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Industria
Textila
ISSN 1222–5347 (177–232)
4/2013
Recunoscutã în România, în domeniul ªtiinþelor inginereºti, de cãtre
Consiliul Naþional al Cercetãrii ªtiinþifice din Învãþãmântul Superior
(C.N.C.S.I.S.), în grupa A /
Aknowledged in Romania, in the engineering sciences domain,
by the National Council of the Scientific Research from the Higher Education
(CNCSIS), in group A
COLEGIUL
DE REDACTIE:
Dr. ing. EMILIA VISILEANU
cerc. şt. pr. gr. I – EDITOR ŞEF
Institutul Naţional de Cercetare-Dezvoltare
pentru Textile şi Pielărie – Bucureşti
Dr. ing. CARMEN GHIŢULEASA
cerc. şt. pr. II
Institutul Naţional de Cercetare-Dezvoltare
pentru Textile şi Pielărie – Bucureşti
Prof. dr. GELU ONOSE
cerc. şt. pr. gr. I
Universitatea de Medicină şi Farmacie
„Carol Davila“ – Bucureşti
Prof. dr. GEBHARDT RAINER
Saxon Textile Research Institute – Germania
Prof. dr. ing. CRIŞAN POPESCU
Institutul German de Cercetare a Lânii – Aachen
Prof. dr. ing. PADMA S. VANKAR
Facility for Ecological and Analytical Testing
Indian Institute of Technology – India
Prof. dr. SEYED A. HOSSEINI RAVANDI
Isfahan University of Technology – Iran
Dr. FRANK MEISTER
TITK – Germania
Prof. dr. ing. ERHAN ÖNER
Marmara University – Istanbul
Dr. ing. FAMING WANG
Lund University – Sweden
Conf. univ. dr. ing. CARMEN LOGHIN
Universitatea Tehnică „Ghe. Asachi“ – Iaşi
Ing. MARIANA VOICU
Ministerul Economiei, Comerţului
şi Mediului de Afaceri
Conf. univ. dr. ing.
LUCIAN CONSTANTIN HANGANU
Universitatea Tehnică „Ghe. Asachi“ – Iaşi
Prof. ing. ARISTIDE DODU
cerc. şt. pr. gr. I
Membru de onoare al Academiei de Ştiinţe
Tehnice din România
Conf. univ. dr. DOINA I. POPESCU
Academia de Studii Economice – Bucureşti
HONGYAN WU, FUMEI WANG
Caracteristicile și factorii care influențează distribuția lungimii
fibrei de capoc 179–183
MARCUS O. WEBER, FARZANA AKTER, ANDREA EHRMANN
Ecranarea câmpurilor magnetice statice cu ajutorul materialelor textile 184–187
ANA VÎRCAN, SAVIN DORIN IONESI, STAN MITU,
ALA DABIJA, LAVINIA CAPMARE
Interdependența dintre parametrii antropometrici specifici
grupei de vârstă 7–10 ani 188–194
HONGXIA JIANG, JIHONG LIU, RURU PAN,
WEIDONG GAO, HONGFU WANG
Autogenerarea unei imagini color pe materiale textile, cu ajutorul FFT 195–203
ABRAMIUC DANKO, CRIȘAN POPESCU, SIMONA DUNCA,
AUGUSTIN MUREȘAN
Îmbunătățirea proprietăților materialelor textile din bumbac,
prin tratarea cu chitosan și săruri metalice 204–209
OKSAN ORAL, M. CETIN ERDOGAN, ESRA DIRGAR
Relația dintre tipurile de modele și parametrii conecși 210–216
MIHAELA CARP, AUREL POPP
Influenţa artei tradiţionale în creaţia vestimentară actuală 217–221
IOANA CORINA MOGA, FLOAREA PRICOP, MARIUS IORDĂNESCU,
RĂZVAN SCARLAT, ANGELA DOROGAN
Monitorizarea calității apelor uzate, generate de industria textilă 222–228
DOCUMENTARE 221, 229-231
ANIVERSARE 232
Editatã în 6 nr./an, indexatã ºi recenzatã în:
Edited in 6 issues per year, indexed and abstracted in:
Science Citation Index Expanded (SciSearch®), Materials Science
Citation Index®, Journal Citation Reports/Science Edition, World Textile
Abstracts, Chemical Abstracts, VINITI, Scopus
RevistãcotatãISI ºi inclusãîn Master Journal List a Institutului pentru
ªtiinþa Informãrii din Philadelphia – S.U.A., începând cu vol. 58,
nr. 1/2007/
ISI rated magazine, included in the ISI Master Journal List of the Institute
of Science Information, Philadelphia, USA, starting with vol. 58, no. 1/2007
¸
˘
177
industria textila
2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
˘
178
industria textila
2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
˘
MHONGYAN WU
FUMEI WANG
MARCUS O. WEBER
FARZANA AKTER
ANDREA EHRMANN
ANA VÎRCAN
SAVIN DORIN IONESI
STAN MITU, ALA DABIJA
LAVINIA CAPMARE
HONGXIA JIANG, JIHONG LIU
RURU PAN, WEIDONG GAO
HONGFU WANG
ABRAMIUC DANKO
CRIȘAN POPESCU
SIMONA DUNCA
AUGUSTIN MUREȘAN
OKSAN ORAL
M. CETIN ERDOGAN
ESRA DIRGAR
MIHAELA CARP
AUREL POPP
IOANA CORINA MOGA
FLOAREA PRICOP
MARIUS IORDĂNESCU
RĂZVAN SCARLAT
ANGELA DOROGAN
DOCUMENTARE
ANIVERSARE
179
184
188
195
204
210
217
222
221, 229
232
Features and influencing factors of kapok fiber length distribution
Shielding of static magnetic fields by textiles
Interdependence between anthropometric parameters
specific for the age group 7-10 years
Auto-generation color image for fabric based on FFT
Improving cotton textile materials properties by treating with
chitosan and metallic salts
The relationship between model types and related parameters
The influence of traditional art in the current fashion design
Quality monitoring for wastewater generated by the textile finishing
Documentation
Anniversary
Revista „INDUSTRIA TEXTILÓ, Institutul Naþional de Cercetare-Dezvoltare
pentru Textile ºi Pielãrie – Bucureºti
Redacþia (Editura CERTEX), administraþia ºi casieria: Bucureºti, str. Lucreþiu Pãtrăºcanu nr. 16, sector 3, tel.: 021-340.42.00, 021-340.02.50/226, e-mail:
certex@ns.certex.ro; Fax: +4021-340.55.15. Pentru abonamente, contactaþi redacþia revistei. Instituþiile pot achita abonamentele în contul nostru de vira-
ment: RO25RNCB0074029214420001 B.C.R. sector 3, Bucureºti.
Lucrare realizatã în colaborare cu Editura AGIR, Calea Victoriei nr. 118, sector 1, Bucureºti, tel./fax: 021-316.89.92; 021-316.89.93;
e-mail: editura@agir.ro, www.edituraagir.ro
Referenþii articolelor publicate în acest numãr al revistei INDUSTRIA TEXTILÃ/
Scientific reviewers for the papers published in this number:
Cerc. şt. gr. I prof. dr. ing./ Senior researcher prof. dr. eng CĂRPUŞEFTALEA
Cerc. şt. gr. I dr. ing./ Senior researcher dr. eng. EMILIA VISILEANU
Cerc. şt. gr. III dr. ing./ Senior researcher dr. eng. ALINA POPESCU
Cerc.
ş
t. dr. ing./ Senior researcher dr. eng. OLARU SABINA
Cerc. şt. drd. ing. gr. II / Senior researcher eng. CLAUDIA NICULESCU PhD
Cerc. şt. gr. III ing./ Senior researcher eng. DOINA TOMA PhD
Cercet. şt. mat./ Senior researcher mat. MIHAI STAN
Drd. ing./ Eng. GEORGETA POPESCU PhD
Biolog/ Biologist CLARA RĂDULESCU
Contents
industria textila
2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
˘
With the depletion of oil resources as well as envi-
ronmental harm caused by chemical fiber, more
people favor natural fibers like cotton, wool, silk and
linen. However, increment of the four natural fibers is
very limited. Thus, recently, a new natural fiber,
namely kapok fiber, is developed and applied.
Kapok is a tropical tree of the family Bombacaceae
[1], mainly widespread in Indonesia and Southeast
Asia. Currently applied kapok mainly referred to
Bombax malabaricum, Gaeritn Bombax insignis and
Ceiba Pentandra [2, 3]. Every year, kapoks can bear,
as shown in figure 1, green fruits, in which fibers
grow, are immature kapok fruits. After fruits are
mature, kapok fibers can be extracted to be used in
textiles. The high hollowness, about 80 – 90%, is the
most significant feature of kapok fibers [4], as shown
in figure 2 a. From figure 2 b, it is seen that both
ends of the fiber are closed [4]. So, kapok fibers are
often used as a stuffing material, buoyancy material
and oil-absorbing material. In recent years, with the
development of spinnability, kapok fibers could be
blended with other cellulose fibers [5] and a variety of
blends are available.
It is known that length is one of the most important
parameters of fibers because it has effects on yarn
strength, yarn hairiness, the properties of fabrics and
the efficiency of the yarn spinning process. Therefore,
REZUMAT – ABSTRACT
Caracteristicile și factorii care influențează distribuția lungimii fibrei de capoc
În scopul furnizării unor informații utile pentru procesarea, prelucrarea și filarea fibrelor de capoc, lucrarea s-a axat pe
studierea lungimii fibrelor din fructe. S-a analizat structura internă a fructelor de capoc și s-a descoperit faptul că fibrele
cu lungime mai mare pot fi separate din fructe cu mai multă ușurință. În urma măsurării lungimii fibrelor, s-au obținut
caracteristicile distribuției lungimii fibrelor de capoc. Diagrama aranjamentului este o distribuție continuă, iar distribuția
lungime-număr de fibre este una distorsionată, similară cu cea a bumbacului. De asemenea, au fost analizați factorii
care influențează lungimea fibrei. Rezultatele au arătat că fructul speciei de capoc de pe insula Hainan este, în mod
evident, mai mic decât cel din Java cu aproximativ 5 mm. Lungimea fructelor poate influența lungimea fibrei, pe când
perimetrul de mijloc al fructelor și locul de creștere nu afectează lungimea acesteia.
Cuvinte-cheie: fibre de capoc, distribuția lungimii fibrei, specie, mărimea fructelor, locul creșterii
Features and influencing factors of kapok fiber length distribution
In order to supply useful information for kapok fiber planting, processing and spinning, this study focused on length of
fibers in fruits. The internal structure of kapok fruit was analyzed to find that fibers with longer length could be separat-
ed easily from fruits. By testing fibers length, features of kapok fiber length distribution were obtained. Arrangement dia-
gram is continuous distribution and fiber length-number distribution is all skewed distribution, similar with those of cot-
ton. Moreover, influencing factors of fiber length were analyzed. The results show Hainan Island kapok is obviously
shorter than that of Java kapok about 5 mm. Fruit length could impact on fiber length; middle perimeter of fruit and
growth site do not affect fiber length.
Key-words: kapok fiber, fiber length distribution, breed, fruit size, growth site
Features and influencing factors of kapok fiber length distribution
HONGYAN WU FUMEI WANG
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Fig. 1. Kapok tree Fig. 2. Kapok fiber: a– hollow structure; b– end of fiber
a b
in order to apply kapok fiber on textile well, it is nec-
essary to obtain the basic information about kapok
fiber length. However, at present, there is little research
about features of kapok fiber length-distribution and
factors which may affect fiber length. To solve this
problem, in this paper, first, structure of kapok fruit
was analyzed to provide a method by which longer
fibers can be extracted from kapok fruits. Second,
kapok fibers, from Java in Indonesia and Hainan
Island in China, were tested to get features of fiber
length distribution. Third, factors which may affect the
fiber length were analyzed. These researches pro-
vide useful information for planting, processing and
spinning of kapok fibers.
ANALYSIS OF THE STRUCTURE OF KAPOK FRUIT
In order to clarify the fiber distribution in kapok fruit,
in this section, the mature kapok fruit was observed.
It is slender column in shape (fig. 3 a), 150–300 mm
in length, about 150 mm of middle perimeter. The pod
of the kapok fruit is hard, light brown and had uneven
striae in surface.
When the fruit was opened along the central axis,
fiber bundles are found, which grow in the inner wall
with about 10 mm thickness (fig. 3 b) and shaded
area of figure 3 e. In the middle of pod, there are
short staples and seeds divided into five ventricles
with same structure by wooden walls (fig. 3 e). The
wooden wall adheres to short fibers named short sta-
ples which enclosed seeds (fig. 3 c).
It was observed that fibers in the fruit can be divided
into two parts: the first part is the fiber bundle. They
tightly folded, densely piled on the inner wall. The
fiber bundle extracted from pod is umbrella structure
whose one end was orderly and the other is fluffy
(fig. 3 d). Fiber bundles are mostly 10 – 25 mm in
length. Also, they have little adhesion to short staple
and seeds. Each fruit can pack about 12 – 15 g fiber
bundles. The second part is short staple in the middle
of fruit. They adhere to wooden wall (fig. 3 c) and are
mostly 6 – 10 mm in length. They also have little adhe -
sion to seeds.
The kapok fiber is different from the cotton fiber. The
cotton fiber is seed fiber formed from epidermis cell
and adheres to seeds. However, the kapok fiber is
fruit fiber. They adhere to the inner wall of fruit,
formed from in wall cell and are loosely held to the
seed. Cotton fibers are separated from the seed by
the ginning process while kapok fibers are separated
just by shaking [6]. Also, fiber bundles have little
adhesion to short staple, so the two parts can be sep-
arated easily. Therefore, processing factory can get
only fibers bundles with longer length by separating
them from kapok fruits.
FEATURES OF FIBER LENGTH DISTRIBUTION
Sample
Two kapok fruits from Java in Indonesia were marked
as 1 # and 2 #, and two fruits of Hainan Island in
China were marked as I # and II #. Only fiber bundles
in fruits were extracted and measured.
Test method
Single fiber measurement method is the most accu-
rate method for fiber length test, so it was selected to
test length of fiber inside kapok fruit. Single fiber
measurement method was as follows: pick up single
fiber with tweezers, drag it on velvet board to straight
it and measure it with a scale reading one decimal.
Each experiment tested about 500 fibers [7]. Each of
the fruits is zoned in three parts: head, middle and
tail. Each part is about one third of the whole fruit, as
shown in figure 4. Fiber length of each part was mea-
sured, respectively.
RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS
Arrangement diagram
Length of fiber was uneven. Importing the data of
fiber length measured by Single fiber measurement
method into computer, the fiber length could be
arranged from long to short, final arrangement dia-
gram, also called bear diagram, could be obtained
(fig. 5).
Figure 5 shows that fiber length arrangement of Java
and Hainan Island kapok is continuous distribution
from long to short fiber, similar with cotton and having
the notable feature of natural fiber distribution.
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industria textila
2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
˘
Fig. 3. Structure of kapok fruit
a
d
b
ce
Fig. 4. Zoned three parts of kapok fruit
a
b
c
d
Fiber length-number distribution histogram
The length data above were grouped with interval
2 mm. The length less than 4.5 mm was grouped as
the first group. The number of fiber with length more
than 30 mm was relatively little, so the length more
than 30.5 mm belonged to a group. Finally fiber
length-number distribution could be obtained and
showed in figure 6.
Figure 6 shows that fiber length-number distributions,
in different parts and different breeds of kapok fruit,
are all skewed distribution, and similar with those of
cotton. From figure 6, it also can be seen that fiber
length of Java 1 # and 2 # is mainly ranged from 15.5
to 27.5 mm and 17.5 to 29.5 mm, respectively, and
fiber length of Hainan Island I # and II # is mainly
ranged from 12 to 20 mm and 16 to 28 mm, respec-
tively. It is readily seen that in different parts and
breeds, fiber length is different, so it is necessary to
analyze factors which may impact fiber length.
Therefore, several possible factors will be analyzed
bellow.
ANALYSIS OF THE FACTORS AFFECTING
THE FIBER LENGTH
Kapok breeds
Java in Indonesia and Hainan Island in China are
main kapok growing area. Java Kapok belongs to
a
b
c
d
Ceiba pentandra and Hainan Island kapok belongs to
Panzhihua kapok, which are main kapok breeds.
Based on above fiber length measurement, the aver-
age length of the two breeds was calculated, as shown
in table 1. Also, weight percentage of fibers longer
than 16 mm, were calculated, as shown in table 2.
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
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Fig. 6. Histogram of fiber length-number distribution:
a– Java kapok 1 #; b– Java kapok 2 #; c– Hainan
Island kapok I #; d– Hainan Island kapok II #
Fig. 5. Arrangement diagram of fiber length:
a– Java kapok 1 #; b– Java kapok 2 #; c– Hainan
Island kapok I #; d– Hainan Island kapok II #
From table 1, it is seen that average length of Java
kapok is mainly ranged from 20.0 to 25.0 mm, and
that of Hainan Island kapok is mainly ranged from
15.0 to 20.0 mm. So, fiber average length of Hainan
Island kapok is shorter than Java kapok fiber’s about
5 mm. From table 2, we know that weight percentage
of fibers longer than 16 mm of Hainan Island is lower
than Java kapok’s. Therefore, Java kapok fiber is
more useful than Hainan Island kapok fiber in textile
application, and Java kapok should be spread in
planting industry.
Fruit size
Five kapok fruits from Java in Indonesia were marked
as 1 # to 5 #. The fruit size was shown in table 3.
These fibers length were tested by Single fiber mea-
surement method, as shown in table 4.
According to the data in table 3 and table 4, figure 7
was drawn to analyze the relationship of fiber length
and fruit size. The regression equation is significant
by significance test of the linear regression. This indi-
cates the fiber is longer as the fruit is longer. Figure 7
also shows fiber length has no relation with middle
perimeter of fruit. So, if you want to get longer fibers,
you can choose longer kapok fruits. The relationship
has some referential value on purchasing kapok
fruits.
Growth size in kapok fruit
Table 4 shows fiber length is different in head, middle
and tail. To compare fiber length of the three parts,
the data of table 4 were paired for significance test in
table 5.
Take significance level: a= 0.05, t1 – a/2 (n – 1) =
=t1–0.025 (4) = 2.7764, in table 5, three statistics are
all less than 2.7764. It shows fiber length of the three
parts has no significant difference. So there is no
need of taking into account length difference in
growth size.
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
˘
Table 1
Table 2
Table 3
Table 4
Fig. 7. Relationship of fiber length and fruit size
a
b
AVERAGE LENGTH OF THE TWO BREEDS, mm
Sample Average
length Sample Average
length
1 # head 21.0 I # head 14.8
1 # middle 21.7 I # middle 15.2
1 # tail 20.0 I # tail 15.1
2 # head 24.0 II # head 19.7
2 # middle 23.5 II # middle 19.4
2 # tail 23.0 II # tail 19.3
WEIGHT PERCENTAGE OF FIBERS LONGER
THAN 16 mm, %
Sample Weight per-
centage Sample Weight per-
centage
1 # head 81.4 I # head 39.2
1 # middle 86.4 I # middle 35.2
1 # tail 78.8 I # tail 38.6
2 # head 92.6 II # head 72.5
2 # middle 89.9 II # middle 73.1
2 # tail 92.8 II # tail 78.5
KAPOK FRUIT SIZE
Numbers Length of fruit,
mm
Length of middle
perimeter, mm
1 # 230 165
2 # 204 156
3 # 226 158
4 # 280 156
5 # 188 158
FIBER LENGTH, mm
Numbers Fiber length
head middle tail average
1 # 21.60 22.00 20.60 21.40
2 # 20.42 20.36 20.99 20.59
3 # 19.80 21.00 20.20 20.30
4 # 22.50 22.16 22.38 22.35
5 # 19.76 20.22 19.07 19.68
CONCLUSIONS
In order to provide basic information for kapok plant-
ing, purchasing and processing, this study focused
on kapok fiber length. Main conclusions obtained are
following:
•The internal structure of kapok fruit could be divid-
ed into two parts: fiber bundle and combination of
short staple and seeds, and they had little adhe-
sion. Therefore, it provides a way in which fiber
bundle and short staple could be separated easi-
ly, and longer fibers could be obtained. It is very
useful for factory to process kapok fibers.
•By fiber length measurement, features of kapok
fiber length distribution were obtained. Arrangement
diagram presents continuous distribution from long
to short fiber, and fiber length-number distribution
is skewed distribution. So, kapok fiber length has
the notable features of natural fiber distribution.
•Factors that may affect fiber length were ana-
lyzed. The results show fiber average length of
Hainan Island kapok is shorter than Java kapok
fiber’s about 5 mm, and weight percentage of
fibers longer than 16 mm of Hainan Island is lower
than Java kapok’s; usually the fiber is longer as
the fruit is longer; middle perimeter of fruit and
grow site do not affect fiber length.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
This work was supported by “the Fundamental Research
Funds for the Central Universities” in China.
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
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Table 5
BIBLIOGRAPHY
[1] Keko, H., Maxima, E. F., Shigenori, K. Thi bach tuyet lam and Kenji Iiyama. In: The Japan Wood Research Society,
2000, vol. 46, p. 401
[2] Hong, X., Wei, Y. D., Mei, S. W. Characters and application prospects of kapok fiber. In: Journal of Donghua
University: Natural Science Edition, 2005, vol. 31, issue 2, p. 121
[3] Chinese Academy of Sciences: China flora Editorial Committee. Flora of China (forty-ninth volumes second fasci-
cule). Science press, Beijing, 1984, p. 102–111
[4] Wei, L. Kapok battings and its thermal insulation properties. Donghua University, 2011, p. 19
[5] Mei, S. W., Hong, X., Wei, Y. D. The fine structure of the kapok fiber. In: Textile Research Journal, 2010, vol. 80,
issue 2, p. 159
[6] Mwaikambo, L. Y. Review of the history, properties and application of plant fibers. In: African Journal of Science
and Technology (AJST), Science and Engineering Series, 2006, vol. 7, issue 2, p. 126
[7] GB/T 16257-2008. Textile fibers – Test method for length and length distribution of staple fibers – Measurement of
single fibers. China Standards Publishing House, Beijing, 2008
SIGNIFICANCE TEST
Kapok fruits 1 # 2 # 3 # 4 # 5 # Average
Sample
standard
deviation
Statistic
Head-middle –0.40 0.06 –1.20 0.34 –0.46 –0.33 0.5873 1.2640
Middle-tail 1.40 –0.63 0.80 –0.22 1.15 0.50 0.8829 1.2663
Head-tail 1.00 –0.57 –0.40 0.12 0.69 0.17 0.6772 0.5547
Kapok fruits 1 # 2 # 3 # 4 # 5 # average
sample
standard
deviation
statistic
Authors:
HONGYAN WU
FUMEI WANG
Donghua University – College of textiles
Room 4007, Bld. G 6, 2999 North Renmin Road
Songjiang District, Shanghai – China
e-mail: hongye419@gmail.com
Corresponding author:
FUMEI WANG
e-mail: wfumei@dhu.edu.cn
People working under high-voltage power lines, at
micro wave ovens, or in research laboratories can
be shielded from high-frequency electro-magnetic
fields by protective clothing with conductive parts
[1–4]. Low-frequency and static magnetic fields,
however, can only be shielded by materials of high
permeability. Such fields occur, e. g., in mains trans-
formers, motors, oscilloscopes, strong laboratory
magnets etc.
