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Shampooing is the most common form of cosmetic hair treatment. The diversity of qualities expected from a shampoo by today's consumer surpass the primary function of cleansing. Current shampoo formulations are adapted to the variations associated with hair quality, hair care habit and specific problems related to the superficial condition of the scalp. Hand in hand, test methods are developed to evaluate the efficacy of hair care products so that consumers are offered products that perform as claimed. Through the development of cosmetics with pharmaceutically active compounds, products are evolving that are becoming more similar to topical therapeutic agents (cosmeceuticals). The efficacy of cosmeceuticals that claim to act as hair growth stimulants should be measured by the standards set by the drugs minoxidil and, more recently, oral finasteride. Finally, health hazards associated with the use of hair care products, especially rinse-off products, have been overemphasized by the media and need careful correction by opinion leaders. Copyright (C) 2001 S. Karger AG, Basel.
Human hair is the subject of a remarkably wide range of scientific investigations. Its chemical and physical properties are of importance to the cosmetics industry, forensic scientists and to biomedical researchers. The fifth edition of this book confirms its position as the definitive monograph on the subject. Previous editions were recognized as “concise and thorough” (Journal of the American Chemical Society), “an invaluable resource” (Canadian Forensic Science Society Journal), and “highly recommended” (Textile Research Journal). Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair is a teaching guide and reference volume for cosmetic chemists and other scientists in the hair products industry, academic researchers studying hair and hair growth, textile scientists and forensic specialists. Features of the Fifth Edition: Recent advances in the classification and characterization of the different proteins and genes in IF and keratin associated proteins in human hair are described. The mechanism and incidence of hair growth and loss and hair density vs. age of males & females are described for Asians, Caucasians and Africans in different scalp regions. Details of hair surface lipids and cuticle membranes provide a better understanding of the surface and organization of the CMC and its involvement in stress strain is presented. Recent evidence demonstrates a more bilateral structure in curly hair and a more concentric arrangement of different cortical proteins in straighter hair. SNPs involved in hair form (curl and coarseness) and pigmentation and genes in alopecia and hair abnormalities are described. The latest biosynthetic scheme for hair pigments and structures for these and the different response of red versus brown-black pigments to photodegradation is described. A new method for curvature on 2,400 persons from different countries and groups is used to assign curvature throughout this book. Additional data for age and effects on diameter, ellipticity, elastic modulus, break stress and other parameters are presented with much larger data sets featuring statistical analyses. Hair conditioning, strength, breakage, split ends, flyaway, shine, combing ease, body, style retention, manageability and feel parameters are defined and described. A new section of different life stages by age groups considering collective and individual changes in hair fiber properties with age and how these affect assembly properties.
Synopsis Oxidation of hair fibers with diperisophthalic acid can produce extensive damage throughout several cuticle layers that is readily observed microscopically. At the same time, no detectable changes in the tensile properties (wet or dry) are detectable. These results are consistent with the hypothesis that the tensile properties of human hair are due primarily to the cortex, with little or no cuticle involvement. human hair. There is a long-standing hypothesis, that the cortex is primarily responsible for the tensile properties of human hair (1), although there is one publication with limited data suggesting the possibility of some cuticle involvement in the tensile properties of hair (2) and some evidence that wool fibers containing a medulla are weaker than non- medullated fibers (3). If the cortex is primarily responsible for the tensile properties of hair fibers, or even if there be only minor cuticle and/or medullary involvement in the tensile properties of hair, then the tensile properties are primarily an index of cortical damage. Therefore, if the tensile properties do not show change, without any further experimental evidence, such data does not stand as an indication of no hair damage. The lack of cuticle involvement in the tensile properties of hair or even minimal in- volvement might seem surprising, because, for a 70-micron hair fiber with a 4-micron- thick band of cuticular material (2), the cuticle represents approximately 22% of the total fiber cross-sectional area. Thus, it would be somewhat surprising if the cuticle were not involved at all in the tensile properties of human hair. With respect to medullary involvement in the tensile properties of hair, such involve- ment has only been demonstrated for selected wool fibers where the medulla represented more than 70 percent of the cross section (3), and such heavy medullation is not common in human hair. A few years ago, we examined an oxidative treatment for hair based on diperisophthalic acid. We found that under certain conditions this reagent could produce extensive
The results of torsional measurements on fibers of different diameters suggest that the hair cuticle, while tough and resilient in the dry state, undergoes water plasticization to a much greater extent than the hair cortex. The change in the torsional moduli of fibers exposed to chemical modification can be related to the configurational stability in water and be of sonhe utility in predicting the setting behavior of hair.
