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Inventi Rapid: Cosmeceuticals Vol. 2012, Issue 4
[ISSN 0976-3864]
2012 pcc 077, CCC: $10 © Inventi Journals (P) Ltd
Published on Web 10/10/2012, www.inventi.in
REVIEW ARTICLE
INTRODUCTION
The word cosmetic was derived from the Greek word
“kosm tikos” meaning having the power, arrange, skill in
decorating 1. The origin of cosmetics forms a continuous
narrative throughout the history of man as they developed.
The man in prehistoric times 3000BC used colours for
decoration to attract the animals that he wished to hunt
and also the man survived attack from the enemy by
colouring his skin and adorned his body for protection to
provoke fear in an enemy (whether man or animal) 2. The
origin of cosmetics were associated with hunting, fighting,
religion and superstition and later associated with
medicine 3.
Herbal Cosmetics, here in after referred as Products, are
formulated, using various permissible cosmetic ingredients
to form the base in which one or more herbal ingredients
are used to provide defined cosmetic benefits only, shall be
called as “Herbal Cosmetics 4”.
Beginning 1990's cosmetic manufacturer adapted a
term 'cosmeceuticals' to describe the OTC skin care
products that claims therapeutic benefit by addition of
plant based active ingredient such as alpha-hydroxy
acid, retinoic acid, ascorbic acid and coenzyme Q10 5.
These active ingredients serves many purposes viz.
increase in skin elasticity, delay in skin aging by
reducing the wrinkles, protection against UV radiation
by antioxidant property and to check degradation of
collagen respectively 6.
The skin and hair beauty of individuals depends on the
health, habits, routine job, climatic conditions and
maintenance7. The skin due to excessive exposure to heat
will dehydrate during summer and causes wrinkle, freckles,
blemishes, pigmentation and sunburns. The extreme winter
cause damages to the skin in the form of cracks, cuts,
maceration and infections8. The skin diseases are common
among all age groups and can be due to exposure towards
microbes, chemical agents, biological toxin present in the
environment, and also to some extend due to malnutrition9.
The only factor they had to rely on was the knowledge of
1Department of Quality Assurance, I. S. F. College of Pharmacy, Moga-
142001, Punjab, India.
E-mail: sumitkumarmittal@gmail.com
*Corresponding author
nature compiled in the ayurveda. The science of ayurveda
had utilized many herbs and floras to make cosmetics for
beautification and protection from external affects 10. The
natural content in the botanicals does not cause any side
effects on the human body; instead enrich the body with
nutrients and other useful minerals 11. The cosmetics,
according to the Drugs and Cosmetics Act is defined as
articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or
sprayed on, introduced into or otherwise applied to the
human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying,
promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance12. The
cosmetic does not come under the preview of drug license.
The herbal cosmetics are the preparations containing
phytochemical from a variety of botanical sources, which
influences the functions of skin and provide nutrients
necessary for the healthy skin or hair 13. The natural herbs
and their products when used for their aromatic value in
cosmetic preparation are termed as herbal cosmetics 14.
There is common belief that chemical based cosmetics are
harmful to the skin and an increased awareness among
consumers for herbal products triggered the demand for
natural products and natural extracts in cosmetics
preparations15.The increased demand for the natural
product has created new avenues in cosmeceutical market.
The Drug and Cosmetics Act specify that herbs and
essential oils used in cosmetics must not claim to penetrate
beyond the surface layers of the skin nor should have any
therapeutic effect 16. The legal requirement and the
regulatory procedures for herbal cosmetics are same as
that for other chemical ingredients used in cosmetic
formulations 17.
The requirements for the basic skin care:
x
x
Cleansing agent: which remove the dust, dead cells and
dirt that chokes the pores on the skin. Some of the
common cleansers include vegetable oils like coconut,
sesame and palm oil 18.
x
Toners: The toners help to tighten the skin and keep it
from being exposed to many of the toxins that are
floating in the air or other environmental pollutants.
