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Material
study
The
Use
of
Essential
Oils
and
TZ_Va.nic
s/Te
rpene
rJd
s
i
omt
and.
Perfumery
A
study
identifies
the
major
uses
of
essential
oils
and
terpenics/
terpenoids
through
granted
patents
Adailson
da
Silva-Santosa,
Adelaide
Antunes,
Luiz
D'Avila,
Humberto
Bizzo,
and
Leila
Souza-Santos
hroughout
history,
ancient
civilizations
(such
as
the
Egyptians,
Babylonians,
Hebrews,
Greeks,
Romans
and
Chinese)
used
essential
oils
and
their
terpenics/terpenoids
constituents
as
ointment
or
bathing
for
cosmetics purposes.,
2
This
tradition
survived,
and
today
essential
oils
and
their
terpenics/terpenoids
are
still
the
most important
natural
products
used
by
the
cosmetic
and
perfumery
industries.
3
,4
Today,
technological forecasting
is
extremely
valuable
for
companies
and
gov-
ernments
because
it
allows
them
to foresee
future
situations
and
environments.
5
Cur-
rently,
cosmetic
and
perfumery
companies
are
investing in
bioprospective
research
to
find
new compounds
to
synthesize
new
lead
products.
Patents
are
the
main
mechanism
used
by
companies
to
protect
these
investments.
6
,
7
Due
to
a
particular
interpretation
by
the
patent
systems
and
legislatures,
the
combination
of
essences
and
chemical
products
for
the
elaboration
of
a
fragrance
or
perfume
are
considered
to
be
obvious
-
absent
of
inventive
step
(a
pillar of
the
patent
system).
Thus,
fra-
grances
and
perfumes
are
not
protected
through
patents.
This
work
aims
to
show
the
relevance
of
elaborating
a
database
consisting
of
patents
through
a
study
during
the
period
1980-
2003
about
the
cosmetic
and
perfumery
uses
of
essential
oils
and
terpenies/ter-
'Adailson
da
Silva
Santos
is
updating
his
background
in
the
post-graduate
program
at
the
Escola
de
Quimica/
Universidade
Federal
do
Rio
de
Janeiro
as
D.Sc.
student
under
orientation
of
Adelaide Maria
de
Souza
Antunes
(D.Sc.),
and
Humberto
Ribeiro
Bizzo
(D.Sc.),
researching
the
totality
of
industrial
applications
of
essential
oils
besides
tie
knowledge
rolled
in
utility
patents
documents.
This article belongs
to
this
work.
penoids compounds.
8
,
9
Also,
it
is
possible
to
identify
technological
areas,
owners,
inventors,
varieties
of
essential
oils,
terpenics/terpenoids,
etc.
Methodology
The
database
was
made by
the
keyword
[essential
oil(s),
terpenic(s)
and
terpenoid(s)]
search
mechanism
in
the
fields
of
'claims'
and 'abstracts'
of
the
United
States
Patent
and
Trademarks
Office's
(USPTO)
grant-
ed
patents
documents.
The
technological
knowledge
for
the
use
of
essential
oils
and
terpenics/terpenoids
compounds
in
the
cosmetic
and
perfumery
sectors
is
indexed
by
the
Intemational
Patent
Classification
(IPC)
in
subclass
A61K
(preparations
for
medical,
dental,
or
toilet
purposes),
pertaining
to section A
(human
necessities)
of
IPC,
through
group
A61K
7/00
(cosmetic
or
similar
preparations
for
personal
hygiene).
10
A
methodology
of
analysis
of
the
patent
documents,
combining
bibliographical
information
in
front
page
of
patents
with data
described
in
the
abstract
and
claims
fields,
was also
established.
This
analysis
enabled
the
identification
of
the
following
items:
C
C)
Historical
series
Essential
oils
Terpenics
compounds
Terpenoids
compounds
Nature
and nationality
of
the
owners
of
patents
rights
120
100-
so-
60-
40
20
-T
_
I
H
L
l-I
0.
198
1981
1982
1983
1984
1985
1986
1987
1988
1989
1990
1991
1992
1993
1994 1995
1996
1997
1998
1999
2000
2001
2002
2003
Year
"o
Identification
of
the
main
owners
"*
Application
that
destines
the
invention
Results
and
Discussion
For
the
period
of
1980-2003,
990
patents
were
found
(F-1).
