Article

Evaluation of dermatological effects of cosmetic formulations containing Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract and vitamins

October 2008
Food and Chemical Toxicology 46(11):3493-500

DOI:10.1016/j.fct.2008.08.028

Source
PubMed

Authors:

Lorena Gaspar

University of São Paulo

Mirela Gianeti

University of São Paulo

Patricia Campos

University of São Paulo

Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract (SCE) is used in cosmetics since it can act in oxidative stress and improve skin conditions. This study investigated dermatological effects of cosmetic formulations containing SCE and/or vitamins A, C and E. The formulation studied was supplemented or not (F1: vehicle) with vitamins A, C and E esters (F2) or with SCE (F3) or with the combination of vitamins and SCE (F4). Formulations were patch tested on back skin of volunteers. For efficacy studies, formulations were applied on volunteers and transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin moisture (SM), skin microrelief (SMR) and free radicals protection were analysed after 3h, 15 and 30 days of application. Volunteers were also asked about efficacy perception. It was observed that F4 provoked a slight erythema in one volunteer. All formulations enhanced forearm SM. Only F3 and F4 presented long term effects on SMR and showed higher texture values; F3 had the highest brightness values. Our results suggest that vitamins and SCE showed effects in SM and SMR. Only formulations containing SC had long term effects in the improvement of SMR. Thus, these kinds of evaluations are very important in cosmetics development to evaluate the best risk and benefit correlation.

Korean Ginseng Berry Polysaccharide Enhances Immunomodulation Activities of Peritoneal Macrophages in Mice with Cyclophosphamide-Induced Immunosuppression

Article

Full-text available

Mar 2023
J Microbiol Biotechnol

Korean ginseng (Panax ginseng C. A. Meyer), a member of the Araliaceae family, is known as a traditional medicine plant to have a wide range of health properties. Polysaccharides constitute a major component of Korean ginseng, and its berries exhibit immune modulating properties. The purpose of this study was to investigate the immune effects of crude polysaccharide (GBPC) extracted from Korean ginseng berry on peritoneal macrophages in mice with cyclophosphamide (CY)- induced immunosuppression. BALB/c mice were divided into eight groups: normal control, normal control + CY, levamisole + CY, ginseng + CY, and four concentrations of 50, 100, 250, and 500 mg/kg BW/day of GBPC + CY. Mice were orally administered with samples for 10 days. Immunosuppression was established by treating mice with CY (80 mg/kg BW/day) through intraperitoneal injection on days 4 to 6. The immune function of peritoneal macrophages was then evaluated. Oral administration of 500 mg/kg BW/day GBPC resulted in proliferation, NO production, and phagocytosis at 100%, 88%, and 91%, respectively, close to the levels of the normal group (100%) of peritoneal macrophages. In CY-treated mice, GBPC of 50-500 mg/kg BW/day also dose-dependently stimulated the proliferation, NO production, and phagocytosis at 56-100%, 47-88%, and 53-91%, respectively, with expression levels of immune-associated genes, such as iNOS, COX-2, IL-1β, IL-6, and TNF-α, of about 0.32 to 2.87-fold, compared to those in the CY group. GBPC could be a potential immunomodulatory material to control peritoneal macrophages under an immunosuppressive condition.

Production and Characterization of Cosmetic Nanoemulsions Containing Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill Extract as Moisturizing Agent

Article

Full-text available

Feb 2015
MOLECULES

This study aimed to produce and characterize an oil in water (O/W) nanoemulsion containing Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill hydroglycolic extract, as well as evaluate its preliminary and accelerated thermal stability and moisturizing efficacy. The formulations containing 0.5% of xanthan gum (FX) and 0.5% of xanthan gum and 1% of Opuntia ficus-indica MILL extract (FXE) were white, homogeneus and fluid in aspect. Both formulations were stable during preliminary and accelerated stability tests. FX and FXE presented a pH compatible to skin pH (4.5-6.0); droplet size varying from 92.2 to 233.6 nm; a polydispersion index (PDI) around 0.200 and a zeta potential from -26.71 to -47.01 mV. FXE was able to increase the water content of the stratum corneum for 5 h after application on the forearm. The O/W nanoemulsions containing 1% of Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill extract presented suitable stability for at least for 60 days. Besides, this formulation was able to increase the water content of stratum corneum, showing its moisturizing efficacy.

Plant extracts and natural compounds used against UVB-induced photoaging

Article

Full-text available

Aug 2017
BIOGERONTOLOGY

Skin is continuously exposed to a variety of environmental stresses, including ultraviolet (UV) radiation. UVB is an inherent component of sunlight that crosses the epidermis and reaches the upper dermis, leading to increased oxidative stress, activation of inflammatory response and accumulation of DNA damage among other effects. The increase in UVB radiation on earth due to the destruction of stratospheric ozone poses a major environmental threat to the skin, increasing the risk of damage with long-term consequences, such as photoaging and photocarcinogenesis. Extracts from plants and natural compounds have been historically used in traditional medicine in the form of teas and ointments but the effect of most of these compounds has yet to be verified. Regarding the increasing concern of the population with issues related to quality of life and appearance, the cosmetic market for anti-aging and photoprotective products based on natural compounds is continuously growing, and there is increasing requirement of expansion on research in this field. In this review we summarized the most current and relevant information concerning plant extracts and natural compounds that are able to protect or mitigate the deleterious effects caused by photoaging in different experimental models.

Protein quality control in UVB-induced senescence of human dermal fibroblasts

Article

Aug 2017
EXP GERONTOL

Trophic effect of a methanol yeast extract on 3T3 fibroblast cells

Article

Full-text available

Nov 2014
J COSMET SCI

With regard to the increase of human life expectancy, interest for topical treatments aimed to counteract skin aging is still growing. Hence, research for bioactive compounds able to stimulate skin fibroblast activity is an attractive topic. Having previously described the effects of a new methanol yeast extract on growth and metabolic activity of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, we studied its effects on 3T3 fibroblasts to evaluate its potential antiaging property. This investigation demonstrates that this extract increases proliferation as well as migration of 3T3 cells and decreases their entrance in senescence and apoptosis phases. Altogether, these results open new perspectives for the formulation of innovative antiaging topical treatments.

A Single-Center Study Evaluating the Effects of a Topical Serum Combining Postbiotics, Peptides, and Botanical Extracts on Skin

Article

Full-text available

Jun 2023

Background Aging, influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors, leads to visible skin changes such as dryness, surface roughness, and loss of luminosity. Proper skin care can mitigate some of these effects, with topical combination products offering support through complementary mechanisms. Objectives To test efficacy and safety of GSYBS-7 (Goop Beauty Youth-Boost Peptide Serum; Goop Inc., Santa Monica, CA), a topical postbiotic and botanical combination serum, used twice daily on facial skin for 6 weeks. Methods In this 19-patient pilot study, the primary efficacy measure was improvement on the Global Ranking Scale (GRS) at 42 days. A 12-point patient satisfaction survey and the serum's effect on healing after ablative laser treatment served as secondary and exploratory measures, respectively. Results Statistically significant improvements in all GRS domains were observed as early as day 7 with ongoing improvement up to day 42. A >1-point improvement was observed for dehydration (1.8; 95% CI, 1.5-2.2), visible pores (1.6; 95% CI, 1.3-2.0), surface roughness (1.6; 95% CI, 1.3-1.9), imbalance (1.3; 95% CI, .9-1.7), static wrinkles (1.3; 95% CI, .9-1.6), pigmentation (1.3; 95% CI, 1.0-1.5), and vasculature (1.2; 95% CI, .8-1.5). Independent photographic review and patient satisfaction surveys corroborated these findings. At day 42, 94.4% of patients were very satisfied with the results, and 88.9% would recommend GSYBS-7 to family and friends. No adverse events were reported, and 100% of patients indicated that GSYBS-7 was gentle enough for everyday use. Conclusions GSYBS-7 appears to be an effective and well-tolerated combination topical for the management of age-related and environment-induced skin changes. Level of Evidence: 4

Mécanique de la paroi cellulaire : Régimes linéaire et non linéaire

Thesis

Full-text available

Nov 2022

Zeinab Awada

All living organisms, including walled cells, exhibit key characteristics such as differentiation, growth, and reproduction. An understanding of these features in normal and/or pathological contexts is inextricably linked to the cell-wall ; an elastic sturdy structure which constitutes the outermost boundary of the cell. The cell-wall affords mechanical protection, dictates cell shape, and provides a counter force against the inner turgor pressure. This thesis deals specifically with Saccharomyces cerevisiae yeast which constitutes a well-established model system to decipher fundamental processes relevant to eukaryotic cells. The first part of this thesis addresses the cell-wall mechanical properties. To this end, a viscoelasticmodel has been developed within the finite strain range due to the soft nature of the yeasts. Such cells were considered to be thin walled, liquid-filled, axisymmetric structures. To describe the delayed response of the cell, a hyperelastic behavior was coupled with a creep-like potential where the evolution equation of the strain-like internal variables is in accordance with the continuum thermodynamics requirements. The inner fluid of the cell is taken to be incompressible and is represented by a normal pressure load on the inner surface of the cell-wall. Follower loads are used at this stage, the amplitudes of which are implicitly accounted for by the use of the constant inner volume constraint. Using a combined theoretical, numerical and experimental approach, the viscoelastic cell-wall parameters have been identified. Different mechanical properties of the cell-wall have been found by the use, on the one hand, of the atomic force microscopy and, on the other hand, of a micromanipulation-like technique. The necessityof a cell-wall representation by at least two sets of layers with sensitively different mechanical properties has been established. Numerical simulations have been conducted concomitantly in solid and shell approaches to highlight the efficiency of the proposed framework. The second part of this thesis focuses on the growth of budding yeast powered by the turgor pressure. A theoretical model has been developed in a solid approach to describe the emergence of the bud and its evolution over time. From the purely mechanical point of view, to control bud formation, two essential parameters have been involved in the evolution equation : a characteristic time, and a stress-like threshold. Afterwards, the model has been extended to the shell approach. Later on, the modelling framework has been improved by simulating the contractile ring formed at the base of the protrusion region as a natural growth phenomenon. The whole framework has been qualitatively evaluated by the use of a finite element modeling.

Evaluation of Physicochemical and Microbial Properties of Extracts from Wine Lees Waste of Matelica's Verdicchio and Their Applications in Novel Cosmetic Products

Article

Full-text available

Mar 2023

Wine lees are sediments deposited on the walls and bottom of barrels resulting from wine fermentation and mainly consist of yeasts. Saccharomyces cerevisiae extracts, rich in beneficial components for the skin, have already been used in cosmesis, while wine lees have not been well exploited by the cosmetics industry yet. The aim of this work was the full characterization of the wine lees from Verdicchio’s wine, with the aim to exploit it as a beneficial ingredient in new cosmetic products. After mapping the microbial composition of the sample waste, the parameters for the sonication extraction process were optimized and the physicochemical properties of the extract were analyzed. The efficiency of the aqueous extraction—and in particular the yeast cell lysis necessary for the release of proteins from the cell—was assessed by evaluating cell shape and size, and protein release, under scanning electron microscopy (SEM), dynamic light scattering (DLS) and Bradford’s protein assays. Thus, the total phenol content and antioxidant capacity of the supernatant recovered from native and sonicated lees were determined by Folin–Ciocalteu’s and spectrophotometric assays, respectively. To quantify the heavy metals and highlight the presence of microelements beneficial for the skin, inductively coupled plasma-mass spectrometry (ICP-MS) was applied. In vitro metabolic activity and cytotoxicity were tested on both HaCat keratinocytes and human gingival fibroblasts, showing that wine lees are safe for skin’s cells. The results show that sonicated lees appear to be more interesting than native ones as a consequence of the release of the active ingredients from the cells. Due to the high antioxidant capacity, content of beneficial elements for skin and an appropriate microbiologic profile, wine lees were included in five new solid cosmetic products and tested for challenge test, compatibility with human skin, sensory analysis, trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) and sebometry.

Comparative Analysis of Mannans Extraction Processes from Spent Yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae

Article

Full-text available

Nov 2022

Mannans are outstanding polysaccharides that have gained exponential interest over the years. These polysaccharides may be extracted from the cell wall of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, and recovered from the brewing or synthetic biology industries, among others. In this work, several extraction processes—physical, chemical and enzymatic—were studied, all aiming to obtain mannans from spent yeast S. cerevisiae. Their performance was evaluated in terms of yield, mannose content and cost. The resultant extracts were characterized in terms of their structure (FT-IR, PXRD and SEM), physicochemical properties (color, molecular weight distribution, sugars, protein, ash and water content) and thermal stability (DSC). The biological properties were assessed through the screening of prebiotic activity in Lactobacillus plantarum and Bifidobacterium animalis. The highest yield (58.82%) was achieved by using an alkaline thermal process, though the correspondent mannose content was low. The extract obtained by autolysis followed by a hydrothermal step resulted in the highest mannose content (59.19%). On the other hand, the extract obtained through the enzymatic hydrolysis displayed the highest prebiotic activity. This comparative study is expected to lay the scientific foundation for the obtention of well-characterized mannans from yeast, which will pave the way for their application in various fields.