Some of the herbs used as toners are witch hazel,
geranium, sage, lemon, ivy burdock and essential oils19.
x
Moisturizing: The moisturizing helps the skin to become
soft and supple. Moisturizing shows a healthy glow and
Herbal Cosmetics: Used for Skin and Hair
Kumar Sumit1*, Swarankar Vivek1, Sharma Sujata1, Baldi Ashish1
Abstracts: The concept of beauty and cosmetics is as ancient as mankind and
civilization. Women are obsessed with looking
beautiful. So, they use various beauty products that have herbs to look charming and young. Indian herbs and its significance are
popular worldwide. An herbal cosmetic have growing demand in the world market an
d is an invaluable gift of nature. Herbal
formulations always have attracted considerable attention because of their good activity and comparatively lesser or nil side
effects with synthetic drugs. Herbs and spices have been used in maintaining and enhanc
ing human beauty. Indian women have
long used herbs such as Sandalwood and Turmeric for skin care, Henna to color the hair, palms and soles; and natural oils to
perfume their bodies. Not too long ago, elaborate herbal beauty treatments were carried out in
the royal palaces of India to
heighten sensual appeal and maintain general hygiene. The herbal cosmetics manufactured and used commonly for daily
purpose include herbal face wash, herbal conditioner, herbal soap, herbal shampoo etc. The industry is now foc
using on the
growing segment with a vast scope of manifold expansion in coming years. Herbal cosmetics are defined as the beauty products
which posses desirable physiological activity such as healing, smoothing appearance, enhancing and conditioning properties
because of herbal ingredient. Here we reported the introduction, classification, common herbs used in cosmetics.
1
Inventi Rapid: Cosmeceuticals Vol. 2012, Issue 4
[ISSN 0976-3864]
2012 pcc 077, CCC: $10 © Inventi Journals (P) Ltd
Published on Web 10/10/2012, www.inventi.in
REVIEW ARTICLE
are less prone to aging 20. Some of the herbal
moisturizers include vegetable glycerin, sorbitol, rose
water, jojoba oil, aloe vera and iris 21.
Herbal Cosmetics Can Be Grouped Into Following Major
Categories
xCosmetics for enhancing the appearance of facial skin
xCosmetics for hair growth and care
xCosmetics for skin care, especially in teenager22 (acne,
pimples and sustaining)
xShampoos, soaps, powders and perfumery, etc.
xMiscellaneous products
Table 1: Skin Types and their Care
Skin Type Features
Suitable Skin Care
Herbal
Essential oils
Normal
Has even tone, soft, smooth texture, no
visible pores or blemishes and no greasy
patches or flaky areas.
Pomegranate leaves
juice, Herbal Face Pack,
Gingili Oil
Chamomile, Fennel,
Geranium, Lavender,
Lemon, Rose, Sandal Wood,
Patchouli.
Dry
Low level of sebum and prone to
sensitivity. Has a parched look, feels
“tight. Chapping and cracking are signs of
extremely dry, dehydrated skin.
Aloe Vera, Olive Oil,
Calendula
Comfrey
Chamomile, Fennel,
Geranium,Lavender,
Lemon,Rose, Sandal Wood
Patchouli, Almond, Avocado
Oily
Shiny, thick and dull coloured Chronically
oily skin has coarse pores and pimples
and other embarrassing blemishes. Prone
to black heads
Aloe Vera, Burdock Root
chamomile Horsetail, Oat Straw,
Thyme, Lavender, Lemon Grass,
Liquorice, Rose Buds, Witch
Hazel
Bergamot, Cypress
Frankincense Geranium,
juniper, Lavender, Lemon,
Sage Evening Primrose
Combination
Some parts of your face are dry or flaky,
while the center part of your face, nose,
chin, and forehead (called the T- zone) is
oily.
Witch Hazel, Menthol,
Aloe Vera, Turmeric,
Wheat Germ, Sweet Flag
Citrus Oils, Jasmine
Oil, Sandal Wood Oil
Table 2: Special Skin Problems and Herbal Remedies
S. No.
Skin Problem
Features
Remedies
1.
Chapped Skin
Rough texture which sometimes causes the
skin to crack
Application of oils of St.John Wort, Olive Oil or
Mashed Avocado after bathing or massaging
with warm Olive Oil, Mustard or Coconut Oil
half an hour before bathing
2.
Withered Skin
Very tough texture, full of wrinkles
Carrot Juice along with a mixture of egg white
and honey
3.
Sallow Skin
No color look, skin becomes lusterless and
shows lack of vitality
Inclusion of Vitamin B in diet.
