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The cosmeceutical realm

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Abstract

The cosmeceutical realm is composed of functional cosmetics designed to adorn face and body without changing the structure of the human form. Although this may seem confusing, indeed cosmeceuticals have never been well defined. Cosmeceuticals developed for facial application typically claim to induce more even skin tone, improve skin texture, increase skin radiance, decrease the appearance of skin wrinkling, and provide antiaging benefits. Nondrug active ingredients are usually incorporated into moisturizing vehicles designed to accomplish the aforementioned claims. There is no doubt that cosmeceuticals represent the most rapidly expanding frontier in dermatology.

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... Cosmeceutical ingredients are active compounds utilized to enhance the appearance and health of the human body, representing a hybrid category positioned between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Cosmeceutical formulations aim to improve skin health and beauty [1][2][3]. They combine cosmetic products with bioactive molecules, offering medicinal or drug-like applications to improve skin health and texture [4,5]. ...
... However, carrageenin is unstable and difficult to extract; thus, it binds to one or more cations to form different carrageenan salts (carrageenans), which constitute approximately 30% to 75% of the seaweed's dry weight. These linear sulfated polygalactans are composed of alternating residues of galactose linked by (1)(2)(3) and (1)(2)(3)(4) bonds [218]. From a commercial perspective and according to several regulatory authorities (e.g., FDA, EFSA), carrageenan has been classified as safe based on minimal or no adverse physiological impacts observed in toxicological evaluations. ...
... However, carrageenin is unstable and difficult to extract; thus, it binds to one or more cations to form different carrageenan salts (carrageenans), which constitute approximately 30% to 75% of the seaweed's dry weight. These linear sulfated polygalactans are composed of alternating residues of galactose linked by (1)(2)(3) and (1)(2)(3)(4) bonds [218]. From a commercial perspective and according to several regulatory authorities (e.g., FDA, EFSA), carrageenan has been classified as safe based on minimal or no adverse physiological impacts observed in toxicological evaluations. ...
Article
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The term 'cosmeceutical' refers to cosmetic products that offer medicinal or drug-like benefits. Marine algae are rich sources of bioactive compounds, particularly carbohydrates and peptides, which have gained attention for their potential in cosmeceuticals. These compounds are abundant, safe, and have minimal cytotoxicity effects. They offer various benefits to the skin, including addressing rashes, pigmentation, aging, and cancer. Additionally, they exhibit properties such as antimicrobial, skin-whitening, anti-aging, antioxidant, and anti-melanogenic effects. This review surveys the literature on the cosmeceutical potentials of algae-derived compounds, focusing on their roles in skin whitening, anti-aging, anticancer, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial applications. The discussion also includes current challenges and future opportunities for using algae for cosmeceutical purposes.
... Homogeneity was also good for both creams (EM and PL), with no signs of phase separation. Organoleptic characteristics were shown in Table 3. Physico-chemical characteristics of the investigated creams pH values of the investigated creams ranged within the recommended pH values for products intended for use on the skin [29,30] immediately after cream preparation and during the entire test period (180 days) ( [3,14]. PL had a lower electrical conductivity compared to EM, during entire study period (P < 0.05). ...
... pH values of the skin remained almost the same after application of investigated creams under occlusion. EM caused slightly lower pH value of the skin after occlusion, considering that the AHAs from EW were more acidic substances, but the pH value still remained within the physiologically pH values of the healthy skin [29,30]. In addition, the absence of significant changes in the EI parameter (compared to baseline) after the application of EM and both controls under occlusion was confirmed in the experiment ( Table 6). ...
... Obtained results of increase in skin hydration, decrease in TEWL, maintenance of skin pH values and decrease in EI after application of investigated creams under occlusion on healthy female volunteers skin indicated that application of EM under occlusion does not lead to skin irritation. Bearing in mind that the skin irritation is generally accompanied by a significant increase in EI parameter, the almost unchanged values for it obtained in the performed study might indicate a low irritation potential of cosmetic cream EM [3,7,24,29,31]. ...
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Objective The aim of this study was in vitro and in vivo characterization of cosmetic cream with 6% of wild apple fruit water extract, containing 3.5% of alpha‐hydroxyacids‐AHAs and polyphenolic compounds, stabilized by biodegradable alkyl‐polyglucoside emulsifiers. Methods In vitro characterization of cream included organoleptic and physico‐chemical (pH values and electrical conductivity) analysis, antioxidant activity‐AA estimation (using DPPH test) during 180 days of storage at 22±2°C and determination of cosmetic active substances content‐AHAs (using HPLC analysis). In vivo estimation of skin irritation potential after creams application under occlusion during 24h was investigated employing the biophysical methods on 12 healthy volunteers; hydration efficiency, transepidermal water loss‐TEWL, skin pH, erythema‐EI and melanin index‐MI on 10 healthy volunteers after 28 days of cream application and bleaching efficiency on 10 healthy volunteers after 7 days of cream application after artificially induced skin hyperpigmentation. Results Investigated cosmetic cream was pale beige color, odorless, semi‐solid consistency and homogeneous, with pH values of 6.53±0.14, electrical conductivity above 50 μS/cm and AA of 24.96%RSC after preparation and these characteristics were stable during investigated period. In vivo measurements revealed absence of skin irritation after cream application under occlusion, which was part of it's safety profile. Increase of skin hydration after 14 days of cream application was 17.28±12.23 and after 28 days 21.19±7.59. In addition, in performed experiment TEWL and skin pH values during cream application remained unchanged. Cream application after artificial hyperpigmentation induced decrease of MI (∆MI after 7 days was ‐45.30±18.55) Conclusion Formulated cosmetic cream with 6% of standardized wild apple fruit water extract and stabilized by biodegradable alkyl‐polyglucoside emulsifiers demonstrated good stability, acceptable level of in vitro antioxidant activity, absence of skin irritation after cream application under occlusion and positive effects of cream on human skin after application (hydrating and bleaching effects). All mentioned properties make the cream suitable for possible usage as cosmetic product for preventing the skin damages caused by oxidative stress, for moisturizing the dry skin and bleaching of skin hyperpigmentation. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.
... A dry extract of Aloe ferrox leaves may contain up to 25% aloesin [63]. This molecule of human, animal, or fungal origin acts as a competitive inhibitor of tyrosinase [64]. Efficacy is proportional to the concentration used [65]. ...
... It is formed by fermentation by various species of fungi such as Aspergillus, Penicillium, and others. This molecule of human, animal, or fungal origin acts as a competitive inhibitor of tyrosinase [64]. Efficacy is proportional to the concentration used [65]. ...
Article
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Depigmentation and skin lightening products, which have been in use for ages in Asian countries where skin whiteness is a major esthetic criterion, are now also highly valued by Western populations, who expose themselves excessively to the sun and develop skin spots as a consequence. After discussing the various possible mechanisms of depigmentation, the different molecules that can be used as well as the status of the products containing them will now be presented. Hydroquinone and derivatives thereof, retinoids, alpha-and beta-hydroxy acids, ascorbic acid, divalent ion chelators, kojic acid, azelaic acid, as well as diverse herbal extracts are described in terms of their efficacy and safety. Since a genuine effect (without toxic effects) is difficult to obtain, prevention by using sunscreen products is always preferable.
... The term "cosmeceutical" describes a product that exerts both cosmetic and pharmaceutical properties (Carpio et al. 2021), and whose use is oriented to pharmaceutical therapeutic benefits on the skin (Pandey et al. 2019). Draelos (2008) defines a cosmeceutical as a "functional cosmetics designed to adorn the face and body without changing the structure of the human form". These products contain natural bioactive components, vitamins, and enzymes, that can derive from plants, marine organisms, and microorganisms (Alves et al. 2020), and have a low toxicity profile. ...
Article
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Main conclusion This review highlights the potential of aromatic plants as natural antioxidants in cosmeceuticals to combat skin aging and promote health and rejuvenation. Abstract Aromatic plant extracts, essential oils, or their phytoconstituents have a long history of use in skincare, dating back centuries. Currently, these plant-based sources are extensively researched and utilized in the cosmeceutical industry to formulate products that enhance skin health and promote a youthful appearance. These plants’ diverse bioactivities and sensory properties make them ideal ingredients for developing anti-aging agents recommended for maintaining healthy skin through self-care routines, offering a natural alternative to synthetic products. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) accumulation in the dermis, attributed to intrinsic and extrinsic aging factors, particularly prolonged sun exposure, is identified as the primary cause of skin aging. Plant extracts enriched with antioxidant compounds including flavonoids, phenolics, tannins, stilbenes, terpenes, and steroids, are fundamental to counteract ROS-induced oxidative stress. Noteworthy effects observed from the use of these natural sources include photoprotective, senolytic, anti-inflammatory, anti-wrinkle, anti-acne, and anti-tyrosinase activities, encompassing benefits like photoprotection, wound healing, skin whitening, anti-pigmentation, tissue regeneration, among others. This review highlights several globally distributed aromatic plant species renowned for their benefits for skin, including Foeniculum vulgare Mill. (Apiaceae), Calendula officinalis L. and Matricaria chamomilla L. (Asteraceae), Thymus vulgaris L. (Lamiaceae), Litsea cubeba (Lour.) Pers. (Lauraceae), Althaea officinalis L. (Malvaceae), Malaleuca alternifolia (Maiden y Betche) Cheel (Myrtaceae), Cymbopogon citratus (DC.) Stapf (Poaceae), Rubus idaeus L. (Rosaceae), and Citrus sinensis L. Osbeck (Rutaceae), emphasizing their potential in skincare formulations and their role in promoting health and rejuvenation.
... The rising popularity of natural cosmetics is underpinned by a growing environmental and societal consciousness, as consumers recognize the sustainability and ethical considerations inherent in such products [8]. The rise of cosmeceuticals, blending cosmetics with pharmaceuticals, emphasizes skincare products providing therapeutic benefits beyond superficial enhancement [9]. Integrating scientific research and clinical validation, cosmeceuticals enhance appearance and promote skin health and wellness. ...
Article
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Amidst the ever-evolving landscape of cosmetics, algae and their derived products have captured substantial worldwide interest, heralding a new era of innovation and sustainability in beauty products. Cosmetic formulations are witnessing an escalating incorporation of extracts from algal biomass owing to the diverse metabolites making them ideal for studying physiologically active components with unique biochemical properties. The concept of algal biorefinery plays a pivotal role in this context, as it integrates processes to convert algal biomass into a spectrum of valuable products, maximizing resource efficiency and sustainability. Research has proven that the rich and diverse pool of bioactive compounds in algae holds promise for novel nutraceutical, pharmaceutical, and cosmeceutical products. In marine brown algae, compounds like fucoxanthin, polysaccharides, MAAs, and phlorotannins have a variety of functions to combat ultraviolet radiation and protect human skin. Phlorotannins, for instance, contribute to sunscreen and antioxidant properties. The sea environment, teeming with physiologically essential substances, provides an array of cosmeceutical ingredients. Algae also house nutraceutical compounds like polyphenols, carotenoids, fucoidan, alginate, peptides, terpenoids, and polyunsaturated fatty acids, engaging in various biological activities. Algal compounds are emerging as viable alternatives, showcasing beneficial effects even with prolonged use and diverse algae species find widespread application in addressing skin disorders, serving as moisturizers, texture enhancers, sunscreens, and anti-wrinkling agents. This review delves into the bioactive components sourced from algae, especially seaweed and diatoms, unveiling their potential in anti-aging, photo-protection, and skin whitening. The discourse encompasses current applications, challenges, and prospects, highlighting the role of algal biorefinery in providing a sustainable and innovative future for skincare solutions.
