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26 International Journal of Trichology / Jan-Mar 2013 / Vol-5 / Issue-1
INTRODUCTION
A
chance discovery made by Garrett Morgan, an
African-American tailor was the rst one to discover
an alkaline based chemical used to polish machine
needles, which incidentally caused straightening of hair.[1]
Historically, they were mainly used by Negroid woman
to straighten their curly hair and easy management. Hot
comb method has been replaced by chemical hair relaxers
that allow permanent hair straightening.[2] Chemical based
hair relaxers are broadly classified as “Lye” relaxers,
no‑lye relaxers and “thio” relaxers.[3] We have carried out a
questionnaire based study of the adverse effects reported
by a sample from repeated use of chemical hair relaxers.
MATERIALS AND METHODS
The sample taken for this study was from the students and
faculty of AJ Institute of Medical Sciences, Mangalore.
The sample was restricted to females and to those who
underwent it more than once, with a time frame of
over 1 year from the rst application. A cross-sectional
questionnaire was prepared to gather demographic data,
reason for straightening, and various adverse effects
experienced. A questionnaire was given to a sample of
90, which matched our criteria. Men, pregnant women,
lactating mothers, samples with prior history of hair loss
and scalp disease were excluded. Informed written consent
was obtained from all subjects.
RESULTS
The demographic data shows more number of samples
belongs to the age group of 21‑25 years who have
undergone repeated chemical hair relaxers [Table 1].
The above table very clearly shows that beautication (53%)
as the single most important reason for chemical hair
relaxers, followed by ease of management (30%) [Table 2].
Chemical Hair Relaxers Have Adverse
Effects a Myth or Reality
Vinma H Shetty, Narendra J Shetty, Dhanya Gopinath Nair
Department of Dermatology, AJ Institute of Medical Sciences, Mangalore, Karnataka,
India
ABSTRACT
Context:Hairplaysanimportantroleinone’spersonalityandbuildscondence.Now-a-days,
chemical hair relaxers are used very commonly in the society. We document the adverse
effects reported by the sample that have used any one of the professional chemical hair
relaxers. Aim: To study the adverse effects reported by the sample who underwent repeated
chemical hair relaxing. Settings and Design: Cross-sectional questionnaire based study
done on a sample taken from a medical college and hospital campus in Mangalore.
Materials and Methods: The sample was restricted to females and to those who underwent
it more than once. A questionnaire was given to a sample of 90, which matched our criteria.
Statistical Analysis: SPSS software 17. Results: Adverse effects reported by the sample
after undergoing the procedure were found to be a high 95.56%, out of which the following
arethecommonadverseeffectsreported;frizzyhairin67%,dandruffin61%,hairlossin
47%, thinning and weakening of hair in 40%, greying of hair 22%, and split ends in only
17%. Conclusions: Very few studies have been conducted on the adverse effects of hair
straightening products in India. From our study, it can be stated that most of the samples
had adverse effects, which was as high as 95.56%. Hence from the details elicited from this
study, we can conclude that, usage of chemical hair relaxers does cause adverse effects
and is “not a myth.” Thus, it is necessary to make available a less harmful chemical hair
relaxer to the society.
Key words: Adverse effects, chemical hair relaxers, hair loss
Original Article
Access this article online
Website:
www.ijtrichology.com
DOI:
10.4103/0974-7753.114710
Quick Response Code:
Address for correspondence:
Dr. Vinma H Shey,
Department of Dermatology,
AJ Institute of Medical
Sciences, OPD No: 12,
Kuntikana, NH‑17,
Mangalore ‑ 575 004,
Karnataka, India.
E‑mail: vinma_shey@yahoo.
co.in
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Shetty, et al.: Adverse effects of chemical hair relaxers
International Journal of Trichology / Jan-Mar 2013 / Vol-5 / Issue-1 27
The above gure show the maximum percentage of sample
i.e., 38% used chemical relaxers up to 4 times and the least
were 2% who used up to 10 times [Table 3].
In our sample, the most important adverse effect were
found to be frizzy hair (67%) [Figures 1 and 2], followed
by dandruff (61%), hair loss (47%) [Figure 3], thinning
and weakening of hair (40%) [Table 4].
DISCUSSION
Traditionally chemical straightening of hair was achieved
by alkaline disruption of the disulphide bonds in the
cortex of the hair shaft.[4] Because of the pH (9‑12) in
chemicals used it causes considerable damage leaving
the hair dry and fragile.[5] In our study, we have not
discussed about the chemicals used in hair relaxing
Figure 1: Frizzy and dry hair
Figure 5: Split ends post procedure
Figure 4: Thinning of hair after repeated use of chemical hair relaxersFigure 3: Hair loss over the centre of the scalp.