This article examines hair care in persons with hair loss. The use of shampoos, conditioners, and hair styling products to camouflage hair loss is discussed. Because hair is nonliving, medical treatments are limited to only inducing change in the follicles within the scalp skin and do not improve the hair loss actually witnessed by the patient. There is therefore a need to accompany medical treatment of hair loss with cosmetic hair treatment to optimize patient satisfaction.
Shampooing is the most common form of hair treatment. Shampoos have primarily been products aimed at cleansing the hair and scalp. The diversity of qualities demanded from a good shampoo by today’s consumer go far beyond this general function. A cosmetic benefit is expected, and the shampoo formulation has to be tailored to all the possible variations associated with hair quality (dry, greasy, permed, bleached, dyed), age (baby shampoo), care habit (frequency of shampooing) and specific problems relating to the superficial condition of the scalp (dandruff, seborrhea). Selected ingredients of shampoos that have been popular with the consumer are currently under attack because of potential risks associated with their use (e. g. halogenated organic compounds, formaldehyde, musk fragrances, and crude coal tar). Our standard graduate training programs devote limited attention to the subject of shampoos, and much of the readily available information concerning shampoos is supplied by the industry. We should be increasingly aware that our patients look to us to supply independent information on what can be expected from a shampoo to enable them to make more informed choices at the consumer level.
Bubble hair is an acquired hair shaft abnormality characterized by multiple airfilled spaces within the hair shaft. It is a result of thermal injury. We report a classic case of 22-year-old female who complained of dry brittle hair of two-week duration. Patient had used hot iron on wet hair twice to straighten hair. Hair microscopy was diagnostic and showed multiple air-filled spaces within the hair shaft.
Many of today's treatments associated with 'thinning hair', such as female pattern hair loss and telogen effluvium, are focused on two of the key aspects of the condition. Over-the-counter or prescription medications are often focused on improving scalp hair density while high-quality cosmetic products work to prevent further hair damage and minimize mid-fibre breakage. Fibre diameter is another key contributor to thinning hair, but it is less often the focus of medical or cosmetic treatments.
To examine the ability of a novel leave-on technology combination [caffeine, niacinamide, panthenol, dimethicone and an acrylate polymer (CNPDA)] to affect the diameter and behaviour of individual terminal scalp hair fibres as a new approach to counteract decreasing fibre diameters.
Testing methodology included fibre diameter measures via laser scan micrometer, assessment of fibre mechanical and behavioural properties via tensile break stress and torsion pendulum testing, and mechanistic studies including cryoscanning electron microscopy and autoradiographic analysis.
CNPDA significantly increased the diameter of individual, existing terminal scalp hair fibres by 2-5 μm, which yields an increase in the cross-sectional area of approximately 10%. Beyond the diameter increase, the CNPDA-thickened fibres demonstrated the altered mechanical properties characteristic of thicker fibres: increased suppleness/pliability (decreased shear modulus) and better ability to withstand force without breaking (increased break stress).
Although cosmetic treatments will not reverse the condition, this new approach may help to mitigate the effects of thinning hair.
