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More than Food? Promoting the Countryside to Tourists using Local Food Productions in Italy

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Abstract

This paper aims to explore, through a case-study approach, combining content analysis of written promotional materials and a survey directed to rural tourism entrepreneurs, how local food productions are presented and offered to tourists in Campania and Tuscany. It is argued that rural tourism entrepreneurs, namely the ones directly connected with accommodation supply could play a paramount role in using and diffusing particular features of rurality through the mobilization of specific symbols and material elements, which in the tourists’ imaginary correspond to the ‘typical’ countryside. Despite the central position of local food productions in the overall tourism offer and in promoting rural areas as unique destinations, evidence suggests that its character and its connection to local territories are seldom putted in evidence. Keywords: connections between food products and tourism, local food productions, promotional materials, rural tourism.

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... Food is considered as a relevant part of territories' cultural heritage and identity, reflecting both material and immaterial aspects, such as the biophysical conditions, main agricultural productions, activities, traditions and knowledge (Bèssiere, 1998;Fonte, 2008;Montanari & Staniscia, 2009;Sims, 2009;Hong & Tsai, 2012). In this sense, food is more than just food as it places people (producers, distributors, and consumers) in a particular cultural order and social universe (Bèssiere, 1998;Figueiredo, 2013b). Therefore, food may be considered an important patrimony of a given community, region or country. ...
... As pointed in the previous section, food may be considered more than just food (Bèssiere, 1998;Figueiredo, 2013b) given its role in placing a vast set of people (consumers, producers, distributors, retailers) in particular biophysical and social universes, from which food products acquire their specific character whereas expressing the savoir-faire and the cultural values and practices towards foodstuffs. As put forth by Bèssiere (1998), agricultural products and the ways they are transformed, prepared and presented are part of the culture and traditions of a community and closely linked to the territory. ...
... Although the emphasis is on the products' promotion, i.e., on food itself, stores also highlight the more than food character of these products, linking them with specific territories and immaterial characteristics hence stressing their cultural and identity dimensions which emphasizes the role of food as heritage and patrimony (in line with what has been discussed in the second section). This promotion of foodstuffs also relies on the highlighting of food as an identity marker and a factor of regional and national distinction, following what is referred, among other authors, by Flores (1995); Bèssiere (1998Bèssiere ( , 2013; Fonte (2008); Sims (2009);Figueiredo (2013b) and Figueiredo and Brochot (2017 Figure 5. Tag cloud of the 50 more frequently referred words in the whole content of the Lisbon specialty food stores' websites In this respect, it is worthwhile noting the differences amongst the various types of stores considered, regarding the whole content of their websites ( Figure 8). As we may observe, the Department Store considered in the analysis, besides red and white wine, cheese, sweets, chocolate and biscuits, seem to emphasise the gourmet character of the products sold. ...
Chapter
The aim of this chapter is to reflect on rural provenance food as cultural heritage, discussing at the same time its contribution to promoting rural development and renewed rural-urban connections in Portugal. This chapter takes a selection of urban retailers (the so-called gourmet or specialized stores) located in Lisbon, Portugal, as the starting point of the discussion. In fact, in commercializing rural food products—generally perceived as higher quality and presenting unique characteristics—urban retailers are selling a piece of the countryside, a piece of specific terroirs, a piece of cultural identity, and a particular vision of the world and savoir-faire. Based on the content analysis of the stores' promotional materials, it is possible to conclude that a growing gourmetization and heritagization in the commercialization of rural provenance food products is taking place in urban contexts. The promotion of foodstuffs held by the stores also relies on the claim that provenance matters, whether that provenance is portrayed as local, regional, or national.
...  Comida e gastronomia são elementos proeminentes da configuração da cultura e identidade de um território (Figueiredo, 2013), assim como da ligação dos indivíduos a determinados locais (Truninger, 2014). Os produtos alimentares locais emergem como um elemento chave da experiência turística, sendo apontados como um possível fator de desenvolvimento de territórios periféricos e cada vez mais sendo usados enquanto ferramentas de comunicação e de criação de imagens de marca (de Salvo et al. 2013). ...