Figure 2: Widening of central partition with frizzy hair
Table 1: Age wise distribution of the sample
Age group No. of sample Percentage
16‑20 24 27
21‑25 36 40
26‑30 16 18
31‑35 8 9
36‑40 6 7
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Shetty, et al.: Adverse effects of chemical hair relaxers
28 International Journal of Trichology / Jan-Mar 2013 / Vol-5 / Issue-1
reported [Figure 5]. It has been stated that long term use
of such products can be harmful as it is believed to enter
the scalp through scalp lesions and burns.[6] A case report
done by Kaur et al. showed deep seated staphylococcal
infection related to usage of hair relaxers, especially in
immuno‑compromised individuals.[7] Another interesting
conclusion carried out by Wise et al. was the increased risk
of uterine leiomyomata associated with hair relaxers.[6]
Fortunately there is null association between chemical hair
relaxers and occurrence of breast cancer found in a study
carried out by Rosenberg et al.[3] Seeing all this side‑effects
along with our study it is evident that there are very few
serious systemic adverse effects associated with chemical
relaxers, however, there is a denite correlation between
hair relaxers and cutaneous adverse effects.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Dr. Nanjesh Kumar S, Asst Prof, Community Medicine,
AJ Institute of Medical College.
REFERENCES
1. Obukowho P. History and evolution of hair relaxers. In: Kozlowski AC,
editor. Hair Relaxers Science, Design and Application. 1st ed. Portland:
Allured Pub Corp; 2012. p. 26.
2. Olasode OA. Chemical hair relaxation and adverse outcomes among Negroid
women in South West Nigeria. J Pak Assoc Dermatol 2009;19:203‑7.
3. Rosenberg L, Boggs DA, Adams‑Campbell LL, Palmer JR. Hair relaxers
not associated with breast cancer risk: Evidence from the black women’s
health study. Cancer Epidemiol Biomarkers Prev 2007;16:1035‑7.
4. Swee W, Klontz KC, Lambert LA. A nationwide outbreak of alopecia associated
with the use of a hair‑relaxing formulation. Arch Dermatol 2000;136:1104‑8.
5. Dias TC, Baby AR, Kaneko TM, Velasco MV. Protective effect of conditioning
agents on Afro‑ethnic hair chemically treated with thioglycolate‑based
straightening emulsion. J Cosmet Dermatol 2008;7:120‑6.
6. Wise LA, Palmer JR, Reich D, Cozier YC, Rosenberg L. Hair relaxer use and
risk of uterine leiomyomata in African‑American women. Am J Epidemiol
2012;175:432‑40.
7. Kaur BJ, Singh H, Lin‑Greenberg A. Irritant contact dermatitis complicated
by deep‑seated staphylococcal infection caused by a hair relaxer. J Natl Med
Assoc 2002;94:121‑3.
How to cite this article: Shetty VH, Shetty NJ, Nair DG.
Chemical hair relaxers have adverse effects a myth or reality. Int
J Trichol 2013;5:26-8.
Source of Support: Nil, Conict of Interest: None declared.
Table 3: Sample wise distribution of no. of times
straightening carried out
Number of times Number of persons Percentage
225 28
320 22
4 34 38
5 9 10
10 2 2
Table 4: Adverse effects among sample taken
Adverse side‑eect No. of samples* Percentage*
Frizzy hair 60 67
Graying of hair 20 22
Dandru 55 61
Hair loss 42 47
Thinning and weakening of hair 36 40
Split ends 15 17
*Some samples had more than one adverse eects
products as it is beyond the scope of the study. In this
study, the common complaints associated with the
use of chemical hair relaxers were frizzy hair (67%),
dandruff (61%), hair loss (47%), thinning and breakage of
hair (40%) as the most commonly encountered problems
[Figure 4]. These nding had some similarities as observed
in a study done by Swee W,[4] in which they found 95%
of their subjects had hair loss and hair breakage. The
possibility for this difference could be due to the nature of
the chemical used and the frequency of procedure done.
The common type of hair discoloration found was greying
of hair, observed in 22% of the samples as compared
to green, red, orange, or yellowish hue in a study carried
out by Swee W.[4] In our study we found split ends to be
an adverse side‑effect in 17%, which is not commonly
Table 2: Reason among the sample for under
going the procedure
Reason for straightening No. of samples Percentage
Beautication 48 53
Social acceptability 4 4
Peer pressure 11 12
Ease of management 27 30
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