Hot Water Extract from Saccharomyces cerevisiae Scavenges DPPH and Reduces Senescence Associated b-galactosidase (SA-b-Gal) in Human Dermal Fibroblasts

Article

Aug 2021

Extracts from Saccharomyces cerevisiae are incorporated in a lot of cosmetic products on the market, but the benefits of the extracts lack scientific reports. We tested the toxicity and anti-senescent activity of an extract from S. cerevisiae on an in vitro model, the human dermal fibroblast (HDF) cell culture. We chronicled the development of the extraction method and the subsequent biochemical assays. We used two extraction methods which were hot water extraction and rapid spin. The optimum duration and growth phase to harvest S. cerevisiae were determined by 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) assay, which also proved that the extracts exhibited antioxidant activity. Hot water extract showed a higher antioxidant activity, and not toxic to HDF. When subjected to senescence-associated β-galactosidase (SA-β-Gal) assay, the hot water extract significantly reduced the expression of SA-β-Gal in pre-senescent (passage 20, 30 < population doubling < 40) and senescent (passage 30, population doubling > 50) HDF. In conclusion, S. cerevisiae hot water extract possessed antioxidant activity by scavenging DPPH, and anti-senescent activity by reducing the expression of SA-β-Gal in pre-senescent and senescent HDF.

Axisymmetrical viscoelastic shell modeling of yeasts under large deformation with a two-layer cell-wall approach

Article

Full-text available

Sep 2022

Based on the use of shell kinematics, a theoretical model is developed to predict time-dependent responses of Saccharomyces cerevisiae yeasts. These cells are herein described as thin-walled shells with axisymmetrical shapes and, due to their soft nature, the finite strain range is a priori assumed. Accordingly, a finite viscoelastic modeling is assumed for the cell-wall. An Ogden-type energy function is adopted together with a creep-like potential, this latter to describe the way overstresses vanish at thermodynamic equilibrium. The cell-volume conservation due to the inner incompressible fluid is accounted for via an update procedure of the Uzawa type. Baker’s yeast-wall is assumed to be homogeneous and isotropic in a first approach. However, it seems that this simplification is too questionable. The necessity of a cell-wall representation by at least two sets of layers with sensitively different mechanical properties is established. Nanoindentation by atomic force microscopy must be complemented with micromanipulation experiments for a better characterization of the now heterogeneous cell-wall. Numerical simulations highlight the efficiency of the proposed framework.

Formula Development of Red Palm (Elaeis guineensis) Fruit Extract Loaded with Solid Lipid Nanoparticles Containing Creams and Its Anti-Aging Efficacy in Healthy Volunteers

Article

Full-text available

Dec 2021

Palm fruits (Elaeis guineensis) comprise antioxidants that can be used as skin care agents. This study developed a cosmeceutical cream containing E. guineensis extract, loaded with solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs), and assessed its efficacy on female volunteers. The E. guineensis extract exhibited a good antioxidant activity with high levels of vitamin E, β-carotene, and palmitic acid. Day and night creams containing E. guineensis fruit extract, loaded with SLNs, were formulated and exhibited acceptable physical characteristics and good stability. Subsequently, their clinical efficacy and safety were evaluated on female volunteers. Both creams were non-irritating and had good cutaneous compatibility. Skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin elasticity, melanin index, and skin texture were measured before and 30 min after the first application, as well as after 7, 14, and 30 days of daily application. A satisfactory survey was implemented using a questionnaire, and volunteer satisfaction scores were high for the product’s performance. Overall, the results showed that skin hydration, TEWL, cutaneous elasticity, and melanin index were improved, compared to the baseline data, after 30 days. Thus, the formulated facial day and night creams made the skin moist, reduced wrinkles, increased elasticity, and cleared the skin to the consumers’ satisfaction.

Recent advances in the discovery of novel marine natural products and mycosporine-like amino acid UV-absorbing compounds

Article

Full-text available

Oct 2021
APPL MICROBIOL BIOT

Nedeljka N Rosic

Bioactive compounds from marine environments represent a rich source of bioproducts for potential use in medicine and biotechnology. To discover and identify novel marine natural products (MNPs), evaluating diverse biological activities is critical. Increased sensitivity and specificity of omics technologies, especially next-generation high-throughput sequencing combined with liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry and nuclear magnetic resonance, are speeding up the discovery of novel bioactive compounds. Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) isolated from many marine microorganisms are among highly promising MNPs characterized by ultraviolet radiation (UV) absorbing capacities and are recognized as a potential source of ecologically friendly sunscreens. MAAs absorb damaging UV radiation with maximum absorption in the range of 310–360 nm, including both UVA and UVB ranges. MAAs are also characterized by other biological activities such as anti-oxidant, anti-cancer, and anti-inflammatory activities. The application of modern omics approaches promoted some recent developments in our understanding of MAAs’ functional significance and diversity. This review will summarize the various modern tools that could be applied during the identification and characterization of MNPs, including MAAs, to further their innovative applications. Key points • New omics technologies are speeding up the discovery of novel bio-products • The vast diversity of bioactive capacities of marine natural products described • Marine microorganisms as a source of environmentally friendly sunscreens

Krom (III) Klorür Tuzuna Maruz Kalan Saccharomyces cerevisiae’nın Stres Yanıtı

Article

Full-text available

Aug 2021

Bu çalışmada, iki farklı dozda (10 ve 40 µg/mL) krom III klorür (CrCl3.6H2O) tuzuna maruz kalan maya (Saccharomyces cerevisiae)’ların ortamına 10, 15 ve 20 µg/mL C vitamini katıldı. Daha sonra mayaların 12, 24 ve 36. saat sonra canlılık oranları belirlendi. Bu mayaların A, E, C vitaminleri, glutatyon (GSH ve GSSG) ve malondialdehit (MDA) miktarları HPLC ile tayin edildi. Artan krom dozu ve süreye bağlı olarak canlılık oranlarında, GSH, A, E ve C vitamini miktarlarında azalma, GSSG ve MDA miktarlarında ise artmaların olduğu belirlendi. Ayrıca artan C vitamini dozuna bağlı olarak canlılık oranları, GSH, A, E ve C vitamini miktarlarında artma, GSSG ve MDA miktarlarında azalmaların olduğu gözlendi. Artan krom dozuyla mayalarda metabolik strese bağlı olarak serbest radikal oluşumunda artış olduğu, bunun indirekt göstergesi olan MDA miktarında artışlar ve GSH/GSSG oranında ise azalmalar olduğu belirlendi. Tüm bu bulgulardan kromun; serbest radikal oluşumunu artırdığı ve ortama ilave edilen C vitamininin antioksidan özelliğinden dolayı, serbest radikal oluşumunu azalttığı gözlenmiştir.

Antioxidant potential of Pfaffia glomerata and Arrabidaea chica extracts combination

Article

Full-text available

Apr 2021

Several therapeutic benefits of medicinal plants are attributed to antioxidant properties, since antioxidant compounds play an important role in the prevention of various diseases and aging. Many products have synergistic action from combinations of plant extracts that contain natural antioxidants. The present study aimed to evaluate the synergistic effect of Pfaffia glomerata extract with Arrabidaea chica extract for antioxidant action. In the study the extract of the inflorescences of P. glomerata and the extract of the leaves of A. chica were used. The synergism between P. glomerata extract and A. chica extract was evaluated using the ratio between experimental and theoretical antioxidant activity, which was determined using the DPPH method and the potential total reactive antioxidant method (TRAP). The combination of P. glomerata extract and A. chica extract showed a synergistic effect, in which the antioxidant property of this combination was substantially superior to the sum of the individual antioxidant effects. This demonstrates that the combined extracts can be important for the development of products that have a high antioxidant potential.

Beta Glucan: Supplement or Drug? From Laboratory to Clinical Trials

Article

Full-text available

Mar 2019

Beta Glucan: Supplement or Grug? From Laboratory to Clinical Trials

Article

Full-text available

Mar 2019
MOLECULES

Glucans are part of a group of biologically active natural molecules and are steadily gaining strong attention not only as an important food supplement, but also as an immunostimulant and potential drug. This paper represents an up-to-date review of glucans (β-1,3-glucans) and their role in various immune reactions and the treatment of cancer. With more than 80 clinical trials evaluating their biological effects, the question is not if glucans will move from food supplement to widely accepted drug, but how soon.

UVA and UVB Photoprotective Capabilities of Topical Formulations Containing Mycosporine-like Amino Acids (MAAs) through Different Biological Effective Protection Factors (BEPFs)

Article

Full-text available

Jan 2019
MAR DRUGS

The safety and stability of synthetic UV-filters and the procedures for evaluating the photoprotective capability of commercial sunscreens are under continuous review. The influence of pH and temperature stressors on the stability of certain Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) isolated at high purity levels was examined. MAAs were highly stable at room temperature during 24 h at pH 4.5–8.5. At 50 °C, MAAs showed instability at pH 10.5 while at 85 °C, progressive disappearances were observed for MAAs through the studied pH range. In alkaline conditions, their degradation was much faster. Mycosporine-serinol and porphyra-334 (+shinorine) were the most stable MAAs under the conditions tested. They were included in four cosmetically stable topical sunscreens, of which the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and other Biological Effective Protection Factors (BEPFs) were calculated. The formulation containing these MAAs showed similar SPF and UVB-BEPFs values as those of the reference sunscreen, composed of synthetic UV absorbing filters in similar percentages, while UVA-BEPFs values were slightly lower. Current in vitro data strongly suggest that MAAs, as natural and safe UV-absorbing and antioxidant compounds, have high potential for protection against the diverse harmful effects of solar UV radiation. In addition, novel complementary in vitro tests for evaluation of commercial sunscreens efficacy are proposed.

African Journal of Microbiology Research An evaluation of the effect of graphene oxide on Saccharomyces cerevisiae

Article

Full-text available

Dec 2018
AFR J MICROBIOL RES

Pengembangan Formula dan Uji Stabilitas Fisik-pH Sediaan Gel Facial Wash yang Mengandung Ekstrak Etanol Kulit Kayu Kesambi

Article

Full-text available

Jan 2018

Kesambi (Schleichera oleosa (L.) Oken.) merupakan tanaman khas provinsi Nusa TenggaraTimur. Pada esktrak etanol kulit kayu Kesambi terbukti mengandung triterpenoid yang berfungsi sebagaiantimikroba dalam melawan gram negatif dan positif. Sediaan facial wash sebagai pembersih wajahmerupakan produk yang umum digunakan pada kehidupan sehari-hari, namun dengan karakteristikekstrak etanol kulit kayu kesambi dan karakteristik formula standard facial wash yang berbeda akanmenjadi tantangan dalam memformulasikannya menjadi sebuah produk yang stabil. Pada penelitian inidikembangkan 9 formula (formula 1 s.d formula 9) facial wash yang mengandung ekstrak etanol kulit kayukesambi yang dievaluasi organoleptis dan viskositasnya. Selanjutnya ditentukan 3 formula terbaik yaituformula 7, 8, dan 9 untuk diuji stabilitas dipercepat menggunakan climatic chamber pada suhu 40 ± 2˚C dankelembaban relatif 75 ± 5% dengan titik pengamatan pada hari ke-0, 8, dan 30 sebanyak tiga replikasi. Tigaformula dievaluasi berdasarkan organoleptis, viskositas, tingkat busa, daya sebar dan pH selama uji stabilitas.Selain itu, dilakukan modifikasi pada konsentrasi gelling agent pada formula yang dirancang, yaitu 0,5%;0,7%; dan 0,8%. Berdasarkan uji stabilitas yang dilakukan, ketiga formula terbaik mengalami peningkatansignifikan pada parameter viskositas dan penurunan pada daya sebar akibat penguapan air yang terjadipada sediaan selama 30 hari penyimpanan, namun ketiga formula tersebut memiliki pH yang stabil, dimanapH sediaan tidak berubah secara bermakna setelah 30 hari penyimpanan. Namun ketiga formula dapatmempertahankan busa selama 30 hari penyimpanan. Perbedaan konsentrasi gelling agent berpengaruhterhadap viskositas yang dihasilkan. Berdasarkan pengamatan yang dilakukan, dapat disimpulkan formula7 adalah formula terbaik berdasarkan parameter organoleptis, viskositas, tingkat busa, daya sebar, dan pH.

Depletion of Saccharomyces cerevisiae in psoriasis patients, restored by Dimethylfumarate therapy (DMF)

Article

Full-text available

May 2017
PLOS ONE

Background Psoriasis and inflammatory bowel disease (IBD) are chronic inflammatory diseases sharing similar pathogenic pathways. Intestinal microbial changes such as a decrease of bakers’ yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae have been reported in IBD, suggesting the presence of a gut-skin axis. Objective To investigate whether the S. cerevisiae abundance was altered in psoriasis patients versus healthy controls, and whether dimethylfumarate (DMF) interacted with this yeast. Methods Using qPCR, faecal samples were compared between psoriasis patients without DMF (n = 30), psoriasis patients with DMF (n = 28), and healthy controls (n = 32). Results Faecal S. cerevisiae abundance was decreased in psoriasis compared to healthy controls (p<0.001). Interestingly, DMF use raised S. cerevisiae levels (p<0.001). Gastrointestinal adverse-effects of DMF were correlated with a higher S. cerevisiae abundance (p = 0.010). In vitro, a direct effect of DMF on S. cerevisiae growth was observed. In addition, anti-Saccharomyces cerevisiae antibodies were not elevated in psoriasis. Conclusion The abundance of baker’s yeast S. cerevisiae is decreased in psoriasis patients, but appears to be restored upon DMF use. S. cerevisiae is generally classified as a yeast with beneficial immunomodulatory properties, but may also be involved in the occurrence of DMF’s gastrointestinal adverse-effects. Potentially, DMF might be a new therapy for IBD.