... Cosmeceuticals can be replaced by a variety of names, including dermaceuticals, active cosmetics, nutricosmetics, performance cosmetics, and functional cosmetics. In general, cosmeceuticals fall into the following categories: [11][12][13][14][15] ➢ Skin care products: moisturizers, face masks, anti-aging creams, and lotions. ➢ Hair cosmeceutical products: lotions and gels, shampoos, growth enhancers and dyes, and conditioners. ...
Article
Due to their great biocompatibility, biodegradability, andminimal immunogenicity, liposomes are now the most widelyemployed nanocarriers for a variety of hydrophobic and hydrophiliccompounds that may be biologically active. Additionally, liposomesdemonstrated improved drug solubility and regulated distribution.They also showed the ability to modify the surface of drugs fortargeted, extended, and sustained release. Liposomes can be thoughtof as having developed from traditional, long-circulating, targeted,and immunological liposomes to stimuli-responsive and activelytargeted liposomes based on their composition. More liposomes haveadvanced stages in clinical trials, and many liposomal-based drugdelivery systems are currently clinically licensed totreat severaldisorders, including cancer, fungal infections, and viral infections.This review discusses the composition, preparationprocedures, andclinical uses of liposomes.
... Subsequently, employ a toner to restore your skin's pH balance, a critical preparatory step. Here's where cosmeceuticals enter the stage, as you apply your chosen product, targeting unique concerns such as fine lines, dark spots, or acne, based on the advice of skincare professionals [21]. Concluding your regimen, remember to nourish and safeguard your skin by applying a suitable moisturizer to maintain hydration and offer protection against environmental stressors. ...
Article
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Cosmeceuticals, a fusion of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, have emerged as powerful tools in addressing a myriad of skin concerns, ranging from combating signs of aging to managing acne. These advanced skincare products are distinguished by their enriched formulations, featuring active ingredients that go beyond traditional cosmetic offerings. The key to unlocking their full potential lies in a nuanced understanding of individual skin types and specific needs. One of the primary advantages of cosmeceuticals is their ability to deliver tailored solutions for diverse skincare issues. Whether someone is seeking to diminish fine lines and wrinkles, control acne breakouts, or address hyperpigmentation, these products are designed to provide targeted benefits. The incorporation of potent ingredients, such as retinoids, hyaluronic acid, and antioxidants, allows for a more sophisticated and effective approach to skincare. To harness the maximum benefits of cosmeceuticals, it is crucial to comprehend the unique characteristics of one's skin. Different skin types, whether oily, dry, sensitive, or combination, necessitate specific formulations to achieve optimal results. Tailoring the skincare routine to individual needs ensures that active ingredients address concerns without causing unnecessary irritation or imbalance. Moreover, the synergy between cosmeceuticals and professional cosmetic treatments can elevate skincare outcomes. Combining the benefits of at-home products with in-office procedures, such as chemical peels or laser treatments, can enhance and prolong the effectiveness of the overall skincare regimen. Professional guidance becomes invaluable in navigating the intricate landscape of cosmeceuticals, helping individuals customize their routines for optimal results. However, the transformative potential of cosmeceuticals comes with a responsibility for cautious application. Ingredient compatibility is a critical consideration to avoid adverse reactions and maximize efficacy.
... 13 Particularly, in recent years the cosmetic industry showed the enhanced interest toward peptides application as active ingredients in cosmeceuticals. 10,14 In fact, the Global Wellness Institute statistics from 2019 confirmed that the most relevant segment of the wellness economy stands for "Personal care, beauty & anti-aging" products. ...
Thesis
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Cosmeceuticals, i.e., cosmetic products with active ingredients possessing the scientifically proven and thoroughly evaluated biological activity, are becoming progressively more common on the market. Consumer awareness has prompted manufacturers to create formulas with a valuable composition, good permeability through the skin, and prolonged stability. Peptides, short chains of amino acids, are good candidates for active ingredients. Due to the ease of their modification, uncomplicated synthesis, and the possibility of giving them the desired properties, they are becoming frequent ingredients in cosmeceuticals. This doctoral dissertation discusses two enzymes contributing to the appearance of signs of skin aging – elastase, responsible for the breakdown of collagen fibers, and tyrosinase – directly affecting the synthesis of melanin and skin discoloration. Design, synthesis, biological investigation, and molecular modeling of peptides and their conjugates with small organic molecules were discussed. In vitro studies of these compounds indicated inhibitors of the abovementioned enzymes, some of them with micromolar activity. The correlation between the structure of obtained compounds and their activity was discussed, and special attention was paid to the role of peptide conjugates in the design of biologically active compounds.
... In recent years, there has been a significant shift in consumer preferences towards natural skin care products, driven by concerns over the potential toxicity associated with synthetic formulations [1,2]. Consequently, industries have increasingly turned to natural bioactive ingredients derived from a wide range of natural resources [3,4]. Marine macroalgae have emerged as a popular choice in the field of cosmeceutical research, owing to their abundant reserves of bioactive compounds that offer notable skin benefits without inducing harmful effects on human health, such as cytotoxicity, reproductive toxicity, genotoxicity, mutagenicity, or carcinogenicity [5,6]. ...
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Marine macroalgae have garnered significant attention in the field of cosmeceutical research due to their rich abundance of bioactive compounds. These compounds offer remarkable skin benefits without inducing any adverse effects on human health, such as cytotoxicity, reproductive toxicity, genotoxicity, mutagenicity, or carcinogenicity. Among the various bioactive compounds found in brown algae, phenolic compounds exhibit diverse chemical structures and are present in high concentrations. In addition to phenolic compounds, brown algae also contain terpenoids, bro-mophenols, mycosporine amino acids (MAAs), and flavonoids, with the well-studied poly-phenol compound, phlorotannin, being particularly prominent. Marine macroalgae further possess an array of pigments derived from their natural pigmentation, including chlorophylls, carotenoids (such as fucoxanthin and β-carotene), phycobiliproteins (such as phycoerythrin and phycocyanin), and melanin. These pigments have been extensively investigated for their potential cos-meceutical applications. The phenolic compounds and pigments derived from marine macroalgae have been thoroughly studied for their beneficial effects on the skin, including skin whitening, moisturizing, photoprotection, anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, anti-melanogenic, and anti-oxidant properties. This comprehensive review aims to explore the extraction, characterization, and skin cosmetic effects of phenolic compounds and pigments derived from marine macroalgae, as documented in the existing literature, thereby enhancing our understanding of their therapeutic potential.
... The effects of such formulations include the control of acne, combatting aging, protection from solar rays, moisturizing, antioxidant activity, and medicinal activity [10]. Biosurfactants can benefit the body either directly or indirectly, serving as carriers and enhancers of cosmeceutical ingredients. ...
... The effects of such formulations include the control of acne, combatting aging, protection from solar rays, moisturizing, antioxidant activity, and medicinal activity [10]. Biosurfactants can benefit the body either directly or indirectly, serving as carriers and enhancers of cosmeceutical ingredients. ...
... Cosmeceutical ingredients are active compounds that are used to improve the appearance of the human body and represent a new category of preparations placed between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Cosmeceutical formulations intend the improvements of skin health and beauty [1][2][3]. Globally, the cosmeceutical sector is growing each year due to increasing modern beauty trends. To meet consumer demand, industries are moving towards the excessive use of synthetic cosmetic ingredients in formulations listed as Hydroquinone (HQ), Phthalates, Para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), Benzophenones, Butylated Hydroxyanisole (BHA), Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT), and Dibenzoylmethane (DBM). ...
Article
Full-text available
Marine macroalgae have an interesting profile of bioactive compounds and have gained tremendous attention in cosmeceuticals with negligible toxicity effects (cytotoxicity, reproductive toxicity, genotoxicity, mutagenicity, carcinogenicity, etc.) on humans and exhibit strong benefits for the skin. Among the diversified compounds, phenolic compounds are the group of phytochemicals found in high amounts with great structural diversity. Phlorotannin is the most studied polyphenol compound in brown algae, but besides there are some other phenolic compounds observed and studied in macroalgae such as terpenoids, bromophenols, mycosporine amino acids (MAAs), and flavonoids. These compounds are already characterized and studied for their full range of cosmeceutical benefits such as skin whitening, moisturizing, photoprotection, antiaging, antiwrinkle, anti-melanogenic, and antioxidant activities as well as in the treatment of pruritus (caused by acne, eczema, dermatitis, hives, psoriasis), photoaging, and skin pigmentation disorders (hypopigmentation due to the absence of melanocytes and hyperpigmentation caused by skin irritation or metabolic disorders). This review study mainly focuses on marine algae-derived phenolic compounds and their extraction, characterization, and skin cosmetic benefits described in the literature. The present study aims to provide a detailed insight into the phenolic compounds in marine algae.
... Los productos o ingredientes cosmecéuticos tienen la capacidad de proporcionar no solamente beneficios para el cuidado de la piel, sino que pueden presentar potenciales indicaciones farmacéuticas, las cuales dependen de la presencia de un activo natural y de su accesibilidad al blanco terapéutico [27]. En ese contexto, la presente investigación se encaminó, en primera instancia, a la obtención mediante SFS del neuropéptido antiedad acetilhexapéptido-3, cuya secuencia corresponde a Ac-EEMQRR-NH 2 . ...
Article
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Introducción: Actualmente los péptidos sintéticos se han constituido en una novedosa alternativa para el tratamiento de la piel envejecida. Acetilhexapéptido-3 (Ac-EEMQRR-NH2) ha sido utilizado para inducir reducción de líneas de expresión de manera análoga a la toxina botulínica, pero sin efectos tóxicos. Objetivo: Sintetizar el acetilhexapéptido-3 y desarrollar un sistema liposomal para su encapsulación y favorecer su paso a través de una membrana modelo. Metodología: El péptido fue obtenido mediante síntesis en fase sólida (SFS) empleando la estrategia Fmoc/tBu, fue purificado y plenamente caracterizado. El sistema liposomal con acetilhexapéptido-3 encapsulado fue desarrollado mediante la formación de una emulsión con posterior inversión de fase por evaporación del solvente orgánico. Los sistemas fueron caracterizados en su tamaño, potencial zeta, eficiencia de encapsulación del neuropéptido y de manera preliminar se realizó un estudio de permeabilidad ex vivo. Resultados: Es posible sintetizar péptidos cortos con alto grado de pureza y buen rendimiento, utilizando la metodología de SFS Fmoc/tBu. De acuerdo con la caracterización, el sistema liposomal adelantado sugiere una buena estrategia para la encapsulación del acetilhexapéptido-3 y su potencial aplicación en el desarrollo un novedoso producto cosmecéutico.
... Therefore, collagen degradation inhibitors and collagen biosynthesis enhancers are highly requested and broadly investigated in the recent years. Among other classes of active ingredients, peptides play an important role in these fields, due to their high specificity, low toxicity, relatively easy synthesis, and applicability as carriers for other molecules [50]. However, peptides in some cases get degraded very quickly on the skin surface, or are not able to penetrate sufficiently into the skin layers [51]. ...
