Article

Effects of topical creams containing vitamin C, a copper-binding peptide cream and melatonin compared with tretinoin on the ultrastructure of normal skin - A pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study

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Abstract

Little is known of the effects of topical application of vitamin C, glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine copper tri-peptide complex or melatonin as compared with topical tretinoin on the ultrastructure of skin. We were interested in determining whether any of these topical applications could enhance the repair process associated with photodamage of skin. In healthy subjects, dermal procollagen synthesis was studied after topical application of the study medications. Further investigations were done to determine possible changes in keratinocyte proliferation, keratinocyte differentiation, and cutaneous inflammation after topical application. Twenty healthy subjects were included for a period of 1 month in this study. Ten volunteers applied topical creams containing tretinoin and vitamin C to the extensor surface of their right and left thighs respectively. Ten others applied topical creams containing melatonin and the copper-binding cream to the extensor surface of their right and left thighs, respectively. Immunohistological assessment of the skin biopsies was made at baseline and after 1 month of treatment for changes in dermal procollagen synthesis, the number of Ki 67+ keratinocytes (epidermal proliferation), K-16 keratin expression (epidermal differentiation), and the number of dermal CD3+ cells (T lymphocytes). Immunohistologic assessment demonstrated a significant increase of procollagen synthesis by dermal papillary fibroblasts from baseline in 4 of 10 volunteers treated with tretinoin, 5 of 10 treated with vitamin C, 5 of 10 treated with melatonin and 7 of 10 healthy volunteers treated with the copper-binding peptide cream. Further studies in selected individuals with good dermal collagen synthesis indicated that tretinoin enhanced epidermal proliferation. A decrease in dermal CD3+ T cells with tretinoin and vitamin C application suggested that these compounds might have anti-inflammatory properties. We concluded that topical application of tretinoin, vitamin C, melatonin, and copper-binding peptide-containing creams enhanced dermal collagen synthesis, although not in all individuals. These results also open a possible application of these compounds in the repair process of cutaneous photodamage and as anti-inflammatory agents.

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... Many peptides and proteins used for cosmetic indications; glycyl-histidyl-lysine (GHK)-Cu is one of the most widely utilized for wound healing and anti-ageing indications. Abdulghani et al. [21] revealed its enhanced but insignificant antiageing effects when compared with tretinoin, Vitamin C and melatonin. ...
... Abdulghani et al. [21] conducted a non-randomized four-arm active-controlled trial on 20 participants to compare GHK-Cu with topical tretinoin, Vitamin C and melatonin. Ten subjects received tretinoin and Vitamin C creams on the extensor surface of their right and left thighs respectively and the other ten subjects received GHK-Cu and melatonin creams to the extensor surface of their right and left thighs respectively, for 1 month. ...
Article
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Ageing, a basic biological process seen in all living creatures, is not preventable. Surgical and topical modalities have been invented and substances were applied topically to alter the ageing process. Peptides and proteins, frequently used for this purpose, were categorized into four groups: signal peptides, enzyme-inhibitor peptides, neurotransmitter-inhibitor peptides and carrier peptides. We comprehensively review eligible studies -including controlled ex vivo or in vivo efficacy studies on any topical peptide or protein that has been administered to treat signs and symptoms of ageing. Le vieillissement, processus biologique concernant toutes les créatures vivantes est inévitable. Divers moyens chirurgicaux et topiques ont été inventés et plusieurs substances ont été appliquées pour modifier ce processus. Les peptides et les protéines fréquemment utilisés dans ce but sont regroupés en 4 catégories : les peptides signaux, les peptides inhibiteurs enzymatiques, les peptides inhibiteurs de neurotransmetteurs et les peptides transporteurs. Nous passons en revue les études recevables – y compris les études d’efficacitéex vivo ou in vivo– concernant les peptides ou les protéines mis en œuvre pour traiter les symptômes et les signes du vieillissement.
... A comparison of skin biopsies at baseline and after one month of treatment revealed that GHK-Cu was the most effective treatment, so that procollagen synthesis by dermal papillary fibroblasts increased in 70% of volunteers treated with GHK-Cu, 50% treated with the vitamin C, and 40% treated with retinoic acid. 14 Given the published studies, GHK-Cu is effective on improvement of the signs of photoaging. A GHK-Cu cream was applied to the area around the eyes of 41 female participants with mild to advanced photodamage for 12 weeks. ...
