Article

Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Care

Authors:
To read the full-text of this research, you can request a copy directly from the authors.

Abstract

Natural oils are advocated and used throughout the world as part of neonatal skin care, but there is an absence of evidence to support this practice. The goal of the current study was to ascertain the effect of olive oil and sunflower seed oil on the biophysical properties of the skin. Nineteen adult volunteers with and without a history of atopic dermatitis were recruited into two randomized forearm-controlled mechanistic studies. The first cohort applied six drops of olive oil to one forearm twice daily for 5 weeks. The second cohort applied six drops of olive oil to one forearm and six drops of sunflower seed oil to the other twice daily for 4 weeks. The effect of the treatments was evaluated by determining stratum corneum integrity and cohesion, intercorneocyte cohesion, moisturization, skin-surface pH, and erythema. Topical application of olive oil for 4 weeks caused a significant reduction in stratum corneum integrity and induced mild erythema in volunteers with and without a history of atopic dermatitis. Sunflower seed oil preserved stratum corneum integrity, did not cause erythema, and improved hydration in the same volunteers. In contrast to sunflower seed oil, topical treatment with olive oil significantly damages the skin barrier, and therefore has the potential to promote the development of, and exacerbate existing, atopic dermatitis. The use of olive oil for the treatment of dry skin and infant massage should therefore be discouraged. These findings challenge the unfounded belief that all natural oils are beneficial for the skin and highlight the need for further research.

No full-text available

Request Full-text Paper PDF

To read the full-text of this research,
you can request a copy directly from the authors.

... 8,9 Moisturizers may contain ingredients that act as emollients, humectants, or occlusives that may help alleviate inflammation or target barrier health to enhance hydration and improve barrier function. 10 There has been growing interest in the use of topical plantbased oils with evidence showing that topical application of coconut and sunflower seed oils may improve AD 11,12 and reduce the presence of Staphylococcus aureus. 13 One of the limitations of coconut oil and sunflower seed oil is that there can be batch-tobatch variations and it is not clear whether different sources of plant-based oils may differ in their topical effects. ...
... Numerous studies have chronicled the barrier improvement effects of sunflower oil rich in linoleic acid content or coconut oil rich in caprylic acid content as natural phytochemicals and their utility to treat and alleviate symptoms of compromised skin, including xerosis and AD. 11,12,18,19 In an earlier study, Chaudhuri and Bojanowski have demonstrated that IDC upregulates genes associated with improvements in the epidermal permeability barrier to promote skin hydration. 17 Gene expression profiling on IDL revealed that it upregulated expression of genes associated with keratinocyte differentiation and downregulated gene expression associated with inflammation. ...
... There was a striking difference in the IDEAS group in those who achieved EASI 75 and a reduction for a need for topical steroids within the first 2 weeks of use. Although there have been no prior studies performed with IDEAS, previous studies with the topical application of sunflower seed oil and coconut oil have shown improvements in skin barrier function and AD, 11,12,18,28 which is consistent with our findings. ...
Article
Full-text available
Background Tetrahexydecyl ascorbate (THDA) is a lipophilic precursor to ascorbic acid that may be stabilized by acetyl zingerone (AZ). Studies have shown that the topical application of THDA may have photoprotective effects. Similarly, AZ has been shown to mitigate oxidative and inflammatory stress, thereby improving the appearance of photoaging. Aims To examine the effects of THDA and AZ (THDA‐AZ) on skin photoaging compared to THDA alone. Patients/Methods In this double‐blind, randomized controlled trial, healthy individuals aged 30 to 65 were included and 44 participants were randomized to receive either THDA‐AZ (THDA 5% + AZ 1%) or THDA only (THDA 5%) for 8 weeks. Facial photographs were taken at 0, 4, and 8 weeks to analyze wrinkle severity, pigment intensity, and redness intensity. A skin colorimeter was used to assess infraorbital pigmentation and erythema. Self‐perception of skin and tolerability were assessed through questionnaires. Results Average wrinkle severity was significantly decreased in the THDA‐AZ group at Weeks 4 and 8 by 0.75% (p = 0.023) and 3.72% (p = 0.048), respectively, compared to the THDA group where wrinkle severity at Weeks 4 and 8 was increased by 7.88% and 4.48%, respectively. Facial pigment intensity was significantly decreased in the THDA‐AZ group by 4.10% (p = 0.0002) at Week 8 compared to a 0.69% decrease in the THDA group. Facial redness intensity was decreased in the THDA‐AZ group at Weeks 4 and 8 by 3.73% (p = 0.0162) and 14.25% (p = 0.045), respectively, compared to the THDA group where at Weeks 4 and 8 erythema increased by 27.5% and 8.34%, respectively. There were no significant differences in either group for infraorbital pigmentation or erythema. Conclusions Daily use of combined THDA and AZ may improve facial wrinkle severity, pigment intensity, and erythema to a greater extent than THDA. While THDA alone increases facial wrinkle severity and erythema, the addition of AZ reduces both.
... 8,9 Moisturizers may contain ingredients that act as emollients, humectants, or occlusives that may help alleviate inflammation or target barrier health to enhance hydration and improve barrier function. 10 There has been growing interest in the use of topical plantbased oils with evidence showing that topical application of coconut and sunflower seed oils may improve AD 11,12 and reduce the presence of Staphylococcus aureus. 13 One of the limitations of coconut oil and sunflower seed oil is that there can be batch-tobatch variations and it is not clear whether different sources of plant-based oils may differ in their topical effects. ...
... Numerous studies have chronicled the barrier improvement effects of sunflower oil rich in linoleic acid content or coconut oil rich in caprylic acid content as natural phytochemicals and their utility to treat and alleviate symptoms of compromised skin, including xerosis and AD. 11,12,18,19 In an earlier study, Chaudhuri and Bojanowski have demonstrated that IDC upregulates genes associated with improvements in the epidermal permeability barrier to promote skin hydration. 17 Gene expression profiling on IDL revealed that it upregulated expression of genes associated with keratinocyte differentiation and downregulated gene expression associated with inflammation. ...
... There was a striking difference in the IDEAS group in those who achieved EASI 75 and a reduction for a need for topical steroids within the first 2 weeks of use. Although there have been no prior studies performed with IDEAS, previous studies with the topical application of sunflower seed oil and coconut oil have shown improvements in skin barrier function and AD, 11,12,18,28 which is consistent with our findings. ...
Article
Full-text available
Background: Preliminary studies support the use of topical coconut and sunflower seed oil for atopic dermatitis (AD). However, standardized topical formulations of fatty acids from these sources have not been studied. Objective: This study investigates whether coconut oil- and sunflower seed oil-derived isosorbide diesters can be used in conjunction with colloidal oatmeal to improve itch, AD severity, and the need for topical steroids in adults. Methods: This was a single-center, 4-week, randomized, double-blind, and vehicle-controlled study conducted between 2021 and 2022. Thirty-two male and female adults with mild-to-moderate AD were enrolled and completed the study. Participants were randomized to receive either 0.1% colloidal oatmeal (vehicle) or isosorbide diesters (IDEAS, 4% isosorbide dicaprylate and 4% isosorbide disunflowerseedate) along with 0.1% colloidal oatmeal. The main outcomes of the study were changes in the visual analogue rating of itch and 75% improvement in the Eczema Area and Severity Index score (EASI 75) at 4 weeks. Other measures included the use of topical steroids and the relative abundance of skin Staphylococcus aureus. Results: Participants in the IDEAS group had a 65.6% improvement in itch compared with 43.8% in the vehicle group (P = 0.013). In total, 56.5% and 25% of the those in the IDEAS and vehicle groups, respectively, achieved EASI 75 at 4 weeks (P = 0.07). There was no difference in skin hydration or transepidermal water loss. The relative abundance of S. aureus was decreased in the IDEAS group at week 4 compared with no change in the vehicle group (P = 0.044). Topical corticosteroid use increased in the vehicle group compared with a decrease in the IDEAS group at week 1 (292.5% vs 24.8%; P value = 0.039) and week 2 (220% vs 46%; P value = 0.08). Conclusions: Topical application of emollients containing coconut oil- and sunflower seed oil-derived fatty esters may improve itch, reduce topical steroid use, and reduce the relative abundance of S. aureus in mild-to-moderate AD. CTR number: NCT04831892.
... The use of olive oil for newborns is common in Nigeria and worldwide, but studies have shown that olive oil may be detrimental to the skin barrier. Danby et al. reported that olive oil increased TEWL in AD and non-AD patients compared to sunflower oil-treated and non-treated 44,45 controls. This barrier-damaging property is hypothesised to be due to the high oleic acid composition, which increases the permeability of the epidermal barrier and disrupts the arrangement of 44 the lipid lamellar. ...
... Danby et al. reported that olive oil increased TEWL in AD and non-AD patients compared to sunflower oil-treated and non-treated 44,45 controls. This barrier-damaging property is hypothesised to be due to the high oleic acid composition, which increases the permeability of the epidermal barrier and disrupts the arrangement of 44 the lipid lamellar. Coconut oil and palm oil used in traditional skin care have low oleic acid 44,45 using oils for neonatal skin care. ...
... This barrier-damaging property is hypothesised to be due to the high oleic acid composition, which increases the permeability of the epidermal barrier and disrupts the arrangement of 44 the lipid lamellar. Coconut oil and palm oil used in traditional skin care have low oleic acid 44,45 using oils for neonatal skin care. ...
Article
Full-text available
Background: Atopic dermatitis (AD) is the most common chronic inflammatory dermatosis in children, with increasing global prevalence. Modes of birth and skincare practices in early life are postulated to influence the development of AD and other atopic conditions. This study sought to explore neonatal skin care practices and the prevalence of AD in rural and urban communities in Southwest Nigeria. Methods: This exploratory observational study was conducted over six months (Jan – June 2017) in Southwest Nigeria. Birth processes and postpartum skin care products were compared between 50 parturient women at six government-licensed traditional birth attendant (TBA) centres in 3 rural communities and 50 parturient women in 3 urban government maternity centres. The frequency of AD in under-five clinic records of these communities was also compared. Results: All births were vaginal at the TBA centres, while 44% were via caesarean section at the urban maternity hospitals. The neonatal skin care regimen at the TBA centres comprised herb-infused water, traditional black soap, and vegetable oil moisturizers, all pH 5-7. The skin care regimen in urban centres included tap water, olive oil, baby soaps, and proprietary moisturizers, all pH 8-10. The frequency of AD in under-5 children at rural community clinics was 0.08%, and 6% at the urban health facilities (p=0.001). Conclusion: In rural communities in Southwest Nigeria, vaginal deliveries were the norm, and the skin care regimen during the neonatal period comprised early skin-to-skin contact and pH-neutral or acidic skin care products, while in urban areas, caesarean section births were common, skin-to-skin contact was often delayed, and skin care products were mostly alkaline. The prevalence of atopic dermatitis was much lower in rural communities than in urban communities, but further studies are needed to determine if there is a direct relationship between neonatal skin care practices, modes of birth, and AD prevalence. Keywords – Atopic dermatitis, neonatal skincare, traditional skin care, skin microbiota, emollients
... It has also been shown to have no adverse skin reactions. [10,12] The objective of this study was to determine the efficacy and safety of sunflower oil in mild to moderate plaque-type psoriasis in comparison to betamethasone valerate cream at the outpatient department of a tertiary hospital. It specifically aimed to compare the effect of sunflower oil + placebo cream (Group SO) versus betamethasone valerate cream + placebo oil (Group BC) versus sunflower oil + betamethasone valerate cream (Group SO-BC) at weeks 4 and 8 in terms of: 1) the proportion of patients achieving Psoriasis Area and Severity Index (PASI) ≥50; 2) mean PASI scores; 3) mean percentage improvement of PASI; 4) mean reduction in score of erythema, scaling, and induration; 5) mean reduction in Dermatology Life Quality Index (DLQI) score at 8 th week of treatment compared to baseline and; 6) incidence of adverse events for each treatment group at the 4 th and 8 th week. ...
... Sunflower oil has a high content of linoleic acid which is a potent activator of peroxisome proliferator activated receptor-alpha (PPAR-alpha). [12] In an experiment made by Rivier et al, they demonstrated that there was a decrease in PPARalpha in the lesional skin of patients with psoriasis. [25] A topical PPAR-alpha agonist was shown to decrease tumor necrosis factor alpha (TNF-alpha) and interleukin-1 alpha in the skin. ...
... [28] Studies on sunflower oil showed that it preserved the stratum corneum integrity, improved skin hydration by 18%, and reduced dryness and scaling by 54%. [12,29] Sunflower oil is composed of 55-70% linoleic acid, an essential polyunsaturated omega-6 fatty acid with 2 cis double bonds. [30] A linoleic acid transporter is present on keratinocytes that enables the absorption of sunflower oil which contributes to the formation of a functional epidermal barrier. ...