F-2
details
the
distribution
of patents
across
the
eight
most
important
subgroups
from
A61K
7/00:
"*
Make-up
materials
(and
preparations
for remov-
ing
them)
or
body
powders
(A61K
7/02)
"o
Manicure
or
pedicure
compositions
(A61K
7/04)
"*
Preparations
for
care
of
the
hair
or
to
promote
hair
growth
or
to
shaving
(A61K
7/06)
"*
Preparations
for
cleaning
the
teeth
or
mouth
(A61K
7/16)
"*
Antiperspirants
or
body
deodorants
(A61K
7/32)
"*
Barrier
compositions
or
chemical
agents
brought
into
direct
contact
with
the
skin
for affording
protection
against
external
influences
(e.g.
sun-
light,
X-
or
other
active
rays,
corrosive
materials,
bacteria,
insect
stings)
(A61K
7/40)
"*
Perfume
compounds
(A61K
7/46)
"*
Preparations
for
the
care
of
the
skin
(A61K
7/48)
The
study
revealed
that
there
is
a
predominance
of
essential
oils
and
terpenics/terpenoids
compounds
applied
as
active
ingredients
for
the
products
and
processes
patented
in
the
areas
of
the
cosmetics
and
perfumery.
The
application
of
essential
oils
and
terpenics/terpenoids
compounds
in
the
cosmetic
and
perfumery
sectors
are
detailed
in
F-3.
Essential
oils
and
terpenics/terpenoids
com-
pounds:
The
information
identified
in
the
abstract
and
claims
fields
disclosed
that
amongst
essential
oils,
15
showed
up
in
94.71
percent
of
1,034
registered
bib-
liographical
citations,
including:
"o
Citrus
essential
oils
(orange,
lemon,
grapefruit
and
bergamot),
269
citations
"*
Mints
essential
oils
(peppermint
and
spearmint),
253
citations
"*
Essential
oils
used
as
condiments
(sesame,
clove,
nutmeg),
191
citations
"*
Essential
oils
extracted
from
cedar,
pine
and
eucalyptus,
127
citations
"*
Floral
essential
oils
(rose
and
rose-
mary),
76
citations
N
=990
No.
of
patents
-
tv.
.fl
-.
I-,
-
.. .
......
. ...............
O M
a4.'4rSA.AZ
.
.
0
L
It
p
H
II
F
2
D
A
M
I
50
100
150
200
250
No.
of
patents:
N
=
990
A -
to
make-up
or
to
embellish
the
skin
of
the
face;
B -
to
make-up
or to embellish
the
lips;
C -
to
make-up
or
to embellish the
eyes;
D -
to
make-up
or to embellish
the
skin
of
others
body
parts;
E -
manicure
or
pedicure
compositions;
F -
preparations
for
washing
the
hair;
G -
preparations
for
molding
the
hair;
H -
preparations
for
dyeing
the
hair;
I -
shaving
preparations;
J
-
depilatories;
K -
others (preparations
for
care
of
the
hair
or to
promote
hair
growth
etc.);
L -
preparations
for
cleaning
the
teeth
or
mouth;
M -
preparations
for
cleaning
dentures;
N -
antiperspirants
or
body
deodorants;
0
-
topical
sun
or
radiation
screening
or
tanning
preparations;
P -
barrier
compositions;
chemical
agents
brought
into
direct
contact
with
the
skin for
af-
fording
protection
against
microorganisms
or
insect
stings;
Q -
perfume
compounds;
R -
preparations
for
the care
of
the
skin
Subgroups
from
A611(
7/00
- N
=
1,034
A61K
A61K
A61K
A61K A61K
A61K
A61K
7/02 7/04
7/06
7/16
7/32
7/40
7/46
1.55
0.39
2.42
2.71
0.68 2.22
0.10
0.10
1.55
0.00 0.00
1.55
0.00 0.29
1.26
0.10 0.00
0.19
0.10 0.00
0.00
