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Evaluation Of Standards Of Some Selected Shampoo Preparation

September 2013
World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences 2(5):3622-3630

Authors:

Dhananjay B Meshram

Pioneer Pharmacy College, Vadodara

Krunali Thakkar

Pioneer Pharmacy Degree College Vadodara

Patel Dhara

Pioneer Pharmacy Degree College, vadodara

Hairs are the integral part of human beauty. Shampoos are primarily been products aimed at cleansing the hair and scalp. People are using herbs for cleaning, beautifying and managing hair since the ancient era. Shampoo is a hair care product used for the removal of oils, dirt, skin particles, dandruff, environmental pollutants and other contaminant particles that gradually build up in hair. The goal is to remove the unwanted build-up without stripping out so much sebum as to make hair unmanageable. Five different formulations of various brands are evaluated. Various parameters like physical parameters, Foaming studies, cleaning action, wetting time etc are evaluated.

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Krunali et al. World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences

EVALUATION OF STANDARDS OF SOME SELECTED

SHAMPPOO PREPARATION

Thakkar Krunali1*, Patel Dhara1, D.B Meshram1, Patel Mitesh2

1Department of Quality Assurance, Pioneer Pharmacy Degree College, Vadodara-390019,

Gujarat, India

2Department of Pharmaceutics, Pharmacy Degree College, Vadodara-390019, Gujarat, India.

ABSTRACT

Hairs are the integral part of human beauty. Shampoos are primarily

been products aimed at cleansing the hair and scalp. People are using

herbs for cleaning, beautifying and managing hair since the ancient era.

Shampoo is a hair care product used for the removal of oils, dirt, skin

particles, dandruff, environmental pollutants and other contaminant

particles that gradually build up in hair. The goal is to remove the

unwanted build-up without stripping out so much sebum as to make

hair unmanageable. Five different formulations of various brands are

evaluated. Various parameters like physical parameters, Foaming

studies, cleaning action, wetting time etc are evaluated.

KEYWORDS: Formulations, Evaluation, Shampoos.

INTRODUCTION [1-8]

Cosmetics are defined as "articles with mild action on the human body, which are intended to

be applied to the human body through rubbing, sprinkling or other methods, aiming to clean,

beautify and increase the attractiveness, alter the appearance or to keep the skin or hair in

good condition hence a modern face powder is a blend of several constituents.[1-2] Cosmetics

are products that are created for application on the body for the purpose of cleansing,

beautifying or altering appearance and enhancing attractive features. Cosmetics are

substances used to enhance the appearance or odour of the human body. [3]

-3

2278 – 4357

Article Received on

05 August 2013,

Revised on 25 August 2013,

Accepted on 28 September

2013

*Correspondence for

Author:

* Thakkar Krunali .M.

Pioneer Pharmacy Degree

College Vadodara-19

Gujarat, India

krunali_1708@yahoo.com,

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Krunali et al. World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences

Depending on the composition, a vehicle is used to exert mainly ﬁve types of effects on the

skin cleansing, decoration, care, hydration and protection. Delivering active substance to the

targeted site requires the right concentration of actives in the formulation to achieve the

optimal release rate and desired distribution of active substances between the vehicle and

target site. A cosmetic care product has to be developed and whenever this is the case,

various issues and aspects have to be considered such as site and area of application, sensory

and optical properties, state of matter, actives and ﬁnal product storage stability and

packaging. [4]

The evaluation of cosmetics is very important to know their performance, quality and

effectiveness. It is also necessary to check whether the products have any sensitivity toxic

effects on human body. The work was done keeping the ideas of Bureau of Indian Standards

to analyze the cosmetic products. So if the marketed product does not maintain the standards

formed by the Bureau of Indian Standards various side effects like skin irritation, eye

inflammation, hair falling, protein precipitation and heavy metal poisoning may occur. [5-6]

A shampoo is a preparation of a surfactant (i.e. surface active material) in a suitable form –

liquid, solid or powder – which when used under the specified conditions will remove surface

grease, dirt, and skin debris from the hair shaft and scalp without adversely affecting the user.