Article
Full-text available
Background: Psoriasis is a chronic, complex, inflammatory disease that needs safe and effective treatment options to decrease its disease burden. Objectives: To determine the efficacy and safety of sunflower oil in mild to moderate plaque-type psoriasis at the outpatient department of a tertiary hospital. Methods: This was an 8-week, single-center, randomized, double-blind controlled trial that compared the efficacy and safety of sunflower oil + placebo cream (Group SO), betamethasone valerate cream + placebo oil (Group BC), sunflower oil + betamethasone valerate cream (Group SO-BC) in mild to moderate plaque-type psoriasis. Psoriasis Area Severity Index (PASI) was used to measure the extent of psoriasis by assessing the erythema, induration, scaling, and body surface area involvement. The difference from baseline PASI was recorded. The Dermatology Life Quality Index (DLQI) questionnaire was used to measure the impact of psoriasis on the patient’s quality of life. Results: Fifty-one patients were randomized and blinded to three treatment arms; evaluated at baseline, week 4 and 8. The proportion of patients who achieved PASI ≥50 at week 4 was 29% in Group SO, 38% in Group BC, and 60% in Group SO-BC. By week 8, Groups SO and BC achieved 80% while Group SO-BC achieved 93%. There was significant decline of PASI at week 4 and week 8 compared to baseline. The mean percentage change of PASI was highest at Group SO-BC followed by Group BC and lastly Group SO at week 4 and week 8. The mean reduction in score for scaling was significantly higher in Group SO-BC. Mean reduction in induration and erythema was not statistically significant across the three groups. There was 40-50% improvement in DLQI scores in all groups. There were no adverse events. Conclusion: This study showed that sunflower oil is effective and safe in mild to moderate plaque-type psoriasis.
... Among the fatty acids, both in colostrum 1 and 2, oleic acid and palmitic acid were the dominant components with the highest contents: 22.11% and 23.46% and 37.41% and 37.14%, respectively. Topical application of oleic acid may compromise the integrity of the lipid barrier, as evidenced by research on olive oil, which is also predominantly composed of oleic acid [27][28][29]. Its topical application by healthy individuals significantly compromised the integrity of the stratum corneum and induced mild erythema [27]. ...
... Topical application of oleic acid may compromise the integrity of the lipid barrier, as evidenced by research on olive oil, which is also predominantly composed of oleic acid [27][28][29]. Its topical application by healthy individuals significantly compromised the integrity of the stratum corneum and induced mild erythema [27]. ...
Article
Full-text available
Colostrum is gaining popularity in cosmetic products. The present study compared the composition and selected biological properties of colostrum from Polish sheep (colostrum 1) and Swiss sheep (colostrum 2), particularly those that can affect healthy or diseased skin. The antioxidant activity of the colostrums was measured using ABTS and DPPH assays. The effect on the proliferation of human skin fibroblasts, neonatal epidermal keratinocytes, and human diabetic fibroblast (dHF) cells isolated from diabetic foot ulcers was also assayed in vitro by MTT and Presto Blue tests, respectively. The colostrum simulated dHF cell proliferation by up to 115.4%. The highest used concentration of colostrum 1 stimulated normal fibroblast proliferation by 191.2% (24 h) and 222.2% (48 h). Both colostrums inhibited epidermal keratinocyte viability. The influence of the colostrums on the expression of genes related to proliferation (Ki67) and immune response (IL-6, PTGS-2, TSG-6) in dHF cells were compared. Colostrum 1 increased the rate of wound closure (scar test). Analysis of total fat, protein and fatty acid content found the Polish colostrum to be a richer source of fat than the Swiss colostrum, which contained a larger amount of protein. Both colostrums exhibit properties that suggest they could be effective components in cosmetic or medicinal formulations for skin care, especially supporting its regeneration, rejuvenation, and wound healing.
... 91 An increased risk of atopic dermatitis and its exacerbation were reported with the use of olive oil. 97 Mustard oil is demonstrated to display adverse effects -increased cutaneous water loss, delayed functional maturation of the skin barrier, and an escalated risk for contact dermatitis due to the presence of allyl isothiocyanate. 10,91,98 Oils used for cooking and in the kitchen should be avoided as these are chemically heterogeneous, sensitive to oxidation and light, and possess variable biological activity; unpredictable effects may occur upon topical application. ...
... 101 An abnormal epidermal lipid layering (typical of impaired barrier function), reduced stratum corneum integrity, and an enhanced TEWL following epidermal damage have been observed in neonates treated with olive oil. 97 Therefore, the use of olive oil for infant massage and the treatment of dry skin should be discouraged. 97 ...
Article
Full-text available
Purpose: Neonatal skin care practices guided by personal experience and preferences might be substantially different across different hospital settings. The aim of this consensus recommendation is to provide clinical practice guidance to healthcare practitioners on evidence-based neonatal skin care practices from delivery-to-discharge, in hospital settings. Patients and methods: A Scientific Advisory Board meeting on "Evidence-based Neonatal Skin Care Practices and Protocols" was held in December 2020 with an expert panel comprising neonatologists, pediatricians, obstetricians and gynecologists and pediatric dermatologist. Comprehensive literature search was performed up to 23 March 2021 using PubMed and Google Scholar to retrieve relevant evidence. Results: Recommendations were developed on critical aspects of skin care in healthy full-term neonates including cleansing at birth, skin-to-skin care, cord care, diaper area care, initial and routine bathing, cleansers and emollients use, and criteria to choose appropriate skin care products. Recommendations include inclusion of skin assessment in routine neonatal care, first bath timing after cardio-respiratory and thermal stabilization, 6-24 hours after birth; bathing with water alone or adding a mild liquid cleanser could be considered appropriate as it does not impact the developing skin barrier; use of emollients is recommended for neonates with higher risk of development of eczema to maintain and enhance skin barrier function and integrity; and inclusion of skin care advice in neonatal discharge checklist. Importance of rigorous quality control, high-quality clinical trials for assessment of baby products, usage of products that are formulated appropriately for newborns, and full label transparency for baby products were highlighted. The panel identified gaps in literature and discussed the scope for future research. Conclusion: These recommendations may help to standardize evidence-based skin care for healthy full-term neonates in Indian hospital settings to improve the quality of care that neonates receive in hospital and facilitate improvement in overall neonatal health outcomes.
... On the basis of its phytochemical composition, the seed oil of sunflower has a broad range of pharmacological activities. In vitro and in vivo studies have established the dermoprotective impact of HAO as a result of increased epidermal lipid production and decreased inflammatory processes [3,35,36]. In an experiment with rats, HAO rich in oleic and linoleic acid have also displayed a cardioprotective effect, reflected by a reduction in the occurrence of life-threatening arrhythmias [37]. ...
... Danby et al. conducted a clinical study in order to determine the protective effect of HAO in AD. Therefore, the oil, rich in linoleic acid (60.9%), demonstrated the ability to maintain the stratum corneum integrity, to hydrate the skin and to reduce the severity of AD without causing erythema [3]. In the same line, in a comprehensive review, Karagounis et al. established that the topical application of sunflower oil, containing linoleic acid as main compound, improve the skin barrier function in skin diseases such as AD and xerosis [58]. ...
Article
Full-text available
The present study was aimed to evaluate the oxidative stability as well as to assess the protective effect of the mixture of Helianthus annuus L. (HAO) and Oenothera biennis L. (OBO) oils on 3D tissue models of skin irritation and phototoxicity. The following methods were used: GS analysis (fatty acids composition), thiobarbituric acid-reactive substances assay (TBA) (lipid oxidation degree of tested samples), 3D EpiDerm models (skin irritation and phototoxicity). For HAO the detected saturated fatty acids (SFA) were palmitic acid (7.179%), stearic acid (3.586%), eicosanoic (0.138%) and docosanoic acid (0.548%) The monounsaturated acids (MUFA) were palmitoleic acid (0.158%) and oleic acid (28.249%) and the polyunsaturated acids (PUFA) were linoleic acid (59.941%) and linolenic acid (0.208%). For OBO the detected SFA were myristic acid (0.325%), pentadecylic acid (0.281%), palmitic (7.2%), stearic (2.88%), and arachidic acid (0.275%). Regarding MUFA, even a lower proportion (8.196%) was observed, predominantly being oleic acid, cis form (7.175%), oleic (n10) (0.558%) and 11-eicosenoic (0.210%) acids. The higher content was found for PUFA (82.247%), the most significant proportions being linoleic acid (72.093%), arachidonic acid (9.812%) and linolenic (0.233%). Obtained data indicate a good oxidative stability and biocompatibility of the mixture on the 3D EpiDerm models with no irritant and no phototoxic effects. Oenothera biennis L. oil may be an excellent natural choice in order to delay or prevent oxidative damage of Helianthus annuus L. oil.
... Sunflower seed oil is known to maintain the integrity of the stratum corneum and improve hydration of adult skin without inducing erythema [18]. Phytic acid is an antioxidant derived from grains, legumes and rice. ...
... Sunflower oil, due to its oleic and linoleic acid content, is a suitable ingredient in skin care products. It has been shown to preserve the integrity of the stratum corneum and promote skin hydration without causing erythema [39,40]. Butyrospermum parkii, which is characterized by its higher melting point and semi-solid consistency, also optimizes skin properties through the mechanism of relipidation [41]. ...
Article
Full-text available
Emulsion products with natural antimicrobials are becoming increasingly popular for topical application. Mandelic Acid is interesting in cosmetics due to its potent exfoliating properties, which have driven advancements in skincare technologies. Essential oils have various properties, of which the most useful in cosmetics are those that do not cause irritation, smell pleasant, and have other beneficial properties such as antimicrobial effects. Emulsions with Mandelic Acid and essential oils from Satureja montana, Lemongrass, and Litsea cubeba were formulated and microbiologically tested for their preservative effectiveness. The effect of the treatments on skin condition was monitored by non-invasive diagnostic methods, such as hydration, transepidermal water loss, and pH value. Sensory analysis revealed that the matrix containing Mandelic Acid alone or combined with Litsea Cubeba Oil was the best-performing formulation, consistent with the compliant results of antimicrobial efficacy. The topical form of this cosmetic product has demonstrated excellent preservative activity and desirable biophysical efficacy on the skin.
... According to studies [60], sunflower seed oil contains higher concentrations of linoleic acid compared to olive oil. Studies [60,65,66] have shown that linoleic acid acted as an agonist of peroxisome proliferator activated receptors (PPAR), which stimulates keratinocyte proliferation and synthesis of lipids, cholesterol or ceramides. Consequently, the skin barrier is strengthened [60,65]. ...
Article
Full-text available
Atopic dermatitis is a chronic and multifactorial inflammatory dermatosis. Recurrent eczematous lesions and intense pruritus very often reduce the quality of life of patients, affecting their mental health. For this reason, it is necessary to undertake treatment. Treatment should be characterized by an individual approach to the patient, taking into account the predominant pathogenetic factors in the development of atopic dermatitis and systematic skin care. Soothing the typical symptoms of AD, i.e., dry skin and persistent itching, involves emollients, which counteract xerosis and reduce the feeling of itching. Studies confirm that the regular use of emollients in patients with AD prolongs the period between relapses and alleviates the intensity of symptoms during periods of disease severity. This review paper aims to highlight the challenges that patients with atopic dermatitis face. This work will also present an indication of the rationale for the use of emollients in this condition, as well as an indication of the forms of their application in therapeutic and care preparations.
... There is extensive research on the chemical composition and properties of these plant oils, which has highlighted the importance of long-term skin bioengineering studies. Instrumental efficacy studies have been developed on 2-month skin; however, no cosmetic formulation has been found in which the percentage improvement in skin hydration is highly significant [20,21]. In addition, long-term studies on topical creams have also been conducted without adequate sample sizes to support the hydration or elasticity effect [22]. ...
Article
Full-text available
Vegetable oils and extracts have been used from ancient times for skin care. The aim of this study was to design and evaluate the physicochemical, organoleptic, and microbiological characteristics and the instrumental efficacy in vivo of a cosmetic formula named “ASC Cream”, containing sangre de grado resin extract (Croton lechleri) and vegetable oils obtained from moriche palm (Mauritia flexuosa L.), goldenberry (Physalis peruviana), super sacha peanut (Plukenetia huayllabambana sp. nov.), and sacha peanut (Plukenetia volubilis L.). Instrumental efficacy, skin hydration and skin pH were tested in vivo in 24 healthy female volunteers between 40 and 65 years old, using non-invasive skin bioengineering equipment from Courage + Khazaka Electronics, both in the short term (30 min, 1 h and 3 h) and long term (14 and 28 days). The main findings were increased immediate hydration (132.4%) and long-term hydration (143.6%), showing a statistically significant average improvement (p < 0.05) without altering the skin pH. In conclusion, a balanced combination of the extract and oils significantly increases hydration levels while maintaining skin pH.