Although branched chain fatty acids perform many functions in biological systems, the importance of the anteiso 18 methyleicosanoic acid (MEA) has only recently been recognized. In this first review on MEA its role and distribution is explored. MEA has been found in minor amounts in the fatty acid components of a wide range of biological materials, but the current interest results from it being the major covalently bound fatty acid in mammalian hair fibres, a finding which is unusual because protein-bound fatty acids are typically straight-chain, even-numbered acids (C14-C18). MEA is released by surface restricted reagents indicating that it is located exclusively in or on the surface of the cuticle cells, a conclusion that has been verified by analysis of isolated cuticle cells, X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS) and secondary-ion mass spectroscopy (SIMS) studies support these results in that they show the surface of the cuticle to be predominantly hydrocarbon. When either neutral hydroxylamine or acidic chlorine solutions are applied to hair and wool fibres fatty acids are liberated, indicating the presence of thioester bonds. Calculations, based on fatty acid and amino acid analysis, indicate that approximately one residue in 10 of the cuticular membrane protein is a fatty acid thioester of cysteine. Removal of this covalently linked fatty acid renders the fibre hydrophilic, thus offering a chemical explanation for many technological and cosmetic treatments of mammalian fibres. Examination of the fibre surface and that of isolated cuticle cells by transmission electron microscopy (TEM) confirms the presence of a thin non-staining continuous layer surrounding the cuticle cells. Alkaline treatments which remove the bound fatty acids were found to disrupt this layer. TEM examination of developing hair fibres has indicated that the fatty acid layer on the upper surface and scale edges of the cuticle cell differs from that of the underside of the cell. Similar structural studies of hair from patients with maple syrup urine disease (MSUD) support the findings that thioester-bound MEA is limited to the upper surface of fibre cuticle cells. The current model proposed for the boundary layer consists of crosslinked protein with surface thioester-linked fatty acids, forming a continuous hydrophobic layer on the upper surface and scale edges of the cells.
Why does the selection of hair cleansing products and conditioners seem complex? Why are there clear, opalescent, green, blue, glittery, cheap, expensive, thick, thin, fragrant, and unscented varieties of shampoos and conditioners? Why the whole cleansing process cannot be simplified by using the same bar soap used on the body for the hair? Does the shampoo selected really make a difference? What can a conditioner accomplish?
A new hair visual appearance measurement system called SAMBA from Bossa Nova Technologies (Venice, CA) has been employed to measure effects of cosmetic treatments on hair shine and surface smoothness of different types of hair samples. Experimental procedures for evaluations of shine value and surface cuticle angle of hair samples treated with rinse-off products (shampoo or/and conditioner) have been successfully established and applied. We demonstrated that hair spray and conditioner formulas containing PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate (PBEM) (1) showed great performance on shine enhancement for hairs with light and medium colors. Instrumental measurement of shine values was also conducted to compare different commercial shampoo and conditioner products. This study showed reliable utility of SAMBA system and demonstrated the shine enhancement of PBEM in hair care.
Alterations in the cuticle, cortex, and medulla are necessary to modify the hair cosmetically. The hair can be modified externally by the use of shampoos to remove excess sebum, conditioners to restore shine, and styling aids to increase manageability. Several different formulations of all these products exist, depending on the needs of the patient. Furthermore, the hair can be modified both externally and internally through the use of hair dyes, permanent waving lotions, and hair straighteners. Use of these products causes external damage to the hair shaft by disrupting the overlapping cuticular scales, rendering the hair susceptible to static electricity and the effects of humidity while decreasing manageability and shine. Internal damage created by these products decreases the hair shaft's elastic properties, allowing increased hair breakage. The dermatologist can better aid the patient with hair difficulties if he or she has an understanding of the formulation and effects of products designed to cleanse, beautify, and modify the hair.
Cleansing of the skin and hair is part of the daily routine of all neonates, infants, toddlers, children, and adolescents. Numerous soap and shampoo products are available to the consumer. The pediatrician is often asked to comment on the safety and efficacy of these products. Little information is available to help the pediatrician make a rational decision. The list of ingredients on the package are seldom useful and can be confusing. The theoretical and practical considerations leading to the addition of the major constituents of soaps and shampoos are reviewed and guidelines for the use of soaps and shampoos under normal circumstances and in a few selected conditions are suggested.