Article
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Collagen fibres degradation is a complex process involving a variety of enzymes. Fibrillar collagens, namely type I, II, and III, are the most widely spread collagens in human body, e.g., they are responsible for tissue fibrillar structure and skin elasticity. Nevertheless, the hyperactivity of fibrotic process and collagen accumulation results with joints, bone, heart, lungs, kidneys or liver fibroses. Per contra, dysfunctional collagen turnover and its increased degradation leads to wound healing disruption, skin photoaging, and loss of firmness and elasticity. In this review we described the main enzymes participating in collagen degradation pathway, paying particular attention to enzymes degrading fibrillar collagen. Therefore, collagenases (MMP-1, -8, and -13), elastases, and cathepsins, together with their peptide and peptidomimetic inhibitors, are reviewed. This information, related to the design and synthesis of new inhibitors based on peptide structure, can be relevant for future research in the fields of chemistry, biology, medicine, and cosmeceuticals.
... Depigmentasyon ürünlerinde %3 konsantrasyonda kullanılan arbutinVacciniumvitisidaeabitkisindenelde edilen glukonopiranozittir. Mesajcı RNA (mRNA) ekspresyonunu etkilemeden tirozinaz etkinliğini azaltır ve melanozom olgunlaşmasını inhibe eder (Draelos, 2008). ...
Chapter
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Mesleki etik , sağlık çalışanının mesleki uygulamalar sırasında nelere dikkat etmesi gerektiğine, hangi durumlarda nasıl davranılacağına dair yol gösterici olur. Mesleki açıdan etik ilkelere ve kodlara uygun davranmak ,bireylerin sağlığını geliştirmek ve korumak; sağlık çalışanlarının da iş doyumunu, motivasyonunu, kararlılığını, mesleki bütünlüğünü, bulunduğu pozisyonun güçlendirilmesini etkiler. Sağlık çalışanlarının sadece yeterli bilgiye sahip olmaları değil ,aynı zamanda mesleki uygulamalar sırasında da içinde bulunduğu duruma göre etik karar verebilmesi gerekir. Meslek Yüksekokulunda okuyan sağlık bölümü öğrencilerinin etik değerlerle ilgili görüşlerini araştırmak,davranışlarını değerlendirmek ve farkındalıklarını arttırmak amacıyla 17 soruluk bir anket hazırlanmış ve 220 kişiye uygulanmıştır.Anket sorularının frekansları değerlendirilerek yüzdelik oranları çıkartılmış ve sonuçlar, grafiklerle verilmiştir. Bu sonuçlara göre; ankete katılanların %86,9’unu 17-24 yaş aralığı oluşturmaktadır. %64,9’u kadın , %35,1 ‘i ise erkek öğrencilerden oluşmaktadır.Çalışmaya katılan öğrencilerin %60,4 ‘ü etik eğitim almadıklarından etik ikilemle karşılaştıklarında insiyatif kullanmak yerine bir üst yöneticiye ya da sorumlularına danışmayı tercih etmiştir. Çalışmamızda sağlık bölümü öğrencilerinin etik bilgilerinin ve etik değerlerle ilgili görüşlerinin yetersiz olduğu saptanmıştır. Bu sonuçlar doğrultusunda , sağlık bölümü öğrencilerinin sağlık sektöründe çalışmaya başladıklarında bilgi ve farkındalıklarını arttırmak ,etik ikilemle karşılaştıklarında ise neler yapabileceklerinin bilincinde olmaları için etik dersi almaları gerektiği sonucuna varılmıştır.
... Peptides have a wide range of functions, which underpins a large number of potential applications, ranging from active pharmaceutical ingredients to innovative nanomaterials. In particular, the cosmetic industry showed in recent years an increased interest toward the use of peptides as cosmeceutical ingredients, [1] boosting a field which growth has been constant for many years. In fact, in 2019 the Global Wellness Institute produced global statistics for the wellness economy confirming that, as far as expenditure on wellness is concerned, the most relevant sector is 'Personal care, beauty and anti-aging' products. ...
Article
Cosmeceutical field, which merges cosmetics and pharmaceuticals , is nowadays a highly investigated research area, because a scientific demonstration of the claimed bioactivity of new cosmeceutical ingredients is increasingly requested. In fact, an aspect differentiating traditional cosmetics from cosmeceuticals is the identification and characterization of the active ingredients and demonstrating its efficacy in the claimed activity. An interesting group of bioactive cosmeceutical ingredients are peptides, which meets most of the requirements presented by the cosmeceutical industry when composing new formulas. In this context, beside bioactivity, two additional aspects have been recently considered, when dealing with peptides as cosmeceutical ingredients: bioavailability and stability. We describe herein novel methods applied in order to enhance peptides skin‑penetration and stability, reviewing both scientific papers and patents, issued in the cosmeceutical arena.
... 17 Some cosmeceuticals are also claimed to provide other beneficial effects such as more even skin tone, improved skin texture, increased skin radiance, decreased appearance of skin wrinkling, and enhanced anti-aging skin. 18 Desirable features of cosmeceutical agents are their efficacy, safety, formulation stability, novelty, and metabolism within skin. 14 While choosing a cosmeceutical, it is important to identify a patient's problems and resolve them with appropriate cosmeceutical product. ...
Article
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p class="abstract">In clinical practice, the ‘sensitive skin’ phenomenon, encompassing a wide range of signs and symptoms, is majorly a self-diagnosed condition. Various articles have given perspective on the heterogeneous concept of sensitive skin in varied ways. Cosmeceuticals, commonly used for sensitive skin, contain biologically active ingredients that deliver multifunctional skin benefits. Since no guidelines have been formulated for the use of cosmeceutical products in the management of sensitive skin, an individualized skin care regimen is usually adopted. Also, cosmeceutical products have been demonstrated to play a crucial role as add-on therapy in the management of dermatological disorders. However, there exists uncertainty about sensitive skin manifestation and well-defined use of cosmeceuticals for sensitive skin. This paper provides a consensus clinical viewpoint of expert clinicians, which will help clear the pathway for effective identification and management of sensitive skin using cosmeceuticals.</p
... Depigmentasyon ürünlerinde %3 konsantrasyonda kullanılan arbutinVacciniumvitisidaeabitkisindenelde edilen glukonopiranozittir. Mesajcı RNA (mRNA) ekspresyonunu etkilemeden tirozinaz etkinliğini azaltır ve melanozom olgunlaşmasını inhibe eder (Draelos, 2008). ...
Chapter
EROZYON NEDENİYLE DİŞ SERT DOKULARINDA OLUŞAN DEMİNERALİZASYONU DEĞERLENDİRME YÖNTEMLERİ
... The highly efficient catalytic ability of enzymes makes them a preferred candidate in the food industry and attracts researchers in development of enzymatic bioprocess for functional food development [10]. These enzymes provide solubility, stability, and enhanced bioavailability to bioactive compounds apart from disabling antinutritional properties [11]. Commercial enzymes from different sources have been applied in several bioprocesses for (1) production of bioactive compounds by hydrolysis or transformation [7,12] and (2) reduction of antinutritional factors [13À15]. ...
... auch die Alterung der Haut thematisiert werden. UV-Strahlung führt nachweislich zu einer vorzeitigen Alterung der Haut mit Falten, Pigmentflecken und ähnlichem. (Han et al. 2014) Eine Reduktion der Anzahl an Solarienbesuchen konnte durch dieseMaßnahme gezeigt werden und auch bei Sonnencremes wird der "Anti-Aging"-Effekt bereits zur Werbung genutzt.(Draelos 2008;Hillhouse and Turrisi 2002) Auch Bräunungscremes und Selbstbräuner sind eine risikofreie Methode das Problem, welches das bestehende Schönheitsideal mit sich bringt, zu umgehen.Leider konnte gezeigt werden, dass diese Kosmetikartikel insgesamt von sehr wenigen genutzt werden. Dies liegt unter anderem daran, dass die Produkte kein gutes o ...
Thesis
Hintergrund und Ziele: Die Inzidenz des Malignen Melanoms und des nicht-melanozytären Hautkrebs steigt in Deutschland seit Jahren. Der entscheidende beeinflussbare Risikofaktor, der zur Entstehung von Hautkrebs beiträgt, ist die Exposition gegenüber ultravioletter Strahlung durch Sonne und Solarien. Durch die Erfassung des individuellen Sonnen- und Sonnenschutzverhalten, der eigenen Einstellung zum Schönheitsideal „gebräunte Haut“, des Wissens zu den Hautkrebsrisikofaktoren und der Auswirkung auf die Stimmung sowie der anschließenden Analyse der Zusammenhänge dieser Ergebnisse soll herausgefunden werden, wodurch das Risiko- und Schutzverhalten bedingt ist. So kann die Wissensbasis für künftige Präventionsprogramme vergrößert werden. Methodik: Die FRANCIS-Studie ist eine im Sommer 2016 in allen Nürnberger Kindergärten durchgeführte epidemiologische Querschnittsstudie. Mittels eigenhändig auszufüllendem Elternfragebogen wurde unter anderem der Sonnenschutz des Kindes, das eigene Verhalten in Bezug zu Sonne und Solarien, das Wissen zu Hautkrebsrisikofaktoren, die Einstellung zu Sonne und gebräunter Haut, eine bisherige Teilnahme am Hautkrebsscreening und das Vorhandensein von Hautkrebsfällen im Umfeld erfragt. Die Fragen, die das Verhalten, das Wissen und die Einstellungen der Erwachsenen erfassen, wurden für diese Arbeit ausgewählt. Um eine Verzerrung durch Geschlecht und Alter zu vermeiden erfolgte ausschließlich die Auswertung der Fragebögen, die durch Mütter der Kindergartenkinder ausgefüllt wurden. Nach einer deskriptiven Darstellung der Ergebnisse erfolgte mit Hilfe verschiedener statistischer Tests eine Überprüfung auf Zusammenhänge zwischen den Antworten. Ergebnisse: 8531 Fragebögen wurden ausgegeben, die Rücklaufzahl betrug 3220. Bei 85% davon handelte es sich bei der ausfüllenden Person um die Mutter des Kindergartenkindes, mit einem durchschnittlichen Alter von 35,9 Jahren. Als vorherrschendes Schönheitsideal zeigte sich gebräunte Haut. 70% der Frauen fühlen sich gebräunt schöner und 72% der Frauen empfinden gebräunte Haut als attraktiv. Dass sich Sonne gut anfühlt bestätigten 88% der Teilnehmerinnen. Von den Hautkrebsrisikofaktoren wurde die „kurze, intensive Sonneneinstrahlung“ am seltensten (von 32 % der Mütter) als solcher erkannt. 48% der Frauen sonnen sich selbst, um braun zu werden und 50% tragen an sonnigen Tagen zum Schutz ihres Kopfes nur eine Sonnenbrille. Mit Hilfe statistischer Tests konnte gezeigt werden, dass ein risikoreicheres Sonnenverhalten, das sich durch Sonnen, um braun zu werden, Solariennutzung und das seltenere Tragen von Kopfbedeckung und Sonnenbrille manifestiert, mit einem geringeren Wissen über die Hautkrebsrisikofaktoren und einem geringeren Bildungsabschluss zusammenhängt. Des Weiteren ist auch das Ideal von gebräunter Haut und das angenehme Gefühl, das durch Sonne entsteht, mit einem risikoreicheren Verhalten assoziiert. Schlussfolgerungen: Insgesamt konnte gezeigt werden, dass das Sonnen- und Schutzverhalten noch verbesserungswürdig ist. In den Gruppen mit höheren Bildungsabschlüssen überwiegt das Schönheitsideal gegenüber dem Wissen bei der Entstehung des risikoreichen Verhaltens. Da das Schönheitsideal maßgeblich durch die Medien beeinflusst wird, sollten diese dazu angehalten werden, ein anderes Schönheitsideal zu verbreiten und auch auf negative Folgen wie vorzeitige Hautalterung einzugehen. Des Weiteren führt in allen Gruppen das gute Gefühl, das Sonne entstehen lässt, dazu, sich häufiger ungeschützt UV-Strahlung auszusetzen. Hier kann nur dazu motiviert werden, die Sonne in Zukunft ausreichend geschützt zu genießen und die Dauer in der Sonne auf ein Minimum zu reduzieren. Auch das Wissen über die Hautkrebsrisikofaktoren spielt weiterhin eine Rolle bei der Entstehung des Sonnen- und Schutzverhaltens. Wissenslücken bestehen insbesondere bei jungen Personengruppen und Müttern mit niedrigem Bildungsabschluss oder Migrationshintergrund. Informationen könnten beispielsweise über die Schulen und in verschiedenen Sprachen verbreitet werden.