Article
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Introduction: Peptides are promising and attractive anti-wrinkle active ingredients, amongst which glycyl-histidyl-lysine peptide (GHK) is one of the most broadly promoted peptide for topical application. This simple sequence of amino acid residues not only has the capability of tissue regeneration and the enhancement of collagen and glycosaminoglycans synthesis but also is able to increase nerve outgrowth and angiogenesis. Consequently, GHK has several properties, from wound healing to prevention/reduction wrinkles. GHK-Cu and Pal-GHK are metal complex and palmitoylated derivatives of GHK, respectively. Although GHK-Cu and Pal-GHK are widely used in anti-wrinkle products available on the cosmetic market, the published information on their skin permeability, effectiveness, physicochemical properties and so on is insufficient. Methods: This review aims to highlight whether GHK is sufficiently effective on wrinkle prevention/reduction. Apart from the effectiveness, another question that is tried to be answered is whether skin permeability of GHK allows it to act as an anti-wrinkle peptide at its site of action? Skin permeation enhancement methods employed so far are also reviewed. Results: Based on cellular studies, undoubtedly, GHK can be considered as an anti-wrinkle ingredient. Although GHK-Cu and Pal-GHK have been of interest as effective peptides to be incorporated in the anti-wrinkle products, there is a surprising absence of clinical studies using them. Metal complexation and chemical modification with a hydrophobic moiety increase permeability of this peptide. Besides, cell penetrating peptides seem promising to increase skin permeation of GHK and its derivatives. Skin pretreatment with microneedles also has the potential to be further studied for permeation enhancement of such peptides. As peptide ingredients, their formulation may encounter some challenges, mainly due to their hydrophilic (high aqueous solubility and low partition coefficient) and unstable nature. Conclusion: Although GHK-Cu and Pal-GHK are effective and relatively skin permeable, their permeability could be successfully increased using permeation enhancement methodologies.
... Creams are water-soluble and hence facilitate easy application and washing without irritation (Manosroi et al. 2020). One example of anti-aging creams is a copper-binding peptide cream for dermal delivery, developed by Ahsan et al. (Abdulghani et al. 1998), which can enhance dermal collagen synthesis leading to skin anti-ageing effects. ...
Article
Skin ageing is a cumulative result of oxidative stress, predominantly caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS). Respiration, pollutants, toxins, or ultraviolet A (UVA) irradiation produce ROS with 80% of skin damage attributed to UVA irradiation. Anti-ageing peptides and proteins are considered valuable compounds for removing ROS to prevent skin ageing and maintenance of skin health. In this review, skin ageing theory has been illustrated with a focus on the mechanism and relationship with anti-ageing peptides and proteins. The effects, classification, and transport pathways of anti-ageing peptides and proteins across skin are summarized and discussed. Over the last decade, several novel formulations and advanced strategies have been developed to overcome the challenges in the dermal delivery of proteins and peptides for skin ageing. This article also provides an in-depth review of the latest advancements in the dermal delivery of anti-ageing proteins and peptides. Based on these studies, this review prospected several semi-solid dosage forms to achieve topical applicability for anti-ageing peptides and proteins.
... Tocopherol (vitamin E), when applied topically to skin has been shown to reduce erythema after sunburn, chronic UVB-induced skin damage, and carcinogenesis in several published studies [13,14]. Copper along with peptide complexes have been reported to increase collagen levels in the skin, in studies that have used immunohistochemistry [15]. ...
Article
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Objective: The primary aim of this study was to evaluate the performance of a commercially manufactured study product-a non-toxin-based topical skin serum-in terms of its wrinkle reducing capability in women concerned about the appearance of their wrinkles.
... Several scientific studies indicate that palmitoyl-KTTS has a capacity to significantly reduce signs of skin aging on the face [58][59][60]. In vivo synergistic activity of cell regulators and antioxidants, as observed in some studies [60,73], makes the combination of differently acting active substances promising for cosmetic and dermatological applications. ...
Article
Over-the-counter antiaging formulations aim to prevent or minimize the signs of aging skin, and to maintain the benefits obtained from different cosmetic procedures. Even though a huge selection of such products is available on the market, evidence and good clinical practice of the data supporting their use are oftentimes lacking. In this systematic review, the authors reviewed scientific data available in the published literature on the most common ingredients used in antiaging cosmetics, with a particular focus on in vivo studies.
... One study compared the skin's production of collagen after applying creams containing copper tripeptide, vitamin C, or retinoic acid to thighs daily for one month, in 20 women. One month later, copper tripeptide increased collagen in 70% of the women, versus 50% treated with vitamin C, and 40% treated with retinoic acid [99]. ...
Article
Full-text available
Biotechnology uses microorganisms and/or enzymes to obtain specific products through fermentative processes and/or genetic engineering techniques. Examples of these products are active ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid, kojic acid, resveratrol, and some enzymes, which are used in skin anti-aging products. In addition, certain growth factors, algae, stem cells, and peptides have been included in cosmetics and aesthetic medicines. Thus, biotechnology, cosmetics and aesthetic medicines are now closely linked, through the production of high-quality active ingredients, which are more effective and safer. This work describes the most used active ingredients that are produced from biotechnological processes. Although there are a vast number of active ingredients, the number of biotechnological active ingredients reported in the literature is not significantly high.
... In order to treat the skin as well as antiaging issues, the GHK-Cu has much interest and applications. The antiaging property of the facial cream having GHK-Cu was examined by Abdulghani and coworkers by applying it on the skin of female volunteers and the result was much satisfactory (Abdulghani et al. 1998). The peptide named Palmitoyl KTTKS has found to enhance the penetration into skin as compared to placebo and so it is being used widely into the cosmetic industry and is much satisfactory comparator (Osborne et al. 2005;Robinson et al. 2005). ...