Antimicrobial, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory assessment of a phytocosmetic produced with glycinin peptides

Article

Full-text available

Dec 2016

INTRODUCTION: Phytocosmetic are gaining increasing attention from consumers who search for alternatives for the maintenance and protection of the skin. This article reports formulation of a phytocosmetic derived from defatted soybean flour, an emulsion base that is hydrolyzed from the glycinin protein (1000 µg/ g). MATERIAL AND METHODS: Test for stability, microbiological control and biological activities,antimicrobial (agar diffusion method), antioxidant (method of ABTS/TEAC radicals) and anti-inflammatory (method of hyaluronidase enzyme) properties were condusted. RESULTS: Indicated that the phytocosmetic was stable and had low indices of microorganisms, according to Resolution 481/99. The bioactivity of the glycinin peptides was not altered or harmed by the other components of the emulsion. For the antimicrobial activity, the bacteria E. coli, S. aureus and P. acnes had values of 30.5 mm, 28 mm and 25 mm halos, respectively. For the antioxidant activity, the result was of 25.1 TEAC and the anti-inflammatory activity was measured at 83.4% inhibition of hyaluronidase enzyme. CONCLUSION: The study showed that the formulated phytocosmetic has great potential for topical use, it is comparable to other anti-aging cosmetics for daily skin care with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. INTRODUCTION: Phytocosmetic are gaining increasing attention from consumers who search for alternatives for the maintenance and protection of the skin. This article reports formulation of a phytocosmetic derived from defatted soybean flour, an emulsion base that is hydrolyzed from the glycinin protein (1000 µg/ g). MATERIAL AND METHODS: Test for stability, microbiological control and biological activities,antimicrobial (agar diffusion method), antioxidant (method of ABTS/TEAC radicals) and anti-inflammatory (method of hyaluronidase enzyme) properties were condusted. RESULTS: Indicated that the phytocosmetic was stable and had low indices of microorganisms, according to Resolution 481/99. The bioactivity of the glycinin peptides was not altered or harmed by the other components of the emulsion. For the antimicrobial activity, the bacteria E. coli, S. aureus and P. acnes had values of 30.5 mm, 28 mm and 25 mm halos, respectively. For the antioxidant activity, the result was of 25.1 TEAC and the anti-inflammatory activity was measured at 83.4% inhibition of hyaluronidase enzyme. CONCLUSION: The study showed that the formulated phytocosmetic has great potential for topical use, it is comparable to other anti-aging cosmetics for daily skin care with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties.

Topical Formulation Containing Beeswax-Based Nanoparticles Improved In Vivo Skin Barrier Function

Article

Full-text available

Feb 2017
AAPS PHARMSCITECH

Lipid nanoparticles have shown many advantages for treatment/prevention of skin disorders with damaged skin barrier function. Beeswax is a favorable candidate for the development of nanosystems in the cosmetic and dermatological fields because of its advantages for the development of products for topical application. In the present study, beeswax-based nanoparticles (BNs) were prepared using the hot melt microemulsion technique and incorporated to a gel-cream formulation. The formulation was subsequently evaluated for its rheological stability and effect on stratum corneum water content (SCWC) and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) using in vivo biophysical techniques. BNs resulted in mean particle size of 95.72 ± 9.63 nm and zeta potential of −9.85 ± 0.57 mV. BN-loaded formulation showed shear thinning behavior, well adjusted by the Herschel-Bulkley model, and a small thixotropy index that were stable for 28 days at different temperatures. BN-loaded formulation was also able to simultaneously decrease the TEWL and increase the SCWC values 28 days after treatment. In conclusion, the novel beeswax-based nanoparticles showed potential for barrier recovery and open the perspective for its commercial use as a novel natural active as yet unexplored in the field of dermatology and cosmetics for treatment of skin diseases with damaged skin barrier function.

Nutritive value, antioxidant activity and phenolic compounds profile of brewer’s spent yeast extract

Article

Aug 2016

Synergistic effects of ascorbyl palmitate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate loaded in multiple emulsions on facial skin melanin and erythema content

Article

Jan 2016

Hyperpigmentation, such as melasma, postinflammatory melanoderma and dermatitis caused by increased production and accumulation of melanin are the major problems today. Ascorbyl Palmitate (AP) and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP), derivatives of ascorbic acid, having the inhibitory effect on skin melanin production and also has anti-inflammatory activity. Aim of this study was to investigate the synergistic effects of ascorbyl palmitate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate loaded in three multiple emulsion formulations i.e. ME1, ME2, and ME3 on facial skin melanin and erythema contents of Asian human females over 12-week treatment course. Thirty three female volunteers were enrolled to singleblinded, placebo-controlled, split-face trial, 3 groups of 11 volunteers each were treated with active treatments versus control/placebo for a period of 12 weeks. Evaluation was performed with non-invasive bioengineering techniques. Patch testing showed no side effects. Control multiple emulsion showed insignificant results while active multiple emulsion formulations showed a significant decrease in skin melanin and erythema content after statistically applied ANOVA (p <0.05). Ascorbyl palmitate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate are potent antioxidants. Treatments of human skin with active formulations; ME1, ME2, and ME3 containing Ascorbyl palmitate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate significantly reduces facial skin melanin and erythema thus could be explored further for the treatment of pigmentation disorders and dermatitis.

Synergistic effects of ascorbyl palmitate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate loaded in multiple emulsions on facial skin melanin and erythema content

Article

Full-text available

Apr 2016

Muhammad Naeem

Hyperpigmentation, such as melasma, postinflammatory melanoderma and dermatitis caused by increased production and accumulation of melanin are the major problems today. Ascorbyl Palmitate (AP) and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP), derivatives of ascorbic acid, having the inhibitory effect on skin melanin production and also has anti-inflammatory activity. Aim of this study was to investigate the synergistic effects of ascorbyl palmitate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate loaded in three multiple emulsion formulations i.e. ME 1 , ME 2 , and ME 3 on facial skin melanin and erythema contents of Asian human females over 12-week treatment course. Thirty three female volunteers were enrolled to single-blinded, placebo-controlled, split-face trial, 3 groups of 11 volunteers each were treated with active treatments versus control/placebo for a period of 12 weeks. Evaluation was performed with non-invasive bioengineering techniques. Patch testing showed no side effects. Control multiple emulsion showed insignificant results while active multiple emulsion formulations showed a significant decrease in skin melanin and erythema content after statistically applied ANOVA (p <0.05). Ascorbyl palmitate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate are potent antioxidants. Treatments of human skin with active formulations; ME 1 , ME 2 , and ME 3 containing Ascorbyl palmitate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate significantly reduces facial skin melanin and erythema thus could be explored further for the treatment of pigmentation disorders and dermatitis.

A Novel Moisturizer Extracted from Freshwater Macroalga [Rhizoclonium hieroglyphicum (C.Agardh) K tzing] for Skin Care Cosmetic

Article

Full-text available

Oct 2014

Our previous study demonstrated that the aqueous extract from freshwater macroalga Rhizoclonium hieroglyphicum (C.Agardh) K tzing (RW) contained mostly polysaccharides and amino acids which might play an important role as a skin moisturizer. Therefore, its moisturizing effect in pig skin model and human skin was compared with some well-known commercial moisturizers such as glycerin (G), propylene glycol (PG) and hyaluronic acid (HA). The RW cream was then formulated and investigated its physical properties, pH and viscosity as well as stability under various storage conditions. The skin irritation and clinical evaluation for skin moisturizing effect in healthy volunteers were also evaluated. Skin patch test using Finn chamber ® and skin moisturizing measurement using Corneometer ® were conducted in 30 healthy volunteers. The skin hydration was measured at before and after applying the RW cream and control creams (cream base, G, PG and HA creams) for 15, 30 min, 1 hour for a short-term effect and 1 week (twice daily) for long-term usage. Satisfaction test using questionnaire was also performed. The results revealed that the moisturizing effect on human skin of RW is very similar to hyaluronic acid and glycerin. From clinical evaluation, the skin hydration increased after using RW cream in both short-term and long-term usage and no skin irritation occurred. Interestingly, the moisturizing effect of RW cream was comparable to HA cream (p<0.05). More than 80% of the volunteers were satisfied with RW cream. In conclusion, the freshwater macroalga extract might be a promising natural skin moisturizer for skin care cosmetics.

Sustainability, natural and organic cosmetics: Consumer, products, efficacy, toxicological and regulatory considerations

Article

Full-text available

Jan 2015

The interest in sustainable products has increased along the years, since the choice of products, packaging and production processes have a great impact on the environment. These products are classified by regulatory agencies in different categories, aggregating advantages to the product and increasing the demand by consumers. However, there is no harmonization in guidelines of these certifying agencies and each cosmetic industry formulates their product and packaging in a more rational way, which causes less damage to the environment. Many cosmetic products have in their formulation natural products that perform a specific biological function, but these products should be evaluated on efficacy and toxicological aspects. The aim of this article is to approach sustainability, natural and organic cosmetics, considering the consumer and the efficacy, toxicological and regulatory aspects.

The safety and efficacy of 3% Cannabis seeds extract cream for reduction of human cheek skin sebum and erythema content

Article

Full-text available

Jul 2015
PAK J PHARM SCI

Escalated sebum fabrication is seen with an unattractive look and adds to the growth of acne. We aimed to investigate the efficacy and safety of 3% Cannabis seeds extract cream on human cheek skin sebum and erythema content. For this purpose, base plus 3% Cannabis seeds extract and base (control) were prepared for single blinded and comparative study. Healthy males were instructed to apply the base plus 3% Cannabis seeds extract and base twice a day to their cheeks for 12 weeks. Adverse events were observed to determine skin irritation. Measurements for sebum and erythema content were recorded at baseline, 2nd, 4th, 6th, 8th, 10th and 12th week in a control room with Sebumeter and Mexameter. Base plus 3% Cannabis seeds extract was found to be safe in volunteers. Measurements demonstrated that skin sebum and erythema content of base plus 3% Cannabis seeds extract treated side showed significant decrease (p<0.05) compared with base treated side. Base plus 3% Cannabis seeds extract showed safety. It was well tolerated for the reduction of skin sebum and erythema content. Its improved efficacy could be suggested for treatment of acne vulgaris, seborrhea, papules and pustules to get attractive facial appearance.

Effects of Cream Containing Ficus carica L. Fruit Extract on Skin Parameters: In vivo Evaluation

Article

Full-text available

Nov 2014

This study was aimed to investigate the effects of cream containing Ficus carica L. fruit (Fig) extract on various skin parameters such as skin melanin, erythema, moisture content, trans-epidermal water loss and sebum. For this purpose, formulation with 4% concentrated extract of F. carica fruit and base without extract were developed. Base served as a control. Both base and formulation were applied to the cheeks of human volunteers for 8 weeks to investigate the effects on different skin parameters using non-invasive bioengineering instruments. Formulation decreased the skin melanin, trans-epidermal water loss and skin sebum significantly. Formulation increased the skin hydration significantly and insignificant effects on skin erythema. We concluded that a stable topical cream (w/o emulsion) containing F. carica fruit extract have effects on skin melanin, trans-epidermal loss, hydration values and sebum content and possibly could be used against for hyper pigmentation, acne, freckles and wrinkle.

Synthesis of Titanium Phosphates with Sodium Triphosphate in Hydrothermal Process and Their Powder Properties for Cosmetics

Article

Full-text available

Jan 2012

As a white pigment, titanium oxide is used for cosmetic application. This oxide is well known to have the photo cata-lytic activity. Therefore a certain degree of sebum is decomposed by the ultraviolet radiation in sunlight. In this work, titanium phosphates were prepared with additives (urea, sodium lactate, and glycerin) as a novel white pigment. Their chemical composition, powder properties, photo catalytic activity, moisture retention, and smoothness were studied. These white pigments had little photo catalytic activity. The addition of sodium lactate and glycerin improved the moisture retention of titanium phosphates. The slipping resistance of samples became small by the addition of sodium lactate and glycerin. The roughness of samples became small by heating.

In vivo evaluation: The effects of a cream containing Acacia bark extract on skin melanin and erythema content

Article

Full-text available

Jan 2012

2012/5 369 A Ad dd dr re es ss s f fo or r c co or rr re es sp po on nd de en nc ce e: : A b s t r a c t I In nt tr ro od du uc ct ti io on n: : Phenolic compounds have inhibitory effects on tyrosinase and inflammatory activities which lead to reduction in the melanin and erythema content. This is important for hyperpigmentation, dermatitis and other oxidative stress diseases. A Ai im m: : Investigation of the effects of a cream containing phenolic-rich extract of Acacia bark on the human skin melanin and erythema content. M Ma at te er ri ia al l a an nd d m me et th ho od ds s: : Eleven healthy male volunteers were analyzed and treated with active cream versus base for a period of three months by non-invasive bioengineering techniques. R Re es su ul lt ts s: : No serious adverse effects were observed after patch testing. Base showed insignificant results and active cream showed a significant decrease in skin melanin and erythema content after statistically applied ANOVA. C Co on nc cl lu us si io on ns s: : Our results show that the Acacia bark extract represents a valuable source of phenolic compounds produced naturally. Treatments of human skin with active cream containing phenolic-rich Acacia bark extract sig-nificantly reduce skin melanin and erythema in vivo and could be used for topical treatment of hyperpigmentation and dermatitis. K Ke ey y w wo or rd ds s: : Acacia nilotica, active cream, melanin, erythema.