... Products, either in the form of creams or lotions, and including biologically active compounds with medical drug-like benefits (Epstein, 2009;Taofiq et al., 2016a), are termed "cosmeceuticals". This concept that gained importance in the last couple of years has rapidly expanded driven by the enormous availability of novel ingredients of natural origin (Draelos, 2008). Bioactive extracts from medicinal plants, microbial metabolites, mushrooms and algae metabolites have been reported to present remarkable bioactive properties (e.g. ...
Article
Mushrooms are important sources of natural bioactive compounds that are increasingly used as cosmeceutical ingredients. In this context, ethanolic extracts were prepared from Ganoderma lucidum and Pleurotus ostreatus and tested by incorporation into base cosmetic creams. In vitro safety evaluation of the extracts and cosmetic formulations prepared therefore was carried out using the MTT and LDH assays in keratinocyte (HaCaT) and fibroblast (HFF-1) cell lines. Moreover, they were submitted to ex vivo skin permeation studies using a Franz diffusion apparatus with pig ear skin as permeation membrane. The results showed the absence of toxicity for keratinocytes and fibroblasts in a concentration-dependent manner, which is indicative of the safety of these extracts for cosmeceutical ingredients purposes. Protocatechuic and syringic acids were the only compounds permeating from G. lucidum extract in the first 8h of study, while no penetration was observed for phenolic acids found in P. ostreatus extract and formulation. These results pointed out for the suitability of using mushroom extracts as skin care ingredients and may contribute for the valorisation of wastes generated by the mushroom processing industry, which can serve as raw materials for the obtainment of the extracts.
... The polemics related to chemical-personal care products which may cause dermatological problem like irritation, itching and burning of skin had create one situation where the consumers aggressively urged on utilize of natural ingredients in the product. The consumer is internet savvy, searching the medical archives for ingredients that will make her or his skin do better than just looking better [1]. For the consumers, "natural products" superficially would seem to be synonymous with "safe" products. ...
Article
Pitaya seed oil, extracted from red pitaya seeds, was utilized as a major antioxidant source in soap formulation for skin application. Bentonite (grey clay powder) with various beneficial properties also was incorporated in the formulation to enhance the positive effect toward skin's structure. The influence of the main compositions of soap formulation containing different fatty acid and oils (cocoa butter, virgin coconut oil, olive oil, palm oil) on the hardness of the soap that undergoes saponification process was investigated by employing D-optimal mixture experimental design. Analysis of variance (ANOVA) was carried out and the polynomial regression for prepared soap hardness in terms of the six design factors was developed by utilizing the experimental data. Results revealed that the best soap formulation included 9.027% A, 29.098% B, 19.588% C, 9.223% D, 23.860% E and 9.204% F. The results showed that the hardness of the soap was greatly affected by the different in the level of fatty acid and oils in the formulation. Depending on the appropriate level of those six variables, the production of moisturizing clay soap containing pitaya seed extract with the most desirable properties which is much better than those of commercial ones is possible.
... O ácido kójico é descrito pela literatura como uma substância natural produzida por vários fungos e bactérias, dentre elas espécies de Aspergillus, Penicillium e Acetobacter. Dentro de suas várias atividades benéficas já comprovadas cientificamente destacam-se a ação antimicrobiana e quelante de íons cobre, sendo esta última responsável pela inativação da tirosinase e, consequentemente, pela ação inibidora na formação de melanina (DRAELOS, 2008). Usualmente a concentração máxima de ácido kójico em cremes é de 5%, pois em excesso pode causar efeitos colaterais severos como dermatite, eritema e hiperpigmentação (YANG, ZHANG, 2007). ...
Article
Full-text available
A administração transdérmica de ativos terapêuticos oferece muitas vantagens sobre outras vias de administração, dentre as quais destacam-se o potencial de eficácia superior e efeitos colaterais mínimos. No entanto, o sistema tegumentar é caracterizado como barreira praticamente impermeável. Neste sentido, pesquisas tem se voltado a buscar recursos que visam ampliar a permeação de substâncias sobre a pele, como a fonoforese. Esta técnica baseia-se na associação de medicamento ou cosmético ao ultrassom terapêutico. Entre os princípios farmacologicamente ativos com potencial de associação à técnica de fonoforese destaca-se o ácido kójico, que é amplamente utilizado na Biomedicina Estética, principalmente por sua ação antioxidante e hipopigmentante. Neste sentido, o objetivo deste estudo foi investigar a liberação e permeação do gel contendo ácido kójico 10% frente à aplicação de fonoforese in vitro . O estudo de liberação e permeação do ácido kójico foi realizado a partir de uma célula de difusão vertical tipo Franz, com membrana de acetato de celulose e biomembrana de pele suína. Foram realizadas análises com e sem aplicação de ultrassom terapêutico, e os resultados mostraram que a técnica de fonoforese amplia em 19% a liberação do ácido kójico para o meio receptor, bem como, em 50% a retenção do ativo no estrato córneo e em 121% a sua permeação em 20 minutos de aplicação.
... The polemics related to chemical-personal care products which may cause dermatological problem like irritation, itching and burning of skin had create one situation where the consumers aggressively urged on utilize of natural ingredients in the product. The consumer is internet savvy, searching the medical archives for ingredients that will make her or his skin do better than just looking better [1]. For the consumers, "natural products" superficially would seem to be synonymous with "safe" products. ...
Article
Full-text available
Pitaya seed oil, extracted from red pitaya seeds, was utilized as a major antioxidant source in soap formulation for skin application. Bentonite (grey clay powder) with various beneficial properties also was incorporated in the formulation to enhance the positive effect toward skin's structure. The influence of the main compositions of soap formulation containing different fatty acid and oils (cocoa butter, virgin coconut oil, olive oil, palm oil) on the hardness of the soap that undergoes saponification process was investigated by employing D-optimal mixture experimental design. Analysis of variance (ANOVA) was carried out and the polynomial regression for prepared soap hardness in terms of the six design factors was developed by utilizing the experimental data. Results revealed that the best soap formulation included 9.027% A, 29.098% B, 19.588% C, 9.223% D, 23.860% E and 9.204% F. The results showed that the hardness of the soap was greatly affected by the different in the level of fatty acid and oils in the formulation. Depending on the appropriate level of those six variables, the production of moisturizing clay soap containing pitaya seed extract with the most desirable properties which is much better than those of commercial ones is possible.
... Aside from our whole body metabolism, extrinsic factors, such as photoaging by ultraviolet (UV) irradiation from the sun, may cause aging faster. [4] A stressful life condition also becomes one of the most important factors in this very high technology era. Thus, people now concern about their skin Pharmacogn. ...
Article
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Background: Cosmeceuticals refer to natural cosmetics with medical-like benefits due to their bioactive contents. Sugar palm fruit (Arenga pinnata) extract has been claimed for its anti-aging effect in vitro. However, its active compounds for cosmeceuticals is still unclear. Objective: This study was aimed to extract galactomannan from A. pinnata fruits and test its efficacy for tyrosinase inhibition, antioxidant, and anti-photoaging activities in vitro. Materials and methods: Galactomannan from A. pinnata fruits was extracted by freeze drying and identified for its chemical compounds by using pyrolysis gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (py-GC/MS). Galactomannan was tested for its tyrosinase inhibition in both cell-based (melanocytes) and enzymatic assays, antioxidant activity using ferrous ion chelating assay (FCA) assay, and anti-photoaging activity for inhibiting the gene expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) and MMP-13 in macrophages using quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction (qRT-PCR) analysis. Results: Identification of galactomannan fraction from A. pinnata fruits by py-GC/MS mainly consisted of oxonium ion and glucosides. For cellular assay, galactomannan at 5 μg/mL inhibited >50% of tyrosinase activity in melanocytes induced by phorbol myristate acetate. At the enzymatic level, galactomannan at similar concentration showed less tyrosinase activity inhibition (~20%). FCA results showed that galactomannan at 10 μg/mL exerted >50% of antioxidant activity. The qRT-PCR data indicated that galactomannan at 5 μg/mL inhibited >50% of MMP-1 and MMP-13 gene expressions in ultraviolet B-treated macrophages. Conclusion: Galactomannan fraction from A. pinnata fruits has efficacy for enlightening effect, antioxidant, and anti-photoaging activity in the dose-independent pattern, indicating its cosmeceutical effects for skin healthcare. Summary: A. pinnata fruit containing galactomannan has cosmeceutical potentials through enlightening effect, antioxidant, and anti-photoaging activity in vitro.Galactomannan fraction has inhibitory effect on tyrosinase activity in both cellular melanocytes and enzymatic systems.Galactomannan fraction has strong protection against UVB-irradiation effect by inhibiting collagenase genes (MMP-1 and MMP-13) in macrophages. Abbreviations Used: Py-GC/MS: Pyrolysis-Gas Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry; FCA: Ferrous chelating activity; MMP: Matrix metalloproteinase; qRT-PCR: Quantitative Real-Time Polymerase Chain Reaction; PMA: Phorbol myristate acetate; UV: Ultraviolet; RPMI: Roswell Park Memorial Institute; DMEM: Dulbecco's modified eagle media; FBS: Fetal bovine serum; PBS: Phosphate buffered saline; MTT: 3-(4,5-diethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-dipheniltetrazolium bromide; L-DOPA: L-3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine; EDTA: Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid; GAPDH: Glyceraldehyde 3-phosphate dehydrogenase; DPPH: 1,1-diphenyl-2-picryl-hydrazyl; SPF: Sun protection factor.
... In recent literature, silk proteins have also been described as having vast promise in biomedical and engineering fields because of its specific biological properties, such as biocompatibility, biodegradability, and induced limited inflammatory responses in vivo. [187][188][189][190] These promising properties have encouraged development of silk fibroin-based nerve conduits. Indeed, the use of silk fibroin allows high structural integrity and nervous tissue colonization 191 (Fig. 4). ...