[7]

Evaluation of shampoos comprises the quality control tests including visual assessment and

physiochemical controls such as pH, density and viscosity. Sodium lauryl sulfate

based detergents are the most common but the concentration will vary considerably from

brand to brand and even within a manufacturer's product range. Cheap shampoos may

contain a high detergent concentration while expensive shampoos may contain very little of a

cheap detergent. [8]

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Shampoos (various different brand shampoos were were procured from local market)

To evaluate the formulations, quality control tests including visual assessment and

physicochemical controls such as pH, density etc were performed. Also, to assure the quality

of products, specific tests for shampoo formulations including the determination of dry

residue and wetting property, total surfactant activity, surface tension, and detergency tests

were carried out.

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Krunali et al. World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences

EVALUATION OF SHAMPOO

1. PHYSICAL APPEARANCE/VISUAL INSPECTION [9]

The formulations were evaluated in terms of their clarity, color, odor and texture.

2. DETERMINATION OF PH [10]

PH of your 10% shampoo solution. Dip one strip of pH paper in the solution and compare the

color of the strip to key. pH meter can also be used after calibration.

Most shampoos are neutral or slightly acidic. Acidic solutions cause the cuticle (outer

layer) of the hair to shrink and lay flatter on the shaft of the hair. Basic solutions cause the

cuticle to swell and open up. Acidic solutions make the hair seem smoother. Basic solutions

make hair seem frizzier.

Neutral pH = 7 Acidic pH < 7 Basic pH >7

3. DIRT DISPERSION [11]

Two drops of shampoo were added in a large test tube contain 10 ml of distilled water. 1

drop of India ink was added; the test tube was stoppered and shakes it ten times. The amount

of ink in the foam was estimated as None, Light, Moderate, or Heavy.

Shampoos that cause the ink to concentrate in the foam are considered poor quality. The dirt

should vstay in the water portion. Dirt that stays in the foam will be difficult to rinse away. It

will redeposit on the hair.

4. DETERMINATION OF PERCENTAGE SOLID CONTENT [12]

A clean dry evaporating dish was weighed and added 4 grams of shampoo to the evaporating

dish. The dish and shampoo was weighed. The exact weight of the shampoo was calculated

only and put the evaporating dish with shampoo was placed on the hot plate until the liquid

portion was evaporated. The weight of the shampoo only (solids) after drying was calculated.

If a shampoo has too many solids it will be hard to work into the hair or too hard to wash out.

If it doesn’t have enough it will be too watery and wash away quickly. A good shampoo will

be between 20% – 30% solids.

5. SURFACE TENSION MEASUREMENT [13]

Measurements were carried out with a 10% shampoo dilution in distilled water at room

temperature. Thoroughly clean the stalagmometer using chronic acid and purified water.

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Krunali et al. World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences

Because surface tension is highly affected with grease or other lubricants. The data calculated

by following equation given bellow:

R2 = (w3-w2) n1 R2

(W2-w2)n2

where W1 is weight of empty beaker.

W2 is weight of beaker with distilled water.

W3 is Weight of beaker with shampoo solution.

n1 is no. of drops of distilled water.

n2 is no. of drops of shampoo solution.

R1 is surface tension of distilled water at room

temperature.

R2 is surface tension of shampoo solution

6. CLEANING ACTION[14]

5 grams of wool yarn were placed in grease, after that it was placed in 200 ml. of water

containing 1 gram of shampoo in a flask. Temperature of water was maintained at 350C. The

flask was shaked for 4 minutes at the rate of 50 times a minute.

The solution was removed and sample was taken out, dried and weighed. The amount of

grease removed was calculated by using the following equation:

DP = 100 (1-T/C)

In which, DP is the percentage of detergency power, C is the weight of sebum in the control

sample and T is the weight of sebum in the test sample.