0.19 0.00
0.00
0.00 0.00
0.58
0.48
0.10
0.97
0.10 0.00
0.00
0.19
0.00 0.39
0.00 0.00
1.06
0.00
0.00
0.87
0.00 0.00
0.29
0.58
4.35
12.67
5.22
0.87
3.58
8.99
6.96
1.64
0.58
1.74
0.77
1.93
0.10
1.26
0.48
0.58
0.00
0.00
0.19
0.87
0.00
0.19
0.10
0.29
0.29
0.19
0.00
0.10
0.00
1.84
0.68
0.19
0.97
0.87
0.29
0.00
0.39
0.48
0.58
0.39
0.39
0.10
0.29
0.10
0.00
0.97
0.29
0.97
0.68
0.68
0.39
0.39
0.48
0.48
0.10
0.39
0.10
0.19
0.10
A61K
%
7/48
2.03 9.28
0.48
12.67
0.39
15.28
0.48
9.19
0.39
4.55
0.39
6.09
0.19
9.67
0.29 8.41
0.29 3.58
0.29 3.77
0.29 2.90
0.29
2.61
0.10
3.29
0.10
1.64
0.00
1.74
94.71
A61K
7/02-
make-up
materials
(and
preparations
for
removing
them)
or
body
powders;
A61K
7/04
-
manicure or
pedicure
compositions;
A61K
7/06
-
preparations
for
care
of
the
hair
orto
promote
hair
growth
orto
shaving;
A61K
7/16-
preparations
for
cleaning
the
teeth
or
mouth;
A61K
7/32
-
anti-perspirants
or
body
deodorants;
A61K
7/40
-
barrier compositions
or
chemical
agents
brought
into
direct
contact
with
the
skin
for affording
protection
against
external
influences
(e.g.
sunlight,
X-
or
other
active
rays,
corrosive
materials, bacteria,
insect
stings);
A61(
7/46
-
perfume
compounds; and
ABIK
7/48
-
preparations
for
the care
of
the
skin
IJIi.lIlil. ..IJ.JI .llIl.l.l.l.lIl.lIl.l.J.l
I .
.l.lll
.llll
I .I I .I ..ll
ll
l . l
ll
ll ll
l .I.I,II I I I.... a....I
.l Il lIl... III.. .... ....il I I . [
IIIIIIIIIIfIIl|l
llll lll
III If
ID
M
013
ED
Essential
oils
sesame
orange
peppermint
lemon
pine
eucalyptus
spearmint
clove
rosemary
rose
grapefruit
bergamot
sassafras
cedar
nutmeg
|11111|I|II|II|I|1|1|1111|1|1111111i|11|IIIIIIII|I11111|1|I|II|I
Terpenes
and
terpenoids
compounds
Subgroups
from
A61K-
N=1,069
A61K
A61K
A61K
A61K
A61K
A61K
A61K
A61K
%
7/02
7/04
7/05
7/16
7/32
7/40
7/46
7/48
menthol
0.55
0.00
2.10
14.16
1.64
1.37
1.28
1.19
22.28
squalene
1.64
0.09
1.19
0.09
0.09
1.74
0.09 0.64
5.57
camphor
1.28
2.92
3.11
1.28
0.91
14.43
0.37
1.64
25.94
limonene
0.27
0.27
0.00
2.56
0.27
0.18
0.91
0.27
4.75
pinene
0.09
0.09
0.91
1.28
0.27
0.27
0.27
0.09
3.29
thymol
0.29
0.27
0.46
7.67
0.91
0.27
0.46
0.37
10.41
eucalyptol
0.09
0.00
0.18
6.76
0.73
0.09 0.18
0.09
8.13
retinol
0.18
0.00 0.55
0.00
0.00
1.28
0.00
0.91
2.92
geraniol
0.00
0.00
0.91
0.73
1.10
0.09
1.37
0.00
4.20
linalool
0.00
0.00
0.91
1.64
1.10
0.00
1.46
0.09
5.21
citral
0.00
0.00 0.09
1.19 0.37
0.00 0.37
0.09
2.10
menthane
0.00
0.00 0.09
0.27
0.46
0.37 0.09
0.00
1.28
carvone
0.00
0.00
0.00
1.37
0.18
0.00
0.27
0.00
1.83
97.90
A61K17/02-
make-up
materials
(and
preparations
for
removing
them)
or
body
powders;
A61K
7/04
-manicure
or
pedicure
compositions;
A611K7/06
-
preparations
for
care
of
the
hair
or
to
promote hair
growth
or
to shaving;
A61K
7/16
-
preparations
for
cleaning
the
teeth
or
mouth;
A61K
7/32
-
antiperspirants
or
body
deodorants;
A61K
7/40-
barrier
compositions
or
chemical
agents
brought
into
direct
contact
with
the
skin
for
affording
protection
against
external
influences
(e.g.