Article
Full-text available
Many wound management protocols have been developed to improve wound healing after burn with the primordial aim to restore the barrier function of the skin and also provide a better aesthetic outcome. Autologous skin grafts remain the gold standard in the treatment of skin burn but this treatment has its limitation especially for patients presenting limited donor sites due to extensive burn areas. Deep burn injuries also alter the integrity of skin sensitive innervation and have an impact on patient's quality of life by compromising perceptions of touch, temperature and pain. Thus, patients can suffer from long-term disabilities ranging from cutaneous sensibility loss to chronic pain. The cellular mechanisms involved in skin reinnervation following injury are not elucidated yet. Depending on the depth of the burn, nerve sprouting can occur from the wound bed or the surrounding healthy tissue but somehow this process fails to provide correct reinnervation of the wound during scarring. In addition, several clinical observations indicate that damage to the peripheral nervous system influences wound healing, resulting in delayed wound healing or chronic wounds, underlining the role of innervation and neuromediators for normal cutaneous tissue repair development. Promising tissue engineering strategies including the use of biomaterials, skin substitutes and stem cells could provide novel alternative treatments in wound healing and help improving patient's sensory recovery.
... The term cosmeceuticals was created three decades before from now by Albert Kligman to define the cosmetic products with biologically active substances which are carrying either medicinals or drugs like benefits [7] and [8]. In general cosmeceuticals are often used in the field of dermatology to improve skin tone/whitening, increase skin radiance, decrease the appearance of skin wrinkling, and provide anti-aging benefits [7,8,9,10], and [11]. Cosmetic products associated with cosmeceutical compounds have become one of the major market niche with significant annual growth within recent years [12] and [8]. ...
Article
Currently, natural ingredients are becoming more attractive for the industries such as functional food, nutraceuticals, cosmeceutical and pharmaceutical industries as people starting to believe naturally occurring compounds are safer to humans than artificial compounds. Seaweeds are one of the most interesting organisms found in oceans around the earth, which are carrying great ecological importance and contribute to increase the biodiversity of ecosystems where they were originated and habitat. Within last few decades, discovery of secondary metabolites with biological activities from seaweeds has been significantly increased. Further, the unique secondary metabolites isolated from seaweeds including polysaccharides, carotenoids and polyphenols possess range of bioactive properties that make them potential ingredient for many industrial applications. Among those groups of compounds phlorotannins isolated from brown seaweeds have shown interesting bioactive properties including anti-cancer, anti-inflammation, anti-oxidant, anti-allergic, anti-wrinkling and hair growth promotion properties. Moreover, these properties associated with phlorotannins make them an ideal compounds to use as a functional ingredient in cosmeceutical products. Up to now no report has been reviewed about discuss properties of phlorotannins related to the cosmeceutical application. In the present review primary attention is given to the collect scientific data published about bioactive properties of brown algal phlorotannins related to the cosmeceutical industry.
... New substances and technologies are being introduced mainly with anti-aging objectives. However there have been few studies with high methodological quality to support the claimed effects (Hashizume, 2004;Draelos, 2008). ...
Article
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Uma nova tendência em formulações cosméticas é a utilização de matérias-primas biotecnológicas como os polissacarídeos de Klebsiella pneumoniae, que pode aumentar a renovação celular e melhor a hidratação e micro-relevo da pele. Por outro lado, o extrato vegetal de Myrtus communis contém diferentes polissacarídeos, que também podem proporcionar benefícios à pele. Assim, o objetivo do estudo foi a avaliação dos efeitos imediatos e em longo prazo, de formulações cosméticas contendo polissacarídeos obtidos por processo biotecnológico e/ou de extrato de M. communis por meio de análises objetivas e subjetivas. Três formulações contendo os polissacarídeos e um placebo foram aplicadas na pele dos antebraços de 40 voluntários. As medidas foram realizadas antes e após 2 horas da aplicação das formulações e após 15 e 30 dias de aplicações diárias em termos de hidratação da pele, perda transepidérmica de água (TEWL), viscoelasticidade e micro-relevo da pele. Para a análise subjetiva, os voluntários responderam um questionário a fim de obter-se informações sobre a percepção relativa à qualidade de cosméticos. Todas as formulações provocaram aumento da hidratação cutânea. As formulações que continham os polissacarídeos melhoraram a função barreira da pele, em curto e em longo prazo. A formulação contendo extrato de M. communis apresentou maior aceitação. Os resultados sugerem que o uso diário dos polissacarídeos avaliados é importante na proteção da função barreira da pele.
Chapter
Cosmeceuticals refer to a hybrid class of goods that fell between “cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. It exhibits a pharmaceutical therapeutic benefit. Antioxidants, peptides, vitamins, and other compounds are widely used cosmeceuticals that have been scientifically demonstrated to have positive benefits on the skin. The potent benefits of cosmeceuticals documented comprising Anti-aging, Skin hydration, Skin brightening, Acne treatment, Sun protection and Personal hygiene. Since the application and dosage of cosmeceuticals are personalized or precision-oriented, the dermatologist or skin care expert's approval is mandatory for accurate result. Mass increases in the manufacture and development of cosmeceuticals are reported worldwide. The modern era emphasizes external appearance and beauty, a prominent factor that has paved the way for success, self-esteem, confidence, and societal admiration. Both the physiological and psychological factors impact the rising demand on cosmeceuticals. Apart from the end result, the product's safety is vital in the mean process. The safety fundamentally relies on the source of origin, where biodiversity and nature are brought into the scenario. Compared to harsh chemical products, even though they acquire quick results within a very short time span, herbal/natural products are generally considered safe. Numerous cosmetic products are made from natural extracts or substances derived from microbes, plants, or animals. Also, the significant positive effects on the hair and skin health are also verified scientifically. Hence biodiversity could be considered a dependable source for the isolation, extraction and development of cosmetics in a genuine, trustworthy and safe manner. The integrity and authenticity of such products are much higher than those of synthetic items. Since humans have an instinct to explore and exploit nature, stringent laws and ethical perspective are extremely important while handling such sensitive cases. Ultimately the development of cosmeceuticals enhances the global market and business; bioprospecting should be implemented to prevent biological theft, injustice to indigenous people, loss of traditional knowledge, and unethical profit of multinational company. With a forecasted value of 380.2billionin2019andacompoundannualgrowthrate(CAGR)of5.3380.2 billion in 2019 and a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 5.3% from 2021 to 2027, the global cosmetics market is expected to reach 463.5 billion.
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The growing demand is driving the growth of the herbal cosmetics industry globally and attracting the attention of nature to priceless gifts. Herbal skin care products are created by combining a variety of herbal active ingredients with a cosmetic base to nourish and cure certain skin conditions. As the main component of sunlight, ultraviolet radiation is crucial for causing skin damage. They cause a variety of skin conditions, such as rashes, sunburn, erythema, and skin cancer. Since ancient times, natural substances have been used in traditional medicines as well as in healing practices across numerous cultures. They have been used in topical creams, lotions, and preparations. Clinical and laboratory studies conducted over the last 20 years have revealed the advantages of a variety of natural substances for skin care. The morphological and physiological characteristics of the skin are constantly changing. It has been shown that bioactive substances such as polyphenols strengthen the endogenous antioxidant system of the skin, preventing a number of skin issues.
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Algae in cosmetic applications has become a trend, and researchers are paying attention to it as an alternative to medicinal plants or animal sources. In dermatology, there are intriguing applications from marine sources such as algae, particularly in the treatment or improvement of skin diseases or problems. This constructive chapter discusses green algae extraction technology for obtaining bioactive compounds for the cosmeceutical product, the demand for algae in the cosmetics industry, the challenges, and future trends in the use of algae for the production of cosmetic products.
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There is overwhelming evidence from in vitro and in vivo investigations as well as animal and human studies that incorporation of some vitamins in skincare products and cosmeceuticals promote healthy skin and re-engineer the skin to a healthy state. This comprehensive review illustrates the protective roles of vitamins A, B3, C, D, and E in skin- care products and cosmeceuticals. We have evaluated the impact of vitamin-based skincare products on the skin microbiomes and reviewed the popular vitamin-based cosmeceuticals. Our review also identifies the gaps in our knowledge for future research and describe the potential mechanisms of vitamins to promote skin health and reduce wrinkle formation in the ageing skin. The challenges and future opportunities in the area of cosmeceuticals and skincare products also are discussed, along with consumer perceptions, safety implications, and the comparison of dietary vitamin intake as opposed to topical applications. Overall, the aims of this review are to enhance our understanding regarding the physiological role of vitamins in skincare products and cosmeceuticals and to rejuvenate the skin towards healthy state. Such information would provide a valuable resource for consumers, dermatologists, and stakeholders in this important and evolving field of environmental skin protection and anti-aging research in elderly population.
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Cosmeceuticals are one of the fast-growing areas of the natural personal care industry. Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products with medicinal or drug-like benefits that can affect the biological functioning of the skin depending on the ingredients in the composition. The development of one formulation acting on the dermis and stimulating the collagen production is very important for the hydration of the skin. The association of collagen with other ingredients can have a positive effect on increasing the natural production of collagen in the skin. An example of such an ingredient is niacinamide, which, having a recognized nutritional value, has been quite recently studied. Considering these aspects, this study focused on developing oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions, based on natural ingredients (vegetable oils, floral waters, and essential oils) and hydrolyzed collagen and niacinamide as active ingredients, and on evaluating the stability, pH, optical, superficial, rheological and textural properties, as well as microbiological tests of the emulsions, in order to investigate their potential as a cosmeceutical product. All the obtained emulsions proved to be stable at variable temperatures and had a pH value compatible with natural pH of the skin, allowing their safe application. Over goniometric analysis, a partial wetting and a hydrophilic character of the emulsions were emphasized. Following the rheological analyses, all dermatocosmetic emulsions exhibited non-Newtonian pseudoplastic behavior and a thixotropic character, these properties being very important for their production process and their application on the skin surface to generate an optimal therapeutic effect. The textural characteristics recorded for all emulsions indicated adequate spreadability at the application site. All tested samples respected the Pharmacopoeia limits of microbiological contamination. All prepared emulsions have good stability, are safe for the skin and have appropriate physicochemical and microbiological characteristics; therefore, they can be used as a cosmeceutical product.
Article
Now a day, cosmetic industry is 'Cosmeceuticals', which is the fastest growing segment of the natural personal care industry. Cosmeceuticals are serving as a bridge between personal cosmetics and pharmaceuticals that are intended for the enhancement of both the health and beauty of skin. Cosmeceuticals are the future generation of skin care product and a number of topical Cosmeceuticals treatments for conditions such as photo aging, hyper pigmentation, and wrinkles. They are the advances made within the world of dermatological products and the new backbone in skin care. All cosmeceuticals claim to contain functional ingredients with either therapeutic, disease-fighting or healing properties. Skin care cosmeceuticals such as face wash, moisturizers, mask, sunscreen, exfoliates etc. are meant for modify, beatify and treat skin imperfections. Cosmeceuticals improve appearance by delivering nutrients necessary for healthy skin .This review paper is to give recent knowledge about the trend of cosmetic industry- Cosmeceuticals.