Consumers have expressed a need for cleaning and conditioning in one step. Conventional shampoo technology using anionic surfactants and cationic conditioners results in charge interaction and complexing of the ingredients. Neither shampoo nor conditioners achieves the desired result. The successful solution was to incorporate charge neutral dimethicone conditioning ingredients, suspended as microfine droplets within complex crystal lattices, into anionic surfactant shampoo technology. The same solution has also been applied to amphoteric surfactant systems. This provides complete cleaning, and hair conditioning fully equal to separate conditioners without the problems of sebum interactions and conditioner build-up. This was achieved by keeping the dimethicone in suspension throughout the shampoo process. During rinsing, excess water breaks the crystalline lattice and allows deposition of the dimethicone droplets onto the hair. Full cleaning and conditioning are, therefore, achieved in one application. Dimethicone build-up is not encountered as subsequent washes first remove soil and previously deposited dimethicone. Neither do neutral dimethicones show any reactions with sebum. The development of effective 2-in-1 technology has had a major impact on shampoo technology and consumer habits and practices. This has significantly changed the way consumers care for their hair.
Shampooing is the most common form of hair treatment. Shampoos have primarily been products aimed at cleansing the hair and scalp. The diversity of qualities demanded from a good shampoo by today's consumer go far beyond this general function. A cosmetic benefit is expected, and the shampoo formulation has to be tailored to all the possible variations associated with hair quality (dry, greasy, permed, bleached, dyed), age (baby shampoo), care habit (frequency of shampooing) and specific problems relating to the superficial condition of the scalp (dandruff, seborrhea). Selected ingredients of shampoos that have been popular with the consumer are currently under attack because of potential risks associated with their use (e.g. halogenated organic compounds, formaldehyde, musk fragrances, and crude coal tar). Our standard graduate training programs devote limited attention to the subject of shampoos, and much of the readily available information concerning shampoos is supplied by the industry. We should be increasingly aware that our patients look to us to supply independent information on what can be expected from a shampoo to enable them to make more informed choices at the consumer level.
As early as can be traced, written documents testify endeavors shown by humanity to please by means of the hair. Hair care, color and style play an important role in people's physical appearance and self-perception. Dermatologists should be knowledgeable about the procedures people follow to look their best and should have the competence to provide patients with information on the benefits and hazards of hair cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Shampooing is the most common form of cosmetic hair treatment. The diversity of qualities expected from a shampoo by today's consumer surpass the primary function of cleansing. Current shampoo formulations are adapted to the variations associated with hair quality, hair care habit and specific problems related to the superficial condition of the scalp. Hand in hand, test methods are developed to evaluate the efficacy of hair care products so that consumers are offered products that perform as claimed. Through the development of cosmetics with pharmaceutically active compounds, products are evolving that are becoming more similar to topical therapeutic agents (cosmeceuticals). The efficacy of cosmeceuticals that claim to act as hair growth stimulants should be measured by the standards set by the drugs minoxidil and, more recently, oral finasteride. Finally, health hazards associated with the use of hair care products, especially rinse-off products, have been overemphasized by the media and need careful correction by opinion leaders.
Conditioners are known to have a prophylactic effect on hair damage caused by cosmetic chemical treatments or mechanical grooming procedures. They are known to impart softness and smoothness to hair by moisturizing the fiber. Since the amount of conditioners deposited on the fiber is very small in quantity, it is conceivable that mainly the surface is moisturized. This is especially true of polymeric conditioners, which deposit preferentially on the surface of the fiber, rather than penetrate into the cortex. Therefore, this study strictly investigates whether cationic polymeric conditioners impart softness to the surface cuticle cell as a result of their hydrophilicity, with no regard to its applicability to cosmetic effects. Such softening can be detected by indentation of the surface and can be quantified by measuring the depth of the indent in real time. Atomic force microscopy (AFM), equipped with nano-indentation capability, is ideally suited for this purpose. In this work it was used to determine changes in the microhardness (micromechanical properties) of the hair fiber surface as a result of fiber/conditioner/moisture interactions. In a preliminary study, we observed that the scale faces of hair treated with Polyquaternium 10 (PQ-10) conditioner gave deeper indents, while scale edges yielded shallower ones in comparison to cuticle cells of untreated hair. This suggests that the conditioner softens the scale face and hardens the scale edges. However, because of significant amounts of conditioner residues left on the scale face, this conclusion was rather ambiguous. Therefore, the study was repeated in which multiple indentations were made on the surface cuticle cells of a larger number of the same hair fibers before and after multiple applications of the conditioner. This reduces errors due to fiber-to-fiber variation in pre-existing microhardness differences in surface cuticle cells. Also, the larger number of fibers investigated in the current work allowed for a statistical outcome. This latter study has led to a rather definite conclusion that the scale face is indeed softened by polymeric conditioners such as Polyquaternium-10 (PQ-10). These studies will ultimately help in the development of conditioners with suitable moisturizing and softening effect on hair.