... Sunflower oil is rich in vitamin E, which provides antioxidant properties that protect cells from damage, support immune function, and keep skin and eyes healthy. Consequently, it is frequently used in skincare products, as it helps maintaining skin hydration, acts as a barrier against external pollutants, and can help treating wounds and reducing signs of aging [42]. The experimental approach was characterized by three steps: (i) increasing the viscosity of the dispersing medium with Sodium Alginate; (ii) stabilizing the interface through the use of Pluronics; (iii) combining the two materials and study the resulting emulsions stability. ...
Article
Full-text available
Emulsions play a pivotal role in many industrial fields, including food, pharmaceutics, and cosmetics. This paper explores the simultaneous effects of varying concentrations of Pluronic and Sodium Alginate (Alg), with particular attention to the resulting stability and the rheological properties of the incoming oil-in-water emulsions. Pluronics are used as amphiphilic molecules to stabilize the oil droplet interface, Alg is instead used to increase the viscosity of the suspending medium in a way to slow down droplet coalescence. High shear mixing is used to prepare the emulsions, and rheology and optical microscopy are employed to assess their microstructure. By optimizing both Alg and Pluronic concentrations, emulsions stable up to 90 days are achieved.
... Oleic acid has skinbeneficial moisturizing and nourishing effects. It contributes to the preservation of the skin's natural moisture barrier, limiting water loss and boosting hydration [37]. Topical oleic acid use has been shown to increase skin suppleness, minimize wrinkles, and improve overall skin health [38]. ...
Article
Full-text available
As science and technology advanced, antimicrobial agents were discovered, bringing with them the burden of antimicrobial resistance. This led to the hunt for effective techniques to combat microbial diseases. Chromolaena odorata is often used for traditional wound healing since it helps to stop bleeding quickly. Chromolaena odorata of the Asteraceae family is one of the world's most invasive weeds. It is also known as Siam weed, devil weed, French weed, communist weed, hagonoy, co chon triffid weed, and Awolowo, Akintola, and Obiarakara weed. Chromolaena odorata is often used for traditional wound healing since it helps to stop bleeding quickly. Several studies have shown that Siam weed extract promotes hemostasis and wound healing. The purpose of this research is to evaluate the bioactive components and antibacterial efficacy of different extracts of Chromolaena odorata on various microbiological isolates. Fresh leaves were collected, identified, air-dried, and ground. Cold maceration and soxhlet extraction were carried out using ethanol and n-hexane as extractive solvents, respectively. The chemical composition was identified using the gas chromatography-mass spectrometry technique, and the antibacterial action was tested using established protocols. The antimicrobial test revealed that the aqueous extract had a bacteriostatic effect, but the ethanol extract had a bactericidal effect against microbiological isolates at a concentration of 200mg/mL. The most prevalent bioactive chemicals discovered in both extracts are oleic acid, octadecanoic acid, and hexadecanoic acid. The extracts possessed antibacterial capabilities and included certain bioactive components, which might contribute to their overall efficacy, according to this research.
... In terms of skin homeostasis, as the most abundant PUFA in the epidermis, LA has several beneficial properties such as its maintenance of the integrity of the epidermal water permeability barrier [5,9,34,35]. Indeed, in dry atopic skin, topical application of sunflower seed oil (whose main lipid component is LA) preserved the integrity of the stratum corneum and improved hydration due to increased keratinocyte proliferation, lipid synthesis and efficient activation of PPAR-α [36,37], a key transcription factor responsible for lipid production in sebocytes [21,38]. In the case of acne patients whose sebum and epidermal lipids are characterized by decreased levels of LA [39], a partial explanation may be offered by the finding that LA may be diluted within the increased amount of sebum [14], as sebum was found to diffuse into follicular keratinocytes. ...
Article
Full-text available
Linoleic acid (LA) is an essential omega-6 polyunsaturated fatty acid (PUFA) derived from the diet. Sebocytes, whose primary role is to moisturise the skin, process free fatty acids (FFAs) to produce the lipid-rich sebum. Importantly, like other sebum components such as palmitic acid (PA), LA and its derivative arachidonic acid (AA) are known to modulate sebocyte functions. Given the different roles of PA, LA and AA in skin biology, the aim of this study was to assess the specificity of sebocytes for LA and to dissect the different roles of LA and AA in regulating sebocyte functions. Using RNA sequencing, we confirmed that gene expression changes in LA-treated sebocytes were largely distinct from those induced by PA. LA, but not AA, regulated the expression of genes related to cholesterol biosynthesis, androgen and nuclear receptor signalling, keratinisation, lipid homeostasis and differentiation. In contrast, a set of mostly down-regulated genes involved in lipid metabolism and immune functions overlapped in LA- and AA-treated sebocytes. Lipidomic analyses revealed that the changes in the lipid profile of LA-treated sebocytes were more pronounced than those of AA-treated sebocytes, suggesting that LA may serve not only as a precursor of AA but also as a potent regulator of sebaceous lipogenesis, which may not only influence the gene expression profile but also have further specific biological relevance. In conclusion, we have shown that sebocytes are able to respond selectively to different lipid stimuli and that LA-induced effects can be both AA-dependent and independent. Our findings allow for the consideration of LA application in the therapy of sebaceous gland-associated inflammatory skin diseases such as acne, where lipid modulation and selective targeting of AA metabolism are potential treatment options.
... These phenolic compounds are useful for dealing with dry skin and treating skin diseases because they show antimicrobial activity against viruses, bacteria, yeast, and fungi (Daǧdelen, 2016). The oleic acid in olive oil plays a role in moisturizing the skin and reducing scars (Badiu & Rajendram, 2021;Danby et al., 2013). The content of phenolic compounds in virgin coconut oil is 59.88 µg/mL (Pranata et al., 2021) where 90% are saturated fatty acids, namely lauric acid (53%) and caprylic acid (7%), both of which are medium chains fatty acid which easily enters the skin layer to maintain skin elasticity. ...
Article
Full-text available
Vegetable oil extract moringa leaf (Moringa Oleifera Lamk.) is an herbal oil that has the potential as a medicine. The study aimed to determine the content of secondary metabolites through photochemical tests and the total phenol content of Moringa leaf extract in extra virgin olive oil and virgin coconut oil. The extraction method used is hot maceration with various doses of Moringa leaves. The best amount is used by extraction with variations in temperature and heating time. The functional groups of herbal oils were identified using an FTIR spectrophotometer. Phytochemical test results showed that the vegetable oil extract of Moringa leaf contains secondary metabolites in the form of flavonoids, phenolics, terpenoids, alkaloids, steroids, and tannins. The highest total phenol content in Moringa leaf extract in virgin olive oil at a concentration of 40%, extraction temperature 50°C with a heating time of 2 hours with a total phenol content value of 15.78% GAE (Gallic Acid Equivalent). The results of the FTIR interpretation show that herbal oils have O-H, C-H, C=O, C=C aromatic, C-O, and aliphatic C-H functional groups.
... Более того, рандомизированные контролируемые исследования показали, что, в отличие от подсолнечного масла, местное использование оливкового масла, преобладающим компонентом которого является олеиновая кислота, значительно повреждает кожный барьер и, следовательно, может способствовать развитию и усугублять существующий атопический дерматит, поэтому не рекомендуется использовать чистое оливковое масло для смягчения сухой кожи и массажа у младенцев, однако это не относится к косметическим средствам, в том числе разработанным и для детей, в состав которых входит оливковое масло. Уровень убедительности рекомендаций С (уровень достоверности доказательств -3) [46]. ...
... Deregulations on AMPs secretion by the skin contribute to the pathogenesis of several skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis, acne vulgaris, and psoriasis (Mangoni et al., 2016). Nowadays, with the emergence of bacterial resistance, nature-derived Oleic acid, with smaller quantities of other fatty acids such as linoleic acid and palmitic acid (Nasopoulou et al., 2014) Sterols, carotenoids, triterpenic alcohols, and phenolic compounds (Nasopoulou et al., 2014) Anti-inflammatory, antioxidative, and promoting dermal reconstruction (Donato-Trancoso et al., 2016) Detrimental effects on SC integrity and skin barrier function (Danby et al., 2013) ...
Article
Full-text available
Background: Every day the skin is constantly exposed to several harmful factors that induce oxidative stress. When the cells are incapable to maintain the balance between antioxidant defenses and reactive oxygen species, the skin no longer can keep its integrity and homeostasis. Chronic inflammation, premature skin aging, tissue damage, and immunosuppression are possible consequences induced by sustained exposure to environmental and endogenous reactive oxygen species. Skin immune and non-immune cells together with the microbiome are essential to efficiently trigger skin immune responses to stress. For this reason, an ever-increasing demand for novel molecules capable of modulating immune functions in the skin has risen the level of their development, particularly in the field of natural product-derived molecules. Purpose: In this review, we explore different classes of molecules that showed evidence in modulate skin immune responses, as well as their target receptors and signaling pathways. Moreover, we describe the role of polyphenols, polysaccharides, fatty acids, peptides, and probiotics as possible treatments for skin conditions, including wound healing, infection, inflammation, allergies, and premature skin aging. Methods: Literature was searched, analyzed, and collected using databases, including PubMed, Science Direct, and Google Scholar. The search terms used included "Skin", "wound healing", "natural products", "skin microbiome", "immunomodulation", "anti-inflammatory", "antioxidant", "infection", "UV radiation", "polyphenols", "polysaccharides", "fatty acids", "plant oils", "peptides", "antimicrobial peptides", "probiotics", "atopic dermatitis", "psoriasis", "auto-immunity", "dry skin", "aging", etc., and several combinations of these keywords. Results: Natural products offer different solutions as possible treatments for several skin conditions. Significant antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities were reported, followed by the ability to modulate immune functions in the skin. Several membrane-bound immune receptors in the skin recognize diverse types of natural-derived molecules, promoting different immune responses that can improve skin conditions. Conclusion: Despite the increasing progress in drug discovery, several limiting factors need future clarification. Understanding the safety, biological activities, and precise mechanisms of action is a priority as well as the characterization of the active compounds responsible for that. This review provides directions for future studies in the development of new molecules with important pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical value.
... In addition, the stratum corneum of the skin specimens treated with the optimized formulation was found disrupted, to some extent, which was attributed to the action of both olive oil and phospholipid. It was reported that olive oil can reduce stratum corneum integrity [84] while phospholipid can change and fluidize the structure of the membrane barrier leading to the enhanced permeability of active agents [85]. ...
Article
Full-text available
The objective of the current work was to fabricate, optimize and assess olive oil/phytoso-mal nanocarriers to improve quercetin skin delivery. Olive oil/phytosomal nanocarriers, prepared by a solvent evaporation/anti-solvent precipitation technique, were optimized using a Box-Behnken design, and the optimized formulation was appraised for in vitro physicochemical characteristics and stability. The optimized formulation was assessed for skin permeation and histolog-ical alterations. The optimized formulation (with an olive oil/PC ratio of 0.166, a QC/PC ratio of 1.95 and a surfactant concentration of 1.6%), and with a particle diameter of 206.7 nm, a zeta potential of −26.3 and an encapsulation efficiency of 85.3%, was selected using a Box-Behnken design. The optimized formulation showed better stability at ambient temperature when compared to refrigerating temperature (4 °C). The optimized formulation showed significantly higher skin permeation of quercetin when compared to an olive-oil/surfactant-free formulation and the control (~1.3-fold and 1.9-fold, respectively). It also showed alteration to skin barriers without remarkable toxicity aspects. Conclusively, this study demonstrated the use of olive oil/phytosomal nanocarriers as potential carriers for quercetin-a natural bioactive agent-to improve its skin delivery.
... 85 Worryingly, a number of the top 20 most used emollients identified in this study have known detrimental effects on stratum corneum integrity. 58,71,86,87 Encouragingly, more recent primary prevention studies using more sophisticated emollients have reported protective effects of intervening shortly after birth. 88 The very stark differences in the effects of emollients on skin barrier function, which influences how the skin responds to key AD triggers, provide a compelling mechanism to explain the varied outcomes of the primary prevention studies conducted so far. ...