Anti-aging potential of a cream containing milk thistle extract: Formulation and in vivo evaluation

Article

Full-text available

Jan 2012
AFR J BIOTECHNOL

Akhtar Naveed

This study was designed to formulate and evaluate anti{dotless}-agi{dotless}ng effects of a topical cream (water in oil (w/o) emulsion) containig extract of milk thistle (Silybum marianum) against its vehicle (Base) as control. Base containing no extract and a formulation containing 4% concentrated extract of Silybum marianum was developed by entrapping in the inner aqueous phase of w/o emulsion. Both the base and formulation were stored at 8°C ± 0.1°C (in refrigerator), 25°C ± 0.1°C, 40°C ± 0.1°C and 40°C ± 0.1°C with 75% RH (in incubator) for a period of 8 weeks to predict their stability. The evaluation parameters consisted of colour, smell, type of emulsion, electrical conductivity, liquefaction and pH. The expected organoleptic stability of creams was acheived from 8 weeks in-vitro study period. The formulation and base were evaluated for effects on skin moisture and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The base showed insignificant (p≥0.05) while formulation showed significant effects on skin moisture and TEWL. The surface evaluation of living skin (SELS) parameters SEr, SEsc, SEsm and SEw were also evaluated which showed significant decline proving that the formulation possesses potential antiaging effects.

In vivo skin irritation potential of a cream containing Moringa oleifera leaf extract

Article

Full-text available

Feb 2013
AFR J PHARM PHARMACO

The aim of the present study was to evaluate the skin irritation potential of a cream containing Moringa oleifera leaf extract. Skin irritation potential of a cream containing M. oleifera leaf extract (3%) versus base was investigated by performing an in-vivo visual scoring (skin irritation), patch test and erythema index for long term study by using non-invasive instrumental assessment Mexameter in 11 volunteers in a single blinded study. The active cream and base were applied twice daily to the face (cheeks) for a period of 12 weeks. The instrumental measurements were carried out under a draught-free room, with controlled temperature (18.0 to 20.6°C) and relative humidity (55 to 65%). No serious adverse effects were observed. The M. oleifera leaf extract cream was not-irritant according to 48 h semi-occluded patch test. There was a significant decrease in skin erythema and base showed insignificant results when applied ANOVA. The results suggested that the M. oleifera leaf extract cream was very well accepted by all volunteers and decreased erythema content. Additionally, product can be regarded as safe for topical application.

Preparation of Titanium Phosphates with additives in Hydrothermal Process and Their Powder Properties for Cosmetics

Article

Nov 2012

In this work, titanium phosphates were prepared from titanium chloride and phosphoric acid, sodium pyrophosphate and sodium triphosphate solutions with water retention compounds in hydrothermal process as a novel white pigment for cosmetics. Their chemical composition, powder properties, photo catalytic activity, water retention, and smoothness were studied. The addition of glycerin in the preparation from sodium pyrophosphate has the useful method to obtain homogenized spherical particles of titanium phosphate pigments for the cosmetics. These titanium phosphates had less photo catalytic activity to protect the sebum on the skin. © 2012 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie.

Formulation and in Vivo Evaluation for Anti-Aging Effects of an Emulsion Containing Basil Extract Using non- Invasive Biophysical Techniques

Article

Full-text available

Mar 2011
DARU

BACKGROUND AND THE PURPOSE OF STUDY: Skin aging is a complex process induced by constant exposure to ultraviolet (UV) irradiation and damages human skin. UV generates reactive oxygen species leading to collagen deficiency and eventually skin wrinkling. Basil contains a number of phenolics and favonoids which possess antioxidant properties. The aim of this study was to formulate and investigate the antiaging potential of a cream containing Basil extract. A single blinded study was conducted using non-invasive methods. Formulation containing 3% of the concentrated extract of Basil was developed by entrapping in the inner aqueous phase of w/o emulsion and base contained no extract. Both creams were stored at different storage conditions of 8°C, 25°C, 40°C and 40°C+ 75% relative humidity to predict their stabilities. The formulation and base were evaluated for their effects on various skin parameters i.e., moisture and trans epidermal water loss (TEWL), volume, energy and surface evaluation of the living skin (SELS). Significant effects (p≤0.05) were observed for both creams in the case of TEWL. The base showed insignificant (p≤0.05) while formulation showed significant effects on skin moisture. Volume, SELS SEr (skin roughness), SEsc (skin scaliness), SEsm (skin smoothness), SEw (skin wrinkles) parameter showed significant decline while texture parameter of 'Energy' showed significant increase. The results statistically indicated that the active formulation containg extract of Basil exert antiaging effects when applied topically.

Synthesis and pigmental properties of titanium phosphates with the addition of urea

Article

Sep 2011

As a white pigment, titanium oxide is used for cosmetic application. This oxide is well known to have the photo catalytic activity. Therefore, a certain degree of sebum is decomposed by the ultraviolet radiation in the sunlight. In this work, titanium phosphates were prepared as a novel white pigment. Their chemical composition, powder properties, photo catalytic activity, moisture retention and smooth were studied with the addition of urea. These white pigments had little photo catalytic activity. The addition of urea improved the moisture retention of titanium phosphates. The slipping resistance of samples became small by heating, on the other hand, the roughness of samples became small by the addition of urea. Comme pigment blanc, l’oxyde de titane est utilisé en cosmétique. Cet oxyde est bien connu pour son activité photo catalytique. Dans ce travail, des phosphates de titane ont été préparés en tant que nouveau pigment blanc. Leur composition chimique, les propriétés de la poudre, l’activité photo catalytique, la capacité de rétention d’humidité et la douceur ont étéétudiées avec un ajout d’urée. Ces pigments blancs avaient une petite activité photo catalytique. L’addition d’urée a amélioré la rétention d’humidité des phosphates de titane. La résistance au glissement des échantillons est atténuée par chauffage, et d’autre part, la rugosité des échantillons est diminuée par l’ajout d’urée.

Yeast Extract: Characteristics, Production, Applications and Future Perspectives

Article

Full-text available

Oct 2022

Yeast extract is a product prepared mainly from waste brewer's yeast, which is rich in nucleotides, proteins, amino acids, sugars and a variety of trace elements, and has the advantages of low production cost and abundant supply of raw material. Consequently, yeast extracts are widely used in various fields as animal feed additives, food flavoring agents and additives, cosmetic supplements, and microbial fermentation media; however, their full potential has not yet been realized. To improve understanding of current research knowledge, this review summarizes the ingredients, production technology, and applications of yeast extracts, and discusses the relationship between their properties and applications. Developmental trends and future prospects of yeast extract are also previewed, with the aim of providing a theoretical basis for the development and expansion of future applications.

Estudio botánico y farmacéutico de productos con aplicación en cosmética y cuidado de la piel

Article

Dec 2017

Objetivos: revisar productos comerciales con ingredientes vegetales que se emplean en higiene personal y cosmética de uso diario. Reunir, en forma de catálogo, consideraciones botánicas y farmacéuticas de estos extractos. Métodos: se ha realizado un trabajo de campo durante seis meses, visitando las áreas de higiene y cosmética de 4 farmacias y de 3 grandes superficies comerciales de Sevilla. Se anotaron todos los productos en cuya etiqueta aparecía un nombre de planta: Se ha usado la bibliografía necesaria obtenida a través de bases de datos: Web Of Science, Scopus. Resultados y discusión: se encontraron extractos de 129 plantas diferentes, repartidas por todo el mundo vegetal (a excepción de briofitos). De ellas, 116 son plantas con semillas, distribuidas en 59 familias diferentes, siendo las más importantes: Asteraceae, Rosaceae, Lamiaceae, Poaceae, Fabaceae, Rutaceae y Sapindaceae. El 42% de las plantas son de porte herbáceo, el resto son leñosas y algunos talos. El origen de las mismas se puede relacionar con las áreas agrícolas tradicionalmente cultivadas por el hombre, de las que destacamos la franja mediterránea, Asia central, India, Sureste asiático, China y Japón. Los órganos más empleados en la elaboración de estos productos son: semillas, frutos, flores (seguidos por las hojas). Los metabolitos secundarios más abundantes son: flavonoides (quercetina, kaempferol, hesperidina), vitaminas (C), hidratos de carbono (carragenanos y fuciodanos) y lípidos (ácidos grasos mono y polinsaturados). Los usos principales son: poder antioxidante, aromas y fragancias, nutrientes e hidratantes de la piel, efecto fotoprotector, cuidado del cabello y anticelulítico. Conclusiones: La muestra de vegetales que se ha encontrado, puede ser representativa de las especies botánicas que aparecen en cosmética y productos para la piel, de uso diario en España. También se ha encontrado una base científica que sustenta las propiedades y beneficios de los extractos vegetales en estos productos.

Mannans and mannan oligosaccharides (MOS) from Saccharomyces cerevisiae – A sustainable source of functional ingredients

Article

Jul 2021
CARBOHYD POLYM

Sustainable industry practices and circular economy concepts encourage the transformation of production waste into by-products. Saccharomyces cerevisiae is widely used in fermentation industry worldwide, generating large amounts of spent yeast which is mainly directed to animal feed or discarded as waste. Instead of becoming and environmental problem, spent yeast can be directed to the extraction of valuable compounds such as mannans and mannan oligosaccharides (MOS). This review presents a compilation of the studies up to date regarding the different chemical, enzymatic, mechanical or physical processes addressed for mannans extraction and MOS production. Additionally, the existing studies on the chemical modification of mannans aimed to improve specific characteristics are also discussed. Finally, the more relevant bioactivities and potential applications of mannans, MOS and mannose are presented, together with products on the market containing these compounds.

An overview on natural product drug formulations from conventional medicines to nanomedicines: Past, present and future

Article

Jun 2021
J DRUG DELIV SCI TEC

For decades, naturally produced plants have been studied and used in herbalism (herbal medicines). Despite being natural, these products were not of any interest of any of the major pharmaceutical companies. There are various reasons behind this ignorance but mainly because of the outdated thought, that many people believe about natural products, in which plants are only utilized for their antibiotic benefits since there were successfully used as antibiotics in the post-World War II era. Mainly small pharmaceutical companies have paid attention to natural products and explored their benefits against various diseases such as microbial infection, cancer, cardiovascular diseases, diabetes and other illnesses while big pharmaceutical industries have focused on screening synthetic compounds. Nowadays, natural products and their derivatives have demonstrated their significant impact as therapeutic agents on people heath. Accordingly, about one-third of the top-selling products in the pharmaceutical market are natural products which are either derived from plants or microorganisms. The use of such products is highly preferred by people due to their unique advantages of good therapeutic efficacy, low side effects and cheaper than synthetic products. However, many of natural products are not clearing the clinical trials due to their toxicity and problems with biocompatibility. This review will briefly highlight the history of herbal medicine and will cover pharmaceutical formulations prepared from therapeutically active extracts of natural products. In addition, this article will summarise a range of natural products in conventional dosage forms to the most recent nano-medicinal forms.

Quantitative Proteomics Combined with Two Genetic Strategies for Screening Substrates of Ubiquitin Ligase Hrt3

Article

Dec 2019

Ubiquitin ligases (E3s) serves as a key regulator for ubiquitylation-mediated pathway. The identification of the corresponding relationship between E3 and its substrates is challenging but required for understanding the regulatory network of ubiquitylation. The low abundance of ubiquitinated conjugates and high redundancy of E3s-substrates regulation made screening pretty hard. Herein, we combined SILAC-based quantitative proteomics with two contrary genetic methods (overexpression and knockout) in theory for E3 (Hrt3, F-box subunit of SCF complex) substrates screening. The knockout method could not overcome the constraint mentioned above, while the overexpression approach turned on the access to the potential substrates of E3. Subsequently, we obtained 77 candidates which involved in many critical biological processes and needed to be verified one by one in the future. Within these candidates, we confirmed the relationship between one of the candidates Nce103 and Hrt3, and linked the Hrt3 with oxygen sensitivity and oxidative stress response which Nce103 took part in as well. This research was also beneficial for our understanding the impact of oxygen supply on regulation of yeast growth through the ubiquitination of Nce103.

Estudio botánico y farmacéutico de productos con aplicación en cosmética y cuidado de la piel

Article

Full-text available

Jan 2018

Objective: To review commercial products with vegetal ingredients that are used in personal hygiene and cosmetics of daily use. Collect, in the form of a catalog, botanical and pharmaceutical considerations of these extracts. Method: A field work was carried out during six months, visiting the areas of hygiene and cosmetics of four pharmacies and of three large commercial areas of Seville. All the products in which a plant name appeared appeared: used the necessary bibliography obtained through databases: Scopus, Web Of Science. Results and discussion: We found extracts from 129 different plants distributed throughout the plant kingdom (except for bryophytes). Of these, 116 are seed plants, distributed in 59 different families, being the most important: Asteraceae, Rosaceae, Lamiaceae, Poaceae, Fabaceae, Rutaceae and Sapindaceae. 42% of the plants are herbaceous, the rest are woody and some thallus. Their origins can be related to the agricultural areas traditionally cultivated by man, such as the Mediterranean, Central Asia, India, Southeast Asia, China and Japan. The most used organs in the elaboration of these products are: seeds, fruits, flowers (followed by the leaves). The most abundant secondary metabolites are: flavonoids (quercetin, kaempferol, hesperidin), vitamins (C), carbohydrates (carrageenans and fuciodans) and lipids (mono and polyunsaturated fatty acids). The main uses are: antioxidant power, aromas and fragrances, nutrients and skin moisturizers, photoprotective effect, hair care and anti-cellulite. Conclusion: The vegetable sample that has been found may be representative of the botanical species that appear in cosmetics and skin products, and everyday products of Spain. A scientific basis has also been found that supports the properties and benefits of plant extracts in these products.