The magnetic permeability (magnetic conductivity) of
a material is a measure of the material’s ability to
support the formation of a magnetic field in it, i.e. the
magnetization built up in a material due to an applied
magnetic field. Mathematically, this relation can be
described as:
B= H(1)
where:
Bis the magnetic induction, Gauss (G);
H– the magnetic field, Oersted (Oe);
– the permeability.
While for diamagnetic and paramagnetic materials,
the permeability, , can be calculated as:
= B / H (2)
The permeability is no longer constant for ferromag-
netic or superparamagnetic materials. For these mate-
rials, equation (2) has to be changed into the
derivation:
= dB / dH(3)
Equation (3) shows that the permeability of ferro-
magnetic materials is – for a typical shape of a ferro-
magnetic hysteresis loop – highest near the coercive
field.
The shielding factor is defined as following equation
(4):
S = Bwithout / Bwith (4)
where:
Bwithout represents the magnetic induction before the
magnetic shielding material is introduced;
Bwith – the magnetic induction when the shielding is
being used.
The shielding factor, as the value of the reduction of
the magnetic induction by a shielding material, is lar-
ger than 1 for ferromagnetic materials. It can also be
expressed in % or in dB. On the other hand, for a
Shielding of static magnetic fields by textiles
MARCUS O. WEBER FARZANA AKTER
ANDREA EHRMANN
REZUMAT – ABSTRACT
Ecranarea câmpurilor magnetice statice cu ajutorul materialelor textile
Câmpurile magnetice statice și de joasă frecvență pot să apară în transformatoarele de rețea, motoare, osciloscoape,
magneți puternici de laborator etc. Aceste câmpuri pot fi ecranate doar cu ajutorul unor materiale cu permeabilitate
ridicată. În cazul câmpurilor magnetice slabe, μ-metal sau Metglas posedă o permeabilitate foarte mare, ceea ce
conduce la factori de ecranare ridicați. Cu toate acestea, niciunul dintre cele două materiale nu este potrivit pentru
câmpuri intense, deoarece permeabilitatea magnetică, care este dependentă de intensitatea câmpului magnetic, scade
semnificativ în cazul câmpurilor magnetice cu valoarea de aproximativ 1 oersted sau mai mare. În experimentele
efectuate, au fost integrate fire metalice fine și fire din diferite materiale magnetice în structuri textile tricotate din urzeală.
Aceste materiale au fost înfășurate pe cilindri cu un anumit diametru și s-a măsurat factorul de ecranare în intervalul
± 100 Oe. Indicatorii de protecție s-au dovedit a fi mult mai mici decât valorile unei bare realizate din oțel solid, dar, cu
toate acestea, experimentele efectuate arată că, în principiu, ecranarea câmpurilor magnetice statice cu ajutorul
materialelor textile magnetice este posibilă.
Cuvinte-cheie: câmpuri magnetice statice, ecranare, textile magnetice, anizotropii magnetice
Shielding of static magnetic fields by textiles
Low-frequency and static magnetic fields occur, e.g., in mains transformers, motors, oscilloscopes, strong laboratory
magnets etc. They can be shielded only by materials of high permeability. For weak magnetic fields, μ-metal or Metglas
have very high permeabilities leading to large shielding factors. However, both materials are not suited for larger fields,
since the field-dependent permeability decreases significantly for magnetic fields of about 1 Oersted (Oe) or higher. In
our experiments, we integrated metallic fine yarns fine and yarns from different magnetic materials into warp-knitted
fabrics. These fabrics were formed into cylinders of defined diameter. The shielding factor was measured in the field
range of ± 100 Oe. Shielding ratios were found to be much lower than values of a solid steel bar; however, these exper-
iments point out that shielding of static magnetic fields with magnetic textiles is possible in principle.
Key-words: static magnetic fields, shielding, magnetic textiles, magnetic anisotropies
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long hollow cylinder in a transverse magnetic field,
the shielding factor can be calculated as:
S= rd / D (5)
where:
dis the material thickness of the cylinder;
D– the cylinder diameter.
For very weak magnetic fields, -metal or Metglas [5]
have a very high permeability and can thus lead to a
high shielding factor. However, both materials are not
suited for larger fields, since the field-dependent per-
meability decreases significantly for magnetizing
fields in the order of magnitude of 1 Oe or higher. For
shielding of larger magnetic fields, materials need
higher coercive fields, i.e. “broader” hysteresis loops.
EXPERIMENTAL PART
Materials used
In our experiments, we integrated fine wires from
stainless steal, nickel, and iron into warp and weft
knitted fabrics as weft threads or as stitches, respec-
tively (fig. 1). These fabrics have been used to form
cylinders of defined diameter. The shielding factor
has been measured in the field region of ±100 Oe by
measuring Bwithout and Bwith in the identical setup.
Sample preparation
The knitted fabrics have been used to produce cylin-
ders of diameter 2 cm with the wires perpendicular or
parallel to the external field (fig. 2). Depending on the
permeability of the wires, the magnetic field lines are
more or less strongly drawn into the cylinder materi-
al, leading to a reduction of the magnetic field inside
the cylinders and a respective deformation of the field
lines.
RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS
While the shielding effect of stainless steel staple
fiber yarn has turned out to be too small to be mea-
sured accurately, the samples containing different
magnetic wires showed significant shielding effects.
In order to depict the influence of the field-dependent
permeability, measurements for all samples have been
performed during a field sweep from H= +100 Oe →
–100 Oe → +100 Oe.
Figure 3 shows the results of a measurement on
sample with nickel wires of diameter 0.08 mm as
stitches oriented parallel to the external magnetic
field (0°, left panel) or perpendicular to the field lines
(90°, right panel). For magnetic fields numerically
larger than ~30 Oe, the shielding factor Sis ~1, which
means Bwith and Bwithout are nearly identical, thus
there is no shielding effect. For smaller fields, how-
ever, an effect can be seen. Apparently, the direction
of the courses does not show much difference in
shielding, since both graphs – with the stitches ori-
ented parallel or perpendicular to the field lines – look
very similar.
Fig. 1. Weft knitted samples, containing: a – nickel wires of diameter 0.3 mm as
weft threads; b– produced from stainless steel staple fiber yarn
a b
Fig. 2. Cylinders made from knitted samples containing: a – magnetic wires perpendicular (90°) to the external
magnetic field (blue arrows); b– magnetic wires parallel (0°) to the external magnetic field
a b
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This behavior changes significantly for thicker nickel
wires integrated in a non-magnetic knitted fabric as
weft threads (fig. 3). On the one hand, the maximum
shielding factor Sis much larger now (~2.5). On the
other hand, the difference between a wire orientation
parallel to the external magnetic field (fig. 4 a) and
the orientation perpendicular to it (fig. 4 b) is obvious.
This finding can be explained as follows: The wires
parallel to the external magnetic field can “lead” the
magnetic flux along the shielded region, resulting in
less magnetic flux Bwith in the shielded area. If the
wires are perpendicular to the magnetic field lines,
however, the magnetic flux can only be led along
short distances, i.e. inside the wires which have only
a small diameter, compared to the distance between
neighboring wires. Thus, the shielding efficiency
must be smaller in the latter case.
For a comparison of the results of nickel wires with
those of other materials, figure 5 shows the shielding
factors measured for a knitted fabric containing iron
wires of diameter 0.2 mm. Firstly, the maximum shield-
ing factor becomes even larger for iron than for nickel,
although the iron wire diameter is smaller than the
value for the thicker nickel wire (0.3 mm). This shows
that iron has a higher maximum permeability than
nickel.
Secondly, the difference between both sample orien-
tations is smaller for the iron wires. Taking into
account figure 2 ait could be expected that thicker
wires would lead the magnetic flux along larger dis-
tances (i.e. along their diameters) and thus be more
effective for the wires being oriented 90° to the mag-
netic field lines. However, this idea is only valid for
materials with identical form anisotropies, i.e. materials
rotating the magnetization in the respective wires in
the wire directions in the same way. Higher form
anisotropies would decrease the possible ways of the
magnetic flux through a wire oriented perpendicular
to the field lines. Thus, the finding that iron wires show
less difference between both orientations although
Fig. 3. Shielding factors of weft knitted fabrics containing nickel wires of diameter 0.3 mm:
a– weft threads oriented parallel to the external magnetic field (0°);
b– weft threads oriented perpendicular to the field lines (90°)
a b
Fig. 4. Shielding factors of weft knitted fabrics containing nickel wires of diameter 0.08 mm in stitches:
a – the courses oriented parallel to the external magnetic field (0°);
b– the courses oriented parallel perpendicular to the field lines (90°)
a b
they have a smaller diameter points out, that the nick-
el wires have a stronger form anisotropy which tends
to align the magnetization along the wire direction,
while in the iron wires, the magnetization orientation
is less strongly influenced by the wire orientation,
allowing for a better flux conductivity along the wire
diameter.
CONCLUSIONS
In conclusion, we integrated fine wires from different
materials as well as yarns with metallic fibres into
warp-knitted fabrics and formed them into cylinders
of defined diameter.
Depending on the wire diameter, the spaces between
the wires, their orientation, and the material, we
found shielding ratios between 1.3 for fine nickel
wires (0.08 mm) and ~4 for thin iron wires (0.2 mm)
in the field range of ±100 Oe.
These values are relatively low, compared to, e.g., a
solid steel bar reaching values about ten times high-
er; however, these experiments pointed out that
shielding of static magnetic fields with magnetic tex-
tiles is possible in principle. Future research will con-
centrate on experiments with different raw materials
for various magnetic fields.
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Fig. 5. Shielding factors of weft knitted fabrics containing iron wires of diameter 0.2 mm with:
a – weft threads oriented parallel to the external magnetic field (0°);
b– weft threads oriented perpendicular to the field lines (90°)
a b
BIBLIOGRAPHY
[1] Brzezinski, S., Rybicki, T., Karbownik, I., Malinowska, G., Rybicki, E., Szugajew, L., Lao, M., Sledzinska, K. Textile
multi-layer systems for protection against electromagnetic radiation. In: Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 2009,
vol. 17 , issue 73, pp. 66-71
[2] Mac, T., Houis, S., Gries, T. Faserstoff-Tabellen nach P.-A. Koch. Metallfasern, 1st edition, Deutscher Fachverlag
GmbH, 2004
[3] Sonehara, M., Noguchi, S., Kurashina, T., Sato, T., Yamasawa, K., Miura, Y. Development of an electromagnetic
wave shielding textile by electroless Ni-based alloy plating. In: IEEE Transactions on magnetics, 2009, vol. 45,
issue 10, pp. 4 173-4 175
[4] Sonehara, M., Sato, T., Takasaki, M., Konishi, H., Yamasawa, K., Miura, Y. Preparation and characterization of
nanofiber nonwoven textile for electromagnetic wave shielding. In: IEEE Transactions on magnetics, 2008, vol. 44,
issue 11, pp. 3 107-3 110
[5] Malkowski, S., Adhikari, R., Hona, B., Mattie, C., Woods, D., Yan, H., Plaster, B. Technique for high axial shielding
factor performance of large-scale, thin, open-ended, cylindrical Metglas magnetic shields. In: Review of Scientific
Instruments, 2011, vol. 82, issue 7, p. 075-104
[6] Sasada, I., Yamamoto, T., Yamauchi, T. Large shielding factor obtained by a multiple-shell magnetic shield having
separate magnetic shaking. In: Journal of Applied Physics, 1996, vol. 79, issue 8, pp. 5 490-5 492
Authors:
MARCUS O. WEBER
FARZANA AKTER
ANDREA EHRMANN
Faculty of Textile and Clothing Technology
Niederrhein University of Applied Sciences
Webschulstr. 31
41065 Mönchengladbach, Germany
e-mail: marc.weber@hsnr.de
The researchers from the field of clothing design
show the use of correlations between different
anthropometric sizes, noticing a strong connection
within the parameters of the same orientation, unlike
the dimensions with other orientations [1 – 4].
The aim of the paper is testing the dependencies
among different anthropometrical sizes and the
development of mathematical models for determining
the secondary dimensions of the same orientation,
which could better characterize the body shape.
The anthropometric dimensions necessary for this
study were taken according to SR 5279/2008 specifi-
cations, respectively SR ISO 13402-1/2002, by direct
measurement of the body, on a sample of 393 chil-
dren (194 girls and 199 boys).
Based on the data collected the paper aims to estab-
lish interdependency relations between main body
dimensions: body height – Îc, chest perimeter – Pb,
waist perimeter – Pt, hip perimeter – Psand sec-
ondary dimensions – cervical height point – Îcerv,
waist height – Îlt, hip height – îf, hip fold height –
îpl sf, knee height – îg, corresponding to rectilinear
sizes and back waist length taking into account the
proeminence of the blade bone – LT, front waist
length – Ltf, shoulder length – lu, shoulder to elbow
length – Lbr, arm length – Lm sup, trouser length –
Le.m.inf.,waist to floor – Lant.T-S, inside upper leg
length – Lint.m.inf., cross back width – ls, chest width –
lb, head perimeter – Pc, neckline perimeter – Ppg,
upper arm perimeter – Pbr, wrist perimeter – Pam,
thigh perimeter – Pcps, knee perimeter – Pg, ankle
perimeter – Pgl corresponding to curved sizes.
The description manner from the body and the posi-
tioning of the anthropometric sizes taken into the
study are illustrated in figure 1.
In order to obtain the dependencies between the
anthropometric sizes studied was used the regres-
sion and correlation analysis, which is made in 2 steps:
Interdependence between anthropometric parameters
specific for the age group 7–10 years
ANA VÎRCAN ALA DABIJA
SAVIN DORIN IONESI LAVINIA CAPMARE
STAN MITU
REZUMAT – ABSTRACT
Interdependența dintre parametrii antropometrici specifici grupei de vârstă 7–10 ani
Fenomenul de creştere şi dezvoltare este un fenomen neuniform, care se desfăşoară în ritmuri diferite. În lucrare sunt
evidenţiate relaţiile necesare unei proiectări constructive, pornind de la datele antropometrice selectate pe un eşantion
de 393 de copii (194 de fete şi 199 de băieţi), având la bază algoritmul de stabilire a interdependenţelor cu alte
dimensiuni, care au aceeaşi orientare față de corp. Datele centralizate în tabele, împreună cu coeficienţii de corelaţie,
atestă veridicitatea rezultatelor cercetării teoretice şi experimentale. Scopul lucrării îl constituie determinarea de -
pendenţelor dintre diferite mărimi antropometrice şi elaborarea unor modele matematice, în vederea determinării
dimensiunilor secundare, care să caracterizeze cât mai bine forma corpului. Analiza dependenţelor vizează fundamen-
tarea unor modele matematice stabilite pe baza ecuaţiilor de regresie, care sunt utile în proiectarea constructivă a
produselor vestimentare pentru copii.
Cuvinte-cheie: corelaţii, interdependenţă, testare, analize comparative
Interdependence between anthropometric parameters specific
for the age group 7–10 years
Children’s growth and development is an irregular phenomenon that takes place with different rhythms. Based on
anthropometric data obtained by measuring a sample of 393 children (194 girls and 199 boys) and taking into consid-
eration the algorithm for establishing the interdependencies’ sizes with the same orientation on the body, in the paper
are revealed the relationships selected and useful in constructive design. The data summarized in the tables along with
the correlation coefficients show the veridical results of theoretical and experimental research. The aim of the paper is
to determine the dependencies between different anthropometric sizes and the development of mathematical models in
order to determine the secondary dimensions which characterize as well as possible the body shape. The analysis of
the dependencies is intended for putting the base of the mathematical models established from the regression equa-
tions used in the constructivist design of children’ clothing.
Key-words: correlations, interdependency, testing, comparative analysis
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highlighting the existence of the correlation and–
also its meaning through correlation parameters;
determining the mathematical model that express-–
es in the best way the connection between the
analysed sizes through regression study.
The algorithm is staggered while applying it and the
results obtained are graphically marked, this leading
to the centralized and comparative data useful not
only for body description but also for constructivist
design.
RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS
The correlation and regression analysis was made
using specialized software programs SPSS 18 and
Jardel Table Curves 3D, the experimental data base
is followed by symbols included in figure 1.
Before establishing simple and multiple regression
equations, that can reveal as better as possible the
connection between the anthropometric sizes anal-
ysed, it is imposed the graphical testing consisting in
an axial system of rectangular coordination for the
experimental pairs of values intended for correlation.
The representation of the points in the graphic is
called “points cloud”. The repartition offers informa-
tion about the existence of the correlation between
the analysed sizes, the direction and their intensity.
Afterwards was established the correlation coeffi-
cients that could express the dependency of the anal-
ysed sizes but also testing these coefficients for the
validity of the chosen model.
The signification of the simple correlation coefficients
was tested by reporting it to the signification level p,
that indicates the measure to which we can go wrong
with an affirmation. In practice are often used 2 levels
of significations: level 0.01 (1% error) and level 0.05
(5% error). In practice it is considered an important
statistical test when the level is ≤ 0.05 [5 – 7].
Another method indicated by the mathematical statis-
tics for coefficient correlation testing is by applying
t test and comparing the results obtained with those
from the literature according to the selection volume,
precision imposed and the number of freedom grade
– t(P, f ).If t > (t(P, f )), according to an imposed proba-
bility level, the correlation between the variables is
not random.
For the studied group the researchers from the field
use for the design of children clothing, both simple
but also linear models, and also curved [8, 9].
Choosing the mathematical model to express as bet-
ter as possible the connection between the analysed
sizes differs in the way the unuseful variables are
eliminated.
In the paper were used simple and multiple regres-
sion calculation for the anthropometrical data. The
mathematical models that could better express the
body dimensions for this age group are of the type
[10]:
Yi = b0+ b1x1(1)
Yi = b0+ b1x1+ b2x2+…+ bnxn(2)
Yi = b0+ b1x1+ b2x2+ b3x 2
2+ b4x1x2+
+b
5x1
2+…+ bnx n
n(3)
where:
xirepresents the independent variables;
yi– the value of the dependent variable;
b0,b1 … bn– regression equation coefficients.
The adequacy of mathematical models was calculat-
ed through verifying the significance of determination
coefficient R2 and by using Fisher criteria according
to the relation:
Fcalc = (4)
where:
R2is the determination coefficient;
m– the number of the parameters from the
regression equation;
n– total number of experimental data;
Ftab – critical value for a selected trust level (accord-
ing to Fisher criteria).
Using Jardel Table Curves 3D was determined the
value of multiple correlation coefficient for the ana-
lyzed types, using the following relation:
n
∑(Ym –Y
c)2
i= 1
Ry, x1,x2=√1– (5)
n –
∑(Ym –Y)2
i= 1
where:
Ymis dependent measured value;
Yc– dependent calculated value size;
Y– medium value of the dependent size.
For the secondary dimensions that characterize the
body shape were tested the types of correlation with
body height, bust perimeter, waist perimeter, hips
perimeter as independent variables.
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Fig. 1. Body dimensions measurement
R2
1 – R2
n – m
m –1
From the analysis of the statistical cloud for all types
comes the conclusion that can be accepted the rela-
tion of interdependence of the type:
y = b0+ b1x(6)
where:
yis the regression line between the 2 variables (in
the present case between the pairs of anthropo-
metrical sizes established previously);
b1,b0– the equation coefficients of the regression line.
Before determining the analytical form of the func-
tional dependency it is necessary to verify statistical-
ly the supposed linearity of the connection between
the variables xiand yi.Thus in the beginning it will be
calculated the correlation coefficient with the relation:
n∑xi yi– ∑xi ∑yi
r= (7)
√
[
n∑xi
2–
(
∑xi
)
2
][
n∑yi
2–
(
∑yi
)
2
]
where:
r is the absolute value of correlation coefficient cal-
culated with relation (1);
n– total number of measurements.
The calculated correlation for the analyzed dimen-
sions is significant on a level of p= 0.01.
For all the centralized data in table 1 and table 2,
p< 0.05 this meaning that the connection between
the variables is significant under statistical report.
Beside calculating simple correlation coefficients was
made also the calculation of multiple correlations.