Article
Atopic dermatitis (AD) is the most common chronic inflammatory skin disease in the general population. Skin barrier dysfunction is the central abnormality leading to AD. The cause of skin barrier dysfunction is complex and rooted in genetic mutations, interactions between the immune pathway activation and epithelial cells, altered host defense mechanisms, as well as environmental influences that cause epithelial cell activation and release of alarmins (such as thymic stromal lymphopoietin) which can activate the type 2 immune pathway, including generation of IL-4 and IL-13, which induces defects in the skin barrier and increased allergic inflammation. These inflammatory pathways are further influenced by environmental factors including the microbiome (especially Staphylococcus aureus), air pollution, stress, and other factors. As such, AD is a syndrome involving multiple phenotypes, all of which have in common skin barrier dysfunction as a key contributing factor. Understanding mechanisms leading to skin barrier dysfunction in AD is pointing to the development of new topical and systemic treatments in AD that helps keep skin borders secure and effectively treat the disease.
... Vegetable oils are free from cholesterol with high content of unsaturated fatty acids [10]. Shea butter, olive, soybean and sunflower oils have many applications in cosmetics and they are considered as active ingredients for dermal uses [11][12][13]. In Egyptian markets, shortening, coconut and palm are widely used in soft cheese manufacture [9]. ...
... Thus, olive oil use was not recommended for neonatal skin. 25 In Nepal and certain parts of Northeast India, mustard oil massage is a traditional practice for neonates; however, the literature indicates it has the potential to harm neonatal skin. 23,26,27 Summers et al 28 reported that premature neonates who received mustard oil massage more frequently experienced skin irritation and impaired skin barrier function in comparison with neonates who did not receive mustard oil massage. ...
Article
Full-text available
Objective: To identify studies that aimed to determine the effects of topical oils on neonatal skin. Data sources: Authors searched PubMed, Cochrane Central Register of Controlled Trials, and Science Direct databases. Study selection: The databases were searched for studies published through February 2022 (when the search was conducted) using the keywords "skin", "neonatal", "infant", and "oil". Fourteen randomized controlled trials that met the eligibility criteria were included in the review. Data extraction: Researchers used the PRISMA (Preferred Reporting Items for Systematic Reviews and Meta-analyses) reporting guidelines to guide this systematic review. Two authors reviewed and evaluated the articles independently. Data synthesis: The 14 studies included in this review were conducted with a total of 5,683 neonates, most of whom were preterm. The included studies used blended sunflower (n = 8), coconut (n = 5), almond (n = 2), olive (n = 1), mustard (n = 1), and vegetable (n = 1) oils. These studies investigated the effects of topical oils on the skin's barrier functions and skin integrity. Most studies used noninvasive measurement devices to evaluate the skin's barrier functions; they used a variety of scoring systems to evaluate skin integrity. Eleven of the studies concluded that the oils used in the skincare of neonates effectively improve the skin condition and barrier functions of the skin. However, three studies found equivocal, negative, or mixed findings. Conclusion: Although current evidence indicates a potential benefit, more studies with a high level of evidence on the subject are required.
... In randomised forearm-controlled mechanistic studies, 19 volunteers with and without a history of atopic dermatitis were recruited. In 19 volunteers, topical application of olive oil resulted in a significant decrease in stratum, corneum integrity, and the induction of mild erythema(Danby et al. 2013).Ozonoid sunflower oil was evaluated on a patient with bedsores who was treated with Oz.Or.Oil 30 and showed faster ulcer healing(Serio et al. 2017). Ozonized sunflower oil (OSO) was studied for its efficacy as a treatment for generalized demodicosis in dogs. ...
Chapter
Full-text available
The Asteraceae (formerly Compositae) family contains approximately 1600 genera, many of which are known for their phytochemistry and pharmacological properties. Helianthus annuus is one of the most important plants in this family, known for producing oil and playing an important role in the economies of countries. This plant’s traditional uses date back more than 3000 years. The plants are ethnomedicinally significant and contain a variety of alkaloids, terpenoids, carbohydrates, fixed oils, steroids, amino acids, and other compounds. An important point to emphasize in this book chapter is that plants are highly adaptable to various environmental conditions, making them easier to cultivate and yielding higher yields. There is a substantial literature on the plant, but as research-based knowledge grows, it must be updated, so we will attempt to update this plant’s information in terms of its traditional uses, phytochemistry, and pharmacology properties; the pharmacological properties of H. annuus were investigated using a variety of sources, including medicinal plant databases, ethnobotanical and ethnopharmacological books, and peer-reviewed papers. This book chapter delves deeply into the chemical, nutritional, and pharmacological properties of H. annuus.Keywords Helianthus annuus SunflowerAsteraceaeFatty acidsPhenolic acids
... Furthermore, the saponins of C. asiatica have demonstrated collagen-stimulating activity in multiple in-vitro and in-vivo studies, which is of clinical importance in preventing skin injury and tolerating external insults [17,18,21]. Next, sunflower oil has been found to support the skin barrier in those with an inflammatory skin condition without causing erythema [33]. Overall, these ingredients may work together to maintain the structural barrier of the skin; prevent inflammatory events; and, in turn, reduce the instances of skin concerns such as redness and pigmentation that we see in this study. ...
Article
Full-text available
External and internal stressors have been found to adversely affect skin health and overall wellness. There is growing interest in the use of anti-inflammatory and antioxidant plant-derived ingredients, such as ashwagandha, saffron, l-theanine, and tocopherol, to mitigate the impact of these stressors. In this study, we evaluate the effectiveness of oral and topical products (InnerCalm and SuperCalm, respectively) that contain naturally derived ingredients on skin redness, skin pigmentation, sleep, and mood in healthy females with Fitzpatrick skin type 1–4 and self-perceived sensitive skin. Subjects were randomized to an oral (oral group), a topical (topical group), or a combination of both the oral and topical interventions (combined group). Standardized photography-based image analysis was used to assess skin redness and pigment. Self-assessments of mood and sleep were measured with the abbreviated profile of mood states (POMS) questionnaire, and the Pittsburgh sleep-quality index (PSQI), respectively. Assessments were made at the baseline, 1-week, 4-weeks, and 8-weeks of the intervention. The average facial redness decreased in the topical group at 8-weeks (p < 0.001) and in the combined group at 4-weeks (p < 0.05) and 8-weeks (p < 0.001), relative to the baseline. The average facial pigmentation decreased in the oral (p < 0.05) and combined (p < 0.05) cohorts at 8-weeks, relative to the baseline. The oral group exhibited an improvement in sleep quality at 1-week relative to the baseline (p < 0.05) and at 8-weeks relative to the baseline (p < 0.05). Finally, the combined group demonstrated improvement in fatigue (p < 0.01) and confusion (p < 0.05) at 8-weeks relative to the baseline, though total mood disturbance increased in all 3 groups over the course of the study. Measured outcomes relating to mood may be confounded with the timing of the study, which ran during the COVID pandemic. Overall, we demonstrate the role of oral and topical herbs and of nutraceuticals for skin health and wellness. Further research will be needed to elucidate synergistic effects in oral and topical combination regimens.
... Olivno olje namreč vsebuje visok delež oleinske kisline, za katero je bilo z raziskavami na živalih ugotovljeno, da zmanjšuje strukturno urejenost lipidov roženega sloja (19) in preko N-metil-D-aspartatnih (NMDA) receptorjev v keratinocitih inducira vnetno procese (20). Raziskave, v katere so bili vključeni bolniki z AD, pa navajajo neenotne rezultate (21,22), zato so potrebne še nadaljnje raziskave, ki bodo podale bolj jasne usmeritve. Nadalje aktualna znanstvena dognanja na področju nege atopijske kože v ospredje postavljajo uporabo izdelkov s ceramidi, saj je kvali-in kvantitativna sestava v tej koži značilno spremenjena (23)(24)(25). ...
Article
Full-text available
Atopijski dermatitis je najpogostejša kronična vnetna bolezen kože, za katero so značilne spremembe v strukturi kože. Kažejo se kot pordeli, suhi in luščeči se predeli, ki jih spremlja srbenje. Ker gre za izredno kompleksno bolezen, ki predstavlja velik terapevtski izziv, sodobne terapevtske smernice poudarjajo pomen celovitega zdravljenja. Zelo pomembna je redna in pravilna nega atopijske kože z izdelki z aktivnimi sestavinami, ki po različnih mehanizmih delovanja obnavljajo njeno okrnjeno pregradno vlogo. V odvisnosti od stopnje vnetja in obsega kožnih sprememb se poslužujemo lokalne ali sistemske terapije, pri čemer velja, da prvenstveno uporabljamo zdravila za lokalno zdravljenje, dokler je to mogoče oziroma se bolnik nanje odziva. Običajno so učinkovine za nanos na kožo, ki so namenjene aktivni negi in/ali zdravljenju, vgrajene v klasične formulacije, kot so mazila, kreme, dermalne raztopine in emulzije. V zadnjih letih pa se intenzivno razvijajo predvsem inovativni lipidni dostavni sistemi, kot so liotropni tekoči kristali, mikro- in nanoemulzije, vezikularni sistemi in lipidni nanodelci. V prispevku so tako sistematično zbrane in predstavljene aktivne sestavine sodobnih kozmetičnih izdelkov za nego atopijske kože ter zdravilne učinkovine in farmacevtske oblike, registrirane v Sloveniji za zdravljenje atopijskega dermatitisa. Hkrati prikazujemo atraktivne znanstvene raziskave, patentne objave in novosti na področju inovativnih lipidnih dostavnih sistemov s temi učinkovinami, ki kažejo na edinstvene prednosti teh formulacij, ki omogočajo bolniku prijaznejše zdravljenje in s tem izboljšani terapevtski izid.
... In addition, use of olive oil should be avoided. Studies have suggested that olive oil may cause skin inflammation and irritation without any significant treatment benefit [63]. ...
Article
Full-text available
Atopic dermatitis (AD) is the most common inflammatory skin disease seen in children. It is a heterogeneous disorder, with a variety of associated manifestations and symptoms. Cases may range from mild to severe. As a result, a spectrum of prescription and nonprescription therapies may be utilized when managing this condition. This article provides an extensive overview of these therapies, with equal consideration provided to current, emerging, and alternative options used in the pediatric population.
... Enhances skin barrier function, and prevents invasive bacterial infections, Retain moisture in skin, Protect from solar UV radiation, Treatment in mild to moderate severe psoriasis and skin scaling, Protect from anti-wrinkling and anti-ageing, [46,47,48,49] Hair care ...
Article
Full-text available
In the last few years, more and more studies on the biological properties of essential oils (EOs) especially antimicrobial and antioxidant properties in vitro and food model have been published in all parts of the world. Herbal oils have been utilized for therapeutic and cosmetic purposes for over 2,500 years, according to historical records. It is inherited knowledge that has been passed down from generation to generation that provides a mostly untapped source for cosmetic formulation development. Recently, consumers have developed an everincreasing interest in natural products as alternatives for artificial additives or pharmacologically relevant agents. Among them, EOs have gained great popularity in the food, cosmetic as well as pharmaceutical industries. Despite the reportedly strong antimicrobial activity of EOs against food-borne pathogens and spoilage microorganisms, their practical application as preservatives is currently limited owing to the undesirable flavor changes they cause in food products. As a result, the current survey was done to explore cosmetic potential herbal on the topical application of herbal oil for skincare, hair care, foot care, eye care, nail care, lip care, and dental care, data was collected. The collected data was double-checked against authentic Siddha literatures, and the results are evaluated for chemical compositions and other factors and relevant pharmacological activities. Nonetheless, more studies are necessary to the applicability of various EOs on other food models with their utility as therapeutic or cosmetic agent.
Article
Objective: Diaper dermatitis, commonly known as diaper rash, is a frequent skin concern for families with infants. This study explores the knowledge levels of parents with children aged 0-36 months regarding diaper rash and the factors influencing its development. Methods: The study involved 300 parents who participated in a survey designed to measure their knowledge and attitudes about diaper rash. The survey also inquired about their babies' diaper care routines and preferred sources of information on diaper rash. Results: A positive correlation was found between the education levels of the parents and knowledge of diaper rash. Parents with university degrees had a higher median awareness score [9 (3-12)] compared to parents with high school [8 (4-12)] and primary school diplomas [7 (3-12)] (p=0.009 and p
Article
The term natural oil refers to a fixed (non‐volatile) oil of animal or plant origin. These types of oils – in contrast to essential (volatile) oils, which are obtained by steam distillation methods of plant matter – are typically obtained from plant seeds and nuts by a mechanical pressing technique or solvent extraction. The natural movement in cosmetics of the 21st century has led to renewed interest in formulating skin care products with botanical ingredients. In this article, we discuss the benefits and caveats of natural oil treatments as moisturizing agents (as occlusives and emollients) as well as their utility in wound healing and treatment of skin diseases. We also address the paradoxical behaviour of natural oils in relation to barrier function and highlight the current state of our knowledge with respect to the use of natural oils in neonatal skin care. Finally, we provide a comparison of natural oils to conventional petroleum‐based oils.