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Nanotechnology is a rapidly expanding field of study because of its numerous dermal applications and benefits in dermal care. It also represents progress in research and development by enhancing product efficacy through the adoption of novel technologies. Nanotechnology is increasingly being used in dermal applications to avoid some of the problems associated with traditional treatments. Dermal applications are the segment of the consumer products market that is expanding the fastest, and their popularity has exploded in recent years. In addition to wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, photoaging, hair damage, and dandruff, nanofibers are now frequently used in dermal treatments for skincare, hair, lips, and nails. These innovative dermal applications using nanofibers provide improved skin penetration, higher stability, site-specific targeting, controlled and prolonged drug release, and high entrapment effectiveness. The outcome of dermal applications can be improved with nanofibers by modifying their structure, functionality, chemical and mechanical resistance, and additional attributes. The importance of biopolymers in processing nanofibers, nanofiber processing methods, an overview of dermal applications' significance, and dermal applications based on nanofibers will all be discussed in this review.
Article
The confluence of three key fields, namely, cosmetics, pharmaceutics, and the chemistry of cosmetic items with the human body system, is known as cosmeceutical chemistry. The most remarkable logical knowledge and innovation are incorporated into cosmetology, including science, pharmacology, subatomic physics and nervous system science, etc. Cosmetics are items created to beautify, protect, and change the appearance of our bodies' external features. Water, emulsifiers, preservatives, thickeners, moisturizing agents, colors, and perfumes are the main components found in the majority of cosmetics. Ingredients may be synthetic or naturally occurring, but how they may affect our health mostly depends on the chemical substances they are made of. The concentrations of potentially harmful compounds present in cosmetics are thought to be too low to endanger human health. Nowadays, various types of cosmetics are available in the market such as lotions, lipstick, colognes, nail paints, and other products. After using the base cream, various cosmetics, such as face powder, provide skin luster. To achieve detergency, wetting, emulsifying, re-coloring, and moderating effects, cosmetic fixings/excipients are used. Some unfriendly synthetic reactions in the preparation of cosmetics cause serious dangerous effects on people and the environment. The usage of several cosmetics has restorative effects. Once more, each population has a specific makeup of cosmetic users. The distinction between cosmetic and medical research is becoming increasingly blurred as a result of this growing application of science to beauty. Leading cosmetic companies' laboratories conduct cutting-edge research in areas like grid science, cell reinforcements, and mature forms. Their manufacturing, marketing, and delivery should all be subject to proper rules and regulations in addition to pricing.
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Mushrooms have been an established source of nutrition for hundreds of years. They are recently being exploited for their potential applications in other sectors as well. One of their emerging applications has been in the cosmetic industry where their bioactive properties are being used either as cosmeceutical for topical administration or as nutricosmetics for oral administration. Certain genera of mushrooms which are being used in cosmetic industries are Lentinula, Ganoderma, Pleurotus, Cordyceps, Inonotus, Tremella, Grifola, Schizophyllum, Pleurotus, Coriolus, Ganoderma, Euphorbia, Pistacia, Trametes, Agaricus, Phellinus, Antrodia. The mushroom extracts and their bioactive metabolites show excellent anti-oxidant, anti-wrinkle, anti-aging, moisturizing and skin whitening effects making them ideal and multi-functional cosmetic components. The mounting benefits of various mushroom extracts in skin and hair care products have also fast-tracked the commercial production of mushrooms which is worth mass attention. The present review discusses about the role, diversity, properties and commercial status of mushrooms that are being exploited by the cosmetic industry.
Chapter
Products classified as cosmeceuticals [1] are skincare products that lie in a gray area between cosmetics and drugs. Most ingredients have been added to these products based on the theoretical benefits discovered from in vitro studies [2]. Most of these ingredients are of botanical origin, and their use is not supported by evidence-based science [3].
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The functional food market is constantly expanding and updating, due to the consumers' demand for foods with functional benefits and a more balanced diet. Functional foods usually are described as foods fortified with special constituents that offer some beneficial action to human health. Among the foods that have a long history of functionality are the dairy products added with prebiotics and/or synbiotics. The daily consumption of prebiotics and/or synbiotics contributes significantly to human health, as in the prevention or treatment of irritable bowel syndrome, colon cancer, obesity, type 2 diabetes, and cardiovascular diseases. In addition, there is a great market demand for innovations in functional foods. With the current definitions of prebiotics and synbiotics updated and clarified (approaching two different categories of synbiotics, the complementary and the synergistic synbiotic), it became much easier for the industry and researchers to explore and create new prebiotics/synbiotics products. In this sense, recently, it was observed an increased quantity of scientific studies using prebiotics or synbiotics ingredients with prospective health claims in dairy products. This chapter will present the main updates on prebiotic and synbiotic dairy products and their health benefits.
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Since the concept of functional foods emerged it has led to radical changes in the practices of food production technology. The scientists and food companies focus efforts on the development of foods that, in addition to basic nutrition, also provide good health and longevity. As the era of functional foods is just beginning, this chapter aims to provide an overview of the definition and main aspects for the food to be considered functional according to the criteria of different regulatory agencies. In addition, the most functional ingredients used in dairy products, such as probiotics and prebiotics, will be discussed. An emphasis was given on their sources, obtaining methods, sensory and rheological properties that confer to the food, functional effects, as well as the factors that affect the maintenance of probiotic viability during the processing and storage stages.
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Biopolymers have been extensively studied for their attributes and gainfully employed in diverse fields of health, cosmeceutical and material processing, amongst others. In food processing, they have investigated and employed for versatile applications such as enzymatic transformation of food materials for specific purposes, formulation of additives, water treatment operations, and food packaging. These utilizations and several others are related to some desirable characteristics of biopolymers such as being non‐toxic and biocompatible, affordability ease of processing and natural availability. For packaging of functional food products, the formidable advantage of being biodegradable, of light weight, cheap, and alterable makes them choice materials for the fabrication of packaging materials that meet modern needs. More importantly, biopolymers have been found to directly bear bioactive potentials and/or bear suitable matrices for the encapsulated carriage of biofunctional ingredients in packages of functional foods. This chapter presents a comprehensive expression of the fundamentals of biopolymeric studies and adoptions as commodious materials for the packaging of functional foods. In addition, elemental mechanisms of their efficacies as coatings and packages are delineated.
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The quality of scientific evidence for cosmeceuticals and the active ingredients they contain varies widely, with some products demonstrating more substantial and convincing evidence than others. This chapter reviews the types of cosmeceuticals and provides insight into the available literature. The cosmeceutical industry employs extensive marketing and branding strategies to target the psychology of the average consumer. Products such as cleansers and moisturizers form the backbone of all skin care and cosmeceuticals regimens. For many, use of a cosmeceutical is a proactive step in the struggle against inevitable aging, garnering a sense of control. While more difficult to quantify, anecdotal evidence indicates that skin care through the use of cosmeceuticals and related skin care products is able to offer consumers a rewarding “self‐care” experience. As consumers become more critical of product claims, astute and informed aesthetic practitioners are in a prime position to demystify the available evidence for cosmeceuticals.
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Hiperpigmnetasi pascainflamasi (HPI) merupakan penggelapan warna kulit yang terjadi setelah inflamasi atau cedera pada kulit. HPI sering terjadi pada warna kulit lebih gelap dan dapat menurunkan kepercayaan diri seseorang. Pengobatan konvensional HPI adalah hydroquinone (HQ) topikal yang sering dikombinasikan dengan retinoid. HQ memiliki efek samping berupa dermatitis, perubahan warna kuku, leukoderma permanen, hipopigmentasi, dan okronosis eksogen sedangkan retinoid memiliki efek samping teratogenik. Senyawa fitokimia pada tanaman dapat digunakan sebagai kosmeseutikal herbal untuk terapi alternatif HPI yang lebih aman karena memiliki efek toksisitas minimal. Beberapa kosmeseutikal herbal yang dapat digunakan di antaranya adalah aloesin pada lidah buaya, alpha-bisabolol pada kamomil, arbutin pada tanaman bearberry, ellagic acid pada teh hijau, stroberi, ceri, walnut, anggur, dan geranium, glabridin pada akar manis, polifenol pada teh hijau dan kedelai, vitamin C, silimarin pada Silybum marianum, procyanidin pada Pinus pinaster dan kacang tanah, dan lektin pada gandum, kacang-kacangan, dan berbagai jenis sayuran.
Article
Background: The appearance of aging skin is a common complaint among dermatology patients. There is an expanding market for anti-aging therapies, but little information is available regarding which patients utilize these treatments and patient preferences regarding treatment. Aims: To describe the patient population utilizing anti-aging therapies, assess patient familiarity with treatment options, and learn where treatment information is most often obtained. Patients/methods: Three hundred patients were surveyed in the University of Michigan General Dermatology Clinic. Results: Fifty-three percent of the general dermatology patient population has used an anti-aging treatment in the past; 66% reported interest in the future use. Interest is high among all genders, ages, and incomes. Most subjects obtained treatment information from magazines, but subjects were more likely to pursue treatment if information was obtained from a dermatologist. Conclusion: Demographics of anti-aging therapy are changing, and a wide variety of patients pursue treatment. Patients are largely unfamiliar with most treatment options and are more likely to pursue treatment after receiving treatment information from a dermatologist. The information presented in this study is helpful to both dermatologists and marketers of anti-aging products.
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Ethno-gynecological study was conducted in Murtazaabad Valley, Hunza. Study revealed that elderly women (N=40) of age fifty and above do not use allopathic medicine and rely on indigenous plants for their women specific five major purposes i.e. beauty, smoothening deliveries, back pain, menses pains and bleeding control during menses. They identified eighteen (n=18) plants belonging to 10 plant families and members of family Rosaceae dominate overall consumption in this regard. Centuries old practices are rapidly diminishing and younger generation has forgotten their ethnobotanic heritage and totally depend on allopathic and commercial products for ailments and aspects mentioned above. Such information will extinct in a generational time or in the next thirty (30) years if not properly documented and institutionalized. Folk wisdom is value and a great source for novel drug discoveries for pressing health issues and their management. Present study was aimed at documentation of women specific ethonobotanical information from the area which has never been explored on scientific basis.
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The term “cosmeceuticals”, suggested by Kligman more than 20 years ago, refers to topical products that lie in a gray zone where they are viewed as having both pharmaceutical and cosmetic properties [1]. Although the neologism was innovative and relevant, it was rejected from the US Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act that, according to the 1938s US Congress, labels as drug every substance for use in the diagnosis, cure, treatment or prevention of disease, and as cosmetic any product intended for beautifying and promoting attractiveness. In spite of this, the term cosmeceuticals has recently been gaining increasing popularity, as the term cosmetic seems to be restrictive for those substances that have druglike beneficial effects. On the other hand, the “cosmeceuticals” concept has caused a lot of confusion, because of similar neologisms such as neutraceuticals and/or neoceuticals. Actually, in USA and Canada, most cosmeceuticals are regulated as over the counter (OTC) products, while in Europe they are considered as cosmetics. Only in Japan, a new class of products, called quasi-drugs, has been created [2].