Multiple correlations coefficient can be defined as
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Table 1
Table 2
SIMPLE CORELATION COEFFICENTS BETWEEN MAIN DIMENSIONS AND SECONDARY
DIMENSIONS CORRESPONDING FOR GIRLS SAMPLE
Main dimensions Secondary dimensions
ÎcÎcerv Îlt ÎfÎpl.sf ÎgARS LTLtf lu
Îc1 0.998 0.994 0.989 0.985 0.968 0.903 0.917 0.883 0.897
Pb0.678 0.683 0.663 0.659 0.659 0.644 0.676 0.679 0.671 0.736
Pş0.716 0.717 0.703 0.700 0.698 0.668 0.697 0.695 0.697 0.738
Main dimensions Lbr. Lm.sup. Le.m.inf. Lant.T-S Lint.m.inf. lslbPcPft Pbg
Îc0.930 0.975 0.994 0.994 0.986 0.843 0.826 0.470 0.561 0.647
Pb0.619 0.682 0.663 0.663 0.658 0.955 0.964 0.616 0.713 0.734
Pş0.630 0.694 0.703 0.702 0.697 0.080 0.894 0.600 0.751 0.705
Main dimensions PbPtPşPbr Pam Pcps PgPgl
-
Îc0.678 0.613 0.716 0.691 0.698 0.694 0.767 0.677
Pb1 0.945 0.896 0.851 0.837 0.874 0.866 0.703
Pş0.896 0.870 1 0.848 0.822 0.955 0.932 0.774
SIMPLE CORRELATION COEFFICIENTS BETWEEN MAIN DIMENSIONS AND SECONDARY
DIMENSIONS CORRESPONDING FOR BOYS SAMPLE
Main dimensions Secondary dimensions
ÎcÎcerv Îlt ÎfÎpl.sf ÎgARS LTLtf lu
Îc1 0.998 0.992 0.987 0.984 0.982 0.880 0.899 0.854 0.837
Pb0.672 0.674 0.671 0.669 0.665 0.689 0.630 0.643 0.613 0.786
Pş0.487 0.487 0.496 0.499 0.499 0.532 0.448 0.463 0.429 0.616
Main dimensions Lbr. Lm.sup. Le.m.inf. Lant.T-S Lint.m.inf. lslbPcPft Pbg
Îc0.967 0.973 0.992 0.992 0.983 0.868 0.857 0.509 0.636 0.704
Pb0.627 0.659 0.671 0.672 0.686 0.928 0.937 0.509 0.667 0.723
Pş0.449 0.492 0.495 0.497 0.526 0.786 0.799 0.509 0.633 0.637
Main dimensions PbPtPşPbr Pam Pcps PgPgl
-
Îc0.672 0.487 0.718 0.543 0.675 0.698 0.707 0.732
Pb1 0.910 0.917 0.865 0.743 0.899 0.859 0.587
Pş0.910 1 0.857 0.828 0.635 0.858 0.822 0.486
simple maximum correlation coefficient between the
dependent variable yand a combination of indepen-
dent variable x [16]. A value of Rclose to 0 shows an
insignificant connection from a statistical point of view
as while a value close to 1 shows a significant con-
nection. Because the value of R coefficient tends to
underestimate the connection between the variables
yand xis preferred the coefficient R
2
– the square
coefficient of multiple correlation.
As in the case of linear regression analysis with only
one independent variable for the multiple regression
analysis the main problem is determining the coeffi-
cients b
0
, b
1
,b
2
, ..., b
k
to minimize the square errors
sum of y
i
values compared to y
i
calculated values [4].
The significance of multiple correlation coefficients
for the analysed parameters was determined using t
test. As a result of comparing the values of the test
taken from the literature with the values calculated,
were kept in the relation only the corresponding coef-
ficients for the parameters studied and which have
the inequality t > t
(P= 0.95, v = 4)
= 1.972.
After applying Fisher test on simple and multiple
mathematical models were kept only the models that
had the inequality F
calc
> F
tab
that expresses the con-
nection between the main sizes and the secondary
ones necessary for a complete description of the
body, the best concluding ones being in table 3 and
table 4 for girls sample and boys sample.
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Table 3
MATHEMATICAL MODELS FOR GIRLS SAMPLE
Tested
type
Mathematical model
M1R2Mathematical model
M2R2Propossed
model
Rectilinear sizes
Îcerv Y= 1.040 + 0.827 x10.996 Y= 6.947 + 0.823 x1 +
+ (–0.179) x2 + 0.001 x2^2 0.996 M1
Îlt Y= –4.952 + 0.658 x10.994 Y= –4.904 + 0.667 x1 + (–0.019) x20.988 M2
ÎfY = 3.989 + 0.426 x10.970 Y= (–0.753) + 0.498 x1 + 65.064/ x30.977 M2
Îpl.sf
Y = 12.905 + 0.436 x1+ 0.300 x2 +
+ 0.002 x2^2 0.970 Y= 2.169 + 0.433 x1 + 60.749/ x30.970 M2
ÎgY = –1.181 + 0.298 x1 + 53.196 / x20.937 Y= 0.389 + 0.304 x1 + (–0.020) x30.938 M2
Curved sizes
ARS Y = 1.995 + 0.083 x1 + 0.017 x20.823 Y= 2.090 + 0.083 x1 + 0.013 x30.821 M1
LTY= 3.453 + 0.182 x1 + 0.033 x20.846 Y= –10.952 + 0.407 x1 +
+ (0.0008) x1^2(0.018) x30.845 M1
Ltf Y= 4.627 + 0.167 x10.805 Y= 4.535 + 0.150 x1 + 0.036 x20.789 M1
luY= –1.738 + 0.081 x10.866 Y= –1.651 + 0.068 x1+ 0.022 x30.823 M1
Lbr. Y= –4.515 + 0.233 x10.951 Y= –4.605 + 0.246 x1 + (–0.024) x30.868 M1
Lm.sup. Y= –1.985 + 0.363 x1- + 0.012 0.987 Y= –2 + 0.365 x1 + (–0.004) x30.951 M1
Le.m.inf. Y= –4.405 + 0.652 x10.988 Y= –4.460 + 0.660 x1 + (–0.014) x30.987 M1
Lant.T-S Y= –7.696 + 0.660 x1 + 96.683 / x20.988 Y= 0.056 + 0.661 x1 +
+ (–0.161) x3m + 0.001 x3^2 0.988 M1
Lint.m.inf. Y= –0.605 + 0.470 x1 + 68.866 / x20.972 Y= –0.444 + 0.470 x1 + 65.786 / x30.972 M2
Width
lsY= 5.003 + 0.345 x20.912 Y = –1.121 + 0.089 x1 + 0.256 x20.982 M2
lbY= 3.853 + 0.332 x20.929 Y= –1.290 + 0.074 x1 + 0.257 x20.984 M2
Perimeters
PcY= 42.703 + 0.153 x20.379 Y = 41.563 + 0.016 x1 + 0.136 x20.384 M2
Pbg Y= 17.192 + 0.194 x20.538 Y= 13.771 + 0.049 x1 + 0.144 x20.579 M2
Pbr Y= 2.302 + 0.293 x2- + 0.006 0.723 Y= 5.988 + 0.053 x1 + 0.012 x2 +
+ 0.001 x2^2
0.748 M2
Pam Y = 3.906 + 0.155 x20.701 Y = 1.820 + 0.030 x1 + 0.125 x20.732 M2
Pcps Y= –7.280 + 0.655 x30.912 Y= –8.038 + 0.011 x1 + 0.644 x30.912 M1
PgY = 5.959 + 0.341 x30.869 Y= 2.050 + 0.057 x1 + 0.287 x30.889 M2
Pgl Y= 8.073 + 0.174 x30.599 Y= 5.090 + 0.044 x1 + 0.132 x30.630 M2
For body description were selected three main dimen-
sions, respectively Îc(x1), Pb (x2)as common ones and
the third Pş (x3)for girls and Pt (x4)for boys.
The mathematical models proposed for girls and
boys clothing design are those that assure the best
correspondence between the calculated values and
those measured on the body.
After the analysis of the 2 types of mathematical
models for the girls sample shown in table 5, choos-
ing the appropriate model was made by taking into
account the values of the coefficients of correlation
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Table 5
Table 4
MEDIUM VALUE CALCULATED FOR THE MORPHO-
LOGICAL INDICATORS LTAND ls
AND THE VALUES OBTAINED FROM THE MODELS
Tested
type
Medium
value
measured
The value
calculated with
the model M1
The value
calculated with
the model M2
LT29.65 29.63 30.01
ls32.75 32.25 32.80
MATHEMATICAL MODELS FOR BOYS SAMPLE
Tested
type
Mathematical model
M1R2Mathematical model
M2R2Propossed
model
Rectilinear sizes
Îcerv Y = –1.036 + 0.842 x10.997 Y= 0.279 + 0.279 x1 + (–43.756) / x20.996 M1
Îlt Y= –7.516 + 0.669 x10.985 Y = –7.546 + 0.665 x1 + 0.008 x20.985 M1
ÎfY= –1.807 + 0.506 x10.974 Y= –1.918 + 0.499 x1 + 0.015 x40.974 M1
Îpl.sf Y= 0.181 + 0.447 x1 + (–4.923) / x20.968 Y= –0.071 + 0.442 x1 + 0.014 x40.969 M2
ÎgY= –1.917 + 0.303 x10.967 Y= –2.477 + 0.296 x1 + 0.027 x40.967 M1
Curved sizes
ARS Y= 4.191 + 0.085 x1 + (–56.202)/ x20.778 Y= 2.915 + 0.090 x1 + (–13.386) / x40.775 M1
LTY= 4.253 + 0.200 x10.808 Y= 4.165 + 0.189 x1 + 0.023 x20.811 M2
Ltf Y = 5.732 + 0.167 x10.730 Y= 5.655 + 0.157 x1 + 0.020 x20.732 M2
luY= –1.718 + 0.054 x1 + 0.058 x20.792 Y= –1.736 + 0.0678 x1 + 0.033 x40.757 M1
Lbr. Y= –4.188 + 0.232 x10.936 Y= –6.13 + 0.238 x1 + 64.632 / x20.936 M1
Lm.sup. Y= –2.922 + 0.371 x1- + 0.001 0.947 Y= –2.944 + 0.368 x1 + 0.005 x20.946 M1
Le.m.inf. Y = –7.296 + 0.666 x10.985 Y= –16.086 + 0.790 x1 +
+ (–0.0004) x^2 + 0.014 x40.985 M1
Lant.T-S Y = –7.227 + 0.661 x10.985 Y= –5.730 + 0.655 x1 + (–48.500) / x20.984 M1
Lint.m.inf. Y = –3.221 + 0.473 x1 + 0.035 x20.968 Y= –3.363 + 0.474 x1 + 0.038 x40.969 M2
Width
lsY= –1.349 + 0.106 x1 + 0.224 x20.970 Y= –1.534 + 0.151 x1 + 0.143 x40.926 M1
lb
Y= 23.104 + (–1636.371) / x1 +
+ 0.224 x20.972 Y= –1.799 + 0.139 x1 + 0.142 x40.925 M1
Perimeters
Pc
Y= 63.586 + (-0.313) x1 +
+ 0.001 x1^2 + 0.087 x20.315 Y= 53.494 + (–0.159) x1 +
+ 0.0008 x1^2 + 0.083 x40.350 M2
Pbg Y= 12.053 + 0.073 x1 + 0.125 x20.609 Y= 11.884 + 0.095 x1 + 0.089 x40.608 M1
Pbr Y= –3.777 + 0. 386 x20.749 Y= 22.094 + (–0.016) x1 +
+ (–0.353)yx
2 + (0.005)y^ x2
0.750 M2
Pam Y= –1.342 + 0.052 x1 + 0.130 x20.608 Y= –1.452 + 0.079 x1 + 0.083 x40.578 M2
Pcps
Y= –8.039 + (–0.137) x1 +
+ 0.0009 x1^2 + 0.739 x20.824 Y= –25.522 + 0.232 x1 + 0.542 x40.838 M2
Pg
Y= 23.670 + 0.090 x1 +
+ (–0.518) x2 + 0.006 x2^2 0.777 Y= –45.588 + 0.741 x1 +
+ (–0.002) x1^2 + 0.290 x40.802 M2
Pgl Y= –3.951 + 0.154 x1+ 0.064 x20.552 Y= –4.089 + 0.162 x1 + 0.053 x40.557 M2
and the distribution of calculated values through the
2 methods of direct body measurement, in figure 2
being presented the testing examples for the 2 sec-
ondary dimensions – the back length to the waist and
the back width.
Choosing the models for boys sample was made
from the same principle as girls selection, figure 3
and table 6 being concluding in this way for sec-
ondary dimensions respectively waist line height and
arm length.
The mathematical models obtained can be used for
determining secondary dimensions if the main ones
are known, thus becoming primary relations for the
pattern segments in which can be added different
specific things(the type of product to be crested, the
material used, the wearers group).
Both the mathematical models obtained through sim-
ple regression analysis and also those obtained
through curved multiple regression can represent
work instruments in the revision activity for the rules
applied for constructivist design on children’ clothing.
CONCLUSIONS
Based on the experimental results presented in the
paper and also based on the bibliographical materi-
als consulted can be presented the following conclu-
sions:
using the statistical modelling programs SPSS 18–
and Jardel Table Curves 3D were obtained the
mathematical models of 2 types, represented
graphically and afterwards centralized in tables;
was imposed testing those models, the results–
being compared with the values obtained by
anthropometrical measurements, selecting in
these conditions the mathematical model that
can be used in constructivist design for base pat-
terns for products with shoulder support and
products with waist support;
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
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THE CALCULATED MEDIUM VALUE FOR MORPHO-
LOGICAL INDICATORS Îlt AND Lm.sup
AND THE VALUES OBTAINED FROM THE MODELS
Tested
type
Medium
value
measured
The value
calculated with
the model M1
The value
calculated with
the model M2
Îlt 80.65 80.58 80.53
Lm.sup. 45.96 45.93 45.83
Fig. 2. The distribution of calculated values with the measured values for LTand lsbased on the models obtained
a b
Fig. 3. The distribution of calculated values with those measured for Ilt and Lm.sup based on the obtained models
a b
Table 6
based on regression equations can be estab-–
lished medium values for secondary parameters
but following main anthropometrical parameters;
the values obtained from the statistical work can–
be included in the existent design relations;
establishing the optimal number of subjects, the–
regression relation obtained for the studied group
can become the base for new rules and anthro-
pometrical standards, the existent ones having
the need for corrections because of the phe-
nomenon called “secular growth”;
for obtaining interdependence relations between–
the anthropometric dimensions with the same
orientation it is necessary making a experimen-
tal data base specific for the studied age group
and also based on the specifications of the
anthropometric standards.
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BIBLIOGRAPHY
[1] Bălan, S., Mitu, S. Prelucrarea statistică unidimensională a parametrilor antropometrici principali pentru femei,
grupa de vârstă 18-29 ani. Al II-lea Simpozion Internaţional Universitar, Editura Tehnică a Moldovei, Chişinău,
1997, p. 32, ISBN 9975-910-18-1
[2] Niculescu, C., Săliștean, A., Olaru, S. Anthropometric parameters of children in Romania, result of the anthropo-
metric survey carried out in 2010-2011. In: Industria Textilă, 2012, vol. 63, nr. 1, p. 176-182
[3] Ciocoiu, M. Bazele statistico – matematice ale analizei şi controlului calităţii în industria textilă. Editura
Performantica, Iaşi, 2002, ISBN 973-8075-31-9
[4] Dabija, A. Cercetări privind particularităţile constructiv tehnologice ale echipamentelor de protecţie destinate ope-
ratorilor care deservesc utilităţi publice din Republica Moldova. Teză de doctorat, 2011
[5] Clocotici, V. Introducere în statistică multivariată. Universitatea „Al. I. Cuza”, 2007
[6] Landau, S., Everit, B. S. A handbook of statistical analzses using SPSS. Chapman & Hall/CRC Press LLC, 2004,
ISBN 1-58488-369-3
[7] Griffith, A. SPSS for Dummies. Published 2007, ISBN: 978-0-470-11344-8
[8] Vouyouka, A. A. Comprehensive pattern making guide book suitable for use with any pattern making method.
Publications AB, 2001, ISBN 960-8430-34-8
[9] Winifred, Aldrich. Metric pattern cutting for children’s wear and babywear. Published 2009, ISBN-13: 978-
1405182928
[10] Avădanei, M. Contribuţii teoretice şi experimentale privind utilizarea datelor antropometrice în proiectarea
produselor vestimentare. Teză de doctorat, Universitatea Tehnică „Gheorghe Asachi” – Iași, 2001
Authors:
Drd. ing. ANA VÎRCAN
Drd. ing. SAVIN DORIN IONESI
Prof. dr. ing. STAN MITU
Drd. ing. ALA DABIJA
Drd. ing. LAVINIA CAPMARE
Universitatea Tehnică “Gheorghe Asachi” Iași
Facultatea de Textile, Pielărie și Management Industrial
Bd. D. Mangeron nr. 53, Iaşi
e-mail: avircan@tex.tuiasi.ro
Image making is a kind of artwork, it is time-con-
suming and difficult for engineering. To solve the
problem, an image making method by dots of
monochrome was researched. As a result of con-
ducting factor analysis about the product of original
images, the relation between the design condition
and the image of the design can be clarified and the
basic data of the image making for the textile design-
er were able to be obtained [1]. The application of
moiré patterns to clothes was examined. The pat-
terns were made by pilling up the same two figures of
color dots arranged at points of intersection of square
fretwork. The number of patterns became innumer-
able by changing a rotation angle between the two
figures [2]. Bye briefly introduced some of the history
and main concepts of the design discipline and
design research. He presents a framework for design
scholarship to initiate a discussion about research,
and suggested ways to contribute to the larger aca-
demic dialogue on forming a design discipline [3].
The effects of indirect training, provided by apparel
design and product development courses on spatial
visualization skills, were examined [4]. The images
were introduced into CAD systems and its adjust-
ment to the technical and aesthetic limitations of the
printing industry. Gray-scale image analysis was
applied to the characterization of textural patterns of
29 kinds of lace.
Factor analysis showed beauty to be related to the
entropy and fractal dimension, transparency and light
sensation to the angular second moment, contrast,
thickness and weight, as well as lacunarity to the
number of voids and mean void size [5].
Recently many art works based on mathematics,
were studied [6]. The generation of an image origi-
nating from the mapping has been proposed [7]. A
complete design process, beginning with a design
from the mathematical perception of fractal geometry,
was introduced [8]. A parameterized program to gen-
erate various uniform stochastic web images was
Auto-generation color image for fabric based on FFT
HONGXIA JIANG WEIDONG GAO
JIHONG LIU HONGFU WANG
RURU PAN
REZUMAT – ABSTRACT
Autogenerarea unei imagini color pe materiale textile, cu ajutorul FFT
A fost studiată o metodă de autogenerare a unei imagini color, folosind transformata Fourier rapidă (FFT). În acest scop,
s-a elaborat un program de autogenerare a unor imagini color rafinate, într-un număr foarte mare de variante. Au fost
proiectate probe ale imaginilor analizate, prin generarea de modele digitale din puncte. Procesul de autogenerare a
culorilor s-a realizat în patru etape: dimensionarea imaginii, crearea șablonului de bază, alegerea culorii modelului și
conversia imaginii la modelul de culoare dorit. Au fost analizate trei dintre cele mai simple modele de bază, precum și
combinații ale acestora. În cadrul acestei cercetări, a fost adoptat modelul de culoare HSV. Pentru proiectarea imaginii,
în cadrul acestui studiu, au fost luați în considerare trei parametri importanți, inclusiv H, S și V. Rezultatele au arătat că
imaginile reprezintă o combinație a patru proprietăți. Dimensiunea și culoarea imaginii pot fi controlate în funcție de
cerința designerului. În cadrul acestui studiu, imaginile au fost transferate pe materialele textile, folosind un program ce
conține imaginea virtuală a unui mobilier. Rezultatele au arătat că designerul textil are acces direct la imaginile create.
Aceste imagini pot fi folosite pentru proiectarea imaginii pe elemente textile, de exemplu pe mobilierul textil.
Cuvinte-cheie: elemente de design, textile digitale, creare de modele, imagini color, mobilier virtual
Auto-generation color image for fabric based on FFT
An auto-generation method of color image was researched based on the fast Fourier transform theory. We developed
a program to auto-generate abundant exquisite color images. Samples of images, using patterns of points, were
designed. The auto-generation color processing can be divided into the four steps: giving the image size, drawing basic
pattern, giving the color pattern and transforming color image. The simplest basic patterns and their combinations were
analyzed. HSV color model was adapted in the research. Three important parameters, including H, S and V, were con-
sidered in this research for image design. The results showed that the images have the properties of alliance quartet.
The size and color of image element can be controlled according to requirement of designer. In the present research
the images were transformed to textiles by virtual furniture software. The results also showed that the images can be
used for textile designer directly. The application of the images was also discussed for the elements for textile image
design such as furniture textile.
Key-words: design elements, digital textile, pattern design, color image, virtual furniture
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
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developed based on a kind of nonlinear scientific tech-
nology-weak chaos. It is in favor of perfecting digital
textile technology. Methods of transforming mapping
function to obtain abundant colorful digital images for
ink-jet printing were proposed [9]. Image processing
has been used in analyzing the textile widely [10–13].
With the development of computer science and tech-
nology, nonlinear science, including fractal geometry,
chaos and other important branches, provides us
with a new resource of pattern design [5].
In this paper, an auto-generation method of color
image was researched. Because of the color sense
with a sense of expansion and contraction, we use
the HSV model to illustrate algorithm in the research
in order to show the real Fourier transform automati-
cally generated patterns internal fine structure.
Based on the fast Fourier transform (FFT) theory, we
developed a program to auto-generate abundant
exquisite color images. Samples of images, using pat-
terns of points and their combinations, were designed.
Using the techniques of computer-aided textile
design, an artwork is created on a pure mathematical
basis as a result.
THEORY OF GENERATING IMAGES BY FFT
Basic theory of FFT
FFT was used to design virtual woven fabric [14].
Express the gray level of an image of width Xheight
Yas a two dimensional function f(x, y), where x= 0,
1, 2,…, X– 1, and y = 0, 1, 2,…, Y– 1, are the sam-
pled points in the spatial coordinates. The discrete
Fourier transform (DFT) of f(x, y) is written as
following equation (1):
X–1 Y–1 xk yl
F(k,l) = ∑∑f(x,y) e – j2p
(
+
)
(1)
x= 0 y= 0 XY
where:
k= 0, 1, 2, …, X – 1, and l = 0, 1, 2, …, Y– 1, are
the sampled points in the frequency coordinates.
In turn, the relationship of inverse discrete Fourier
transform (IDFT) allows us to recover the image from
the frequency. In practice, FFT algorithm is used to
substitute the DFT for increasing the speed of calcu-
lation. FFT returns the DFT of pattern. In the same
way, inverse fast Fourier transform (IFFT) algorithm
is used to substitute the IDFT for increasing the speed
of calculation. IFFT returns the IDFT of pattern.
DFT and IDFT are powerful computational tools for
performing frequency analysis of image processing.
The DFT transforms time- or space-based data into
frequency-based data. DFT has been widely used in
assessing and monitoring weaving density, detecting
defect of non-woven fabric, acquisition parameters of
fabric, and so on. When using the FFT to generate
the color image, one can draw points, lines or geo-
metrical shapes on a picture accurately. The pictures
are called as basic pattern. Then a new geometrical
pattern can be generated by discrete Fourier trans-
form (DFT) or inverse DFT (IDFT). The patterns are
called as color image, which are the result of design.