Mangiferin and naringenin affect the photostability and phototoxicity of sunscreens containing avobenzone

Article

Aug 2015

Efficient UV-absorbing molecules are designed to protect against UV-light exposure. However, the development of photostable sunscreens is important to preserve the photoprotective efficacy and to prevent the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and photodegradation products, which can promote phototoxic or photoallergic contact dermatitis. The aim of this study was to evaluate the effects of mangiferin and naringenin on the photostability and phototoxicity of sunscreens containing avobenzone. Cosmetic sunscreen formulations containing octocrylene (OCT), octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) and avobenzone (AVO) were prepared and supplemented or not with mangiferin, naringenin, or with both compounds in combination. For photostability studies, samples of the formulations were spread onto glass plates, exposed to UVA radiation and then analyzed by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) to determine UV filters and the antioxidants recovery. The phototoxicity of the UV filters and antioxidants was evaluated using 3T3 fibroblast cultures that were subjected (or not) to irradiation according to OECD TG 432. The photostability studies demonstrated that AVO and naringenin showed the highest photodegradation when present in formulation FN (containing octocrylene, avobenzone, octyl methoxycinnamate and naringenin). The addition of mangiferin to this combination (FMN) resulted in an improved photostability of both substances compared to FN. The in vitro phototoxicity test showed that only avobenzone was considered phototoxic. The combination containing AVO/naringenin exhibited phototoxic potential; however, this was reduced by the addition of mangiferin (combination CMN). The results of this study are promising because it was demonstrated that mangiferin could increase the photostability and reduce the phototoxic potential of the combination of naringenin and AVO. Copyright © 2015 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Effect of Tribulus terrestris on Haloperidol-induced Catalepsy in Mice

Article

Full-text available

Nov 2014

Haloperidol, an antipsychotic drug, leads to the development of a behavioural state called catalepsy, in which the animal is not able to correct an externally imposed posture. In the present study we have attempted to evaluate the anticataleptic effect of Tribulus terrestris on haloperidol-induced catalepsy in albino mice. Mice were allocated to four groups, each group containing six animals. Both, the test drug, Tribulus terrestris and the standard drug trihexyphenidyl were uniformly suspended in 1% gum acacia solution. Catalepsy was induced in mice with haloperidol (1.0 mg/kg, intraperitoneally). The first group received the vehicle (10 ml/kg, orally), the second group received trihexyphenidyl (10 mg/kg, orally) and the remaining two groups received Tribulus terrestris (100, 200 mg/kg, orally). The animals were assessed after single and repeated dose administration for ten days, 30 min prior to haloperidol, using standard bar test. The result of the present study demonstrates Tribulus terrestris has a protective effect against haloperidol-induced catalepsy, which is comparable to the standard drug used for the same purpose. Our study indicates Tribulus terrestris can be used to prevent haloperidol-induced extrapyramidal side effects.

Beer and beer compounds: Physiological effects on skin health

Article

Jun 2013
J EUR ACAD DERMATOL

Beer is one of the earliest human inventions and globally the most consumed alcoholic beverage in terms of volume. In addition to water, the 'German Beer Purity Law', based on the Bavarian Beer Purity Law from 1516, allows only barley, hops, yeasts and water for beer brewing. The extracts of these ingredients, especially the hops, contain an abundance of polyphenols such as kaempferol, quercetin, tyrosol, ferulic acid, xanthohumol/isoxanthohumol/8-prenylnaringenin, α-bitter acids like humulone and β-bitter acids like lupulone. 8-prenylnaringenin is the most potent phytoestrogen known to date. These compounds have been shown to possess various anti-bacterial, anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidative, anti-angiogenic, anti-melanogenic, anti-osteoporotic and anti-carcinogenic effects. Epidemiological studies on the association between beer drinking and skin disease are limited while direct evidence of beer compounds in clinical application is lacking. Potential uses of these substances in dermatology may include treatment of atopic eczema, contact dermatitis, pigmentary disorders, skin infections, skin ageing, skin cancers and photoprotections, which require an optimization of the biostability and topical delivery of these compounds. Further studies are needed to determine the bioavailability of these compounds and their possible beneficial health effects when taken by moderate beer consumption.

Skin phototoxicity of cosmetic formulations containing photounstable and photostable UV-filters and vitamin A palmitate

Article

Aug 2012

The aim of this study was to evaluate the in vitro skin phototoxicity of cosmetic formulations containing photounstable and photostable UV-filters and vitamin A palmitate, assessed by two in vitro techniques: 3T3 Neutral Red Uptake Phototoxicity Test and Human 3-D Skin Model In Vitro Phototoxicity Test. For this, four different formulations containing vitamin A palmitate and different UV-filters combinations, two of them considered photostable and two of them considered photounstable, were prepared. Solutions of each UV-filter and vitamin under study and solutions of four different combinations under study were also prepared. The phototoxicity was assessed in vitro by the 3T3 NRU phototoxicity test (3T3-NRU-PT) and subsequently in a phototoxicity test on reconstructed human skin model (H3D-PT). Avobenzone presented a pronounced phototoxicity and vitamin A presented a tendency to a weak phototoxic potential. A synergistic effect of vitamin A palmitate on the phototoxicity of combinations containing avobenzone was observed. H3D-PT results did not confirm the positive 3T3-NRU-PT results. However, despite the four formulations studied did not present any acute phototoxicity potential, the combination 2 containing octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC), avobenzone (AVB) and 4-methylbenzilidene camphor (MBC) presented an indication of phototoxicity that should be better investigated in terms of the frequency of photoallergic or chronic phototoxicity in humans, once these tests are scientifically validated only to detect phototoxic potential with the aim of preventing phototoxic reactions in the general population, and positive results cannot predict the exact incidence of phototoxic reactions in humans.

Anti-aging efficacy of topical formulations containing niosomes entrapped with rice bran bioactive compounds

Article

Feb 2012
PHARM BIOL

Rice [Oryza sativa L. (Gramineae)] bran is a rich source of phytochemicals. Its oil also contains several bioactive components that exhibit antioxidative properties such as ferulic acid (F), γ-oryzanol (O), and phytic acid (P) which can be a new source of cosmetic raw materials. To evaluate the anti-aging effects of the gel and cream containing niosomes entrapped with the rice bran bioactive compounds. The semi-purified rice bran extracts containing F, O, and P which indicated the growth stimulation of human fibroblasts and the inhibition of MMP-2 by sulforhodamine B and gelatin zymography, respectively, were entrapped in niosomes by supercritical carbon dioxide fluid (scCO(2)) and incorporated in gel and cream formulations. The skin hydration, elasticity, thickness and roughness, and pigmentation in human volunteers after treated with these gel and creams were investigated by corneometer, cutometer, visiometer, and mexameter, respectively. Gel and cream containing the semi-purified rice bran extracts entrapped in niosomes gave no sign of erythema and edema detected within 72 h on the shaved rabbit skin by the closed patch test investigated by mexameter and visual observation, respectively. These formulations also demonstrated higher hydration enhancement and improvement of skin lightening, thickness, roughness, and elasticity on the skin of 30 human volunteers within the 28-day treatment not more than 9, 27, 7, 3, and 3 times, respectively. The formulations containing niosomes entrapped with the rice bran bioactive compounds gave superior clinical anti-aging activity which can be applied as a novel skin product.

Efficacy of anti-wrinkle products in skin surface appearance: A comparative study using non-invasive methods

Article

Aug 2010
SKIN RES TECHNOL

Age has a huge influence on skin roughness; with increasing age, the number of collagen and elastine fibers is reduced and elasticity decreases significantly. Pharmaceutical and cosmetics, environmental factors and lifestyle have an important effect on skin. In this study, the efficacy of 12 commercial anti-wrinkle products was evaluated using a direct non-invasive method to measure the skin surface morphology. Four clinical parameters surface evaluation of the living skin (SELS) (Ser, Sesc, Sesm, and Sew) were evaluate using Visioscan(®) VC98. Two hundred and forty-eight healthy female volunteers, aged between 30 and 70 years, were chosen for this study. The duration of treatment was 28 days. Skin microrelief parameters were evaluated using the Visioscan(®) VC98 - SELS 2000 from Courage+Khazaka. Measurements were made in the crow's feet area and the differences were evaluated for statistical significance. Significant differences were found for some of the SELS parameters. According to the results obtained for SELS Sew, products that showed to be more effective against aging were V, M, N, T, P, R and L. We think this methodology may be considered very useful for the direct study of the skin surface and may be suitable as a routine method in wrinkle evaluation.

Oxidative Stress Promotes Specific Protein Damage inSaccharomyces cerevisiae

Article

Full-text available

Sep 2000

We have analyzed the proteins that are oxidatively damaged when Saccharomyces cerevisiae cells are exposed to stressing conditions. Carbonyl groups generated by hydrogen peroxide or menadione on proteins of aerobically respiring cells were detected by Western blotting, purified, and identified. Mitochondrial proteins such as E2 subunits of both pyruvate dehydrogenase and α-ketoglutarate dehydrogenase, aconitase, heat-shock protein 60, and the cytosolic fatty acid synthase (α subunit) and glyceraldehyde-3-phosphate dehydrogenase were the major targets. In addition we also report the in vivomodification of lipoamide present in the above-mentioned E2 subunits under the stressing conditions tested and that this also occurs with the homologous enzymes present in Escherichia coli cells that were used for comparative analysis. Under fermentative conditions, the main protein targets in S. cerevisiae cells treated with hydrogen peroxide or menadione were pyruvate decarboxylase, enolase, fatty acid synthase, and glyceraldehyde-3-phosphate dehydrogenase. Under the stress conditions tested, fermenting cells exhibit a lower viability than aerobically respiring cells and, consistently, increased peroxide generation as well as higher content of protein carbonyls and lipid peroxides. Our results strongly suggest that the oxidative stress in prokaryotic and eukaryotic cells shares common features.

Histopathological, morphometric, and stereologic studies of dermocosmetic skin formulations containing vitamin A and/or glycolic acid

Article

Full-text available

May 1999

Among the many active agents for dermocosmetic purposes that have been described, marketed, and prescribed, vitamins (vitamin A palmitate among them) and alpha-hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid have been gaining scientific importance. Vitamin A palmitate contributes to the maintenance of skin softness and smoothness, improving the water barrier properties of the tissue. Glycolic acid has yielded highly satisfactory results in terms of recovery of aged skin. The combination of low concentrations of glycolic acid with vitamin A palmitate has been extensively used in dermocosmetic formulations. The objective of the present study was to investigate the histopathological alterations caused by formulations containing vitamin A and/or glycolic acid in guinea pig skin, determined by appropriate stereologic techniques. The following formulations were applied to specific shaved areas of guinea pig skin: gel alone (used as the dermocosmetic base), gel with vitamin A added, gel with glycolic acid added, and gel with both vitamin A and glycolic acid added. After application of the formulations for one week, skin biopsies were obtained from the animals and we investigated the histopathological alterations. Under the present experimental conditions, both the formulations containing vitamin A and glycolic acid caused increased epidermal thickness, with cells of larger volume due to intra-and extracellular edema (hydration). This epithelial thickening was not limited to the upper cell layers but was also present in the basal and spinous layers. These alterations were even more evident with the use of the formulation containing a combination of vitamin A and glycolic acid.

Oxidative Stress Promotes Specific Protein Damage inSaccharomyces cerevisiae

Article

Full-text available

Sep 2000

Inhibition of UVB induced DNA photodamage in mouse epidermis by topically applied ??-tocopherol

Article

Full-text available

Sep 1997

Ultraviolet B (UVB, 290-320 nm) exposure results in a variety of cellular insults including induction of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers in DNA. Accumulation of these lesions can lead to mutations in critical genes and contribute to the development of nonmelanoma skin cancer. Topically applied alpha-tocopherol (vitamin E) has previously been shown to prevent the induction of skin tumors in UVB irradiated female C3H/HeNTac mice. We hypothesized that alpha-tocopherol, which absorbs strongly in the UVB, may act as a sunscreen to prevent photodamage. To explore possible mechanisms of photoprotection, we topically applied alpha-tocopherol dispersed in a neutral cream vehicle to the dorsal epidermis of female C3H/HeNTac mice and exposed them to 2.5 J/m2/s of UVB for 60 min. Immediately after exposure, we analyzed thymine dimer levels in DNA by capillary gas chromatography with electron capture detection. Epidermal DNA from mice receiving this UVB dose contained 247 +/- 42 pmol thymine dimers/micromol thymine. Topical application of alpha-tocopherol inhibited dimer formation in a dose-dependent manner. A 1% alpha-tocopherol dispersion inhibited the formation of thymine dimers to 43% of levels in vehicle controls. Several vitamin E compounds, including alpha-tocopherol acetate, alpha-tocopherol methyl ether, gamma-tocopherol, and delta-tocopherol also inhibited thymine dimer formation, but were five- to ten-fold less potent than alpha-tocopherol. A variety of commercially available sunscreens were also less potent than alpha-tocopherol in their ability to reduce dimer formation. These results suggest that DNA photoprotection is an important mechanism by which topically applied alpha-tocopherol can inhibit UVB induced skin cancer. Alpha-Tocopherol acetate, the most common form of vitamin E in commercial skin care products, conferred less protection, perhaps due to its lower absorptivity in the UVB. Our results further underscore the importance of determining which forms of vitamin E can inhibit specific lesions involved in photocarcinogenesis.