Article
Full-text available
Acne is a long-standing skin condition characterized by plugged hair follicles due to the accumulation of dead skin cells, sebum, and Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes) bacteria, causing inflammation, and the formation of pimples or lesions. Acne was recognized in the ancient times by the ancient Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans. Since ancient times, folk medicine from different cultures have comprised herbal and natural products for the treatment of acne. Current acne medications include antibiotics, keratolytics, corticosteroids, in addition to hormonal therapy for women. However, these conventional drugs can cause some serious side effects. And therefore, seeking new safe treatment options from natural sources is essential. Plants can be a potential source of medicinal phytochemicals which can be pharmacologically active as antibacterial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, keratolytic and sebum-reducing. Organic acids, obtained from natural sources, are commonly used as keratolytics in dermatology and cosmetology. Most of the promising phytochemicals in acne treatment belong to terpenes, terpenoids, flavonoids, alkaloids, phenolic compounds, saponins, tannins, and essential oils. These can be extracted from leaves, bark, roots, rhizomes, seeds, and fruits of plants and may be incorporated in different dosage forms to facilitate their penetration through the skin. Additionally, medicinal compounds from marine sources can also contribute to acne treatment. This review will discuss the pathogenesis, types and consequences of acne, side effects of conventional treatment, current possible treatment options from natural sources obtained from research and folk medicine and possible applied dosage forms.
Article
Full-text available
Plants and algae play a crucial role in the earth's ecosystems. Through photosynthesis they convert light energy into chemical energy, capture CO2 and produce oxygen and energy-rich organic compounds. Photosynthetic organisms are primary producers and synthesize the essential omega 3 and omega 6 fatty acids. They have also unique and highly diverse complex lipids, such as glycolipids, phospholipids, triglycerides, sphingolipids and phytosterols, with nutritional and health benefits. Plant and algal lipids are useful in food, feed, nutraceutical, cosmeceutical and pharmaceutical industries but also for green chemistry and bioenergy. The analysis of plant and algal lipidomes represents a significant challenge due to the intricate and diverse nature of their composition, as well as their plasticity under changing environmental conditions. Optimization of analytical tools is crucial for an in-depth exploration of the lipidome of plants and algae. This review highlights how lipidomics analytical tools can be used to establish a complete mapping of plant and algal lipidomes. Acquiring this knowledge will pave the way for the use of plants and algae as sources of tailored lipids for both industrial and environmental applications. This aligns with the main challenges for society, upholding the natural resources of our planet and respecting their limits.
Article
Objective Para rubber seed oil was indicated for skin dullness and hair loss in regard to its cutaneous beneficial fatty acids. Nonetheless, the oil's potency against photoaging remains unexplored. We proposed that para rubber seed oil could alleviate photoaging. Methods Para rubber seed oil was investigated in cocultures of human HaCaT cells and dermal fibroblasts (HDF). Photoaging protectant efficiency was monitored in terms of IL‐6 and IL‐8 as well as MMP‐1 (collagenase) and MMP‐9 (gelatinase) in a comparison with its fatty acid components. Results Para rubber seed oil standardized in fatty acids was indicated as the promising plant oil for photoaging treatment. Its photoprotection mechanism was demonstrated in the coculture system of keratinocyte and fibroblast cells for the first time. Where the oil and its fatty acid constituents (100 μg/mL) were indicated to be safe and efficiently protect the cocultures against UV damage. The oil significantly ( p < 0.001) suppressed UV‐induced IL‐6, IL‐8, MMP‐1 and MMP‐9 secretions. The revealed photoprotection proficiency was abided by its fatty acids, particularly the unsaturated C18 ones. Conclusion The oil was indicated on its potential to maintain skin homeostasis and would alleviate senescence ageing in regard to its photoprotection abilities exhibited. Para rubber seed oil is warranted as a new generation of photoaging protectant agent with the profiled safety and efficacy demonstrated in the epidermal coculture system. The findings encourage the development of innovative anti‐ageing products containing the oil, which is categorizable as a sustainable specialty material for photoaging treatment.
Article
Background Multiple intrinsic and extrinsic factors influence aging and lead to visible changes in the skin, including dryness, fine lines and wrinkles, loss of elasticity, surface roughness, uneven pigmentation, and loss of luminosity. Although it is well established that a single combination of topicals can address multiple signs of skin aging, it is common for patients’ at-home skin treatment routines to include multiple different topicals with different active ingredients. The layering of active ingredients can cause skin irritation, and lead to noncompliance with a consistent routine. Further, multiple active ingredients may exacerbate irritation from in-office aesthetic treatments. Objectives To assess the long-term efficacy, safety, tolerability, and patient adherence to a Stackable Treatment topical routine consisting of 4 complementary topical formulations. Methods This study examined a daily topical routine (Stackable Treatment routine) consisting of 4 topical formulas with different active ingredients, and evaluated the routine's safety, tolerability, and efficacy in a composite of in-office treatment patients who applied the routine for a minimum of 1 year. Results Of the 14 patients, 0 experienced adverse reactions. Improvements to multiple skin parameters were observed, including improvements to skin hydration, surface texture, pigmentation, vasculature, and the appearance of scars. The majority of patients continue to use the Stackable Treatment routine after the study's conclusion. Conclusions The combination of low incidence of irritation, high patient satisfaction, and overall efficacy of the routine indicates the Stackable Treatment routine may be well suited as a foundational skin care regimen that can complement in-office aesthetic treatments. Level of Evidence: 4
Article
Full-text available
Shaving cream is a semi-solid emulsion that is applied to the skin. Shaving cream is not a cosmetic hair product, but provides a foaming agent to gently remove unwanted hair. Commercially available shaving creams are full of synthetic chemicals, which are very harmful to the skin if used regularly or daily. As we know, the skin on the face is very delicate and can be scratched when shaving. This led us to prepare shaving cream with natural herbs. Commercial preparations contain sodium hydroxide, potassium permanganate, glycerin and sodium lauryl sulfate, but all synthetic substances have been replaced by natural plant products such as anti-inflammatory aloe vera gel, natural surfactants and concentrated soap extract and coconut oil. Primer, Antifungal and Antiseptic Neem Oil, Antibacterial Olive Oil, Aromatic Lemon Oil. We prepared four structures, one synthetic, the second recycled, the third natural and the fourth natural. The pH is the same as your skin's. Easy to apply and remove. It spreads easily on the skin. All four shaving cream formulations showed the same results.
Chapter
The pathogenesis of atopic dermatitis (AD) is complex and multifactorial. However, recent advancements in the genetics and pathophysiology of AD suggest that epidermal barrier dysfunction is paramount in the development and progression of the condition (Boguniewicz M, Leung DYM, Immunol Rev 242(1):233–246, 2011). In addition to standard therapy for AD, there are a plethora of nonprescription treatment modalities which may be employed. Over-the-counter treatments for atopic dermatitis can come in the form of topical corticosteroids, moisturizers/emollients, and oral antihistamines. Though these treatments are beneficial, prescription treatments may be quicker acting and more efficacious in patients with moderate to severe disease or during flares. OTC agents are best used for maintenance between flares and to prevent progression of mild disease. Alternative and complementary treatments lack strong efficacy evidence. However, wet wraps, bleach baths, and other treatments appear to be promising when used in conjunction with conventional treatments. With the financial burden of atopic dermatitis ranging from 364 million to 3.8 billion dollars each year in the United States, we suspect this topic will gain further research attention.
Article
Full-text available
The skin serves as the primary barrier protecting the body from external insults, and its integrity is crucial for overall health. Formulation excipients, including emulsifiers, thickeners, and preservatives, commonly used in skincare products, can significantly influence skin barrier function and permeability. This review evaluates the impact of these Excipients on skin barrier function using biophysical measurements such as Trans-epidermal Water Loss (TEWL), skin hydration, and trans-epidermal water content. Furthermore, it discusses the potential implications of excipient-induced alterations in skin barrier function for skin health and tolerability.
Article
Full-text available
The skin serves as the primary barrier protecting the body from external insults, and its integrity is crucial for overall health. Formulation excipients, including emulsifiers, thickeners, and preservatives, commonly used in skincare products, can significantly influence skin barrier function and permeability. This review evaluates the impact of these Excipients on skin barrier function using biophysical measurements such as Trans-epidermal Water Loss (TEWL), skin hydration, and trans-epidermal water content. Furthermore, it discusses the potential implications of excipient-induced alterations in skin barrier function for skin health and tolerability.
Chapter
This chapter provides an overview of neonatal skin function and intrauterine skin development. The impact on the skin of gestational age at birth is discussed along with cutaneous complications arising from prematurity and neonatal medical procedures. Skin care practices and considerations for neonates are summarised and physiological appearances and changes are described. On overview of disordered skin in neonates is provided, including pustular eruptions, atrophic skin lesions, disorders of neonatal fat, colloidion baby, blueberry muffin baby, purpura fulminans and common neonatal dermatosis. The clinical manifestions in a neonate of transplacental transfer of maternal autoantibodies is evaluated, including in conditions such as pemphigus vulgaris, pemphigus foliaceus, herpes gestationis, lupus erythematosus and maternal malignancy. Finally, on overview of infective skin pathologies and clinical manifestations in neonates is provided including viral, bacterial and fungal pathogens.
Chapter
Rashes in the first 4 weeks of life are common and can be alarming for both parents and medical staff. Many of these are entirely innocent and resolve spontaneously and reassurance of the parents is all that is required. It is important to be aware of such ‘benign’ rashes (as well as the appearance of preterm and post‐term skin) when assessing genuine pathology in the neonate. Pathological dermatoses may arise by a number of different mechanisms. Iatrogenic causes (medical procedures) can cause rashes/lesions both in utero and in the neonatal period. Transplacental transfer of antibodies, infection or malignant cells from mother to child is another mechanism for causing neonatal rashes. Infection can also be passed on from attendant medical staff. Finally, primary dermatoses may present early in the neonatal period, especially genodermatoses such as collodion baby and epidermolysis bullosa.
Article
From dry skin in the newborn to atopic eczema in the infant and child, health professionals in primary care play a crucial role in supporting families in the care of skin, and the treatment and management of skin conditions in children. The evidence base can be conflicting and guidance changes frequently. With so much information to share with new parents, baby skincare is often seen as a lower priority when imparting health promotion advice than other areas such as safe sleep or infant feeding. It has been argued that, with the rising prevalence of atopic eczema in the UK population, advice to parents about what to be concerned about and when to seek medical advice is imperative. This article explores the evidence on general skincare from the newborn period to the treatment and management of common skin conditions, including atopic eczema and seborrheic dermatitis.
Article
Full-text available
Background: Dermatologic diseases are one of the most frequent health conditions. The impact on the quality of life of patients is evident and the negative effects on health can range from psychological and physical incapacity to even death. Because of the serious impact that dermatologic diseases can have on one's health, prevention and treatment of these conditions should be urgently included in global health strategies. Advancing scientific knowledge about traditional techniques has been gaining acknowledgement due to the contributions they can provide to global health. Objective: This study aims to analyse the current evidence on the effectiveness of traditional Chinese phytopharmacology (herbal medicine) on dermatologic conditions and to inform potential applications within western healthcare settings. Methodology: A systematic literature search was conducted in PubMed, Cochrane, Science Direct and Scielo databases to identify randomized clinical trials on Chinese herbal medicine for dermatologic conditions. Studies with low or moderate quality were excluded. Results: Our literature search yielded 151 studies, 135 after the removal of duplicates. After title and abstract screening, 38 studies were selected for retrieval. Full-text and quality assessment was performed on 33 studies, and 18 studies were included in the final analysis. Conclusions: Evidence suggests that Chinese phytopharmacology can be used as a complementary treatment for some dermatologic conditions. Major benefits seem to exist due to the presence of components that possess anti-fungal, anti-bacterial, anti-viral, and anti-inflammatory action, as well as immunomodulatory effects. More studies should be conducted to confirm the complementary benefits of Chinese phytopharmacology for dermatologic conditions. Registration: The protocol has been registered with the International Prospective Registry for Systematic Reviews (PROSPERO CRD42022308304).