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Nas três últimas décadas algumas transformações dos sistemas agroalimentares, como o crescimento do poder dos grandes retalhistas sobre os sistemas de produção e distribuição alimentar e a diminuição dos retornos das inovações tecnológicas, têm pressionado os pequenos produtores e retalhistas e colocado em causa a sustentabilidade das suas atividades. Mais recentemente, mudanças nas representações e práticas dos consumidores acerca da qualidade alimentar têm vindo a criar oportunidades em alguns segmentos do negócio agroalimentar, já não através de uma competição baseada no preço e na quantidade mas antes por uma revalorização da qualidade e da diferenciação dos produtos. Estas últimas podem identificar-se a nível das práticas agrícolas e de transformação de alimentos, por exemplo na revalorização de práticas artesanais ou ambientalmente sustentáveis, mas também a nível de inovações nas próprias cadeias de distribuição, através de circuitos curtos de distribuição e valorização do pequeno retalho alimentar especializado. Dada a origem predominantemente urbana dos consumidores e a crescente importância do comércio de proximidade nas compras do dia-a-dia é importante compreender as oportunidades que as lojas alimentares especializadas podem proporcionar na promoção e valorização de produtos de origem rural, assim como o tipo de ligações que podem criar ou reativar entre stakeholders (retalhistas, distribuidores, produtores e consumidores) e entre o rural e o urbano. Neste sentido, é importante conhecer as principais características deste comércio especializado, sobretudo num contexto – como é o caso de Portugal – em que se caracteriza pela escassez e pouca atualidade da informação sobre este tipo de estabelecimentos comerciais. Esta comunicação visa apresentar os procedimentos e resultados preliminares de um levantamento e tipificação dos estabelecimentos que vendem produtos agroalimentares portugueses de origem rural, localizados em contexto urbano (Aveiro, Lisboa e Porto). Considerando alguns critérios relevantes para investigação e cruzando várias fontes, constituiu-se uma base de dados provisória que serviu de suporte a um inquérito por questionário em lojas nos municípios daquelas cidades. Procurando apresentar as principais conclusões da análise à informação recolhida, a comunicação procura contribuir para a discussão do papel que estas lojas podem ter na promoção e valorização do interior rural.
... Within this rural tourism experience context, local food assumes a sometimes outstanding role (Sidali, Kastenholz & Bianchi, 2013), being also frequently, eventually excessively, used as an attractive icon of the rural in the respective promotional material (Figueiredo, 2013). Local food is frequently linked to the ideal of safer and healthier food consumption, while also associated to authenticity, local culture and identity, since ingredients are generally perceived as being locally produced and/or transformed in the rural territories where tourists spend their holidays, as being produced by small farmers and not the large-scale agro-industry and by using traditional processes. ...
... Within this rural tourism experience context, local food assumes a sometimes outstanding role (Sidali, Kastenholz & Bianchi, 2013), being also frequently, eventually excessively, used as an attractive icon of the rural in the respective promotional material (Figueiredo, 2013). Local food is frequently linked to the ideal of safer and healthier food consumption, while also associated to authenticity, local culture and identity, since ingredients are generally perceived as being locally produced and/or transformed in the rural territories where tourists spend their holidays, as being produced by small farmers and not the large-scale agro-industry and by using traditional processes. ...
... population decrease, ageing, economic decline). Not only to preserve the patrimonial and cultural value of local foods, that are vehicles of rural memories and identities (see Béssiere, 1998;Brunori, 2007;Figueiredo, 2013 andFonte, 2008) but also because there is a considerable potential for this family relations between rural and urban areas to establish local food systems where social embeddedness has a important role to play (Hinrichs, 2000;Murdoch, Marsden and Banks, 2000). And, finally, at the same time, establishing patterns of consumption behaviour with different origin labelled products based on the acceptance and the feeling of 'being protecting' the 'local', 'quality' and 'endogenous' food systems (Van der Ploeg, 1997). ...
... Como já referido, particularmente nas áreas rurais mais remotas, as práticas orientadas para o consumo do rural têm ganho bastante expressão, principalmente por parte das populações urbanas que, frequentemente, possuem uma visão idílica destas áreas e dos seus atributos e qualidades . Alguns aspetos da ruralidade assumem particular relevo nesta visão, como por exemplo a representação ou idealização dos modos de vida rurais, a perceção da maior qualidade ambiental, a conservação das paisagens tradicionais, as genuínas características arquitetónicas e a autenticidade dos produtos agroalimentares (Bell, 2006;Crouch, 2006;Figueiredo, 2009;Figueiredo, 2013b;Figueiredo et al., 2013;Halfacree, 2007). ...
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Building Sustainable Rural Futures -The added value of systems approaches in times of change and uncertainty
  • C Vieira
  • E Figueiredo
Vieira C. and Figueiredo E. 2010. Fruitful Liaisons -articulation between regional food productions and tourism activities. In: I. Darnhofer and M. Grötzer (Eds) Building Sustainable Rural Futures -The added value of systems approaches in times of change and uncertainty -Proceedings of the 9th European IFSA Symposium, (pp. 1647-1660). Vienna: Universität für Bodenkultur.