Methyldibromo glutaronitrile contact allergy: Effect of single versus repeated daily exposure

Article

Full-text available

Mar 2005

Some types of cosmetic products such as hand soaps and creams are commonly used several times a day, especially in occupational use situations. Little has experimentally been shown of how the daily frequency of the application of an allergen in a product influences the allergic response. This study investigates the allergic responses elicited in presensitized individuals when exposed to a specific amount of allergen applied either in 1 application per day or distributed over 4 applications per day. As model allergen, the cosmetic preservative methyldibromo glutaronitrile (MDBGN) is used. 19 contact allergic individuals and 12 controls participated in a double-blind, randomized use test. To areas on the forearms were applied 2 drops either once daily of a solution containing 0.04% MDBGN or 4 times a day of a solution containing 0.01% MDBGN. 14 of 19 patients developed dermatitis following the application of approximately equal amounts of MDBGN on both arms. Controls were negative. In this experiment, applications of 0.04% MDBGN once daily or 0.01% MDBGN 4 times daily had, in a use test, approximately equal capabilities of provoking allergic contact dermatitis. This adds new knowledge to the risk assessment and regulation of cosmetic allergens. However, these results may be highly allergen dependent, and further studies are needed before more general conclusions can be made.

Immunomodulatory activities associated with β-glucan derived from Saccharomyces cerevisiae

Article

Full-text available

Feb 2005

In this study we investigated the effect of beta-glucan derived from Saccharomyces cerevisiae on fungicidal activity, cytokine production and natural killer activity. Spleen and peritoneal cells from female C57BL/6 mice, previously injected (24 or 48 h) with 20 or 100 microg of glucan by i.p. route, were assayed. In vivo beta-glucan administration primed spleen cells for a higher production of IL-12 and TNF-alpha when S. aureus was used as a stimulus. In addition, beta-glucan increased NK spleen cells activity against YAC target cells. Some immunomodulatory activities not yet described for beta-glucan were observed in this work.

Regular use of a hand cream can attenuate skin dryness and roughness caused by frequent hand washing

Article

Full-text available

Feb 2006
BMC Dermatol

Aim of the study was to determine the effect of the regular use of a hand cream after washing hands on skin hydration and skin roughness. Twenty-five subjects washed hands and forearms with a neutral soap four times per day, for 2 minutes each time, for a total of two weeks. One part of them used a hand cream after each hand wash, the others did not (cross over design after a wash out period of two weeks). Skin roughness and skin hydration were determined on the forearms on days 2, 7, 9 and 14. For skin roughness, twelve silicon imprint per subject and time point were taken from the stratum corneum and assessed with a 3D skin analyzer for depth of the skin relief. For skin hydration, five measurements per subject and time point were taken with a corneometer. Washing hands lead to a gradual increase of skin roughness from 100 (baseline) to a maximum of 108.5 after 9 days. Use of a hand cream after each hand wash entailed a decrease of skin roughness which the lowest means after 2 (94.5) and 14 days (94.8). Skin hydration was gradually decreased after washing hands from 79 (baseline) to 65.5 after 14 days. The hand wash, followed by use of a hand cream, still decreased skin hydration after 2 days (76.1). Over the next 12 days, however, skin hydration did not change significantly (75.6 after 14 days). Repetitive and frequent hand washing increases skin dryness and roughness. Use of a hand cream immediately after each hand wash can confine both skin dryness and skin roughness. Regular use of skin care preparations should therefore help to prevent both dry and rough skin among healthcare workers in clinical practice.

Equivalence of face and volar forearm for the testing of moisturizing and firming effect of cosmetics in hydration and biomechanical studies

Article

Full-text available

Jan 2007

The objective of the study was to compare measurements of skin hydration and of biomechanical properties performed on different zones of face and volar forearm. Two short-term (1 h) and two long-term (3 weeks) studies were conducted with a moisturizing and a firming product, respectively, on groups of female volunteers with dry skin. Measurements (Corneometer) and Dermal Torque Meter or DTM were performed on different zones of the face and of the volar forearm, 1 h after product application, and after 1, 2 and 3 weeks of repeated twice daily application. While the sebaceous-gland rich T-zone behaves differently, probably due to sebum/skin, sebum/product and/or sebum/measuring device interactions, there are no statistically significant differences between measurements made on temple, cheek, maxilla and volar forearm. The volar forearm is representative of the face for measuring skin hydration and biomechanical properties, and relevant for the assessment of the efficacy of cosmetic products destined for facial use.

Application of a non-invasive method to study the moisturizing effect of formulations containing vitamins A or E or ceramide on human skin

Article

Sep 2002
J Soc Cosmet Chem

Moisturizers containing vitamins A and E as well as ceramides are believed to improve the skin condition by increasing the water content of the stratum corneum. The aim of this research was to evaluate, through the capacitance method (a non-invasive method), the moisturizing effect of an O/W emulsion (non-ionic self-emulsifying base) containing vitamin A palmitate, vitamin E acetate, and ceramide III on human skin. The studies were carried out on a group of 40 healthy Caucasian female rest subjects between 30 and 45 years of age, using the Corneometer CM 825 PC. Skin measurements were taken from the volunteers at 7 and 30 days after daily use (twice a day) of the tested products. The presence of vitamins A and E or ceramide III did not cause an improvement in the hydration of the stratum corneum, which means that none of those compounds strengthens the hydration effectiveness of the base formulations used, at least at the doses tested. The interpretation of electrical measurement regarding skin moisture should be made with caution; thus the results observed in this study show the importance of using different approaches (or methodologies) to verify the performance of the formulas tested. We conclude that, at the low doses typically used in cosmetic formulations, vitamins A and E and ceramide III are not likely to contribute to the hydrating effects of the base moisturizing formulation when assessed by capacitance.

Beer in health and Disease Prevention

Article

Jan 2009

Pawel Pohl

Peptides From Live Yeast Cell Derivative Stimulate Wound Healing

Article

May 1990
ARCH SURG-CHICAGO

J. Peter Bentley

• Live yeast cell derivative is an alcoholic extract from yeast (Saccharomyces cerevisiae) that has previously been shown by three groups of workers to stimulate wound healing. Live yeast cell derivative is a complex mixture, and it was not known which of its many components was responsible for the biological activity. This study describes the separation and analysis of the major components, one of which is a peptide fraction that stimulates wound healing. The fraction consists of a mixture of peptides from 6000 to 17000 d. It causes angiogenesis in a chick embryo yolk sac membrane assay and in a rabbit cornea assay, and it dramatically stimulates wound healing in the "Schilling/Hunt" wire mesh cylinder model at concentrations 25-fold lower than those required for the intact live yeast cell derivative. (Arch Surg. 1990;125:641-646)

Production of soluble β-glucan from the cell wall of Saccharomyces cerevisiae

Article

Jul 2006
ENZYME MICROB TECH

β-Glucan is a major component of the yeast cell wall, and plays an important role in the immune system and skin protection. The composition and structure of the yeast cell wall vary with species. The yeast cell wall is also affected by the composition of media and the culture conditions. After cultivating Saccharomyces cerevisiae, the cell wall fraction was prepared by cell lysis using a homogenizer. The crude cell wall extracts were purified to the soluble β-glucan by ethanol precipitation followed by DEAE ion-exchange chromatography, ConA chromatography, and freeze-drying. In batch cultivation of S. cerevisiae, the soluble β-glucan content and the resistance of the cell wall to β-glucanase was highest at early stationary phase. In continuous cultivation of S. cerevisiae, the soluble β-glucan content and the resistance of cell wall to β-glucanase were higher at lower dilution rate. Based on the results obtained from batch and continuous cultivation of S. cerevisiae, fed-batch cultivation was chosen for the mass production of soluble β-glucan. When S. cerevisiae was grown on 1.5-fold concentrated Dw medium and 15g of glucose 50ml−1 solution was fed intermittently, 0.13g β-glucang−1 dried cell was obtained, and the productivity of β-glucan was 0.095g β-glucanl−1 culture brothh−1.

Article

Nov 1985

Sustainable rates of sebaceous wax ester secretion were measured on the foreheads of 109 men and 167 women, aged 15-97. Each measurement was made after first depleting the cutaneous sebum reservoir by overnight absorption of lipid into a layer of bentonite clay. Lipid was then absorbed for 3 h into fresh clay in which two 2-cm cloth disks were embedded. The absorbed lipid was extracted from the disks with ether and analyzed for wax esters by thin-layer chromatography. For both men and women there was a wide range of wax ester secretion rates at all ages. Rates were highest in the 15- to 35-year-olds and appeared to decline continuously throughout the adult age range. Values of log(wax esters) were better correlated with age than the untransformed values of wax ester secretion. The equations of best fit of log(wax esters) vs age suggested that sebum secretion declines about 23% per decade in men and 32% per decade in women.

Improving skin function with CM‐glucan, a biological response modifier from yeast

Article

Apr 1998

Preparations from yeast have been used for a long time for cosmetic and pharmaceutical purposes. Studies have identified glucan from the cell wall of baker's yeast as an immunologically active agent. Glucan is a poly beta-( 1-3)-linked glucopyranose of high molecular weight and belongs to the class of compounds known as biological response modifiers. Glucan preparations are involved in the activation of the body's natural defence mechanisms and in the acceleration of the skin's wound healing processes. In the skin, Langerhans' cells and keratinocytes are the immunologically competent cells. Recent studies indicate that UV irradiation can deplete the number and viability of these cells (immunosuppression). The use of non-specific immune-stimulators, such as glucan, is a new approach for improving the function of stressed skin. We have developed a process to modify pure glucan from baker's yeast to carboxymethyl glucan (CM-glucan), a water soluble product suitable for topical formulations. The functional properties of this new compound have been investigated in vitro and in vivo. Cell culture experiments showed that CM-glucan protects skin cells against the depletion of antioxidant molecules upon UV-A irradiation and promotes the growth of keratinocytes. In placebo controlled studies with healthy volunteers, the pretreatment of skin with CM-glucan offered substantial protection against skin damage caused by a detergent challenge or UV-A irradiation. In addition, CM-glucan enhanced the renewal rate of the stratum corneum.

Contact allergy: Predictive testing in man

Article

Mar 1976

Predictive tests are of value in forecasting the response of a population to a sensitizer; diagnostic testing is used to determine what substances may actually be producing dermatologic problems. Skin sensitization predictive and diagnostic data for the eleven most frequently encountered skin sensitizers in Western Europe, Canada and the United States are reviewed. These compounds include two drugs (benzocaine and neomycin), two cosmetic ingredients (p-phenylenediamine and balsam of Peru), four preservatives (formaldehyde, ethylenediamine, parabens and mercurials) and three ingredients of wearing apparel (nickel, chromium and thiram). Many of the data were collected by the North American Contact Dermatitis Group and the International Contact Dermatitis Research Group on tests with 1,200 and 4,825 dermatologic patients, respectively; the remainder were obtained by individual investigators with smaller groups of subjects. The data obtained by various investigators are discussed in relation to the factors which affect the extent and degree of sensitization which they can cause.

Peptides from live yeast cell derivative stimulate wound healing

Article

Jun 1990
ARCH SURG-CHICAGO

Live yeast cell derivative is an alcoholic extract from yeast (Saccharomyces cerevisiae) that has previously been shown by three groups of workers to stimulate wound healing. Live yeast cell derivative is a complex mixture, and it was not known which of its many components was responsible for the biological activity. This study describes the separation and analysis of the major components, one of which is a peptide fraction that stimulates wound healing. The fraction consists of a mixture of peptides from 6000 to 17,000 d. It causes angiogenesis in a chick embryo yolk sac membrane assay and in a rabbit cornea assay, and it dramatically stimulates wound healing in the "Schilling/Hunt" wire mesh cylinder model at concentrations 25-fold lower than those required for the intact live yeast cell derivative.

Influence of vitamin E acetate on stratum corneum hydration

Article

Aug 1998

The influence of vitamin E (tocopherol, CAS 10191-41-0) on stratum corneum hydration was tested in O/W and W/O emulsions. Additionally, the O/W emulsion was used in an in vivo/in vitro method to gravimetrically obtain evidence concerning the water-binding capacity of the stratum corneum. In the W/O emulsion, 2.5%, 5%, and 7.5% vitamin E were compared. With both types of emulsions, vitamin E increased the stratum corneum hydration statistically significantly (p = 0.0002). In addition, we could provide evidence of an enhanced water-binding capacity after treatment with vitamin E (p = 0.05). For the hydrating effect of vitamin E. its concentration is of importance. The optimum concentration turned out to be 5%.

