Hibiscus and cornflower – raw materials for natural hair dyeing

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Hibiscus and cornflower – raw
materials for natural hair
dyeing
Katarzyna Pytkowska
Academy of Cosmetics and Health
Care, Warsaw, Poland

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Plant preparations for hair
dyeing
Plants have been used for dyeing hair for ages
Henna (Lawsonia inermis)
•lawsone, 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone
Green shells of walnut (Juglans regia)
•juglone, 5-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone
German chamomille (Chamomilla recutita)
•Apigenin
Indigofera tinctoria
•Indigotin

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Other plants of interest
Other plants used traditionally for hair coloration
in Europe
Sweet sedge (Acorus calamus)
Rhubarb (Rheum spp.)
Oak bark
Plants containing high amount of dyes and
pigments of intense shade
Hibiscus (Hibiscus sabdariffa)
Cornflower (Centaurea cyanus)

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Mechanisms of action of plant
dyes
Reactive dyeing
Maillard reaction with keratin
•lawsone, juglone
Direct dyeing
Adsorption of dyes/pigments on the hair
cuticle
•Apigenin
•Other flavonoids
•Other substances

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Hibiscus sabdariffa petals
The main ingredient
of hibiscus infusions
the additive to other
blends of herbs
Strong ruby-red colour
and characteristic
aroma

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Colouring agents in hibiscus
flavonoids
anthocyanides, flavonols
•E.g. delphinidin (1),
delphinin, cyanidin (2),
hibiscetin, gossipetin and
their glycosides.

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Problems with natural dyes
Natural dyes are (in solutions):
not very stable,
prone to oxidation, browning, UV discolouration etc.
highly pH sensitive
none of these adverse effects are applicable to the dry
powdered material containing natural dye
but …
in-home application of packs and pastes prepared from dry
herbal material could be difficult
Colour effects are sometimes dificult to predict
Colour is strongly determined by the plant

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Factors influencing intensity
and durability of color
the kind of hair and the damage intensity,
initial hair colour,
earlier application of synthetic dyes and/or
bleaching products,
structure of a natural dye,
frequency of the application of plant
preparation,
the temperature of dyeing mixture
duration of the mixture - hair contact

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How to change colour coming
from natural dyes?
… by complexes formation or
destabilization
Mordants
Chelating agents
… by dye absorption
HMW additives to formulation

Our research

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Hibiscus
We used the following types of preparations for
research
dyeing blend
•Infusion of H. sabdariffa petals in water in proportion 1: 10,
applied cold,
dyeing rinse
•Infusion of H. sabdariffa petals in water in proportion 1: 20,
applied warm,
dyeing pastes
•thickened preparations based on the dyeing blend
The colour of the dyeing preparation strongly
depends on pH

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pH value Colour ot the dyeing blend
3,12 Intense pink-red
3,35 Pink-red
4,80 Light pink
5,58 No colour
6,57 Light yellow
7,09 Brown-yellow
7,65 Light blue
7,90 Brown-blue
> 7,90 Brown-blue

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Rinse
Colour effect 2x 2 min. 4x 2min.
Dark brown - -
Medium brown +++ +++
Golden reflexes ++ +++
Red shade - -
Conditioning ++ ++
+++ dominant colour, ++ additional shades, - none
Shade: +++ strong shade, ++ visible shade, + light shade, - no shade
Conditioning effect: +++ strong, ++ good, + slight, - none

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Paste with
kaolin
20 min.
Paste with
kaolin
40 min.
Paste with
wheat bran
20 min.
Paste with
wheat bran
40 min.
Dark brown +++ +++ ++ +++
Medium brown ++ - +++ ++
Golden
reflexes
+ - ++ +++
Red shades - + - -
Conditioning
effect
+ - ++ +++
+++ dominant colour, ++ additional shades, - none
Shade: +++ strong shade, ++ visible shade, + light shade, - no shade
Conditioning effect: +++ strong, ++ good, + slight, - none

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Hibiscus
Effects
Slight colour effect on dark hair
Strong conditioning
Adsorbents change the colour effect