HSV model
The RGB coordinate system reproduces a color by
combining the three primary colors, including red,
green and blue as shown in figure 1. HSV model was
developed in the 1970s for computer graphics appli-
cations, and is used for color pickers, in color-modifi-
cation tools in image editing software. HSV stands for
hue, saturation, and value, respectively. HSV model
is the most common cylindrical-coordinate represen-
tations of points in an RGB color model, which rear-
range the geometry of RGB in an attempt to be more
intuitive and perceptually relevant than the cartesian
(cube) representation [15–16].
In HSV cylinder, the angle around the central vertical
axis corresponds to “hue”, the distance from the axis
corresponds to “saturation”, and the distance along
the axis corresponds to value. Note that hue
H[0°, 360°], saturation S[0.0, 1.0], and value
V[0.0, 1.0] [17]. Each unique RGB device has
unique HSV spaces to accompany it, and numerical
HSV values describe a different color for each basis
RGB space. The color spaces are related to human’s
concept of tint, shade and tone [18, 19]. The space in
which hue, saturation and value are represented can
be described with a cone as shown in figure 2.
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Fig. 1. RGB coordinate system
Fig. 2. HSV coordinate system
Converting to RGB
The transformation from HSV to RGB is a non-linear
operation. Figure 3 gives a graphical representation
of RGB coordinates transforming from HSV coordi-
nates. According to the figure, the transformation
from HSV to RGB color space is accomplished
through the following steps.
First, the Hvalue in HSV model was divided into six
segments and calculated the integral part iand facto-
rial part fby:
H
i= integral
(
)
(2)
60
HH
f= – integral
(
)
(3)
60 60
In the equations (2) and (3), integral means to get the
integral part from the result of algebraic division.
Therefore, iis belong to a integer set {0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5},
f [0, 1). Next the intermediate value t,n,pwere
introduced:
t= 1 – S(4)
n= 1 – S f(5)
p= 1 – S (1 – f ) (6)
Then, R1, G1, and B1can be calculated by matching
value:
(1, p, t) if i= 0;
(n, 1, t) if i= 1;
(R1, G1, B1) = (t, 1, p) if i= 2; (7)
(t, n, 1) if i= 3;
(p, t, 1) if i= 4;
(1, t, n) if i= 5.
Finally, R, G, and Bcan be calculated by multiplying
value by a given value:
(R, G, B) = (VR1, VG1, VB1) (8)
Auto-generation steps
To describe the auto-generation color image process
for textile products, figure 4 gives main procedure
flow chart of auto-generation system. The auto-gen-
eration process can be divided into the four steps:
defining the image size, drawing basic pattern, giving
color pattern and calculating color image. The
designer will design from the first step to the third
step. The fourth step is calculated by FFT. After these
steps, the application software can be used for the
color image.
Giving the size of image
The image size for design, including width ww and
height hh, was defined at first. In our examples of
design, both ww and hh of the pattern were set sim-
ply to 256 pixels. All of the elements in the image con-
struct a matrix. Then the data in all of the elements
were set to zero and the matrix became a kind of
zero matrixes. If the matrix element is 0, the pixel is
black, if the matrix element is 1, the pixel is white.
Therefore, all of pixels in the pattern were initialized
as black dots and the image became a black image.
Drawing basic pattern
In order to construct a fully and balanced demon-
strate the patterns; the center of the picture must be
the drawing center according to the theory of FFT.
Coordinates of center (cw,ch) can be determined
and the coordinates were equal to (ww/2, hh/2). The
designers paint a few simple points, lines signal in
the first quadrant.
Giving the color pattern
First, the number of color is defined according to
requirement of designer. Next, the data of HSV color
pattern are designed to human’s concept of tint,
shade and tone. Then the HSV color pattern is con-
verted to RGB color pattern. For an example, figure 5
shows a result of color pattern. There are eight kinds
of color. A black rectangle was drawn around each
color in the color pattern for distinguishing the color
easily. The color pattern is designed by designer. The
designer can select the number of color and each
color in color pattern. The corresponding data for
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
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Fig. 4. Flow chart of auto-generation system
Fig. 3. Relationship of RGB and HSV coordinates
calculation can be acquired. The data of HSV color
pattern in figure 5 are listed in table 1. The data of
RGB color pattern, calculated by equations (7) and
(8), from table 1, are listed in table 2.
Transforming color image by FFT
The software, designed for generating FFT images,
recognizes the patterns as an image data, then con-
verts the image data to a matrix and each matrix ele-
ment represents an image pixel. By the algorithm of
FFT, the point of the pattern is transformed into addi-
tive sinusoidal signal. The signal is transformed
according to the position and gray of the point. The
period cycle is decided by the position and the ampli-
tude is decided by the gray of the point. After that the
result was made from logarithmic transformation, and
re-defined as a matrix. At this step, the type of data is
double type. That means infinite number of grades for
the data. Then each HSV is corresponding to a range
of the result for reducing the number of grade of
the result as shown in figure 6. The result of FFT has
256 gray grades. In fact, the designer wants to get
lesser grades, e.g. eight kinds of grades. Since the
gray grades can not satisfy the demand of designer,
a cluster algorithm must be applied to generate an
optimal threshold value of HSV color pattern. As
results, eight kinds of colors are produced in the color
pattern. These colors are corresponding to color pat-
tern in figure 5. At last a restored pattern was pro-
duced as shown in figure 7.
EXPERIMENTAL SETUP
The Matlab 2009 was used as the software tool to
develop the system of auto-generation color image
for textile products, and the CPU of the computer
used in the experiment is P8600 3.00GHz and 2G
DDRIII memory.
EXPERIMENTAL RESULTS OF BASIC IMAGE
Transform from circle
Figure 8 shows a circle and transformed result. The
pattern can be produced as following. First, a zero
matrix was defined. Both of the column (ww) and row
(hh) of the pattern are set to 256 pixels. Because the
coordinates of center (cw,ch) is equal to (ww/2,
hh/2), cw can be calculated and is equal to 128, and
ch can also be calculated and is equal to 128.
Secondly, a circle was drawn in the center of the pic-
ture as shown in figure 8 a. Center of the circle over-
lapped the coordinates of center of the matrix. The
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Table 1
Table 2
Fig. 5. Color pattern
Fig. 6. Effective grayed amplitude width
Fig. 7. Restored pattern
PHSV DATA OF COLOR PATTERN
IN FIGURE 5
No. HSV
1 32 0.125 0.525
2 64 0.250 0.550
3 96 0.375 0.575
4 128 0.500 0.600
5 160 0.625 0.625
6 192 0.750 0.650
7 224 0.875 0.675
8 255 1.000 0.700
RGB DATA OF COLOR PATTERN
IN FIGURE 5
No. RGB
1 0.525 0.507 0.460
2 0.481 0.550 0.413
3 0.359 0.575 0.413
4 0.300 0.600 0.600
5 0.234 0.332 0.625
6 0.406 0.163 0.650
7 0.675 0.084 0.527
8 0.700 0.000 0.000
radius rwas set to be 10. That means if the distance
between the center of matrix and the element was
less than or equal to the radius 10, then the element
of the matrix was set to be 1. Otherwise, if the dis-
tance between the center of matrix and the element
was more than the radius 10, then the element was
set to be 0. Third, a gray pattern was generated by
FFT as shown in figure 8 b.
Transform from point
A basic patterns transformed from four points, based
on FFT as shown in figure 9, was designed. The dis-
tance dbetween the point and the center of matrix
was 10. In the figure 9, the sizes of the points were
enlarged for viewing easily. According to the design
size of pattern, ww and hh were set as 256 256 pix-
els, respectively. The color pattern as shown in figure
5 was selected. Figure 9 b was FFT results of figure
9 a.
DISCUSSIONS
Auto-generation for complex color image
Combination of basic images
The complex pattern can be produced by combina-
tion of basic images. A combination pattern of circle
and points as shown in figure 10 acan be generated
the mirror image as shown in figure 10 b. The radius
of the circle rwas 10. And there were four points in
the basic pattern. The distances dbetween the point
and the center of matrix were 10, 20 and 40. The
color pattern as shown in figure 5 was selected. After
FFT, a color image was generated as shown in figure
10 b.
Geometrical transform of images
The complex pattern can also be produced by geo-
metrical transform of basic images. A geometrical
transform of circle and points as shown in figure 11 a
can be generated a color image as shown in figure 11 b.
The parameters of figure 11 a and figure 10 a were
the same. The radius of the circle was 10. The dis-
tances dbetween the point and the center of matrix
were 10, 20 and 40. The pattern rotates 45 degrees
anti-clockwise based on the basic pattern. After FFT,
a color image was generated as shown in figure 11 b.
From the figure 11, we can find that the result also
rotates at a corresponding angle.
Features of auto-generation color images
Auto-generation color images for textile products
based on FFT are different from the traditional design
works that are made from computer graphics soft-
ware such as Photoshop, CorelDraw, CAD and other
design software. The auto-generation color images
are new kinds of graphics which can not be replaced
by other software. The auto-generation color images
are based on rigorous science in a number of internal
information according to certain rules and methods,
transforming data involved or the mathematical
model into visible graphics. The method demonstrat-
ed fully the complex structure of the digital science in
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Fig. 8. Circle and transformed result:
a– circle; b– transformed result
a b
Fig. 9. Geometrical patterns transformed from four points:
a– circle; b– basic pattern with d = 2 and mirror
image of a
a b
Fig. 10. Combination of basic patterns:
a– combination of circle and points; b– mirror image of a
a b
Fig. 11. Geometrical transform of basic images:
a – geometrical transform of circle and points;
b– mirror image of a
a b
its own way. The method also digs out the deep
beauty which the human can not see before and from
the “invisible” world. The generated images of this
research have the following characteristics.
Patterns associated with alliance quartet features
Alliance quartet features are based on units of pat-
terns starting continuously around left and right (hor-
izontal), up and down (vertical) and all other direc-
tions.
Design of the product for textile with alliance quartet
features can be extended freely from the four sides of
the pattern, and the symbols are continuous. The bal-
ance, harmony and rhythm of the formal beauty of
the patterns can be reflected by using the methods of
alliance quartet. Patterns associated with the quartet
characteristic have a strong regularity. The four mir-
ror images can construct in advanced larger images
as shown in figure 12 a. The images in figures 12 c
and dwere minified 1/4 and 1/8, respectively for easy
comparison. The main feature of the images was
using unit image for composition through continuous
order in effect. The image gave a regular and consis-
tent feel. The images had the properties of balance
and unity. The image can also be divided into four
regions as shown in figures 12 b, cand d.
The change effects of the four consecutive images
are extremely rich. They are common image art
works for people on the clothing and textile.
The size of pattern element can be controlled
The size of pattern element is inversely proportional
to the mid-point line of the original lattice. According
to the needs of design, it is quite easy to adjust the
pattern primitives. Through the scientific visualization
methods, FFT automatically generated images. The
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
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Fig. 12. Larger images constructed by basic images
Fig. 13. Geometrical transform of basic images:
a, c, e, g – geometrical transform of points; b, d, f, h – mirror image of a, c, e, g;
a, b – distance 1; c, d – distance 2; e, f – distance 3; f, h – distance 4
a b c d
a b c d
e f g h
images display the information of the nature which
cannot be described with the traditional language in
a more intuitive way. Compared with traditional pat-
terns, FFT automatically generates pattern structure
which is extremely complex, because it has unlimited
fine graphic details. With sets of image layers,
numerous and varied, both in small-scale and multi-
perspective, they are more subtle than the structure
of traditional human hand-drawn by the hard, and
they look very attractive visually. Point, line, surface
of right and wrong change, thickness contrast, the
relationship among the density of the composition
factors have great impact on the pattern-style. As
long as one or more parameters were adjusted in the
pattern, the different styles of the image will be gen-
erated.
Figures 13 b, d, f and hare color images of points in
figure 13 a, c, e, g. The color images were trans-
formed from source patterns by FFT. The variable is
the number and position of points around the center
of pattern. These points built a cross-shaped. There
are 2 points in four directions including left, right,
above or below the center of pattern as shown in fig-
ure 13 a, respectively. There are five points in figure
13 c, e, g in turn and the distance between points and
the center is changed 1, 2, 4 and 8. These points also
constructed a cross-shaped. Although there were sig-
nificantly different structures and styles in four pat-
terns, we can find the value of number of points
increased in source patterns, and the size of grain of
mirror images decreased accordingly.
Pattern with color control
Generated patterns can be controlled freely using the
HSV model. The patterns can be divided into gray
and color image. The gray image can be generated
by setting the Sbe zero and setting different value for
Vin the in the HSV model. For an example, figure 14
shows a result of gray pattern. There are eight kinds
of gray. A black rectangle was drawn around each
gray in the pattern for easy distinguishing of the gray.
After that the result was made logarithmic transfor-
mation, and re-defined as a matrix. Then an effective
HSV was applied for reducing the grade of the result
as shown in figure 15. The color image can be gen-
erated by selecting different Hand same value for S
and Vand in the in the HSV model. For an example,
figure 16 shows a result of color image. There are
eight Hvalues in the image including 10, 19, 29, 38,
48, 57, 67 and 77, respectively. The Sis set to 0.5
and the Vis set to 0.8.
In figure 17, Sis set to be 0.125, 0.250, 0.375, 0.500,
0.625, 0.750, 0.875 and 1, respectively. The Vis 0.8.
In figures 17 a to d, the His changed, and they are
0.2, 0.4, 0.6 and 0.8, respectively.
Application of the pattern
The pattern in the specific culture conveys a special
meaning. Meanwhile, there were solo properties
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
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Fig. 14. Gray pattern
Fig. 15. Color image from gray pattern
Fig. 16. Color image (His parameter)
Fig. 17. Color pattern for different H(Sis parameter)
a b c d
when the auto-generation color images by FFT theo-
ry were applied in textiles. There were many kinds of
ways to experience the color images in textile, such
as printing by digital ink-jet printers, weaving by elec-
tronic jacquard machines, and so on. In the present
work, we transfer the patterns of design to fabrics
by virtual furniture software. After the patterns are
designed, they are transferred to textiles products,
thanks to the development virtual furniture software
by Jiangnan University. Figures 18 a to d, show the
samples of virtual furniture textiles with the patterns
shown in figure 13 b, d, f and h, respectively. Figures
19 a to d, show the samples of virtual furniture tex-
tiles with the patterns shown in figures 17 a to d,
respectively. From the figures, we can feel the pre-
liminary effect of design. Although the images were
new kinds of art forms, in terms of the visual level,
there were no clear boundaries between the auto-
generation color images by FFT and traditional geo-
metric images. They can also be used in all kinds of
textile as art work. The auto-generation color images
by FFT reflect only different modern sense of beauty
from traditional geometric images.
CONCLUSIONS
A program was developed to auto-generate abun-
dant exquisite color images using the FFT theory in
the research. Samples of images, using simplest pat-
terns and their combinations, were designed. The
auto-generation color process can be divided into the
four steps: giving the image size, drawing basic pat-
tern, giving the color pattern and transforming color
image. HSV color model was adapted in the research.
Three important parameters, including H, S and V,
were considered in this research for image design.
The results showed that the images have the proper-
ties of alliance quartet. The size and color of image
element can be controlled according to requirement
of designer. In the present research the images were
transformed to textiles by virtual furniture software.
The results also showed that the images can be used
by textile designer directly. The application of the
images for textile image design was also discussed
for the elements for textile image design such as
furniture textile. The results also showed that the
images can also be used in all kinds of textile as art
work. The auto-generation color images by FFT just
reflect different modern sense of beauty from tradi-
tional geometric images.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
The authors were grateful for the financial support by the
Fundamental Research Funds for the Central Universities
of Jiangnan University (JUSRP211A51), the open project
progran of key laboratory of ECO-Textiles (Jiangnan
University), ministry of education, China (NO. KLET 1113,
NO. KLET 1114).
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Authors:
Chief of works dr. eng. HONGXIA JIANG
Conf. dr. eng. JIHONG LIU
Conf. dr. eng. RURU PAN
Conf. dr. eng. WEIDONG GAO
Conf. dr. eng. HONGFU WANG
Jiangnan University
1800 LiHu Road, Wuxi, 214122 China
e-mail: jianghongxiatex@hotmail.com; liujihongtex@hotmail.co
Cellulosic fibres are widely used for apparel indus-
try and the most demanded class of dyes
required for colouring them is those of reactive dyes.
As a consequence numerous studies are concerned
with the improvement of the dyeing performances
achievable with this class of dyes. Reactive dyes are
largely used because of their bright shades and high
fastness to wet treatments. There are, however, many
drawbacks which need addressed for improving fur-
ther the dyeing process. Among them there are prob-
lems raised by the large amount of electrolytes
required for dyeing, and sometime by the low yield of
the reaction of dye with the fibre, which leads to the
loss of unfixed dye from the fabric in effluents and
produces a waste of resources [1–7].
Micro-organisms are often found on natural polymer
fibres like cellulose because due to their natural
retention of water, oxygen and other nutrient sources
(salts, amino acids, carboxylic acids from sweat, skin
fat and dead cells) that provide the medium for cells
growing. The consequences of contamination of tex-
tile materials with microorganisms are: the bad odour
(from essential metabolic processes of bacteria), the
colour fading, the mould spots and the loss of func-
tional proprieties. The degradation action of fungi and
bacteria for cellulosic fabrics is a major inconvenient
for using these fibres in products like: camping articles,
canvas, filters, textiles for fishing industry, furniture
fabrics, textiles for decoration etc.
Chitosan has been found as a promising natural
alternative to overcome the problems of micro-organ-
ism growing. It is not yet well documented how chi-
tosan attacks the bacteria cell, but there are pre-
sumptions that positive charged primary amino
groups interact with negative charged residues found
on the surface of the bacteria cell. This interaction
changes the surface of the organism cell by blocking
air permeability and leads in cell death. The antimi-
crobial effects together with the non-toxicity, bio -
degradation, and biocompatibility grant chitosan to
be used in different fields like agriculture, medicine,
pharmacy, and textile industry.
The use of chitosan has been studied for improving
both the dyeing capacity and the antimicrobial activi-
ty against microorganism and fungi found on textile
materials. Some heavy metal salts are also known for
having antimicrobial properties against a large spec-
trum of gram positive and gram negative bacteria, as
well as against some fungi (mould and yeast) [8–12].
The aim of this paper is to look after a treatment com-
bining chitosan and heavy metal salts for improving
the dyeing capacity, increasing the crease recovery
and providing antimicrobial properties to cellulosic
based textile materials.
Improving cotton textile materials properties by treating with
chitosan and metallic salts
ABRAMIUC DANKO SIMONA DUNCA
CRIȘAN POPESCU AUGUSTIN MUREȘAN
REZUMAT – ABSTRACT
Îmbunătățirea proprietăților materialelor textile din bumbac, prin tratarea cu chitosan și
săruri metalice
Lucrarea analizează posibilitatea îmbunătăţirii caracteristicilor de rezistență a vopsirii materialelor textile din bumbac,
imprimate cu coloranţi reactivi. În urma folosirii mai multor variante de tratare, s-a constatat că utilizarea chitosanului şi
a sulfatului de cupru posedă un potenţial crescut de funcționalizare a materialelor și mărește absorbția colorantului
reactiv în fibră, astfel că apele uzate rezultate sunt mai puțin colorate. Rezultatele finale au arătat că, datorită prezenţei
ionilor de cupru şi chitosanului, odată cu îmbunătăţirea capacităţii de vopsire s-au obţinut şi efecte antibacteriene.
Cuvinte-cheie: bumbac, coloranţi reactivi, chitosan, sulfat de cupru, parametri cromatici, efect antimicrobian
Improving cotton textile materials properties by treating with chitosan and metallic salts
The paper investigates the possibility to enhance the dyeing characteristics of cotton fabrics dyed with reactive dyes.
Several variants have been tried and the results indicate that the treatment with both chitosan and copper sulphate pre-
sent the most potential for functionalizing the fabrics, enhancing the dye absorption into the fabric, thus resulting less
coloured waste water. The final results suggests that together with the enhancement of the dyeing capacity it was also
obtained antibacterial effect due to the presence of copper ions and chitosan.
Key-words: cotton, reactive dyes, chitosan, copper sulphate, chromatic parameters, antimicrobial effect
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EXPERIMENTAL PART
Treatment variants
Clean and bleached samples of cotton fabrics were
treated with solutions of CuSO4and chitosan,
respectively, then dyed using reactive dye C.I.
Reactive Violet 5R (1), in different variants.
Variant 1. Samples were dyed with C.I. Reactive
Violet 5R dye in the following conditions: 2.5% dye,
5 g/L Na2CO3, 50 g/L Na2SO4, 1 mL/L NaOH of
38°Be, LR = 30:1 for 60 minutes at 70°C. After dye-
ing, samples were washed in cold water and dried at
60°C. One set of dyed fabrics were impregnat-
ed with CuSO4solution of 10, 20, 30, 40 g/L,
respectively, padded with a squeeze out
degree of 100%, rolled and stored covered in
a protective foil for 24 hours at room temper-
ature. After storage the samples were dried
for 20 minutes at 60°C.
Variant 2. Another sample set dyed according
to variant 1was impregnated with chitosan
solution of 6, 8 and, respectively, 10 g/L
padded with squeeze out degree of 100%,
dried, and thermally treated at 150°C for 4
minutes.
Variant 3. Samples were impregnated with
CuSO4solution of 10, 20, 30 and, respective-
ly, 40 g/L padded with squeeze out degree of
100%, dried for 20 minutes at 60°C, thor-
oughly washed in distilled water and then
dyed under the following conditions: impreg-
nation in solution containing 8 g/L dye, 50 g/L
urea and 20 g/L Na2CO3, padded with
squeeze out degree of 100%, impregnation in
10 g/L chitosan solution, dried and thermal
treatment at 150°C for 4 minutes. All samples
treated according to any of the 3 variants
were washed for 20 minutes at 90°C in 0.5 g/L
Cotoblanc NSR solution, rinsed in warm, then
in cold water.