Microrelief of the skin using a light transmission method

Article

Nov 2000

The recently developed Skin Visiometer, based on light transmission through blue-coloured silicone replicas, was used to study skin microrelief. Calibrated metal plates displaying lines with depths between 6 and 361 microns, were used to determine the accuracy, sensitivity and reproducibility of the technique as well as the parameters of importance during measurement. The precision of the measurements was particularly good between 10 microns and 361 microns. The sensitivity of the method was between 10 and 20 microns. Replicas of volar forearm skin were taken from four groups (n = 15) of male and female volunteers in the age ranges 20 to 30 years and 55 to 65 years. In addition to the instrumental roughness parameters (Rz, Rt, Rm and Ra), the surface of the furrows, the number of primary and secondary lines and the number of intersections were determined. For both sexes, significantly lower values were observed for Rz, Rm and Rt in the younger age group than in the older age group. In addition, the numbers of primary and secondary lines and the number of intersections were higher, pointing to a more structured microrelief in younger forearm skin. Diurnal rhythm, the relative humidity of the measuring room and the position of the forearm were found to be significant factors, while room temperature and precleansing of the skin with mild products were not. Following the application of a hydrating cream (twice daily for 14 days) to the forearm skin of the older female age group, the Rz, Rt, Rm and Ra decreased, while the other parameters measured, except for the surface taken in by the lines, increased, indicating that the microrelief was modified towards the typical pattern observed in young skin.

Testing for irritation with a multifactorial approach: Comparison of eight non-invasive measuring techniques on five different irritation types

Article

Dec 2001

Non-invasive bioengineering methods are widely used in the assessment of irritant skin reactions. To assess the ability of eight non-invasive measurement techniques to distinguish changes in skin conditions over time, these changes being induced by five different irritants. The following techniques were compared in a multivariate analysis: laser-Doppler perfusion imaging (LDI), laser-Doppler flowmetry (LDF), transepidermal water loss (TEWL), visual scoring (VS), colorimetric measurements (Chromameter CR 200 a* and L* scales), Mexameter Hb scale (Mexa Hb) and capacitance (Corneometer CM 820). Irritants tested were sodium lauryl sulphate 2% (SLS), tape stripping (TS), tretinoin 0.05% (TRET), ultraviolet (UV) exposure to 30 W m(-2) UVB/95 W m(-2) UVA, and dithranol 0.5% (DIT). Measurements were performed at baseline and after 24, 48 and 72 h. The study was conducted on the upper back of 11 healthy volunteers of both sexes aged 27-51 years. For DIT it was possible to discriminate over time with CR 200 a* and L*, VS, LDI, LDF and Mexa Hb. In SLS discrimination over time was seen with TEWL and LDF. Discrimination in TS was demonstrated for TEWL, VS, CR 200 a*, CM 820, LDF, LDI and Mexa Hb. In TRET discrimination ability was seen for LDI, LDF, Mexa Hb and VS. For UV it was possible to discriminate using VS, TEWL, LDF, LDI and Mexa Hb. Different irritation patterns need different measurement modalities in order to give optimal discrimination over time.

Application of a non-invasive method to study the moisturizing effect of formulations containing vitamins A or E or ceramide on human skin

Article

Sep 2002
J COSMET SCI

Moisturizers containing vitamins A and E as well as ceramides are believed to improve the skin condition by increasing the water content of the stratum corneum. The aim of this research was to evaluate, through the capacitance method (a non-invasive method), the moisturizing effect of an O/W emulsion (non-ionic self-emulsifying base) containing vitamin A palmitate, vitamin E acetate, and ceramide III on human skin. The studies were carried out on a group of 40 healthy Caucasian female test subjects between 30 and 45 years of age, using the Corneometer CM 825 PC. Skin measurements were taken from the volunteers at 7 and 30 days after daily use (twice a day) of the tested products. The presence of vitamins A and E or ceramide III did not cause an improvement in the hydration of the stratum corneum, which means that none of those compounds strengthens the hydration effectiveness of the base formulations used, at least at the doses tested. The interpretation of electrical measurement regarding skin moisture should be made with caution; thus the results observed in this study show the importance of using different approaches (or methodologies) to verify the performance of the formulas tested. We conclude that, at the low doses typically used in cosmetic formulations, vitamins A and E and ceramide III are not likely to contribute to the hydrating effects of the base moisturizing formulation when assessed by capacitance.

Cutaneous photodamage, oxidative stress, and topical antioxidant protection

Article

Feb 2003
J AM ACAD DERMATOL

Sheldon R. Pinnell

Unlabelled: New methods to protect skin from photodamage from sun exposure are necessary if we are to conquer skin cancer and photoaging. Sunscreens are useful, but their protection is not ideal because of inadequate use, incomplete spectral protection, and toxicity. Skin naturally uses antioxidants (AOs) to protect itself from photodamage. This scientific review summarizes what is known about how photodamage occurs; why sunscreens--the current gold standard of photoprotection--are inadequate; and how topical AOs help protect against skin cancer and photoaging changes. This review is intended to be a reference source, including pertinent comprehensive reviews whenever available. Although not all AOs are included, an attempt has been made to select those AOs for which sufficient information is available to document their potential topical uses and benefits. Reviewed are the following physiologic and plant AOs: vitamin C, vitamin E, selenium, zinc, silymarin, soy isoflavones, and tea polyphenols. Their topical use may favorably supplement sunscreen protection and provide additional anticarcinogenic protection. (J Am Acad Dermatol 2003;48:1-19.) Learning objective: At the completion of this learning activity, participants should have an understanding of current information about how the sun damages skin to produce skin cancer and photoaging changes, how the skin naturally protects itself from the sun, the shortcomings of sunscreens, and the added advantages of topical AOs for photoprotection.

Assays for Hydrophilic and Lipophilic Antioxidant Capacity (oxygen radical absorbance capacity (ORAC FL )) of Plasma and Other Biological and Food Samples

Article

Jun 2003

Methods are described for the extraction and analysis of hydrophilic and lipophilic antioxidants, using modifications of the oxygen radical absorbing capacity (ORAC(FL)) procedure. These methods provide, for the first time, the ability to obtain a measure of "total antioxidant capacity" in the protein free plasma, using the same peroxyl radical generator for both lipophilic and hydrophilic antioxidants. Separation of the lipophilic and hydrophilic antioxidant fractions from plasma was accomplished by extracting with hexane after adding water and ethanol to the plasma (hexane/plasma/ethanol/water, 4:1:2:1, v/v). Lipophilic and hydrophilic antioxidants were efficiently partitioned between hexane and aqueous solvents. Conditions for controlling temperature effects and decreasing assay variability using fluorescein as the fluorescent probe were validated in different laboratories. Incubation (37 degrees C for at least 30 min) of the buffer to which AAPH was dissolved was critical in decreasing assay variability. Lipophilic antioxidants represented 33.1 +/- 1.5 and 38.2 +/- 1.9% of the total antioxidant capacity of the protein free plasma in two independent studies of 6 and 10 subjects, respectively. Methods are described for application of the assay techniques to other types of biological and food samples.

Ultraviolet A Induces Generation of Squalene Monohydroperoxide Isomers in Human Sebum and Skin Surface Lipids In Vitro and In Vivo

Article

Jul 2003

At the outermost surface of human skin, skin surface lipids are first-line targets of solar ultraviolet radiation. Therefore, we hypothesized that ultraviolet A and ultraviolet B irradiation induce photo-oxidation of skin surface lipids. To test this, sebum samples were collected from facial skin of 17 healthy volunteers, weighed, and immediately irradiated with either ultraviolet B or ultraviolet A. Squalene, the major sebum lipid, as well as photo-oxidation products were identified in sebum lipid extracts by high-performance liquid chromatography analysis. Upon ultraviolet A exposures squalene was depleted in a concentration-dependent manner, whereas an unidentified sebum lipid photo-oxidation product was detected. Using high-performance thin layer chromatography, high-performance liquid chromatography, atmospheric pressure chemical ionization mass spectrometry, and nuclear magnetic resonance, unidentified sebum lipid photo-oxidation product was identified as a mixture of squalene monohydroperoxide isomers. Squalene monohydroperoxide isomers purified from sebum were identical with squalene monohydroperoxide isomers synthesized by preparative photo-oxidation of squalene. Squalene monohydroperoxide isomers were formed even after small suberythematogenic doses of ultraviolet A (5 J per cm2). Whereas physiologic baseline levels of squalene monohydroperoxide isomers in human skin were only slightly above detection limits, squalene monohydroperoxide isomer levels were strongly increased by suberythematogenic doses of ultraviolet A both in vitro and in vivo. High-performance liquid chromatography results could be complemented by a straightforward thin layer chromatography method for rapid screening of lipid peroxide formation in human sebum/skin surface lipids. In conclusion, specific squalene monohydroperoxide isomers were identified as highly ultraviolet A sensitive skin surface lipid breakdown products that may serve as a marker for photo-oxidative stress in vitro and in vivo.

Studies on skin aging. Preparation and properties of fucose-rich oligo- and polysaccharides. Effect on fibroblast proliferation and survival

Article

Jul 2003
BIOMED PHARMACOTHER

Skin aging represents an important chapter of connective tissue aging and concerns an organ of vital importance. Here we describe the preparation as well as the biological properties of fucose-rich oligo- and polysaccharides (FROPs), composed of polymers of a trisaccharide containing galactose, acetyl galacturonic acid and fucose, from the original high molecular weight bacterial polysaccharide (Fucogel), Solabia, France). Using endoglycosidases, oligo- and polysaccharides were prepared and characterized by physical and chemical procedures. The non-reducing end-groups comprise equal amounts of galactose and fucose. The here-described biological properties are: stimulation of cell proliferation of cultured human skin fibroblasts, protection of cells against ascorbate-induced cytotoxicity due to the release of reactive oxygen species (ROS). Properties elsewhere described concern the inhibition of matrix metallo-proteinases 2 and 9 (MMP-2 and MMP-9), their expression and activation. Using fluorescein isothiocyanate (FITC)-labeled polysaccharides, their interaction with cell membranes and also their penetration and accumulation in cells, especially in the cell nucleus could be demonstrated, probably via cell-membrane receptor-mediated mechanisms. We describe some of the symptoms of skin aging and show, that the here-described polysaccharide preparations are susceptible to slow down some of the cellular and molecular mechanisms involved, partly by the mediation of the above-mentioned receptors, partly by acting directly on the regulation of gene expression.

Immediate effects of UV radiation on the skin: Modification by an antioxidant complex containing carotenoids

Article

Aug 2003

The ultraviolet (UV) portion of sunlight is involved in the induction and development of skin cancers against which a limited photoprotection may be provided by reduced time of exposure, clothing, and sunscreen applications. The concept of an effective, safe, systemic photoprotection will circumvent many of the shortcomings. The UV-induced oxidative stress is a cause of DNA damage and a few publications have shown, in humans, minimal benefits, if any, of the oral intake of antioxidant complex, contrasting with the large literature showing beneficial effects in vitro or in animal models. We investigated, in 25 healthy individuals, the capacity of an antioxidant complex (AOC) - vitamins (lycopene, beta-carotene, alpha-tocopherol), selenium - to reduce UV-induced damages. The AOC was administered orally, daily during 7 weeks. Before and after irradiations, before and after the intake of the product, six parameters were studied: skin color by chromametry, minimal erythemal dose and, on skin biopsies, sunburn cells (SBCs), p53 detected by immunohistochemistry, pigmentation index, and levels of lipoperoxides (thiobarbituric acid reaction). After the oral intake of AOC, we observed an elevation of the actinic erythema threshold (+20%, P=0.01) and a general reduction of the UV-induced erythemas, a reduction of the UV-induced p53 expression (P<0.05) and of SBCs (P<0.01), and a parallel reduction of the lipoperoxide levels (P<0.01). The pigmentation was increased (P<0.01). After the oral intake of an antioxidant complex, many parameters of the epidermal defense against UV-induced damages are significantly improved. The oral intake of AOC could provide a safe, daylong and efficient complement to photo-protective measures provided by topical and physical agents and may contribute to reduce the DNA damages leading to skin aging and skin cancers.

Moisturization and skin barrier function Dermatol

Article

Feb 2004

Over the past decade, great progress has been made toward elucidating the structure and function of the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the epidermis. SC cells (corneocytes) protect against desiccation and environmental challenge by regulating water flux and retention. Maintenance of an optimal level of hydration by the SC is largely dependent on several factors. First, intercellular lamellar lipids, organized predominantly in an orthorhombic gel phase, provide an effective barrier to the passage of water through the tissue. Secondly, the diffusion path length also retards water loss, since water must traverse the tortuous path created by the SC layers and corneocyte envelopes. Thirdly, and equally important, is natural moisturizing factor (NMF), a complex mixture of low-molecular-weight, water-soluble compounds first formed within the corneocytes by degradation of the histidine-rich protein known as filaggrin. Each maturation step leading to the formation of an effective moisture barrier--including corneocyte strengthening, lipid processing, and NMF generation--is influenced by the level of SC hydration. These processes, as well as the final step of corneodesmolysis that mediates exfoliation, are often disturbed upon environmental challenge, resulting in dry, flaky skin conditions. The present paper reviews our current understanding of the biology of the SC, particularly its homeostatic mechanisms of hydration.