7. WETTING TIME [15]

The canvas was cut into 1 inch diameter discs having an average weight of 0.44 g. The disc

was floated on the surface of shampoo solution of 1% w/v and the stopwatch started. The

time required for the disc to begin to sink was measured acutely and noted as the wetting

time.

8. FOAMING ABILITY AND FOAM STABILITY [16]

Cylinder shakemethod was most widely used for determining foaming ability. 50

ml of the 1% shampoo solution was put into a 250 ml graduated cylinder and covered the

cylinder with hand and shaken for 10 times. The total volumes of the foam contents after 1

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Krunali et al. World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences

minute shaking were recorded. The foam volume was calculated only. Immediately after

shaking the volume of foam at 1 minute intervals for 4 minutes were recorded

RESULT AND DISCUSSION

Table 1: Evaluation of Formulation for physical appearance, pH

Sr.No Formulation Physical Appearance PH

1 F1 White, Shiny 5.53 + 0.03

2 F2 Black, Shiny 5.61 + 0.02

3 F3 Sky-blue, opaque 5.51 + 0.07

4 F4 Complete transparent 5.89 + 0.01

5 F5 White, Opaque 5.91 + 0.03

Table 2: Evaluation of Formulation for Surface tension and % solid contents

Sr. No Formulation Surface

Tension

% solid

contents

1 F1 32.43 + 0.031 17.75 + 0.02

2 F2 31.33 + 0.04 20.75 + 0.02

3 F3 32.12 + 0.12 22.25 + 0.02

4 F4 33.18 + 0.62 17.25 + 0.02

5 F5 32.66 + 0.34 24.00 + 0.02

Table 3: Evaluation of Formulation for wetting time, cleaning, and Detergency

Sr. No Formulation Wetting time

(sec) % cleaning % detergency

1 F1 176 + 0.03 23.22 + 0.60 60.09 + 0.08

2 F2 179 + 0.77 21.67 + 0.56 61.98 + 0.98

3 F3 185 + 0.23 29.08 + 0.31 61.90 + 0.62

4 F4 172 + 0.34 21.35 + 0.08 64.56 + 0.12

5 F5 186 + 0.12 26.78 + 0.87 62.45 + 0.65

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Krunali et al. World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences

Table 4: Foam stability of shampoos

Time

(mins)

Foam volume

F1 F2 F3 F4 F5

1 55 56 52 56 51

2 52 54 50 53 49

3 49 50 47 50 45

4 44 47 44 44 42

5 41 43 42 41 40

Foam volume

0123456

Volume

Time

Fig 1: Foam retention profiles of shampoos

EVALUATION OF SHAMPOO

1. PHYSICAL TEST

The results of visual inspection of series of formulations are listed in table 1. As can be

seen, all formulations had the good characteristics with respect to foaming.

2. PH

The pH of shampoos are found to important for improving and enhancing the qualities of

hair, minimizing irritation to the eyes and stabilizing the ecological balance of the scalp. Mild

acidity prevents swelling and promotes tightening of the scales, there by inducing shine. Thus

the current trend is to promote shampoos of lower pH is one of the ways to minimize damage

to the hair. All the three shampoo powders were acid balanced and were ranged 5.5 to 5.9,

which is near to the skin pH.

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Krunali et al. World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences

3. DIRT DISPERSION

Shampoo that cause the ink to concentrate in the foam is considered poor quality, the dirt

should stay in water. Dirt that stays in the foam will be difficult to rinse away. It will

redeposit on the hair. All five shampoos showed similar results. These results indicate that no

dirt retained in the foam; so prepared and marketed formulations are satisfactory.

4. SOLID CONTENTS

If the shampoo has too many solids it will be hard to work into the hair or too hard to wash

out. The result of percent of solids contents is tabulated in table 2.

