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Effects of Ehwa Makgeolli Containing Oriental Herbs on Skin Whitening and Wrinkles

DOI:10.3746/jkfn.2013.42.4.550
Authors:
Sang-Jin Lee
Sang-Jin Lee
Yi-Young Kwon
Yi-Young Kwon
Yi-Young Kwon
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Sung-Won Cho
Sung-Won Cho
Sung-Won Cho
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Hee-Suk Kwon
Hee-Suk Kwon
Hee-Suk Kwon
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Abstract

Extrinsic skin aging is characterized by the loss of skin tone and resilience, irregular pigmentation, and deep wrinkles. The aim of this study was to investigate the effects of Ehwa Makgeolli containing oriental herbs (Glycyrrhiza uralensis Fisch., Lycium chinense MILL., Morus alba L., and Saururus chinensis Baill) on skin whitening and wrinkling in human skin cells. We prepared Makgeolli extracts (HEE) with 70% ethanol. HEE significantly inhibited in vitro mushroom tyrosinase activity and reduced the cellular and secreted melanin content of mouse melanoma melanocytes (B16F1 cells). HEE down-regulated the protein expression of tyrosinase related protein (TRP)-1/-2, a key player in melanogenesis. Treatment with HEE in human keratinoctyes (HaCaT cells) inhibited the proteolytic activities of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-2/-9 in a dose-dependent manner and dramatically reduced the expression of MMP-2/-9. In addition, HEE attenuated lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-induced nitric oxide production in murine macrophages (RAW264.7 cells). These results indicate that HEE may be a great cosmeceutical ingredient for its whitening, anti-wrinkle, and anti-inflammatory effects.
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Antioxidative Activity and Component Analysis of Quercus glauca Leaf Extracts
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In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on elastase, and components of Quercus glauca extracts were investigated. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity of extract I fractions of Quercus glauca leaf was in the order: 50% ethanol extract < ethyl acetate fraction < deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction . Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities of some Quercus glauca leaf extracts on ROS generated in system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The order of ROS scavenging activity was 50% ethanol extract < deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction < ethyl acetate fraction . Ethyl acetate fraction showed the most prominent scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract / fractions of Quercus glauca leaf on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The Quercus glauca leaf extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a dose dependent manner, particularly deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction exhibited the most prominent celluar protective effect , 398.67 min at ). Aglycone fractions obtained from the deglycosylation reaction of ethyl acetate fraction among the Quercus glauca leaf extracts, showed 2 bands in TLC and 2 peaks in HPLC experiments (360 nm) as well. Two components were identified as quercetin (55.77%), and kaempferol (44.23 %). TLC chromatogram of ethyl acetate fraction of Quercus glauca leaf extracts revealed 6 bands , Among them, isoquercitrin (QG3), hyperin (QG4), and rutin (QG6) were identified. The inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction on tyrosinase and elastase was high. These results indicate that extract / fractions of Quercus glauca can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. And component analysis of Quercus glauca leaf extract and inhibitory activity on tyeisinase and elastase of the aglycone fraction could be applicable to new functional cosmetics.
The Evaluation of Anti-wrinkle Effects in Oriental Herb Extract
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The human skin is constantly exposed to environmental irritants such as ultraviolet, smoke and chemicals. Free radicals and reactive oxygen species caused by them play critical roles in cellular damage. They not only injure the skin structure but also participate in the immensely complex inflammatory reaction. Anti-wrinkle effects of the Oriental herb extracts(OHE) were evaluated by the determination of anti-oxidation, collagenase inhibition and collagen synthesis in normal human fibroblast. OHE showed antioxidative activity as high as vitamin C, trolox and DL-penicillamine. Also OHE showed promotive effect on collagen synthesis and inhibitory effect on collagenase activity. These results demonstrated that OHE could be useful as an anti-wrinkle cosmetic ingredient.