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BOOK REVIEW
FINE WINE AND TERRIOR, THE GEOSCIENCE PERSPECTIVE
Edited by R.W.Macqueen and L.D.Meinert, 2006
Geological Association of Canada, c/o Department of Earth Sciences,
Memorial University, St.John’s, Newfoundland & Labrador, Canada A1B 3X5
247 p., ISBN 1-897095-21-X, hard cover. CDN $49.95
Reviewed by Murray A.Roed
4890 Westridge Drive
Kelowna, BC V1W 3A1
mroed@shaw.ca
What makes a fine wine? I have always wondered. Having neither the expertise to
judge nor a particularly thirsting desire to find out, this book nevertheless is a revelation,
and has been a genuine learning experience. It presents the work of 26 authors in no less
than ten major wine producing regions mainly in the northern hemisphere on three
continents, all pioneering the exploration of the geoscience aspects that make a fine wine.
Terrior is a wide ranging and historical French term dating to the 14th Century that
presently refers to climatic, physical, chemical, and human skill factors that combine to
impose unique character and certain quality to wine from any wine-producing region. The
scientific emphasis in this book is the particular physical influences of a wide range of
geologic influences on wine quality, as a contributing component to terrior. Specifically,
the contributions of soil, surficial material, stratigraphy, bedrock, geomorphology, surface
water, groundwater, geologic history, and even trace elements and volatile components
(in the Okanagan) have been investigated in numerous and well known vineyards by
local geoscientists under carefully planned observational assessments.
This volume is really a collection of seventeen papers most of which have
appeared in the quarterly journal, Geoscience Canada, since 1999, with the important
addition of six papers from a Geological Society of America wine symposium in 2003
held in Seattle, Washington. It has to be considered somewhat of a landmark publication
because there is nothing comparable to it anywhere. It is also fitting that this benchmark
publication is dedicated to the memory of Simon John Haynes (1944-2002), a Canadian
geologist that pioneered geologic investigations of vineyards in the Niagara region of
Canada, and in so doing helped precipitate a whole new branch of geoscience research
that is bound to flourish across the world given impressive growth of the wine industry in
all wine producing countries.
The bottom line is, however, does geology affect wine quality? If it does, in what
way does it contribute to terrior, how is the geologic effect determined, and how can this
information be applied? The rest of this review will be a summary of possible answers to
these questions as derived from references to selected popular wine regions described in
this book.
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But before I go on, I have been totally impressed with all authors concerning the
diligence, uniqueness and thoroughness with which they have approached this subject.
Almost every paper presents a comprehensive, well illustrated, colourful, and
entertaining account of the local geology of the wine producing areas. I found this
fascinating, and where else could one obtain an overview of this sort? I had to keep
reminding myself, this is about wine also! Of course, the geologic setting and its
potentially detailed influences on quality wine is what this volume is about. I must admit
that I became focused on the geologic splendour of these unique wine-producing regions
and if I ever travel to the subject localities, I will be sure to have this volume at hand. In
addition, many papers include a history of the development of the local wine industry
garnished with substantial statistical data on wine production and climatic records, and
lengthy lists of references.
Following a fine introduction by co-editor Lawrence Meinert, the book begins
with two papers by no other than Simon Haynes for whom this publication is dedicated.
The first paper reviews the term “terrior” and the role of geology, citing for example the
bedrock geologic setting of the Hill of Corton, France, known for its fine red and white
wines. The second paper presents an archetype assessment of the Niagara Peninsula
appellation (wine region). Haynes describes a plethora of detailed conditions mainly
along the north facing slope of the Niagara Escarpment that combine in a complicated
fashion to form distinct proposed “subdivisions” producing a range of fine quality wines,
with examples of grape variety and name brands. Generally, parent materials consist of
till and glaciolacustrine clay, a noted departure compared to many other wine regions,
and possibly the overall reason that Niagara wines are distinct. These “soil” conditions
and a tendancy to early frost also influence the production of fine quality ice wines for
which the region is famous. This paper thus presents convincing evidence that given the
dominant climate controls, such as favourable temperature, effect of large water bodies
(Lake Ontario), wind and precipitation, geologic factors do appear to affect wine terrior.
The next paper by Meinert and Busacca in the Walla Walla Valley of southeastern
Washington delves much deeper into the stratigraphy of near-surface materials of Lake
Missoula deposits, and loess-mantled and dissected Miocene basaltic terrain of the
Washington Scabland. Detailed soil profiles, cross-sections, and colour photos reveal
important growing attributes of various wine varieties primarily controlled by structures,
stratigraphy and composition of the surficial material with older roots exceeding three
meters in depth. However, given the prevalent conditions of other terrior factors, the
authors are hard pressed to identify specific geologic factors (other than poor drainage
and hard layers) that influence wine quality, a subject for further research and doubtless
more wine-tasting. One exception is the Caillouxe Vineyard which produces great Syrah
wine from a pavement of coarse basalt cobbles, in contrast to neighboring vineyards
underlain by loess or silty clay flood deposits of Glacial Lake Missoula.