... GHK-Cu applied to thigh skin for 12 weeks improved collagen production in 70% of the women treated, in contrast to 50% treated with the vitamin C cream, and 40% treated with retinoic acid [16]. In addition to improving skin laxity, clarity, firmness and appearance, reducing fine lines, coarse wrinkles and mottled pigmentation, and increasing skin density and thickness, GHK-Cu cream applied twice daily for 12 weeks also strongly stimulated dermal keratinocyte proliferation [17]. ...
Article
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The human peptide GHK (glycyl-l-histidyl-l-lysine) has multiple biological actions, all of which, according to our current knowledge, appear to be health positive. It stimulates blood vessel and nerve outgrowth, increases collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycan synthesis, as well as supports the function of dermal fibroblasts. GHK’s ability to improve tissue repair has been demonstrated for skin, lung connective tissue, boney tissue, liver, and stomach lining. GHK has also been found to possess powerful cell protective actions, such as multiple anti-cancer activities and anti-inflammatory actions, lung protection and restoration of chronic obstructive pulmonary disease (COPD) fibroblasts, suppression of molecules thought to accelerate the diseases of aging such as NFκB, anti-anxiety, anti-pain and anti-aggression activities, DNA repair, and activation of cell cleansing via the proteasome system. Recent genetic data may explain such diverse protective and healing actions of one molecule, revealing multiple biochemical pathways regulated by GHK.
... New collagen production was determined by skin biopsy samples using immunohistological techniques. After one month, Cu-GHK increased collagen in 70% of those treated, versus 50% treated with vitamin C, and 40% treated with retinoic acid [39]. Leyden et al. confirmed in two different studies (12 weeks of application by 71 or 41 women) the clinically beneficial effects of Cu-GHK formulations on both aged and sun damaged skin. ...
Article
Full-text available
In the last two decades, many new peptides have been developed, and new knowledge on how peptides improve the skin has been uncovered. The spectrum of peptides in the field of cosmetics is continuously growing. This review summarizes some of the effective data on cosmeceutical peptides that work against intrinsic and extrinsic aging. Some peptides have been proven in their efficacy through clinical skin trials. Well-known and documented peptides like copper tripeptide are still under research to obtain more details on their effectiveness, and for the development of new treatments. Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 and Carnosine are other well-researched cosmeceuticals. Additionally, there are many more peptides that are used in cosmetics. However, study results for some are sparse, or have not been published in scientific journals. This article summarizes topical peptides with proven efficacy in controlled in vivo studies.
... A 12 week trial of topically administered GHK-Cu in 71 volunteers demonstrated improvements in fine lines, viscoelastic properties, thickness and density of the skin, without irritation [12]. Other trials report significant improvements in skin appearance [13], increased dermal keratinocyte proliferation and increased pro-collagen synthesis [14]. Maquart et al. found dose related effects of GHK-Cu, including increases in dry weight, total protein, collagen and glycosaminoglycan content in rat skin [15]. ...
Article
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Background: Glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine-copper (GHK-Cu) is an endogenous tripeptide-copper complex involved in collagen synthesis and is used topically as a skin anti-aging and wound healing agent. However, its biological effects are yet to be fully elucidated. Objectives: To investigate the effects of GHK-Cu on gene expression of metalloproteinases (MMPs) and tissue inhibitors of metalloproteinases (TIMPs), and on production of collagen and elastin by human adult dermal fibroblasts (HDFa); and to investigate the effectiveness of topical application of GHK-Cu on wrinkle parameters in volunteers. Methods: Cultured HDFa were incubated with GHK-Cu at 0.01, 1 and 100 nM in cell culture medium. Gene expression (mRNA) for MMP1, MMP2, TIMP1 and TIMP2 in treated and control HDFa was measured by RT-PCR. Cellular production of collagen and elastin was measured colourmetrically using commercial assay kits. Correlations between gene expression and collagen and elastin production were determined. A randomised, double-blind clinical trial involving twice daily application of GHK-Cu, encapsulated in lipid-based nano-carrier, to facial skin of female subjects (n= 40, aged 40 to 65) was run over 8 weeks. GHK-Cu. The formulation vehicle (a serum) and a commercial cosmetic product containing Matrixyl® 3000, a lipophilic GHK derivative, were used as controls. Results: GHK-Cu significantly increased gene expression of MMP1 and MMP2 at the lowest concentration whilst simultaneously increasing the expression of TIMP1 at all the tested concentrations. All examined concentrations of GHK-Cu increased both collagen and elastin production. An increase of the mRNA expression ratio of TIMPs to MMPs was associated with an increase in collagen/elastin production. Application of GHK-Cu in nano-carriers to facial skin of volunteers significantly reduced wrinkle volume (31.6%; p=0.004) compared to Matrixyl® 3000, and significantly reduced wrinkle volume (55.8%; p<0.001) and wrinkle depth (32.8%; p=0.012) compared to control serum. Conclusions: GHK-Cu significantly increased collagen and elastin production by HDFa cells depending on the relative mRNA expression of their TIMP(s) over MMP. Topical application of GHK-Cu with the aid of nano-carriers reduced wrinkle volume to a significantly greater extent than the vehicle alone or Matrixyl 3000®, a commercial product containing a GHK lipophilic derivative.