5. SURFACE TENSION

It has been mentioned that a proper shampoo should be able to decrease the surface tension of

pure water to about 40 dynes/cm [17] . Surface tension reduction is one of the

mechanisms implicated in detergency. The results are shown in Table 2.

6. CLEANING ACTION

Cleaning action was tested on wool yarn in grease. Although cleaning or soil/sebum

removal is the primary aim of a shampoo, experimental detergency evaluation has been

difficult to standardize, as there is no real agreement on a standard soil, a reproducible

soiling process or the amount of soil a shampoo should ideally remove. The results are

presented in table 3.

7. WETTING TIME

Wetting time of a substance is a function of its concentration. Drave’s test is the official test

but generally canvas disc method is used as it is easy and time saving. Comparision

results are shown in table 3.

8. FOAMING ABILITY AND FOAM STABILITY

Although foam generation has little to do with the cleansing ability of shampoos, it is of

paramount importance to the consumer and is therefore an important criterion in evaluating

shampoos. All the five shampoos showed similar foaming characteristics in distilled water.

The foam retention ability of five samples is given in figure 1. All five shampoos showed

comparable foaming properties. The foam stability of herbal shampoos is listed in table 4

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1. Minamoto K. Skin sensitizers in cosmetics and skin care products. Nippon Eiseigaku

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3. Dureja H, Kaushik D, Gupta M, Kumar K, Lather V. Cosmeceuticals: An Emerging

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4. Patravale VB, Mandawgade SD. Novel Cosmetic Delivery Systems: An Application

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5. De Groot AC, Bruynzeel DP, Bos JD, Van der Meeran HL, Van Joost T, Jagtman BA,

Weyland JW. The allergens in cosmetics. Arch Dermatol. 124; 1525-1529 (1998).

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10. Sharma, P.P.: COSMETICS  Formulation, Manufacturing and Quality Control, 4th

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Sustainable Use of Extracts of Some Plants Growing in Ethiopia for the Formulation of Herbal Shampoo and Its Antimicrobial Evaluation

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Development of EPS rich herbal shampoo base fermented using Cyclea peltata leaf powder and Lactobacillus plantarum

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Evaluation of prepared herbal shampoo formulations and to compare formulated shampoo with marketed shampoos

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Full-text available

Jan 2011

Shampooing is the most common form of hair treatment. Shampoos are primarily been products aimed at cleansing the hair and scalp. In the present scenario, it seems improbable that herbal shampoo, although better in performance and safer than the synthetic ones, will be popular with the consumers. A more radical approach in popularizing herbal shampoo would be to change the consumer expectations from a shampoo, with emphasis on safety and efficacy. We have evaluated and compared the herbal shampoo, which was formulated in previous study, with two marketed shampoos. The findings of this investigation reveal that synthetic preservatives have sometimes been the cause of adverse effects among consumers. We have used the physico-chemical approach to preservation and by formulating a self preserving shampoo, have avoided this risk posed by chemical preservatives. However, the aesthetic attributes, such as lather and clarity, of the laboratory shampoo are not comparable with the marketed shampoos. The foam volume was on a par. Although the retail products were not fare so well in the tests conducted by us, they enjoy market popularity, especially if they foam well. This is mainly due to the false notion among consumers that'a shampoo that foams well, works well', and no real effort on the part of manufacturers to counter this fallacy.

