Where Chocolate Begins and Research Methods End: Understanding Kuna Cacao Consumption

Abstract

Contrary to a recent deluge of scientific and popular publications, the island-dwelling Kuna people of Ailigandi, San Blas Panama do not consume large amounts of locally derived cacao beverages. This paper introduces new research on the actual consumption of Theobroma cacao among the people of Ailigandi. The chocolate tree, Theobroma cacao, is of great cultural importance for Kuna people, and its fruits are used within multiple contexts as an irreplaceable element of Kuna identity and cultural life. However, cacao cultivation has become dramatically more difficult because of the numerous fungal pathogens that attack the tree. Despite the constraints this has placed on local cacao production, recent studies suggest that Kuna people consume large amounts of local cacao. This research evaluates the livelihood strategies and dietetic intake of the Kuna in a cross-cultural context. Findings suggest that recent studies may have misunderstood the local reality in their depictions of the Kuna people of Ailigandi as prolific consumers of locally derived cacao. Using a methodology that incorporates a local nomenclature, I found that the actual consumption of locally grown cacao among Kuna people is negligible, notwithstanding the claims of researchers whose work is largely funded by an industrial chocolate manufacturer.

Full text

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VOL. 72, NO. 3, FALL 2013
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Introduction
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      





-



Theobroma cacao
  -


Theobroma cacao
  
Jeffrey Barnes is a Professor of Geography and Environmental Studies
at Dawson College, Montreal, Quebec. This study was supported by a
Short-Term Fellowship at the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute
(Panama) under the supervision of Dr. Fernando Santos Granero.
Research was facilitated by cooperation with and written permission
from the General Kuna Congress and the local authorities of Ailigandi.
Special thanks to Fundación Dobbo Yala, Interpreter; Domingo Diaz;
and Anaclaton Morris, Community Secretary of Ailigandi. Also, special
thanks go to the Spaulding Residence.
Where Chocolate Begins and Research Methods
End: Understanding Kuna Cacao Consumption
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
Theobroma cacaoTheobroma cacao


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



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

 
Gastronomica






-


   






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
-

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HUMAN ORGANIZATION

   





    
-










 
   
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 

4







-



-





   

-


-

-

   
originating-
Theobroma cacao

  -

    






5


-


-








 





  
-

    

-



Methods and Context



congresos






  
 
-
household historical characterizations
  








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VOL. 72, NO. 3, FALL 2013
    



  
7


-

   -
Dulegaya
8



-

-
-



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
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  
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
  Siagwa

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      
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


-











   






214
HUMAN ORGANIZATION
-


-


Results
-

     
    

-
 t
  n
    



       



9




Cacao Nomenclature
  
10
  
   




11



 


-
-
Dulegaya






SiagwanisKaynis Siagwaba

Cocoa Ubiled
Cocoa Gobed


Madun
Ochi    
Madun
Siagwaba

Olligwa
Siagwa Olligwa,

Origin of Cacao Consumables






when



when needed

n
n


  
   
1 Siagwanis/Kaynis Siagwaba Whole cacao, sugar (granulated or cane) Gobed Cocoa beverage
2 Cocoa Gobed Cocoa powder, sugar Gobed Cocoa beverage
3 Siagwa Olligwa Whole cacao, corn, sugar Olligwa Cocoa/corn beverage
4 Cocoa Olligwa Cocoa powder, corn, sugar Olligwa Cocoa/corn beverage
5 Madun Siagwaba Banana, whole cacao Madun/Ochi Cocoa/banana beverage
6 Madun Cocoaba Banana, cocoa powder Madun/Ochi Cocoa/banana beverage

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

    






-







 
Siagwa
   -
 



12





      
 -



-







  
  




n
 Siagwa
   -

of Siagwa

   

Siagwa

Siagwa
14
  
 
n
1
   
1 Siagwanis/Kaynis 1 cup/35days 1 cup/37 days
3 Siagwa Olligwa 1 cup/23 days 1 cup/23 days
5 Madun Siagwaba 1 cup/23 days 1 cup/25 days
Totals in frequency per week 0.81 cups per week 0.77 cups per week
or 1 cup per 1.2 weeks or 1 cup per 1.3 weeks
1
Respondents were asked to quantify the consumption frequency of discrete beverages in terms that were most comfortable to them. Their
responses were thereafter converted into weekly values.
Figure 1. Histogram of Household Historical
   



HUMAN ORGANIZATION

Theobroma cacao.

-

-
         



Theobroma cacao

 -



         


-






Discussion
-

    



-
 



     
   
      


-






-


  

    -



-



   


   





-





    -
Siagwa be nikka
  
Figure 2. Ailigandi community member and default


     
gourd that was used to distribute nearly

Theo-
broma cacao 

Mars’ varieties.

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-
   
Siagwa—

-








   
-




    



-





       







-


-

Hypertension Nutrition,Cardiovascular
Pharmacology




  Theobroma
cacao     






   
 
 
Siagwa
Siagwa

Siagwa


Siagwa
Notes
1

-

2
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

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
4

5
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


n
knowers of cacao

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


-
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
9
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
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-


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   
-

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

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    




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References Cited

  



  
Theobroma cacao

   

  



  
    

  



      
     

   

  




  Theobroma cacao


  





         


          




  
   


         



  



  

  


 

    

  
      
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  
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    
  
 

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  
    
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  
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           
  
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        
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  
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
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  
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        
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    

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  

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
     
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 



  


       


  



  



      


  


     



  


    Theobroma
cacao  


    



  
 


       


  
    



      


  
    


  