Article
Bethany Boddy explores the evidence base behind common childhood skin conditions and the role of health professionals in promoting health and wellbeing
Article
Full-text available
Coconut oil, a traditional moisturizer used for centuries by people in the tropics, does not have any clinical studies documenting its effectivity and safety. This study aims to determine effectivity and safety of coconut oil compared to mineral oil as moisturizer for mild to moderate xerosis. A review board-approved randomized double-blind controlled trial was conducted in 34 patients after negative patch-testing. Patients applied either coconut or mineral oil twice a day for two weeks. Quantitative outcomes for effectivity, measured at baseline and each weekly visit, were skin hydration (Corneometer CM825®) and skin lipids (Sebumeter SM810®); for safety, transepidermal water loss [TEWL](Tewameter TM210®) and skin surface pH (Skin pH meter PH900®). Patients and investigator evaluated symptoms of dryness, scaling, roughness, and pruritus using visual analogue scales (VAS) and grading of xerosis. Both groups showed significant improvement in skin hydration and increased skin surface lipid levels. TEWL and Skin pH were not affected. Objective instrumental determinations showed no significant difference between both groups. Patient and investigator subjective grading of xerosis and VAS showed general trend toward better, though not statistically evident, with coconut over mineral oil. Coconut oil is as effective and safe as mineral oil as a moisturizer.
Article
Full-text available
Chronic inflammation is a critical factor in the pathogenesis of many inflammatory disease states including cardiovascular disease, cancer, diabetes, degenerative joint diseases and neurodegenerative diseases. Chronic inflammatory states are poorly understood, however it is known that dietary habits can evoke or attenuate inflammatory responses. Popular methods to deal with inflammation and its associated symptoms involve the use of non steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, however the use of these drugs are associated with severe side effects. Therefore, investigations concerned with natural methods of inflammatory control are warranted. A traditional Mediterranean diet has been shown to confer some protection against the pathology of chronic diseases through the attenuation of pro-inflammatory mediators and this has been partially attributed to the high intake of virgin olive oil accompanying this dietary regime. Virgin olive oil contains numerous phenolic compounds that exert potent anti-inflammatory actions. Of interest to this paper is the recently discovered phenolic compound oleocanthal. Oleocanthal is contained in virgin olive oil and possesses similar anti-inflammatory properties to ibuprofen. This pharmacological similarity has provoked interest in oleocanthal and the few studies conducted thus far have verified its anti-inflammatory and potential therapeutic actions. A review of the health benefits of the Mediterranean diet and anti-inflammatory properties of virgin olive oil is presented with the additional emphasis on the pharmacological and anti-inflammatory properties of the phenolic compound oleocanthal.
Article
Full-text available
Nutritional supplementation with omega-6 essential fatty acids (omega-6 EFAs) is of potential interest in the treatment of atopic dermatitis. EFAs play a vital role in skin structure and physiology. EFA deficiency replicates the symptoms of atopic dermatitis, and patients with atopic dermatitis have been reported to have imbalances in EFA levels. Although direct proof is lacking, it has been hypothesized that patients with atopic dermatitis have impaired activity of the delta-6 desaturase enzyme, affecting metabolism of linoleic acid to gamma-linolenic acid (GLA). However, to date, studies of EFA supplementation in atopic dermatitis, most commonly using evening primrose oil, have produced conflicting results. Borage oil is of interest because it contains two to three times more GLA than evening primrose oil. This review identified 12 clinical trials of oral or topical borage oil for treatment of atopic dermatitis and one preventive trial. All studies were controlled and most were randomized and double-blind, but many were small and had other methodological limitations. The results of studies of borage oil for the treatment of atopic dermatitis were highly variable, with the effect reported to be significant in five studies, insignificant in five studies, and mixed in two studies. Borage oil given to at-risk neonates did not prevent development of atopic dermatitis. However, the majority of studies showed at least a small degree of efficacy or were not able to exclude the possibility that the oil produces a small benefit. Overall, the data suggest that nutritional supplementation with borage oil is unlikely to have a major clinical effect but may be useful in some individual patients with less severe atopic dermatitis who are seeking an alternative treatment. Which patients are likely to respond cannot yet be identified. Borage oil is well tolerated in the short term but no long-term tolerability data are available.
Article
Full-text available
Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a multifactorial, heterogenous disease that arises as a result of the interaction between both environmental and genetic factors. Changes in at least three groups of genes encoding structural proteins, epidermal proteases, and protease inhibitors predispose to a defective epidermal barrier and increase the risk of developing AD. Loss-of-function mutations found within the FLG gene encoding the structural protein, filaggrin, represent the most significant genetic factor predisposing to AD identified to date. Enhanced protease activity and decreased synthesis of the lipid lamellae lead to exacerbated breakdown of the epidermal barrier. Environmental factors, including the use of soap and detergents, exacerbate epidermal barrier breakdown, attributed to the elevation of stratum corneum pH. A sustained increase in pH enhances the activity of degradatory proteases and decreases the activity of the lipid synthesis enzymes. The strong association between both genetic barrier defects and environmental insults to the barrier with AD suggests that epidermal barrier dysfunction is a primary event in the development of this disease. Our understanding of gene-environment interactions should lead to a better use of some topical products, avoidance of others, and the increased use and development of products that can repair the skin barrier.
Article
Full-text available
Atopic dermatitis (AD) skin is dry and readily colonized by Staphylococcus aureus (SA). Coconut and olive oils are traditionally used to moisturize and treat skin infections. To compare virgin coconut oil (VCO) and virgin olive oil (VOO) in moisturizing dryness and removing SA from colonized AD skin. This was a double-blind controlled trial in two outpatient dermatology clinics with adult AD patients who were diagnosed by history, pattern, evolution, and skin lesions and who were randomized to apply VCO or VOO twice daily at two noninfected sites. SA cultures, photography, and objective-SCORAD severity index (O-SSI) scoring were done at baseline and after 4 weeks. Twenty-six subjects each received VCO or VOO. Of those on VCO, 20 were positive for SA colonies at baseline versus 12 on VOO. Post intervention, only 1 (5%) VCO subject remained positive versus 6 (50%) of those on VOO. Relative risk for VCO was 0.10, significantly superior to that for VOO (10:1, p = .0028; 95% CI, 0.01-0.73); thus, the number needed to treat was 2.2. For the O-SSI, the difference was not significant at baseline (p = .15) but was significantly different post treatment (p = .004); this was reduced for both oils (p < .005) but was greater with VCO. VCO and monolaurin's O-SSI reduction and in vitro broad-spectrum activity against SA (given clinical validity here), fungi, and viruses may be useful in the proactive treatment of AD colonization.
Article
Full-text available
Members of the superfamily of nuclear hormone receptors which are obligate heterodimeric partners of the retinoid X receptor may be important in epidermal development. Here, we examined the effects of activators of the receptors for vitamin D3 and retinoids, and of the peroxisome proliferator activated receptors (PPARs) and the farnesoid X-activated receptor (FXR), on the development of the fetal epidermal barrier in vitro. Skin explants from gestational day 17 rats (term is 22 d) are unstratified and lack a stratum corneum (SC). After incubation in hormone-free media for 3-4 d, a multilayered SC replete with mature lamellar membranes in the interstices and a functionally competent barrier appear. 9-cis or all-trans retinoic acid, 1,25 dihydroxyvitamin D3, or the PPARgamma ligands prostaglandin J2 or troglitazone did not affect the development of barrier function or epidermal morphology. In contrast, activators of the PPARalpha, oleic acid, linoleic acid, and clofibrate, accelerated epidermal development, resulting in mature lamellar membranes, a multilayered SC, and a competent barrier after 2 d of incubation. The FXR activators, all-trans farnesol and juvenile hormone III, also accelerated epidermal barrier development. Activities of beta-glucocerebrosidase and steroid sulfatase, enzymes previously linked to barrier maturation, also increased after treatment with PPARalpha and FXR activators. In contrast, isoprenoids, such as nerolidol, cis-farnesol, or geranylgeraniol, or metabolites in the cholesterol pathway, such as mevalonate, squalene, or 25-hydroxycholesterol, did not alter barrier development. Finally, additive effects were observed in explants incubated with clofibrate and farnesol together in suboptimal concentrations which alone did not affect barrier development. These data indicate a putative physiologic role for PPARalpha and FXR in epidermal barrier development.
Article
Full-text available
Unlabelled: Topical therapy to enhance skin barrier function may be a simple, low-cost, effective strategy to improve outcome of preterm infants with a developmentally compromised epidermal barrier, as lipid constituents of topical products may act as a mechanical barrier and augment synthesis of barrier lipids. Natural oils are applied topically as part of a traditional oil massage to neonates in many developing countries. We sought to identify inexpensive, safe, vegetable oils available in developing countries that improved epidermal barrier function. The impact of oils on mouse epidermal barrier function (rate of transepidermal water loss over time following acute barrier disruption by tape-stripping) and ultrastructure was determined. A single application of sunflower seed oil significantly accelerated skin barrier recovery within 1 h; the effect was sustained 5 h after application. In contrast, the other vegetable oils tested (mustard, olive and soybean oils) all significantly delayed recovery of barrier function compared with control- or Aquaphor-treated skin. Twice-daily applications of mustard oil for 7 d resulted in sustained delay of barrier recovery. Moreover, adverse ultrastructural changes were seen under transmission electron microscopy in keratin intermediate filament, mitochondrial, nuclear, and nuclear envelope structure following a single application of mustard oil. Conclusion: Our data suggest that topical application of linoleate-enriched oil such as sunflower seed oil might enhance skin barrier function and improve outcome in neonates with compromised barrier function. Mustard oil, used routinely in newborn care throughout South Asia, has toxic effects on the epidermal barrier that warrant further investigation.
Article
Full-text available
Xerosis is a common skin condition (1) characterized by dry, rough, scaly, and itchy skin, (2) associated with a defect in skin barrier function, and (3) treated with moisturizers. People in the tropics have effectively used coconut oil as a traditional moisturizer for centuries. Recently, the oil also has been shown to have skin antiseptic effects. A moisturizer with antiseptic effects has value, but there are no clinical studies to document the efficacy and safety of coconut oil as a skin moisturizer. This study aimed to determine the effectivity and safety of virgin coconut oil compared with mineral oil as a therapeutic moisturizer for mild to moderate xerosis. A randomized double-blind controlled clinical trial was conducted on mild to moderate xerosis in 34 patients with negative patch-test reactions to the test products. These patients were randomized to apply either coconut oil or mineral oil on the legs twice a day for 2 weeks. Quantitative outcome parameters for effectivity were measured at baseline and on each visit with a Corneometer CM825 to measure skin hydration and a Sebumeter SM 810 to measure skin lipids. For safety, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was measured with a Tewameter TM210, and skin surface hydrogen ion concentration (pH) was measured with a Skin pH Meter PH900. Patients and the investigator separately evaluated, at baseline and at each weekly visit, skin symptoms of dryness, scaling, roughness, and pruritus by using a visual analogue scale and grading of xerosis. Coconut oil and mineral oil have comparable effects. Both oils showed effectivity through significant improvement in skin hydration and increase in skin surface lipid levels. Safety was demonstrated through no significant difference in TEWL and skin pH. Subjective grading of xerosis by the investigators and visual analogue scales used by the patients showed a general trend toward better (though not statistically evident) improvement with coconut oil than with mineral oil. Safety for both was further demonstrated by negative patch-test results prior to the study and by the absence of adverse reactions during the study. Coconut oil is as effective and safe as mineral oil when used as a moisturizer.
Article
Full-text available
Infections and complications of prematurity are main causes of neonatal mortality. Very low birthweight premature infants have compromised skin barrier function, and are at especially high risk for serious infections and mortality. Our aim was to ascertain whether topical application of emollients to enhance skin barrier function would prevent nosocomial infections in this population. We randomly assigned infants born before week 33 of gestation after admission to Dhaka Shishu Hospital, Bangladesh, to daily massage with sunflower seed oil (n=159) or Aquaphor (petrolatum, mineral oil, mineral wax, lanolin alcohol; n=157). We then compared incidence of nosocomial infections among infants in these two groups with an untreated control group (n=181) by an intention-to-treat analysis. 20 patients in the control group, and 22 in each of the treatment groups left the hospital early, but were included in the final analysis. Overall, infants treated with sunflower seed oil were 41% less likely to develop nosocomial infections than controls (adjusted incidence rate ratio [IRR] 0.59, 95% CI 0.37-0.96, p=0.032). Aquaphor did not significantly reduce the risk of infection (0.60, 0.35-1.03, p=0.065). No adverse events were seen. Our findings confirm that skin application of sunflower seed oil provides protection against nosocomial infections in preterm very low birthweight infants. The low cost, availability, simplicity, and effect of treatment make it an important intervention for very low birthweight infants admitted to hospital in developing countries.