Measurements
For treated and untreated samples the follow-
ing properties were measured: chromatic
parameters, dyeing intensity K/S, colour
difference ∆E CIELAB, dyeing fastness to
washing and rubbing, material handle, crease
recovery angle and the antimicrobial effect.
Colour intensity K/S and colour difference ∆E
were calculated by using Micromatch 2000®
software after measuring chromatic parame-
ters with the Spectroflash 300 Datacolor
device [13]. Dyeing fastness to washing, rub-
bing and perspiration were determined
according to standards [14, 15].
The treatment modifies the handle, therefore we
measured the stiffness of the treated and untreated
samples. The method consists in measuring the free
bending length (cm) of the fabric under its own
weight, in an 45° angle [16].
A SEM Quanta 200 3D Dual Beam electron micro-
scope equipped with an EDAX analysis system
Edax-Ametek Holland was used to analyse the sur-
face of the treated materials. Characterization was
performed in Low Vacuum mode, electron accelera-
tion 10 kV, Secondary electrons imaging (SE) mode.
Evaluation of antibacterial activity for the treated
samples was tested in vitro, using Kirby-Bauer
method [17, 18].
RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS
The results on the chromatic parameters are shown
in the figures 1 – 3. The results show that the colour
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
˘
(1)
Fig. 1. Influence of copper sulphate concentration on:
a– colour strength, K/S; b – colour difference, ΔE
a b
Fig. 2. Influence of chitosan concentration on:
a– colour strength, K/S; b – colour difference, ΔE
a b
Fig. 3. Influence of copper sulphate and chitosan (10 g/L)
concentrations on:
a– colour strength, K/S; b – colour difference, ΔE
a b
intensity increases for the samples treated with cop-
per sulphate and chitosan. Significant changes in
colour intensity between the treated and untreated
samples can be seen for the treatment variant 3.
The results measured for dyeing fastness to washing
and rubbing are shown in the tables 1 – 3 below. One
may notice from these results that the fastness to
washing and the fastness to dry rubbing keep the
same value at treated and at the reference (only dyed
fabric) samples. Fastness to wet rubbing decreases
when cotton is treated with CuSO4and chitosan.
Best results to perspiration fastness were obtained
for treatment variant 3followed by variant 1and then
variant 2. For all fastness the lowest values has been
obtained for the treatment variant 3. A possible expla-
nation of this could be the formation of a dye –
CuSO4– chitosan complex on the fibre surface.
Fabric handle
The results of measuring the fabric handle are pre-
sented in figure 4. Figure 4 cindicates that the highest
stiffness is reached for the treatment variant 3 – max-
imum chitosan and copper sulphate concentration.
SEM characterization of the prepared samples as
presented is shown in figure 5. On samples surface a
number of deposits is observed smaller and less for
reference sample which is only dyed where to find
dye. These deposits become enlarged for samples it
prepared for variants 1 – 3 where beside dye there
are copper sulphate and chitosan.
The EDAX analysis of cotton fabrics was performed.
Due to the fact that high energy electron beam dam-
age fast the fibres, this analysis has only qualitative
value in our case. The supplementary results confirm
the presence of the treated samples of elements such
as copper, and increased nitrogen content which
derives from dye and chitosan (table 4).
Evaluating the antibacterial activity for the treated
samples the experiments proved that the samples
treated with CuSO4and chitosan have an antimicro-
bial effect on a large spectrum of microorganisms
(gram positive and gram negative), also confirmed by
literature. The antibacterial results are shown in fig-
ure 6 and table 5.
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THE VALUES RECORDED FOR FASTNESS TO WASHING, RUBBING AND PERSPIRATION (Variant 1)
CuSO4
concentration,
g/L
Fastness to
washing
Fastness to rubbing Perspiration
Wet Dry Acid Alkaline
10 5/5/5 5 4-5
4/5/4-5 4-5/5/4-5
20 5/5/5 5 4-5
30 5/5/5 5 4-5
40 5/5/5 5 4-5
0 5/5/5 55
THE VALUES RECORDED FOR FASTNESS TO WASHING, RUBBING AND PERSPIRATION (Variant 3)
CuSO4
concentration,
g/L
Chitosan
concentration,
g/L
Fastness to
washing
Fastness to rubbing Perspiration
Wet Dry Acid Alkaline
10
10
5/5/5 54
4-5/5/5 4/5/5
20 5/5/5 54
30 5/5/5 54
40 5/5/5 54
THE VALUES RECORDED FOR FASTNESS TO WASHING, RUBBING AND PERSPIRATION (Variant 2)
CuSO4
concentration,
g/L
Fastness to
washing
Fastness to rubbing Perspiration
Wet Dry Acid Alkaline
6 5/5/5 5 4-5
3-4/5/4-5 3-4/5/48 5/5/5 5 4-5
10 5/5/5 5 4-5
Table 1
Table 2
Table 3
The results given in table 5 show that the treatments
lead to a good inhibition of bacteria growth measured
for Escherichia coli followed by Staphylococcus
aureus and Pseudomonas aeruginosa.
Antimicrobial activity improves with the increasing
concentration of copper sulphate.
For the reference sample no inhibition of bacteria
growth was noticed.
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Table 4
MEDAX COMPONENT ANALYSIS
References Variant 1Variant 2Variant 3
Element Wt, %Element Wt, %Element Wt, %Element Wt, %
CK 45.42 CK 35,75 CK 28.23 CK 29.09
NK 02.16 NK 02.17 NK 09.27 NK 09.03
OK 51.61 OK 60.15 OK 61.70 OK 60.26
SK 00.81 SK 01.14 SK 00.80 SK 00.69
-- CuK 00.79 --CuK 00.93
Fig. 4. Influence of copper sulphate and chitosan on fabric stiffness:
a– variant 1; b– variant 2; c– variant 3
a b c
Fig. 5. SEM images of cotton fabrics samples:
a– reference; b– variant 1; c– variant 2; d– variant 3; scale bar – 10 m
c d
a b
CONCLUSIONS
The use of chitosan and copper sulphate for treating
cotton materials dyed with reactive dye adds a signif-
icant improvement for the functionality of the cotton
fabrics.
The antibacterial effects have been enhanced as the
experiments show. The dye intensity improves when
the fabric is treated with both CuSO4and chitosan
therefore increasing the efficiency of the dyeing pro-
cess.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
This paper was realised with the financial support of the
project POSDRU CUANTUMDOC “Doctoral studies for
European performances in research and innovation”
ID79407, project financed by the European Social Fund
and the Romania Government.
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
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ANTIMICROBIAL ACTIVITY OF CHITOSAN AND CuSO4TREATMENT
CuSO4,
g/L
Chitosan,
g/L
Microorganism test
Staphylococcus
aureus Escherichia coli Pseudomonas
aeruginosa
10 10 +++
20 10 +++
30 10 ++ ++ +
40 10 ++ ++ +
Reference ----
Table 5
Note: +is weak inhibition of bacteria growth; ++ is good inhibition of bacteria growth;
-is no inhibition of bacteria growth
Fig. 6. Highlighting diameters of inhibition zones for antibacterial testing
of samples treated with CuSO4and chitosan:
a– 30 g/L CuSO4; b– 40 g/L CuSO4
a b
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Authors:
Crd. ing. ABRAMIUC DANKO
Prof. dr. ing. AUGUSTIN MUREȘAN
Universitatea Tehnică Gheorghe Asachi
Facultatea de Textile-Pielărie şi Management Industrial
Bd. D. Mangeron nr. 53, 700050 Iaşi
e-mail: dabramiuc@tex.tuiasi.ro
Prof. dr. ing. CRIȘAN POPESCU
DWI at RWTH Aachen University, Germany
e-mail: popescu@dwi.rwth-aachen.de
Conf. dr. SIMONA DUNCA
Universitatea “Alexandru Ioan Cuza”
Bd. Carol nr. I20 A, 700506 Iași
e-mail: sdunca@uaic.ro
Corresponding author:
AUGUSTIN MUREŞAN
e-mail: amuresan@tex.tuiasi.ro
One of the most important key factors of increas-
ing compatibility in textiles is being able to reduce
the costs towards the global averages. The compati-
bility of apparel manufacturers depends on product
standardization, technology, how advanced they are
and whether they have the mental work-power to deal
with the technology. The technology development is
not limited only with automation of the machinery on
the production line but also includes processes
before and after the production [1, 2].
In companies, technology improvements are towards
increasing productivity and reducing costs [3].
Production is vitally important for the companies.
Improvement of productivity is not only increasing
profit but also the improvement in the way of produc-
tion. Material and work-power are the basic subjects
of the efforts on improving productivity. The benefits
depending on the structures of the products models,
will affect directly the productivity of the company [4].
In companies, cost determination is the primary issue,
on which most attention and care is paid. Since all
savings without sacrificing from the quality affect the
costs in a positive manner, savings from the materi-
als and production time should be the primary target.
One of the main factors that affect the cost of a prod-
uct is the characteristics of the model [5]. It should be
taken into consideration that model’s being in fewer
numbers of pieces will affect the amount of fabric to
be used; its cutting and sewing times.
It is obvious that customer demands directed the
manufacturer to work with different models. Various
models can be formed for garment types. Forming a
model on a garment may be defined as cutting the
garment into desired pieces, changing the form of the
garment by dividing it into pieces. When forming a
model, it is important to consider all phases of the
production line and doing it economically with exist-
ing resources [6, 7].
In the study, the effects of different model character-
istics of garments on cutting and sewing times have
been investigated. Following the experiment, a method
for determining cutting and sewing times for sample
product groups has been created.
In apparel companies, after the model is formed, this
method will be useful in estimating cutting and sewing
times, calculating the productivity, production plan-
ning and estimating delivery date.
The relationship between model types and related parameters
OKSAN ORAL M. CETIN ERDOGAN
ESRA DIRGAR
REZUMAT – ABSTRACT
Relația dintre tipurile de modele și parametrii conecși
În articol este analizată influența diferitelor caracteristici ale modelelor articolelor de îmbrăcăminte asupra tăierii și coa-
serii. În urma studiilor efectuate, a fost elaborată o metodă de determinare a timpilor de tăiere și de coasere pentru cate-
goriile de produse folosite ca eșantioane, respectiv fustă și sacou bărbătesc. Au fost studiate opt modele diferite de fuste
și 7 modele diferite de sacouri bărbătești. Folosind relația Pearson, s-a calculat numărul total de piese, perimetrul
pieselor, timpul de tăiere și timpul de coasere. Pentru a stabili care sunt efectele altor factori asupra acestor procese,
s-a efectuat o analiză de regresie. În urma analizării tuturor factorilor și gradelor de afectare, s-a constatat că anumite
caracteristici ale unui model pot influența productivitatea și timpul în producția de confecții. Lucrarea evidențiază
importanța caracteristicilor diferitelor modele de articole de îmbrăcăminte pentru scurtarea timpilor de tăiere și de coa-
sere.
Cuvinte-cheie: model, caracteristici, timp de tăiere, timp de coasere, perimetrul pieselor
The relationship between model types and related parameters
In the study, the effects of different model characteristics of garments on cutting and sewing times have been investi-
gated. Following the experiment, a method for determining cutting and sewing times for sample product groups has been
created. Product groups subject to the study are skirt and men’s coat. In the study, 8 different models to the chosen skirt
group and 7 different models to the men’s coat group were applied. Total number of pieces, perimeter of pieces, cutting
time, and sewing time were investigated. Pearson correlation was used in the study. Regression analysis was conduct-
ed to investigate the effects of other happenings on the observed process. Following the investigations of all factors and
their degrees of effect, it was observed that a characteristic of a model is one of the important factors that affect the pro-
ductivity and time in apparel company. The paper provides that different model characteristics of garments is very impor-
tant for cutting and sewing times.
Key-words: model, characteristics, cutting time, sewing time, perimeter of pieces
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
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METHODOLOGY USED
The material of the study consisted of clothing prod-
uct groups made of woven fabric and garment mod-
els, CAD (computer aided design) machine used in
model pattern department and CAM (computer aided
manufacturing) cutting machine used in cutting
department.
Product groups subject to the study are skirts and
men’s coats. In forming the models to be applied to
each product group, some criteria were taken into
consideration. In order to be able to compare differ-
ent modeling within each group, various dividing
were made and the criteria for models were deter-
mined. These are classic, horizontally cut, vertically
cut and both vertically and horizontally cut types of
models. In cutting of models some drawing bases
were benefited from. Since investigation of the rela-
tionship of the number of pieces with cutting and
sewing time was one of the aims of the study, prepar-
ing models with higher number of pieces was a prior-
ity [8].
In this study, evaluation research method includes an
analytic evaluation suitable for the aim of the study,
conduction of the study, experiments and data analy-
ses.
Analysis of production process
and production flow
The production line comprising:
Step 1 – preparations of the patterns of the chosen
models using Muller pattern system accord-
ing to CAD system;
Step 2 – grading of patterns according to determined
sizes;
Step 3 – preparation of marker plans for models;
Step 4 – cutting of marker plans using CAM;
Step 5 – determination of sewing times for the mod-
els using the method MTM – pre-accepted
properties of the study.
Fabric used
The woven fabric used in the study is single colored,
has no nap and available for placing the patterns in
both directions. The 148 cm wide fabric (the most
common one in the market) was used and all pattern
placements were practiced on 148 cm width.
Sizes
Since there is no size table adapted to Turkish men
and women sizes and since the nationality of the size
table was not effective on the aims of the study, nor-
mal German size table for men and women were
used in preparing the patterns.
Assortment of sizes
Before the patterns were prepared, sizes to be used
in the experiment and their numbers together with
their assortment numbers have to be determined. In
this study, sizes and the assortments used for the
women group are shown below:
36 38 40 42
1111
The following sizes and assortments are for the men
group:
46 48 50 52
11 11
Determination of number of samplings
In the study, 8 different models to the chosen skirt
group and 7 different models to the men’s coat group
were applied. Skirt group is given in figure 1 and
men’s coat group is given in figure 2.
THE EXPERIMENTAL PATTERN OF THE STUDY
In the study the following parameters were investi-
gated:
Total number of pieces – total numbers of pieces on
the cutting plan belonging to sizes were taken into
account;
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
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Fig. 1. Skirt groups:
a – clasic; b– flared; c– horizontally cut, model 1; d– horizontally cut, model 2; e – vertically cut, model 1;
f – vertically cut, model 2; g– both vertically and horizontally cut, model 1;
h – both vertically and horizontally cut, model 2
e f g h
a b c d
Perimeter of the pieces – total length of the perime-
ters of the sizes on the cutting plan was taken in
meters;
Cutting time – the duration of the CAM operated cut-
ting process of a single layer of the cutting plan was
taken in minutes;
Sewing time – taking the production diagrams of the
models into consideration, operation unit times were
taken in minutes according to MTM (method’s time
measurement).
The results of the trials were evaluated using SPSS
(statistical packet software). Pearson correlation was
used in the study. If pthe significance value is small-
er than 0.05 (probability) the linear relation (positive
correlation) (p< 0.05) between variables is signifi-
cant. And if p > 0.05, there is no positive correlation,
therefore, insignificant.
Regression analysis was conducted to investigate
the effects of other happenings on the observed pro-
cess [8].
FINDINGS
Finding for number of pieces and the perimeter
of the pieces
Correlation analyses of the results of trials conducted
as 7 trials for men’s coat models and 8 for skirt mod-
els were investigated using the software SPSS.
Values obtained as a result of correlation are given in
table 1.
When the results in table 1 is examined:
In the relation of the perimeter of the pieces and–
number of pieces in the skirt group, p = 0, there-
fore, the linear relationship between these vari-
ables is statistically significant;
In the relation of the perimeter of the pieces and–
number of pieces in the men’s coat group,
p= 0.004, therefore, the linear relationship
between these variables is statistically significant.
Findings regarding number of pieces, cutting
time and sewing time
Skirt models
Correlation analyses of the results of trials conducted
as 8 trials for skirt models were investigated using the
software SPSS. Values obtained as a result of corre-
lation are given in table 2.
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
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Fig. 2. Men’s coat groups:
a – classic; b – horizontally cut, model 1;c – horizontally cut, model 2; d–vertically cut, model 1;
e–vertically cut, model 2; f–both vertically and horizontally cut, model 1;
g–both vertically and horizontally cut, model 2
a b c
d e f
g
Table 1
CORRELATION FOR THE TOTAL NUMBER
OF PIECES AND THE PERIMETER OF PIECES
ON THE MARKER BOTH FOR THE SKIRT GROUP
AND MEN’S COAT GROUP
Factors rpn
Skirt – total number of pieces –
perimeter of pieces 0.972 08
Men’s coat – total number of
pieces – perimeter of pieces 0.914 0.004 7
When the results in table 2 are examined:
since the relationship between number of pieces–
and cutting time is p= 0.159, the linear relation-
ship between these variables is statistically
insignificant;
since the relationship between the number of–
pieces and sewing time is p= 0, the linear rela-
tionship between these variables is statistically
significant.
Figure 3 shows the changing in the sewing time
depending on the number of pieces.
Men’s coat models
Correlation analyses of the results of trials conducted
as 7 trials for men’s coat models were investigated
using the software SPSS. Values obtained as a result
of correlation are given in table 3.
When the results in table 3 are examined:
since the relationship between number of pieces–
and cutting time is p= 0, the linear relationship
between these variables is statistically signifi-
cant;
since the relationship between the number of–
pieces and sewing time is p= 0.002, the linear
relationship between these variables is statisti-
cally significant.
Figure 4 shows the changing in the cutting time
depending on the number of pieces, and figure 5
shows the changing in the sewing time depending on
the number of pieces.
Findings regarding perimeter of pieces, cutting
time and sewing time
Skirt models
Correlation analyses of the results of trials conducted
as 8 trials for skirt models were investigated using the
software SPSS. Values obtained as a result of corre-
lation are given in table 4.
When the results in table 4 are examined:
since the relationship between perimeter of pieces–
and cutting time is p= 0.137, the linear relationship
between these variables is statistically insignifi-
cant;
since the relationship between the perimeter of–
pieces and sewing time is p= 0.001, the linear
relationship between these variables is statisti-
cally significant.
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
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Table 2
Table 3
Table 4
THE CORRELATION OF NUMBER OF PIECES,
CUTTING TIME AND SEWING TIME IN
SKIRT GROUPS
Factors rpn
Number of pieces – cutting time 0.549 0.159 8
Number of pieces – sewing time 0.968 08
Fig. 3. Changes in the sewing time depending on the
number of pieces in skirt models
Fig. 4. Changes in the cutting time depending on the
number of pieces in men’s coat models
Fig. 5. Changes in the sewing time depending on the
number of pieces in men’s coat models
THE CORRELATION OF NUMBER OF PIECES,
CUTTING TIME AND SEWING TIME IN
MEN’S COAT GROUPS
Factors rpn
Number of pieces – cutting time 0.981 07
Number of pieces – sewing time 0.942 0.002 7
THE CORRELATION OF PERIMETER OF PIECES,
CUTTING TIME AND SEWING TIME IN
MEN’S COAT GROUPS
Factors rpn
Perimeter of pieces – cutting time 0.573 0.137 8
Perimeter of pieces – sewing time 0.929 0.001 8
Figure 6 shows the changing in the sewing time
depending on the perimeter of pieces.
Men’s coat models
Correlation analyses of the results of trials conducted
as 7 trials for men’s coat models were investigated
using the software SPSS. Values obtained as a result
of correlation are given in table 5.
When the results in table 5 are examined:
since the relationship between perimeter of pieces–
and cutting time is p = 0.012, the linear relation-
ship between these variables is statistically sig-
nificant;
since the relationship between the perimeter of–
pieces and sewing time is p= 0, the linear rela-
tionship between these variables is statistically
significant.
Figure 7 shows the changing in the cutting time
depending on the perimeter of pieces and figure 8
shows the changing in the sewing time depending on
the perimeter of pieces
RESULTS
Results regarding total number of pieces and
perimeter of pieces
In both product groups of the study, it was observed
that an increase in the number of pieces increases
the perimeter of pieces. If the model is divided into
higher number of pieces, lines to be attached are pro-
longed. And this causes the perimeter of pieces that
form the model to prolong. According to the results of
the study, it was proven that vertically cut models
have longer perimeters than horizontally cut models.
If the perimeter length is desired to be prolonged, the
model has to be divided into higher number of pieces.
This increases the number of pieces.
Results regarding number of pieces,
cutting time and sewing time
When number of pieces and cutting times were
examined while the increase in the number of pieces
had no effect on cutting time in skirt models, higher
number of pieces increased cutting time in men’s
coat models, while when number of pieces and
sewing times are examined, an increase in the num-
ber of pieces in all product groups prolonged the
sewing time. In both cutting and sewing processes
another factor related to the number of pieces is the
perimeter of pieces. Therefore, it was found more
appropriate to evaluate cutting and sewing time data
in comparison with the data for number of pieces and
perimeter of pieces. Data for number of pieces and
cutting time is given in table 6. Data for number of
pieces and sewing time is given in table 7.
Results regarding the perimeter of pieces, cut-
ting time and sewing time
In the previous evaluations, a positive correlation
was found, namely an increment in the number of
pieces increased the perimeter of pieces and cutting
and sewing processes depend completely on the
lengths of perimeters. Higher numbers of pattern
pieces on the model will certainly increase the total
perimeter lengths and therefore, changes will occur
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
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Fig. 6. Changes in the sewing time depending on the
perimeter of pieces in skirt models
Fig. 7. Changes in the cutting time depending on the
perimeter of pieces in men’s coat models
Fig. 8. Changes in the sewing time depending on the
perimeter of pieces in men’s coat models
Table 5
THE CORRELATION OF PERIMETER OF PIECES,
CUTTING TIME AND SEWING TIME IN
SKIRT GROUPS
Factors rpn
Perimeter of pieces – cutting time 0.866 0.012 7
Perimeter of pieces – sewing time 0.977 07
in cutting and sewing times depending on the prop-
erties of the systems used in the production.
When number of pieces, perimeter of pieces and cut-
ting times were examined, it was observed that incre-
ments in number of pieces and perimeter of pieces
had no effect on cutting time in skirt models whereas
in men’s coat models the increments in these ele-
ments prolonged the cutting time.
In computer aided cutting machines, cutting times
and characteristics are affected by a number of fac-
tors such as: height of layers, type of the fabric and
characteristics of the model – corners in the model,
number of rounds and stops, number of markings
and notches, numbers and characteristics of inner
lines to be cut, cutting distance and number of pat-
terns. All these factors affect cutting speed and deter-
mine cutting times in these computer aided cutting
machines used in the study.
