A Study on The Grunge Fashion of the 1990's and 2000's

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The purpose of this study is to rediscover the hidden value of non-mainstreamers style which has been overlooked for the past decade by investigate the aesthetics and formative features of the Grunge fashion. The Grunge fashion was derived from explosive popularity of the early 90's grunge music. Grunge was the alternative anti-thesis against mainstream pop music and anti-fashion against mainstream fashion. Dirty, rubbish grunge style of the poor street youth and grunge musicians have raised to the high fashion by designers. And These trial of designers made people to notice the value of the non-mainstreamers street style like grunge. Actually, the grunge brought the shock with many argument to the 90's fashion field. But now, It became the classic of the street fashion. And It has potent influence on the music, culture and high fashion. The Grunge is a kind of links between music and fashion, street fashion and high fashion, sub culture and mainstream culture, the past and now. Grunge isn't only a fashion of appearance. It is the attitude of wearing clothes and living a life. Variety grunge style in the international street fashion, high fashion, typical musicians's fashion of the 1990's and the 2000's was researched for this study. These materials were gathered from music magazines, fashion magazines, movies, musics and books. As a results of analysis, Grunge has the formative features like mix & match, layering, patchwork, primitive edge, rag, retro, recycle, kinderwhore, sneer scribbling, disheveled hair. Grunge also has the Aesthetic features like the beauty of symbiosis. For the last 10 years, These features changed our fashion be more pluralistic and dynamic.

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... Sohn and Park (2005) and Kim (2002) researched subcultural punk style, and identified its influence on the high fashion. In addition, Chung and Guem (2005) analyzed grungy style in the street fashion, high fashion, and musician's fashion, and Kim et al. (2001) examined hip-hop fashion based on its culture. However, most prior studies mainly focused on the subcultures in the United States and the United Kingdom, and not much attention was given to the Korean youth. ...
The purpose of this study is to understand the Tecktonik culture and fashion, and to compare its features in Korea and France. Unlike prior studies which mainly dealt with subcultures in the U. S. and the U. K., this study paid attention to the condition of Korea. Tecktonik is a dance and music craze that originated in France in 2000, and spread worldwide via the Internet. The main features of Tecktonik fashion are slim fit, vivid colors, and high-top sneakers, which represent current fashion and culture trends, and express the feeling of Tecktonik music and dance. Compared to France, Korean Tecktonik fashion emphasizes sexual attraction of women with short skirt, while men are conservative about mohican hairstyle and dark make-up. In France, Tecktonik has become a sound social amusement, while in Korea it has been used for advertisements or entertainer`s fashion style. The subcultural characteristics of Tecktonik were identified as playfulness, the active use of digital media, and high commercial value. In France where Tecktonik is for participating in a joyful dance, playfulness is prominent, and in Korea where Tecktonik acts as a visual entertainment, commercial value is outstanding. It has made differences in Tecktonik fashion of the two countries.
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This paper traces how the international music press used the clothing and appearance of the Irish blues/rock musician Rory Gallagher to mythologize him as the “People’s Guitarist.” I explore how this image was constructed and developed over time, as well as Gallagher’s own response to this mythologization and how it has consolidated since his death in 1995. I argue that Gallagher’s unwillingness to compromise his integrity and shift his music or clothing to fit changing trends made him an anomaly in an image-conscious music industry. Thus, his appearance became an easy target for the music press who focused overwhelmingly on his clothing in interviews and articles. This focus unfairly drew attention away from his music and downplayed the important contribution he made to the world of blues and rock.
This study analyzes French designer Hedi Slimane who has received recent attention from the fashion world. He changed sub-culture `Rock Fashion` into high fashion and altered the stereotype of the existing menswear with the skinny look. His extreme slim-fit style also has changed the menswear market dramatically. Hedi Slimane was mainly inspired by various rock music genres from the 1960 to 2000s such as glam rock, psychedelic rock, grunge rock, and garage rock. He showed in his own rock style when creating his collection. The collections inspired from the specific rock music and style were selected from Dior Homme (2001F/W-2007F/W) and Saint-Laurent (2013F/W-2015F/W), and analyzed by the 4 genres of rock music and fashion style as follows. First, glam rock style appeared in Dior Homme 2005F/W and Saint Laurent 2014S/S with glamorous full make-up, animal printings, and glitter textures. Second, psychedelic rock style appeared in Saint Laurent 2015S/S with flower patterns, afro hair, fur vests, and western & ethnic bohemian styling. Third, grunge rock style appeared at Dior Homme 2005S/S and Saint Laurent 2013F/W with messedup hair, destroyed jeans, and layering style. Fourth, garage rock style appeared mainly at Dior Homme 2006 S/S with messed-up hair, slim suit, fedora, and sneakers. This result is expected to be used for research and development on modern rock style for contemporary menswear.
The goals of this study are to analyze how fashion professionals` attitudes toward Grunge style have changed since the 1990s and to compare aesthetic features of 1990s Grunge style and the style since 2000. By searching Vogue and Women`s Wear Daily articles from 1992 to 2014 according to the keyword "Grunge", three collections from the 1990s and 59 collections since 2000 were selected for analysis. Although Grunge collections of the 1990s were harshly criticized by critics and retailers as ugly, the more recent collections have been highly praised for both design and profitability. The common aesthetic features of Grunge style in the 1990s and beyond include loose silhouettes, mix-and-match layerings, plaid patterns, floral prints, and striped patterns. However, Grunge style since 2000 has new features such as ornate fabrics, handcrafted details, a formal and dressy look, and faux plaid flannel shirts in chiffon or organza. These features give the style a more luxurious, feminine, and refined appearance. The results of this study indicate that Grunge style of the 1990s changed high fashion beauty standards and today`s designers and consumers prefer to mix various styles to create new ones. They typically do not consider the original spirit or identities of the varied styles.
Icons of fashion : The 20th Century
  • Gerda Buxbaum