4.
Sensitive Skin
React quickly to both heat and cold.
Sunburns and wind burns occur easily.
Skins become dry delicate and prone to
allergic reactions.
Use of essential oil of Chamomile, Lavender
Neroli, Rose and Sandal Wood Oil.
5.
Acne
Pockets of infection that manifest as red
sores, boils and pimples.
Usage of Red Sanda Wood Oil.
Table 3: List of Plants with Cosmetic Application for Skin Care
Scientific Name
Common Name
Part Uses
Uses
Acarus calamus (Araceae)
Sweet flag,
Rhizome
Aromatic, Dusting powders, Skin lotions
Alhagi camelorum (Leguminosae)
Jawasa
Leaves
Skin disorders
Allium sativum (Liliaceae)
Garlic
Bulb
Promotes skin healing, Antibacterial
Aloe vera (Liliaceae)
Aloe vera
Leaf
Moisturizer, Sun screen, Emollient
Alpinia galangal (Zingiberaceae)
Galanga
Rhizome
Aromatic, Dusting powders
Avena sativa (Gramineae)
Oat
Fruit
Moisturizer, Skin tonic
Azadiracta indica(Meliaceae)
Neem
Leaf
Antiseptic, reduce dark spots, Antibacterial
Bauhinia racemosa (Leguminosae)
Kanchivala
Bark and leaves
Skin disorders
Calendula ofjicinalis (Compositae)
Marigold
Flower
Skin care, Anti-inflammatory, Antiseptic Creams.
Centella asiatica (Apiaceae)
Brahmi
Plant
Wound healing, Reduce Stretch marks
Mesua ferrea (Guttiferae)
Cobras saffron
Flower
Astringent
Panax ginseng (Araliaceae)
Ginseng
Root
Stimulate blood flow to skin
Zizyphus jujube (Rhamnaceae)
Zizyphus
Fruit
Skin Care
Zingiber zerumbet (Zingiberaceae)
Zamabad
Rhizomes
Skin Care
2
Inventi Rapid: Cosmeceuticals Vol. 2012, Issue 4
[ISSN 0976-3864]
2012 pcc 077, CCC: $10 © Inventi Journals (P) Ltd
Published on Web 10/10/2012, www.inventi.in
REVIEW ARTICLE
Indian Extracts for Herbal Cosmetics
Herbs play a significant role, especially in modem imes,
when the damaging effects of food processing and over-
medication have assumed alarming proportions 23. They are
now being increasingly cosmetics, foods and teas, as well as
alternative medicines. The growing interest in herbs is a part
of the movement towards change in life-styles 24. This
movement is based on the belief that the plants have a vast
potential for their use as a curative medicine.
Oat (Avena sativa)
It is a species of cereal grain grown for its seed, which is
known by the same name (usually in the plural, unlike
other grains) 25. Oats are not only consumed for nutritional
purposes, but are also recognized as possessing healing and
soothing properties. The gentle process used to extract oat
oil from the whole oat kernels ensures that the biological
value remains unaltered. Oat oil is rich in antioxidants,
essential fatty acids and natural emollients26. Oat oil is used
in many lotions, creams, facial oils, salves and balms since
its properties add unique benefits.
Marigold (Calendula officinalis)
Calendula officinalis is a plant known as pot marigold. It
should not be confused with other types of plants more
commonly known as marigold, such as those in the
genus Tagetes 27. A number of ingredients used in
cosmetics and personal care products are made
from Calendula officinalis, including an extract of the whole
plant (Calendula officinalis Extract) the flowers, flower
extract and flower oil (Calendula officinalis Flower Extract,
Calendula officinalis Flower Oil) and the seed oil (Calendula
officinalis Seed Oil) 28. Of the Calendula-derived ingredients,
the flower extracts are the most commonly used in
cosmetics and personal care products.
Wild Cherry Bark (Prunus serotina Bark)
Wild cherry bark is the bark of Prunus serotina29. Wild
Cherry Bark has properties that makes the hair smooth,
silky, and adds body to the hair. The dried stem bark of
Prunus serotina, collected in autumn in North America.