... 36,43 GHK can penetrate the stratum corneum and accumulate to relevant concentrations in the skin. 43 Application of a cream containing Cu-GHK, a complex of copper and GHK, for 1 month was reported to increase collagen levels in the skin, as measured by immunohistochemistry. 44 Glycine-glutamate-lysine-glycine tetrapeptide (GEKG) GEKG, also known as tetrapeptide-21, is a matrikine whose activity was investigated in a series of in vitro studies and clinical assessments in participants with facial wrinkles. 45 In the in vitro studies, the peptide increased procollagen secretion and collagen mRNA levels in human foreskin fibroblasts. ...
Article
Full-text available
Skin aging is primarily due to alterations in the dermal extracellular matrix, especially a decrease in collagen I content, fragmentation of collagen fibrils, and accumulation of amorphous elastin material, also known as elastosis. Growth factors and cytokines are included in several cosmetic products intended for skin rejuvenation because of their ability to promote collagen synthesis. Matrikines and matrikine-like peptides offer the advantage of growth factor-like activities but better skin penetration due to their much smaller molecular size. In this review, we summarize the commercially available products containing growth factors, cytokines, and matrikines for which there is evidence that they promote skin rejuvenation.
... A study of collagen production determined by studying skin biopsy samples using immunohistological techniques found that after applying creams to the thighs for one month, GHKpeptides had a significant effect on collagen production. Increases were found in 70% of the women treated with GHK-Cu, in contrast to 50% treated with the vitamin C cream, and 40% treated with retinoic acid [32]. ...
Article
Full-text available
GHK (glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine) is present in human plasma, saliva, and urine but declines with age. It is proposed that GHK functions as a complex with copper 2+ which accelerates wound healing and skin repair. GHK stimulates both synthesis and breakdown of collagen and glycosaminoglycans and modulates the activity of both metalloproteinases and their inhibitors. It stimulates collagen, dermatan sulfate, chondroitin sulfate, and the small proteoglycan, decorin. It also restores replicative vitality to fibroblasts after radiation therapy. The molecule attracts immune and endothelial cells to the site of an injury. It accelerates wound-healing of the skin, hair follicles, gastrointestinal tract, boney tissue, and foot pads of dogs. It also induces systemic wound healing in rats, mice, and pigs. In cosmetic products, it has been found to tighten loose skin and improve elasticity, skin density, and firmness, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, reduce photodamage, and hyperpigmentation, and increase keratinocyte proliferation. GHK has been proposed as a therapeutic agent for skin inflammation, chronic obstructive pulmonary disease, and metastatic colon cancer. It is capable of up- and downregulating at least 4,000 human genes, essentially resetting DNA to a healthier state. The present review revisits GHK’s role in skin regeneration in the light of recent discoveries.
... A 12 week trial of topically administered GHK-Cu in 71 volunteers demonstrated improvements in fine lines, viscoelastic properties, thickness and density of the skin with no irritation reported 5 . Other trials report significant improvements in skin appearance 6 , increased dermal keratinocyte proliferation and increased pro-collagen synthesis 7 . ...
Article
Full-text available
Abstract This study investigates the physicochemical properties of glycyl-histidyl-lysine-copper (GHK-Cu) to support the development of a formulation for effective topical delivery. The solubility and distribution coefficients (log D) were investigated using conventional methods and GHK concentrations were quantified with a validated stability-indicating reversed phase high performance liquid chromatography (RP-HPLC) method. In addition, the stability of GHK-Cu under stressed conditions and the compatibility with some potential formulation components were assessed. The peptide was susceptible to hydrolytic cleavage under basic and oxidative stressors and to a lesser extent acidic stress with first-order degradation profiles. Surprisingly, the peptide was stable in water and in pH (4.5-7.4) buffers for at least two weeks at 60 °C. The HPLC in conjunction with mass spectrometry identified three key degradation products, one of which was the constituent amino acid histidine. The distribution coefficients in octanol-phosphate buffered saline indicated the highly hydrophilic nature of GHK-Cu with log D values between -2.38 and -2.49 at pH range of 4.5-7.4. Furthermore, GHK-Cu was compatible with Span 60 based niosomes but less stable in the presence of the negatively charged lipid dicetyl phosphate. In summary, the preformulation studies provided information useful to deliver the GHK-Cu complex by carrier.
... More importantly, Copper Peptide Complex, formulated in a wide variety of cosmetic preparations, has shown to both stimulate collagen production and to reduce the visible signs of aging, improve skin laxity, clarity, and appearance, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and to increase skin density and thickness both on the face and eye area [18][19][20][21] . ...