Analysis of Cosmetic Products

Book

Full-text available

Jan 2007

Analysis of Cosmetic Products advises the reader from an analytical chemistry perspective on the choice of suitable analytical methods for production monitoring and quality control of cosmetic products. In the format of an easy-to-understand compendium of published literature on the subject, this book will enable people working in the cosmetic industry or in research laboratories to: * become familiar with the main legislative and analytical literature on this subject and * learn about and choose suitable analytical procedures for production monitoring and control of cosmetic products, according to their composition. The first section of Analysis of Cosmetic Products covers various definitions and concepts relating to cosmetic products, current legislation in different countries and specific legislation on ingredients. The central body of the book addresses analytical methods for monitoring and quality control of cosmetic products with the fundamental objective being to enable reader's access to scientific reviews carried out by experts in analytical chemistry. The final section contains a small review of the alternative methods to using animals for cosmetic product evaluation. * An essential resource for those in the cosmetic industry and research laboratories, allowing you to become familiar with the main analytical literature * Up-to-date and exhaustive overviews of current knowledge dealing with cosmetic analysis, general concepts and legislation * Including tables and figures, designed to graphically communicate important information in an easy-to-understand format.

Cosmeceuticals: An emerging concept

Article

Full-text available

Jun 2005
INDIAN J PHARMACOL

The use of cosmeceuticals has drastically risen in recent years. This significantly increases the armamentarium of the clinician in improving the treatment of skin, hair, and other conditions. They are at the juncture where wellness meets beauty and growing use by consumers is indicative of their popularity. This article focuses on skin, hair, and other cosmeceuticals and their regulatory aspects.

Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology

Book

Jan 2009

Edited by a team of experienced and internationally renowned contributors, the updated Third Edition is the standard reference for cosmetic chemists and dermatologists seeking the latest innovations and technology for the formulation, design, testing, use, and production of cosmetic products for skin, hair, and nails. New features in the Third Edition: 39 new chapters reorganized by skin functions descriptions of ingredients, products, efficacy measurement, and mechanisms in each chapter revised chapters on skin types, skin perception, and targeted products new chapters on skin aging and cosmetics for the elderly strong emphasis on testing and current methods used for testing, and the evolution of instruments for skin and hair testing new ingredients, delivery systems, and testing methodologies information on skin physiology and cosmetic product design interactions affecting and attributed to cosmetic products cosmetic ingredients, vehicles, and finished products difference between pure cosmetics for enhancement and cosmetics used to treat high quality standards in cosmetic products that improve appearance, protect their targets, and maintain natural functions.

Evaluation of prepared shampoo formulations and to compare formulated shampoo with marketed shampoos

Article

Jul 2010

Shampooing is the most common form of hair treatment. Shampoos are primarily been products aimed at cleansing the hair and scalp. In the present scenario, it seems improbable that herbal shampoo, although better in performance and safer than the synthetic ones, will be popular with the consumers. A more radical approach in popularizing herbal shampoo would be to change the consumer expectations from a shampoo, with emphasis on safety and efficacy. We have evaluated and compared the herbal shampoo, which was formulated in previous study, with two marketed shampoos. The findings of this investigation reveal that synthetic preservatives have sometimes been the cause of adverse effects among consumers. We have used the physico-chemical approach to preservation and by formulating a self preserving shampoo, have avoided this risk posed by chemical preservatives. However, the aesthetic attributes, such as lather and clarity, of the laboratory shampoo are not comparable with the marketed shampoos. The foam volume was on a par. Although the retail products were not fare so well in the tests conducted by us, they enjoy market popularity, especially if they foam well. This is mainly due to the false notion among consumers that 'a shampoo that foams well, works well', and no real effort on the part of manufacturers to counter this fallacy.