Used in lipsticks and cherry flavorings for food and
medicines 30. Also used as a sedative and expectorant
medicinally
Chicory (Cichorium intybus)
Chicory, Cichorium intybus, is somewhat
woody, perennial herbaceous plant usually with bright
blue flowers, rarely white or pink 31. It was believed that
the plant could purify the blood and liver, while others
have relied on the herb for its power to cure passions of the
heart. Chicory continues to be a popular herbal remedy due
to its healing effects on several ailments32. Chicory is taken
internally for loss of appetite, jaundice, gallstones, gout and
rheumatism. In addition, the leaves of chicory may also be
used as compresses to be applied externally to ease skin
inflammations and swellings. As a mild diuretic, it increases
the elimination of fluid from the body, leading to its use as a
treatment for rheumatism and gout. The root and the
leaves are appetizer, cholagogue, depurative, digestive,
diuretic, hypoglycaemic, laxative and tonic 33. It favors
blood circulation by making blood more fluid and allowing
it a better travel through vein and arteries.
Tulsi (Ocimum sanctum)
Holy basil, called Tulsi in India, is ubiquitous in Hindu
tradition. Perhaps its role as a healing herb was
instrumental in its "sacred" implication 34.
Ghritkumar (Aloe vera)
It is a most ingenious mixture of an antibiotic, an astringent
coagulating agent, a pain inhibitor and a growth stimulator
(also called a "wound hormone"), whose function is to
accelerate the healing of injured surfaces 35. It is used for
pain relief and healing of 'hemorrhoids, applied externally
and internally it‟s also used for sunburn, scratch and a
cleansing purge for the body or skin. It is an aid to growing
new tissue and alleviating the advance of skin cancer
caused by the sun 36.
Multani Mitts (Fullers Earth)
It is Mother Nature's own baby powder 37. Clay was one of
the earliest substances to be used as a beauty mask to draw
oils from the skin, natural moisturizers for hairs, teeth,
gums and hair, To remove pimple marks, treating sunburn,
helps unclog pores, to cleanse the skin of flakes and dirt 38.
Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla)
Matricaria chamomilla, known as scented mayweed
or German chamomile (also spelled camomile), is an annual
plant of the composite family Asteraceae 39. Chamomile is
also used cosmetically, primarily to make a rinse for blonde
hair and as a yellow dye for fabrics 40.
Raktachandan
This was another natural component available in attractive
color and hence was used as fresh, red bindi / tika (dot) on
the forehead 41.
Aloe vera
With the traits that prevent aging and regenerate growth of
cells this was used as an essential component to keep
oneself fit, protect the skin 42, prevents and heals skin
irritations 43.
Chandan and Vertiver (Usheer)
It was used as scrubs and face packs that were applied on
face and whole body to remove dead cells, regenerate
growth of new cells and give a young look 44.
Haldi (Turmeric)
It was used as a face pack along with usheer (vertiver) and
also as an antiseptic 45.
Medicinal Herbs used in Cosmetics
The medicinal herb mentioned in ayurveda by
experienced sages basically state that the function of
ayurvedic herbs is to purify blood and eliminate vitiated
3
Inventi Rapid: Cosmeceuticals Vol. 2012, Issue 4
[ISSN 0976-3864]
2012 pcc 077, CCC: $10 © Inventi Journals (P) Ltd
Published on Web 10/10/2012, www.inventi.in
REVIEW ARTICLE
doshas (vata, pitta, kapha) from the body as they are
mainly responsible for skin disorders and other diseases
46. Among the written information on ayurveda like in
Charakh Samhita, the sage Charakh stated numerous
medicinal plants in Varnya Kashaya. The herbs mentioned
can be used to obtain glowing complexion. Various herbs
for which description and usage can be found in ayurvedic
inscriptions are chandana, Nagkeshara, Padmak, Khus,
Yashtimadhu, Manjistha, Sariva, Payasya, Seta (shweta
durva), Lata (shyama durva) 47. There is also the mention
of various herbs from Kushthagna Mahakashaya that are
effective curatives for skin disorders are Khadira, Abhaya,
Amalaki, Haridra, Bhallataka, Saptaparna, Aragvadha,
Karavira, Vidanga, Jati. Like the notifications of charakh
and other sages, Sushrut said that Eladi Gana contains,-Ela,
tagar, kusstha, jatamansi, tvak, dhmamaka, patra,
nagkeshar, priyangu, harenuka, vyaghranakha, shukti,
stouneyaka, choraka, shriveshta, khus, goggol, sarjarasa,
turushka, kundaru, agaru, ushira, devdaru, keshara, and
padmakeshara 48. All these herbs can eliminate toxins from
the body, clear the complexion that leads to a glow on the
skin and alleviates puritus, kusstha and boils (Table 2 and
Table 3).