When cutting times of a circle and a square with
same perimeter are examined, cutting time of the
square is longer than the circle because the knife has
to be taken out of the fabric layer three times due to
the need for turnings at right angels. But there is no
need for taking the knife out of the layer because
there is no corner turning in cutting the circle shape
and once cutting is started it continues without any
pause, therefore, the speed will be higher and cutting
time will be shorter. If number of marks, notches and
hole marks is high, this will also slow down the sys-
tem and prolong cutting time. When skirt models are
examined with same concerns, number of stops will
increase due to the number of darts, therefore,
although the perimeter length is short cutting speed
will slow down and cutting time will prolong.
The skirt product group is different from the men’s
coat group in terms of structure. Taking the applied
model criteria for the skirt groups into consideration,
when horizontally cut models are examined; sec-
ondary models are observed to have shorter perime-
ter of pieces. They are also cut in shorter cutting peri-
ods. The cutting time is closely related to not only the
model but also to the structure and working charac-
teristics of the computer aided cutting system used.
Factors such as measurement of the marker, length
of the cut, corner turnings, notches, holes and bents
closely affect the cutting time.
In models with less pattern functions compared to
skirts such as, men’s coat, increment in the number
of pieces and the perimeter of pieces prolong the cut-
ting time.
Regression equalities for cutting time in men’s coat
models are given below:
men’s coat cutting time [min.] =
= 3.438 + 8.99 102 perimeter of pieces [m] (1)
When number of pieces and sewing time is exam-
ined, in all models subject to the study, increment in
the number of pieces and the perimeter of pieces
affect the sewing time. The increment in the number
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
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RESEARCH FİNDİNGS ACCORDİNG TO
THE NUMBER OF PİECES AND CUTTİNG TİME
İN MARKER PLAN
Skirt models Cutting time,
min.
Number of
pieces
Classic 6.66 16
Flared 3.83 12
Horizontally cut, model 16.96 20
Horizontally cut, model 25.19 20
Vertically cut, model 17.64 24
Vertically cut, model 26.18 28
Both vertically and horizon-
tally cut, model 17.35 28
Both vertically and horizon-
tally cut, model 26.66 36
Men’s coat models
Classic 8.81 36
Horizontally cut, model 19.82 44
Horizontally cut, model 210.4 48
Vertically cut, model 110.09 44
Vertically cut, model 210.19 52
Both vertically and horizon-
tally cut, model 111.55 60
Both vertically and horizon-
tally cut, model 213 80
Table 6 Table 7
RESEARCH FİNDİNGS ACCORDİNG TO
THE NUMBER OF PİECES AND SEWİNG TİME
Skirt models Cutting time,
min.
Number of
pieces
Classic 9.539 4
Flared 6.792 3
Horizontally cut, model 110.628 5
Horizontally cut, model 210.567 5
Vertically cut, model 111.351 6
Vertically cut, model 211.991 7
Both vertically and horizon-
tally cut, model 112.545 7
Both vertically and horizon-
tally cut, model 214.333 9
Men’s coat models
Classic 14.733 9
Horizontally cut, model 116.141 11
Horizontally cut, model 215.619 12
Vertically cut, model 116.849 11
Vertically cut, model 219.061 13
Both vertically and horizon-
tally cut, model 118.585 15
Both vertically and horizon-
tally cut, model 222.174 20
of pieces prolongs the length of the lines to be sewed.
More lines to be sewed, means longer sewing time.
Regression equalities for sewing times for skirt and
men’s coat models are given below:
skirt sewing time [min.] =
= 0.276 + 0.282 perimeter of pieces [m] (2)
men’s coat sewing time [min.] 0.020 =
= 2.456 + 0.191 perimeter of pieces [m] (3)
Data for perimeter of pieces, cutting time and sewing
time are given in table 8.
CONCLUSIONS
Following the investigations of all factors and their
degrees of effect, it was observed that a characteris-
tic of a model is one of the important factors that
affect the productivity and time.
Time and productivity take the cost factor under its
influence and divert it. Cost and profit calculations
that only take into account the cost efficiency of the
fabric are inappropriate.
Labor, a very important factor that affects the cost
must be taken into consideration. The main factor
affecting the labor cost is the time. In this respect,
apparel manufacturers should handle both fabric and
labor costs as a whole in cost calculations.
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
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BIBLIOGRAPHY
[1] Denno, P. Aspects of a product model supporting apparel virtual enterprises. In: International Journal of Clothing
Science and Technology, 1997, vol. 9, no. 1, pp. 62-74
[2] Olaru, S., Mocenco, A., Teodorescu, M., Niculescu, C. Săliștean, A. Shape categories for the Romanian female
population and specific clothing recommendations. In: Industria Textilă, 2011, vol. 62, nr. 3, pp. 155 -160
[3] Jerrigen, M. H., Easterling, C. R. Fashion merchandising and marketing. Amazon Publishing, 1997
[4] Jones, R. M. The apparel industry. Blackwell Publishing, 2006, p. 328, ISBN 1405135999
[5] Chase, R., Aquiland, H. J. Production and operations management. Richard D. Irwing Inc., 1993, p. 194
[6] Erdogan, M. C. Erkek takim elbisesi üretiminde ekose boyutlarinin kumaş giderine etkisi. In: Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon,
1992, vol. 3, pp. 241-246
[7] Sieling, M. S., Curtin, D. Patterns of productivity change in men’s and boys’ suits and coats. Questia, Montly Labour
Rewiev, 1988, vol. 11
[8] Kansoy, O. The effects of model properties on fabric usage amount and costs on labour. Unpublished doctoral
theses, Ege University, 2003
RESEARCH FİNDİNGS ACCORDİNG TO
THE NUMBER OF PİECES AND SEWİNG TİME
Skirt models
Cutting
time,
min.
Sewing
time,
min.
Number
of
pieces
Classic 6.66 9.539 30.7
Flared 3.83 6.792 27.5
Horizontally cut, model 16.96 10.628 34.9
Horizontally cut, model 25.19 10.567 33.7
Vertically cut, model 17.64 11.351 40.9
Vertically cut, model 26.18 11.991 45.7
Both vertically and hori-
zontally cut, model 17.35 12.545 42
Both vertically and hori-
zontally cut, model 26.66 14.333 48.1
Men’s coat models
Classic 8.81 14.733 62.9
Horizontally cut, model 19.82 16.141 68.6
Horizontally cut, model 210.4 15.619 73.4
Vertically cut, model 110.09 16.849 76.2
Vertically cut, model 210.19 19.061 89.6
Both vertically and hori-
zontally cut, model 111.55 18.585 82.3
Both vertically and hori-
zontally cut, model 213 22.174 101
Table 8
Authors:
Dr. OKSAN ORAL
Prof. Dr. CETIN M. ERDOGAN
Dr. ESRA DİRGAR
Ege University
Bergama Technical and Business College
Textile Department
35700 Bergama – İzmir, Turkey
e-mail: oksan.kansoy@ege.edu.tr;esra.dirgar@ege.edu.tr
Through traditional arts, each generation adds the
gift of creativity to tradition, the sense of what is
beautiful, symbolic and well done. This specific value
is defined by the community rather than the creative
approach of a specific individual, therefore the valori-
fication of the creative ideas of fashion designers is
required in this respect. In order to keep the tradition
of true folk art, the hand stitching points were under-
lined in this paper, together with those performed
mechanically, and successfully used in the creation
of clothing, so popular even today.
This is the way the transition from technology to art
was made by textile expressions, but also by means
of a new approach and performance of the old enno-
blement manual techniques. The wool blades were
embroidered since the Middle Ages, with cross-
shaped points, while the women learned to write letters
even during those activities (fig. 1). These symbols
(spiral, circle, tangent to circle, diamond or triangle
and cross, symbolizing the sun and moon) were
taken also in decorating clothing during Cucuteni
period, becoming a source of inspiration even in the
present stage.
The elements specified originally were part of the
ornamentation of Neolithic clothing, a theory support-
ed also by the discovery of same symbols in artistic
traditions, belonging to other nations in Europe,
including the Romanian tradition of costumes deco-
ration (except for clothing, they were used to deco-
rate household objects, amulets, ceramic, wood,
stone or in building houses) [1].
STAGES, RESEARCHES AND
MODELS’ SUGGESTIONS
Some traditional motifs in our country and other
countries with common tradition (fig. 2 a, b, c), are a
constant source of creation for fashion designers,
finding successfully a place both in modern clothing
ornamentation, and in the hearts of the potential cus-
tomer, who will wear them. Preserved until today, the
tradition of enrichment of the textile surfaces but also
of clothing appeared in noble circles from Paris and
Versailles.
Current fashion promotes vividly natural trends.
Great designers have announced that they return to
nature, which will mean that the natural tendencies
are under the sign of normality, with predominant
The influence of traditional art in the current fashion design
MIHAELA CARP AUREL POPP
REZUMAT – ABSTRACT
Influenţa artei tradiţionale în creaţia vestimentară actuală
Arta tradiţională reprezintă ansamblul de activităţi artistice care sunt transmise de la o generaţie la alta, prin intermediul
experienţei directe, prin mediul familial sau prin instrumentele comunitare. Tehnicile şi formele artelor tradiţionale
evoluează însă foarte lent, de aceea se impune fructificarea efortului creator al designerilor vestimentari în ceea ce
priveşte creaţia, pentru a promova originalitatea şi diversitatea vestimentaţiei, elemente care sunt necesare în industria
modei, pentru care arta este o sursă importantă şi inestimabilă. Lucrarea evidenţiază unele aspecte privind relaţia dintre
arta tradiţională şi creaţia tehnică în vestimentaţie.
Cuvinte-cheie: artă tradiţională, design vestimentar, creaţie tehnică, industria modei
The influence of traditional art in the current fashion design
Traditional art represents the body of artistic activities that are transmitted from one generation to another by means of
direct experience, family or community tools. The techniques and the forms of traditional arts evolve very slowly, so it is
necessary to enrich the creative effort of fashion designers in terms of creativity, in order to promote originality and diver-
sity of clothing, which are necessary elements in the fashion industry, for which art is an important and invaluable source.
This paper highlights some aspects regarding the relationship between traditional art and technical creativity in fashion
design.
Key-words: traditional art, fashion design, technical creativity, fashion industry
217
industria textila
2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
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Fig. 1. Clothing in Cucuteni – Trypillia culture
(5500 BC – 2750 BC)
Source: Vladimir Dumitrescu – Bucharest, 1979;
graphic Zinayda Văşină
colors reminiscent of nature.
Fashion will be placed under the
tactile and special visual impres-
sions sign due to models and con-
texts, used for the most interesting
clothes. By making decorations
with modern techniques, one
imprints certain art prints and
stylistic features to compositions
and the report of the chosen
motifs give the fabrics and cloth-
ing a special look; the examples in
the following figures 2 d, e, f indi-
cate the possibilities of implement-
ing them with the help of mechan-
ical embroidery [2, 3].
The modern sewing and embroi-
dery machines have multiple pos-
sibilities for achieving these orna-
ments and similar seams of those
of folk art.
The technology has progressed in time, bringing for-
ward the current computerized embroidery together
with the special techniques and little secrets that from
the most appreciated method of embroidery and
enrichment of textile products. Embroidery is valuable
and because it has a great visual impact, it brings
light and brightness to these products (especially
when using high quality embroidery thread), but the
most important thing is that embroidery has a long
life, it does not deteriorate in time due to the repeat-
ed washings or other external factors.
Embroidery is an art by which one decorates or per-
sonalizes a variety of clothing products and other tex-
tile items with different uses. Years ago this art was
done manually, women were involved in this “job” of
ancient tradition that was taught from an early age.
After a while they started using a simple sewing
machine embroidery but the frame movement in
which the material for embroidery was tied up, was
also done manually, following the designs drawn on
the fabric [4, 5]. This can be achieved today mechan-
ically with the help of sewing and embroidery
machine (fig. 3 a, b).
The analysis of the traditional seam by the multiple
actual technological possibilities facilitates bringing
the folk art, the modes of composition and the enno-
blement of textile surfaces in foreground. It should be
noted however that any mechanical seam can have
beside the role of proper assembly also a role in dec-
oration.
Ethnic-inspired clothing is worn and appreciated in
most countries with tradition, these trends are com-
ing back strong in the current fashion, with decorative
accents, using all types of stiches and embroideries,
performed today by modern technologies, advanced
in time.
Based on these technologies, the present research
was carried out with suggestions for modern outfits
for women, having in this case as inspiration the
Romanian traditional costume in Muscel area (fig. 4
a, b) and will be characterized by unique features of
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
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Fig. 2. Types of embroideries performed with special mechanical embroidery machines:
a – zigzag embroideries; b – double zigzag embroideries; c – decorative satinated embroideries;
d, e, f – automatic specific programs, in the software of sewing and embroidery machines,
that perform those embroideries
d e f
a b c
Fig. 3. Stiches and embroideries samples, performed with semiautomatic
embroidery machines (automatic specific programs, in the software of
sewing and embroidery machines):
a– the sewing of different decorative traditional models included in the basic
programs; b– mixing the models, the mirror image of amodel;
c– decorative sewing
a b c
the folkloric garments, specific to this area, carried
out with great craftsmanship.
The shirt is made of cotton cloth, richly decorated
with handmade embroideries, and over this dress is
worn, made of silk fabric, wool or cotton, in which sil-
ver or gold threads are integrated. At holiday cos-
tumes, the peasant blouses and waist cords are dec-
orated with sequins or beads applied manually. The
peasant blouses are made of thin cloth, woven at
home (twisted cotton with rustic trend), preserving
the cut and the structure of Romanian traditional
shirts, ennobled with counted thread embroideries,
decorative compositions being placed on the sleeves
and chest, made with wire cotton [6].
The dominant chromatic is white-black, blue-purple
and the eternal gold or silver thread. It is known that
the Muscel head dress has unique motifs as women
create on their own and never repeat it, representing
an element of female folkloric garments in this area,
being an indispensable accessory for headwear, on
holidays and it is made of fine silk threads woven in
the house, decorated with geometric or floral motifs,
embroidered with lace technique, like the whole folk-
loric costume in that region. The head dress is pinned
on the head with a black velvet headband with beads
applications, arranged in geometric and floral combi-
nations.
The example shown in the previous figure is ana-
lyzed and a proper variant is elaborated, based on
the classic pattern of a dress with shoulder and waist
darts (fig. 5).
For this purpose, one can study examples from the
history of the costume or of the traditional costume of
other people [7].
The designer has the role of taking the products’
details, according to their structure, to achieve their
enrichment by different methods and to apply assem-
bling and proper finishing technologies, for example
the detailed study of design methods, combining the
traditional methods with those of the specific auto-
matic devices, which can be extended depending on
the production capacity of a unit. It is envisaged that,
regardless of the achieving method of the traditional
motifs, cannot be isolated by these modalities regard-
ing the presentation method of the materials used in
creating products [8]. These aspects are associated
with the characteristics regarding the definition of the
drapery, flexibility, rigidity and friction coefficient etc.,
characteristics which define the feel of the material.
The elaborated analysis of the relation between the
fineness and the thread color as well as the fineness
and the structure characteristics of the materials is
not excluded. By means of the technique and of the
materials (fig. 6, a, b, c, d, e, f) the originality of the
newly created clothing assembly was underlined,
imprinting new trends of the feminine fashion.
It concerns the classic pattern dress with bust and
waist darts (table 1) no sleeves, the total length of
191,6 cm. The top part of the dress is individually tai-
lored and it is inspired by the traditional Russian
sleeveless jacket (therefore two independent dresses
will be assembled together in lateral seams. The lower
parts will be completed independently of each other.
The face and the back of the above dress are identi-
cal therefore two superposed dressed, from which
the above one will be cut according to the pattern.
The zip will be on the left side of the dress, with a
length of cca 36 cm. It is mentioned that for the design,
one used the program Gemini Pattern Editor, with the
stages given in figures 7 and 8.
Following the presentations of the main stages of
design it is noted that the program allows the creation
of multiple models, if one starts from the basic pattern
shown in figure 5. This enables the creation of new
models by designing sleeves, pockets or collars,
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industria textila
2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
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Fig. 4. Traditional costume from Muscel decorated with
geometrical embroideries, inspiration source in modern
clothing: a– assembly; b– detail
Fig. 5. Clasic dress–basic pattern
ab
according some custom designs. The enrichment by
means of embroideries or other decorative stitches
can be the produced on details or parts of the prod-
uct, before assembling them.
CONCLUSIONS
This paper aims to promote cultural heritage, the
development of respect for the beauty of folk art, the
stimulation of curiosity for everything that means tra-
dition and Romanian traditions and customs, creating
opportunities that help textile designers present their
creative work products.
The perception of beauty and harmony of Romanian
folkloric textiles and the identification of some phyto-
morphic, zoomorphic, anthropomorphic, skeomor-
phic motifs etc., our generations and the future ones
will always have access to the inexhaustible source
of beauty and authentic aesthetic experience, which
is our cultural heritage.
The study of figurative language of Romanian folk
art, the artistic representations of an ornament as
interesting in the stylistic expression as it is full of
meaning, reveals a unity in diversity that marks the
originality of some cultural values , sources of ade-
quate systems of the artistic expression.
The individual research on the similarities of the tra-
ditional motifs with techniques to automatically
achieve the ornaments, have allowed the expansion of
the use of appropriate equipment for applications in
technical creation, customed to personalised products.
The embroidery and decorative stitching applications
on product details and landmarks, have an important
role in terms of product quality and clothing ensembles.
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 3
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af
b
c
d
e
Fig. 6. The taking-over of the traditional decorative
details in the suggested garments:
a– dress model decorated with embroideries inspired by
traditional costume; b– traditional geometric motif from
Mușcel area; c– styling of the traditional motif drepre-
sentation of mechanical embroidery;
d, e– the modality of mechanical execution of embroi-
dery done on automatic embroidery machine;
f– selection of the program especially for performing
mechanical embroidery
Fig. 7. Technical chart dress model face and back
(2nd stage)
Fig. 8. Working stages in designing the model
Table 1
TDESIGN DIMENSIONS – TABLE OF SIZES
Ref. Size, cm 38 l
1 Body height 168
2 Bust (chest) circumference 84
3 Hip circumference 94
4 Waist circumference 68
5 Product length 191,6
6 Back length to the waist line 41.4
8 Length of the shoulder 12.1
9 Bust addition 4
10 Waist addition 2.5
11 Hip addition 2
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
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Authors:
Drd. ing. MIHAELA CARP
Drd. ing. AUREL POPP
Universitatea Tehnică Gheorghe Asachi
Facultatea de Textile-Pielărie şi Management Industrial
Bd. D. Mangeron nr. 53, 700050 Iaşi
e-mail: mcarp@tex.tuiasi.ro; e-mail: apopp@tex.tuiasi.ro
POLIMERI RANFORSAȚI CU NANOPARTICULE
PENTRU DISPOZITIVE MEDICALE
Compania Foster Corporation, cu sediul în Putnam,
Connecticut/S.U.A., în colaborare cu unul dintre liderii
de piață în producerea compușilor polimerici pentru
dispozitive medicale, au lansat compozitele ranforsa-
te cu nanoparticule destinate dispozitivelor medicale
minim invazive, de tipul cateterelor, având o greutate
suplimentară de până la 30%.
Compușii ranforsați cu nanoparticule, cu o mare
capacitate de umplere, oferă un avantaj substanțial în
optimizarea proprietăților fizice ale rășinii de bază,
menținând, în același timp, capacitatea lor de pre -
lucrare în componente cu pereți subțiri.
Compușii ranforsați cu nanoparticule încorporează
nanoplachete ultrafine, care interacționează direct
cu structura polimerului, sporindu-i proprietățile de
rezistență la încovoiere și îmbunătățind rigiditatea
componentelor.
Până în prezent, pentru a asigura dispersia plachete-
lor ultrafine în matricea polimerică, polimerii de tipul
poliamidelor și elastomerii termoplastici posedau o
capacitate limitată de încărcare a nanomaterialelor,
de obicei de 15%. Compania Foster a dezvoltat
modele brevetate de îmbinare, de tip spiralat, capabi-
le de a realiza încărcări de până la 30%, având ca
rezultat o creștere a modulului de încovoiere cu până
la 300%, la cateterele obținute din elastomeri termo-
plastici, destinate domeniului medical.
Gama de compuși ranforsați cu nanoparticule, utili -
zați în producerea dispozitivelor medicale cu pereți
subțiri, include poliamidele, elastomerii termoplastici
și poliuretanii termoplastici, având un grad de încăr-
care pentru consolidarea nanoplachetelor cuprins
între 1 și 30%.
Tehnologia de nanoranforsare oferă posibilitatea de a
modifica proprietățile unui dispozitiv medical, fără în -
locuirea polimerului de bază, necesare pentru apli -
cațiile de coextrudare și lipire.
De exemplu, modulul de încovoiere al unui duro
metru
72, realizat dintr-un polimer termoplastic, poate fi
reglat la valori cuprinse între 690 și 2 758 MPa, folo-
sind nanoranforsări cu o încărcare de până la 30%.
Smarttextiles and nanotechnology, mai 2013, p. 7
DOCUMENTARE
BIBLIOGRAPHY
[1] Haşegan, M. Imprimeurile industriale – artă şi tehnologie. Editura Artes, Iaşi, 1998
[2] Mitu, S., Mitu, M. Bazele tehnologiei confecţiilor textile, vol. 1, 2. Editura Performantica, Iaşi, 2005
[3] Necef, O. K., Ondogan, Z. A study about garment collection preparation steps and quality control methods. In:
Industria Textilă, 2013, vol. 64, issue 3, pp. 163-167
[4] Popp, A., Babcineţchi, V., Carp, M. Modern processes of ennoblement for garment. In: Industria Textilă, 2012,
vol. 63, issue 2, pp. 79-84
[5] Papaghiuc, V., Creţu, M. Tehnici de înnobilare a suprafeţelor textile prin coasere. Editura Performantica, Iaşi, 2007
[6] Ion, O. Istorie şi cultură în Lereşti - Muscel. Editura Ars Docendi, 2004
[7] Carp, M., Mitu, S. Similitudini între arta tradiţională şi tehnologiile mecanice textile. Simpozionul anual al
specialiştilor din industria de tricotaje – confecţii, Iaşi, 4-5 decembrie 2009
[8] Carp, M. Broderiile industriale şi fuziunea între artă şi tehnologie. Simpozionul anual al specialiştilor din industria
de tricotaje – confecţii, Iaşi, 4-5 decembrie 2009
Nanotehnologii
Modern textile dyes are supposed to have high
degree chemical and photolytic stability in order
to keep their forms and colors. For that reason the
dyes are produced showing resistance to sunlight,
detergent, soap and water. These characteristics of
the dyes affect the methods of water treatment.