... More importantly, Copper Peptide Complex formulated in a wide variety of cosmetic preparations has show to both stimulate collagen production and to reduce the visible signs of aging, improve skin laxity, clarity, and appearance, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and to increase skin density and thickness both on the face and eye area [18][19][20][21] . As shown above, the activities of copper and copper peptide are all essential to maintaining skin health and reversing the signs of aging. ...
... Auch für die zur zweiten Wirkstoffgeneration zählenden Spuren− elemente konnte in vitro eine Stimulation der Kollagenneosyn− these demonstriert werden [17,18] ...
Article
Neben externen Noxen wie UV-Strahlung und Umweltschadstoffen trägt auch die Postmenopause als intrinsischer Faktor mit ihren hormonellen Umstellungen maßgeblich zum Alterungsprozess der Haut bei. Inwieweit systemische Maßnahmen, etwa die Gabe von Östrogenen, zur Intervention intrinsischer Hautalterung sinnvoll sind, wird bislang kontrovers diskutiert. Zudem sind bei all diesen Maßnahmen mögliche unerwünschte Begleiterscheinungen zu berücksichtigen. Umfassende klinisch-experimentelle Kenntnisse über die Ursachen der intrinsischen wie auch der extrinsischen Hautalterung bieten heute die Möglichkeit, Dermatokosmetika zu entwickeln, die den speziellen Anforderungen der reifen, postmenopausalen Haut Rechnung tragen. Sowohl bei der Entwicklung differenzierter galenischer Grundlagen als auch neuer Wirkstoffe konnten in den letzten Jahren wichtige Fortschritte erreicht werden. Einige der wichtigsten topischen Wirkstoffe gegen intrinsische Hautalterungsprozesse werden in der vorliegenden Arbeit dargestellt.
... Spurenelemente: Die Erkenntnis, dass Kupfer den Fibroblastenund Bindegewebsstoffwechsel stimulieren kann [34], hat zu der Überlegung geführt, kupferhaltige Zubereitungen auch als Antiaging Wirkstoffe einzusetzen. So zeigen erste In-vivo-Untersuchungen [35] eine erhöhte Prokollagensynthese, eine verbesserte Hydratation und eine Zunahme der Hautdichte in der 20 MHz-Sonographie [36] durch topische Applikation eines Kupfertripeptidkomplexes. ...
Article
In den letzten Jahren kam es zu einer grosen Zahl von Neuentwicklungen im Bereich von dermatokosmetischen Formulierungen, was gleichzeitig zu einer deutlich hoheren Zahl von kauflich erhaltlichen Praparaten gefuhrt hat. Hierbei gab es Neuentwicklungen sowohl im Bereich der Rohstoffe, der Galenik wie auch im Bereich der kosmetischen Wirkstoffe. Ziel des vorliegenden Artikels soll es daher sein, besonders interessante neue Entwicklungen und Trends im Bereich der Dermatokosmetika aus dermatologischer Sicht darzulegen. Insbesondere soll hier im Bereich der Rohstoffe auf Neuentwicklungen von Tensiden und im Bereich der Galenik auf Nanoemulsionen eingegangen werden. Im Bereich der kosmetischen Wirkstoffe sollen die so genannten Antiagingpraparate, hier insbesondere die Vitamin-A-Derivate und Ostrogen-Praparate erwahnt werden. Einen weiteren wichtigen Schwerpunkt bilden photoprotektive Substanzen wie Antioxidantien und DNA-Reparatur-Enzyme. In recent years there has been an increasing number of new developments in the field of cosmetics and skin care, which has led to an increasing number of new formulations and preparations in the same time. Progress has been made both in the development of raw materials and carrier systems and ingredients. The aim of this article is to describe important new developments in rawmaterials, carrier systems and ingredients from the dermatological point of view. Especially the new development of detergents and nanoemulsions as well as antiaging-preparations and here in particular the vitamin A derivates and hormones are reviewed. Moreover photoprotective substances such as antioxidants and DNA-repair-enzymes are reviewed in the present article.
Article
PURPOSE: Atopic dermatitis (AD), often referred to as eczema, is a chronic disease characterized by skin inflammation, itchiness, irritation, and dryness. It is caused mainly by immune dysregulation. Copper peptides (CP) have been used for a variety of skin-related purposes. In this study, we examined the effect of CP on AD induced in BALB/c mice.METHODS: BALB/c mice were separated into the following five groups: control, AD-only, AD+CP10, AD+CP100, and AD+CERA. AD was induced using house dust mite (HDM) extract and 2,4-dinitrochlorobenzene (DNCB). The mice received CP or ceramide (CERA; positive control) based on their group allocation. Histopathological analysis was performed to assess the effect of CP on mast cell infiltration. Dermal and epidermal thickness were measured using microphotographs of hematoxylin-and-eosin-stained tissue. We examined the serum immunoglobulin E (IgE) levels and mRNA gene expression of pathogenic cytokines in the mouse ear tissue and in human keratinocytes.RESULTS: CP treatment decreased dermal and epidermal mouse ear thickness and mast cell infiltration in the ear tissue in a dosedependent manner. It also decreased the serum IgE levels and the mRNA gene expression of pathogenic cytokines in the ear tissue and in the human keratinocytes. Interestingly, the therapeutic effect of CP was more robust than that of CERA.CONCLUSIONS: These results indicate that CP may have therapeutic potential against AD.