Meinert and Busacca’s next paper on the Red Mountain appellation of central
Washington should follow the above paper but doesn’t, a strange editorial break in flow.
Geologically Red Mountain has similar terrain to Walla Walla but is a relatively younger
wine producing area. Red Mountain merlot wine has been ranked as best in the United
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States for at least two years, and its sunlight exposure is considered to be similar to that
of the Napa Valley 1000 km to the south. Apart from near surface bedrock that restricts
root penetration, the soils of Red Mountain present a wide variation, even on individual
vineyards. One vineyard, the Ciel du Cheval, has been selected to detail the wines
produced from three different soil types, a subject for a future paper. The authors
conclude with a vote in favour of the importance of lenses of glacial outwash gravel at
Red Mountain and compare this to wine production in similar deposits of the Bourdeaux
region of France and the gravel outwash plains of the South Island of New Zealand.
James Wilson’s historical note on the origin of terrior, an interesting and
informative account, and Taylor’s et al paper on trace elements in the wines of the
Okanagan are out of place in the book. Wilson’s paper should be near the beginning, not
on page 55, and Taylor’s et al should be with the rest of the Okanagan papers.
A unique approach for discrimination of wines over a broad geographic area, such
as the Okanagan valley, was undertaken by Taylor et al. Trace element concentrations of
52 Okanagan wines and 26 vineyards were examined to test for correlations between
wine and soil/bedrock compositions. The authors admit that their study is no more than a
reconnaissance overview, but it would have been far more meaningful if more detail on
the stratigraphy of surficial deposits in the vineyards could have been presented. But the
fact of the matter is that the Okanagan is far behind in this kind of resource inventory.
Despite this, this study and companion studies of volatiles in Okanagan wines by Eggers
et al, and a regional application of trace element signatures by Greenough et al,
mentioned below, represent a futuristic departure from the other papers in this volume.
Based on an incredible amount of chemical statistical data, Taylor et al, focused
mainly on Okanagan white wines of Vitis vinifera varieties and found that ten elements
(Al, V, Mn, Co, Zn, Rb, Sr, Mo, Sb, and U) reflect overall trends suggesting some
promise for fingerprinting vineyard origin. The authors considered complex fermentation
factors and discovered many limitations for deciphering local provenance. I had no idea
that wines were so nutritious, and so sensitive to various wine production techniques.
Geologicaly, no strong trends were found. In contrast, Greenough et al present a regional
study of trace elements in a number of Canadian wines and found strong regional
variations that in each region are influenced by different soils/bedrock materials.
Therefore, on a macro scale, site geology conditions certainly must affect wine terrior.
A far different approach to Okanagan wine terrior is presented by Bowen et al
employing GIS technology to assess viticulture performance. This paper, produced by
scientists at the Pacific Agri-Food Research Centre at Summerland, is full of geoscience
and long term viticulture data concerning medal winning wines in all subregions of the
Okanagan and neighboring Similkameen valleys. Detailed terrain types are correlated
with numerous fine wines, and best performing grape varieties in each subregion are
summarized. Medal winning white wines dominate the Kelowna, Penticton and
Similkameen areas where glaciolacustrine soils, especially around Kelowna, are on the
average fine grained in moderately drained terrace landforms. In contrast, subregions
further south are dominated by quality Bordeaux varieties where surficial deposits consist
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of thick sand and gravel outwash terraces and alluvial fans that are very well drained.
Sandy loam soils are considered best overall. Another Okanagan study by Eggers et al
focuses on 31 organic volatiles present in 12 Okanagan Chardonnay wines, 2000 vintage
year. Although winery practices differ, there appears to be regional geographic
differences in aroma of white wines primarily related to climatic factors rather than
geology at this early stage of research.
Vineyards in the Western Snake River Plain of Idaho are located on Quaternary
fluvial terraces in a down-dropped topographic basin as described by Gillerman et al.
Actually, terrain is exceedingly complex and many soil types yield quality wines but it is
clear that vineyards appear to be orientated along loamy to gravelly terraces and finer
soils of Holocene flood deposits in a restricted topographic range along the Snake River.