Skin Sensitizers in Cosmetics and Skin Care Products

Article

Feb 2010

Keiko Minamoto

Cosmetics are defined as "articles with mild action on the human body, which are intended to be applied to the human body through rubbing, sprinkling or other methods, aiming to clean, beautify and increase the attractiveness, alter the appearance or to keep the skin or hair in good condition (The Pharmaceutical Affairs Law: Article 2)." Consequently, they include personal hygiene products such as shampoos, soaps and toothpaste. In Europe, 1% of the population is estimated to be allergic to fragrances and 2-3% to ingredients of cosmetics; 10% of outpatients patch-tested for cosmetics allergy were found to be positive. Allergenic ingredients of cosmetics can be fragrances, hair dye, preservatives, antioxidants, emollients, surfactants, UV absorbers, pigments or resins used in nail cosmetics. Among standard allergen series, eight substances are related to cosmetics; in Japan in 2003, p-phenylenediamine (hair dyes) induced allergic reactions with the highest rate of 7.9% in outpatients patch-tested (n=805), followed by fragrance mix No. 1 (4.0%, mixture of eight fragrances frequently used), colophony (3.2%, main contents of pine resin), lanolin alcohol (2.7%,emollients), and formaldehyde, parabens, Kathon CG (2.7% ,1.9% and 1.0%, respectively; preservatives). Cosmetic allergy symptoms tend to be mild except those caused by hair dye. However, the population exposed to cosmetics is huge and the number of ingredients used in cosmetics increased up to more than 6000. Here, major cosmetic ingredient allergens, mainly reported in Japan, are reviewed and discussed.

Active Agents in Common Skin Care Products

Article

Feb 2010

Zoe Diana Draelos

Skin care products are numerous and perplexing, yet the majority fall into the moisturizer category. Moisturizers are substances designed to improve and maintain the skin barrier. They serve as a vehicle for the delivery of active ingredients that minimize facial lines of dehydration, deliver photoprotection, and provide antioxidant properties. Moisturizers are based on occlusive substances, such as petrolatum and dimethicone, and humectant substances, such as glycerin, with a variety of sunscreens and botanicals for added functionality and marketing impact. This article reviews these common active agents. The plethora of over-the-counter skin care products available for patient purchase is overwhelming, yet there is certain commonality among 80 percent of the formulations. The majority of the products are moisturizers with added ingredients to support marketing claims. Whether the product is a facial foundation, an antiaging night cream, a sunscreen, a topical antioxidant, or a skin-lightening serum, the formulation is basically a moisturizer. Sunscreen is the most biologically active antiaging ingredient in skin care products, but the antiinflammatory and antioxidant effects of botanicals possess tremendous marketing appeal.

The allergens in cosmetics

Article

Nov 1988
ARCH DERMATOL

The ingredients responsible for allergy to cosmetics were determined in 119 patients suffering from cosmetic-related contact dermatitis. Most reactions (56.3%) were caused by skin care products, followed by nail cosmetics (13.4%), perfumes (8.4%), and hair cosmetics (5.9%). Preservatives were most frequently implicated (32.0%), followed by fragrances (26.5%) and emulsifiers (14.3%). By far the most important cosmetic allergen was Kathon CG, (a preservative system containing, as active ingredients, a mixture of methylisothiazolinone and methyl chloroisothiazolinone) reacting in 33 patients (27.7%). Other frequent causes of cosmetic-related contact allergic reactions were toluenesulfonamide/formaldehyde resin in nail hardener and/or nail lacquer (15 patients [12.6%]), and oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, an emulsifier in baby body lotion (13 patients [10.9%]).

Novel cosmetic delivery systems: An application update

Article

Mar 2008

World consumers are nowadays more focused on their health and appearance. This trend is creating heightened demand for products formulated with natural and nutraceutical ingredients. Functional ingredients and innovative delivery systems are driving the new product development in the field of cosmetics. A significant number of innovative formulations are now being used in personal care with real consumer-perceivable benefits and optimized sensory attributes, resulting in an economic uplift of cosmetic industry. In fact, the U.S. market alone for novel cosmetic delivery systems has been projected to be more than $41 billion for the year 2007. Novel cosmetic delivery systems reviewed here possess enormous potential as next-generation smarter carrier systems.

Jan 2008

S M Balsam
S D Gershon
M M Rieger
E Sagarin
S Strianse

Balsam, S.M., Gershon, S.D., Rieger, M.M., Sagarin, E., and Strianse, S.J.: COSMETICS–Science and Technology, 2 nd edition, Vol2, John Wiley India, New Delhi, 2008