Chapter
Nanotechnology is a novel expanding area of research involved in manipulating properties and structures at nanoscale. Nanoparticles have recently received considerable attention in medical, biomedical, and biotechnological applications and have emerged in the fields of cosmetics and dermal preparations. This chapter introduces the cutting-edge science related to nanoparticles' role in the cosmeceutical industry. It starts by presenting skin structure and function. It then explains mechanisms of nanoparticle permeation through skin including transcellular, intercellular, and transappendageal pathways. Various ingredients used in beauty care products and their novel nanoformulations are discussed. A full discussion of the main nanoparticles that have been used in cosmetics is presented. The toxicity of nanoparticles, safety requisites for these products, and the regulation of nanoparticle applications in beauty care products are then described.
Chapter
Die Haut als Ich-bezogenes Organ des menschlichen Körpers dient auch der Kommunikation mit dem Gegenüber und wurde seit jeher bewusst in ihrer Erscheinung modifiziert. So reichen die Ursprünge kosmetischer Behandlungen durch Externa (auch zur Faltenbehandlung) viele Jahrtausende zurück. Schon im alten Ägypten spielten kosmetische Anwendungen, nicht nur bei Frauen, sondern auch bei Männern, eine große Rolle.
Chapter
By 2030, the preponderance of older individuals over younger ones will transform the shape of the age distribution graph into a rectangle rather than the current pyramid observed. This chapter summarizes the characteristics and in vitro and in vivo studies on effect of peptides and proteins on aging skin.
Chapter
The copper-binding tripeptide GHK (glycyl-l-histidyl-l-lysine) is a naturally occurring plasma peptide widely used in skin care products. It is especially popular in antiaging cosmetic formulations due to its various and well-established positive biological effects on aging skin. It has been established that GHK-Cu improves wound healing and tissue regeneration and stimulates collagen and decorin production. GHK-Cu also supports angiogenesis and nerve outgrowth, improves the biological condition of aging skin and hair and possesses DNA repair, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory effects. In addition, it increases cellular stemness and secretion of trophic factors by mesenchymal stem cells. GHK’s antioxidant actions have been demonstrated in vitro and in animal studies. They include blocking the formation of reactive oxygen and carbonyl species, detoxifying toxic products of lipid peroxidation such as acrolein, protecting keratinocytes from lethal UVB radiation, and blocking hepatic damage by dichloromethane radicals. In recent studies, GHK has also been found to switch cellular gene expression from a diseased state to a healthier state for certain cancers and for chronic obstructive pulmonary disease (COPD). The human gene expression actions provide a unique view of the complex and intricate gene actions underlying visible changes in human skin. This chapter reviews biological and gene data related to the positive antiaging effects of GHK on human skin.
Article
Wound healing is an extraordinarily complicated process associating with the cell aging, slowing down of cell renewal mechanism and even loss of protective function to environmentally induced oxidative stress. A lack of effective treatment results in the appearance of skin lesions and chronic wounds. A satisfactory answer to skin care and therapy problems seems to be a molecule Gly-His-Lys of natural origin that promotes synthesis of collagen, inhibits the activity of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and reduces the activity of collagenases. Several Gly-His-Lys analogues were obtained to investigate their antimicrobial properties. Three lipophilic analogues with the structure numbering 1b, 2b, 4b, exhibit significant effect against bacteria and were selected for in vitro evaluation of skin cells behaviour. In the present studies, an in vitro model of wound repair, proliferative cell staining, and tracking of living cells were used. Cell proliferation and cell migration, as important actions during the wound repair process, were studied. All the analogues provided an optimal environment for the growth, development and viability of skin cells. Microscopic changes in the morphology of fibroblasts and keratinocytes confirmed the positive effect of all the analogues on their growth and condition. Franz-type diffusion studies and the behaviour of analogues in the in vitro model of permeation were also performed. Permeability and diffusion coefficients were measured using UV-Vis spectrophotometry and RP-HPLC techniques. A substantial increase of permeability parameters for the lipophilic analogues was noticed. The outcomes of these studies suggest that lipophilic analogues possess a high potential as topical therapeutics. In relation with their proved antimicrobial activity, their safety profile and great tolerance for human skin show that they may be applied in both skin care and wound therapies.