In this study, we have developed a single hair fiber torsional pendulum method to determine the role of the cuticle and the cortex on torsional properties with respect to fiber cross-sectional area, fiber rigidity, and energy dissipation at 65% RH and in the wet state. Our results demonstrate that in fine diameter fibers with a high cuticle-to-cortex ratio, the cuticula exert a significant effect on the torsional deformation behavior of hair fibers at both normal humidities and in the wet condition. In addition, our data indicate that energy dissipation is confined to fibers with a high cuticle-to-cortex ratio, and the amount of energy dissipated becomes more pronounced with increasing water content. The torsional properties of hair spray-treated fibers suggest that the deposited hair spray film masks the properties of the base fiber and imparts its own dissipative character to the measurement. Since tensile mechanical properties are often used to make claims about the performance of hair care products, we have compared the results obtained from torsional and tensile measurements on over-processed bleached hair fibers conditioned with Polyquaternium-10 and cetyl trimethylammonium bromide (CETAB) to evaluate which method is more advantageous. Our data demonstrate that torsional measurements can distinguish hair care products which reinforce the cuticle from those which affect the cortex, while tensile measurements showed no significant differences.
Healthy hair and skin is highly desired. Characterization of their morphological, frictional, and adhesive properties (tribological properties) is essential to enhance understanding of hair and skin and to advance the science. Literature on the tribological characterization of hair and skin is scarce to date. The paper presents nanotribological data and analysis on hair (Caucasian, Asian, and African hair at virgin, chemo-mechanically damaged, and treated conditions) and synthetic hair and skin, as well as roughness data of human skin replica. Roughness statistics are presented to characterize the vertical and spatial surface parameters. Average coefficient of friction values were determined for each ethnicity and hair type, and are discussed. The directionality dependence of friction is also discussed. Magnitude and spatial distribution of adhesive force are used to estimate thickness and distribution of the conditioner film.
Dandruff is a chronic condition of the scalp requiring vigilant treatment to ameliorate the symptoms of scaling and itching. Frequent shampooing is key to controlling these symptoms while contributing to the cosmetic appearance of the hair. The success of the treatment depends not only on the ability of the shampoo to control the dandruff but also on patient compliance engendered by the cosmetic attributes of the shampoo. This double-blind cross-over study enrolled 40 women with mild to moderate dandruff. Following a 1-wk washout with an unmedicated basic cleansing shampoo, all subjects used each of the two study shampoos for 1 wk. Subjects preferred the 1% pyrithione zinc conditioning shampoo over the 2% ketoconazole shampoo by 75% in terms of overall performance. The dermatologist investigator confirmed the subject preference by noting that hair-combing ease, hair smoothness, and hair frizz/flyaway were statistically significantly better in subjects who used the 1% pyrithione zinc conditioning shampoo for 1 wk. This study suggests that hair condition is an important consideration in the treatment of dandruff due to compliance.
Dyeing theories based on the latest research data
- RH Peteres
Análise Química Quantitativa. 6 th ed. Rio de Janeiro: LTC
- D C Harris
Hair care: Textbook of Cosmetic Dermatology
- J Gray
- J Thomas
- R Baran
- HI Maibach
Medida do pH com um eletrodo de vidro. Análise Química Quantitativa
- DC Harris