Article
Background: It has been proposed that thermal water can be used as an anti-inflammatory and mild hydrating agent in the preparation of skincare formulations. However, due to the complex process and strict quality control associated with its extraction from the ground, an oligoelements complex that mimics the effects of thermal water on skin is being used instead. Objective:To evaluate the stability and effects of thermal water and its oligoelements in the formulation of cosmeceuticals, as well as their immediate effects on the skin. Methods: An aqueous gel, a gel cream and an emulsion were prepared with and without the addition of oligoelements and submitted to physical stability analysis.The more stable preparations were tested on study subjects' forearms. The objective evaluation of the effects on the skin's texture and hydration was conducted according to biophysical and image analysis techniques before, immediately after and 2 hours after application. Questionnaires assessed participants' subjective perceptions of the various formulations.The possible anti-inflammatory effects were not evaluated. Results: The effects of the more stable gel formulations were assessed on 15 study subjects.The gels increased the content of the aqueous corneum stratum, while the waters only produced an improvement of the skin's texture. Conclusion: The results obtained from the subjective and objective analyses coincided and suggested the usefulness of the oligoelements complex in cosmeceutical products for moisturizing the skin.
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Aloesin, [2-acetonyl-8-beta-d-glucopyranosyl-7-hydroxy-5-methylchromone], a compound isolated from the Aloe plant, is shown in these studies to modulate melanogenesis via competitive inhibition of tyrosinase. Aloesin inhibits purified tyrosinase enzyme and specifically inhibits melanin production in vitro. Enzyme kinetics studies using normal human melanocyte cell lysates and cell-based melanin production demonstrated that aloesin is a competitive inhibitor of tyrosinase from mushroom, human and murine sources. Tyrosine hydroxylase and 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine (DOPA) oxidase activities of tyrosinase from normal human melanocyte cell lysates were inhibited by aloesin in a dose dependent manner. In a percutaneous absorption study a finite dose of aloesin penetrated the skin slowly and was recovered primarily in the surface wash. Aloesin shows promise as a pigmentation-altering agent for cosmetic or therapeutic applications.
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Several tyrosinase inhibitors have been developed and utilized to ameliorate various cutaneous hyperpigmentary disorders and complexion discolorations. Deoxyarbutin (dA) (i.e., 4-[(tetrahydro-2H-pyran-2-yl)oxy]phenol), designed using quantitative structure-activity relationships (QSAR), demonstrates effective inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase and skin-lightening capability (1). However, its comparative safety, effectiveness, and reversibility to other known tyrosinase inhibitors in human melanocytes had not been determined. The effect of dA was assessed in cultured human skin cells, on xenographs, and with a clinical trial. Using cultured human melanocytes, the maximum concentration of dA that allowed 95% viability was fourfold greater than for hydroquinone (HQ), indicating that dA is less cytotoxic/cytostatic than HQ. The viability of cultured human keratinocytes and fibroblasts was also less compromised by increasing concentrations of dA as opposed to HQ. At the maximum concentration allowing normal cellular viability, dA effectively inhibited tyrosinase activity and melanin content in human melanocytes, whereas HQ was marginally inhibitory. Upon removal of dA, tyrosinase activity and melanin content was normalized within five days. Topical application of dA on human xenografts resulted in a gradual and visually apparent skin lightening effect during an eight-week period. In a clinical trial, dA facilitated fading of pre-tanned skin to a statistically significant greater extent than either HQ or no treatment. These results demonstrate that dA is a potentially safe, effective, and reversible tyrosinase inhibitor.
Article
Synopsis Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring saturated dicarboxylic acid which, on topical application (usually as a 20% cream), has been shown to be effective in the treatment of comedonal acne and inflammatory (papulopustular, nodular and nodulocystic) acne, as well as various cutaneous hyperpigmentary disorders characterised by hyperactive/abnormal melanocyte function, including melasma and, possibly, lentigo maligna. In addition, azelaic acid has an antiproliferative and cytotoxic effect on the human malignant melanocyte, and preliminary findings indicate that it may arrest the progression of cutaneous malignant melanoma. The mechanism of this selective cytotoxic action of azelaic acid is unclear, but may possibly be related to its inhibition of mitochondrial oxidoreductase activity and DNA synthesis. In controlled studies, topical azelaic acid demonstrated comparable antiacne efficacy to topical tretinoin, benzoyl peroxide, erythromycin and oral tetracycline, while in patients with melasma azelaic acid proved at least as effective as topical hydroquinone. On topical application azelaic acid is well tolerated, with adverse effects apparently limited to a generally mild and transient local cutaneous irritation. Thus, topical azelaic acid, employed either as monotherapy or in combination with other treatments, is likely to prove of value in the management of acne and several hyperpigmentary disorders, most notably melasma. Pharmacodynamic Studies Azelaic acid displays bacteriostatic and bactericidal properties against a variety of aerobic and anaerobic microorganisms present on acne-bearing skin. Topical application of 20% azelaic acid cream caused marked reductions in the densities of cutaneous micrococcaceae and intrafollicular Propionibacterium sp., and decreased the free fatty acid content of skin surface lipids. Sebum production, sebum composition and sebaceous gland morphology were not significantly altered. In vitro, azelaic acid 20 to 50 mmol/L displayed a time- and concentration-dependent antiproliferative effect on normal human and neonatal mouse keratinocytes, mouse melanoma cells and human cutaneous and choroidal melanoma cells; a cytotoxic effect was manifest at concentrations greater than 40 mmol/L. A similar antiproliferative/cytotoxic effect has been demonstrated with human lymphoma- and leukaemia-derived cell lines and squamous carcinoma cells. Topical 20% azelaic acid cream showed an antikeratinising effect on normal and acne-affected skin which was related to decreased synthesis of filaggrin (keratin filament aggregating protein); hence a reduction in follicular hyperkeratosis may partly underlie the drug’s anti-acne action. Azelaic acid appears to act selectively on hyperactive and abnormal melanocytes. On prolonged (≤ 3 months) topical application, 15 or 20% azelaic acid cream caused no appreciable depigmentation of normally pigmented human skin, freckles, senile lentigines or naevi, but reduced epidermal melanogenesis in patients with lentigo maligna. Combined topical and oral (10 to 15 g/day) azelaic acid therapy in patients with cutaneous malignant melanoma resulted in the degeneration and disappearance of malignant epidermal melanocytes. The antiproliferative/cytotoxic effects of azelaic acid appear to be mediated primarily via disruption of mitochondrial respiration and/or cellular DNA synthesis, rather than via inhibition of tyrosinase activity. Ultrastructural studies demonstrated selective and marked mitochondrial swelling and vacuolation, and accumulation of cytoplasmic lipid droplets, both in cutaneous/ choroidal melanoma cells exposed to azelaic acid (≤ 100 mmol/L) in vitro and in skin biopsies obtained from patients with lentigo maligna or cutaneous melanoma treated with topical azelaic acid. Differences in cellular permeability and/or metabolic activity may account for the greater susceptibility of hyperactive and abnormal epidermal cells (keratinocytes and melanocytes) to the antiproliferative and depigmenting actions of azelaic acid. Pharmacokinetic Studies Azelaic acid has been administered to humans orally, by intravenous, intra-arterial and intralymphatic infusion ( 15% solution of the disodium salt) and topically (usually as 20% azelaic acid cream). In healthy volunteers, plasma azelaic acid concentrations peaked at 6 to 75 mg/L 2 hours after a single oral dose of 0.5 to 5g. Plateau plasma azelaic acid concentrations in excess of 940 mg/L (consistent with those showing antiproliferative effects in vitro) have been achieved with continuous intravenous/intra-arterial infusion. Percutaneous absorption of azelaic acid is governed by the formulation employed, varying from 3% (ointment or emulsion base) to 8% (gel) of the administered dose. In humans, azelaic acid is partially metabolised by mitochondrial β-oxidation to acetyl CoA and malonyl CoA; unchanged drug is excreted exclusively in the urine. Therapeutic Efficacy Under controlled conditions, twice daily topical application of 20% azelaic acid cream was markedly more effective than that of its vehicle in reducing numbers of comedones, papules and pustules in patients with mild-to-moderate acne. On completion of 3 months’ therapy, a significantly higher proportion of patients with papulopustular acne had achieved a good-to-excellent clinical response with azelaic acid (64%) than with vehicle (36%). Over 5- or 6-month treatment periods, topical 20% azelaic acid cream, applied twice daily, was of comparable efficacy to topical 0.05% tretinoin cream, topical 5% benzoyl peroxide gel, topical 2% erythromycin cream, and oral tetracycline 0.5 to 1.0 g/day in comedonal and mild-to-moderately severe inflammatory acne, producing a good-to-excellent clinical response in 65 to 80% of patients with mild-to-moderate acne and in approximately 60% of those with moderate-to-severe acne. However, topical 20% azelaic acid, administered twice daily over a 6-month period, was significantly less effective than oral isotretinoin 0.5 to 1.0 mg/kg/day in conglobate acne. Differences in the time course of the responses to azelaic acid and the various anti-acne agents included a slightly more rapid initial improvement in papulopustular acne with benzoyl peroxide. Preliminary findings indicate that topical 20% azelaic acid cream, administered twice daily over a 6-month treatment period, is of comparable efficacy to topical 4% hydroquinone cream, and significantly superior to 2% hydroquinone cream, in reducing pigmentation and lesion size in melasma (good-to-excellent clinical response in 73 vs 19% of patients receiving azelaic acid and 2% hydroquinone, respectively). The clinical response to topical 15 or 20% azelaic acid cream, applied twice daily for periods of 3 to 12 months, in lentigo maligna was characterised by a progressive reduction in pigmentation, flattening of indurated lesion surfaces and apparent lesion shrinkage. Although response rates showed large interstudy variation (ranging from 13 to 100%), clinical remission, once achieved, was sustained. This inconsistency of response to azelaic acid would, nevertheless, suggest that its use should be confined to those cases of lentigo maligna in which surgery is contraindicated. Similarly, while preliminary findings indicate that combined topical (20% cream) and oral (10 to 15 g/day) azelaic acid therapy may arrest lesion progression in patients with cutaneous malignant melanoma, surgical excision must remain the accepted mode of treatment for this condition. Other possible indications for azelaic acid include treatment of physical and phototoxic hyperpigmentation. Adverse Effects Azelaic acid, at oral doses of up to 4000 mg/kg, has shown no evident toxicity, teratogenicity or mutagenicity in animal studies, and during oral (≤ 20 g/day) or topical (20% cream) administration to humans has demonstrated no systemic adverse effects. Local cutaneous irritation, marked by erythema, pruritus, scaling and a burning sensation, occurs in 5 to 10% of patients (an incidence comparable to that seen with its cream base), and is mild and transient, generally subsiding after 2 to 4 weeks of treatment. In terms of local cutaneous effects, topical azelaic acid is well tolerated in comparison with standard topical anti-acne agents and, in addition, is free of the specific systemic effects variously associated with oral anti-acne agents: antibiotic resistance (tetracycline), mucocutaneous effects and teratogenicity (isotretinoin), potential endocrine imbalance (cyproterone acetate). The incidences of local cutaneous irritation associated with the use of topical 20% azelaic acid and 2 to 4% hydroquinone creams appear comparable. Dosage and Administration The topical route of administration is the only one currently available for azelaic acid. A 20% azelaic acid cream applied twice daily is most frequently employed.