Article
Prolonged exposure of human epidermis to excess endogenous or exogenous glucocorticoids can result in well-recognized cutaneous abnormalities. Here, we determined whether short-term glucocorticoid treatment would also display adverse effects, specifically on two key epidermal functions, permeability barrier homeostasis and stratum corneum integrity and cohesion, and the basis for such changes. In humans 3 d of treatment with a potent, commonly employed topical glucocorticoid (clobetasol), applied topically, produced a deterioration in barrier homeostasis, characterized by delayed barrier recovery and abnormal stratum corneum integrity (rate of barrier disruption with tape strippings) and stratum corneum cohesion (mug protein removed per stripping). Short-term systemic and topical glucocorticoid produced similar functional defects in mice, where the basis for these abnormalities was explored further. Both the production and secretion of lamellar bodies were profoundly decreased in topical glucocorticoid-treated mice resulting in decreased extracellular lamellar bilayers. These structural changes, in turn, were attributable to a profound global inhibition of lipid synthesis, demonstrated both in epidermis and in cultured human keratinocytes. The basis for the abnormality in stratum corneum integrity and cohesion was a diminution in the density of corneodesmosomes in the lower stratum corneum. We next performed topical replacement studies to determine whether lipid deficiency accounts for the glucocorticoid-induced functional abnormalities. The abnormalities in both permeability barrier homeostasis and stratum corneum integrity were corrected by topical applications of an equimolar distribution of free fatty acids, cholesterol, and ceramides, indicating that glucocorticoid-induced inhibition of epidermal lipid synthesis accounts for the derangements in both cutaneous barrier function and stratum corneum integrity/cohesion. These studies indicate that even short-term exposure to potent glucocorticosteroids can exert profound negative effects on cutaneous structure and function. Finally, topical replenishment with epidermal physiologic lipids could represent a potential method to reduce the adverse cutaneous effects of both topical glucocorticoid treatment and Cushing's syndrome.
Article
This report describes 2 female patients having contact dermatitis due to mustard khal - the residue of mustard seeds after the oil has been extracted out. The dermatitis was caused by mixing mustard khal with the cattle feed and was occurring on the hands and forearms, though the face, ear-lobules and neck were also involved because of the practice of applying mustard oil on the hair. Patch tests were positive with the mustard khal and its fractionation products in both the patients and with mustard oil in one patient.
Article
Olive oil is commonly recommended by health professionals to new parents for use in the prevention and treatment of the term baby's dry skin, and for baby massage. There is no evidence to support this practice. The use of olive oil may be harmful to skin, affecting skin barrier function. This effect may be a contributory factor in the prevalence of childhood conditions such as atopic eczema. This paper discusses a national online audit of UK maternity hospitals (n = 67) and neonatal units (n = 33) performed between November 2010 and January 2011. Our findings confirm that oil use on babies' skin is common practice. As the direct cost to the NHS for treatment of atopic eczema is high, it is imperative that further research in this area is performed, preferably in the form of a randomized controlled trial. Health professionals will then be in a position to provide accurate information to parents with regard to oil in baby skin care regimens.
Article
This comprehensive account of the genetic and environmental factors that cause atopic dermatitis reconciles two hypotheses concerning the origin of the disease - IgE-mediated sensitization, or an intrinsic defect in epithelial cells that causes dysfunction of the skin barrier - with evidence that both mechanisms contribute. Clinical implications are discussed.
Article
Background: Over the last decade, health professionals have debated the relative merits and potential harms of various neonatal bathing practices. Two schools of thought exist - those that support the use of water alone, and those who believe that bathing products offer some benefit. However, there is a dearth of empirical evidence on which to inform practice or advise new parents. Objective: The purposes of this study were two-fold: first, to gain insight into current practices and beliefs related to newborn bathing, and secondly, to assess the feasibility of conducting a randomised controlled trial (RCT) of wash products versus water alone. Design: A qualitative study was conducted using in-depth interviews. The authors purposively sampled and interviewed 20 midwives, ten health visitors and 26 women. For some of the latter group (n=22), data were collected longitudinally. Data were analysed thematically. Setting: A large teaching hospital in the north west of England. Results: The overarching theme was 'informed uncertainty'. Three sub-themes were also identified, 'mirage of evidence', 'toeing the party line' and 'influential marketing'. Conclusion: There is confusion around the evidence base of newborn bathing practices. As a consequence, women and health professionals draw on tradition, experience and opinion to inform practice. There was some nervousness around industry-funded trials, nevertheless, there was general agreement that a robust, investigator-led RCT of a baby wash product versus water alone was required.
Article
The skin barrier function can be evaluated by measuring the rate of transepidermal water loss (TEWL). This technique can also be used to elucidate the effect of enhancers on the skin barrier. In this in vivo study the effect of oleic acid in propylene glycol (OA/PG) has been investigated on 10 human volunteers of both sexes (age: 20–40 years). A 3-h and a 24-h occlusion of 0.16 M OA/PG resulted in a 2-fold increase in TEWL, whereas PG alone only increased TEWL with a ratio of 1.1. An optimal enhancement of TEWL has thus been achieved from the synergistic working of OA and PG. Furthermore, the enhancing effect lasted long: for a 3-h and a 24-h application, the TEWL increase could be monitored up to 25 and 72 h, respectively. The results indicate that OA remains inside the stratum corneum and is able to maintain its effect for a relatively long, yet limited, period of time. Another in vivo technique, attenuated total reflectance-Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR) has been employed to follow the effect at a molecular scale. Following the absorbances at 1710 and 1740 cm−1, representing the carboxyl group of the free acid and of the ester, respectively, it was observed that the absorbance ratio of both wavenumbers is levelled off to that of an untreated condition already 3 h after the removal of OA/PG application system. These results may indicate either the migration of OA into lower cell layers or lateral spreading within the stratum corneum. Comparing the enhancement ratios from TEWL measurements of the OA/PG applied sites to the untreated sites with the ratio of absorbance at 1710 and 1740 cm−1 in time, there is a congruency with the disappearance of free acid in the uppermost layers of SC and the stabilization of the increased TEWL value (`steady-state' water diffusion). This suggests that the barrier perturbation by OA `outlives' its presence in the superficial cell layers in the free acidic form.
Article
Functional and structural skin adaptation is a dynamic process which starts immediately after birth in humans and in mammalian skin in general. This adjustment to the extrauterine dry environment is accomplished in the first year of postnatal life of humans. To assess the dynamic changes in vivo after birth in the molecular composition and skin physiology parameters compared with older children and adults. The molecular composition of the stratum corneum (SC) and the water profile were investigated noninvasively by in vivo Raman confocal microscopy as a function of depth. Functional parameters including transepidermal water loss (characterizing epidermal permeability barrier), capacitance (as an indirect parameter for SC hydration) and skin surface pH were assessed noninvasively. The measurements were performed in 108 subjects divided into six age groups: full-term newborns (1-15 days), babies aged 5-6 weeks, babies aged 6±1 months, children aged 1-2 years, children aged 4-5 years and adults aged 20-35 years. We showed that skin acidification is still under development during the first weeks of life. While the basal epidermal barrier is competent immediately after birth, the SC is less hydrated in the first 2 weeks of postnatal life. Similar continuous decreasing water content towards the surface for all age groups was observed, whereas this gradient was lower for the newborns. Dynamic changes in the amounts of the natural moisturizing factor constituents were revealed in the period of infancy. We demonstrated the relation of formation of an acidic pH as well as underlying mechanisms in the induction of a fully hydrated SC over the first weeks of human life as a dynamic functional adaptation.
Article
The emollient aqueous cream BP is frequently used for the treatment of atopic dermatitis (AD), yet it is associated with a high rate of adverse cutaneous reactions. It contains the harsh anionic surfactant sodium lauryl sulphate, a known negative environmental factor associated with the exacerbation of AD. To investigate the effect of aqueous cream BP on stratum corneum (SC) integrity and skin barrier function in volunteers with a predisposition to a defective skin barrier. Thirteen volunteers with a previous history of AD (no symptoms for 6 months) applied aqueous cream BP twice daily to the volar side of one forearm for 4 weeks. The other forearm was left untreated as a control. Permeability barrier function and SC integrity were determined before and after treatment by measuring transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in conjunction with tape-stripping. For comparison, 13 volunteers with current AD were recruited for assessment, without treatment, of SC integrity and skin barrier function at unaffected sites. Topical application of aqueous cream BP resulted in significant elevation of baseline TEWL and a concomitant decrease in SC integrity. Measurements made after no treatment in volunteers with current AD, at unaffected sites, suggest that application of aqueous cream BP negatively affects the skin barrier towards the damaged state associated with onset of flares of the disease. Aqueous cream BP used as a leave-on emollient caused severe damage to the skin barrier in volunteers with a previous history of AD. Aqueous cream BP should not be used as a leave-on emollient in patients with AD.
Article
Infant massage was first introduced in China in 2nd century BC. Massaging the newborn has been a tradition in India and other Asian countries since time immemorial. Various oil-based preparations have been used depending on the regional availability. There has been a recent surge in this ancient art particularly as a therapy among parents and professionals in the Western world. Evidence exists supporting the benefits of touch and massage therapy. We reviewed the literature to look at the various techniques of providing massage, its benefits, possible mechanism of action and adverse effects. The review suggests that massage has several positive effects in terms of weight gain, better sleep-wake pattern, enhanced neuromotor development, better emotional bonding, reduced rates of nosocomial infection and thereby, reduced mortality in the hospitalized patients. Many studies have described the technique and frequency of this procedure. Massage was found to be more useful when some kind of lubricant oil was used. Harmful effects like physical injury and increased risk of infection were encountered when performed inappropriately. The review also discusses the different hypotheses put forward regarding the mechanism of action. As of now there are very few studies describing the long term impact of neonatal massage.
Article
Synopsis Infant skin is often presented as the cosmetic ideal for adults. However, compared to adult skin it seems to be more prone to develop certain pathological conditions, such as atopic dermatitis and irritant contact dermatitis. Therefore, understanding the physiology of healthy infant skin as a point of reference is of interest both from the cosmetic as well as from the clinical point of view. Clinical research on healthy infants is, however, limited because of ethical considerations of using invasive methods and therefore until recently data has been scarce. Technical innovations and the availability of non‐invasive in vivo techniques, such as evaporimetry, electrical impedance measurement, in vivo video and confocal microscopy, and in vivo fibre‐optic based spectroscopy, opened up the field of in vivo infant skin physiology research. Studies incorporating such methods have demonstrated that compared to adult, infant skin continues to develop during the first years of life. Specifically, infant skin appears to have thinner epidermis and stratum corneum (SC) as well as smaller corneocytes at least until the second year of life. The water‐handling properties are not fully developed before the end of the first year and infant SC contains more water and less amounts of natural moisturizing factors. Such findings re‐evaluate the old notions that skin is fully matured at birth. Armed with this knowledge, we are in a position not only to better understand infant dermatological conditions but also to design better skin care products respecting the distinct qualities of infant skin.
Article
As skin barrier modulating compounds, fatty acids are frequently used in formulations for transdermal or topical delivery. In this study the effects of oleic acid on keratinocytes in vitro was compared with its in vice skin irritancy in humans. Dose- and time-dependent effects of oleic acid were examined in submerged human keratinocyte cultures,in reconstructed human epidermis (RE-DED), and in excised human skin, using alterations in morphology and changes in interleukin-1α mRNA levels as endpoints. In vitro results were compared with responses of living human skin after topical application of oleic acid, using non-invasive bioengineering methods. Direct interaction of oleic acid and submerged keratinocyte cultures resulted in cell toxicity at very low concentrations of the fatty acid. By contrast, when oleic acid was applied topically on RE-DED or on excised skin, no alterations in morphology were observed. Modulation of stratum corneum thickness indicated a key role of the stratum corneum barrier in the control of oleic acid-induced toxicity. In agreement with these findings, no epidermal tissue damage was seen in vivo, whereas oleic acid induced a mild but clearly visible skin irritation and inflammatory cells were present in the upper dermal blood vessels. Small amounts of oleic acid induced IL-1α mRNA expression in submerged keratinocyte cultures, whereas in RE-DED and in excised skin, IL-1α mRNA levels were increased only when the concentration applied topically was at least. two orders of magnitude higher. It is concluded that minute amounts of oleic acid are sufficient to cause local (i.e. inside the viable epidermis) modulation of cytokine production. These concentrations do not affect morphology but induce skin irritation in vitro. To achieve comparable effects in the skin, much higher topical doses are needed than expected according to the locally required levels, owing to the rate-limiting transport of the fatty acid across the stratum corneum barrier.
Article
This study investigated some pharmacological properties of virgin coconut oil (VCO), the natural pure oil from coconut [Cocos nucifera Linn (Palmae)] milk, which was prepared without using chemical or high-heat treatment. The anti-inflammatory, analgesic, and antipyretic effects of VCO were assessed. In acute inflammatory models, VCO showed moderate anti-inflammatory effects on ethyl phenylpropiolate-induced ear edema in rats, and carrageenin- and arachidonic acid-induced paw edema. VCO exhibited an inhibitory effect on chronic inflammation by reducing the transudative weight, granuloma formation, and serum alkaline phosphatase activity. VCO also showed a moderate analgesic effect on the acetic acid-induced writhing response as well as an antipyretic effect in yeast-induced hyperthermia. The results obtained suggest anti-inflammatory, analgesic, and antipyretic properties of VCO.