The Benefits of Herbs May include the Following
xEnhance physical and mental well-being
xStrengthen the immune system
xDetoxification
xAid in sleeping, digestion
xIncrease stamina and reduce fatigue etc.
Herbal products in cosmetics or herb in cosmetics can
also be referred as botanical origin products in cosmetics
49. According to the Drugs and Cosmetics Act 1940
cosmetics may be defined as, any substance intended to be
rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or otherwise applied to human
being for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness
50. Cosmeceuticals are the cosmetic products which contain
biologically active principles or ingredients of plant origin
having effect on user or they are combination product of
cosmetics and pharmaceuticals intended to enhance the
health and beauty of skin 51. Herbal cosmetics are defined
as the beauty products which posses desirable
physiological activity such as healing, smoothing
appearance, enhancing and conditioning properties
because of herbal ingredient 52 (Table 3).
Advantages of Herbal Medicine
xHerbal medicine have long history of use and better
patient tolerance as well as acceptance.
xMedicinal plants have a renewable source, which is our
only hope for sustainable supplies of cheaper medicines
for the world growing population 53.
xAvailability of medicinal plants is not a problem
especially in developing countries like India having rich
agro-climatic, cultural and ethnic biodiversity.
xThe cultivation and processing of medicinal herbs and
herbal products is environmental friendly 54.
xProlong and apparently uneventful use of herbal
medicines may offer testimony of their safety and efficacy.
xThroughout the world, herbal medicine has provided
many of the most potent medicines to the vast arsenal
of drugs available to modern medical science, both in
crude form and as a pure chemical upon which modern
medicines are structured 55.
Limitations of Herbal Medicines
Like any other branch of science and technology,
present scenario of herbal medicine has its own
limitations arising out of its own technical constituents.
The prominent limitations of herbal medicines can be
summarized as follow 56:
Dry Skin Treatment
Coconut oil
Coconut oil comes from the fruit or seed of the coconut
palm tree Cocos nucifera, family Arecaceae. The melting
point of coconut oil is 24 to 25°C (75-76°F) and thus it can
be used easily in both liquid and solid forms and is often
used in cooking and baking 57. Coconut oil is excellent as a
skin moisturizer and softener. A study shows that extra
virgin coconut oil is effective and safe when used as a
moisturizer, with absence of adverse reactions. (3) A study
found that coconut oil helped prevent protein loss from the
wet combing of hair when used for fourteen hours 58.
Sunflower Oil
It is the non-volatile oil expressed from sunflower seeds
obtained from Helianthus annuus, family Asteraceae.
Sunflower oil contains lecithin, tocopherols, carotenoids
and waxes. In cosmetics, it has smoothing properties and is
considered noncomedogenic 59.
Aloe
A native of southern Africa, the aloe vera plant has fleshy
spiny-toothed leaves and red or yellow flowers 60. It is an
ingredient in many cosmetics because it heals moisturizes,
and softens skin. Simply cut one of the aloe vera leaves to
easily extract the soothing gel.
Anti-Aging Treatment
Golden Root
Rhodiola rosea (Roseroot, Aaron's rod), is a plant in the
Crassulaceae family that grows in cold regions of the world.
The Rhodiola root has long been used in the traditional
medical systems in Europe and Asia to increase an
organism’s resistance to physicalstress , currently; it is
widely thought to have antioxidative properties 61.
Carrot
It is obtained from the plant Daucus carota belonging to
family Apiaceae. .It is a valuable herb since ages as it is rich
natural source of Vitamin A along with other essential
vitamins. Carrot seed oil is indicated for anti-aging,
revitalizing and rejuvenating 62. As it promotes the
formation of new cells and helps in reducing wrinkles. It
acts as Natural toner and rejuvenator for the skin.