Article
Background: Melasma is difficult to clear. Many agents have been used, such as hydroquinone, and glycolic acid and glycolic acid peels, kojic acid, a tyrosinase inhibitor in the fungus Aspergilline oryzae. Objective: To see if the addition of 2% kojic acid in a gel containing 10% glycolic acid and 2% hydroquinone will improve melasma further. Methods: Forty Chinese women with epidermal melasma were treated with 2% kojic acid in a gel containing 10% glycolic acid and 2% hydroquinone on one half of the face. The other half was treated with the same application but without kojic acid. The side receiving the kojic acid was randomized. Determination of efficacy was based on clinical evaluation, photographs and self-assessment questionnaires at 4 weekly intervals until the end of the study at 12 weeks. The non-parametric Wilcoxon's rank sum test was used for statistical analysis. Results: All patients showed improvement in melasma on both sides of the face. The side receiving the kojic acid did better. More than half of the melasma cleared in 24/40 (60%) patients receiving kojic acid compared to 19/40 (47.5%) patients receiving the gel without kojic acid. In 2 patients, there was complete clearance of melasma, and this was on the side where kojic acid was used. Side effects include redness, stinging, and exfoliation. These were seen on both sides of the face, and they settled by the third week. Conclusion: The addition of kojic acid to a gel containing 10% glycolic acid and 2% hydroquinone further improves melasma.
Article
Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring saturated dicarboxylic acid which, on topical application (usually as a 20% cream), has been shown to be effective in the treatment of comedonal acne and inflammatory (papulopustular, nodular and nodulocystic) acne, as well as various cutaneous hyperpigmentary disorders characterised by hyperactive/abnormal melanocyte function, including melasma and, possibly, lentigo maligna. In addition, azelaic acid has an antiproliferative and cytotoxic effect on the human malignant melanocyte, and preliminary findings indicate that it may arrest the progression of cutaneous malignant melanoma. The mechanism of this selective cytotoxic action of azelaic acid is unclear, but may possibly be related to its inhibition of mitochondrial oxidoreductase activity and DNA synthesis. In controlled studies, topical azelaic acid demonstrated comparable anti-acne efficacy to topical tretinoin, benzoyl peroxide, erythromycin and oral tetracycline, while in patients with melasma azelaic acid proved at least as effective as topical hydroquinone. On topical application azelaic acid is well tolerated, with adverse effects apparently limited to a generally mild and transient local cutaneous irritation. Thus, topical azelaic acid, employed either as monotherapy or in combination with other treatments, is likely to prove of value in the management of acne and several hyperpigmentary disorders, most notably melasma.
Article
The efficacy of 20% azelaic acid cream and 4% hydroquinone cream, both used in conjunction with a broad-spectrum sunscreen, against melasma was investigated in a 24-week, double-blind study with 329 women. Over the treatment period the azelaic acid cream yielded 65% good or excellent results; no significant treatment differences were observed with regard to overall rating, reduction in lesion size, and pigmentary intensity. Severe side effects such as allergic sensitization or exogenous ochronosis were not observed with azelaic acid.
Article
The patient perceives dry skin to be rough, dry, scaly, and cracked, sometimes feeling the onset of subclinical symptoms before obvious outward clinical manifestation is apparent. More accurately, the clinician may describe dry skin or xerosis as roughened, scaling skin with possibly some cracking. The patient may also experience pruritis and reddening associated with the dry skin, but basically it is a noninflammatory condition. Patients as consumers spend several hundred million dollars a year for skin-care products to moisturize dry skin. Some of these products are highly effective in alleviating the symptoms of dry skin, allowing the skin to return to a normal condition, whereas other products are not effective.The clinician sees a host of skin problems like eczema, chapping, seborrheic dermatitis, itchyosis, mild psoriasis, and atopic dermatitis that all have the same scaling, flaking, and roughness associated with dry skin. In the process of treating these various dermatoses, it is sometimes desirable to use adjunctive therapy to alleviate the scaling and flaking symptoms to make the patient more comfortable. Some effective skin moisturizers will alleviate the discomfort associated with dry skin symptoms and restore pliability and moisture to the stratum corneum while appropriate treatment is used to resolve the underlying dermatosis. The remainder of the chapter will deal with the use of moisturizers to alleviate dry skin symptoms and restore a normal function to the stratum corneum. The discussion will include the nature of skin conditioning, effective products on the skin, product ingredients, patient compliance, and product use.
Article
During the past few years much information was obtained about human and animal needs for retinol or its precursors and about the pathophysiology of vitamin A deficiency. Retinol (and its naturally occurring relatives, retinaldehyde and retinoic acid) are now seen as members of a large class of compounds, the retinoids. Major advances in organic chemistry have led to the synthesis of well over 1000 new retinoids. The biologic effects of these compounds have been explored in in vitro (cell and organ culture) and in vivo systems, and they have become important research tools in cell biology. Retinoids have profound effects on cell differentiation and proliferation, and these properties have brought them under clinical investigation, with the potential for clinical application as therapeutic agents, in a number of areas. In one such area, dermatology, retinoids have already had a large impact on clinical practice. Important developments concerning these compounds are also likely to occur in other fields of medicine (such as oncology) in the years ahead.
Article
Ultraviolet (UV) irradiation induces excessive accumulations of elastic fibers in animal and human skin. Collagen is damaged and glycosaminoglycans are vastly increased. Formerly considered an irreversible change, we recently showed, post-irradiation, that a band of normal connective tissue was laid down subepidermally . Because of its ability to stimulate fibroblasts and enhance healing of wounds, we thought it likely that retinoic acid (RA) would promote the formation of this subepidermal zone of reconstruction. Hairless mice were irradiated for 10 weeks with Westinghouse FS20 sunlamps for a total UV dose of 7 J/cm2. Then, 0.05% RA was applied for 5 and 10 weeks. Observations were made by light and electron microscopy. In contrast to controls treated with vehicle, the reconstruction zone was significantly wider in RA-treated mice. The enhanced repair was dose related. Histochemically and ultrastructurally, collagen was normal, fibroblasts were numerous and in a configuration of high metabolic activity.
Article
Melasma continues to be a difficult problem. Although the cause is genetic, the condition is aggravated with sunlight, birth control pills, and pregnancy. Although hydroquinone is effective and has been available for years, a new product, kojic acid, has the advantage of being pharmaceutically more stable and, also, a tyrosinase inhibitor. To evaluate on melasma and related conditions two similar formulations of glycolic acid/hydroquinone and glycolic acid/kojic acid. The therapeutic index of the two formulations is examined. Thirty-nine patients were treated with kojic acid on one side of the face and hydroquinone in a similar vehicle on the other side of the face. The results were documented by a clinical investigator and with Wood's light examination combined with ultraviolet light photography. Fifty-one percent of the patients responded equally to hydroquinone and kojic acid. Twenty-eight percent had a more dramatic reduction in pigment on the kojic acid side; whereas 21% had a more dramatic improvement with the hydroquinone formulation. These results were not statistically different. The kojic acid preparation was more irritating. Both glycolic acid/kojic acid and glycolic acid/hydroquinone topical skin care products are highly effective in reducing the pigment in melasma patients. Both formulations should be available to the dermatologist to satisfy the patient's preferences.
Article
Vitamin A, all-trans-retinol, is metabolized to retinoic acid in vivo by a tightly controlled two-step conversion. Retinoic acid then binds to nuclear receptors and modulates cellular proliferation and differentiation. Because only a small fraction of retinol applied topically can be metabolized to retinoic acid, alternative pathways of retinol metabolism in skin were investigated. Retinol (0.4%) was applied to adult human skin under occlusion for 6 h to 4 d. The conversion of retinol into various metabolites such as 14-hydroxy-4,14-retro-retinol, anhydroretinol, 4-oxo-retinol, retinyl esters, and retinyl glucuronides was investigated. The level of 14-hydroxy-retro-retinol was increased from undetectable at time 0 to 326 ng/g wet weight of tissue at 6 h (6% of the retinol level) and maintained approximately the same concentration at 24 h to 409 ng/g wet weight (1.9% of the retinol level); it decreased to 48 ng/g wet weight of tissue (12% of its maximum level) by 4 d. Anhydroretinol was undetectable at time 0, increased only slightly at 6 h, and remained at the same level. We did not detect 4-oxo-retinol. Because 14-hydroxy-retro-retinol was found in the retinol-treated areas, its effects on epidermis were compared with those of retinol. Topical application of trans-retinol (0.3%) significantly increased both epidermal thickness and cellular retinoic acid binding protein II mRNA, whereas 14-hydroxy-4,14-retro-retinol (0.3%) did not increase either of these well-characterized cutaneous retinoid responses. Retinol, when applied topically in pharmacologic doses to human epidermis, remained as free retinol, was metabolized primarily to retinol ester, and was metabolized to a lesser extent to retro-retinoids and didehydroretinol.
Article
Twenty women with a clinical diagnosis of melasma were treated with liquiritin cream on one side of the face and with a vehicle cream on the other side twice daily for 4 weeks. Patients were advised to avoid sun exposure and/or used topical sunscreen during the entire period of treatment. Inclusion criteria included an age range from 18 to 40 years and bilateral and symmetrical idiopathic epidermal melasma. Exclusion criteria included patients with dermal melasma (differentiated by Wood's light), melasma with pregnancy, and patients currently receiving hormone replacement therapy. Melasma pigmentary intensity was rated on a five-point scale in relation to the patient's normal facial skin (1, no difference; 2, slightly more pigmented; 3, moderately more pigmented; 4, markedly more pigmented; and 5, intensely more pigmented). The size of the lesions was measured directly using a millimeter grid scale. Ratings and measurements were made prior to treatment and at each of the follow-up visits (after 2, 4, 6, 8, and 10 weeks). Clinical evaluation was performed at week 4; the overall response was rated as excellent, good, fair, or poor. Color photographs were taken at the start and at week 4 of the study. Side-effects were observed and treated.
Article
Skin hyperpigmentation is caused by the overproduction of melanin pigment, which is synthesized by the action of tyrosinase. We recently reported that aloesin inhibits tyrosinase activity. The present study was undertaken to test the inhibitory effect of aloesin on pigmentation in human skin after UV radiation. Experimental subjects were UV-irradiated (210 mJ) on the inner forearm. UV-irradiated regions were assigned to four groups: vehicle control, aloesin treated, arbutin treated, and aloesin and arbutin treated. Aloesin and/or arbutin were administered four times a day for 15 days. Aloesin treatment suppressed pigmentation by 34%, arbutin by 43.5%, and the cotreatment by 63.3% compared with the control (n = 15; P < 0.05). Moreover, aloesin treatment showed pigmentation suppression in a dose-dependent manner (n = 7; P < 0.05). These results raise the possibility that aloesin may be used as an agent that inhibits melanin formation induced by UV radiation.
Article
Pigmentary disorders are one of the most common skin disorders among people of color. Dyspigmentation in the form of either hyperpigmentation or hypopigmentation is often psychologically devastating to patients with darker skin. There is marked contrast between normally pigmented hyperpigmented, hypopigmented or depigmented skin in people of color. Despite being common, pigmentary disorders remain difficult to treat.
Article
Arbutin, hydroquinone-O-beta-D-glucopyranoside (1) was found to inhibit the oxidation of l-tyrosine (monophenolase activity) catalyzed by mushroom tyrosinase. However, arbutin itself was oxidized as a monophenol substrate at an extremely slow rate, and this oxidation was accelerated as soon as catalytic amounts (0.01 mM) of l-3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine (L-DOPA) became available as a cofactor. The result observed was supported by monitoring oxygen consumption. The depigmenting mechanism of arbutin previously reported is supportable if a cofactor is not available in the melanocytes. The combination with L-ascorbic acid is a useful application, particularly when oxygen is limited.
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