With the accumulation of the dyeing substance in
water environment, appears the danger of toxic and
carcinogenic products [1]. Releasing colored waste -
water into the environment may cause great dam-
ages to the human body, functions of kidneys, repro-
ductive system, liver, brain and nervous system [2].
In natural water masses occur aesthetic corruptions
due to the existence of color and it hinders the per-
meability of oxygen. The decrease of the decom-
posed oxygen in water masses severely affects the
life in water environment. For that reason eliminating
the dyes from wastewater is the basic environmental
problem and it is vital because the dyes are visible
even in low concentrations.
Wastewater resulted from dyeing may contain toxic
components and heavy metals due to chemicals and
dyeing substances [3]. With this structure dying
wastewater causes problems in refining facilities.
Thus, color removal has become the most important
environmental problem that can be faced in the mat-
ter of wastewater treatment [4].
SPECIFIC POLLUTANTS GENERATED
BY THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY
In textile processing, the industry uses a number of
dyes, chemicals, auxiliary chemicals and sizing mate-
rials. As a result, contaminated wastewater is gener-
ated, which can cause environmental problems
unless properly treated before its disposal.
The textile industry is characterized by several pollu-
tants, the most common ones being [5]:
•Presence of color in the wastewater is one of the
main problems in textile industry. Colors are easi-
ly visible to human eyes even at very low concen-
tration. Hence, color from textile wastes carries
significant esthetic importance. Most of the dyes
are stable and light or oxidizing agents have no
effect onto them. They are also not easily degrad-
able by the conventional treatment methods.
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Quality monitoring for wastewater generated by the textile finishing
IOANA CORINA MOGA MARIUS IORDĂNESCU
FLOAREA PRICOP RĂZVAN SCARLAT
ANGELA DOROGAN
REZUMAT – ABSTRACT
Monitorizarea calității apelor uzate, generate de industria textilă
Utilizarea tehnologiilor convenționale în scopul epurării apelor uzate, generate de industria textilă, creează probleme din
ce în ce mai grave inginerilor de mediu, din cauza restricțiilor din ce în ce mai dure de deversare a efluenților, impuse
prin legislația de mediu. În lucrare sunt prezentate rezultatele obţinute în urma cercetărilor derulate pe platforma Parcului
Industrial şi Tehnologic Giurgiu Nord, unde îşi desfăşoară activitatea societăţi comerciale din industria textilă şi unde s-a
dorit minimizarea impactului negativ asupra mediului, generat de fabricile de textile. Astfel, s-a realizat retehnologizarea
staţiei de epurare, precum şi îmbunătăţirea procesului de producţie, prin utilizarea unor coloranţi ecologici şi prin modi-
ficarea fluxului tehnologic de vopsire a ţesăturilor, în scopul reducerii încărcării cu poluanţi a apelor uzate. În lucrare este
prezentat un nou proces de vopsire ecologic şi modalităţile de proiectare a treptei biologice de epurare.
Cuvinte-cheie: epurare, ape uzate, monitorizare, bazin aerob, modelare, simulare
Quality monitoring for wastewater generated by the textile finishing
The use of conventional textile wastewater treatment processes becomes drastically challenged to environmental engi-
neers with increasing more and more restrictive effluent quality by water authorities. In the present paper are presented
the results obtained in two research projects. The paper presents the results obtained as a result of research carried out
on the platform of the Technological and Industrial Park Giurgiu North, where textile industry companies are operating
and where we wanted to minimize the negative environmental impact generated by the textile factories. We worked on
the refurbishment and technologization of the wastewater treatment palnt and the improvement of the production pro-
cess (using organic dyes and modifying the dyeing process flow of the fabric) in order to reduce the pollutants found in
the wastewater. A new environmentally friendly dyeing process is presented in this paper and also ways to design a
biological treatment stage.
Key-words: wastewater treatment, monitoring, aerobic basin, modeling, simulation
Removal of dyes from the effluent is a major prob-
lem in most of textile industry branches.
•Dissolved solids contained in the industry efflu-
ents are also a critical parameter. Use of common
salt and glauber salt etc. in processes directly
increases total dissolved solids (TDS) level in the
effluent.
•Wastewater generated by the textile industry is
not free from metal contents. There are mainly two
sources of metals. Firstly, the metals may come
as impurity with the chemicals used during pro-
cessing, such as caustic soda, sodium carbonate
and salts. The metal complex dyes are mostly
based on chromium.
•Due to the use of chlorine compounds in textile
processing, residual chlorine is found in the waste
flow.
•Textile effluents are often contaminated with non-
biodegradable organics termed as refractory
materials. Detergents are typical examples of
such materials. The presence of these chemicals
results in high chemical oxygen demand (COD)
value of the effluent. Organic pollutants, which
originate from organic compounds of dye stuffs,
acids, sizing materials, enzymes, tallow etc. are
also found in textile effluents.
Some values related to the characterization of
wastewater in the dry-house in which different dyes
and fibers are dyed are shown in table 1.
Some of the quality parameters that must be moni-
tored are mentioned in table 2 [6], as well as the max-
imum allowed values for the discharged effluents in
natural receptors (rivers, lakes – NTPA 001) [7] or in
municipal sewage systems (NTPA 002) [8].
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Table 1
Table 2
THE CHARACTERIZATION OF DYING WASTEWATER
Type of dye Fiber
variety Color
Biological
oxygen
demand,
mg/l
Biological
oxygen
demand,
mg/l
Total sus-
pended
solids,
mg/l
Dissolved
solids,
mg/l
pH
Acid Polyamide 4 000 240 315 14 2 028 5.1
1:2 metal complex Polyamide 370 570 400 5 3 945 6.8
Alkaline Acrylic 5 600 210 255 13 1 469 4.5
Direct Viscose 12 500 15 140 26 2 669 6.6
Reagent,
noncontinious Cotton 3 890 0 150 32 12 500 11.2
Reagent,
continious Cotton 1 390 102 230 9 691 9.1
Vat Cotton 1 910 294 256 41 3 945 11.8
Dispers,
high temperature Polyester 1 245 198 360 76 1 700 10.2
QUALITY INDICATORS FOR DISCHARGED WASTEWATER
Quality indicator Unit NTPA 001/2005 NTPA 002/2005
pH-6.5 - 8.5 6.5 - 8.5
Suspended matter mg/dm335 350
Biochemical oxygen demand mg/dm320 300
Chemical oxygen demand mg/dm370 500
Ammonium nitrogen mg/dm32.0 30
Total nitrogen mg/dm310.0 -
Total phosphorus mg/dm31.0 5.0
Sulphides and hydrogen sulphide mg/dm30.5 1.0
Sulphates mg/dm3600 600
Organic solvents extractable substances mg/dm320 30
Petroleum products mg/dm35.0 -
Biodegradable synthetic detergents mg/dm30.5 25
CASE STUDY – WASTEWATER TREATMENT
PLANT (WWTP) FROM GIURGIU NORTH
INDUSTRIAL AND TECHNOLOGICAL PARK
Experimental research on the finishing
biotechnology (pretreatment and dyeing)
of the cellulosic textile materials
The classical finishing technologies and biotechnolo-
gies for textile finishing were simultaneously experi-
enced at Giurgiu North Industrial and Technological
Park, in order to compare both mechanical and phys-
ical-chemical properties of the textile materials as
well as the results in terms of wastewater pollution.
The comparative technological scheme of conven-
tional and organic cellulosic textile materials finishing
(fig. 1) and the dyeing process diagram (fig. 2) high-
light the advantages of using biotechnology instead
of classical technologies.
The comparative results of wastewater quality indica-
tors for classical technologies and biotechnologies,
as well as pollution reduction percentage are pre-
sented in table 3.
The experimental results presented in table 3 are
obtained at a Romanian textile factory. Both process-
es were tested (the classical one and the ecological
process) and samples were taken from the wastewa-
ter generated. The samples were analyzed and the
main quality indicators were determined. The textile
factory produces denim cotton fabric. The dyes used
for denim fabric are very toxic and in many countries
they are forbidden. That is why, this topic is very
important and it was studied during several years of
research. The results obtained at the Romanian tex-
tile company are very good and a significant improve-
ment of the quality indicators can be observed in
table 3. The new conceived technology was tested
and the following socio-economical effects were
obtained [9]:
– reduction of technological phases number (phas-
es cumulating);
reduction of technological process time by 45 min-–
utes;
reduction of technological consumptions/kg tex-–
tile material by: 56 l water, 0.007 kWh power,
1.02 kg steam, 0.05 kg chemical products;
reduction of total costs/kg textile material (water,–
power, steam, chemical products) by 0.293 euro/
kg textile material;
dying quality enhancement (dye fastness enhance-–
ment);
value reduction of quality indicators for wastewa-–
ter (pH, COD, BOD, suspended solids, sulphates,
detergents), by 30 – 70%;
cost reduction for wastewaters de-pollution by–
2 – 4 euro/l wastewater.
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
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Fig. 1. Comparative scheme of the classical and ecologi-
cal technological process Fig. 2. Ecological process diagramme
COMPARATIVE ANALYSES OF WASTEWATER QUALITY INDICATORS
Test pHCOD
mgO2/l BOD
mgO2/l
Suspended
solids,
mg/l
Sulphates,
mg/l Detergents,
mg/l Residuum,
mg/l
P1wastewater –
classical process 12.3 449.82 807.38 167 184.5 6.3 1 810
P2wastewater –
ecological process 7.6 201.9 275.8 11 92.9 5.7 1 100
NTPA 002/2005 6.5-8.5 300 500 350 600 25 -
Diminution of P1/P2, % 38.2 55.1 65.8 93.4 49.6 9.5 39.2
Table 3
Wastewater monitoring
The case study presents the wastewater treatment
plant in Giurgiu Nord Technological and Industrial
Park (GNTIP). The wastewater treatment process is
conducted in five circuits (fig. 3), each with its own
specificity: wastewater circuit, air circuit, sludge cir-
cuit, reagents circuit, wastewater circuit.
Wastewater is sent with pre-pumps in the screen
chambers. It is afterwards directed to an under-
ground basin where the flow gets homogenized, still
and uniform. A submersible pump directs the wastew-
ater to the reaction chamber of the wastewater treat-
ment plant. The following two stages are for settling
solids and removing foam. Wastewater circuit contin-
ues with water passing through an underground aer-
ated basin and finally through a settling compart-
ment.
Air circuit consists of a blower, air compressor, sys-
tems of pipes and tubes for air transport, system of
diffusers and electric and control panel of the 2
pieces of equipment. Air is blown through perforated
pipe type diffusers made of polyethylene within the
reaction chamber and in the underground basin
which follows after the stage 2 – settling. If necessary
air is introduced by compressor in the basin situated
after the reaction chamber.
Sludge is extracted from the 2 mechanical treatment
stages. The coarse suspended solids are also
retained by rare screens and removed from the waste -
water mass. Sludge is discharged from wastewater
treatment using pumps. Reagents circuit consists of
chemical treatment plant and solution supply circuit
of the reaction chamber.
To discharge wastewater into the public sewerage
network an upstream network manhole is provided.
This is the place where samples were taken from, in
order to be tested, for the determination of water
quality and the treatment degree.
Monitoring system will cover the entire process flow
taking data from the existing plants and from mea-
surement and control equipment, installed to perma-
nently monitor the water quality.
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Fig. 4. Overall diagram of monitoring and automation installations
Fig. 3. Existing treatment flow in Giurgiu North Technological and Industrial Park [9]
Monitoring application is a type of SCADA program
(Supervisory Control and Data Acquisition) and col-
lects data in the field using a data acquisition system
with installed flow PLC for process control and for the
online analog signals acquisition.
SCADA system proposed for the automation and
monitoring of wastewater treatment plant in Giurgiu
Nord Technological and Industrial Park is shown in
figure 4. Selection of monitoring points takes into
account significant point sources, appropriate quality
monitoring points of environmental factors (in our
case,monitoring of wastewater before and after treat-
ment) and monitoring of critical process parameters.
Within the water treatment plant of the GNTIP the fol-
lowing sensors can be located: dissolved oxygen
sensor, 2 pH sensors, turbidity/ suspended solids
sensor, ammonium and NO3sensor, CCO Cr sensor,
sensor for measuring the sludge level.
Mathematical modeling and monitoring
of the aeration processes
The second stage is for biological treatment of waste -
water loaded with organic matter. Commonly used
process is the aerobic process dependent on main-
taining the dissolved oxygen concentration to 1–3
mg/l. The oxygen quantity inside the basin should
cover both microorganisms breathing and oxidation
of organic matter. Considerable savings can be
achieved by realizing a correlation between the oxy-
gen demand and the operation of the blowers. In the
process of aerobic biological treatment with activated
sludge, the following monitoring sensors can be
installed [10]:
•in the aerobic basin can be measured the values
for organic load, ammonia, total phosphorus (if
not measured at the output of the primary clarifi-
er), dissolved oxygen, redox potential, pH, ammo-
nium concentration, concentration of suspended
solid particles inside the aeration tank and based
on these values can be controlled the activated
sludge recirculation pump, injected air flow, air
pressure injected into the aerobic system;
•in the secondary clarifier can be measured the
values for sludge quantity, concentration of sus-
pension solids in recirculating activated sludge,
the height of activated sludge layer inside the clar-
ifier, concentration of suspended solids dis-
charged from the clarifier.
Numerical simulations for the aeration
processes
The numerical simulations were realized for the reac-
tion chamber, where an aeration system is mounted.
Near the reaction basin is placed the first settling
basin. Here, air is introduced inside the wastewater
mass with the help of an additional compressor.
The dissolved oxygen profiles are presented in fig-
ures 5 – 8. The maximum values are obtained near
the diffusers. In this area it will be obtained a transfer
process of high intensity, because of the renewal
contact area between gas and liquid, where the gas
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
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Fig. 5. Dissolved oxygen profiles
Fig. 6. Dissolved oxygen dispersion
Fig. 7. Dissolved oxygen profiles (zoom)
bubble are formed and detach from the diffuser.
While the gas bubbles are rising inside the water col-
umn from the biological reactor, the value of dis-
solved oxygen is decreasing because of: oxygen
consumption needed at organic matters biochemical
oxidation, the oxygen concentration from the air bub-
ble is reduced, due to the transfer effect near the dif-
fuser. Inside the reaction chamber the level of the dis-
solved oxygen is higher than the level obtained inside
the clarifier. This situation is normal, because inside
the reaction chamber are placed more diffusers and
the basin is reduced compared to the clarifier.
Because the total length of the 2 basins is very high
(18 m) in figures 7 and 8 are presented to sections
only for the areas with aeration systems (a zoom is
realized). Here, more easily, can be observed the
concentration of the oxygen profiles.
As was mentioned before, the air compressor is not
always in function. So, for this particular situation,
additional numerical simulations are realized and
presented in figures 9 and 10. Here, the values for
the dissolved oxygen are lower, fact that is explained
by using a decreased number of diffusers. Depending
on the wastewater characteristic, the air compressor
introduces or not air inside the first part of the clarifi-
er. The simplified form for the dispersion equation
was considered for the realization of the numerical
simulations [11] :
C C C
+
(
uC
)
+
(
wC
)=
(
ex
)
+
(
ey
)
– kCC
t x yxx y y
(1)
where:
ex,eyrepresent the dispersion coefficients, on the
two direction of fluid current, because of the tur-
bulent regime are considered the average val-
ues for these coefficients;
u, v is velocity components on the two axes taken in
consideration;
C – concentration for the dissolved oxygen;
k– oxygen consumption for organic matter degra-
dation and for microorganism breathing process.
CONCLUSIONS
During our research we have developed a conti-
nuous versatile dyeing process, with organic sulfur
dyes, characterized by minimal water consumption,
low amount of waste water, “zero” dye in wastewater.
The continuous dyeing process with sulfur dyes with
high exhaustion degree is adaptable also to the
semi-continuous process in which the dye is fixed by
oxidation/fixation without prewash.
The procedure allows fixing the dye 100%, requiring
only a rinsing after the fixing stage.
It is a short procedure, eco-friendly, and by compari-
son with the classic procedure (padding-laying with
reactive vinylsulphonic dyes or padding – vapouring
with sulphur dyes), leads to a decrease in water con-
sumption of about 90%.
In order to determine the main quality indicators of
wastewater on various technological processes there
227
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
˘
Fig. 8. Dissolved oxygen dispersion (zoom)
Fig. 9. Dissolved oxygen dispersion (zoom)
(the air compressor is not in operation)
Fig. 10. Dissolved oxygen dispersion (zoom)
(the air compressor is not in operation)
were performed comparative studies. In this regard,
we have performed dyeing both with classical dyes
and sulfur dyes with a high degree of exhaustion. We
have sampled wastewater from both processes and
performed analyses within accredite laboratory.
Better results were obtained in the case of using the
ecological technology with sulphur dyes with high
exhaustion degree, and the quality indicators of the
wastewater were reduced (by 33–97)% compared to
the quality indicators of the wastewater resulted from
the classic dyeing technology. The sulphites quantity
was diminished significanlty (97%).
The numeric simulations based on mathematical
modelling have led to the proper dimensioning of the
aeration system within the wastewater treatment
plant.
AKNOWLEDGEMENTS
The work has been co-funded by the Sectorial Operational
Programme Human Resources Development 2007–2013
of the Romanian Ministry of Labor, Family and Social
Protection through the Financial Agreement POS-
DRU/89/1.5/S/62557 and by the Romania-Bulgaria Cross-
Border Cooperation Programme 2007–2013 (project ENVI-
CONTEH no. MIS - ETC cod 129).
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
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BIBLIOGRAPHY
[1] Petropol, G. D. Surse de apă şi ingineria apelor reziduale. Note de curs, 2009
[2] Mitchell, M., Stapp, W. Red river basin water quality monitoring manual, 2005
[3] Bertea, A. F., Butnaru, R. Polyamide dyeing wastewater recycling after Fenton-like oxidative treatment. In: Industria
Textilă, 2012, vol. 63, issue 6, pp. 322-326
[4] Odenbach, R. Standard operating procedures for water quality monitoring. Minnesota: Red Lake Water District,
2001
[5] Metcalf and Eddy. Wastewater engineering treatment, disposal, reuse. 3rd edition, Mcgraw-Hill Book Co., 1991
[6] Supra, L. F. Overview of wipp effluent monitoring program, 2005
[7] NTPA-001/2002 - Normativ din 28 februarie 2002 privind stabilirea limitelor de încărcare cu poluanți a apelor uzate
industriale și orășenești la evacuarea în receptorii naturali
[8] NTPA-002/2002 - Normativ din 28 februarie 2002 privind condițiile de evacuare a apelor uzate în rețelele de
canalizare ale localităților și direct în stațiile de epurare
[9] Pricop, F. et al. Integrated systems of monitoring and controlling wastewater quality. In: Industria Textilă, 2013,
vol. 64, issue 1, pp. 40-45
[10] Robescu, D., Lanyi, S., Robescu, D. Controlul automat al proceselor de epurare a apelor uzate. Editura Tehnică,
2004
[11] Mandiș, I. C., Robescu, D., Pricop, F. Mathematical modeling and numerical simulation of ozone mass transfer pro-
cesses used to treat wastewaters from textile industry. In: Industria Textilă, 2009, vol. 60, issue 4, pp. 220-227
Authors:
Cerc. şt. gr. III dr. ing. IOANA CORINA MOGA
Universitatea Politehnica București
Str. Splaiul Independenței nr. 313, 060042 Bucureşti
e-mail: corinamoga@yahoo.com
Cerc. şt. gr. III ing. FLOAREA PRICOP
Cerc. şt. gr. III ing. RĂZVAN SCARLAT
MARIUS IORDĂNESCU
Cerc. şt. gr. III dr. ing. ANGELA DOROGAN
Institutul Naţional de Cercetare-Dezvoltare pentru Textile şi Pielărie
Str. Lucreţiu Pătrăşcanu nr. 16, 030508 Bucureşti
e-mail: certex@ns.certex.ro
CERERI MARI PENTRU NANOFIBRELE
DE TITAN
Cercetătorii de la Universitatea Nanyang, din
Singapore, au creat o nanofibră din dioxid de titan, cu
costuri de producție reduse și cu multiple utilizări,
cum ar fi: generarea hidrogenului și producerea de
apă curată și chiar de energie, desalinizarea apei și
recuperarea energiei din apele desalinizate, reali -
zarea de celule solare flexibile, dublarea duratei de
viață a bateriilor litiu-ion, producerea unui nou tip de
bandaj antibacterian.
Echipa de cercetare coordonată de Darren Sun, prof.
asociat la Universitatea Nanyang, a transformat cris -
ta
lele de dioxid de titan în nanofibre brevetate, din
care pot fi fabricate, cu ușurință, membrane filtrante
flexibile, obținute dintr-o combinație de carbon,
cupru, zinc sau cositor, în funcție de produsul final ce
urmează a fi realizat.
Dioxidul de titan este un material ieftin și ușor de
procurat. S-a dovedit științific faptul că dioxidul de
titan are capacitatea de a accelera reacțiile chimice
fotocatalitice și că este hidrofil, cu o afinitate ridicată
pentru apă. Datorită acestor avantaje, nanomateria -
lele obținute din dioxid de titan sunt ușor de produs și
au un preț de cost redus, având un potențial imens
pentru a face față provocărilor globale continue din
domeniul energetic și cel al protecției mediului.
Odată cu creșterea populației (8,3 miliarde de locu -
itori, în 2013), cererea globală de energie, alimente și
apă potabilă este tot mai mare. Legat de aceasta,
prof. Sun menționa: “Deși nu există o soluție rezo -
nabilă pentru rezolvarea celor două mari provocări
existente la nivel mondial – energia regenerabilă
ieftină și furnizarea unor mari cantități de apă curată
– situația poate fi îmbunătățită cu ajutorul membra nei
multifuncționale, care conține nanoparticule din dio-
xid de titan, factorul-cheie în descoperirea unor astfel
de soluții... Cu acest nanomaterial unic, echipa speră
să poată transforma deșeurile de astăzi în resursele
de mâine de apa curată și de energie”.