Ginkgo
4
Inventi Rapid: Cosmeceuticals Vol. 2012, Issue 4
[ISSN 0976-3864]
2012 pcc 077, CCC: $10 © Inventi Journals (P) Ltd
Published on Web 10/10/2012, www.inventi.in
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Ginkgo comes from the ginkgo tree, Ginkgo biloba belongs
to family Ginkgoaceae, which grows to a huge size. It is best
known, as a circulatory tonic, in particular for
strengthening the tiny little capillaries to all the organs, but
especially to the brain63. The capillaries become more
flexible and as a result more oxygen is delivered to the
brain and eyes (to protect against degenerative eye
diseases like macular degeneration),so important as we
age. Ginkgo also protects the nervous system and fights
oxidation 64.
Dandruff Treatment
Ayurved has numerous natural medications wherein the
most common herbs include Neem, Kapoor (naphthalene),
and Henna, Hirda, Behada, and Amalaki, Magic nut,
Bringaraj, Rosary Pea, Sweet Flag, Cashmere tree and
Mandor 65.
Henna
Henna comes from the plant, Lawsonia inermis family
Lythraceae, which contain a dye molecule called Lawsone,
which when processed becomes Henna powder. Henna has
a natural affinity with the proteins in our hair, making it
able to “stain” the colour onto the hair shaft 66.
Skin Protection
Green Tea
Green tea is tea made solely with the leaves of Camellia
sinensis belonging to family Theaceae .Whether applied
topically or consumed as a beverage or dietary supplement,
green tea is a premiere skin protectant 67. It protects against
direct damage to the cell and moderates inflammation,
according to research from the Department of Dermatology,
Columbia University, New York. Studies suggest that the
catechins in green tea are some 20 times stronger in their
antioxidant powers than even vitamin E 68. Men, women and
children need to position this super shield on their side
against the ravaging effects of the sun 69.
Turmeric
Turmeric, Curcuma longa is a rhizomatous herbacessential
oilsus perennial plant of the ginger family Zingiberaceae
Turmeric is used in many celebrations of Hindus 70.
Especially in Hindu wedding brides would rub with
turmeric on their bodies for glowing look. New born babies
also rubbed with turmeric on their forehead for good luck.
Traditionally women rub turmeric on their cheeks to
produce a natural golden glow 71.
Hair Care
Amla
Amla is obtained from the plant Emblica Officinalis, Family
Euphorbiaceae72. Amla is rich in vitamin C, tannins and
minerals such as phosphorus, iron and calcium which
provides nutrition to hair and also causes darkening of
hair73. Hibiscus consists of calcium, phosphorus, iron,
vitamin B1, riboflavin, niacin and vitamin C, used to
stimulate thicker hair growth and prevents premature
graying of hair 74.
Almond Oil
The almond oil is obtained from Prunus dulcis. The almond
oil basically contains about 78% of this fat. This oil contains
very small amounts of super-unsaturated Omega-3
essential fatty acids 75. It proves to be very nourishing, and
softens and strengthens the hair 76. The almond oil also
proves to be a very good cleansing agent. Almond oil has
been used for many centuries, even before it's spread as a
commercial agro-product 77.
CONCLUSION
The knowledge of medicinal plants used by the people of
seems to be well known to its culture and tradition 78. In
the present study we identified many plants used by the
people to cure dermatological disorders and as cosmetics
79. Some of the plants were found to have dual use, both as
curative and cosmetic. Quality control test must be carried
out for herbal cosmetics. It is assumed to be safe for longer
periods of time 80.
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[ISSN 0976-3864]
2012 pcc 077, CCC: $10 © Inventi Journals (P) Ltd
Published on Web 10/10/2012, www.inventi.in
REVIEW ARTICLE
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6
Inventi Rapid: Cosmeceuticals Vol. 2012, Issue 4
[ISSN 0976-3864]
2012 pcc 077, CCC: $10 © Inventi Journals (P) Ltd
Published on Web 10/10/2012, www.inventi.in
REVIEW ARTICLE
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Cite this article as: Kumar Sumit, Swarankar Vivek,
Sharma Sujata, Baldi Ashish. Herbal Cosmetics: Used for
Skin and Hair. Inventi Rapid: Cosmeceuticals, 2012(4): 1-
7, 2012.
7