Chapter
Hautpflege hat in der modernen, westlichen Gesellschaft eine extrem große Bedeutung erlangt, und ein gepflegtes Aussehen spielt eine immer wichtiger werdende Rolle. Für wenige andere Industrieprodukte wird heute so viel Geld ausgegeben wie für die individuelle Hautreinigung und -pflege. Viele Menschen empfinden durch die regelmäßige Anwendung von Hautpflegeprodukten eine subjektive Erhöhung ihres Wohlbefindens, ganz im Sinne der Weltgesundheitsorganisation (WHO)-Definition für „Gesundheit“ vom 22.07. 1946: „Gesundheit ist der Zustand des völligen körperlichen, geistigen und sozialen Wohlbefindens und nicht nur das Freisein von Krankheit und Gebrechen”. Zudem konnten Studien belegen, dass Individuen mit einem attraktiveren Äußeren distinkte soziale Vorteile (sowohl privat als auch im Beruf) gegenüber subjektiv als weniger attraktiv empfundenen Menschen haben [2, 29, 78, 80]. Dies trifft in gewissem Umfang auch für ältere Menschen zu, die sich ein jüngeres Aussehen erhalten haben. Eine andere Untersuchung konnte z. B. zeigen, dass Menschen ohne Akne eine größere Chance haben, eine berufliche Anstellung zu finden als Aknepatienten [36]. Eine Reihe von Studien zeigten auf, dass dermatokosmetische Verfahren helfen können, einige der Vorteile, die physisch attraktivere und jünger aussehende Menschen genießen, zu erlangen [63, 78, 80].
Chapter
The copper-binding tripeptide GHK (glycyl-l-histidyl-l-lysine) is a naturally occurring plasma peptide widely used in skin care products. It is especially popular in antiaging cosmetic formulations due to its various and well-established positive biological effects on aging skin. It has been established that GHK-Cu improves wound healing and tissue regeneration and stimulates collagen and decorin production. GHK-Cu also supports angiogenesis and nerve outgrowth, improves the biological condition of aging skin and hair and possesses DNA repair, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory effects. In addition, it increases cellular stemness and secretion of trophic factors by mesenchymal stem cells. GHK’s antioxidant actions have been demonstrated in vitro and in animal studies. They include blocking the formation of reactive oxygen and carbonyl species, detoxifying toxic products of lipid peroxidation such as acrolein, protecting keratinocytes from lethal UVB radiation, and blocking hepatic damage by dichloromethane radicals. In recent studies, GHK has also been found to switch cellular gene expression from a diseased state to a healthier state for certain cancers and for chronic obstructive pulmonary disease (COPD). The human gene expression actions provide a unique view of the complex and intricate gene actions underlying visible changes in human skin. This chapter reviews biological and gene data related to the positive antiaging effects of GHK on human skin.
Article
During the past years, several new dermo cosmetic active ingredients have been developed to improve symptoms of skin aging. Besides consistent sun protection, retinol and anti-oxidants, most recently, also in Germany, trace elements have been introduced. The presented open and controlled study on 40 healthy volunteers showed that topical application of copper tripeptide increased skin thickness in 20 MHz-Sonography, improved hydration of the upper skin layers - measured via corneometry - and showed stronger smoothing of the skin compared to retinol and placebo - documented by Visio-Scan™. Copper tripeptide containing externals pose a further option - also for sensitive skin - to correct first signs of clinical aging.
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In 2000, individuals over the age of 65 represented 13% of the US population; this is expected to increase to 20% by 2030. This preponderance of older individuals over younger ones will transform the shape of the age distribution graph into a rectangle rather than the current pyramid observed [1].
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Skin aging is due to extrinsic and intrinsic factors that converge, leading to macro- and microscopic alterations. Histologically, there are a loss of dermal collagen and decreased lipid production, leading to a thinning of the skin. This process is enhanced by the effect of cumulative sun exposure and oxidative damage caused by pollution, stress, and smoking. These changes manifest as wrinkles, loss of elasticity, dryness, and texture changes in mature skin. Within this reality, and the pursuit to reduce the effects of time, emerged cosmeceuticals, topical products which, in contact with skin, can cause structural and/or functional changes, not for therapy but for possible prevention and not restricted exclusively to beautification. Cosmeceuticals are still the most popular option to improve the appearance of the skin and delay aging. Although there are many examples of merely cosmetic action, manufacturers of most successful cosmeceuticals have been studying the aging process and turned this knowledge into formulations that can make a difference from a cellular point of view. In this chapter, we talk about the different classes of cosmeceuticals and how they can contribute to postmenopausal skin.
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Human aging is marked by increased inflammation, a decline in tissue repair, and a deterioration of organ function. Externally, this diminution leads to wrinkles, photodamage, looser skin, bone loss, and other signs of aging. Growing old is also accompanied by a lessened resistance to infections. The human peptide GHK (glycyl-l-histidyl-l-lysine), as its copper 2+ complex (GHK-Cu), acts as an anti-aging activator for the late stages of tissue repair while also suppressing inflammatory cytokines. This unique molecule also increases resistance to infections. Results of an analysis of its actions on wound repair point to the existence of a biochemical copper switch that separates inflammatory and anti-inflammatory conditions. GHK may provide the key to improving organ rebuilding and maintenance. Furthermore, GHK-Cu’s actions on stem cells suggest that it might be used systemically to drive the progression of dormant stem cells within organs into the types of differentiated cells needed for organ rebuilding and maintenance. It is also possible that it could increase the therapeutic success of externally administered stem cells.