sunlight,
X-
or
other
active
rays,
corrosive
materials,
bacteria,
insect
stings);
A61K
7/46-
perfume
compounds;
and
A61K
7/48
-
preparations
for
the
care
of
the
skin
Also
found
in
the
research
was
sassafras
essential
oil
(34
citations), which
is
rich
in
safrol
-
a
non-ter-
penic
phenyl
ether
compound.!
-_--__-____-_..
T-1
shows
the
distribution
of
the
uses
of
these
IIUS..A.R
IVEDI
15
main
essential
oils
found
in
this
search,
amongst
JUST....IVED__
the
eight
main
subgroups
of
the
IPC
listed
in
F-2.
The
last
column
in
T-1
indicates
the percentage
of
participation
of
each
essential
oil
of the
total
of
mmo
h0
q1
0
1,034
joined
citations.
The
last
line
designates
the
joint
participation
of
94.71
percent
for
these
same
essential
oils.
Among
the
terpenics/terpenoids
compounds
(T-
The
Journal
of
Essential
Oil
Research
is
proud
to
present
this
compendium
of
2),
13
accounted
for
97.90
percent
of
1,095
citations,
key
antlmicrobial/biological
activity
like
limonene
(extracted
from
citrus
essential
oils),
studies.
Peer
reviewed
by
experts
in
the
camphor
(extracted
from
camphor
essential
oil),
industry,the
volume
-
International
in
mscope
and
of
a
high
standard
of
technical
menthol
(extracted
from
mints
essential
oils)
and
;4
merit
and
scientific
quality
-
covers
a
pinene
(extracted
from
essential
oils
of the
species
diverse
range
of
topics,
Including:
pine
or
eucalyptus).
*
Mycotoxic
effects
of
Thymus
serpyllum
T-2
shows
the
distribution
for
the
uses
of
these
13
oil
on
the
asexual
reproduction
of
Aspergillus
species
t
The
chemical
composition
and
antifungal
activity
main
terpenics/terpenoids
compounds,
amongst
the
of
the
essential
oil
obtained
from
in
vitro
plants
of
nine
main
subgroups
of the
IPC
listed
F-2.
The
last
Thymus
mastichina
L.
column
in
T-2
indicates
the
percentage
of
appear-
*
Evaluation
of
common
antibacterial
screening
ance'of
each
compound
of
the
total
of
1,095
joined
methods
utilized
in
essential
oil
research
c
*
Composition
and
antimicrobial
activity
of
Ammoides
citations.
The
last
line designates
the
joint
participa-
!
pusilla
(Brot.)
Breistr.
essential
oil
tion
of
97.90
percent
for
these
same
substances.
-
And
many
morel
Patent
owners:
Among
the
owners
of
the
990
Never
before
has
JEOR
gathered
so
much
focused
patents,
148
legal
persons
(companies,
governmen-
-
research
in
one
place.
A
Must-Have!
tal
agencies,
universities
and researches
centers)
accounted
for
94.95
percent
(940
documents),
while
Order
online
@
www.allured.com/bookstore
50
patents
(5.05
percent)
were
individually
owned
:-
-
Countries
NL
CH
JP
,...
: ... ,
.
DE
FIR
J
50
100
150
200
250
300
350 400
No.
of
patents:
N
=
990
CH
-
Switzerland;
DE
-
Germany;
FR
-
France;
JP
-
Japan;
NL-
Netherlands;
US
-
United
States
of
America. 'Others'
means
Ar-
gentine,
Australia,
Austria,
Belgium,
Canada,
China, Colombia,
Cube,
Denmark,
Great
Britain,
Greece,
Hungary,
India,
Ireland,
Israel,
Italy,
Mexico,
Norway,
Paraguay,
Poland, Portugal,
South
Korea,
Singapore,
Spain,
Sweden,
Taiwan
and
Uruguay
CH
-
Switzerland;
DE
-
Germany;
FR
-
France;
JP
-
Japan;
NL
-
Netherlands;
US
-
United
States
of
America
Companies
Others
II
Ur&3ver
(NL)
Fimerh(CH)
Cbs speciaty
Chern.