Preparations for grey or
bleached hair

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Grey or bleached hair
Problem – too yellow shade
Remain of phaeomelanin in originally blonde, grey
hair
Insufficuent bleaching
Solution – optical brightening
Sorption of blue dye/pigment on the hair surface –
use of blue pigment-rich raw material
Removal of red/yellow dyes from a natural raw
material by sorption or complex formation
pH shift of colour (not applicable to human hair)

Hibiscus preparations

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Additive pH value Colour
uniformity
Hair shade
pink blonde
No additive 3,17 + + + + + + -
Rice mash 3,25 +/ - + + +
Kaolin 3,25 - + +
Corn flour 3,31 - + +
Wheat bran 3,36 + + + - + + +
Oat bran 3,38 + + + - + + +
Colour uniformity
+++ uniform, even colour; +/- quite even colour ; - uneven, not uniform colour
Colour
+++ dominant shade; ++ additional shade; + very light shade;

Effects of inorganic additives

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Mordants used in traditional
textile dyeing
Alum (potassium aluminum sulfate)
does not affect colour strongly. It is usually used with potassium
tartrate, which helps to provide evenness and will also brighten
slightly.
Iron (ferrous sulfate).
It will sadden or darken colours,
Tin (stannous chloride)
blooms or brightens colours, especially reds, oranges and
yellows.
Almost always used with potassium tartrate.
Not allowed for use in cosmetics
Copper (copper sulfate)
saddens colours and brings out greens.

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Chromametric analysis L*a*b*
scale

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Natural blond hair dL*(D65) da*(D65) db*(D65) dE*ab(D65)
Hibiscus sabdariffa, pH=3,3 -5,22 -1,99 -4,32 7,06
Hibiscus sabdariffa + Fe2O3;
pH=3,3 -3,29 -2,02 -7,45 8,39
Hibiscus sabdariffa, pH=5,8 -3,11 1,41 -2,63 4,31
Hibiscus sabdariffa + Fe2O3;
pH=5,8 -8,82 -2,34 -4,58 10,21
Hibiscus sabdariffa + Fe2O3 +
trisodium EDTA -9,07 3,77 -4,59 10,84
Hibiscus sabdariffa +
trisodium EDTA -9,72 5,99 -6,48 13,13
(Chromametr Konica-Minolta: Chroma Meter CR-400)

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Bleached hair dL*(D65) da*(D65) db*(D65) dE*ab(D65)
Hibiscus sabdariffa, pH=3,3 -6,19 2,42 -6,44 9,25
Hibiscus sabdariffa + Fe2O3;
pH=3,3 -12,33 -3,18 -13,15 18,3
Hibiscus sabdariffa, pH=5,8 -7,97 -4,79 -10,55 14,06
Hibiscus sabdariffa + Fe2O3;
pH=5,8 -7,06 -4,63 -5,11 9,86
Hibiscus sabdariffa + Fe2O3 +
trisodium EDTA -9,99 7,71 -14,43 19,17
Hibiscus sabdariffa + trisodium
EDTA -9,67 5,72 -12,42 16,74

Cornflower preparations

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Cornflower
The main blue
pigment of cornflower
petals is a complex
compound of
flavonoids and Al ion
(protocyanin)

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Cornflower preparations
We used the following types of preparations for
research
dyeing blend
•Infusion of cornflower petals in water, applied cold,
dyeing rinse
•Infusion of cornflower petals in hot water
•The infusion changed the colour to strawberry-red
The problem
The stability of Al-flavonoid complex

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Cornflower
Application on bleached hair
Decrease of b* parameter in chromametric
evaluation
Colour shift by mordants
Cu and Zn containing mordants shifted the
cornflower-based colour to the blue region
The effect was similar to the effect of pure
mordants

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Conclusions
Hibiscus-based raw materials should be
fully applicable to
hair care cosmetics for grey and bleached
hair
plant-based dyeing preparations
Cornflower is a plant of high interest
The main problem to solve is blue pigment
stability in solutions

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Acknowledgments
I would like to thank the researchers
involved in the project: Stanislaw Krus
MSc, Halah Faraj BSc, Sylwia Antczak
BSc and Ewa Pawłowska.