A new lipophilic pro-vitamin C, tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC-IP), prevents UV-induced skin pigmentation through its anti-oxidative properties

Article

Nov 2006
J DERMATOL SCI

Vitamin C, which is a strong anti-oxidant, plays an important role in maintaining physiological states. In dermatology, Vitamin C is used for treatment of various skin problems such as de-pigmentation of hyperpigmented spots. However, Vitamin C has limited stability and permeability, and development of a Vitamin C derivative with improved properties is needed. We evaluated the effect of a lipophilic Vitamin C derivative, tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC-IP), on ultraviolet (UV)-induced skin pigmentation, to determine its potential as a more effective form of Vitamin C. The release of Vitamin C from VC-IP was examined using a reconstructed skin model following topical application of VC-IP. Anti-oxidative and anti-inflammatory activities of VC-IP were tested in cultured human keratinocytes. Subsequently, clinical test was done to clarify the effect of VC-IP on UVB-induced skin pigmentation. VC-IP released Vitamin C in physiological conditions and worked as pro-Vitamin C. In subsequent experiments, we found that VC-IP suppressed the elevation of intracellular peroxide after UVB irradiation, and enhanced cellular tolerance against UVB and reactive oxygen species such as hydrogen peroxide and tert-butyl hydroperoxide. Furthermore, VC-IP reduced the production of interleukin-1alpha and prostaglandin E2 in UVB-irradiated keratinocytes and suppressed melanocyte proliferation in conditioned culture medium prepared from UVB-irradiated keratinocytes. Finally, in a clinical study, topical application of a 3% VC-IP cream for 3 weeks suppressed pigmentation after UVB irradiation. These results demonstrate that VC-IP is a precursor of Vitamin C, and effectively suppresses UVB-induced skin pigmentation, possibly through its anti-oxidative activity.

Moisturizing effect of cosmetic formulations containing Aloe vera extract in different concentrations assessed by skin bioengineering techniques

Article

Dec 2006

The polysaccharide-rich composition of Aloe vera extracts (Aloe barbadensis Miller), often used in cosmetic formulations, may impart moisturizing properties to the product. The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect of cosmetic formulations containing different concentrations of freeze-dried Aloe vera extract on skin hydration, after a single and a 1- and 2-week period of application, by using skin bioengineering techniques. Stable formulations containing 5% (w/w) of a trilaureth-4 phosphate-based blend were supplemented with 0.10%, 0.25% or 0.50% (w/w) of freeze-dried Aloe vera extract and applied to the volar forearm of 20 female subjects. Skin conditions in terms of the water content of the stratum corneum and of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) (Corneometer CM 825 and Tewameter TM 210) were analysed before and after a single and 1- and 2-week period of daily application. After a single application, only formulations supplemented with 0.25% and 0.50% (w/w) of Aloe vera extract increased the water content of the stratum corneum, while after the 2-week period application, all formulations containing the extract (0.10%, 0.25% and 0.50%) had the same effect, in both cases as compared with the vehicle. TEWL was not modified after a single and after 1- and 2-week period of application, when compared with the vehicle. Our results show that freeze-dried Aloe vera extract is a natural effective ingredient for improving skin hydration, possibly through a humectant mechanism. Consequently, it may be used in moisturizing cosmetic formulations and also as a complement in the treatment of dry skin.

Photostability and efficacy studies of topical formulations containing UV-filters combination and vitamins A, C and E

Article

Nov 2007
INT J PHARMACEUT

It is already known that the photostability of a sunscreen is important for its performance on human skin. On the other hand, there are many formulations besides sunscreens containing combinations of UV-filters and daily use active substances with other claims like hydration and anti-aging effects. Vitamins A, C and E are frequently added in these kinds of products and it is not known if the UV-filters have some influence on the hydration and anti-aging effects of these vitamins on the skin as well as on their stability mainly when photounstable UV-filters like avobenzone and octyl methoxycinnamate are present in the formulation. Thus, the aim of this study was to evaluate the influence of two different UV-filters combinations, a photostable and a photounstable one, on the photostability as well as on the efficacy of a formulation containing vitamin A, C and E derivatives. The formulations that were investigated contained or not (vehicle: formulation 1) a combination of 0.6 % (w/w) vitamin A palmitate (1,700,000 UI/g), 2 % (w/w) vitamin E acetate and 2% (w/w) ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (formulation 2) supplemented with a photounstable UV filter combination octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC), avobenzone (AVB) and 4-methylbenzilidene camphor (MBC) (formulation 3) or with a photostable UV filter combination OMC, benzophenone-3 (BP-3) and octocrylene (OC) (formulation 4). In the photostability studies, all formulations were spread onto a glass plate and exposed to UVA/UVB irradiation. The filter components and vitamins were quantified by HPLC analysis with detection at 325 and 235 nm and by spectrophotometry. To simulate the effects of these formulations daily use, all of them (formulations 1-4) were applied on the dorsum of hairless mice, which were submitted to a controlled light-dark cycle (and were not irradiated), once a day for 5 days. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL), water content of the stratum corneum and viscoelastic properties of the skin were analyzed by using different non-invasive Biophysics Techniques in order to evaluate hydration and anti-aging effects of these formulations as well as erythema to assess skin irritation. Histopathology, viable epidermal thickness as well as the number of epidermal cell layers were also evaluated. It was observed that both UV filters combinations (photounstable one containing OMC, AVB and MBC and photostable one containing OMC, BP-3 and OC) enhanced vitamin A photostability and F4 was more photostable than F3, in terms of vitamin A. In vivo efficacy studies showed that F2, F3 and F4 enhanced the viable epidermal thickness, the number of epidermal cell layers, TEWL and Uv/Ue parameter, when compared to the vehicle, which can suggest that they enhanced viable epidermis hydration and acted in cell renewal. However formulation 2 (containing only vitamins), which was the most photounstable formulation, provoked an irritation on hairless mouse skin, and consequently it cannot be considered as safe as the other formulations. It can be concluded that both UV filters combinations did not influence the hydration and anti-aging effects of the formulations containing the vitamins under study and reduced the skin irritation observed when the vitamins were present in the formulation. In addition, the photostable UV-filters combination had the highest recovery of vitamin A in the photostability studies. Finally, it could be suggested that the presence of UV-filters can be considered interesting for the reduction of skin irritation and the most suitable formulation was the one containing the combinations of vitamins A, C and E with photostable UV-filters.

Nickel allergy: Relationship between patch test and repeated open application test thresholds

Article

Nov 2007

The frequency of nickel allergy varies between different population groups. Exposure regulation has proven effective in decreasing the frequency. Experimental studies with other allergens have shown a significant relation between patch test reactivity and repeated open application test (ROAT) reactivity. This study was aimed at determining the elicitation threshold in nickel-allergic individuals in a patch test and a ROAT, and comparing the threshold from these two test methods. Twenty nickel-allergic persons were tested with a dilution series of 19 concentrations in a patch test and a dilution series of three concentrations in a ROAT, with duration of up to 21 days. Eighteen persons with no nickel allergy were included as control group for the ROAT. The predicted dose which will elicit a reaction in 10% of allergic individuals was calculated to be 0.78 microg nickel cm(-2) in the patch test. The threshold for the ROAT (in microg nickel cm(-2) per application) was significantly lower than the threshold for the patch test, while the dose-response for the accumulated ROAT dose at 1 week, 2 weeks and 3 weeks was very similar to the patch test dose-response; indeed, there was no statistically significant difference. For elicitation of nickel allergy the elicitation threshold for the patch test is higher than the elicitation threshold (per application) for the ROAT, but is approximately the same as the accumulated elicitation threshold for the ROAT. This may be important for risk assessment based on dose-response results from allergic patients.

The cornified cell envelope: An important marker of stratum corneum maturation in healthy and dry skin

Article

Aug 2003

The cornified cell envelope (CE) formed by transglutaminase-mediated ε-(γ-glutamyl)lysine cross-linking of specialized corneocyte proteins is the most insoluble component of the terminally differentiated keratinocyte. Under normal Nomarski optics, two types of CE are readily distinguishable: an irregularly shaped, readily deformed ‘fragile’ envelope (CEf), which predominates in the deepest layers of the stratum corneum, and a polygonal “resilient” or ‘rigid’ envelope (CEr), which represents over 80% of the CE population in the superficial layers. This distinct spatial distribution indicates a maturation of the CE from the fragile to the resilient morphology during stratum corneum maturation. In this study, we have examined morphological and physical changes occurring in the CE during the terminal differentiation. The proportion of CEf and CEr present in superficial samples of stratum corneum were readily distinguishable following staining with Tetrarhodamine isothiocyanate (TRITC) and showed significant body site variation. The percentage of CEf was highest on samples recovered from exposed body sites (back of hand > cheek > inner arm [bicep region]) suggesting innate body site differences or that photodamage and other environmental trauma can reduce or delay normal CE maturation. Soap-induced dryness resulted in a significant decrease in CE maturation coincidental with reduced corneodesmosomal hydrolysis. Effective moisturization of winter-induced dry skin enhanced CE maturation (33% increase in TRITC fluorescence, n = 14 following 4-week treatment). Using a novel micromanipulation instrument, the force required (µN) to maximally deform individual CEf and CEr was compared. CEf recovered from deep stratum corneum were significantly softer and weaker than CEr recovered from superficial layers. These studies indicate that the normal process of CE maturation is associated with an actual strengthening of this insoluble protective structure and that the impairment of this process is associated with poor quality of the stratum corneum. L'enveloppe de la cellule cornée (CE), formée par la réticulation de protéines spécialisées, via la formation de ponts ε-(γ-glutamyl)lysine, est le composant le plus insoluble du kératinocyte totalement différencié. Dans des conditions optiques du type Nomarski classique, deux types de CE sont identifiables: l'un de forme irrégulière, à l'enveloppe aisément fragile et déformée (Cef) qui prédomine dans les couches les plus profondes de la peau et l'autre, une enveloppe polygonale, “rigide”“résistante” (CEr) qui représente environ 80% des CE des couches les plus superficielles. Cette nette distribution spatiale indique une maturation de la CE allant de la morphologie fragile vers résistante durant la maturation du stratum corneum. Dans cette étude, nous avons examiné les modifications morphologiques et physiques apportées à la CE au cours de la différentiation terminale. Les proportions des CEf et CEr présentes dans les échantillons de stratum corneum les plus superficiels étaient aisément distinguées par la colouration à l'isothiocyanate de Tetrarhodamine (TRITC) et montraient d'importantes variations selon le site cutané. Le pourcentage de Cef était le plus élevé dans des sites exposés (main-site dorsal > joue > biceps interne), indiquant que les dommages solaires et autres stress environnementaux réduisent ou retardent la maturation normale des CE. La sécheresse induitepar le savon a conduit à une chute significative dans la maturation de la CE concomitante à une hydrolyse réduite des desmosomes. Une hydratation efficace de la peau sèche hivernale augmentait la maturation de la CE (+33% du signal fluorescent du TRITC, n = 14, suite à un traitement de 4 semaines). L'utilization d'un nouvel instrument de micromanipulation permet de comparer les forces (µN) requises pour déformer au maximum les CEr et CEf individuelles. Les CEf obtenues des couches profondes du stratum corneum étaient significativement plus faibles que celles des CEr des couches les plus superficielles. Ces études indiquent que le processus normal de la maturation de la CE est associéà un véritable renforcement de cette structure insoluble et protectrice et que son affaiblissement conduit à un stratum corneum de mauvaise qualité.

Evaluation of the protective effect of alpha-tocopheryl acetate in a sunscreen, preventing erythema formation, transepidermal water loss and sunburn cell formation

Jan 2003
213

Gaspar

Gaspar, L.R., Maia Campos, P.M.B.G., 2003. Evaluation of the protective effect of alpha-tocopheryl acetate in a sunscreen, preventing erythema formation, transepidermal water loss and sunburn cell formation. IFSCC Magazine 6, 213-217.

Evaluation of in vitro photostability of different sunscreens and its influence on in vivo SPF

L R Gaspar
A Nakano
I M N S R Santos
Maia Campos

Gaspar, L.R., Nakano, A., Dos Santos, I.M.N.S.R., Maia Campos, P.M.B.G., 2006. Evaluation of in vitro photostability of different sunscreens and its influence on in vivo SPF. In: 24th IFSCC Congress Osaka, 2006.

Evaluation of the efficacy of a Rooibos extract containing antiwrinkle cream III Spring Symposium of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology (EADV)

H Dobrev

Dobrev, H., 2005. Evaluation of the efficacy of a Rooibos extract containing antiwrinkle cream III Spring Symposium of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology (EADV), May 19-21, 2005, Sofia, Bulgaria. Book of Abstracts: p. 84 (P08.2).

Jan 1995

A A Fischer

Fischer, A.A., 1995. Contact Dermatitis, fourth ed., Edited by Lea & Febiger, Philadelphia, 1020 p.

Nutraceuticals in Health and Disease Prevention. Marcel Dekker

Jan 2001
318

K Kramer
P P Hoppe
L Packer

Kramer, K., Hoppe, P.P., Packer, L., 2001. Nutraceuticals in Health and Disease Prevention. Marcel Dekker, New York. 318p.

Histopathological, morphometric and stereological studies of dermocosmetic skin formulations containing vitamin A and/or glycolic acid

Jan 1999
J COSMET SCI
159-170

Maia Campos
P M B G Ricci
G Semprini
M Lopes

Maia Campos, P.M.B.G., Ricci, G., Semprini, M., Lopes, R.A., 1999. Histopathological, morphometric and stereological studies of dermocosmetic skin formulations containing vitamin A and/or glycolic acid. J. Cosmet. Sci. 50, 159-170.

Evaluation of dermatological effects of cosmetic formulations containing Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract and vitamins

Abstract

No full-text available

Recommended publications

Submit your application to win an all-inclusive 11-days at Sao Paulo School of Advanced Sciences on...

Effects of water temperature on surfactant-induced skin irritation