(UQ
JohnsmUd
~isna
(US)3
Avo
(US)
'1
Hfrfe1
(Mu)
Kaoek*(,P)
FF
(US)
Vftverl.ambedt(US)
W*la
(DE)
Revbn
(US)
cowe
Pahofft
MUS
Procter
a
Oamblo
(US)
0
100
200
300 400
So
s00
No.
of
patents:
N=
990
patents
(lOP).
F-4
shows
the
geoeconomic
distribu-
tion
of
the
owners,
specifying
the
United
States
(36.57
percent),
France
(22.22
percent),
Germany
(6.06
per-
cent)
and
Japan
(5.96
percent).
Among
50
patents
that
belong
to
IOPs,
80
percent
have
a
North
American
inventor
as
owner.
Others
inventors
listed
came
from
Canada,
France,
Germany, Italy,
Japan
and
Spain.
For
the
majority
of
the
companies
listed
in
this
research,
89.86
percent
(or
133
companies)
accounted
for
53.43
percent
(or
592
documents)
of
the
990
pat-
ents,
showing
a
1:3.98
ratio
between
the
total
number
of
companies
and
the
total
number
of
patents.
F-5
shows
the
top
15
companies,
with
an
average
ratio
of
more
than
eight
patents
per
firm.
9.
R.M,Wilson,
WorldPatentlnformation,
9(1),18-26
(1987).
10.
WIPO
-
World
Intellectal
Property
Organization.
International
Patent
Classification.
http://www.
wipo.intlelassifications/en,
2002/2004,
Conclusions
This
study
identified
990
granted
patents
from
the
United
States
Patent
and
Trademarks
Office
related
to
the
use
of
essential
oils
and
terpenics/terpenoids
compounds
in
the
cosmetic
and
perfumery
sectors
during
1980-2003.
The
major
uses
were
in
the
topical
sun,
teeth/mouth
cleaning,
skin
care,
anti-insect
stings,
perfume
compounds
and
hair
dyeing
areas.
Among
the
essential
oils,
three
groups
were
the
most
cited:
citrus,
mints
and
condiments;
among
terpenics/
terpenoids
compounds:
menthol
and
limonene.
Address
correspondence
to
Adailson
da
Silva-Santos, Avenida
28
de
Setembro,
210,
Cobertura-01,
Vila
Isabel,
Rio
de
Janeiro,
Brazil,
CEP:
20551-031;
e-mail:
adailson@inpi.gov.br
or
adsantos2005@
yahoo.com.br.
References
1.
C.
Reinbothe,
B.
Diettrich
and
M.J.
Luckner,
Plant
Physiol.,
137,
224
(1990).
2.
A.A.
Craveiro
and
D.C.
Queiroz,
Quim.
Nova, 16(3),
224-228
(1993).
3.
A.
Silva-Santos,
Perfum.
Flay.,
29(3),
38-43
(2004).
4.
D.
Joulain,
Perfum.
Flay.,
18(5),
3
(1993).
5.
D.ArchibugiandJ.
Michie,
Cambridge
J.
Economics,
18,
121-140
(1995).
6.
R.S.
Lozano,
Economfa
Industrial,
343,
97-109
(2002).
7.
V.M.R.H.Ara6jo,
Ci.
Inf.,
13(1),53-56
(1984).
8.
Uspto -
United
States
Patent
and
Trademarks
Office,
http://wvww.uspto.
gov,
2002/2004.
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.1
~E[A
!
5f
;IR~
9047
Suttori
PlPce
H-aamillton,
Ohio
45011
USA
51
3.8a1
.7144
FAX
51?.68PI.7145
rnmlQ@rnmoorelab.corn
1
COPYRIGHT INFORMATION
TITLE: The Use of Essential Oils and Terpenics/Terpenoids in
Cosmetics and Perfumery
SOURCE: Perfum Flavor 30 no8 N/D 2005
WN: 0530508203007
The magazine publisher is the copyright holder of this article and it
is reproduced with permission. Further reproduction of this article in
violation of the copyright is prohibited. To contact the publisher:
www.perfumerflavorist.com
Copyright 1982-2005 The H.W. Wilson Company. All rights reserved.