One of best examples of geologic and geomorphic influences on historic quality
wine production is provided by Cita and Fiore in the terriors of Terroldego Rotallina and
Aglianico of the southern Italian Alps and Aglianico del Vulture on the lower slopes of a
volcano in the Southern Appenines. The former terrior has an “ideal” terrain setting in a
sun-drenched small valley rimmed with massive carbonate cliffs and mantled with post-
glacial calcareous sand and gravel terraces. The latter terrior is obviously related to rich
and fertile terrain formed from potassium-rich volcanoclastic deposits. Vineyards in these
terriors are by far the most expensive in Italy. Both, historically, produce large volumes of
fine red wines, in fact, single-varietal “niche” wines. This paper in particular is a salute to
clear implications of the details of geologic terrain contributing to terrior with lots of hard
geologic data to back this up. One cannot argue with success.
Another totally convincing analysis of geology actually controlling terrior
potential is given by Swinchatt et al exemplified by details of stratigraphy at Stag’s Leap
Wine Cellars of the Napa Valley, California. The geologic framework has been
exceptionally well illustrated and discussed, culminating in a very detailed subsurface
look at an individual part of a vineyard that is underlain by a certain heterogeneous debris
flow that consistently produces medal winning wine. No boulder remains unturned in this
excellent paper and vitners should take notice of this model of “how to do it”!
An analysis of soil water throughout vineyard blocks by Hubbard et al is a
welcome contribution in this volume, and will indeed be an eye-opener to all vineyard
managers. The authors have proven that the application of ground penetrating radar to
identify groundwater related characteristics in subsurface soils critical for optimal vine
growth is at hand. Although this is a geophysical technique with accompanying
operational and fine tuning impediments, successful results of such a survey provide a
solid framework for engineering highly effective drainage and irrigation plans that will be
sure to improve vineyard health. This paper is a fine example of how geoscience
techniques can almost immediately be applied to enhance vineyard terrior. Well done!
Jones et al performed a GIS analysis of terrior potential in the Umpqua Valley in
southwestern Oregon. One cannot understate the value of this kind of geoscience
initiative. Basically what evolves is an accurate fact-based assessment of the potential for
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establishing vineyards on ideally suited geologic terrain (not just pedalogic soils),
something, for example, which has never been done in any detail in the Okanagan. The
focus here is strongly land use orientated, a first base for future development. Partly, this
is also true of Bargmann’s comprehensive treatment of an historic wine region of Western
Cape Province in South Africa, the only paper in this volume from the southern
hemisphere. Bargmann had lots of wine production data available concerning historic
wines such as Paarl, Stellenbach and others and he has tied these contrasting wines to
contrasting terrain settings in considerable detail despite the broad reconnaissance nature
of his study. Wines are strongly influenced for example by residual weathering of granite,
the unusual presence of kaolin in the Stellenbosch District, the influence of potassium,
here a negative impact, but not so in Italy (see above). A very interesting paper and the
first time to my knowledge that a geologic snapshot of this famous land has been
published. The stage has been set in South Africa for further geoscience application to
terrior.
Climate is by far the most dominant factor for wine production defined by two
narrow world-encircling viticulture zones in both hemispheres between ten and twenty
degrees Centigrade. Jones has taken this to heart in his benchmark paper of climate
variability which is in many ways a treatise on global warming, a highly contemporary
topic. Dealing specifically with wine regions, Jones has compiled some rather
outstanding temperature data tracking gradual warming in at least the short term and
projections for the future. Vitners beware! One of his diagrams summarizes all of the
major vines compared to average growing season temperatures that displays the stark
reality of the optimum range of each vine type. He also describes the Bordeaux example
where the geologic setting is rated as the number two dominant factor for quality wine.
The last paper in this book by Suthern et al is in many ways the most fun. It
describes what has to be a very original and unique education venture about fieldwork in
the Languedoc-Roussillon area of southern France where without doubt geologic
diversity can be quite readily observed to influence terrior of vineyards. Students not only
have the benefit of a wide range of geologic features in the foothills of the Pyranees, they
also get to sample wine. It does not get much better than this. The area has it all,
structure, stratigraphy, volcanoes, mines, quarries, museums, engineering geology,
groundwater, and vineyards. I would love to sign up!
Simon Haynes would be hard pressed not to be proud of the progress documented
here in deciphering the geoscience influence on wine terrior. This is an outstanding book,
a must-read for any geoscientist that has even had a sip of wine, and totally is required
reading and study by vineyard managers, the primary beneficiaries, if they wish to
improve their wine. I am now determined to invest in further wine education, if you know
what I mean. Enjoy!
Reference: The Canadian Mineralogist, 2007, vol. 45 (2): p. 406-408.
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