Dioxidul de titan are o mulțime de aplicații: poate
genera, în același timp, hidrogen și apă curată,
atunci când este expus la lumina soarelui; poate fi
utilizat la confecționarea, cu costuri reduse, a unor
membrane filtrante flexibile, cu proprietăți speciale
antivegetative; desanilinizează apa în cazul utilizării
ca membrană pentru osmoză, ce permite un flux mare;
valorifică energia din apa rezultată în urma de salini -
zării; poate fi folosit la producerea, cu costuri reduse,
a celulelor solare flexibile, generatoare de electri -
citate; dublează durata de viață a bateriilor litiu-ion,
atunci când este utilizat ca anod; datorită proprie -
tăților antibacteriene superioare, poate fi utilizat la
dezvoltarea unui nou tip de bandaj antibacterian.
Inițial, pentru a realiza membrane antibacteriene
destinate filtrării apei și împiedicării dezvoltării bacte -
riilor care blochează porii membranelor și opresc tre-
cerea fluxului de apă, Sun a folosit dioxid de titan cu
oxid de fier. Pe parcursul experimentelor, echipa a
descoperit că aceste membrane ar putea acționa ca
fotocatalizatori, transformând – sub acțiunea razelor
solare – apa uzată în hidrogen și oxigen. Un astfel de
efect este obținut, de obicei, cu ajutorul platinei, un
metal prețios scump și rar.
“Cu o astfel de descoperire, este posibil să se reali-
zeze, cu costuri mai mici, tratarea apelor uzate simul-
tan cu stocarea energiei solare sub formă de hidro-
gen, care să poată fi disponibilă în orice moment din
zi sau din noapte, indiferent dacă este sau nu soare,
ceea ce o face cu adevărat o sursă de combustibil
curat ... Astfel, se obține o producție de hidrogen mult
mai ieftină, cu un randament de aproximativ trei ori
mai mare decât în cazul folosirii platinei. Con co -
mitent, se poate produce apă curată, cu un cost al
energiei aproape de zero, ceea ce ar putea schimba
sistemul actual de reciclare a apei, peste tot în lume”
– a declarat Sun.
Hidrogenul este un combustibil curat, care poate fi
utilizat pentru pilele de combustie auto sau în cen -
trale electrice, pentru generarea electricității.
Această descoperire, care a fost publicată recent în
revista academică Water Research, a arătat că o
cantitate mică de nanomaterial (0,5 g de nanofibre
din dioxid de titan, tratate cu oxid de cupru) poate
genera 1,53 ml de hidrogen pe oră, atunci când este
introdus într-un litru de apă uzată. Prin această meto-
dă, se produce o cantitate de hidrogen de trei ori mai
mare, decât în cazul folosirii platinei. În funcție de
tipul de apă uzată, cantitatea de hidrogen generată
poate ajunge chiar la 200 ml pe oră.
Particulele de dioxid de titan nu numai că ajută ca
apa să fie descompusă, dar ele pot face ca mem -
branelele filtrante să fie mai hidrofile, permițând apei
să treacă cu ușurință, în timp ce contaminanții sunt
respinși, inclusiv sarea, ceea ce este perfect pentru
desalinizarea apei prin osmoză. Pornind de la aceas-
ta, a fost realizată o noua membrană pentru osmoză,
care permite un flux mai mare. Această descoperire,
publicată recent în revista Energy and Environmental
Science, reprezintă primul raport privitor la nano -
fibrele și particulele de TiO2utilizate într-un sistem de
osmoză, pentru producerea apei curate și generarea
de energie.
Datorită proprietăților antimicrobiene și a costurilor
reduse, aceste membrane pot fi folosite pentru rea -
lizarea bandajelor antibacteriene respirabile, care pot
combate infecțiile – în cazul rănilor deschise, și pot
grăbi procesul de vindecare, permițând oxigenului să
pătrundă în ghips. Proprietățile acestor membrane
sunt similare cu cele ale bandajelor de plastic,
comercializate în prezent pe piață.
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
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DOCUMENTARE
Materii prime
Proiectele de cercetare derulate au arătat că, atunci
când este tratat cu alte materiale sau când se
regăsește sub o altă formă (cristalină), dioxidul de
titan poate avea și alte utilizări, cum ar fi producerea
celulelor solare. Prin realizarea unei plăci poli cris -
taline din dioxid de titan negru, echipa de cercetare a
dezvoltat o celulă solară flexibilă, care permite
generarea electricității de la razele solare.
În același timp, o altă echipă a profesorului Sun se
preocupă de dezvoltarea nanomaterialelor din dioxid
de titan negru, în scopul producerii bateriilor litiu-ion,
folosite la dispozitivele electronice. Rezultatele pre -
liminare ale au arătat că, atunci când nanoparticulele
din dioxid de titan modificate cu carbon sunt utilizate
ca anod, ele pot dubla capacitatea energetică a
bateriilor litiu-ion, oferindu-le o durată de viață mult
mai lungă.
Sursa: www.ntu.edu.sg
NEŢESUTE DIN NANOFIBRE PENTRU
REGENERAREA ŢESUTURILOR
Companiile germane Biopharm GmbH, cu sediul în
Heidelberg, şi Freudenberg –cu sediul în Weinheim,
lider în sectorul neţesutelor, au elaborat Brevetul inter -
naţional 2012/175611, publicat în 27 decembrie 2012,
care tratează neţesutele ce conţin proteina GDF-5.
Materialele sunt special proiectate pentru a accelera
procesele de regenerare a ţesuturilor şi de vindecare
a leziunilor, iar brevetul elaborat acoperă domeniul
de utilizare a acestora ca pansamente şi tampoane
pentru leziuni, dar şi ca implanturi.
GDF-5 este o moleculă morfogenă, care susţine pro -
liferarea şi diferenţierea celulelor din ţesuturi, precum
și refacerea ţesutului. Se înrudeşte cu GDF-6 şi GDF-7,
aceste trei proteine prezentând proprietăţi biologice
comparabile şi un grad foarte ridicat al omologiei
secvenţei de aminoacizi. S-a demonstrat faptul că
aceste proteine îndeplinesc, în primul rând, rolul de
inductori şi reglatori importanţi pentru oase şi cartilaje.
Proteinele de tipul GDF-5, ce reprezintă factori de
creştere, au fost utilizate cu succes în cercetarea
terapeutică şi chirurgia recuperativă, ele susţinând
procesele de vindecare naturală a diferitelor ţesuturi
vătămate, fie independent, fie în combinaţie cu mate -
riale cu matrice specifică. Deşi au fost dezvoltate
câteva compoziţii farmaceutice cu conținut de protei-
ne mature, active biologic, înrudite cu GDF-5,
formarea şi manipularea acestora a fost proble ma -
tică, din cauză că proteina matură tinde să inter -
acţioneze cu câteva materiale solide şi are o
solubilitate foarte mică în condiţii fiziologice.
În scopul vindecării leziunilor, au fost dezvoltate
pansamente chirurgicale atât sub formă de loţiune,
cât şi în formă solidă, realizate cu diferite contururi și
dimensiuni şi din diferite tipuri de materiale, pentru a
asigura cicatrizarea rănii în condiţii semisterile. Unele
pansamente sunt confecţionate din colageni, altele
din componente sintetice, cum ar fi polimerii termo -
plastici amorfi.
Există pansamente de ultimă generaţie, pentru le -
ziuni, care posedă, suplimentar, proprietăţi de admi -
nistrare a unor medicamente, cum ar fi anti bio ticele
sau citokinele EGF (factor de creştere epi dermică) şi
PDGF/Becaplermin (factor de creştere derivat din
plachete). PDGF modificat genetic este disponibil în
comerț sub denumirea de Regranex, ca gel topic
pentru vindecarea leziunilor (0,01%). Acesta a primit
aprobarea de utilizare în tratarea ulceraţiilor picio rului
diabetic, extinse la ţesutul subcutanat şi în profunzime.
Pentru vindecarea leziunilor şi regenerarea altor ţesu -
turi sunt solicitate, mai ales, materiale care livrează
corpului omenesc proteine ce se comportă ca factori
de creştere şi de diferenţiere. De aceea, scopul deți -
nătorilor brevetului menționat a fost acela de a îmbu -
nătăţi utilitatea terapeutică a GDF-5 şi a proteinelor
înrudite, prin furnizarea unor materiale şi dispozitive
noi de vindecare a leziunilor. Noile pansa mente
pentru leziuni sunt confecţionate din textile neţesute,
care conţin cel puţin o substanţă activă bio logic, în
special substanţe antimicrobiene şi antibiotice.
Pe parcursul studiilor privind îmbunătăţirea utilităţii
terapeutice a GDF-5 şi a proteinelor înrudite, inven -
tatorii prezentei aplicaţii au descoperit că astfel de
neţesute sunt adecvate, în primul rând, pentru furni -
zarea de proteine cu factor de creştere şi de dife ren -
ţiere. Combinaţia dintre GDF-5 şi neţesutele biore -
sor babile a dus la obținerea unor efecte neaşteptate,
benefice aplicării proteinei GDF-5.
Neţesutele biodegradabile au furnizat un substrat
pentru GDF-5, prezentând o eliberare mai intensă de
proteină matură, dar și bune proprietăţi de mani pu -
lare. Această combinaţie de administrare a proteinei
GDF-5 va fi controlată la locul de aplicare şi, prin
urmare, va apărea efectul factorului de creştere în
locul vizat de acţiunea farmacologică. Pe lângă acest
control spaţial, cantităţi mai mari de GDF-5 activ sunt
extrase din neţesutele biodegradabile într-un interval
de câteva zile. Datorită încorporării proteinei GDF-5
în materialele neţesute, efectele de precipitare de -
pen dente de pH sunt depăşite şi, totodată, este
micșorată interacţiunea cu materialele solide.
Sursa: www. biopharm.de
NOUL SISTEM 4SPIN CU JET SPOREȘTE
PRODUCTIVITATEA
Ca urmare a eforturilor depuse pentru dezvoltarea
de noi tehnologii capabile să producă nanofibre din
materiale greu filabile, dezvoltatorii de la firma
Contipro, din Republica Cehă, au reușit să crească
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2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
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Textile neþesute
Nanotehnologii
în mod semnificativ producția de nanofibre, prin ela -
bo rarea unui nou sistem cu jet. În funcție de soluția
folosită, acest sistem cu jet ar putea fi de șapte ori
mai productiv decât tehnologia actuală.
Datorită proprietăților excepționale, nanomaterialele
pot fi utilizate în diverse domenii, de la medicină la
aplicațiile de mediu. Cu toate acestea, utilizarea lor
pe scară largă este împiedicată de prețul ridicat al
nanomaterialelor, compa rativ cu cel al materialelor
clasice. De aceea, nanomate rialele sunt folosite
numai atunci când beneficiile pro prietăților lor sunt
mai mari decât prețul.
În timp ce cea mai utilizată metodă industrială de
producție a nanofibrelor se bazează pe formarea aces -
tora din polimeri, prin electrofilare în câmp electro -
static, sistemul brevetat multijet, fără ac, asigură for-
marea fibrelor cu ajutorul unui flux de aer cald, format
în jurul jetului. Acest lucru face posibilă obți nerea de
nanofibre din soluții foarte vâscoase sau din soluții cu
un procent foarte mare de solvent și, de asemenea,
crește în mod semnificativ pro ductivitatea jetului,
reducând astfel costurile de producție a nano -
materialelor.
Scopul inițial al proiectului l-a constituit elaborarea
unui sistem cu jet care să permită dezvoltarea de noi
tipuri de materiale pentru medicină. Curând, prin
comparațiile testelor de laborator, s-a constatat că
metoda elaborată este mult mai eficientă decât
metoda clasică de producție a nanofibrelor. Mai mult,
noua tehnologie oferă condiții controlate și reglajul
cu mare precizie al jetului, permițând atingerea unor
valori mult mai stabile ale caracteristicilor nano -
fibrelor produse în cadrul proceselor de lungă durată.
Deoarece nanofibrele sunt de mii de ori mai fine
decât un fir de păr uman, orice modificare minoră a
caracteristicilor acestora este de mare importanță.
Noul sistem cu jet, brevetat, a fost dezvoltat ca un
modul pentru dispozitivul de producție a nanofibrelor
4SPIN, lansat de Contipro, în Japonia, la sfârșitul
lunii ianuarie 2013. Acest dispozitiv a fost conceput,
în special, pentru îmbunătățirea producției de nano -
fibre, în condiții de labo rator, iar sistemul multijet fără
ac s-a dovedit a fi cel mai eficient modul dintre emi -
țătorii furnizați.
Versiunea pilot a dispozitivului a fost concepută de
Contipro, în laboratoarele sale, și va fi urmată de o
unitate complet operațională pentru producția de
nanofibre. În acest sens, numeroase dispozitive
Contipro sunt destinate să ofere mijloace ample de
transfer al rezultatelor cerce tării nanomaterialelor de
la stadiul de laborator la practici de producție și
clienți. Acest lucru poate fi realizat cu ajutorul echi -
pamentului de laborator existent, cu emi țători variind
de la un electrod cu ac la un sistem multijet fără ac,
precum și cu ajutorul unei viitoare versiuni pilot și,
mai ales, prin intermediul versiunii complet opera țio -
nale 4SPIN.
Un alt element care diferențiază seria de echipa -
mente de filare 4SPIN de alte dispozitive existente pe
piață este posibilitatea de a dezvolta noi aplicații ale
biopolimerilor în domeniul medical.
Smarttextiles and nanotechnology, mai 2013, p. 8
NOI PERFORMANȚE ALE CELULELOR SOLARE
CU PELICULE SUBȚIRI
Laboratoarele federale elvețiene pentru știința mate -
rialelor și tehnologie – Empa, au realizat celule
solare cu pelicule subțiri, pe bază de substraturi poli-
merice flexibile, cu o eficiență record, de 20,4%.
Celulele dezvoltate în cadrul Laboratorului pentru
Pelicule Subțiri și Celule Fotovoltaice se bazează pe
un material semiconductor din seleniură de cupru,
indiu și galiu (CIGS), cunoscut pentru potențialul său
de a oferi electricitate solară eficientă și rentabilă. În
prezent, se dorește o gamă mai largă de aplicații
industriale ale acestei tehnologii. Recordul eficienței
energetice de 20,4%, care a fost atins pentru ultima
generație de celule solare CIGS cu pelicule subțiri,
pe bază de substraturi polimerice flexibile, reprezintă
o îmbunătățire semnificativă față de recordul anterior,
de 18,7%, obținut de aceeași echipă în mai 2011.
Echipa a optimizat caracteristicile stratului CIGS,
obținut la temperaturi scăzute, care absoarbe lumina
și contribuie la obținerea curentului fotoelectric din
celulele solare. Valoarea eficienței celulelor a fost
ates
tată de către Institutul Fraunhover pentru
Sistemele Solare (ISE) – din Freiburg, Germania.
Noul record Empa în ceea ce privește eficiența celu -
lelor solare flexibile depășește în prezent valoarea
record de 20,3% pentru celule solare CIGS aplicate
pe substraturi din sticlă și atinge cea mai ridicată
eficiență pentru celulele solare pe bază de plăci de
siliciu policristalin.
Totodată, a fost eliminată diferența de eficiență dintre
celulele solare pe bază de plăci de siliciu policristalin
și celulele cu pelicule subțiri CIGS.
Peliculele subțiri și modulele solare flexibile, de înaltă
performanță, sunt atractive pentru numeroase apli -
cații, cum ar fi: fermele solare, acoperișurile și fața -
dele clădirilor, automobilele și electronicele portabile.
Ele pot fi produse utilizând procesele continue
“roll-to-roll”, care oferă reduceri ale costurilor ulte -
rioare, în comparație cu tehnologiile standard pe
bază de siliciu.
“Seria de eficiențe record ale celulelor solare CIGS,
flexibile, dezvoltate la Empa, demonstrează perfor -
manța excelentă a celulelor solare cu pelicule subțiri,
comparativ cu cea a celulelor de siliciu policristalin ...
Acum este momentul pentru următoarea etapă – o
tehnologie aplicată la scară largă cu un partener
industrial, care să acopere domenii vaste ale unui
proces de producție eficient din punct de vedere al
costurilor” – a declarat Gian-Luca Bona, directorul
Empa.
Empa colaborează în prezent cu Flisom, o companie
recent înființată, implicată în industrializarea celulelor
solare flexibile CIGS.
Sursa: www. empa.ch
231
industria textila
2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
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Noi tehnologii
232
industria textila
2013, vol. 64, nr. 4
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ANIVERSARE
PROF. ING. ARISTIDE DODU LA 90 DE ANI DE VIAȚĂ ȘI 65 DE ANI DE ACTIVITATE
Domnul prof. ing. cercetător științific gradul I Aristide Dodu s-a născut la 9 iunie 1923, în satul
Dădăeşti, comuna Vultureni din judeţul Bacău, într-o familie modestă de învăţători.
Excelenta sa devenire personală s-a bazat pe aptitudinile deosebite manifestate încă din fragedă
copilărie, dar și pe inițiativă, creativitate, inovare, perseverență etc.
Având o reală înclinaţie spre inginerie, cu toate că mediul socio-economic în perioada de după
cel de-al II-lea razboi mondial era nefavorabil, a reușit să urmeze cu succes cursurile Facultăţii
de Textile la Institutul Politehnic din Bucureşti, Secţia Mecanică Textilă, obţinând diploma de
inginer. În paralel cu studiile efectuate la Politehnica Bucureşti, a urmat cursurile Academiei de Arte
Frumoase (1944–1949) şi ale Seminarului Pedagogic Universitar (1947–1949), din Bucureşti.
Prestigioasa și îndelungata activitate profesională a prof. ing. Aristide Dodu a început ca inginer
la S.C. Apollo S.A. – București, unde – în perioada 1949–1954 – a ocupat funcțiile de șef de
serviciu și șef de secție. Prof. ing. Dodu Aristide este unul dintre fondatorii cercetării textile din România, activând în
calitate de inginer, cercetător ştiinţific principal, şef de laborator şi specialist consultant la Institutul de Cercetări Textile –
Bucureşti, încă din primii ani de funcționare a acestei unități și până în anul 1989. Activitatea științifică s-a corelat cu cea
educațională, lucrând ca profesor la Grupul Școlar MIU și ca profesor asociat pentru cursurile postuniversitare sau de
perfecţionare a inginerilor textilişti, la Institutul Politehnic Bucureşti şi la cel din Iaşi, profesor asociat la Facultatea de
Design-Modă şi Creaţie Vestimentară din cadrul Universităţii EUROPA-ECOR, din Bucureşti, consultant în domeniul
pregătirii pentru doctorat în cadrul ASE – Bucureşti, Institutului Politehnic din Iaşi şi din Bucureşti şi Academiei Militare
Bucureşti.
Activitatea ştiinţifică a prof. ing. Aristide Dodu s-a materializat în participarea la realizarea obiectivelor a peste 250 de
proiecte de cercetare ştiinţifică și elaborarea de studii tehnico-economice pentru domeniul textil, finalizate cu tehnologii și
produse noi, cu un grad ridicat de performanță tehnică și aplicabilitate industrială. Specializarea multidisciplinară a condus
la inițierea și organizarea, pentru prima dată în România, a unei secții de cercetare și producţie a articolelor medicale
textile implantabile la om: proteze vasculare, valve bio logice pentru inimă, proteze de sinus frontal şi arcade, înlocuitor de
meninge, colomelă auditivă, proteze rino plas tice, aţă chirurgicală pentru implantări pe termen lung, petice de plastii,
ligamente pentru genunchi etc. și la proiectarea și realizarea primei mașini rectilinii de tricotat cu comenzi electronice
pentru realizarea de tricoturi complet conturate și cu structuri jacard, cu rapoarte de desen nelimitate. Gradul ridicat de
inovare al rezultatelor proiectelor de cercetare s-a reflectat atât prin obținerea a peste 35 de Brevete de Invenţii și
Certificate de Inovator, cât și prin participarea, în calitate de autor și coautor, la referate susținute la peste 500 de
conferințe și publicații, din care 60 de cărți, manuale, tratate și broșuri: Manualul Inginerului Textilist (ediţiile I şi a II-a) –
care a primit Premiul AGIR în anul 2004, Dicţionarul Explicativ Poliglot pentru Ştiinţă şi Tehnologie – elaborat sub auspiciile
Academiei de Științe Tehnice din România, care a primit Premiul AGIR în anul 2006, Lexiconul Tehnic Român, Tehnologia
tricotajelor (vol. I şi II) etc.
Recunoașterea prestigioasei activități știintifice și didactice a condus la nominalizarea prof. ing. Aristide Dodu ca Membru
de onoare al Academiei Oamenilor de Știință și Decan al Colegiului de Etică Profesională din AGIR, alegerea ca
Preşedinte de onoare al IFKT – România şi Preşedinte de Onoare al Societăţii Inginerilor Textilişti din România, membru
al Comisiei de Terminologie pentru Ştiinţe Exacte a Academiei Române, membru al Colegiului de redacţie al publicaţiei
„Univers Ingineresc“ şi al revistei „Industria Textilă“, cotată ISI, membru al New York Academy of Sciences, în anul 1999 etc.
Personalitatea remarcabilă a prof. ing. Aristide Dodu, evidențiată prin modestie, abilități de comunicare, capacitate
deosebită de sinteză și tenacitate în atingerea obiectivelor propuse au atras atenția unităților de cercetare și învățământ
superior, asociațiilor profesionale din țară și străinătate, care i-au acordat peste 50 de premii, diplome și medalii, printre
care și Ordinul Național pentru Merit în grad de Cavaler.
Cu ocazia împlinirii a 90 de ani de viață și 65 de ani de activitate profesională, colegii și colaboratorii din Institutul Național
de Cercetare-Dezvoltare pentru Textile și Pielărie și membrii SIT–AGIR urează domnului prof. ing. Aristide Dodu un
călduros „LA MULȚI ANI“.
Dr. ing. Emilia Visileanu
Editor șef al revistei Industria Textilă