Article
Synopsis The skin is the largest organ of the human body and its functions include protection, thermoregulation sensation and secretion. Significant advances in our understanding of how the morphology and physiology of the skin contribute to the skin’s barrier role have been achieved in recent years. The aim of this review is to summarize the principal approaches which have been used to assess variation in skin barrier function with anatomic site, age, gender, and ethnicity. The methods discussed include trans‐epidermal water loss (TEWL) measurement, assessment of corneocyte size, response to vasoactive compounds and attenuated total reflectance Fourier transform infrared (ATR‐FTIR) interrogation of skin. The utility of the various methods is considered and the most important findings in the literature to date are highlighted.
Article
For millennia, sunflower seed oil has been used in folk medicine for both skin care and the treatment of skin disorders. In its natural state, the oil contains high levels of essential fatty acids, particularly linoleic acid, which has skin barrier-enhancing properties. A sunflower oleodistillate (SOD), which is produced through a molecular distillation process without the use of solvents, has been shown to increase the epidermal key lipid synthesis and to reduce inflammation in vitro and in animal models. It has also been shown to activate peroxisome proliferative-activated receptor-alpha (PPAR-alpha) in vitro. As PPAR-alpha agonists have been shown to stimulate keratinocyte differentiation, improve barrier function, and enhance lipid metabolism in the skin, it has been suggested that SOD might also be efficacious in atopic dermatitis (AD). An initial clinical evaluation of the care effect of a 2% SOD emulsion in 20 adult volunteers with atopic skin revealed the moisturizing properties of SOD. Finally, a strong steroid-sparing effect and a positive effect on quality-of-life parameters were clearly demonstrated for the 2% SOD cream in studies in infants and babies with AD.
Article
FWHM, full width at 50% peak height; HEX, hexagonal; LIQ, liquid-crystalline; OR, orthorhombic; SC, stratum corneum; TEWL, transepidermal water loss
Article
Standard recommendations for skin care for patients with atopic dermatitis stress the importance of skin hydration and the application of moisturizers. However, objective data to guide recommendations regarding the optimal practice methods of bathing and emollient application are scarce. This study quantified cutaneous hydration status after various combination bathing and moisturizing regimens. Four bathing/moisturizer regimens were evaluated in 10 subjects, five pediatric subjects with atopic dermatitis and five subjects with healthy skin. The regimens consisted of bathing alone without emollient application, bathing and immediate emollient application, bathing and delayed application, and emollient application alone. Each regimen was evaluated in all subjects, utilizing a crossover design. Skin hydration was assessed with standard capacitance measurements. In atopic dermatitis subjects, emollient alone yielded a significantly (p < 0.05) greater mean hydration over 90 minutes (206.2% baseline hydration) than bathing with immediate emollient (141.6%), bathing and delayed emollient (141%), and bathing alone (91.4%). The combination bathing and emollient application regimens demonstrated hydration values at 90 minutes not significantly greater than baseline. Atopic dermatitis subjects had a decreased mean hydration benefit compared with normal skin subjects. Bathing without moisturizer may compromise skin hydration. Bathing followed by moisturizer application provides modest hydration benefits, though less than that of simply applying moisturizer alone.
Article
Development of the skin barrier continues up to 12 months after birth; therefore, care must be taken when cleansing and bathing infants' skin. Available guidelines for skin care in newborns are, however, limited. In 2007, the 1st European Round Table meeting on 'Best Practice for Infant Cleansing' was held, at which a panel of expert dermatologists and paediatricians from across Europe aimed to provide a consensus on infant bathing and cleansing. Based on discussions at the meeting and a comprehensive literature review, the panel developed a series of recommendations relating to several aspects of infant skin care, including initial and routine bathing, safety while bathing, and post-bathing procedures. The panel also focused on the use of liquid cleansers in bathing, particularly relating to the benefits of liquid cleansers over water alone, and the criteria that should be used when choosing an appropriate liquid cleanser for infants. Alkaline soaps have numerous disadvantages compared with liquid cleansers, with effects on skin pH and lipid content, as well as causing skin drying and irritation. Liquid cleansers used in newborns should have documented evidence of their mildness on skin and eyes, and those containing an emollient may have further benefits. Finally, the panel discussed seasonal differences in skin care, and issues relating to infants at high risk of atopic dermatitis. The panel further discussed the need of clinical studies to investigate the impact of liquid cleansers on skin physiology parameters on newborns' and infants' skin. Bathing is generally superior to washing, provided basic safety procedures are followed, and has psychological benefits for the infant and parents. When bathing infants with a liquid cleanser, a mild one not altering the normal pH of the skin surface or causing irritation to skin or eyes should be chosen.
Article
Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic inflammatory disease associated with changes in stratum corneum (SC) structure and function. The breakdown of epidermal barrier function in AD is associated with changes in corneocyte size and maturation, desquamation, lipid profiles, and some protease activities. The purpose of this study was: (i) to examine physiological changes in lesional (L) skin of acute eczematous AD, compared with nonlesional (NL) AD skin and healthy (H) skin, using sequential tewametry and SC protein analysis to estimate SC thickness; and (ii) to assess which serine proteases might be involved in pathogenesis. Six subjects with H skin, six AD patients with NL skin and six AD patients with mild to moderate eczema (L skin) were enrolled. Skin was assessed using several noninvasive techniques but SC thickness was estimated using tewametry and SC protein content of D-Squame strippings. SC integrity was determined by sequential tape stripping (D-Squame) and infrared densitometry. Kallikreins, plasmin, urokinase and leucocyte elastase protease activities together with a novel SC tryptase-like enzyme activity were quantified. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) levels after D-Squame stripping were elevated in L compared with NL and H skin at all sampling points (P < 0.05). Conversely, the amount of SC removed by sequential tape stripping was decreased in L skin, indicating increased intracorneocyte cohesion (P < 0.05). By correlating 1/TEWL values and SC removed as an estimate of SC thickness, a significantly thinner SC was observed in L compared with NL and H skin (P < 0.05). Elevated extractable serine protease activity was measured in AD skin in the order: SC tryptase-like enzyme (45x), plasmin (30x), urokinase (7.1x), trypsin-like kallikreins (5.8x) and chymotrypsin-like kallikreins (3.9x). Leucocyte elastase activity was not detected in H and NL skin but was observed in AD SC samples (L skin). All enzymes were elevated in the deeper layers of L SC compared with NL and H SC samples. All consistently elevated SC protease activities were significantly correlated with the bioinstrumental data. We report increased serine protease activities in acute eczematous AD, especially in deeper layers of the SC, including SC tryptase-like enzyme, plasmin, urokinase and leucocyte elastase activities. These elevations in protease activities were associated with impaired barrier function, irritation, and reduced skin capacitance. Increased SC cohesion was apparent despite elevated TEWL during tape stripping, which would indicate reduced SC thickness in acute eczematous lesions of AD. Indeed, this was observed using an estimate of SC thickness.
Article
Preterm newborns admitted to the Neonatal Intensive Care Unit are deprived of sensory stimulation. Tactile/kinaesthetic stimulation results in weight gain. Studies involving the cutaneous application of vegetable oils have shown improvement in somatic growth and on skin barrier function. To assess the neurodevelopmental and biological benefits of the simultaneous use of multimodal stimulation (SMS) and the cutaneous application of vegetable oils. Setting Tertiary referral centre serving the Poitou-Charentes region of France. Randomized controlled trial of 49 low-risk preterm infants, born at 31- to 34-week gestation. Each infant was randomly assigned to one of three treatment groups, Sensori-Tonico-Motor (STM) touch for 10 days with either: sweet almond oil, ISIO4 blended oil, or placebo - normal saline, or to a control group who did not receive any intervention. The primary outcome was weight gain. Secondary outcomes were linear growth, neurological maturation, psychomotor development and number of days of admission. Analysis was by intention-to-treat. The group who received STM with ISIO4 oil demonstrated enhanced weight gain (+57%, 95% CI 37-76) compared with controls (P = 0.030). All STM groups showed shorter admission times (mean reduction 15 days, 95% CI 23-50 days hospitalised, P = 0.005), and an increase in body length (P = 0.030). Both groups of oil massaged babies (almond and ISIO4) showed an increased neurological score (P = 0.001) compared to controls. The infants receiving ISIO4 oil had an associated increase in psychomotor scores (P = 0.028), time spent in quiet wakefulness (P = 0.036), improved orientation (P = 0.036), and enhanced development of the oculomotor (P = 0.012) and sensorimotor (P = 0.003) systems. An additional benefit seen was improved moisturization (P = 0.001), and quicker recovery of dermatological conditions. No adverse dermatological events were observed. The combination of STM and cutaneous application of oils to healthy preterm babies resulted in enhanced weight gain and neurological development, and a shorter stay in hospital.
Article
Unsaturated fatty acids from sebum affect calcium dynamics in epidermal keratinocytes, disrupt the barrier function and induce abnormal keratinization. However, the mechanisms of these effects have not been clarified. To investigate the function of unsaturated fatty acids in epidermis. Antagonists of calcium channel receptors were applied to mouse skin together with oleic acid. Measurements were made of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and hyperproliferation was assessed. The effects of the antagonists on calcium influx into cultured normal human keratinocytes and on cytokine production were also evaluated. N-methyl-d-aspartate (NMDA) receptor antagonists such as MK801 and D-AP5 specifically inhibited the increase in TEWL caused by oleic acid, and suppressed keratinocyte hyperproliferation. These compounds also inhibited the increase in the intracellular concentration of calcium ions induced by oleic acid. MK801 suppressed the production of interleukin-1alpha by keratinocytes induced by oleic acid. Unsaturated fatty acids such as oleic acid might function via NMDA receptors.
Article
Atopic dermatitis is an inflammatory skin disease characterized by dryness and itch of the skin. In this study, we measured the phospholipid content and the fatty acid pattern of lesional and lesion-free epidermal keratome biopsies on 15 patients. For comparison, epidermal biopsies were obtained from healthy individuals undergoing plastic surgery. The phospholipid content of atopic epidermis was nearly twice as high as in healthy epidermis. Monounsaturated fatty acids in the phosphoglycerides were significantly increased (p less than 0.001) and n-6 fatty acids were significantly decreased (p less than 0.001) in lesional atopic epidermis compared to lesion-free epidermis. The content of esterified arachidonic acid in phosphatidylcholine from lesional epidermis was only 49% of that found in healthy epidermis (p less than 0.001). The content of free arachidonic acid was 47% higher (p less than 0.05), whereas the content of free long-chain saturated fatty acids was decreased by 29% (p less than 0.01), in lesional compared to lesion-free atopic epidermis. The disease severity, calculated as an arbitrary index, correlated inversely with the n-6 fatty acid content of lesion-free atopic epidermis (r = -0.89, p less than 0.001). Our findings suggest that atopic epidermis is characterized by an increased activity of phospholipase A2 and an incomplete transformation of phospholipids into other lipid classes.
Article
This report reviews individual-related variables, environment-related variables and instrument-related variables, with a focus on the Evaporimeter EP1 (ServoMed). Start-up and use is described, and guidelines for good laboratory practice given.
Article
Summary Moisturizers are used daily by many people to alleviate symptoms of dry skin. All of them contain lipids. It has been suggested that topically applied lipids may interfere with the structure and function of the permeability barrier. The influence of a single application of nine different lipids on normal skin and skin irritated by sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) was studied in 21 healthy subjects. Parameters assessed were visible signs of irritation, and objectively measured cutaneous blood flow and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The substances tested were hydrocortisone, petrolatum, fish oil, borage oil, sunflower seed oil, canola oil, shea butter, and fractions of unsaponifiable lipids from canola oil and shea butter. Water was included as a control. On normal skin, no significant differences in the effects of the test substances were found, whereas significant differences were observed when they were applied to SLS-irritated skin. The visible signs of SLS-induced irritation were significantly less pronounced after treatment with the sterol-enriched fraction from canola oil than after treatment with water. This fraction, and hydrocortisone, reduced cutaneous blood flow. Furthermore, application of hydrocortisone, canola oil, and its sterol-enriched fraction, resulted in significantly lower TEWL than with water. The other lipids had no effect on the degree of irritation. In conclusion, lipids commonly used in moisturizers may reduce skin reactions to irritants. Previous studies have shown that, in barrier perturbed skin, the synthesis of sterols is increased. The observed effects of canola oil and its fraction of unsaponifiable lipids on SLS-induced irritation suggest the possibility that they assisted the skin in supplying the damaged barrier with adequate lipids.