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As aesthetic nurses are responsible for offering evidence-based skin care advice to patients, it is important that they fully understand the ingredients and formulations at their disposal. This is the first of a series of articles looking at the skin care ingredients available to nurses in aesthetic practice. The approach of this series is two-fold: firstly an in-depth look at the target ingredient or cosmeceutical category, covering topics such as development and technology, mechanisms of action, side effects and variations; and, secondly, exploring vital points of patient communication that need to be relayed during consultations. Part one of this series will explore, what peptides are, how they work, what their effects are, why they are becoming increasingly common in skin care, and how they can be successfully integrated into patients’ skin care regimens.
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Three decades of extensively research on biological activity of natural tripeptide Gly-His-Lys has established the substructure for development of its novel derivatives which give hope for widening the application in the field of medicine and dermatology. Synthetic approaches to obtain Gly-His-Lys and its modifications provide both classical solution method and solid-phase peptide synthesis, usage of different protecting groups and methods of peptide bond formation. In our present review, we give weight to the methods of the synthesis described in the literature and present the aspects of Gly-His-Lys structure modifications that played a key role in the science research.
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  To elucidate the scientific state of the art with respect to the role of nutrition in skin ageing, nine experts from different disciplines discussed the role of micronutrients on ‘oxidative and premature skin ageing’. In this 25th Hohenheim Consensus Meeting, 13 questions were discussed and, based on published valid data, answered by mutual agreement. The consensus answers achieved during the meeting are justified by a scientific background text. The importance of in vitro and in vivo models regarding oxidative and premature skin ageing was critically evaluated. There was a special focus on prevention and intervention of skin ageing with nutrition. Finally, the paper summarizes the scientific background from different areas related to oxidative and premature skin ageing.
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Tissue remodeling follows the initial phase of wound healing and stops inflammatory and scar-forming processes, then restores the normal tissue morphology. The human peptide Gly-(L-His)-(L-Lys) or GHK, has a copper 2+ (Cu(2+)) affinity similar to the copper transport site on albumin and forms GHK-Cu, a complex with Cu(2+). These two molecules activate a plethora of remodeling related processes: (1) chemoattraction of repair cells such as macrophages, mast cells, capillary cells; (2) anti-inflammatory actions (suppression of free radicals, thromboxane formation, release of oxidizing iron, transforming growth factor beta-1, tumor necrosis factor alpha and protein glycation while increasing superoxide dismutase, vessel vasodilation, blocking ultraviolet damage to skin keratinocytes and improving fibroblast recovery after X-ray treatments); (3) increases protein synthesis of collagen, elastin, metalloproteinases, anti-proteases, vascular endothelial growth factor, fibroblast growth factor 2, nerve growth factor, neutrotropins 3 and 4, and erythropoietin; (4) increases the proliferation of fibroblasts and keratinocytes; nerve outgrowth, angiogenesis, and hair follicle size. GHK-Cu stimulates wound healing in numerous models and in humans. Controlled studies on aged skin demonstrated that it tightens skin, improves elasticity and firmness, reduces fine lines, wrinkles, photodamage and hyperpigmentation. GHK-Cu also improves hair transplant success, protects hepatic tissue from tetrachloromethane poisoning, blocks stomach ulcer development, and heals intestinal ulcers and bone tissue. These results are beginning to define the complex biochemical processes that regulate tissue remodeling.
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Many cosmeseuticals and drugs are available to treat and augment therapy for the aging face. Patients frequently have misconceptions about the use of these agents, and it is important that today's cosmetic surgeon know how to maximize the benefits while minimizing side effects. The role of retinoids, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, bleaching agents, moisturizers, and sunscreens are reviewed as they relate to skin rejuvenation.
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Topical therapies can be used as a solo treatment or as an adjunct to the various surgical options to improve upon and maintain the desired anti-aging results. They may also be used as a preventative therapy in younger men and women. Few drugs are currently marketed for the treatment and prevention of skin aging, whereas many cosmeceuticals,the fastest growing segment of the skin-care market, and herbal remedies are touted in the lay press. More than ever, patients are looking for a magical elixir that is easy to use,effective, and inexpensive. The more commonly used products are covered in this article.
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This study evaluated the effects of a manganese peptide complex in the treatment of various signs of cutaneous facial photodamage. Individuals used a facial serum formulation containing the manganese peptide complex Manganese Tripeptide-1 twice a day for up to 12 weeks. At the end of the treatment period, the individuals and a blinded investigator noted improvement in the appearance of several signs of cutaneous photodamage. Predominant among the parameters showing improvement were those associated with hyperpigmentation. In general, at the end of 12 weeks of treatment, photodamage ranking moved from moderate to mild. Treatment was well tolerated with no significant cutaneous inflammation induced by the manganese peptide complex.
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